LG Motorsports C6G2 User Manual

LG CORVETTE

G2 COIL OVERS

“THE MOST POWERFUL HEADERS ON THE PLANET”

Brought to you by LG Motorsports

972-429-1963

Parts Inventory:

1. Assembled Front shock and spring

2. Assembled Rear shock and spring

3. Front upper mount with hardware

4. Rear upper mount with hardware

5. spanner wrench

6. rear lower bolts

7. front lower bolts, washers, and nuts

Tools Needed:

1. 19mm socket for wheel lugs

2. 21mm wrench

3. 6mm allen wrench

4. Assorted metric sockets: 10, 13, 15, 18mm

5. Assorted English sockets: 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2

6. Extensions and ratchets

7. Floor jack

8. Red Loctite

Instructions:

Tips:

1. Place the car on level ground and place a piece of tap at the top of each fender,

measure to this and place a mark (doesn’t matter what it is), and record this. This
will give you a point of reference when installing the coil overs as to ride height.

2. If you have access to a scale pad, you should be shooting for 50% cross weight,

LF to RR on the car.

3. Coil overs are shipped, pre-set to a close setup for your car, so there should not be

much to adjust before hitting the track.

Removal:

Raise the car off the ground and support via lift, or jack stands so that the car is
16-24” off of the ground. Start by removing all four wheels and tires and set them to the
side.

On C5 cars you will have to move the washer tank and coolant tank. They do not
have to be disconnected but they will have to be removed from their mounts to access the
top shock mounts. C6 cars will only have to move the coolant tank on the driver side
(see figures 1 and 2).

Figures 1 and 2 (removal of fluid tanks on C5 Corvette):

Once the tanks have been moved from their mounts, you can now access the shock top
mounts on the factory shocks. This can be done with a special Snap-On socket, or you
can loosen the nut with a ratchet, if the shock piston starts to turn you will have to hold
the shock with a wrench, while loosening the nut with another.

At this point it is time to move into the wheel well of the car. Care should be

taken to support any and all suspension components at this time as you will be
dealing with the factory leave spring and it is under pressure.

Start by removing the factory tie rod end links from the steering knuckle, or
upright. These can typically be removed by tapping on the face of the upright, but may
need a pickle fork to separate.

Figures 2a and 2b (Removal of tie rod end):

Once the tie rod ends are removed from both sides we must now separate the
upright from the lower control arm to remove the factory leaf spring. This is done by
first loosening the 22mm nut at the lower control arm first, but do not remove it
completely. You will see two flat spots on the upright, tap these with a hammer to loosen
the taper at the pin and you should see the lower control arm separate from the upright. If
it does not, again a pickle fork may be needed. Remove the end link at the sway bar to
the control arm and pull free. At this point, remove the bolts holding the lower mount to
the control arm so that the arm can be pulled down free from the spring.

Figure 3a and 3b (removal of lower control arm nut)

You will only be removing one lower control arm and upright, one on the front and one
on the rear. You may now also remove the shock from the passenger side of the car.
Make sure that all rubber shock mounts have been removed from the chassis side of the
car as well at this time, these will not be needed.