Lennox OASIS LSO-43, OASIS LSO-43-H owner's Manual

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HOMEOWNER'S CARE AND OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
OASIS SERIES
43" Wood Burning Outdoor Fireplaces P/N 875,019M REV. B 03/2007
MODELS
LSO-43 LSO-43-H
The information contained in this manual applies to all model fireplaces identified on this page. This information will help you obtain safe and dependable service from your Lennox fireplace system. Keep this docu­ment in a safe place for future reference.
Before you start your first fire, read this Care and Operations Manual carefully to be sure you understand your fireplace system completely. Failure to follow these suggestions could result in hazardous operation or fireplace malfunction, creating a serious potential for personal injury and/ or property damage.
RETAIN THESE INSTRUCTIONS
FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
If you have any questions regarding the safe use or operation of your fireplace, contact your local Lennox Dealer or your contractor/builder.
WARNING: EXERCISE CAUTION WHEN OPERATING YOUR OUTDOOR FIREPLACE. DO NOT BURN LARGE FIRES. ATMOSPHERIC CHANGES MAY CAUSE UNEXPECTED GUSTS OF WIND. FLAMES AND ASHES MAY BE BLOWN OUT OF THE FIREPLACE. KEEP THE SCREEN CURTAINS CLOSED AT ALL TIMES.
OTL Report No. 116-F-01-2
NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS NOT TO SCALE.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
General Safety Precautions................ page 2
General Information........................... page 2
Fuels .................................................. page 2
Gas Logs ........................................... page 2
Disposal of Ashes .............................. page 3
Softwood vs Hardwood ..................... page 3
Starting a Fire .................................... page 4
Damper.............................................. page 4
Glass Door Operating Safety
Precautions and Instructions ........... page 4
Air Inlet .............................................. page 4
Refractories ....................................... page 5
Maintenance Guidelines..................... page 5
Twice a Year Check-Up ...................... page 6
Cleanout Panel................................... page 6
Creosote Formation and Removal...... page 6
Troubleshooting ................................ page 6
Warranty............................................ page 7
Product Reference Information ......... page 7
Replacement Parts ............................ page 7
Accessory Components ..................... page 7
Replacement Parts List...................... page 8
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS IMPORTANT! READ AND UNDER­STAND BEFORE YOUR FIRST FIRE.
1. Use SOLID WOOD only for fuel. It is best to
use dry and well seasoned hardwood. Soft woods tend to burn very quickly. Solid scrap construction lumber produces excessive sparks. DO NOT use treated wood, artificial wax based logs, charcoal, coal, trash, drift­wood or woods that have been dipped in tar, pitch, pine tar, creosote, etc. Wood products made with synthetic binders, such as ply­wood, produce abnormally high temperatures and sputtering, smoking fires.
2. NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in this fireplace. Keep any flammable liquids a safe distance from the fireplace.
3. NEVER leave children unattended when there is a fire burning in the fireplace.
4. Always ensure that the air inlet to the fireplace is free from debris and any other obstructions that can block the entrance of air.
5. With the fire burning, close the protective mesh screens to keep sparks and embers IN­SIDE the firebox.
6. Keep any combustible furniture or decora­tive objects at least 60" (1524 mm) from the fireplace opening.
7. Never leave your fireplace unattended while it is burning.
8. Be careful adding wood fuel to the fire or handling fireplace tools such as shovels, tongs or pokers.
9. Never modify or alter your fireplace system in any way. To do so may create a potential fire hazard and void the Limited Warranty.
10. The bottom refractory can be cracked by excessive abuse such as tossing heavy logs onto the grate or gouging with fireplace tools. Exercise caution when adding wood to your fireplace.
11. DO NOT use a fireplace insert or any other product not specified by the manufacturer for use with this fireplace.
12. Neither the manufacturer nor the seller warrants "smoke free" operation nor are they responsible for inadequate system draft caused by mechanical systems, general construction conditions, inadequate chimney heights, ad­verse wind conditions and/or unusual environmental factors or conditions beyond our control.
WARNING: TO AVOID THE RISK OF DAMAGING FIREPLACE MATERIALS AND INCREASING THE RISK OF FIRE, DO NOT USE THE FIREPLACE TO COOK OR WARM FOOD.
GENERAL INFORMATION
1. The all-steel, multi-wall firebox is the heat
center of the system. It is constructed for safe clearance to combustibles.
2. The hearth floor and sidewalls of the firebox are lined with a brick pattern rein­forced refractory for the look of authenticity and to provide safety.
3. The metal chimney sections extending from the firebox top to beyond your roof are two walled and air-cooled. The inner passage, or flue, provides the exit for smoke and gases.
4. This fireplace does not have a damper. There is a flue strainer provided at the flue entrance to keep debris from entering the chimney. Before you start a fire, the strainer must be checked to ensure that it is free of obstructions.
5. Closed screens prevent fire, sparks and embers from popping out of the firebox while a fire is burning. Pull screens back when adding wood to the firebox.
6. Why use a fuel grate? Besides positioning the firebed properly, it protects the refractory floor, back and sides of the fireplace. Further, it ensures a proper flow of combustion air into and around the firebed. The grate must be used at all times when burning. Your warranty may be voided without the use of this grate.
7. This fireplace is not a heater. It is designed to ensure homeowner comfort by providing supplemental heat to its immediate area.
FUELS Never Use Coal in Your Fireplace
Your fireplace system is not designed to be used with coal derivative products. The com­bustion process of certain types of coal can deposit corrosive materials in the fireplace and chimney system which can lead to premature product failure. Never use coal as a fuel in this fireplace system.
Gas Logs
If your fireplace system was installed with a gas line, you may wish to install one of two types of gas log sets.
This fireplace has been tested and approved for use with a decorative gas appliance incor­porating an automatic shut-off device and complying with the Standard for Decorative Gas Appliances for installation in vented fire­places, ANSI Z21.60 (1991). Decorative gas appliances may be installed in these fireplaces. Installation must be in accordance with the national Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1 for com­pliance with the revised U.L. 127 Standard.
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WARNING: THIS FIREPLACE HAS NOT BEEN TESTED WITH AN UNVENTED GAS LOG SET. TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE OR INJURY, DO NOT INSTALL AN UNVENTED GAS LOG SET INTO THIS FIREPLACE.
Prior to installing any gas log set, refer to the fireplace installation instructions for verifica­tion of mantle heights and placement of combustible materials around the firebox open­ing. Vented gas log sets do not have restrictions placed upon their BTU rating.
Wood Fuel Pointers
SOFTWOOD VS HARDWOOD
Softwoods contain about 15 percent highly flammable resin which generates creosote soot in the chimney flue. Burning softwood exclu­sively may not be as desirable nor as safe as burning denser hardwoods. Many experienced fire-builders use small amounts of softwood kindling and newspaper in conjunction with starting a fire with split hardwood logs. Here are some guidelines to remember:
1. Softwoods produce fast warming and shorter fires. Hardwoods burn less vigorously, have shorter flames and produce steady, glowing coals.
8. Be a knowledgeable wood buyer. There is a difference in cord sizes. A standard cord stack of logs is 4 ft. high by 8 ft. long by 4 ft. deep or the equivalent of this cubic footage, (
Figure 1
Standard Cord of
8'
Wood
4'
4'
).
Wood is a wonderful renewable fuel source. Normally it burns clean, leaving only a mini­mum of waste ash, provides comforting heat and can provide a variety of aromas and visual images.
You will want to know which woods are best for use. Sometimes you may want a quick, short fire to offset a morning chill. Soft woods are preferable in this case. Other times you would want more slow burning and a uniform heat output. Hardwoods are preferable for this use.
The amount of heat available from the logs will be about equal on a weight basis. However, logs are generally not weighed so the amount of heat will depend on:
1. The type of wood used.
2. How dry it is.
3. How many logs you put in.
4. The size of the logs.
The last statement means that one big log weighing 10 pounds has as much heating po­tential as 10 pounds of twigs. However, air cannot get at the solid log to feed the fire so the solid log will burn slowly. While you would get the same amount of heat out of either fire, the smaller the pieces of wood and the more air space around them, the faster the fire will burn.
DISPOSAL OF ASHES
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are to be disposed of by burial in soil or other wise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
2. As a general rule, denser woods contain more potential heat per pound. Most softwoods offer moderate heat value per pound.
3. Different woods vary widely in flame heights, flame intensities, smoke characteristics and in sparking. Most hardwoods do not spark.
4. Most freshly cut “green” wood will not burn well and will smoke. Green wood can be from 10 to 40 percent less efficient than air-dried seasoned wood.
5. Moisture and resin found inside unseasoned wood cells will build up pressure under heat and explode as sparks.
6. Most wood needs to be seasoned 9 to 12 months to reduce the moisture content and produce good steady fires. When moisture content is reduced from 60 to 20%, the gain in heat potential is nearly 7%.
7. Proper storage of wood, especially during seasoning, is essential. We recommend that you:
a. Never store wood on the ground. This will cause rotting and insect infiltration. Raise wood on flat rock or scrap wood.
b. Stack wood loosely to allow air circulation.
c. Store wood where it will not be excessively
exposed to weather, such as under a tarp or under a roof.
d. Do not stack wood directly against the walls of your home.
Figure 1
A face cord is the same height and length as a standard cord but the depth is only the length of the logs (12, 18 or 24 inches). A face cord can contain as little as 25% of the wood found in a standard cord.
If you buy by the ton, remember that wood becomes lighter as it dries. When buying green or wet wood, ask for some extra poundage to allow for the extra water you will be getting.
9. When comparing woods of the same mois­ture content and same species, we find most woods have approximately the same heating potential per pound.
However, most wood is sold by volume, not by weight. To determine the best heating source, look at the density of various wood types. (Density is the weight for a given size.) The higher the density, the more potential heat output. A standard cord has a volume of 128 cubic feet. This figure also includes the air space between and around the wood. The ac­tual volume in a standard cord is between 60 and 100 cubic feet; depending on how tightly the wood is packed.
Assuming that you are comparing two standard cords of different species but the same volume and moisture content, the denser species will provide more BTU’s. The table of wood species/ densities reveals more helpful guidelines.
NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS NOT TO SCALE.
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HARDWOODS DENSITY
Alser, Red .41 Ash .49-.60 Aspen .38-.39 Basswood, American .37 Beech, American .64 Birch .55-.65 Butternut .38 Cherry, Black .50 Chestnut, American .43 Cottonwood .34-.40 Elm .60.63 Hackberry .53 Hickory, Pecan .60.66 Hickory, True .69-.75 Honey locust .66 (est.) Locust, Black .69 Magnolia .48-.50 Maple .48-.63 Oak, Red .59-.67 Oak, White .64-.88 Poplar .42 Sassafras .42 Sweet gum .52 Sycamore, American .49 Tanoak .64 (est.) Tupelo .50 Walnut, Black .55 Willow, Black .39
SOFTWOODS DENSITY
Bald cypress .46 Cedar .31-.47 Douglas Fir .46-.50 Fir .32-.43 Hemlock .40-.45 Larch, Western .52 Pine .39-.59 Redwood .35-.40 Spruce .35-.41 Tamarack .53
DAMPER
Note: This appliance does not have a damper.
A flue strainer has been provided to prevent any debris from entering into the chimney.
FLUE STRAINER
The flue strainer is a wire cloth attached to the flue entrance to prevent debris from entering the chimney.
Periodical inspection and cleaning may be required. See
Figure 2
and follow the instruc-
tions below for removal and installation:
1. With a flat screw driver, press on the re­tainer bracket and pull the strainer downwards to release.
2. Clean or discard the strainer if damaged.
3. Reinstall or replace the flue strainer.
Flue Strainer
Retainer Bracket
Figure 2
REINSTALLING OR REPLACING THE FLUE STRAINER (P/N LB-101309)
1. Hang the retaining brackets on the outer-
most screws inside the firebox at the back, near the flue inlet.
2. Place one side of the flue strainer, wedged between the front screws and the top, inside the firebox.
3. With the aid of a flat screw driver, push upwards on the opposite end of the flue strainer against the retainer brackets, (one at a time) until it snaps to its locking position.
AIR INLET
This appliance requires the installation of an air inlet for proper operation.
The fireplace draws air into the chimney and firebox chambers through the air inlet to cool the firebox during operation.
It is important to inspect the air inlet and free it from any obstruction before operating the fireplace (
see Figure 3
).
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THE FIRE­PLACE UNLESS A COMPLETE AIR INLET SYSTEM HAS BEEN INSTALLED.
Fireplace Air Inlet Must Be Free Of Any Obstructions
Figure 3
REFRACTORIES
All fireboxes contain a furnace refractory floor, sides and back. These refractories are rein­forced with steel, but can be broken by improper use. Dropping logs on the bottom refractory and building fires directly against the refracto­ries can cause premature burnout of these components. It may easily be repaired or re­placed at costs far below repair and maintenance for masonry fireplaces.
Proper care and “burn-in” of the firebox will prolong the period of enjoyment without exten­sive maintenance. For the first few uses, build small fires – not roaring infernos. The materials used in the refractories contain and absorb mois­ture. It is important to “cure” the refractories by building only modest fires. Under normal usage, it is expected that hairline cracks will appear in the refractory surface. These hairline cracks do not affect the safe operation of the fireplace.
STARTING A FIRE
Note: Caution must be observed when operat-
ing this fireplace under windy conditions. Do Not burn large fires, as flames may be drawn out of the firebox. If this occurs, close the glass doors immediately. If not equipped with doors, extinguish the fire or keep it to a minimum if safe. The screens must be closed at all times while in operation, except when feeding the fire.
1. To start a fire in the fireplace properly, first check that the flue strainer is clear and the air inlet is unobstructed.
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2. The grate in the firebox should be centered on or over the bottom hearth so your fire can breath properly. Crumble and twist plenty of newspapers UNDER the grate and criss-cross some small dry kindling sticks on top of the paper or on the bottom of the grate.
3. Build a pyramid of three split logs (split will start much faster). Arrange the uneven wood to provide plenty of air space between.
4. When lighting your fire, a little smoke may escape – more likely if the chimney is cold. To correct this, hold a lighted newspaper up inside the firebox near the chimney opening. This will turn around any downdraft and clear the flue of cold air. As your log fire burns below, the updraft will improve as the chimney heats up.
5. Now, light the paper at both sides of the firebox.
6. Close the screens to prevent the escape of sparks and embers.
GLASS DOOR OPERATING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS
These fireplaces may be equipped with glass doors. Refer to the end of this document for a listing of the glass doors approved for use with these fireplaces.
WARNING: IF YOUR FIREPLACE IS EQUIPPED WITH GLASS DOORS, IT SHOULD BE OPERATED WITH THE DOORS FULLY OPEN OR FULLY CLOSED. IF THE DOORS ARE LEFT PARTIALLY OPEN, GAS AND FLAMES MAY BE DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS OF BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE. SEE
FIGURE 4
FOR
PROPER OPERATING CONDITIONS.
Glass Doors
Fully Open or
Fully Closed
(Bi-Fold Doors)
Figure 4
CAUTION: IF A SMOKING CONDITION EX­ISTS, GLASS DOORS SHOULD BE CLOSED DURING FIREPLACE OPERATION.
Care and Cleaning of Your Glass Doors
Never clean the glass when the doors are hot. Do not use ammonia or ammonia based glass or household cleaner to clean the glass or the door frame. An ammonia based cleaner will damage the finish of the glass door.
Clean the glass doors by wiping with a damp towel followed by a clean dry towel to remove streaks.
Remove stubborn stains from the glass with a mild soap solution and a towel dampened with clean water. Dry with a clean dry towel.
• The fire must always be confined within the boundaries of the fuel grate.
• The fireplace screens must always be closed whenever the fireplace is being used.
• Never slam the glass door since it could cause the glass to break.
• Do not build excessively large or hot fires — scorching or discoloring of the plated brass trim may occur.
• Extreme temperature changes can cause glass breakage — do not build a hot fire and close the glass doors if the doors are cold.
• If the tempered glass pane becomes scratched or chipped, it creates a weakness in the glass which can cause the glass to break when heated. Replace the pane of glass by contacting your nearest dealer.
CAUTION: GLASS AND METAL FRAMES GET HOT — ALWAYS USE HANDLES TO OPEN AND CLOSE THE DOORS.
WARNING: BE AWARE THAT SAFETY GLASS IS UNPREDICTABLE WHEN HOT AND MAY BREAK, EXPELLING HOT GLASS INTO THE ROOM. ADVISE ALL FAMILY MEMBERS TO REMAIN WELL AWAY FROM THE FIREPLACE WHEN OPERAT­ING WITH DOORS CLOSED TO AVOID ANY POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
IMPORTANT: Plated polished brass glass doors may have a plastic covering over all brass pieces for protection during shipping and handling. The plastic covering should be removed before installation of the glass doors. Under the plastic covering is a protective lacquer coating which should not be removed. In some instances, if it is removed, irrevers­ible damage to the brass finish could occur. Refer to the following for specific information on plated polished brass.
IMPORTANT: The lacquer coating on the pol­ished brass glass doors and trim pieces can be damaged or removed causing corrosion and/or tarnish. Do not remove the protective lacquer coating from plated polished doors and trim. To help protect the finish; use a non-acidic wax and avoid the over-spray of acidic/alkali based glass cleaners on the brass pieces. Please understand that the heat of the fire will cause the protective lacquer finish to slightly change to a light caramel color. Do not be alarmed as this is a normal occurrence.
MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES
Your fireplace is designed to operate trouble­free with minimum maintenance. However, like any fine appliance, it deserves and requires some housekeeping attention.
Your fireplace will perform better – and cer­tainly look more attractive to family and friends – if it is cleaned before each use. Before the first seasonal use in Autumn and after the last fire in Spring, it is important to inspect the fireplace system carefully. We recommend at least two complete fireplace inspections a year.
Before Each Use
1. Clean the firebox of excessive ashes. Some
owners prefer to leave a small layer to insulate the cold refractory below the grate which helps fire starting.
This fireplace has a factory supplied grate at­tached, it is permissible to remove the grate for cleaning; however, the grate must be re-at­tached to the fireplace before the next burn.
2. Keep the fireplace screens clean so combus­tion air flows freely.
3. Spot check the brick-like refractory for small cracks. Heat from the fire expands it slightly. When it cools, it contracts.
Refractories should be replaced when:
1. The crack opens more than ¹⁄₄" (19 mm).
2. Pitting in the surface is extensive and pits
become deeper than ³⁄₁₆" (4.76 mm).
3. Any piece of refractory larger than 2" (51 mm) in radius and ³⁄₁₆" deep becomes dislodged.
If conditions 1, 2 or 3 occur, the refractory should be replaced.
NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS NOT TO SCALE.
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TWICE A YEAR CHECK-UP
Normally, twice a year, you should inspect your fireplace following this list:
1. Inspect the opening in your chimney top and remove any debris that could clog it. The cap is usually held in place by four (4) screws, which remove easily for checking or cleaning the full length of the flue from above. Remove the chimney top while wearing gloves to guard against any sharp metal edges.
2. Inspect the entire flue from the top down for obstructions such as birds nests, leaves, etc. This may be done by using a flexible handled chimney cleaning brush. If the chimney con­tains offset/return elbows; a soft brush cleaning from the top down to any elbow and then from the firebox up to the offset/return section is the proper method. The beam from a powerful flashlight will help in this inspection, (removal of the flue strainer may be needed).
3. Look up from inside the fireplace to see if any obstructions are in the lower flue area. If present, shut the glass doors (if installed) to seal the firebox and contain any soot that might fall.
If your fireplace does not have glass doors installed, a damp sheet covering the fireplace opening and sealed with masking tape will do. Then clean the flue from the top down (if an offset system, clean per Step 2) using a proper size chimney brush with flexible pole sections. Don’t open the doors or remove the sheet until all soot has settled. Vacuum, don’t sweep.
Note: Removal of the flue strainer may be required to clear any obstructions inside the flue.
4. Check the metal flashing and seals around your chimney. Seal any cracks or loose nail­head openings to prevent roof leaks.
5. Clean the firebox thoroughly by using a soft brush or equivalent.
6. Check outside air inlet and free from any obstructions.
7. Exposed stainless steel face may be cleaned with a solution of baking soda and water:
Mix a tablespoon of baking soda in a cup of water and spray on the exposed stainless steel face. Wipe with a clean cloth.
CLEANOUT PANEL (DOOR SUPPORT FRAME)
The Cleanout Panel provides an outlet for water that may enter the fireplace during rain­ing or melting snow. Therefore it is important to keep it clear from ashes and debris.
Remove the Cleanout Panel by removing the screw at each end and lift ( Check inside and clean if necessary.
Make sure the area is free of any debris and reattach the panel with the screws previously removed.
see Figure 5
).
Note: The hearth area can be vacuum cleaned. Larger debris must be removed manually. It is recommended to clean the hearth area while the cleanout panel is removed to make sure that no ashes will fill the cleanout panel area upon reattachment.
Screw
Screw
Cleanout Panel
Figure 5
Stainless Steel Outdoor Weather Cover (P/N H0321)
An optional Stainless Steel Outdoor Weather Cover can be purchased to provide additional protection against leaves and other objects that wind can carry which can accumulate inside your fireplace or damage your fireplace Glass Doors. Complete instructions for use are provided with the cover.
WARNING: CONTINUED OVERFIRING CAN PERMANENTLY DAMAGE YOUR FIREPLACE SYSTEM. SOME EXAMPLES OF OVERFIRING ARE:
• BURNING QUANTITIES OF SCRAP LUMBER, PINE BRANCHES, PAPER OR CARDBOARD BOXES WHICH EXCEED THE VOLUME OF THE NORMAL LOG FIRE.
• USE OF ARTIFICIAL WAX BASE LOGS, TRASH OR OTHER CHEMICALS OR CHEMICALLY TREATED COMBUSTIBLES.
CREOSOTE FORMATION AND REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creo­sote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney should be inspected at least twice yearly during the heating season to de­termine if a creosote build-up has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If creosote build-up is found, do not use chemi­cal chimney cleaners that are poured on a hot fire. The chemical cleaners can be dangerous and generally only work on the flue section nearest the fire, leaving the rest of the flue unaffected. It is best to take the time to clean the flue as previously described or have the chimney professionally cleaned by a qualified chimney sweep.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Note: "Smoke Free" operation is not warranted
nor are we responsible for inadequate system draft, general construction conditions, inad­equate chimney heights, adverse wind condi­tions and/or unusual environmental factors or conditions beyond our control.
If you do experience a problem, here are sev­eral things to check:
1. Remember – always check to ensure that the flue strainer and air inlet are clear from obstructions before lighting a fire!
2. Is your fire too far forward? Move it toward the back with your poker. Keep the fire well within the confines of your fuel grate.
3. Keep your fire up on the grate and the refrac­tory below free of excessive ashes. The fire needs plenty of air movement around the logs.
4. Is a breeze or wind blowing? This can cause negative pressure and an unwanted downdraft – and smoking.
5. Is your wood fuel too wet or unseasoned? Or does it contain some chemical substance that causes sputtering, smoking and toxic fumes?
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6.
Figure 6
illustrates the correct height of your chimney top. It is unlikely that your instal­lation does not adhere to the installation instructions. However, if not correct, you could experience an unusual downdraft. Usu­ally, the best solution is to increase the chimney height. This may also be necessary if nearby trees, adjoining roof lines or a hill is causing a downdraft condition.
7. Remember, your fireplace has been de­signed as a decorative, supplemental heating device only, it is not intended for heating purposes.
ACCESSORY COMPONENTS
3'
(914mm)
Min.
Less than
10' (3m) To
Roof Peak
2' (610mm)
Min.
10' (3m)
2' (610mm)
Min.
FTF10-CT1
3'
(914mm)
Min.
Figure 6
WARRANTY
This fireplace is covered by a limited warranty detailed separately from this document.
Retain this manual. File it with your other documents for future reference.
PRODUCT REFERENCE INFORMATION
We recommend that you record the following important information about your fireplace. Please contact your Lennox dealer for any questions or concerns. For the number of your nearest Lennox dealer, please call 1-800-9-LENNOX
Bi-Fold Doors H0329 43LBFOD-BS
Bi-Fold Doors
Your fireplace can be fitted with beautiful bi­fold doors. These doors are easily fitted to the fireplace opening. Model LBFOD-BS doors have the striking look of brushed steel.
To ensure warranty and to prevent a potential fire hazard, do not use any other doors on these appliances.
Your Fireplace's Model Number _______________________________________
Your Fireplace's Serial Number ________________________________________
The Date On Which Your Fireplace Was Installed __________________________
Your Dealer's Name_________________________________________________
REPLACEMENT PARTS
A complete parts list is found at the end of this manual. Use only parts supplied from the manufacturer.
Normally, all parts should be ordered through your Lennox dealer. Parts will be shipped at prevailing prices at time of order.
When ordering repair parts, always give the following information:
1. The model number of the appliance.
2. The serial number of the appliance.
3. The part number.
4. The description of the part.
5. The quantity required.
6. The installation date of the appliance.
NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS NOT TO SCALE.
Outdoor Weather Cover H0321 43L-ODC
Stainless Steel Outdoor Weather Cover
Your fireplace can be fitted with an attractive Stainless Steel Outdoor Weather Cover. This cover is easily fitted to the fireplace opening.
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REPLACEMENT PARTS
LSO-43 LSO-43H
No. DESCRIPTION Part No. Qty. Part No. Qty.
Fireplace Assembly H0303 1 H0304 1
1. Firescreen 35M0901 2 35M0901 2
2. Rod, Screen LB-101301 2 LB-101301 2
3. Refractory, Side, Right (Traditional) 16M31 1 – Refractory, Side, Right (Herringbone) 16M39 1
4. Refractory, Side, Left (Traditional) 16M31 1 – Refractory, Side, Left (Herringbone) 16M40 1
5. Refractory, Rear (Traditional) 16M34 1 – Refractory, Rear (Herringbone) 16M42 1
6. Refractory Base 16M36 1 16M44 1
7. Grate LB-97144 1 LB-97144 1
8. Frame, Front Lower LB-97044 1 LB-97044 1
9. Frame, Side L.H. LB-97045A 1 LB-9704A 1
10. Frame, Side R.H. LB-97045B 1 LB97045B 1
11. Frame, Door Support (Cleanout Panel) LB-97037 1 LB-97037 1
12. Frame, Top LB-97046 1 LB-97046 1
13. Flue Strainer LB-101309 1 LB-101309 1
14. Retainer Bracket (Flue Strainer) LB-101340 2 LB-101340 2
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Lennox reserves the right to make changes at any time, without notice, in design, materials, specifications, prices and also to discontinue colors, styles and products. Consult your local distributor for fireplace code information.
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Printed in U.S.A. © 2002 by LENNOX
P/N 875,019M REV. B 03/2007
1110 West Taft Avenue Orange, CA 92865
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