Lennox Merit MPE36, Merit MPE33 Service Manual

Page 1
Service Manual
Lennox Electric Fireplaces
Merit Series
MPE36 MPE33
Page 2
Contents
Removal Log Grate page 3
Changing ember bul bs page 4
Removal of glass panel page 5
Component identification page 7
Confirm power supply page 8
Transformer testing page 9
Flame panel removal page 11
Flame cylinder bulb replacement page 12
Lights: Flame and Ember page 13
Electrical junction box access page 15
Opti onal wall thermostat page 16
Opti onal wall switch page 17
Control board page 18
Remote control sensor page 23
Remote control feature page 24
Heater thermostat operation page 24
Flame cylinder motor replacement page 25
Control panel sw itches page 29
Remote control does not function page 31
Heater sensor page 32
Heater access page 33
Testing the heater/blower page 34
Junction box w iring page 42
Parts List page 45
Read this first
This manual is provided as a tool to assist professional service personnel working on Lennox Electric Fireplaces.
Do not attempt to service this electrical appliance if:
You have not been trained
how to safely service electrical appliances.
You are not familiar w ith the
use of electrical diagnostic tools.
Disconnect the power supply prior to attempting any service.
Electrical Shock Hazard
Read this manual and the installation and operation instructions for this appliance before attempting any service.
If you have any questions
regarding this appliance contact Lennox Technical Service at: (800) 655-2008
Page 3
Remove Grate and Log
Set
The grate must be removed before removing the log set.
Remove the two screws that secure the grate in place and remove the grate.
Place your thumbs on the front edge of the ember base approximately 1/3 of the way in from the ends of the log set.
Push towards the back causing the ember base to flex. As you push gently lift the front edge of the ember base. The log set and ember base may be lifted up and out of place.
Page 4
Changing ember bulbs
Remove logs and grate (see page 3)
On MPE36R replacement bulbs will be found in a pocket in the log set
Lift at the front of the plastic ember bed to “pop” it up and release it.
Remove ember bed.
Remove spring retainer from bulb.
Remove defective bulb.
Using plastic gloves or a small plastic bag to prevent oils from your hands from coating the bulbs, insert the replacement bulb in the socket and replace the retaining spring.
Replace ember bed
Replace logs and grate.
Page 5
Removal of rear glass
panel
Remove logs and grate
Remove ember bed
Remove screws from right and left retaining brackets
Remove screws from top retaining bracket
Caution: wear protective gloves when removing or handling the glass panel.
Gloves will help prevent cuts and will also prevent the oils from your hands from staining the surface of the glass panel
Page 6
Removal of rear glass
panel (continued)
Grasp glass panel at top and tip forward.
With panel loose, grasp on top and bottom edges to remove from fireplace.
Page 7
Components
Control board
Transformer
Remote control receiver
Flame cover panel
Motor and Flame cylinder
Fuse location
Page 8
Power supply
When the electric fireplace is initially connected to a power supply:
By plugging in the power
cord to a receptacle
By turning on the circuit
breaker (hard wired connection at the junction box)
The control board will emit two loud “beeps” to confirm “power up”.
If you do not hear these ‘beeps”:
Confirm that the circuit
breaker is “on”
Confirm power to the
receptacle.
Is an external switch
controlling the power to the fireplace? If so it must be on.
If power is available to the fireplace and the two “beeps” are not sounded at”power up”, look for:
Transformer failure (page 9) – Control board failure
Control Board- beeps twice to confirm “power up”
Page 9
Testing Transformer
Caution: electrical shock hazard!
This tests confirms that line voltage 120 VAC is available to power the transformer.
Place multimeter leads on control board terminals as shown.
Line voltage should be between 105 VAC – 127 VAC.
Page 10
To test the transformer:
•Remove the low voltage connector (two red wires) from the control board as shown. On the side of the connector two silver terminals will be visible.
•Set your Multimeter to test AC voltage. Touch the probes to the two silver connectors on the transformer wires. Voltage should between 16 – 18 VAC
•When the transformer is reconnected to the board there should be two “beeps” should be heard confirming “power up” of the control board.
Probes connected to transform wire terminals
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16-18 VAC
Page 11
Removal of flame panel
Use wire cutters to clip the plastic wire tie binding the remote control receiver wire.
Use a screwdriver to remove the screws on the right and left edges of the flame cover panel.
The panel may be placed upon the floor in front of the fireplace during service
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Page 12
Changing bulbs in flame
cylinder
Grasp the top of the flame cylinder and squeeze gently disengaging the flame cylinder cover.
Lift the cover off to expose the two flame bulbs.
Caution: The edges of the flame cylinder may be sharp! Wear protective gloves to prevent injury
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Page 13
Lights: Flame and Ember
With the flame cylinder cover removed, the two bulbs are visible.
When the flame switch is activated the bulbs should light and the flame wheel should turn.
Use the remote control to brighten and to dim the flame bulbs and the ember bed bulbs.
When testing voltage to the ember and flame lights:
If the lights are
activated by the control panel switch voltage will be approximately 114VAC
If the lights are
activated by the remote control the dimmer function will vary the voltage from approximately 4 VAC (low) to 114 VAC at the high setting.
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Page 14
If ember and flame lights
fail to operate
•Check the in-line fuse located to the right of the control board.
•Perform a continuity test on the fuse. If the multimeter displays “1” the fuse has blown and must be replaced.
•If the bulbs and fuse test “OK” , check the continuity of the control panel switch (power On/Off) and (lights On/Off)
•If switches test OK then test control board.
•L- Light to N-Light =114VAC
•L-Flame to N-Flame = 114VAC
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Page 15
Access to electrical
junction box
Turn off power to the fireplace by either unplugging the power cord or setting the circuit breaker in the home’s electrical panel to the “off” position.
Remove screws in junction box cover.
Wire connections to a) factory supplied
power cord or b) Romex power supply should be as follows:
120VAC linefireplace
black black white blue N1
blue N2 white green green/yellow
          
For 240 VAC wiring see page 42
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Page 16
Wires for optional
controls
The junction box contains two wires that may be used for an
optional wall switch to control the flame and/or an optional thermostat to control the heater.
A length of black and white wire is provided for the connection of an optional wall mounted thermostat kit.
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Page 17
Electrical junction box
A length of red wire may be bundled in the bottom of the junction box.
This allows operation of the fireplace from an optional wall mounted switch.
See the drawing for proper wiring
Note: to operate the fireplace from the wall switch the unit mounted power switch must be in the ‘off’ position.
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Page 18
Control board
Replacement part # H1625 – Contains: – Control Board – Remote Receiver
Procedure for replacing control board:
Disconnect Power Supply by
unplugging power cord or turning off circuit breaker.
Orient replacement board to match
defective board.
Hold replacement board directly
below defective board.
Remove one wire at a time from
the defective board and connect it to the replacement board.
Repeat until all wires have been
transferred.
Use needle nose pliers to squeeze
the plastic corner fasteners to release the defective board. Remove defective board
Place replacement board over
corner fasteners and push to lock in place.
Confirm all connections with the
wiring diagram.
Restore power and test fireplace
functions.
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Page 19
Control board wiring
120 VAC to transformer
Line voltage to Heater Elements
Red

Control Panel Switch Main Power on/off
(also to optional wall switch)
Red/Red
Temperature sensor-heater
Black/Black
24 VAC from transformer to board
Flame/Ember on/off switch
Red/Black
Page 20
Control Board Wiring (Hot)
L-FAN: Black wire (hot) to fan motor
L-M: Brown wire (hot) to flame motor
P-L: Black wire (hot) from junction box- to board- to fusible link
L-Light: Yellow wire (hot) to ember lights
L-R1 & L-R2: Red wires (hot) to heater element
Black wire from board to
fusible link
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L-Flame: Purple wire(hot) to flame wheel lights
Page 21
Control board wiring
(neutral)
L-N: Not used
N-Flame: White (neutral) from flame wheel lights
N-M: White wire (neutral) from flame wheel motor

N-Fan: White wire(neutral) from fan motor
N-Power: White wire(neutral) from junction box to control board
N-Light: white wire (neutral) from ember lights
Page 22
Sensors/ Switches
Heater switch black/yellow
Main power switch red/red
Transformer/
Temperature sensor black/black
120 VAC to transformer black/red
Wire for optional wall thermostat black/white (stored in junction box)
Remote control sensor white

Not used
Flame/Embers on-off switch red/black
24 VAC from transformer red/red
Page 23
Remote control sensor
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Page 24
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Page 25
Replacement of flame
cylinder motor
Use wire cutter to remove plastic wire ties as shown
Expose two crimp on wire nuts (white to black) and (brown to black) leading to the motor
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Page 26
Motor removal
Cut crimped on wire nuts to allow removal of the motor,
Use a small Phillips head screw driver to loosen the linkage clamp.
Use needle-nose pliers to loosen the nuts securing the motor to its mounting bracket
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Page 27
Motor removal
Remove the defective motor.
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Page 28
Replacement motor
Slide the replacement motor into the rubber linkage and tighten.
Reinstall motor mounting screws and tighten the two hex nuts
With wire strippers strip the ends of the replacement motor wires and also of the brown and white wires as shown.
Using wire nuts secure the connections. Use wire ties to re-bundle the wires. Tuck wires into plastic retainers
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Page 29
Control switches
Top photo: Main power switch (note 4 red wires are connected to this switch to allow for the use of an optional wall switch)
Middle photo: Heater switch (Black and yellow wires)
Lower photo: Flame switch (Red and black wires)
Perform a continuity test to confirm that switches are functioning properly. Disconnect one wire from each switch before conducting the test.
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Page 30
Continuity test: control
panel switches
Earlier production models of the MPE-36R have switches that were soldered to their wires rather than the push on connector that are used on later models.
To test these soldered switches:
See page 21 of the manual for the
location of the switch connector at the control board.
Remove the connector from the
control board.
Set your multimeter to Ohms and
conduct a continuity test of the wires and sw itch.
When the sw itch is “off”/open the
multimeter w ill display “1” .
When the sw itch is “on”/closed the
multimeter should display a measure of resistance (0.1 approx.)
If the multimeter displays “1” with the switch in the “on” setting, the switch is defective and must be replaced.
If you suspect a defective
switch, test the switch 6 – 10 times to confirm proper operation and reliability.
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Page 31
Remote control does not
function
Power switches must be correctly set to allow remote control operation.
When the switches are correctly set, a “beep” will be heard whenever a button on the remote control is depressed.
If no sound is heard test in this order:
Check switch settings – Check batteries in remote control – Test operation with another remote control transmitter – Test operation with a replacement remote receiver connected to the board – Replace control board
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Page 32
Heater sensor
The heater sensor measures the air temperature and turns the heater and blower on and off based upon the setting of the remote control.
If the heater does not turn on, the remote may have been set to a temperature lower than the current room temperature.
Set the remote to “high” if the room temperature is lower than 86 degrees, the heater should turn on.
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Page 33
Heater Access
Remove screws to release heater panel
Grasp handle and lower heater to the service position.
The heater will be suspended by two wire cables

Page 34
Testing the heater
Testing the fuse plate assembly
Unplug the fireplace or turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
Remove one black wire lead to the fuse plate assembly as shown
Perform a continuity test with the multimeter set to Ohms. (picture to the right indicates a good fuse plate assembly)
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Page 35
Testing the heater
(continued)
Continuity test Fuse Plate Assembly
Remove one black lead as shown.
Set multimeter to “Ohms” to measure resistance.
Touch probes to spade connectors on fuse plate assembly as shown.
If multimeter displays “1” the fuse plate assembly has failed and must be replaced.
Failure of the fuse plate
assembly may indicate incorrect wiring in the junction box or of the heater element, or the possibility of a short circuit .
Check and confirm all wiring before reactivating power supply.
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Page 36
To replace “fuse plate
screw
assembly”
screw
Disconnect wires as shown above.
Remove screws from end of fuse plate assembly
Replace with part # H5043
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Page 37
Orange
Blue
Red
Heater element wiring
Heating element wiring:
Orange : Top center terminal
Blue wires N1 & N2: Middle terminals
Red wires (from control board): lower terminals
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Page 38
Blower wiring 120VAC
From Left: Black White Orange Blue Blue
Note: 120 VAC operation:
Blue wires N1 & N2 run directly from electrical junction box to the heater element.
Orange wire (dummy wire in 120 VAC installation) also runs directly from the electrical junction box to the heater element. Orange wire must be capped in the junction box.
Black (hot) wire runs from junction box to the control board and then to the fusible link for the heater
White (neutral wire) runs from the junction box to the control board,
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Page 39
Blower wiring 240 volt
From left: Black White Orange Blue Blue
Note: 240 VAC operation:
Blue wires N1 & N2 run directly from electrical junction box to the heater element. (Blue wires are not used in 240VAC
and must not be connected to a power source in the junction box. Blue wires should be capped with wire nuts to prevent accidental contact with power supply)
Orange (hot) wire also runs directly from the electrical junction box to the heater element. Orange wire is connected to Hot (Red or Black power supply in the junction box)
Black (hot) wire runs from junction box to the control board and then to the fuse plate assembly for the heater Black wire is connect to Hot (Red or Black power supply in the junction box)
White (neutral wire) runs from the junction box to the control board.
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Page 40
Orange
Blue
Red
Heater element wiring
To test the heater element:
Turn off all power at the circuit breaker or unplug the power cord (120VAC)
Remove orange wire, both blue wires, and both red wires from the heater element.
With the multimeter set to Ohms: touch the probes to the terminals from which the red wires were removed.
If the multimeter displays “1” the heating element has failed and must be replaced.
Normal Ohm readings for the heater coil (red to red) is between 65 Ohms and 90 Ohms.
Be careful to replace all wires as shown in this picture.
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Page 41
Electrical grounding
For safe operation the fireplace must be grounded.
In electrical junction box the green ground wire from the power supply must be firmly connected to the green and yellow wire shown here. Confirm that the ground wire is properly and securely fastened to the ground screw located to the left of the flame wheel motor.
Inspect the power cord to make certain that the ground plug is in place and has not been removed.
Using a multimeter confirm that the electrical outlet has proper polarity and is properly grounded.
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Page 42
Junction box wiring
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Page 43
Wiring diagram 120 Volt
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Page 44
Wiring diagram 240 Volt
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Page 45
MPE-33R
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Page 46
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Page 47
MPE-36R
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Page 48
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