THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED INSTALLER.
READ ENTIRE MANUAL THOROUGHLY BEFORE INSTALLATION.
P/N 775003M, Rev. P, 11/03
IMPORTANT WARNINGS
CAUTION: PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL AND USE YOUR NEW ROOM
HEATER. FOR YOUR SAFETY, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY, WITHOUT DEVIATION. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN
PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR EVEN DEATH. IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED,
A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. CONTACT YOUR LOCAL BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS
AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
1. If utilizing an older chimney, it must be inspected for adequate serviceability. Refer to the
heading Chimney Inspection on page 10 of this
manual.
2. The minimum clearances must be maintained
for all combustible surfaces and materials including; furniture, carpet, drapes, clothing,
wood, papers, etc. Do not store firewood within
this clearance space. Failure to maintain clearances to all combustibles may result in a house
fire.
3. This appliance requires non-combustible floor
protection as outlined in this manual (see Floor Protection on page 5 for additional information).
4. Minimum ceiling height must be 7 feet (213 cm)
(measured from base of appliance to ceiling).
5. DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY
FLUE CONNECTED TO ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
6. Do not connect this appliance to air ducts or
any air distribution system.
7. PREVENT CREOSOTE FIRE: Inspect and clean
chimney frequently. Under certain conditions of
use, creosote buildup may occur rapidly. Inspect chimney connector and chimney twice
monthly and clean if necessary. Using green or
inadequately seasoned wood can greatly increase creosote buildup. Use dry wood to minimize creosote buildup.
8. USE SOLID WOOD FUEL ONLY: This appliance
is approved for burning dry seasoned natural
wood only. CAUTION: BURN UNTREATED
WOOD ONLY. OTHER MATERIALS SUCH AS
WOOD PRESERVATIVES, METAL FOILS, COAL,
PLASTIC, GARBAGE, SULFUR OR OIL MAY
DAMAGE THE CATALYST. DO NOT BURN
GARBAGE OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS
GASOLINE, NAPHTHA OR ENGINE OIL.
9. Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or "freshen up" a fire in this heater.
Keep all such liquids well away from the heater
while it is in use.
10. DO NOT OVERFIRE: If heater or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring. Overfiring this
appliance could cause a house fire. Overfiring is
a condition where the appliance is operated at
temperatures above its design capabilities (see
Overfiring, on page 23). Overfiring can be
caused by improper installation, improper operation, lack of maintenance or improper fuel
usage. Damage caused from overfiring is NOT
covered under the manufacturers limited warranty. (see Care and Operation, pages 14 to 17).
11. NEVER LEAVE AN UNATTENDED STOVE
BURNING ON HIGH. Operation of the stove with
the primary air control at its highest burn rate
setting for extended periods can cause dangerous overfiring conditions. The primary air control should only be positioned at the highest
setting during start-up procedures and for short
durations. When leaving the stove unattended
ensure that the primary air control is set to the
low or medium low range.
12. Use a metal container with a tight fitting lid to
dispose of ashes.
13. IN THE EVENT OF A COMPONENT FAILURE,
USE ONLY COMPONENTS PROVIDED BY THE
MANUFACTURER AS REPLACEMENT PARTS.
14. Burning any kind of fuel uses oxygen from the
dwelling. Be sure that you allow an adequate
source of fresh air into the room where the
stove is operating (see Ventilation, page 11 and
Outside Air, page 8).
15. CAUTION: HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. An appliance hot enough to warm your home can severely burn anyone touching it. Keep children,
clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause
skin burns. Do not let children touch the appliance. Train them to stay a safe distance from
the unit.
16. Build fires directly upon the brick hearth inside
the stove. Do not use grates, irons or any other
method to elevate the fire.
17. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
18. See the listing label located on the back of
stove (or see Safety/Listing Label on page 29).
PAGE 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Important Warnings ................................................ 2
Testing/Listing, EPA, Using this Manual.................. 3
Planning Your Installation ..................................... 4-7
Manufactured (Mobile) Home Requirements ...........8
Ownership Records ...............................................31
TESTING/LISTING
Model 1003C has been tested to UL Standard 1482
and ULC-S627 by OMNI-Test Laboratories Inc.; Beaverton, Oregon; Report number #030-S-02-2.
EPA CERTIFICATION
This stove has been tested to rigorous emissions standard, and has been certified by the Environmental Protection Agency.
USING THIS MANUAL
Please read and carefully follow all of the instructions
found in this manual. Please pay special attention to the
safety instructions provided in this manual. The Homeowner’s Care and Operation Instructions included here
will assure you have many years of dependable and
enjoyable service from your appliance.
CONGRATULATIONS ON THE PURCHASE OF
YOUR NEW WOODSTOVE MANUFACTURED BY
LENNOX HEARTH PRODUCTS.
When you purchased your new woodstove, you
joined the ranks of thousands of concerned individuals whose answer to their home heating needs
reflects their concern for aesthetics, efficiency and
our environment. We extend our continued support
to help you achieve the maximum benefit and enjoyment available from your new wood stove.
It is our goal at Lennox Hearth Products to provide
you, our valued customer, with an appliance that
will ensure you years of trouble free warmth and
pleasure.
Thank you for selecting a Lennox Hearth Products
stove as the answer to your home heating needs.
Sincerely,
All of us at Lennox Hearth Products
PACKAGING LIST
This appliance is packaged with an accessory package,
which contains the following:
One - Installation and operation instructions
manual.
One - Warranty.
One - Catalytic combustor temperature probe and
sleeve.
One - Damper Hook
PAGE 3
PLANNING YOUR INSTALLATION
QUESTIONS TO ASK LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIAL
A correct installation is critical and imperative for reducing fire hazards and perilous conditions that can arise
when wood burning appliances are improperly installed.
The installer must follow all of the manufacturers’ instructions.
The installation of a wood burning appliance must conform to local codes and applicable state and federal
requirements. Familiarity with these requirements before installation is essential. Important considerations to
discuss with local building officials include:
1. Applicable codes (i.e. Uniform Mechanical Code,
State or Regional Codes.)?
Electrical codes: Optional Blower Assemblies have a
flexible electrical cord that must be electrically
grounded per local codes or per electrical codes:
In USA, NEC, ANSI/NFPA 70-2002.
In Canada, CSA C22.1
WARNING: ELECTRICAL GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS: THIS APPLIANCE IS EQUIPPED WITH A
THREE-PRONG (GROUNDING) PLUG FOR YOUR
PROTECTION AGAINST SHOCK HAZARD AND
SHOULD BE PLUGGED DIRECTLY INTO A PROPERLY GROUNDED THREE-PRONG RECEPTACLE.
DO NOT CUT OR REMOVE THE GROUNDING
PRONG FROM THIS PLUG. DO NOT ROUTE
POWER CORD UNDER OR IN FRONT OF APPLIANCE.
2. Local amendments?
3. Is a permit required - cost?
(You may wish to contact your insurance company
to ask if they require this).
4. Is outside combustion air required?
5. Rooms where the installation is not allowed?
SMOKE DETECTORS
Since there are always several potential sources of fire
in any home, we recommend installing smoke detectors. If possible, install the smoke detector in a hallway
adjacent to the room (to reduce the possibility of occasional false activation from the heat produced by the
stove). If your local code requires a smoke detector be
installed within the same room, you must follow the requirements of your local code. Check with your local
building department for requirements in your area.
SELECTING A LOCATION
The design of your home and where you place your
stove will determine its value as a source of heat. A
wood stove depends primarily on air circulation (convection) to disperse its heat, and therefore, a central
location is often best. There are other practical considerations, which must be considered before a final selection of locations is made:
The installation of this stove will require some research.
Once your options are determined, consult with your
local building department who will be able to give you
the necessary installation requirements for your area (Is
a building permit required, rooms where installation may
not be allowed etc.).
WARNING: CHECK ALL LOCAL BUILDING AND
SAFETY CODES BEFORE INSTALLATION. THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND APPROPRIATE
CODE REQUIREMENTS MUST BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY AND WITHOUT COMPROMISE. ALTERATIONS TO THE STOVE ARE NOT ALLOWED. DO
NOT CONNECT THE STOVE TO A CHIMNEY SYSTEM SERVING ANOTHER STOVE, APPLIANCE, OR
ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCT. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS WILL VOID THE
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY.
If you plan to vent your stove into an existing masonry
chimney, have the chimney inspected by a local fire
marshal or qualified installer. Remember that a stove's
performance is heavily influenced by the chimney and
its location on the roof. An oversized flue may not provide effective draw, and a flue liner may be required
(see Draft Requirements, page 11). Consult your dealer
or qualified installer before final selection is made.
This stove requires pre-installation work to be completed before installation can take place. This may include modification for flue and chimney.
NOTE – This appliance IS
into a Manufactured (Mobile) Home in Canada and
the USA.
approved for installation
PAGE 4
PLANNING YOUR INSTALLATION
–
FLOOR PROTECTION
This appliance requires non-combustible floor protection for ember protection. If the floor protection is to be
stone, tile, brick, etc., it must be mortared or grouted to
form a continuous non-combustible surface. If a chimney connector extends horizontally over the floor, protection must cover the floor under the connector and at
least 2" (51 mm) to either side.
The floor protection must extend completely beneath
the stove and to the front, sides, and rear as indicated:
USA REQUIREMENTS
16” (406 mm) min. to the front of the fuel door glass
8” (203 mm) min. beyond the sides of the fuel door
opening
0” (0 mm) min. to the back of the stove body
CANADA REQUIREMENTS
18” (457 mm) min. to the front of the fuel door glass
8” (203 mm) min. beyond the sides of the stove body
8” (203 mm) min. to the back of the stove body
STANDARD PARALLEL HEARTH PAD SHOWN
0” - USA
8” – Can.
STOVE TOP
8” (203 mm)
Canada
8” (203 mm)
USA
DOOR
18” (457 mm)
ada
”
Can-
8” (203 mm)
8” (203 mm)
USA
Canada
PAGE 5
PLANNING YOUR INSTALLATION
COMBUSTIBLE WALL CLEARANCES
WARNING: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU OBSERVE THE MINIMUM CLEARANCES.
There are listed clearances for your stove which were determined in a Laboratory test using various "classes" of stove pipe
or chimney. Minimums are first established for the stove itself
and increased based on how much heat is transferred by each
class of pipe.
NOTE: Manufactured (mobile) home installations require the
use of a Type L-Vent Chimney connector only. Use of a single
wall flue pipe connection is not permitted.
Manufactured (Mobile) Home Standard and Residential
Reduced - Using 6” (152 mm) diameter Type L-Vent connector
pipe (to the top of the stove) with listed factory-built 103HT
chimney suitable for use with solid fuels or a code approved
masonry chimney. Approved brands of factory built chimney are
Dura-Vent, Security, Jake Evans and Metal Bestos.
MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOME INSTALLATIONS MUST
BE EQUIPPED WITH A RAIN CAP AND SPARK ARRESTOR.
Clearances (inches / millimeters)
A. 14 / 356 C. 17 / 432 E. 16 / 406
B. 25 / 635 D. 9 / 229 F. 8 / 203
Residential Standard (not approved for manufactured
[mobile] homes) Using 6” (152 mm) diameter, single wall
connector pipe with listed factory-built to the top of the
stove.
Clearances (inches / millimeters)
A. 22 / 559 C. 25 / 635 E. 16 / 406
B. 25.5 / 648 D. 16 / 406 F. 15 / 381
Residential Note: Approved for 6” (152 mm) diameter,
single wall, minimum 24 MSG black or blued steel connector pipe with listed factory-built 103HT chimney
suitable for use with solid fuels or a code approved
masonry chimney.
Manufactured (Mobile) Home Reduced and Residential Reduced Using 6” (152 mm) diameter Type L-Vent
connector pipe (to the top of the stove) with listed factory-built 103HT chimney suitable for use with solid fuels
or a code approved masonry chimney. Approved brands
of factory built chimney are Dura-Vent, Security, Jake
Evans and Metal Bestos. MANUFACTURED (MOBILE)
HOME INSTALLATIONS MUST BE EQUIPPED WITH A
RAIN CAP AND SPARK ARRESTOR. Alcove size: 84”
(213 cm) minimum height, 56” (143 cm) minimum width,
and 24” (610 mm) maximum depth.
Clearances (inches / millimeters)
A. 11 / 280 C. 14.5 / 369 E. 16 / 406
B. 25.5 / 648 D. 5.5 / 140 F. 5.5 / 140
Vent Height (all installations) - The pipe should extend
12 feet above the stove top, as a minimum, to achieve a
stable draft.
Corner Installation
F
B
E
C
Parallel Installation
A
45°
D
PAGE 6
PLANNING YOUR INSTALLATION
ALCOVE CLEARANCES
NOTE:" = inches, mm = millimeter, cm = centimeter
Alcoves must have minimum dimensions of 84" (214 cm)
height, 56" (142 cm) width and 24" (610 mm) maximum
depth.
Require pipe: Type L Vent pipe to the top of the stove.
Manufactured (mobile) home installations must be
equipped with a rain cap and spark arrestor and must
use a pipe shield extending a minimum of 24" (610 mm)
above the stove (resting on stove) is mandatory for the
installation of this appliance into a combustible alcove.
Alcove Dimension Requirements
24” (610 mm)
Depth
Maximum
84”
(214 cm)
Min.
Alcove Top View / Stove Clearances
ALCOVE CLEARANCES:
Back wall to pipe O.D. 11" / 280 mm
Side wall to pipe O.D. 25.5" / 648 mm
Back wall to stove 5.5" / 140 mm
Side wall to stove 16" / 407 mm
56” (143 cm)
Minimum
Alcove - Top View
5.5” (140 mm) 11” (280 mm)
16”
(407 mm)
* NOTE: Alcove dimensions cannot
25.5”
(648 mm)
be reduced by the
use of non-combustible materials such as brick, stone,
etc. Alcove dimensions listed are minimum dimensions
and are not measurements for building an Alcove. You
will need to consider these clearances, as well as
other dimensional requirements before you build the
alcove and install this appliance.
REDUCED MASONRY STRUCTURE CLEARANCE
(ALCOVE)
Your stove can be installed in a masonry structure with
reduced clearances if the structure was built to National
Building Code for fireplaces and chimneys (UBC 37).
The firebox of the masonry structure must be of adequate size to allow a minimum of 6” (152.4 mm) clearance to the sides and top of the stove and 2” (50.8 mm)
clearance to the rear. All stove models must be installed
on their original listed legs or base unless otherwise
specified by OMNI Testing Laboratory.
The minimum venting requirement is a listed chimney
liner that extends from the flue collar of the stove to the
first tile liner of the chimney where it is sealed. All joints
and connections must be made airtight to prevent leaking and
downdrafts.
PROTECTED WALL CLEARANCE
Some local codes will allow reduced clearances when
the stove is installed adjacent to a protected wall system.
Your local building official must approve the variance.
Normally, the protected wall system is defined as a noncombustible material with a minimum of 1” (25.4 mm) air
space behind. Check your local building codes or with a
qualified installer (Ref. NFPA 211).
PAGE 7
INSTALLATION
AIR INTAKE COVER
The pedestal is equipped with an air intake cover (located at the top front of the pedestal). The air intake
cover should be adjusted to the open position if outside
combustion air is NOT provided. If outside combustion
air is provided, adjust to the closed position (see illustration to the right).
Air Intake
Cover
Open
Pedestal
Front
Closed
OUTSIDE AIR
In all manufactured (mobile) homes and in many site
built residences (subject to local code), a stove may be
required to use outside air for combustion. A 5 ¼” (133
mm) square outside air floor duct is available through
your dealer.
Stove
Outside
Air Floor
Duct
This stove can take in outside air directly through the
base. This type installation requires a hole through the
floor protector and the use of outside air floor duct (catalog # 14M67) to penetrate into the air space below the
home. When outside air is hooked up, the Air Intake
Cover must be adjusted to the closed position (see Air Intake Cover section on this page).
NOTE: Because the base sits 1” (25.4 mm) off the floor,
the outside air floor duct can be positioned along the
front to rear center line under the pedestal, but as close
to the opening in the base as location permits. The air
duct opening must be protected from any possible obstruction including loose floor insulation.
MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOME REQUIREMENTS
This stove is certified as a Room Heater, Solid Fuel Type
and may be used in Manufactured Housing providing the
following requirements are followed:
• An outside air inlet must be provided for combustion
and be unrestricted while unit is in use.
• WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN SLEEPING
ROOM.
• Regulations require that the appliance must be secured to the floor and grounded to the chassis. See
Securing the Stove to the Floor (and) Grounding
Stove.
• Required venting is 6” (152 mm) diameter Type LVent connector pipe with listed factory-built 103HT
chimney suitable for use with solid fuels or a code
approved masonry chimney. Approved brands of factory built chimney are listed in this manual. A rain
cap and spark arrestor is required (see Clearances,
pages 6 & 7).
• CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF
THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL, AND CEIL-
Floor Protector
ING/ROOF MUST BE MAINTAINED.
• The chimney must provide for a section joint so that
any parts extending above 13’ 6” (411 cm) from
ground level can be removed for transportation of the
mobile dwelling.
PAGE 8
INSTALLATION
SECURING THE STOVE TO THE FLOOR
Manufactured (Mobile) Homes Only
Once the outside air floor duct is in position, replace the
floor protector. Make sure that the floor protector's hole is
aligned with the outside air opening. Next position and
align the stove on the hearth pad. Manufactured (mobile)
home installations require that the stove be secured to
the floor. This ensures that the stove will not shift when
the manufactured (mobile) home is moved. To do this,
mark where the holes are to be drilled using a marking
instrument long enough and small enough to fit through
the (4) four holes in the stove base. Mark holes, then
remove the stove. Drill the (4) four holes, with a ¼” (7
mm) drill bit. Drill down through the floor protector and
the manufactured (mobile) home floor. Use ¼” (7 mm)
lag bolts and secure to the manufactured (mobile) home
floor.
NOTE: If the composition of the manufactured (mobile)
home floor is of light particleboard construction, you will
be required to secure the stove with regular hex head
bolts and nuts. This will ensure that the bolts will not rip
out of the floor when the manufactured (mobile) home is
being moved.
GROUNDING STOVE
Manufactured (Mobile) Homes Only
Regulations require that all stoves installed in manufactured (mobile) homes must be grounded. To do this simply attach a piece of No. 8 copper wire, at least 18” (457
mm) in length from the stove to the chassis of the manufactured (mobile) home.
INSTALLING CATALYTIC TEMPERATURE PROBE
Locate the temperature probe with sleeve in the literature
packet. Insert sleeve, then temperature probe into the ¼”
(7 mm) diameter hole on the stove top.
REMOVE ASH DRAWER CLIP
The ash drawer is secured for shipping with a small retaining screw at the top of drawer. Remove and discard
this screw.
TYPES OF CHIMNEYS
The chimney is a vital part of your stove installation. A
properly built masonry chimney or a properly installed
factory built chimney will assure a consistent draft under
a variety of weather conditions (a smoking stove is usually caused by a chimney problem). The stove flue size is
6” (152 mm) diameter, which is approximately 28 square
inches (712 square millimeters) minimum. The maximum
flue size should be no more than (3)-three times the
cross sectional area of the size of the stove flue collar. In
this case, that would be no larger than a 10“ (254 mm)
diameter stack, or approximately 85 square inches (216
square centimeters) maximum.
All chimneys must be installed as specified by local
building codes and according to the chimney manufacturer instructions (in the case of a factory built chimney).
See the chimney manufacturer instructions for exact
specifications. Factory built chimneys must comply with
UL 103HT or ULC S629.
Factory
Built
Chimney
Tile-lined
Masonry
Chimney
ACCEPTABLE CONNECTOR PIPE FOR INSTALLATIONS
For Standard Residential Clearances:
Six 6 inch (152
mm) minimum, single wall, 25 gage minimum thickness,
stove pipe is acceptable. Three (3) pre-drilled holes are
provided in the flue collar for fastening the pipe securely
to the stove. Use sheet metal screws to do this. Additional sections of single wall pipe should be fastened together with at least three (3) sheet metal screws each
section. When connecting to the factory built ceiling support package, use the manufacturer's transition piece,
usually called a dripless connector, to join single wall
pipe to their factory built chimney section.
Minimum Flue Size
: The required minimum diameter
and area required for the flue size is (respectively) 6
inches / 152 mm diameter, which is approximately 28
square inches / 711 square mm. The maximum flue size
should be no more than (3) three times the cross sectional area of the size of the 6 inches / 152 mm diameter
flue collar. In this case, that would be no larger than a 10
inch (254 mm) diameter (area = approx. 85 sq. inches
[216 sq. cm]).
Connection To A Factory Built Chimney
: This space
heater is to be connected to a factory-built chimney conforming to CAN / ULC – S629, Standard for 650°C Factory-Built Chimneys.
For Reduced Residential Clearances
: Type L and
listed double wall connector pipe is acceptable. Install
any factory built brand of pipe according to the manufacturer's instructions.
PAGE 9
INSTALLATION
CHIMNEY INSPECTION
Existing chimneys must be inspected before installing
your stove. Consult your local building department for
chimney code requirements. A masonry chimney must
have a code approved liner. This liner must not have broken or missing pieces. Some non-code masonry chimneys may be brought up to code by being relined. (Consult your dealer or qualified chimney sweep). Factory
built chimneys should also be inspected, first for creosote deposits (which should be removed), and then for
integrity of the stainless steel liner. Look for obvious
bulges in the lining, which may indicate the need to replace that section (use a bright flashlight).
Also, inspect the attic to see that the chimney has proper
clearance to combustible framing members. For interior
masonry chimneys and most factory-built chimneys, this
must be a 2“ (51 mm) air space clearance, which must
not be filled with insulation or any other material. An exterior masonry chimney must have a 1“ (25.4 mm) air
space clearance.
Vapor Barrier At Chimney Penetration
Install all venting components per the Vent Manufacturers installation instructions. Ensure that there is an effective vapor barrier at the location where the chimney
penetrates to the exterior of the structure. This can be
accomplished by applying a non-hardening waterproof
sealant to the following components:
• Around the chimney at the point where the storm
collar will meet the chimney just above the Flashing.
• Along the vertical seam of the chimney pipe, where it
is exposed to the weather.
• On each nail head on the flashing.
• Around the chimney at the point where the storm
collar will meet the chimney just above the flashing.
Notes:
• On a flat or tarred and graveled roof, nail and seal
the flat roof flashing to the roof on all sides with roofing compound.
• Do not put screws through the flashing into the chimney pipe.
CHIMNEY HEIGHT REQUIREMENTS
The chimney must extend 3 feet (914 mm) above the level
of roof penetration and a minimum of 2 feet (610 mm)
higher than any roof surface within 10 feet (305 cm) (see
below). Check with your local building officials for any additional requirements for your area.
Due to prevailing winds, local terrain, adjacent tall trees, a
hill, or ravine near the home, or adjacent structures, additional chimney height or a special chimney cap may be required to ensure optimum performance.
The 2’ by 10’ Rule for Vent Termination
The top of the flue must be 2’ (610 mm) higher than any
part of the roof within 10’ (305 cm) horizontal and a minimum of 3’ (915 mm) higher than the highest point of roof
penetration.
Requires A Listed
Termination Cap
2’ (610mm)
10’ (305 cm)
3’ (915mm)
For Manufactured (Mobile) Homes Only
: Portions of
the chimney and termination that exceed an elevation of
13½ feet above ground level may be designed to be removed for transporting the manufactured (mobile) home.
PAGE 10
INSTALLATION
DRAFT REQUIREMENTS
The appliance is merely one component of a larger system. The other equally important component is the venting system which is necessary for achieving the required
flow of combustion air to the fire chamber and for safely
removing unwanted combustion byproducts from the appliance. If the venting system's design does not promote
these ends, the system may not function properly. Poorly
functioning venting systems may create performance
problems (i.e. smoking stove, poor heat output, fire goes
out, window blackens, increased creosote buildup, etc.)
as well as be a safety hazard. Some factors that may
lead to performance problems are as follows:
• Oversized or undersized chimney.
• Excessive offsets in venting.
• Insufficient vertical height of chimney.
• Insufficient chimney termination height in relationship
to roof.
• Insufficient ventilation.
• Lack of maintenance.
• Improper operation.
• Burning improper fuel (unit is approved for use with
natural dry well-seasoned wood only).
• Down drafts in the chimney (may need a special wind
cap).
To ensure that the venting system is functioning properly
a draft test should be performed (see Draft Test Proce-
dure on this page).
American National Standards Institute ANSI/NFPA 21192: A chimney or vent shall be so designed and constructed to develop a flow sufficient to completely remove all flue and vent gases to the outside atmosphere.
The venting system shall satisfy the draft requirements of
the connected appliance in accordance with the manufacturer instructions.
DRAFT TEST PROCEDURE
After this appliance is installed a draft test should be performed to ensure proper draft. A qualified technician
should perform the draft test procedure as follows:
1) Close all windows and doors in the dwelling.
2) Turn on or operate all appliances which remove air
from the home (such as a furnace, heat pump, air
conditioner, clothes dryer, exhaust fans, fireplaces,
and other fuel burning appliances).
3) Drill a hole in the vent pipe per the draft gauge
manufacturers instructions (to create a draft test
port). Note: Hole location should be a minimum of 1
foot above flue outlet collar.
4) Start a fire (See How To Start And Maintain A Fire
on page 16).
5) After the fire is well established (20-25 minutes) and
burning at a low setting, perform the draft test per the
gauge manufacturer instructions. The draft gauge
should read between .05 and .07” W.C. (inches water
column). Excessive draft (above .07 W.C.I.) can result in
too much combustion air to be pulled into the firebox, this
will produce hotter burns and could result in overfiring.
Too little draft (below .05” W.C.) will not allow enough
combustion air delivery to maintain a fire well or cause
performance problems such as smoking (this may result
in improper operation of appliance, i.e. will not maintain
fire well unless ash drawer or fuel door is left open).
6) Install a screw to seal the draft test port in the vent pipe.
If the draft test reading was not within the required range,
correct the installation and repeat this procedure.
VENTILATION REQUIREMENTS / PROVIDE ADEQUATE AIR FOR COMBUSTION
THE FRESH AIR REQUIREMENTS OF THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE MET WITHIN THE SPACE WHERE IT
WILL BE INSTALLED. VENTILATION IS ESSENTIAL
WHEN USING A SOLID FUEL BURNING HEATER.
In well insulated and weather tight homes, it may be difficult to establish a good draft up the chimney (caused by
a shortage of air in the home). The lack of air is caused
by many common household appliances which exhaust
air from the home (such as a furnace, heat pump, air
conditioner, clothes dryer, exhaust fans, fireplaces, and
other fuel burning appliances). Also, the combustion process of this heater uses oxygen from inside the dwelling.
If the available fresh air delivery in the dwelling is insufficient to support the demands of these appliances, problems can result (i.e. excessive negative pressure can
develop in the dwelling which will affect the rate at which
this appliance can draft thus resulting in performance
problems; See Draft Requirements on this page). To correct this problem it may help to open a window (preferably on the windward side of the house) or install a vent to
provide make-up air into the dwelling.
PAGE 11
INSTALLATION
See Pipe Manufacturers Instructions For Installation Requirements Of Venting Components And Vent Clearances.
RESIDENTIAL STANDARD
Using 6” (152 mm) Diameter Single Wall
Connector Pipe. Not Approved For
Manufactured (Mobile) Homes.
Chimney
Termination Cap
Storm
Collar
MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOME STANDARD
Using 6” (152 mm) Diameter Type L-Vent Connector Pipe
Spark Arrestor Cap
3 ft. (915 mm)
Minimum
Storm Collar
Flashing
Roof
Flashing
Ceiling Support
Assembly
Slip Adapter
Chimney
Connector
Minimum 1215 ft. (366458 cm) of
Flue to
Achieve a
Stable Draft
7 ft. (214 cm)
Minimum
Floor
Protection
14.5”
(369 mm)
Support Box
DVL Close
Clearance
Connector
6” x 24”
24-Gage
Single Wall Pipe
Square, Outside
Air Floor Duct
5 ¼” (134 mm)
IMPORTANT NOTES:
• Minimize the use of elbows (30°, 45° or 90°)
- Offsets in the
venting system are very restrictive and will inhibit the draft
(i.e. You will lose approximately 5 feet of effective draft for
every 90 degrees of direction change). This appliance requires 12 to 15 feet of effective draft for optimum performance (see Draft Requirements on page 11).
• First section of pipe must be vertical - Use as much straight
vertical pipe directly above the appliance as possible before using an elbow (a 2’ to 3’ initial vertical rise is suggested).
Min. Chimney Clearance from Masonry to Sheet Steel
B
Supports & Combustibles – 2 in. (50.8mm)
Factory Built
Chimney Length
Air Space – 9 in.
(228.6mm) Min.
Min. Chimney Clearance from Masonry to Sheet Steel
C
Supports & Combustibles – 2 in. (50.8mm)
2 Ventilated Air
Channels, Each
1 in. (25.4 mm)
Construction of
Sheet Steel
D
Sheet Steel
Supports
Chimney
Section
Air Space – 2 in.
(50.8mm) Min.
Min. Chimney Clearance to Brick &
Combustibles – 2 in. (50.8mm)
Chimney Flue
Nonsoluble
Refractory
Cement
Chimney Length
Flush with Inside of Flue
Chimney
Flue
Masonry
Chimney
Sheet Steel Su
Chimney Flue
Masonr
Chimney
Min. Chimney Clearance
from Masonry to Sheet
Steel Supports & Combustibles – 2 in.
Chimney
Connector
Masonr
Chimney
Sheet Steel Su
Sheet
Steel
Supports
Min. Clearance 12 in.
(304.8mm) of Brick
Chimney
Connector
Fire Clay
Liner
Min. Clearance
9 in. (228.6mm)
Soli
Listed FactoryBuilt Chimney
Length
orts
2 Air Channels, Each 1
in. (25.4 mm)
Chimney
Connector
Min. 6 in.
(152.4mm) glass
Fiber Insulation
Chimney
Connector
Use Chimney
Mfrs. Parts to
Attach Connector Securely
-Insulated
orts
Min. Clearance
1 in. (25.4 mm)
Air Space to
Chimney
Length
Chimney
Connector
Chimney
Length
Method A. 12” (304.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Mem-
ber: Using a minimum thickness 3.5” (89 mm) brick and a 5/8”
(15.9 mm) minimum wall thickness clay liner, construct a wall
pass-through. The clay liner must conform to ASTM C315 (Standard Specification for Clay Fire Linings) or its equivalent. Keep a
minimum of 12” (304.8 mm) of brick masonry between the clay
liner and wall combustibles. The clay liner shall run from the brick
masonry outer surface to the inner surface of the chimney flue
liner but not past the inner surface. Firmly grout or cement the
clay liner in place to the chimney flue liner.
Method B. 9” (228.6 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member:
Using a 6” (152.4 mm) inside diameter, listed, factory-built SolidPak chimney section with insulation of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, build
a wall pass-through with a minimum 9” (228.6 mm) air space between the outer wall of the chimney length and wall combustibles.
Use sheet metal supports fastened securely to wall surfaces on all
sides, to maintain the 9” (228.6 mm) air space. When fastening
supports to chimney length, do not penetrate the chimney liner
(the inside wall of the Solid-Pak chimney). The inner end of the
Solid-Pak chimney section shall be flush with the inside of the masonry chimney flue, and sealed with a non-water soluble refractory
cement. Use this cement to also seal to the brick masonry penetration.
Method C. 6” (152.4 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member: Starting with a minimum 24 gage (.024” [.61 mm]) 6” (152.4
mm) metal chimney connector, and a minimum 24 gage ventilated
wall thimble which has two air channels of 1” (25.4 mm) each,
construct a wall pass-through. There shall be a minimum 6”
(152.4) mm separation area containing fiberglass insulation, from
the outer surface of the wall thimble to wall combustibles. Support
the wall thimble, and cover its opening with a 24-gage minimum
sheet metal support. Maintain the 6” (152.4 mm) space. There
should also be a support sized to fit and hold the metal chimney
connector. See that the supports are fastened securely to wall
surfaces on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure the
metal chimney connector do not penetrate chimney flue liner.
Method D. 2” (50.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall Member:
Start with a solid-pak listed factory built chimney section at least
12” (304 mm) long, with insulation of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, and an
inside diameter of 8” (2 inches [51 mm] larger than the 6” [152.4
mm] chimney connector). Use this as a pass-through for a minimum 24-gage single wall steel chimney connector. Keep solid-pak
section concentric with and spaced 1” (25.4 mm) off the chimney
connector by way of sheet metal support plates at both ends of
chimney section. Cover opening with and support chimney section on both sides with 24 gage minimum sheet metal supports.
See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces on all
sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure chimney section do not
penetrate chimney flue liner.
NOTES:
1. Connectors to a masonry chimney, excepting method B, shall extend in one continuous section through
the wall pass-through system and the chimney wall, to but not past the inner flue liner face.
2. A chimney connector shall not pass through an attic
a floor, or ceiling.
3. Where passage through a wall, or partition of combustible construction is desired, the installation shall
conform to CAN/CSA-B365.
or roof space, closet or similar concealed space, o
PAGE 13
CARE AND OPERATI0N
ASH DRAWER
The large ash drawer located on the left side of the pedestal is designed to make cleaning easier by containing
the ashes in a removable drawer.
Ash
Drawer
Secondary Air Tube
Bypass Damper Control
Tunnel Baffle
Positioning
Stops
Damper
Door
Catalytic
Combustor
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THIS STOVE WITHOUT
THE ASH DRAWER PROPERLY INSTALLED AND SECURED (SEALED), AS THIS WILL PRODUCE EXTREME TEMPERATURES, RESULTING IN OVERFIRING. THE ASH DRAWER GASKET PROVIDES AN IMPORTANT SEAL, AND MUST BE MAINTAINED (SEE
MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS ON PAGE 19).
OVERFIRING CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE APPLIANCE OR A HOUSE FIRE. OPERATION WITH THE
ASH DRAWER OPEN OR AJAR, NULLIFIES THE
SAFETY LISTING AND VOIDS THE WARRANTY.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR
How it works: From 5 to 30 percent of the chemical en-
ergy contained in every log escapes up the chimney
when wood is burned in a conventional stove. The catalytic combustor is designed to make use of this energy,
converting it into useful heat as it lessens chimney creosote build-up and air pollution. The catalytic combustor
consists of a durable temperature resistant ceramic composition, which is extruded into a cellular, or honeycomb,
configuration. After extrusion, this ceramic monolith is
fired and then covered with a noble-metal catalyst. When
wood smoke contacts this catalyst, chemical changes
occur that causes the smoke to ignite at temperatures
around 600° F. Normally, smoke will ignite and burn only
at temperatures around 1000° F.
CATALYTIC BYPASS DAMPER CONTROL
The operating handle of your Bypass Damper Control is
located on the front of the Stove Flue Collar. By moving
the Bypass Damper Control the operator can route the
exhaust either through the Catalytic Combustor (pushed
in) or directly up the flue (pulled out). When starting a fire
or refueling, the bypass damper control handle should be
pulled out. Once the fire is established it should be
pushed in.
Catalyic Combustor
Retainer Clip
PRIMARY AIR CONTROL
The primary combustion air delivery is controlled by the
Primary Air Control Assembly. The control handle is located on the lower right side (front) of the stove - see
illustration below. The heat output can be controlled by
sliding the handle to a higher or lower heat output setting. The fuel, the amount of heat and burn times desired, the type of installation are all variables that will
affect the control setting. The same control settings in a
variety of installations will produce different results. You
will need to try different settings so you can learn how
much heat to expect and how long the fire will burn.
Primary Air Control Handle
Slide the control to the left for a lower burn
rate, to the right for a higher burn rate.
LOW HIGH
You will generally want to set the primary air control on
low or medium. The stove is safe burning on any setting
as long as combustibles are kept at the specified safe
distances.
PAGE 14
CARE AND OPERATION
FUEL DOOR
The gold or black door option is purchased separately,
but is required. Install the door per instructions provided
in kit (see page 28 for ordering information).
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THIS STOVE WITHOUT
THE DOOR PROPERLY INSTALLED AND SECURED
AS THIS WILL PRODUCE EXTREME TEMPERATURES
(OVERFIRING). THE DOOR AND GLASS GASKETS
PROVIDE IMPORTANT SEALS, AND MUST BE MAINTAINED (SEE MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS ON
PAGE 19). OVERFIRING CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO
THE APPLIANCE OR A HOUSE FIRE. OPERATION
WITH THE DOOR OFF OR OPEN NULLIFIES THE
SAFETY LISTING AND VOIDS THE WARRANTY.
Door Operation: The door handle assembly opens and
securely latches the fuel door closed. To open the door,
rotate the coil handle to the 9:00 position until door releases. To close and latch, hold the coil handle in the 9:00
position, close the door, then rotate the handle to the 6:00
position. See illustration below.
Fuel Door
To Open, Rotate Handle 90
Degrees Clockwise
CAUTION: WHEN OPENING THE DOOR, DO NOT EXTEND IT BEYOND ITS NORMAL TRAVEL. OVEREXTENDING THE DOOR TO A FURTHER OPEN POSITION
CAN PUT EXCESSIVE STRESS ON HINGE AREA OF
DOOR AND HINGE PINS AND MAY RESULT IN BREAKAGE.
Gold Doors: Gold doors are plated with 24-karat indus-
trial grade gold and will require curing to harden the gold.
Once it is cured it will never tarnish. Prior to burning this
appliance the doorframe should be cleaned thoroughly
with a good window cleaning solution and a soft cloth.
Do not use any metal polishes or abrasives to clean the
gold surface. Any oils or fingerprints left on the gold
could become permanent blemishes if the stove is
burned prior to their removal. After the first few fires, the
gold will cure. The ¾” (19 mm) door rope gasket is
made of highly durable high temperature resistant material. It must be kept in good condition. Do not leave the
stove burning with the door ajar or open. Leaving the
door ajar or open while the stove is burning will cause
excessive heat build up in the stove (overfiring) and
could ignite surrounding combustibles as well as damage
the stove (such damage is not covered by the manufacturers warranty).
GLASS
The Glass is a super heat resistant ceramic that withstands continuous temperatures up to 1390° F. This temperature is well beyond the temperatures in which you
operate your stove. If the glass ever becomes damaged
in any way, replace it, using only
5 mm ceramic glass
(part # G2000-7).
This appliance is designed to provide a flow of air over
the inside of the glass, which along with high heat helps
keep it clean. When operating the stove on low for extended periods of time, the glass may get dirty. A short,
hot fire (15 - 20 minutes) will help clean off much of the
normal buildup (see Troubleshooting, pages 21-23). A
commercial glass cleaner designed for stoves is recommended for cleaning.
The glass should be cleaned thoroughly with glass
cleaner and a soft cloth BEFORE the stove is burned.
USE CONTROL SETTINGS THAT WORK FOR YOU
The fuel, the amount of heat you want, the type of installation you have and how long you wish the fire to burn
are all variables that will affect the control settings. The
same control settings in a variety of installations will produce different results.
Familiarize yourself with your stove by trying different
settings so you can learn how much heat to expect and
how long the fire will burn. It may take a week or two to
learn, but your patience will be rewarded by the warmth
and pleasant satisfaction that only a wood fire can provide.
PAGE 15
CARE AND OPERATION
BREAK-IN PERIOD
Your stove finish is a high temperature paint that requires time and temperature to completely cure. We recommend that you ventilate the house during the initial
burns. The paint emits non-toxic odors during this process.
KEEP YOUR HOUSE WELL VENTILATED DURING
THE CURING PROCESS TO PREVENT ACTIVATION
OF YOUR HOME SMOKE DETECTOR.
The paint manufacturer recommends three burn cycles
to cure the paint. The first two burns should be low heat,
approximately 250° F., for 20 minutes each, using paper
and light kindling.
After each 20-minute burn, allow the appliance to cool
completely. The third burn should be at least medium
high or about 450° F. for 45 - 60 minutes. The paint will
become soft and emit non-toxic haze during these burns.
Keep the area well ventilated.
As the paint cures it will become slightly lighter in color.
Eventually the entire surface will become an even color.
Once the paint has been softened and cooled two or
three times, it will harden. Do not turn on a blower during
the curing process. Do not place anything on the stove
surface until the paint is completely cured. Do not attempt to repaint the stove until the paint is completely
cured. If the surface later becomes stained or marred, it
may be lightly sanded and touched up with spray paint
from the same paint manufacturer (See Small Area Paint Touch-Up, page 18). Paint is available at your local authorized Lennox Hearth Products dealer. Never attempt
to paint a hot stove.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR
During the start-up of a cold stove, a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for about 20 minutes. The
high firing rate will ensure that the stove, the flue, the
catalyst, and the fuel are all stabilized at proper operating temperatures. Even though it's possible to have temperatures in the stove reach 600° F. within two or three
minutes after the fire is started, do not set the primary air
control lever to the "LOW" position until approximately
twenty minutes have passed. Setting the primary air
control on "LOW" too early could result in either the fire
or the catalytic combustor going out.
At the end of a burn cycle, it's possible that the hot embers remaining might not provide sufficient fuel value for
the catalyst to retain its minimum operating temperature
of 600° F. During the refueling, we recommend that the
stove be refired for about 10 minutes with the bypass
open to ensure a good draw is established and that the
catalyst reaches 600° F. The refiring will ensure sufficient
temperatures and proper amounts of volatiles for the
catalyst to operate properly.
When refueling a hot stove with the catalyst still operating, no refiring step is necessary. Just open the bypass,
set the primary air control to high, open the door approximately ½” (1 cm), and wait for about thirty seconds.
Load the fuel, close the door, close the bypass and set
the primary air control to normal operation. Temperatures within the firebox should be hot enough to maintain
the catalytic operation.
HOW TO START AND MAINTAIN A FIRE
1. Check to be sure the grate is in place and the ash
drawer is closed.
2. Open the bypass damper control by pulling it toward
you. In the "OPEN" position the draft air will bypass
the catalytic combustor and make starting the fire
easier.
3. Set the primary air control lever on "HIGH". The
"HIGH" setting will maximize your primary combustion air.
4. Build a fire directly on the firebrick covering the bottom of the stove.
a. Place five or six loosely crumpled sheets of
newspaper in the stove.
b. Add a small amount of dry kindling randomly on
the top of the newspaper.
c. Place a few more loosely crumpled newspapers
on top of the kindling and light the bottom paper
first, then light the top paper. Once the kindling is
ignited and burning on its own, close the fuel
door. The upper fire should help preheat the
chimney and create an effective draft while the
lower fire ignites the kindling.
5. When the kindling is burning well, add increasingly
larger pieces of wood until the fire is actively burning.
6. When the fire is well established, use the damper
hook and close the bypass by pushing the control
rod in (catalytic temperature probe should read
600°F, takes approximately 20 - 25 minutes to
reach this temperature).
7. When the fire is well-established slide the air control
lever for the desired heat output.
PAGE 16
CARE AND OPERATION FUEL
REFUELING
To refuel the stove, open the bypass damper and move
the primary air control to "HIGH." Let the fire "LIVEN UP"
for about one minute. Open the fuel door about ½” (1 cm)
and hold in this position about 30 seconds or until the
stove is drafting well. Open the door and add wood. After
refueling, reset the primary draft control to the desired position, and close the bypass when the catalytic temperature probe reaches operating temperatures of 600° F indicated on the temperature probe.
BYPASS DAMPER CONTROL
The operating handle of your bypass damper control is
located on the front of the stove flue collar. By moving
the bypass damper control, the operator can route the
fire either through the catalytic combustor (pushed in) or
directly up the flue (pulled out). When starting a fire or
refueling, the bypass damper control must be pulled out.
Once the fire is established, it must be pushed in.
Secondary Air Tube
Bypass Damper Control
Tunnel Baffle
Positioning
Stops
Damper
Door
Catalytic
Combustor
Catalyic Combustor
Retainer Clip
CATALYTIC TEMPERATURE PROBE
The catalytic temperature probe monitors the temperature of your catalytic combustor. Once you have established a fire and the catalytic temperature probe indicates the temperature of your catalytic combustor. When
it reaches a temperature of 600 degrees (approximately
20 - 25 minutes), close the bypass damper control. Depending on the type and size of the fuel load as well as
the length of time the stove has been burning, your catalytic combustor should operate –between 1000 to 1800
degrees.
When the optional blower is operating it will affect the
temperature probe reading. Turn the blower off for an
accurate reading.
BURN RECOMMENDED FUEL
This appliance is approved for use with untreated natural
dry wood only (see Important Warnings, page 2, #8).
Burning materials other than natural wood will shorten
the life of the catalytic combustor. Do not burn particleboard or pressed logs using bonding agents as they can
produce conditions, which will deteriorate metal or damage the catalyst. Green or uncured wood does not work
well as fuel, and can cause increased creosote buildups
and plugging of the catalytic combustor. The value of
green wood as a source of heat is limited. Do not overload or use kindling wood or mill ends for primary fuel as
this may cause overfiring. Overfiring is a condition where
excessive temperatures are reached, beyond the design
capabilities of the stove. The damage that occurs from
overfiring is not covered under the stove warranty.
WARNING: BURNING IMPROPER FUEL (I.E. CHARCOAL) CAN RESULT IN CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING WHICH MAY LEAD TO DEATH!
CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING – EARLY SIGNS
OF CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING RESEMBLE
THE FLU WITH HEADACHES, DIZZINESS, OR NAUSEA. IF YOU HAVE THESE SIGNS, GET FRESH AIR
AT ONCE! HAVE THE HEATER INSPECTED BY A
QUALIFIED SERVICE TECHNICIAN. SOME PEOPLE
ARE MORE AFFECTED BY CARBON MONOXIDE
THAN OTHERS. THESE INCLUDE PREGNANT
WOMEN, PEOPLE WITH HEART OR LUNG DISEASE
OR ANEMIA, THOSE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF
ALCOHOL, AND THOSE AT HIGH ALTITUDES.
WHY SEASONED WOOD?
The key to the success of a good fire that produces heat
from a woodstove is the wood. It needs to be wellseasoned natural wood.
What does “Well-Seasoned” mean? When a tree is cut
down, the wood is green, full of sap and moisture. This
moisture content can exceed 80%, which must be reduced to less than 20%. Wood properly seasoned is then
capable of generating the heat the stove was designed
to provide.
Green wood does not burn easily. Attempting to burn
green wood often results in a lot of smoke and very little
fire. Time is the most important factor in seasoning
wood. Ideally the moisture content should be reduced to
11-20%, although very few of us will be able to check
that figure. There are several steps that should be taken
to ensure that that you come close to these figures.
PAGE 17
FUEL MAINTENANCE
SEASONING GUIDE
Softwoods – 6 months to 18 months
Hardwoods – 12 months to 24 months
Logs that are 5” (127 mm) diameter across or larger
should be split in half, three pieces if over 8” (203 mm),
and four pieces when over a foot (305 mm) across. If
the tree was fell 2 to 4 years ago, it still needs to be cut,
split, and seasoned for 6 to 24 months depending on
the wood.
WOOD STORAGE
Wood to be seasoned should be stacked in an area
open enough to ensure good air circulation on both
sides – leaving adequate space between woodpiles to
walk comfortable. Do not stack wood against a wall or
building. It helps to elevate the woodpiles off the
ground (two 2 x 4’s running lengthwise beneath the
woodpile works well). This allows air to flow under the
bottom logs. Wood that is kept outdoors, either covered
with a tarp, or not covered at all, will not burn well until it
has been in an enclose space for one to two months.
MAINTENANCE
FIREBRICK
The firebrick should be inspected periodically and replaced if damaged (crumbling or excessively cracked).
SMALL AREA PAINT TOUCH-UP
The stove body is painted with a quality hightemperature stove paint. Use only model TSPK-B Stove
Paint, Catalog # 70K99. Do not touch-up your stove
with any other paint.
Using one small piece of 320 grit sand paper and lightly
sand the blemish so that the edges are “feathered” or
smooth to the touch between the painted and bare surfaces. Do not let the sand paper gum up with paint, as
this will cause scratches on the metal surface. If there
are any scratches, use 600 grit sandpaper instead.
Mask off surfaces you do not want painted. Paint lightly
over the bare surface first as this will act as an undercoat. Then paint over a larger area in smooth even
strokes to blend.
See Break-In Period on page 16 for information on
curing the paint.
CLEANING BLOWER INTAKE
If an optional blower kit (catalog #14M22) is installed,
the blower air intake requires cleaning at least once a
year to remove lint, dust, etc. If there are pets in the
dwelling, the intake should be cleaned at least twice a
year.
ASH REMOVAL AND DISPOSAL
CAUTION: MAKE SURE THAT THE FIRE IS OUT
AND THE STOVE IS COLD BEFORE REMOVING
ASHES! NEVER BURN YOUR STOVE WITH THE
ASH DRAWER OPEN OR UNSECURED!
Ash
Drawer
Ashes can hold live embers for several days, and must
be disposed of with care.
Scrape ashes from the firebox through the grate into the
ash drawer. After emptying, clean and replace the ash
drawer and tighten the securing knobs.
NEVER place ashes in a cardboard box or any other
combustible receptacle.
Proper Disposal of Ashes:
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight
fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be
placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well
away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or
other wise locally dispersed, they should be retained in
the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled.
PAGE 18
MAINTENANCE
DOOR / GLASS GASKET AND ASH DRAWER GASKET
A 3/4" (19 mm) spun fiberglass gasket provides the seal
around the fuel door and a 1/8” (3.2 mm) x 1” (25.4 mm)
flat woven gasket glass provides the seal around the
glass. A ½” (13 mm) flat fiberglass gasket provides the
seal around the ash drawer. Should these gaskets become frayed or damaged, they should be replaced with
the same size and type as the original gasket. Contact
your dealer for ordering. Use high temperature silicone
sealer as an adhesive for the fuel door gasket. The
glass and ash drawer gaskets have self-adhesive backing.
WARNING: THE GASKETS MUST BE KEPT IN GOOD
CONDITION. DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE BURNING
WITH THE DOOR OR ASH DRAWER OPEN OR AJAR.
THIS WILL CAUSE EXCESSIVE HEAT BUILD UP IN THE
UNIT AND COULD IGNITE SURROUNDING COMBUSTIBLES AS WELL AS DAMAGE THE STOVE BY OVERFIRING IT. OVERFIRING IS A CONDITION WHERE EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURES ARE REACHED, BEYOND THE
DESIGN CAPABILITIES OF THE STOVE (SUCH DAMAGE
IS NOT COVERED BY THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY).
SERVICING GLASS
CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO ABUSE THE DOOR
ASSEMBLY BY STRIKING OR SLAMMING IT. IF THE
DOOR ASSEMBLY OR GLASS IS BROKEN OR DAMAGED, THEY MUST BE REPLACED BEFORE HEATER
CAN BE SAFELY OPERATED. USE ONLY COMPONENTS PROVIDED BY THE MANUFACTURER AS
REPLACEMENT PARTS.
Cleaning Glass: Ensure stove is cold prior to cleaning glass.
A commercial glass cleaner designed for stoves is recommended. Do not use abrasive cleaners.
Replacing Glass:
1. Remove door from stove by lifting door up and off
hinge pins: Place the door on a flat protected (towel)
clean flat surface with the inside of the door facing up.
Remove the glass clips (by removing screws holding
clips), then carefully remove broken glass one piece at
a time (protective gloves are recommended).
2. Clean area where the glass with gasket will be installed.
3. Install new glass with gasket (use only factory 5 mm
glass with glass channel gasket. Do not substitute).
Carefully reinstall glass clips. Be very careful not to
overtighten screws.
4. Reinstall door.
CREOSOTE FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
What is Creosote - When wood is burned slowly, it pro-
duces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with
expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors
condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slowburning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on
the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. Also, creosote deposits tend to form in
long runs of venting where gases become too cool prior to
exhausting. Note: Single wall pipe cools rapidly, therefore installations using this type of flue are more susceptible to creosote deposits.
To inhibit the build up of creosote, adjust the primary air
control to a medium-high or high setting for a 10-minute
period each day. Do not attempt to burn out heavy creosote accumulations in this manner. This must be removed from the chimney by scraping or brushing to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Burn Approved Fuel Only - This stove is approved for
burning dry seasoned natural wood only. Using green
or inadequately seasoned wood may increase creosote
buildup.
Inspection Frequency - The chimney connector and
chimney should be inspected at least twice monthly
during the heating season to determine if a creosote
buildup has occurred. If creosote has accumulated it
should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Cleaning - Remove the catalytic combustor and open
the bypass damper prior to having your chimney
cleaned (should be done by a qualified chimney
sweep). See Maintenance Section, Catalytic Combus-tor, page 20 for instructions on removing catalytic combustor.
IMPORTANT: Make sure the bypass damper is in
the open position prior to chimney cleaning.
In the event of a chimney fire - Make sure the fuel door
is securely closed. Adjust the primary air control to the
lowest (most closed) setting. Call the fire department immediately. After a chimney fire, the complete chimney
system should be checked by a qualified technician before further use.
Consult your dealer for suggestions on proper chimney
care. Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have a
clearly understood plan for handling a chimney fire.
PAGE 19
MAINTENANCE
CATALYST REPLACEMENT
The normal expected life of a catalyst (catalytic combustor) is 10,000 to 12,000 hours if the appliance is operated correctly and proper fuels are used. If the catalyst has been deactivated, it should be replaced. Symptoms of deactivation include – noticeably darker smoke
exiting chimney and less heat output. If these symptoms remain after normal maintenance or a major
cleaning (see Catalytic Combustor on this page for
cleaning instructions), the catalyst, p/n 14000 will require replacement. Also, if the catalyst is broken and /
or missing large pieces, it should be replaced.
Note: The catalyst does not need to be glowing to be
working. It will glow at times, but it can work very effectively at temperatures well below the 1000° F level (at
which it will begin to glow).
Stove Operation if Catalyst Is Deactivated
to operate the appliance temporarily with a deactivated
catalyst (although it will be out of compliance with EPA
certification requirements). To operate, follow normal
lighting and refueling procedures as outlined in this
manual with one of the following exceptions.
• During start-up, disregard catalytic temperature
probe reading to determine when to close bypass
damper control. Instead allow 20-25 minutes, then
close the bypass damper control.
• During refueling, disregard catalytic temperature
probe reading to determine when to close bypass
damper control. Instead allow 3-5 minutes after refueling, then close the bypass damper control.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR
This appliance has been designed with a catalytic combustor, which will improve its overall performance. Removing the combustor assembly for cleaning and reinstallation is simple and convenient. Cleaning the combustor helps reduce buildup of ash and retarding chemicals. To clean the combustor, a soft brush, vacuum
cleaner, or pipe cleaner may be used.
Cleaning the combustor once a year, preferably when
your flue system is serviced, is sufficient for most users.
Reinstall the combustor according to the following instructions.
The catalytic activity and effectiveness of a two to three
year old combustor can be improved by following this
Major Cleaning Procedure - Soak the combustor in a
hot cleaning solution of a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar
and distilled water for 30 minutes. Then rinse by soaking in hot distilled water. After 15 minutes, remove the
combustor from the rinse water and gently shake out
excess water. It is unlikely that you will notice a visible
difference in the combustor after this cleaning proce-
– It is safe
dure. The combustor unit is fragile in comparison to the
rest of the stove, so handle with care.
1. Place the combustor on the tunnel baffle as shown
in illustration (ceramic honeycomb to the back and
louvered slots to the front). Push it back into the tunnel baffle until it hits the positioning stops. Make sure
it is sitting flat against the bottom and the sides so
that it does not tilt forward and jump the positioning
stops.
2. Position combustor clip over the middle of the secondary air tube as illustrated. Make sure that one of
the holes in the secondary air tube is centered in the
½” (13 mm) hole on the clip. You can feel with your
fingertip.
3. Tighten screw snugly, but do not over-tighten or you
may spread the clip apart.
Side Cut-Away View of Firebox
Positioning
Stops
Tunnel
Baffle
Catalytic
Combustor
Damper
Door
Use 7/16” Socket. Tighten
Snug (Do Not Overtighten)
Retainer
Clip
Secondary
Air Tube
Catalytic
Combustor
Retainer Clip
Secondary
Air Tube
Setscrew
PAGE 20
TROUBLESHOOTING
SMOKES OUT FUEL DOOR WHEN OPEN (see ✸)
1. The primary air control is closed.
2. The chimney is too cool. Set the primary air control
on "HIGH" with the bypass damper control "OPEN"
for a few minutes before opening the fuel door.
3. Excess creosote will not only restrict your draft but it
will create a risk of a creosote fire. Strictly adhere to
maintenance requirements as outlined in this manual. If excess creosote has built up on the inside of
the firebox sides and door, burn a small hot fire at intervals that are more frequent with air control on
HIGH for a few minutes.
4. Deposits may have built up in the chimney and are
restricting the draft, or the spark arrester on top of
the chimney may be plugged.
5. Chimney diameter too large or too small to provide
adequate draft.
6. The house is too airtight (usually takes 20 to 30 minutes for problem to appear as stove lowers air pressure in house). Crack a window open or provide an
outside source of air near stove.
7. Insufficient vertical height to chimney to achieve
adequate draft.
8. The combustor is plugged from engaging too soon
(remove combustor and clean, see Maintenance
section, page 20).
DOES NOT PRODUCE ENOUGH HEAT (✸)
1. Using green or insufficiently cured wood.
2. Excessive draft.
3. High ceilings (heat rises quickly, but can be recirculated by a well-placed ceiling fan with a winter/summer switch).
4. The area to heat, is too large (square foot heating
estimates are based on "average" climates and
home design).
5. There's an obstruction in the chimney.
6. The chimney or chimney cap is restricted by creosote preventing enough draw to sustain a "HIGH"
heat rate.
7. Combustor light off has not occurred.
DOES NOT MAINTAIN A FIRE (✸)
1. Soft wood does not burn as long or as well as seasoned hardwood resulting in a short burn time.
2. Wood size too small. Burns at too rapid a rate.
3. The gasket seal on the fuel door, ash drawer or
glass is leaking air. Repair or replace it if necessary.
4. There is an obstruction in the chimney.
5. The stove was not up to normal operating temperature before the bypass damper control was pushed
closed.
6. Excessive draft.
BACKPUFFING (✸)
1. Downdraft in the chimney (may need a special
wind cap).
2. The catalytic combustor is too hot (avoid burn-
ing soft, pitchy woods, or large amounts of smalldiameter wood).
3 The house is too air tight (ventilation is needed).
4. Insufficient vertical height to chimney to achieve
adequate draft.
ODORS
1. Creosote accumulation in firebox (brush out on
next cleaning).
2. Chimney downdraft when stove is not operating
(close primary air control).
3. Catalytic combustor not functioning.
4. Paint curing on first several burns.
DIRTY GLASS (✸)
1. Poor draft conditions.
2. Long burn periods at low draft settings.
3. Burning wet, pitchy or spongy wood.
4. Poorly arranged logs (too close to glass).
(✸) DRAFT PROBLEMS: IF INSTALLING INTO A
LARGER FLUE, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO
USE A FULL LENGTH LINER TO ACHIEVE ADEQUATE DRAFT FOR THE APPLIANCE. A DRAFT
GAUGE SHOULD READ A MINIMUM OF .05"
W.C. (INCHES WATER COLUMN) NOT TO EXCEED .07" W.C. FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE
(See Draft Requirements, page 11).
PAGE 21
TROUBLESHOOTING
CATALYST PLUGGING
1. Burning materials that produce a lot of char and fly
ash. Do not burn materials such as garbage, gift
wrap, cardboard, etc.
2. Burning wet pitchy woods or burning large loads of
small diameter wood with the combustor in the operation position (without light-off taking place). Burn
proper fuel only. Do not close bypass until temperatures are high enough to initiate light off.
CATALYST DEACTIVATION
1. Burning large quantities of trash, pressure-treated
lumber or painted woods, etc. will deactivate the
catalyst. Burn proper fuels only. See Catalyst Re-placement, page 20.
CATALYST SUBSTRATE CRACKING
1. Normal operation, as long as combustor remains
intact. If cracking causes large pieces to fall out, replace combustor.
2. Mishandling or abuse. Handle with care.
3. Excessive draft. Correct installation. See Draft Re-
quirements, page 11.
CATALYST SUBSTRATE
1. Extreme thermal shock. Combustor is being worked
too hard.
2. Excessive draft. Correct installation. See Draft Re-
quirements, page 11.
CATALYST PEELING
Extreme Temperatures (over-firing) at combustor surface can cause the catalyst to peel. Some minor peeling
does not affect function. Severe peeling would close
cell openings and cause a plugging problem. If peeling
is severe, replace combustor. Do not overfire appliance.
See Overfiring, on page 23.
TAR AND LIQUID CREOSOTE LEAKING FROM
METAL FLUE JOINTS
1. No chimney cap on chimney. Install cap.
2. Metal flue assembled improperly. Top flue sections
should be inserted into lower flue sections.
DENSE SMOKE LEAVING CHIMNEY
1. Water vapor (on cold still days water vapor may be
mistaken for smoke). Water vapor is normal and
should be of little concern.
4. Combustor not functioning. See Catalyst Replace-ment, page 20.
NOISY HEAT SHIELD (OIL CANNING)
Rear or side heat shields make a noise (bong) during
heat up or cool down.
Large pieces of metal such as a side or rear heat shield
on a stove will normally expand and retract as it heats
and cools. If a noise develops in these shields (i.e. as
component heats and expands, it may flex, resulting in
a “bong” sound) it can be corrected. See following procedures:
There is an adjustable tension bolt
rear heat shield. To eliminate the expansion noise
during stove use, adjust the bolt and nut to increase
tension on the shield.
Tension
Bolt
in the center of the
PAGE 22
TROUBLESHOOTING
OVERFIRING DAMAGE
If the heater or chimney connector glows, the appliance is overfiring. Other symptoms may include:
Cracking, warping or burning out of components, catalytic combustor may deteriorate, gold doors may turn
color, stove glass may develop a haze which will not
come off with cleaning, firebox baffle plate (tunnel baffle) may warp, etc. Overfiring of a stove is a condition
where excessive temperatures are reached, beyond
the design capabilities of the appliance. The damage
that occurs from overfiring is not covered under the
manufacturers limited warranty. The following are a
few conditions that should be evaluated and (corrected if necessary) if an overfiring condition is suspected:
Overfiring Caused From Improper Installation
The venting system must satisfy the draft Requirements of the appliance. The appliance is merely one
component of a larger system. The other equally important component is the venting system, which is
necessary for achieving the required flow of combustion air to the fire chamber and for safely removing
unwanted combustion byproducts from the appliance.
If the venting system’s design does not promote these
ends, the system may not function properly, which
may create performance problems as well as may be
a safety hazard. To ensure that all installation requirements have been met as outlined in the installation manual. The chimney should be clean and in
good repair. A draft test should be performed to determine if the draft requirements of the appliance are
being met. A draft gauge should read between .05 and
.07 inches water column (W.C.I.).
Excessive draft (above .07 W.C.I.) will allow too much
combustion air to be pulled into the firebox, which results in hotter burns. Too little draft (below .05 W.C.I.)
will not allow enough combustion air delivery to maintain a fire well or cause performance problems such
as smoking (this may result in improper operation of
appliance, i.e. will not maintain fire well unless catalytic bypass is left open, or with fuel door left open
(see below - Overfiring Caused From Improper Opera-
tion).
Overfiring Caused From Improper Operation
Never burn the appliance with the fuel door open or
ajar, or the ash drawer open. Never burn the stove
with the bypass handle in the open position once the
fire has been established or the air control in the
"high" position for extended periods.
Overfiring Caused From Improper Maintenance
Should the fuel door, glass or ash drawer gaskets become worn or damaged, they should be replaced.
Overfiring Caused From Improper Fuel
This appliance is approved for use with natural dry
well seasoned wood only (consult your dealer for approved fuels in your area). Do not burn garbage, particleboard scraps, or pressed logs using bonding
agents because they can produce conditions that will
deteriorate metal. Green or uncured wood does not
work well as fuel, and can cause increased creosote
buildups. Do not overload or use kindling wood or mill
ends as primary fuel.
PAGE 23
SPECIFICATIONS: Model 1003C
Maximum Log Length 18” (458 mm)
Manufactured (Mobile)
Home Approved Yes, U.S.A. and
Canada
Outside Air Provision Yes
Flue Collar Size 6” (153 mm)
Flue Position Top
Stove Back to
Flue Center 9” (229 mm)
Width 25.25” (642 mm)
Depth 27” (686 mm)
Height (to flue) 34.5” (877 mm)
Height 32.5” (826 mm)
Approx. Burn Time 8 - 12 hours
Fuel Capacity 50 – 70 lbs. (23 – 32 kg)
Fire Box Size 3 cubic feet
(914 cubic millimeters)
27M80H Gasket Kit, Ash Drawer, 3/8" x 1/8" (16' of 01098)
1135 Knob, Ash Drawer (01135)
70K99 Paint, Metallic Black, 12 oz Spray Can, 76-141MB (#6309)
Firebox Parts
26M27 Damper Kit (includes damper, linkage and rod)
FB14 Firebrick, 6 3/4 x 3 x 2 3/8” Left (requires 1)
FB15 Firebrick, 6 3/4 x 3 x 2 3/8” Right (requires 1)
FB12 Firebrick, 7 3/8 x 4 ½ x 6 ¾” Left (requires 1)
FB13 Firebrick, 7 3/8 x 4 ½ x 6 ¾” Right (requires 1)
FB-1 Firebrick, 9 x 4 ½” Regular (order 5, if set is needed)
FB-2 Firebrick, 9 x 4 ½” w/Notch (order 8, if set is needed)
1115 Grate, Cast Iron (SN>3200 approx.) - 01115
PAGE 25
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST: Model 1003C
Cat. No. Model Description
/ Part No. Firebrick - All firebrick are 1 ¼” thick (see firebrick diagram below)
FB-1 Firebrick, 9 x 4 ½” Regular (order 5, if set is needed)
FB-2 Firebrick, 9 x 4 ½” W/Notch (order 8, if set is needed)
FB12 Firebrick, 7 3/8 x 4 ½ x 6 ¾” Left (requires 1)
FB13 Firebrick, 7 3/8 x 4 ½ x 6 ¾” Right (requires 1)
FB14 Firebrick, 6 3/4 x 3 x 2 3/8” Left (requires 1)
FB15 Firebrick, 6 3/4 x 3 x 2 3/8” Right (requires 1)
1115 Grate, Cast Iron
Firebrick
Left
Right
For the location of the nearest Dealer for replacement parts, contact:
Lennox Hearth Products
1110 West Taft Avenue
Orange, CA 92865
Bottom
Back
PAGE 26
COMPONENT DIAGRAMS - Model 1003C
Catalytic Combustor System Components
Secondary Air Tube
Bypass Damper Control
Tunnel Baffle
Positioning
Stops
Damper
Door
Catalytic
Combustor
Catalyic Combustor
Retainer Clip
Air Intake Draft Module
Door Assembly
Damper Assembly
Setscrews
Bypass Damper
Control Rod
Damper Blade Assembly
(Linkage)
Damper Door
Handle Assembly (P/N LB-102214)
Nut
Torque Plate
Handle
Rod
Washers
Coil Handle
PAGE 27
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES - Model 1003C
Note: Install and use accessories per instructions provided with the accessory kit.
Catalog # Model Description
14M67 OAFD-S Outside Air Floor Duct
* 14M72 DK100-G Gold Door Kit
* H0533 DK100-B Black Door Kit
14M22 BK-100 Blower Kit
14M21 SSK Stove Stat Kit
70K99 TSPK-B Touch-up Spray Paint Kit, Black (12 oz
spray can)
Stove-Stat Kit (SSK)
To automate the blower system an additional Stove-Stat kit
can be purchased. The Stove-Stat is a heat sensor switch
that will automatically turn on the blower when the stove is
hot and automatically turn it off when the stove is cool.
Stove-Stat
Magnetic Head
Outside Air Floor Duct
Outside air can be delivered for combustion air by utilizing this
floor penetration duct.
(Duct penetration measures 5 ¼” square)
Blower Kit (BK-100)
A Blower Kit (includes rheostat for variable speed control)
is available for increased heat circulation.
Stove Rear Heat
Shield
(OAFD-S)
Stove
Floor Protector
Floor
Duct
Blower Assembly
Blower Power
Cord Plug
Stove-Stat Power
Cord Plug
Grounded 110 Volt
Wall Receptacle
160 CFM Blower
Assembly
2 Screws
10-24 x 1/2”
Variable Speed Control, Dial-A-Temp
Plug Dial-A-Temp
into Wall Outlet
Plug Power Cord
into Bottom of
Dial-A-Temp
PAGE 28
SAFETY/LISTING LABEL
PAGE 29
EPA LABEL
PAGE 30
OWNERSHIP RECORDS
Dealer’s Name:
Dealer’s Address:
City: State: Zip Code:
Serial Number: Date of Purchase: Date Installed:
Notes:
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE LOG
Service Service Service
Date Technician Description
Page 31
1110 West Taft Avenue
Orange, CA 92865
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