PICO PICO RACE
PICO
Rigging Manual
1 Glossary /Useful Boat Terminology
2 Parts of e Pico/Specifications
3 Sail Numbers
4 Rigging the Mast and Cunningham
5 Raising the Mast
6 Rigging and Fitting the Boom
7 Rigging and Fitting the Vang
8 Traveler and Mainsheet
9 Rigging and Raising the Jib
10 Fitting the Rudder Assembly
11 Fitting the Daggerboard
12 Mainsail Reefing/Stowing the Mainsail
13 Launching and Basic Safety On e Water
14 Care and Maintenance
15 Examination Report
Pico Rigging Instructions
e Pico rigging instructions are a guide to rigging your boat.
Important information:
ere are three hatches and one transom drain bung on the Pico, these must all be checked to ensure tightness and
correct fit prior to sailing:
1. Glossary/Useful Boat Terminology
Aft: Rearward
Batten: A thin stiening strip in the sail to support the
leach
Boom: Spar at the bottom of the mainsail
Bow: Front of the boat
Burgee: Wind direction indicator (usually a small flag)
Daggerboard: A vertical sliding board to prevent side-
ways drift
Cleat: A fitting used for holding /securing ropes
Fairlead: A fitting that leads line in the most ecient
direction for operation
Foot: Bottom edge of the sail
Forward: Towards the bow of a boat
Gooseneck: A hinge fitting connecting the boom to the
mast.
Gunwhale: e outermost edge of the craft
Head: Top corner of sail
Kicking Strap: A line or series of lines between the base
of the mast and the underside of the boom to control
sail twist and boom positioning.
Jib: Front sail
Leech: Rear edge of the sail
Leeward: e side of the boat on which the main
sail is set when sailing
Lu: Forward edge of the sail
Mast: Main vertical spar supporting the rig/sails
Mainsheet: e rope controlling the position of the
mainsail
Mast Step: Integral tube where the mast heel/foot of
the mast is located
Port: e left hand side of the craft looking forward
Outhaul: Purchase system for tightening the bottom
edge/foot of the sail
Reefing: e ability to shorten sail appropriate to the
degree of wind strength
Shackle: A ‘U’-shaped piece of metal secured with a
pin, used for securing halyard to sails
Starboard: e right side of a craft looking forward
Stern: Back of the boat
Tack: Forward lower corner of sail
Tiller: A length of tube, usually wood, aluminum or
carbon fiber, which fits into the rudder head to allow
steerage
Tiller Extension: A length of tube, usually wood, aluminum or carbon fiber, connected to the tiller
by a universal joint that allows steerage while leaning
out
Transom: Flat area across the back of the boat to which
the rudder is hung
Vang: Purchase system for tightening the rear edge/
leach of the sail
Windward: the side of the boat opposite to which the
mainsail is set when sailing
2. Parts of the Pico/Specifications
Unpack your Pico and check that you have all the components.
Your Pico comes in the following main component parts:
1. Pico Hull
2. Pico Sail Kit - Jib and mainsail
3. Pico Spar Kit – Upper/lower mast and boom
4. Pico Foil Kit - Dagger-board, rudder assembly, blocks, fittings and Rope Pack
5. Pico Document Pack – Rigging and owners manuals, sail numbers and CE certificate
1
2
3
4
5
Your Pico comes in the following main
component parts:
Pico Rope Pack (Supplied as part of foil kit)
1. Dagger board shock cord – Blue (5mm x 1.2m)
2. Clew outhaul shock cord – Blue (5mm x 1.1m)
3. Vang/kicking strap rope primar y – Pre/s Black
(5mm x 1m)
4. Vang/kicking strap control line – Pre/s Black
(5mm x 2.3m)
4. Clew tie down - Pre/s Blue (4mm x 0.35m)
5. Traveller - Pre/s Blue (6mm x 1.2m)
6. Jib halyard - Pre/s Blue (4mm x 5m)
7. Outhaul control line - Pre/s Blue (4mm x 3.65m)
8. Cunningham control line - Pre/s Yellow
(4mm x 1.25m)
9. Jib sheet – Yellow (7mm x 6m)
10. Mainsheet – Blue (7mm x 10m)
Pico Blocks and Fittings
(Supplied as part of foil kit)
1. Vang lower block inc. hook x1
2. Vang upper blocks x2
3. Large traveller/block inc.
sister clip x1
4. Small traveller block inc.
sister clip x1
5. Twisted hook for clew outhaul x1
6. Loose sister clips x4
7. R igging link x1
8. Jib tack snap hook for x1
Useful
knots
to know
CLE AT CLOVE HITCHBOWLINESQUARE KNOTFIGURE 8 OR
STOPPER KNOT
1
6
2
7
3
8
4
5
Daggerboard
Foot of the Sail
Mast
Main sail
Lu
Jib
Bow
Tack of sail
Head of sail
Leach of sail
Clew of sail
Boom
Rudder
Stern/Transom
-
length ft/m
11.48 3.50
beam ft/m
4.69 1.43
draft ft/m
2.90 0.88
mainsail area ft²/m²
55.33 5.14
jib area ft²/m²
11.73 1.09
hull weight lb/kg
154.32 70.00
capacity
skill level
race level
optimal weight
lb/kg
132/176 60/80
transport
-
mainsail area ft²/m²
68.14 6.33
beginner-advanced
club
1-3 people
trailer or cartoppable
3. Sail Numbers
Sail Number positioning –
Standard sails
If you intend to race your Pico you will have to
attach your sail numbers.
1. Identify the sail number of your
LaserPerformance Pico by referring to the
builder’s serial number plate positioned on the
starboard (right hand) side of the aft/rear facing
mast buttress.
2. Cut the required sail numbers from the
generic digital 8’s supplied using the following
guidance:
3. Cut on the dotted line to make the specified
numb er.
4. Apply the sail numbers in a dry, clean and wind
free environment using the following guidance:
1. Lay the sail on a flat surface port side up.
2. e numbers on the starboard side are always
higher than the port side.
3. Measure 25 mm above the “P” of the Pico screen
print and draw the base line perpendicular to
the leach and blue sail panel.
4. Measure 70 mm from the leach and draw a line
parallel to the leach and perpendicular to the
base line previously drawn.
5. Position the port sail numbers starting with the
last digit squared to the base and leach lines.
6. e remaining numbers should be square to the
previous number and 60 mm apart.
7. Turn the sail over and mark a line on the
starboard side of the sail 100 mm above the port
numbers.
8. Starting with the first digit, work from the
leach line and position the sail numbers 60 mm
apart as above.
1
60mm
100mm
70mm
25mm
Sail Number positioning –
Race Sails (Optional extra)
4. Rigging e Mast and Cunningham
1. Lay the sail on a flat surface starboard side up.
2. e numbers on the starboard side are always
higher than the port side.
3. Measure 60 mm below the middle batten and
draw a line parallel to the batten pocket.
is marks the top line for the starboard
sail numbers.
4. Measure 70mm from the leach and draw a line
parallel to the leach and perpendicular to the
line previously drawn.
5. Position the starboard sail numbers starting
with the first digit squared to the top and
leach lines.
6. e remaining numbers should be square to the
previous number and 60 mm apart.
7. Turn the sail over and mark a line on the port side
of the sail 60 mm below the starboard numbers.
8. Starting with the last digit, work from the leach
line and position the sail numbers 60 mm apart
as above.
1. Insert the upper mast into the lower mast,
making sure that the red arrows align.
2. read the jib halyard through the halyard plate
eye on the upper mast.
3. Take one end of the halyard and pass it through
the halyard cleat on the port side of the lower mast
before temporarily tying the 2 free ends together.
4. Unfold the mainsail (try to keep it clean and dry)
and sleeve it over the top of the mast and jib
halyard, making sure that the mast stays together.
5. Slide the sail over the mast, with the
cunningham D-ring on the sail facing forward
in line with the cleats at the bottom front face
of the mast.
6. Take care to ensure the upper edge of the
topmast goes right to the head/top of the sail
until it bears up against the webbing strap at
the very top of the lu tube aperture.
7. If you are using the Race Sail, (Option) insert
the 3 battens into the batten pockets ensuring
that the batten ends engage into the fold at the
outer edge of each batten pocket.
1
2
3
4
5
60mm
60mm
70mm
8. Untie the previously temporarily tied jib
halyard ends and tie a Figure 8 stopper knot in
the end that goes through the cleat.
9. Working from the jib halyard exit point of the
mainsail, pull the non cleated rope end out
from inside the mainsail lu (ensuring that
it remains threaded through the eye) before
passing it back down the mast. (is time
outside the mainsail lu)
10. Temporarily re-tie this loose jib halyard end to
it corresponding end (near the base of the mast)
with a Figure eight stopper knot already tied
in it.
11. Take the cunningham line and tie a small
bowline loop around the D ring positioned on
the lower forward edge (lu) of the mainsail.
Pass the remaining loose end around the
“bridge” of the cleat mounted on the front face
of the mast.
12. Pass the loose end back around the D-ring
before feeding it back though the cleat, tying a
bowline loop/handle in its end.
13. Tighten the cunningham line just enough to
remove any wrinkles in the lu of the mainsail
before finally securing it in the cleat.
8
9
5. Raising e Mast
WARNING: In windy or bad weather the boom
can be rigged before raising the mast and
without clipping it onto the mast.
WARNING: e mast is metal and is an electrical
conductor. Contact with overhead electric wires
could be fatal, please exercise extreme caution
when raising the mast, launching and sailing.
1. With the boat turned bow/front into the wind,
remove the mast gate pin and open the mast
gate. Lift mast into the boat, dropping the
bottom of the mast into the mast step. Raise the
mast into an upright position and the mast gate
will close.
Warning: Do not let go of the mast at thi s stage or it may fall
backwards.
2. Insert the mast gate pin into the mast gate
claw. Remember to move the sliding tang to 90
degrees to lock the pin in position.
1
2
6.Rigging and Fitting e Boom
1. Clip the boom onto the mast above the black
collar. is will require a firm push.
2. Pass the clew tie down through the clew
outhaul twisted hook and around the aft/rear
end of the boom to form a captive loop with both
ends together using a reef knot.
3. Tie the clew outhaul line to the small plastic
fairlead on the aft/rear end of the boom using a
bowline. Pass the remaining loose end through
the eye of the clew outhaul twisted hook and
back through the plastic fairlead. is creates a
2:1 purchase cascade system as shown.
4. Pass the loose end forwards, through the cleat
in the mid section of the boom and around the
plastic fairlead mounted at the front of the boom.
5. Finally pass the loose end through one of the
sister clips (loose kit part) before tying a Figure
8 stopper knot in its end.
6. Take the long piece of shock cord and tie one end
through another one of the sister clips (loose kit
part) before tying a Figure 8 stopper knot in its
end.
7. Clip the two aforementioned sister clips together
to form the tidy up line for your clew outhaul.
8. Take the shock cords remaining loose end and
tie it through the clew outhaul twisted hook
using a small bowline loop.
Note: is slightly elaborate outhaul arrangement
creates a tidy and convenient endless system that
can remain rigged on the boom once initially setup
for your first sail.
9. Ensure the boat is point bow/front in to the
wind and connect the sail to the boom by
locating the clew hook into the clew eyelet at
the aft/rear corner of the sail.
10. Finally tension the clew out haul to the desired
amount and secure it in the cleat on the boom.
1
2
3
4b
4a
7
6
5
9
10
8
7. Rigging and Fitting e Vang
8. Mainsheet and Traveler
Note: e Laser Pico is supplied with a 6:1 vang
purchase cascade. (3 block system)
1. Take the vang lower block and using its integral
snap hook attach it to the eye plate positioned
on the aft/rear face of the mast.
(Just above the mast gate)
2. Take the short (primary) vang line and attach
one end to the becket of the lower vang block
using a bowline.
3. Take one of the upper vang blocks and using
the shackle provided attach it to the stainless
eye plate positioned on the lower surface of the
boom. (Near the front end).
4. Pass the loose end of the short (primary) vang
line and pass it around the aforementioned upper
vang block before attaching it to the shackle of the
second (upper vang block) using a bowline.
5. Take the longer (secondary) vang line and attach
one end directly through the central hole (Not
around the pulley sheave) of the second upper
vang block using a bowline.
6. Fead the remaining loose end around the
purchase system as shown before passing it
through the cleat of the vang lower block, tying
a 30 cm diameter loop/handle in its end.
7. Tension the vang to the desired amount and
secure it in the cleat that forms an integral part
of the vang lower block.
1. Join the large traveller block to the small
traveller block using their integral sister clips.
2. To attach the traveller to the boat, take the
traveller line and tie a figure of 8 stopper knot
in one end before passing the non tied end
through:
a. e small plastic fairlead on one side of the
deck (Situated near the transom)
b. e smaller of the two traveller blocks
c. e small plastic traveller fairlead on the
opposite side of the hull
3. Finally tie a Figure 8 stopper knot in the
loose end.
1
1
6
2
2
7
3
3
4
5
4. When standing on the starboard/right hand
side of the hull:
a. Tie a Figure eight stopper knot in one end of the
mainsheet before passing the non tied/loose
end through the becket of the boom aft/rear
mainsheet block in a bow to stern direction.
b. Feed the loose end downwards, passing
around the large traveller block in a bow to
stern direction.
c. Feed the loose end upwards passing around
the mainsheet block on the lower aft/rear
surface of the boom travelling in a stern to
bow direction.
d. Guide the loose end forward through the
webbing sling immediately above the helm’s
cockpit area.
Note: is prevents the rope from sagging
and getting tangled up around the helmsman
during tacks and jibes!
e. Pass the loose end through the remaining
mainsheet block positioned on the lower midsection of the boom travelling in a stern to
bow direction.
f. Pass the loose end through the mainsheet
ratchet block situated on the up-stand/turret
in the middle of the boats cockpit. (Take care to
ensure the mainsheet passes through the block
such that the ratchet block free wheels when
sheeting in but locks when sheeting out)
g. Finally tie a Figure eight stopper knot in the
end of the mainsheet to prevent accidental
unthreading when in use.
2
4
4a
4d
4b
4e
4c
4f
9. Rigging and Raising e Jib
1. Fasten the jib tack snap hook to the jib using the
shackle provided.
2. Hook for the jib tack snap hook to the eye on the
bow as shown.
3. Tie the jib halyard to the head of the jib using a
small bow line loop.
4. Hoist the jib and cleat the halyard securely in
the cleat. en stow the free end of the halyard
in the pocket on the tack of the mainsail.
1
1
7
3
8
4
5. Tie the jib sheet onto the jib clew by taking
the jib sheet in the centre and passing the loop
through the clew cringle. Pass the two free ends
through the loop and pull tight. Ensure that
the two rope ends are the same length.
6. read one loose end of the jib sheet through
the plastic fairlead on the port deck and the
other through the corresponding fairlead on the
starboard deck. (immediately aft of the mast
butt ress)
7. Finally tie a Figure eight stopper knot in each
loose end to prevent accidental unthreading
when in use.
10. Fitting e Rudder Assembly
1. Insert the aft/rear end of the tiller arm tube in
to the rudder head tiller arm hood travelling in
a forward to aft/rearward direction.
2. Line up the tiller arm retaining screw hole with
its corresponding recess/hole on the uppermost
aft/rear surface of the rudder head tiller arm
hood.
3. Locate the tiller arm retaining screw, driving it
carefully through both the rudder head and the
tiller arm.
4. Clip the tiller extension to its mounting bracket
on the uppermost forward surface of the tiller
arm.
5. Take the rudder assembly and pass the tiller
extension and tiller arm under the mainsheet
bridle strop at the aft/stern edge of the boat.
6. Lower the rudder head assembly onto the rudder
gudgeons situated on the stern/transom of the
boat.
7. Ensure the integral rudder gudgeon clip (blue)
is successfully engaged, resulting in the rudder
head automatic “clicking” in to place securely.
8. Fit the secondary rudder retaining split ring
through the upper pintle pin.
Note: To remove the rudder assembly from the
transom gudgeons, the rudder retaining split ring
must be removed and the integral rudder gudgeon
clip (blue) pressed inward.
When adjusting the kick-up cleat mechanism on
your Pico rudder, we strongly recommend that
you set the cam at the minimum setting and
progressively increase it to suit your experience and
style of sailing.
If racing and sailing in strong winds you will want
to set the kick –up load higher. If recreational
sailing o the beach you will want to set the kick
up much lower.
Warning: Running aground with the kick-up set incorrectly
could damage your rudder and the hull.
e auto-release cleat provides the neatest and
best solution to the problem of how to lock-down
a rudder blade yet allow it to flip up if it hits
the bottom or a solid obstacle in the water. e
cleat holds ropes securely, yet will release them
immediately when the cleat is overloaded. Once
tripped, it can be easily reset in seconds by just
pushing the cleat back down into its base.
e cleat is also fitted with an adjustable cam so
that the release tension can be set to suit the boat
and local conditions. e cam is adjusted until the
rudder blade is held down reliably under maximum
sailing conditions. e cleat will then be set so that
the least strain is put on the rudder if it hits an
obstacle.
Setting the Release Load
1. Test release load with “cam” at minimum
setting.
2. To increase load use a screwdriver to rotate
“cam” towards maximum.
Warning: To avoid damaging equipment, make small adjust
ments and test each increase. Tests show that release loads of
240kg (530lbs) are possible with the cam at “maximum” setting.
Smaller or worn ropes release at higher loads than larger new
ropes.
11. Fitting e Daggerboard
12. Mainsail Reefing/
Stowing e Mainsail
1. read the daggerboard shockcord through
the small hole in the forward top corner of the
daggerboard.
2. Put one of the remaining sister clips (loose kit
parts) on each end of the shockcord before tying
a figure of eight stopper knot in each end of the
line to prevent unthreading.
3. When you put the board into its slot upon
launching, you can then loop the shockcord
retaining line round the base of the mast
(Below the mast gate) and clip it together.
Warning: If the daggerboard is not secured using the shock
cord and fully re-tracts during a capize, the boat will invert and
there is a risk of entrapment.
In strong winds, or if you are unsure whether you
can cope with the conditions, it is always best to
reef the sail down to reduce its area.
1. Ease the vang and unhook the lower vang block
from the eye bracket on the aft face of the mast
immediately above deck level.
2. Un-cleat the outhaul control line
3. Rotate the mast through 720 degrees (two
complete turns) in a clockwise direction.
4. Re-attach the lower vang block to the eye
bracket on the aft face of the mast immediately
above deck level.
5. Re-tension tension the clew out haul to the
desired amount and secure it in the cleat on
the boom.
6. Finally re-tension the vang to the desired
amount and secure it in the cleat that forms
an integral part of the lower vang assembly.
1
6
2
3
3
4 5
&
Your Pico Is Now Ready For Launching!
reefed sail
For convenience after sailing, the mainsail can
temporarily be stowed by wrapping the sail around
the mast in a clockwise direction and positioning
the clews webbing strap over the integral plastic
sail hook.
Note: If your Pico is not being used for more than a
day or so, all sails should be stowed dry and clean in
the sail bag provided.
13. Launching and Basic Safety On e Water
Before You Go Sailing:
1. Check to make sure you are wearing suitable
clothing and safety equipment for the conditions
and time of year.
2. Always wear a buoyancy aid or life jacket
3. Make sure a third party knows where you are
sailing and how many of you are sailing.
4. Check the weather forecast
5. Check the time of high and low tides if applicable.
6. Seek advice on local conditions if sailing in a
new area.
7. Always check the condition of your craft before
setting o .
8. Check for overhead cables when rigging, launching
and recovering.
9. e use of a LaserPerformance supplied Pico mast
head float is highly advisable.
(is de vice will assist in the pre vention of comple te inversion in
the event of capsiz e)
Launching
1. Raise the rig with the boat facing into the wind.
2. Launch the boat using the appropriate launching
trolley/dolly.
3. Take the boat into the water with the bow facing into
the wind.
4. Ensure that there is enough water to fl oat the boat o
the trolley/dol ly.
5. When there is enough water below you, lower the
daggerboard and rudder fully.
6. Cleat the rudder downhaul in the cleat on the tiller.
7. e rudder and the daggerboard should be raised
before coming ashore.
On e Water
1. Conform to the sailing rules of the road.
2. Look out for changing weather conditions.
3. Never sail beyond your ability or that of your crew.
4. Understand and be competent in sailing skills and
righting techniques.
14. Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance
Product
Before rigging your boat, read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to these guidelines could invalidate your warranty.
Maintenance
• Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may
show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. is is not serious and can be removed with
a fine abrasive.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull.
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
based spray. Do not use oil.
• Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone.
• When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
• Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
• Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up onto a
beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should not be left
on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be
serviced annually. e trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible manner
to avoid damaging the hull. For instance, LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on rollers except on
the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung trolleys for our small
er products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain water away from the
hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gel coat and changes to the hull color.
Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has not been specifically designed
for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or wrongly set up trailer or trolley are not
covered under warranty.
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over tightened and that there is sucient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being damaged
through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to “flap” when driving at speed. is can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and skills.
Contact LaserPerformance for advice.
Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. is is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period
can also damage the hull. e under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. is can cause blistering, print through
and warpage.
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.
On Water Towing
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.
15. Examination Report
All rights reserved. ©2017 LaserPerformance.
LaserPerformance and associated logos are
trademarks. Laser, the Sunburst Device, Sunfish
and Dart are trade marks used under license.
LaserPerformance reserves the right to make
design and/or specification changes to any
of their products as part of their continuous
development program.
LaserPerformance north america
PO Box 1409
Norwalk, Connecticut 06856
USA
CustomerCare@LaserPerformance.com
LaserPerformance europe
Station Works Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
CustomerCare@LaserPerformance.com
LaserPerformance international
Unit A1, 22nd floor
MG Tower
133 Hoi Bun Road, Kwun Tong,
Hong Kong
CustomerCare@LaserPerformance.com
www.laserperformance.com
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