Laser Cut Planes HogNose Building Instructions

HogNose
Building instructions.
March 19, 2018
Version 1.1
THANKYOU FOR PURCHASING THE HOGNOSE FROM "LASERCUTPLANES.CO.UK"
PLEASE READ THE MANUAL BEFORE STARTING TO FAMILIARISE YOURSELF WITH THE BUILD PROCEDURE.
1:-The kit is supplied in 6 laser cut sheets. Sheets 1 to 5 are 1/16th balsa. Sheet 6 is 1mm ply. There is also a bag of accessories containing push rods, undercarriage wire, wheels etc.
2:- The items are held in place on the sheets by small tabs. These tabs need to be cut through carefully in order to remove the items. Also due to the varying density of the balsa there may be the odd place that the laser has not cut fully through and any areas like this also need to be cut through. A scalpel with a no11 blade is ideal for this.
3:- We find it best to leave the items on the sheets until they are needed for the build. This way any small items are less likely to get lost . 4:- The instructions which follow assume you are using the motor, gearbox and receiver which can be bought as optional extras to the kit. If you are NOT using these items then certain modifications will need to be made to facilitate the fitting of any alternative parts.
5:- The plane is designed for indoor flying or for outdoor in flat calm conditions.
Specification.
Wing span = 490mm Overall length = 400mm Flying weight, (Including battery) = < 58 grms.
General Comments. Please read before starting.
March 19, 2018
Version 1.1
WARRANTY
Lasercutplanes guarantee this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Lasercutplanes liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Lasercutplanes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
LIABILITY RELEASE
In that Lasercutplanes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from use by the user. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition when a full refund minus postage costs will be given.
THIS PRODUCT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER.
WARNING: The use of CA glue is advised for the kit assembly. Adhere strictly to the health and safety procedures recommended by the manufacturers of the glue being used.
PRODUCT SUPPORT
This product has been engineered to function properly and perform as advertised, with the suggested power system and supporting electronics as outlined within this product manual. Product support cannot be provided, nor can Lasercutplanes assist in determining the suitability or use of electronics, hardware, or power systems not explicitly recommended by Lasercutplanes.
For product assembly support, replacement parts, hardware, and electronics to complete this model, please contact info@Lasercutplanes.co.uk
Lasercutplanes
Contact :- Info@lasercutplanes.co.uk Sales :- sales@lasercutplanes.co.uk
Suggested Items needed to Complete this Model
Many of the suggested items listed below are available at your local hobby shop. For your convenience, lasercutplanes stock most the power system components and some of the building supplies required to complete this kit. If you have difficulties sourcing any of these items locally, please visit our website, lasercutplanes.co.uk to purchase the items necessary to complete your model.
Suggested Electronics
RC transmitter DSM2/DSMX with at least 3 channelsReceiver/ESC/Servo brick (AR6410 or equivalent)Motor/Gearbox (PKZ3624)Propeller, 130mm x 70mm (EFL9051)LiPo battery, 120 - 160 mAh 3.7V
This assumes the use of Spektrum electronics. Other systems may be used.
Covering Film Requirements
Any high-quality covering film may be used to finish this model, superior results will be achieved by using the lightest covering film possible. (Solite currently available to purchase with the kit).
1 - Pack of Solite sufficient to cover complete plane Available in Transparent Red, Blue and Green. (other colours available to order).
We recommend the use of Acrylic paint to finish the bare wood parts of the model. This may be either brushed or airbrushed on.
Required Building Supplies and Tools
CA glue, medium, CA glue, thin, CA glue accelerator Hobby knife with supply of #11 bladesSanding block with 400 and 600 grit paper
Building Supplies and Tools
Covering iron and heat gunNeedle nose pliers, smallClear tape, 1/2 in. Velcro for mounting battery Masking tapeSolite covering film
Optional Building Supplies and Tools
Balsa filler (HCAR3401)Modeling clay (ballast)CA glue de-bonder (PAAPT16)
Required Building Supplies
KIT INVENTORY.
5 X 1/16th BALSA SHEETS OF LASERCUT PARTS. 1 X 1mm PLYWOOD SHEET OF LASERCUT PARTS. NOSE CONE IN 2 PARTS IN 1/8th BALSA. 2 X CARBON FIBRE PUSHRODS. 4 X PUSH ROD ENDS. HEAT SHRINK TUBING. PLASTIC RECEIVER CLIP. PREFORMED UNDERCARRAIGE WIRE. 2 X WHEELS.
SUGGESTED OPTIONAL EXTRAS.
1 X AR6410 or EQUIVALENT, DSM2/DSMX 6 CHANNEL RECEIVER WITH LINEAR SERVOS AND BRUSHED ESC. 1 X PARKZONE P51 MOTOR AND GEARBOX. (PKZ3624) 1 X E-Flite Micro 4-Site PROPELLER with SPINNER. (EFL9051) 1 X SOLITE COVERING FILM (TRANSPARENT BLUE, RED OR GREEN).
REQUIRED TO FINISH.
DSM2 OR DSMX COMPATIBLE TRANSMITTER. LIPO BATTERY, SINGLE CELL 130-160 mAH
These suggestions are for Spektrum systems, When using other systems the electronic requirements will, of course be different.
INVENTORY
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HogNose building instructions
6
Step 1
Take item "F1a" (sheet 6) and place it on a flat surface with the markings uppermost.
Note that the recess for the motor is intentionally angled to give the model right thrust.
Glue the 2 items "F1b" (sheet 6) into the slots in the TOP of "F1a" using 1 spot of CA where shown. Ensure no glue enters the slot at the front of "F1a". This is where the motor will slide into position.
Step 3
Step 2
Glue item "F3" (sheet 3) to the back of the assembly made in Step 1.
Note that 2 of the slots in "F3" are left empty. These are used later.
1 spot of CA
Ensure no glue enters this slot.
Turn "F1a" over and glue the 2 items "F2" (sheet 6) into the slots in "F1a" Ensure no glue enters the slots between "F1a" and "F1b". No glue in these 2 slots
Motor recess.
No glue in this slot
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HogNose building instructions
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Step 5
Step 4
Locate the plastic receiver clip (in bag of accessories) and glue this into the slots in "F4" and the 2 "RT's".
Photo of the completed assembly. Note the slot for the motor is completely clear. If this is not the case use a small file or blade to clean it out. Be careful not to enlarge it as the motor mount needs to be a snug fit.
Set this assembly aside.
THIS STEP ONLY APPLIES IF YOU ARE USING THE OPTIONAL RECEIVER SUPPLIED WITH THE KIT. Otherwise you'll need a tray to fit the receiver being used.
Take item "F4" (SHEET 4) and place it TOP DOWN on the work surface. Working on the UNDERSIDE:­Locate the 2 plywood items "RT" (sheet 6). Glue these into the slots provided in "F4". Note they only fit one way around.
This slot must be clear
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HogNose building instructions
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This shows the completed assembly.
Step 6
Step 8
Locate the small item "C" (sheet 1) and glue this into place in the slots provide at the rear of the fuselage side. The slot in this item is for the pushrod to pass through. (Elevator or rudder). Repeat this step on the RH Fus. Keep all markings on the inside so they don't show on the finished model.
Photo of assembly.
Glue "F4" into the back of the "F3" assembly from step 3, ensuring a 90 degree joint between the two. Ensure the top of "F4" is uppermost.
(You can use one of the fuselage sides to hold the items in the correct position until the glue has set but don't glue the assembly to the fuselage yet).
Step 7
Glue
90 degrees
Take "Fus LH" and the items "A" and "B" (sheet 1). Glue "A" and "B" into their corresponding positions in "Fus LH". Repeat this step on "Fus RH". Keep all markings to one side. That way they don't show on the finished model.
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HogNose building instructions
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Step 9
FOLLOW THIS STEP CLOSELY.
Fit the "Fus RH" in place but DO NOT GLUE.
Manoeuver "F7" "F8" and "F9" (sheet 6) into place. ("F8" is sandwiched between "F7" and "F9" to form the slot for the undercarriage to fit into). You need to let the RH fuselage side move out to achieve this.
When everything is correctly seated, apply glue to the 7 tenons (shown circled) on BOTH FUSELAGE SIDES to hold everything in place. DO NOT allow any glue to enter the undercarriage slot.
Step 10
Step 11
Take the assembly completed in "Step 6" and glue it into the slots in the "LH Fus". Note that there will be a gap forward of "F3", DON'T Glue this yet.
DO NOT GLUE THE OTHER FUSELAGE SIDE TO THIS ASSEMBLY.
Fit and glue "F5" (sheet 1) to the fuselage LH side and also to rear of "F4".
Ensure the markings on "F5" are facing forward.
gap
Glue Glue Fus LH
Fus RH
F7F8F9
Glue the tenons only
Undercarriage slot
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Step 12
Step 15
Manoeuver item "F12" (sheet 3) into position and when correctly seated glue just the 4 places where shown. (DON'T glue to the fuselage sides yet).
Turn the fuselage over. Manoeuver item F13 (sheet 2) into place and when correctly seated glue just the 4 places shown. DON'T glue to the fuselage sides yet.
Step 13
Ensure a tight fit then apply glue to all joints around "F4".
You can now pinch together the front of the fuselage sides until they are tight along the edge of "F1a" and then glue in place.
Step 14
Fit "F6" (sheet 1) into the slots in fuselage sides and pinch the tail ends together. DO NOT GLUE.
Ensure the markings on "F6" are facing forward.
Hold the tail together with a small piece of masking tape or similar. Glue Pinch and glue
Hold together with tape
F6
Glue Glue
F12
F13
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HogNose building instructions
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Remove the tape that was holding the tail together and check for perfect alignment. This is very important because if these are misaligned the horizontal stabiliser will not fit correctly. When perfectly aligned, glue the tail ends of the fuselage together.
Step 18
The fuselage sides can now be glued to "F12" and "F13". Start at the position shown and work your way back to the tail ensuring a good fit all along.
Fit item "F15" and glue in place. ENSURE that the undercarriage slot is free from obstruction. DON'T allow glue to enter the slot.
Step 16
Photo of "F13" in place. Note the sides not glued.
Step 17
Sides not glued
Just the tabs glued
Perfect Alignment
Glue
Start here
Ensure good fit all along.
"F13"
"F12"
Start here
"F15"
Don't allow glue in slot
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HogNose building instructions
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Fit "NC1" (nose cone one 1/8th balsa).
Squeeze the fuselage sides in to make a tight joint and glue into place around the edges and around the tenons.
Ensure no glue enters the motor slot.
Step 19
Step 20
Fit "NC2" and glue into place. (fit with the markings innermost. Shown this way for clarity).
Ensure a good tight fit between "NC1 and "NC2".
Ensure no glue enters the motor slot.
Locate "F14" (sheet 6). and glue into place at the front of the receiver bay. DO NOT allow any glue to enter the undercarriage slot.
Test fit "F19" (sheet 4) under the nose. Adjust if required by lightly sanding the ends. When happy with the fit, glue it into place.
Step 22
Step 21
Check the fit at each end
Tight joint
Glue No glue in slot
Glue
Tightly together and glue
NO GLUE in this slot.
"F14"
Keep slot clear
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HogNose building instructions
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Fit "F20" (sheet 3) noting that it only fits one way. The edges only go half way across the fuselage side thickness, leaving a small step to accept the wings.
Glue into place FROM THE INSIDE to avoid glue entering the step for the wings.
Step 23
Sand the nose cone into a pleasing shape. Also lightly sand the whole of the fuselage rounding off all sharp corners and removing any glue residue.
This completes the fuselage.
Set aside.
Step 24
Fit "F19" (sheet 4) with its' front edge flush with the front of the nose cone. There should be a small gap at the back of "F19" to accept the windscreen. (fitted later).
Don't worry if there is an overlap at the sides, this will be sanded off later.
Glue into place.
NOTE:­If you are going to paint the inside of the cockpit, then this is best done now before the next step.
Step 25
Flush
Small gap
Don't get glue in this corner
F20
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Take the 2 "W4" wing ribs (sheet
1) and position them as shown. Position a "W4a" (sheet 6) on each rib and align it with the markings on the rib. The bottom edges must be flush. Glue into place. This strengthens the ribs at this point and creates small pockets to accept the wing stays later.
Step 26
Step 29
Take "W2" (sheet 1) and fit it in the slot labelled "W2" on the underside of the wing. Ensure the correct way around and that the rear edge is flush with the wing edge. Also make sure the rib is at 90 degrees to the wing. The rib markings go next to the wing markings. IE "W2" next to "W2". Glue only at the point shown.
Bend the wing around "W2" to engage the tenon at the leading edge. Glue just the tenon into place.
Repeat steps 28 and 29 on the other wing.
Step 27
Place "W1 LH" (sheet 4) on the work surface with the markings uppermost. Fit "W1a" (sheet 4) into the slots and glue in place.
Repeat this step on "W1 RH". (sheet 3)
Step 28
Glue Glue this point only
these edges level.
Glue here only.
Pocket for wing stay
W2
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HogNose building instructions
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Fit "W3" (sheet 1) and "W4" (from step
27) to the wing, engaging the rib tabs into their respective wing slots.
Ensure that you use the correct "W4" assembly (from Step 27) so that the pockets are facing inwards. i.e. The reinforcing strip is on the outside.
Step 30
Photo of finished wings.
Turn the wing over and set on a flat surface. Glue only the tenons as shown. This should ensure that the wing is flat and not twisted.
Check again by sighting along the ribs. When happy, glue all ribs fully in place.
Ensure NO GLUE enters the slots for the wing spar shown in picture for Step 31.
Repeat Step 31 and 32 on the other wing.
This completes the wings.
Set them aside.
Step 31
Repeat steps 28 and 29 for the fitting of "W5" (sheet 1) at the outer end of the wing. Sight along the wings to check they are not twisted.
Repeat on the other wing.
Step 32
Pockets facing inward.
Slots for wing spar.
W3W4.
Glue Glue
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HogNose building instructions
16
Locate the 2 items "E2" (sheet 2) and item "E1" (sheet 6) Fit them together as shown on a flat surface, (all markings on underside). Note that "E1" is slightly thinner than "E2". The front edge MUST be in a straight line so set this against a straight edge and glue "E1" into place. Ensure no glue enters the slots for the elevator control horn. Set aside.
Step 33
Step 36
Locate items "SA" and "SB", 2 of each. (sheet 6). These are the wings stays.
Fit each pair together as shown on a flat surface, Glue the joints. Ensure a strong joint.
Set aside.
Locate "VS" and "R". vertical stabiliser (sheet 3) and rudder. (sheet 4)
Lightly sand and round off the edges shown. The joining edges should be left square.
Step 34
Locate "HS" (sheet 5), and the 4 ribs marked "D" and "E". (sheet 4).
Fit he ribs into "HS" as shown and on a flat surface, glue into place.
Set aside.
Step 35
Round off
Round off
Square
Square
E2E2E1
This edge MUST be straight
No glue in slots
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HogNose building instructions
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Locate "E3" (sheet 6). Take the elevator assembly from "Step 33" and place it on a flat surface with the markings uppermost, as shown.
Insert "E3" into the slot shown. i.e. the right hand slot when viewing from the straight edge. It should be at 90 degrees to the elevator and the small hole should be approximately vertically over the edge of the elevator. Glue into place.
Step 37
The model now ready for covering/painting.
PAINTING
Paint the following areas.
The receiver bay under the fuselage which takes the receiver and the battery. The underside of both wings. Both wing stays from "Step 35" The wing spar "WS" sheet 4. The rudder assembly from "Step 37". BOTH SIDE AT THE SAME TIME TO AVOID WARPING. The elevator assembly form "Step 38". BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME. Item "TS", (tail skid), sheet 4. The horizontal stabiliser assembly from "Step 33". BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME. The vertical stabiliser. BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME. The nose cone can either be painted or covered with film.
Step 38
Locate "R2" (Sheet 6), and fit it into the slot in the rudder. This MUST be fitted from the side of the rudder marked "R", also it must be at 90 degrees to the rudder and positioned so that the small hole is approximately vertically over the rudder edge.
Glue into place.
Step 39
Keep the horizontal stabiliser, vertical stabiliser, elevator and rudder flat until fully dry.
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The uncovered area is required to allow for the installation of the push rods. This area will be covered after the receiver and pushrods have been installed and tested.
Cover the following items.
The roof of the cockpit is best covered after the wings have been fitted. This way the joint can be covered and it looks neater.
If using a transparent covering film, don't remove the film that covers the side cockpit windows. If using a solid colour covering, the openings may be cut out and clear acetate sheet attached to form the windows.
Remove all covering from along the wing joint.
Underside of covered fuselage
Covered fuselage
Don't cover, access required for installing pushrods.
Don't cover until after wings are fitted
No covering along wing joint.
Cover side windows
The top surface ONLY of both wings. The top surface ONLY of the horizontal stabiliser. The whole of the fuselage except for the cockpit roof and the underside of "F13".
This Photo shows the covered horizontal stabiliser. NOTE:- This is only covered on the upper side.
Is this photo the stabiliser has just been test fitted and it is not glued at this stage.
Upper surface only is covered with film.
COVERING
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Top rear of fuselage
Remove all covering from along the horizontal stabiliser joint.
Remove the covering from the pushrod slots on both sides of the fuselage.
Step 40.
Locate "WS" (sheet 6). Remove the covering from the slots just under the cockpit roof. Feed "WS" through the slots.
Ensure that "WS" is the correct way up. I.E. the tips are higher than the centre.
There are marks to position "WS" centrally but if these have been obscured by the painting, measure each side to get it exactly central.
Then turn the model over to gain access to the joint through the windscreen hole and run glue along the joint as shown.
Remove covering from pushrod slots. Both sides
Tenons for horizontal stabiliser must be free from covering
Remover covering from these notches
Slit the covering to allow undercarriage to fit.
Remove the covering from the notches for the wing stays.
Slit the covering to allow the undercarriage wire to enter its slot.
Measure from fuselage to tip of "WS" to get both sides equal.
VERY IMPORTANT. "WS" MUST BE CENTRAL
Glue along this joint
Remove covering from slots
Positioning marks
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Step 41
Photo of the fuselage with "WS" fitted.
PUSHRODS.
Locate the 2 lengths of carbon fibre, the 2 SMALLER diameter push rod ends and cut 2 x 10mm lengths of the heat shrink tube. (bag of accessories)
Photo.
Step 42
Put the heat shrink tube over the one end of the carbon rod, insert a push rod end into the heat shrink tube as shown.
Using a heat gun shrink the tube onto the carbon rod and the metal push rod end. Repeat with the other items to make two push rods. Secure the tube onto the rods with a drop of CA glue.
Fit the two pushrods to the receiver linear servos as shown using the centre hole on esch servo tab.
Ensure that the push rod ends are fully engaged, the last bend should be pointing upward.
Step 43
Small diameter metal push rod end
Heat shrink tube
Carbon rod
Drop of CA
Centre hole
Pointing up
Elevator pushrod
Rudder pushrod
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Step 45
With the receiver still attached and the correct way up:­Feed the other ends of the rods through the holes in "F5" and "F6" which are marked "E" for the elevator rod and "R" for the rudder rod.
It's the outer 2 holes in "F5" and the upper 2 holes in "F6". (This view is of the underside).
The other holes are not used but may help if fitting your own receiver.
And finally out through the slots in the fuselage sides through piece "C".
These rod have been pre-cut to length and should not require further trimming.
Now fit the receiver into the receiver tray and check it is fully located in the small notches in the plastic receiver clip. (SEE BELOW).
Step 44
E R Slot in "C" fuselage side.
Elevator pushrod
Rudder pushrod
Nose
Fit the receiver to this slot first
Gently push until the receiver clicks into position
Note:- Push rods not shown in this view for clarity.
To fit the receiver into the receiver tray.
Locate the "V7" lettering on the receiver and engage this part of the receiver into the rear notch of the plastic receiver clip. Then gently push the front of the receiver down until it engages in the front clip.
"V7"
Fitting the receiver into the tray.
Tail
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Fit the horizontal stabiliser to the top rear of the fuselage, covered side uppermost, making sure to engage the 4 tenons into their slots. MAKE SURE the horizontal stabiliser is at 90 degrees to the fuselage.
Turn the fuselage over and glue the stabiliser into place.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that the stabiliser is at 90 degrees to the fuselage.
Step 46
Step 49
Remove the covering form the top centre portion of the horizontal stabiliser as shown.
Fit the vertical stabiliser, ensure that all 3 tenons are fully engaged into their slots and glue this in place.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that the vertical stabiliser is at 90 degrees to the horizontal stabiliser.
Step 47
Test the setup at this point.
Bind the receiver to your transmitter.
Test the operation of both elevator and rudder.
If everything is running smoothly continue with next step.
Step 48
Uncovered face of stabiliser
Glue along this joint ,both sides
Remove covering
Glue along this joint both sides
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Step 50.
Take 2 pieces of adhesive tape, 1 at 50 x 12mm and the other 20 x 12mm.
Attach them to the rudder as shown. i.e. to the side that does NOT have the control horn attached.
Then attach the rudder to the vertical stabiliser leaving a small gap (1mm approx.) between the two.
The rudder should have approximately 30 degrees of movement side to side.
Take 2 pieces of adhesive tape 55 x 12mm.
Attach them as shown to the TOP of the elevator, i.e. to the side that does not have the control horn attached.
Step 51
Adhesive tape
Then attach the elevator to the horizontal stabiliser leaving a small gap (1mm approx.), between the two.
The elevator should have approximately 30 degrees of movement up and down. Adhesive tape
1mm parallel gap.
1mm parallel gap.
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Step 52
Repeat the above procedure with the rudder.
The rudder must be straight before shrinking the tube. Use DIRECT HEAT as a heat gun WILL damage the covering.
Power up the transmitter and receiver and check that both rudder and elevator operate correctly.
If all is well, the underside of F13 can now be covered with film.
Cut a short length, (approx. 15mm) of the heat shrink tubing supplied. Slide this over the end of the elevator pushrod.
Take one of the larger diameter push rod ends. Fit the "Z bend" to the elevator control horn ensuring that it is correctly seated with the end pointing away from the elevator, then slide the other end into the heat shrink tube.
Note that the end is bent to bring the wire parallel to the pushrod. This bend may need adjusting.
Position the elevator so it is IN LINE with the horizontal stabiliser and then apply heat to the tube to shrink it onto the pushrod and end. Use DIRECT HEAT for this because a heat gun WILL damage the covering.
Make sure the end is held in place BUT DON'T GLUE. This will be done after trimming the aircraft.
Step 53
Heat shrink tube
Push rod end
Elevator control horn
Heat shrink tube
Push rod end
Rudder control horn
F13
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Cut a piece of covering film about 8mm wider than the cockpit roof. Cover the cockpit roof overlapping the joints with the film.
Step 54
Step 57
With the model upside down, locate the wing stays, ("SA + SB" step 35).
These MUST be fitted the correct way around, with the longer arm "SB" to the rear of the plane.
Fit the joined end into the slot in the fuselage side and "SB" into the rear pocket in "W4/W4a". Glue the stay in place at these two points ONLY. (see photo).
Now bend the wing slightly to engage the end of "SA" into its' pocket in "W4/W4a". Glue this into place.
When you view the wing end on, it will be twisted with its' front edge lower at the tip. This is called "washout" and enables the plane to fly slower without stalling.
Fit the stay on the other wing in the same way.
Step 55
Take a wing and carefully slide it along the wing spar until it meets the fuselage side. The spar fits through the slots in "W2" and "W3".
When a good fit is achieved glue all areas shown.
Repeat with other wing.
Step 56
Glue along this joint
Glue along length of spar.
Glue spar to ribs
Overlap this joint with film
SBSAGlue
Glue
Manipulate wing to engage here, then glue into place
SB
SA
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Fit the wheels onto the wire and then shrink another short length of tube outside the wheel. Ensure that the wheels turn freely, then trim off the excess wire.
Step 58
Slit the covering (if not previously done) from over the undercarriage slot and insert the undercarriage wire.
Then fit "LG1" (Sheet 6), into the slot
...........
.... and push it right in so that
the it grips the undercarraige wire fully.
Ensure that the undercarriage is central.
Apply glue to the places shown to secure the undercarriage into position.
Carefully bend the wire if necessary to get the plane level when on its' wheels.
Step 59
Locate the undercarriage wire. Cut 2 short lengths, (about 3mm long) of heat shrink tube and shrink them onto the wire as shown.
Step 60
Short length of tube 2nd piece of heat shrink tube
Trim the wire here
Slit the covering
Push "LG1" into the slot
Glue
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Fit the tail wheel, "TS" (sheet 6) and glue into place making sure its at 90 degrees to the fuselage.
Step 61
Step 63
Locate the acetate sheet windscreen and fit it into the slots in the fuselage side. Trim it to size if necessary and then glue into place.
Take the motor and gearbox and cut off the 4 spikes from the holder as shown.
Remove the covering from the tail wheel slot on the underside as shown.
Step 62
Remove covering
Glue
Slot
Glue Cut off 4 spikes
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Feed the motor power wires through the nose and into the receiver bay. Insert the motor and gearbox into the slots in the nose cone as shown with the larger gear for the
propeller uppermost ..........
Step 64
........ then push it fully into the nose. The large
gear should be just inside the nose cone.
The motor is held in place by friction alone, if however you find the motor isn't held tight enough, it may be glued in place. Hot glue or any wood glue is fine for this.
DON'T GET GLUE ON ANY OF THE MOVING PARTS.
NOTE The motor and propeller shaft will not be in line with the fuselage. they will be pointing approximately 3 degrees to the right when viewed from above.
This is required to compensate for the rotation of the motor.
Step 65
Attach the propeller as it's easier to do at this stage.
Step 66
UP
Carefully remove a logo from the black vinyl sheet and fix it as shown to the fuselage side.
Repeat on the other side of the fuselage.
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HogNose building instructions
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Step 68
Connect the motor power wires to the "esc" output of the receiver.
There are 2 pins on the motor plug but 3 sockets in the receiver ESC.
The motor plug MUST be fitted into the correct sockets and also the correct way around in order for the motor to work correctly and in the correct rotation.
Fit the plug as shown in the photo.
Attach a piece of "Velcro" to the side of the receiver bay as shown to support the battery.
Power up your transmitter and the receiver and test that the motor is working correctly in the correct direction.
Step 67
Step 69
Velcro
Battery
FRONT
Glue the spinner onto the propeller.
White wire
Black wire
No connection
March 19, 2018
HogNose building instructions
30
Congratulations the plane is complete and ready for flight tests.
The plane is designed for indoor flying. (Can be flown outdoors in flat calm conditions).
Before flying the model, check that the rudder and elevator and in the neutral position. i.e. straight. Check that the centre of gravity is correct by supporting the plane on two fingers resting on the C of G spots on the underside of either wing.
Check that both rudder and elevator and operating in the correct direction. 20 degrees of movement in each direction is usually enough.
As the plane does not have ailerons, you may prefer to set up a mix on your transmitter to make the right stick control both elevation and direction. This is optional.
Test fly the plane and then manually adjust the rudder and elevator positions to give a straight and level flight with "hands free" from the transmitter.
When happy with the flight, apply a spot of glue to the heat shrink tubing holding the rudder and elevator push rod ends to secure them into position.
We hope you enjoy flying the HogNose.
If you have any comments regarding the HogNose or this instruction manual please email us at
:- Info@lasercutplanes.co.uk.
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