Laguna 14-twelve User guide

14|12 Bandsaw 230v

Code: 111782

Distributed by

N.B. Some pictures and diagrams in this manual may have buttons and electrical configurations
which differ slightly from the machine you purchased

Version:

4

Date: 1/

10/25

DIGITAL MANUAL

Contents

Safety Rules 3

Noise emission 6

Specification sheet 6

Receiving your machine 7

Introduction to your machine 7

Parts of the bandsaw 10

Where to locate your machine 14

Unpacking your machine 14

Assembly and set up 15

Testing the bandsaw 23

Using the bandsaw 33

Maintenance and troubleshooting 45

Electrical drawing 51

Exploded view drawings and parts list 52

Warranty 67

Conformity Certificates CE / UKCA 68

2

4

SAFETY RULES

1. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.

2. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES.

Form habit of checking to see that keys and ad-
justing wrenches are removed from tool before
turning it on.

3. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN. Cluttered areas and

benches invite accidents.

4. DON'T USE IN DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT.

Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations,
or expose them to rain. Keep work area well
lighted.

5. KEEP CHILDREN AWAY. All visitors should be

kept safe distance from work area.

6. MAKE WORKSHOP CHILD PROOF with padlocks,

master switches, or by removing starter keys.

7. DON'T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and

safer at the rate for which it was designed.

8. USE RIGHT TOOL. Don't force tool or attachment

to do a job for which it was not designed.

9. USE PROPER EXTENSION CORD. Make sure

your extension cord is in good condition. When
using an extension cord, be sure to use one
heavy enough to carry the current your product
will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop
in line voltage resulting in loss of power and
overheating. Table A (on the next page) shows
the correct size to use depending on cord length

and nameplate ampere rating. If in doubt, use

the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage nu-
mber, the heavier the cord.

10. WEAR PROPER APPAREL. Do not wear loose

clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets, or
other jewelry which may get caught in moving
parts. Nonslip footwear is recommended. Wear
protective hair covering to contain long hair.

11. ALWAYS USE SAFETY GLASSES. Also use face

or dust mask if cutting operation is dusty. Eve-
ryday eyeglasses only have impact resistant
lenses, they are NOT safety glasses.

12. SECURE WORK. Use clamps or a vise to hold

work when practical. It's safer than using your

hand and it frees both hands to operate tool.

13. DON'T OVERREACH. Keep proper footing and

balance at all times.

14. MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE. Keep tools sharp

and clean for best and safest performance. Fol-
low instructions for lubricating and changing ac-
cessories.

15. DISCONNECT TOOLS before servicing; when

changing accessories, such as blades, bits, cut-
ters, and the like.

16. REDUCE THE RISK OF UNINTENTIONAL STA-

TING. Make sure switch is in off position before

plugging in.

17. USE RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES. Consult

the owner's manual for recommended acces-
sories. The use of improper accessories may
cause risk of injury to persons.

18. NEVER STAND ON TOOL. Serious injury could

occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is
unintentionally contacted.

19. CHECK DAMAGED PARTS. Before further use of

the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged
should be carefully checked to determine that
it will operate properly and perform its intended
function - check for alignment of moving parts,
binding of moving parts, breakage of parts,
mounting, and any other conditions that may
affect its operation. A guard or other part that
is damaged should be properly repaired or re-
placed.

20. DIRECTION OF FEED. Feed work into a blade or

cutter against the direction of rotation of the
blade or cutter only.

21. NEVER LEAVE TOOL RUNNING UNATTENDED.

TURN POWER OFF. Don't leave tool until it co-
mes to a complete stop.

Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling and other construction activities contain chemicals
known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals are:

• Lead from lead based paint.

• Crystalline silica from bricks, cement, and other masonry products.

• Arsenic and chromium from chemically treated lumber.

Your risk of exposure varies, depending on how often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure to these
chemicals, work in a well-ventilated area and work with approved safety equipment, such as face or dust masks

that are specically designed to lter out microscopic particles.

3

Location of warning signs

Model

14bx

Power

1~230V 50Hz 9.8A P2=1.9kw S1

Specification

v0=965 m /min SCCR=6k A

Article No. LAGUNA-B-0003

Weight

123kg

Series No.

Year

LAGUNA TOOLS 2072 Alton Parkway. Irvine, CA 92606

www. lagunatools.com

TYPE MBAND14BX220-250-45-UK

1~230V

IEC 60034-1

50Hz

IP54

9.8A

I.CL. B

COSφ 0.97

P2=1.9kw S1

SERIES

1420 /min

3-19mm x 2914-2946mm

5

4

Woodworking band saw

The woodworking band saw is a saw with a long, sharp blade consisting of a continuous band
of toothed metal stretched between two wheels to cut material. They are used principally in
woodworking and lumbering. These bandsaws have two wheels rotating in the same plane,
one of which is powered. The blade itself can come in a variety of sizes and tooth pitches
(teeth per inch, or TPI), which enables the machine to be highly versatile and able to cut a
wide variety of wood materials.

6

5

Noise Emission

Equivalent A-weighted Sound pressure level according to EN ISO 3746: 73.56 dB(A)
Uncertainty, K in decibels: 4.0 dB (A) according to EN ISO 4871
The figure quoted is emission levels and are not necessarily safe
working levels. Whilst there is a correlation between the emission
and exposure levels, this cannot be used reliably to determine
whether or not further precautions are required. Factors that
influence the actual level of exposure of the workforce include
characteristics of the work room, the other sources of noise, etc.
i.e. the number of machines and other adjacent processes.
Also the permissible exposure level can vary from country to
country, This information, however, will enable the user of
the machine to make a better evaluation of the hazard and risk.

Specification Sheet

Motor voltage/hp
Breaker 15 amp
Throat 13 5/8" (346mm)
Table cast iron 16" x 21 1/2" (406.4mm x 546mm)
Table tilt - 7 degrees + 45 degrees
Miter slot 3/8" x 3/4" (9.525mm x 19.05mm)
Table height 38" (965mm)
Fly wheel Cast iron
Resaw Capacity 12" (305mm)
Minimum Blade length 114 3/4" (2,914mm)
Maximum blade length 116" (2,946mm)
Maximum blade width 3/4" (19mm)
Minimum blade width 1/8" (3mm)
Guides Laguna ceramic
Height 70 1/4" (1,784mm)
Machine Dimensions (W x D)

Stand Footprint
Machine Dimensions with
mobility kit (W x D)
Stand Footprint with mobility
kit
Weight gross 275 lbs (125 kg)
Weight net 258 lbs (117 kg)
Package size 22 7/8" x 22 7/8" x 55" (581mm x

Mobility kit Optional
Industrial work-light Optional

230V, 1-3/4HP, 50Hz, 1Ph, 8.7A

31 1/2" x 26 7/8" (800mm x 683mm)
25 1/4" x 18 1/8" (642mm x 460mm)
34 3/4"

33 3/16" x 20 1/2" (843mm x 521mm)

581mm x 1397mm)

x 27 1/4" (882mm x 692mm)

9

6

10

Receiving Your Machine

.

It is probable that your machine will be delivered by a third party. Before you unpack
your new machine, you will need to first inspect the packing, invoice and shipping
documents supplied by the driver.

Ensure that there is no visible damage to the packing or the machine. You need to
do this prior to the driver leaving. All damage must be noted on the delivery
documents and signed by you and the delivery driver. You must then contact the
seller within 24 hours.

Introduction to Bandsaws

.

his bandsaw is designed to give you years of safe service. Read this owner’s

T

manual in its entirety before assembly or use.
The bandsaw is generally defined as a saw blade in the form of an endless steel
band that rotates around two or more wheels. This blade is a continuous metal band
with teeth on one side. As the wheels rotate, so does the band, which creates the

7

11

continuous sawing action. Because the direction of the blade is always downward

Optional mobility kit

Stand plates

toward the table, there is little danger (except for special cuts) that the wood will be
thrown back at the operator, which is called a kickback. There is always danger of
kickback when a circular saw is being used.
For safety reasons many woodworkers prefer the bandsaw especially when cutting
small pieces. The unique feature of the bandsaw is that the work piece can be
rotated around the blade creating a curve. It is the tool most often used when curves
have to be cut in wood. Because the bandsaw blade is fairly thin, it can cut thick
stock with a minimum of horsepower. For this reason the bandsaw is often used
when valuable pieces of wood are made into a thin piece of veneer.

What you will receive with the bandsaw.

Optional light

S

tand side plates

8

12

Fence parts and hand wheel

Fence guide bar

Table ratchet handles Fence lock knob Feet & screws T-handle

Fence bar parts and fixings Table Fixings

Note: The mobility kit and light are optional

9

13

2 1 5 6 8

15 16 12 13 4

9 11 3

1. Tension indicator window

10. Rip fence assembly

2. Switch

11. Dust port 4”

3. Motor

12. Quick-release blade tension lever

4. Frame

13. Blade tracking knob

5. Blade tension handle

14. Optional mobility kit

6. Blade tracking window

15. Optional light

7. Cast iron table

16. Blade guide shaft lock knob

8. Blade guide adjustment hand wheel

17.

9. Blade guide

18. Flywheel

Parts of the Bandsaw

18

10 14 7

he bandsaw does not have many parts. The major parts are discussed in this

T
manual. If you are not familiar with the bandsaw, take the time to read this section
and become familiar with the machine.

10

1. Tension indicator/window

Tension indicators are designed to indicate the compression of a spring. As a
rule, the greater the spring compression, the greater the tension on the blade.
The tension scale does not register until the blade is relatively taut and is located
on the inside of the body of the bandsaw. The tension scale is a general
reference and not a rule. The tension indicator is visible with the upper door
closed by looking through the tension indicator window.

2. Switch

The start–stop switch activates the motor when it is pulled out and deactivates the
machine when pressed in. The switch can be deactivated by removing the yellow
safety plug.

3. Motor

The bandsaw is supplied with a 1 3/4 hp, 230V motor. It drives the lower flywheel
through a drive belt.

4. Frame

5. Blade tension handle

6. Blade tracking window

7. Cast iron table

The frame of the bandsaw is a U-shaped frame, which houses all the parts of the
machine. This is the heart of the bandsaw and has to be very rigid, as it takes the
strain of the blade being tensioned.

The blade tension handle moves the blade tension and tilt assembly vertically. The
vertical action compresses a spring that ensures that the blade tens
an

d will not change dramatically as the blade length increases due to the hea

erated by the cutting action.

gen

There is a blade tracking window on the side of the frame that allows the edge of the
upper flywheel to be viewed. This allows the tracking of the blade to be achieved
with the door closed.

The table supports the work piece and can tilt to produce cuts at various angles. It
has a groove to the right-hand side of the blade, which is used
gauge. In the centre there is a table insert which the blade passes through. Should
the blade wander off center, this table insert will protect the blade from damage, as it
is soft and should not damage the blade. The table also supports the adjustable
fence, which is used for parallel cuts. There is a nut and bolt that join both sides of
the table and stops the table from warping. The nut and bolt must always be fitted in
the table and only removed when removing or fitting a blade.

ion is constant

t

to guide the miter

11

14

15

8. Blade guide adjustment hand wheel

The upper blade guides are attached to the blade guide shaft. The shaft is verticall

djustable with a hand wheel. The guides should be adjusted so the guides are ju

a
above the wood being cut. This gives the blade maximum stability and is also the
safest way to operate the bandsaw.

y

st

9. Blade guides

There are two sets of blade guides, one above and one below the table. The
function of the guides is to give the blade stability and ensure that the blade
movement left/right, forward/back is kept to a minimum. The guides above the table
are fitted to a shaft that has vertical adjustment. The upper guides are adjustable s

at the guides are held just above the job being cut. This gives the blade the

th
maximum amount of stability and also keeps the amount of blade that is exposed to
a minimum. The guides have ceramic inserts that can be adjusted for almost zer
clearance.

10. Rip fence assembly

The rip fence assembly consists of a guide rail, cast knuckle, fence attachment

sting, rule and a high-low fence. The guide rail is attached to the table side. It

ca
guides the fence assembly across the table. The cast knuckle slides on the guide
rail and is lockable in any position to suit the width of cut. The fence attachmen
casting is attac
the fence to be adjusted for drift. The fence is attached to the fence attachmen

sting with two studded knobs that allow the fence to be adjusted laterally across

ca
the table to suit the job being cut. The fence can be fitted in the low 1/2" or high 5
1/2" position.
There is a rule that is fitted to the side of the table and can be used as a quick guide
on the distance that the fence is from the blade
Note. The rule will have to be adjusted each time the fence is adjusted for drift, as
this will change the distance the fence is from the blade.

bly.

hed to the cast knuckle with three screws that when loosened allow

.

o

o

t

t

11. Dust port 4

The bandsaw produces a lot of sawdust, so extraction is very important. This i

chieved by connecting a 4" dust extraction hose to the dust ports located at the

a
side of the machine with a minimum capacity of 1,000 CFM. The stronger the
suction from the dust collector, the better for you and the machine.

12. Quick-release blade tension lever

There is a quick-release tension lever at the back of the bandsaw. The lever is a
convenient way of quickly releasing the tension on the blade and speeds up blade
change dramatically.

13. Blade-tracking knob

he blade-tracking knob is located at the back of the bandsaw and is used to adju

T

e blade tracking. The kno

th

"

b must be locked once the adjustment is completed.

s

st

12

14. Optional mobility kit

The optional mobility kit is fitted to the stand and consists of two fixed wheels at the
back of the bandsaw and a swiveling wheel at the front of the band saw. The swivel
wheel is activated and deactivated with a foot lever.
With the swivel wheel deactivated, the bandsaw sits on two feet.

15. Optional light

The optional light is fitted with four screws through pre-drilled holes at the top of the
bandsaw.

16. Blade guide shaft lock knob

The upper blade guide is fixed to the blade guide shaft, which is vertically
adjustable. Once the guides have been adjusted vertically, the shaft is locked in
position with the lock knob.

17.

18. Flywheel

T

he blade is suspended over two wheels that are covered with rubber called a tire
The tire cushions the blade and protects the teeth from coming in contact with the
metal of the flywheel. The lower wheel is the drive wheel and is attached to the
m

otor with a rubber drive belt. The lower flywheel powers the blade and pulls the
blade down through the work piece. The top wheel has two functions. One function
is to balance or track the blade on the wheels, and the second one is to tension the
blade. Both functions are adjustable.

aft lock knob.

sh

.

.

Guards

When running, the blade can be very dangerous, and the amount of blade that i
exposed must be kept to a minimum. The machine is supplied with a number of
guards, all of which MUST
There is a guard that is attached to the lower door and is adjustable vertically once
the door is closed. There is a guard on the guide vertical adjustment shaft

Tilt and tension mechanism

T

he upper wheel is attached to the tilt and tension mechanism. This mechanism
adjusts the wheel so that the bandsaw blade can be adjusted for tracking. This i
a

chieved by a screwed handle at the back of the machine that pushes on the
mechanism and adjusts the axis of the wheel so that it runs true with the lower
wheel. The second function is to tension the blade, which is achieved by adjusting
the upper flywheel vertically. A handle is located below upper flywheel and, when

be installed and used while the machine is running.

.

s

s

16

13

17

rotated, will move the wheel up or down. The machine has a quick-acting blade

Model

14-twelve

v0=965 m /min SCCR=6k A

Article No. LAGUNA-B-0002

Weight

117kg

LAGUNA TOOLS 2072 Alton Parkway. Irvine, CA 92606

www. lagunatools.com

release mechanism that is located at the back of the machine and will remove the
tension from the blade to speed the removal and fitting of blades. The mechanism
has a spring, which helps to keep the tension constant as the blade expands and
contracts with the heat generated by the
cutting action.

Electrical connection

The bandsaw is provided with a cable and
plug.

Identification

ere is a plate at the back of the machine

Th
listing all the manufacturing data, including
the serial number, model and blade

Specification

Series No. Year

length.

Where to Locate Your Bandsaw

Before you remove your bandsaw from the pallet, select the area where you will use
your machine. There are no hard-and-fast rules for its location, but below are a few

guidelines.

1. There should be an area at the front and back of the machine suitable for the
length of wood that you will
t

his may not be important

be cutting. If you intend to use your saw for scrollwork,

but should be considered at this stage.

2. Adequate lighting. The better the lighting, the more accurate and safely you will

krow ot elba eb

. Sol

3

id floor. You should select a solid, flat floor, preferably concrete or something

similar.

4. C

lose to power source and dust collection.

Power

1~230V 50Hz 8.7A P2=1.3kw S1

3-19mm x 2914-2946mm

Unpacking Your Machine

.

To unpack your machine, you will need tin snips, knife and a wrenc

Note: The machine is heavy, and if you have any doubt about the described
procedure, seek professional assistance. Do not attempt any procedure that you feel
is unsafe or that you do not have the physical capability of achieving.

Using the tin snips, cut the banding that is securing the machine to the pallet (if
fitted).

WARNING: EXTREME CAUTION MUST BE USED BECAUSE THE BANDING
WILL SPRING AND COULD CAUSE INJURY.

Your bandsaw will be shipped in custom packaging consisting of a heavy-duty
cardboard box and Styrofoam internal packaging.

1. Open the cardboard box and remove the loose parts and top Styrofoam.

h.

14

18

2. Lift the bandsaw out of the packaging. You will need two or more people, as the

Fixing bolts

bandsaw is hea

3.

Lift the bottom Styrofoam out and remove the parts that are packaged under the
bandsaw and packaging.

vy.

Assembly and Set Up

Assembling the bandsaw stand

tand viewed from inside

S

The stand consists of two sets of panels.
Two side panels and two back/front
panels.

1. Assemble the panels with the fixings
supplied.
Turn the assemble upside down and

2.

fit the feet one per corner and tighten
the lock nuts.

te. If you have purchased the optional

No

mobility kit,
(detailed below).

Note. If a mobility kit is being fitted, only two feet will be required, as the
back wheels are used to stabilize the bandsaw.

it should be fitted now

Feet

15

19

Optional mobility kit

Support bracket fixing screw

fitted

Assembling the mobility kit to the stand

Front mobility wheel with spring

The mobility kit consists of a front swivel wheel and two wheels at the back of the
bandsaw.

1. Fit the support bracket
This will hold the bracket in position.

Mobility front wheel screwed onto the

shaft

(item 20) to the inside of the stand with the one top screw.

16

20

2. Fit the front swivel wheel on the stand as shown by bolting in position through the

Fixing screws No leveling feet fitted

Back mobility wheel assembly

stand onto the support bracket. Do not fully tighten the screws, as the height of the
wheel will have to be adjusted to suit the stand.

3. Fit the spring onto the shaft and then screw the wheel onto the shaft

5. Fit the back mobility wheel bracket level with the base of the stand as shown.

Note. Do not fit the two leveling feet to the back of the stand.

6. Turn the stand the correct way up so

that it sits on the wheels and the leveling feet.

17

21

Bandsaw raised off the ground

Motor supported

Fitting the stand to the bandsaw (shown with opitional mobility kit).

You will probably find that it is easier to fit the stand to the bandsaw with it in the
horizontal position and then lifting it to the vertical position as shown in the above
photographs. If you lay your bandsaw down as shown, it must be a minimum of 8"
off the ground. The motor must be supported, or the bandsaw will tip over.
Other people find it easer to lift the bandsaw onto the assembled stand.
Regardless of the option that you choose, you will need more than one person to
complete the assembly. The machine is heavy, and if you have any doubt about the
described procedure, seek professional assistance. Do not attempt any procedure

18

22

that you feel is unsafe or that you do not have the physical capability of achieving,

Table tilt hole

Tilt blanking disc

as the bandsaw is heavy.
You will probably find it easier to assemble the stand to the bandsaw prior to fitting
the other part (table, etc.), as it is lighter.
With the stand aligned to the bandsaw, fit the fixing screws and fully tighten.

Fitting the table to the bandsaw

lt stop bolt

Trunion clamp stud

is possible to fit the table to the bandsaw with one person but far easier if you

It
have two people, one to lift the table and one to guide the trunion clamp studs.

Ti

Tilt blanking disc

Ti

lt stop bolt

The table has a reference stop bolt that is used to quickly align the table after tilting.
The stop bolt hits the tilt-blanking disc when it is positioned over the table tilt hole.
When the tilt blanking disc is moved away from the hole, it allows the tilt stop bolt to
pass through the table tilt hole, and the table can be moved to the maximum amount
of tilt (7 degrees).

19

23

Table mounted to the bandsaw

Trunion clamp stud

Ratchet handle

Allen key

Vertical shaft adjustment handle.

With the table fitted to the trunions,
assemble the two ratchet handles.
Adjusting the table for square to the
blade is covered latter in the manual.

Fitting the guide vertical shaft
adjustment handle

Loosen the clamping screw so that the
handle can slide on the shaft.
Align the screw with the flat on the shaft
and fully tighten the screw.

20

24

Table with rule mounted

Spacer

Fence bar

Fence support

Fence in low position

Lock knob

Rule adjustment slot

Fitting the table rule

Table rule with fixings

A

ttach the rule to the table with the fixings supplied.
Do not fully tighten the bolts, as the position of the
rule will have to be adjusted to suit the blade, which
will be detailed latter in the manual.

Fitting the fence

Fence support

Fe

nce clamped in low position

Fence support lock knob

21

25

1. Fit the fence bar to the table with the screws

Fence in high position

Allen key

Support Allen screw

Table insert

d spacers supplier

an

No

te. The distance between the fixing holes and

the end of the bar is different, and the end that
has the longest distance must be at the back o

e bandsaw (closest to the column).

th

2. Slide the fence support onto the fence bar and

t the fence support clamp screw

fi

3.

Slide the fence onto the clamping strip.

4. Lift the fence just clear of the table and secure

in position with the clamping screw

The fence support and the fence are held off
the table with a nylon-support Allen screw.
This screw ensures that the fence and the
fence support do not damage the table. The
screw is adjustable to compensate for ware.
Note. The fence clamp screw is shown
r

emoved.

Note. The fence bar has counter bored
holes on one side. The fixing screw heads

must fit into the counter bores to allow the
fence to slide the complete length of the bar.

s.

.

s.

f

Fitting the table insert

The machine is supplied with a removable
table insert that is held in position with a
screw. The table insert is removed when
blades are removed or fitted to the machine. The
insert is made of soft aluminium so that if the
blade wanders and contacts the insert, there is
less chance of damaging the blade. Adjusting
screws are provided to adjust the insert vertically
level with the table. The insert comes factory set,
but should adjustment become necessary, place
the insert in the table with the screw fitted. Place a
straight edge across the table and insert and
adjust the screws so that the table insert is level
with the top of the table.

22

26

Fitting the optional light

Fixing screws and cable clips

Light fitted in

position

Suggested cable route

The light is fitted to the top of the bandsaw as shown. The light is supplied with a
plug. The cable must be held in position with the clips provided and positioned so
that the cable is safe and will not in any way come close to the blade or cabinet
door. Below is the suggested cable route. Use the sticky cable clamps to secure
the cable along the top of the bandsaw. Ensure that the cable is not over the
vertical shaft hole, as it could be damaged when the shaft exits the hole.

Testing the Bandsaw

Before starting the machine

Read and understand the instruction manual before operating the saw.

1. If you are still not thoroughly familiar with the operation of the bandsaw, get

advice from a qualified person.

2. Make sure the machine is properly grounded and that the wiring codes are

followed.

3. Do not operate the bandsaw while under the influence of drugs, alcohol or

medicine or if tired.

4. Always wear eye protection, safety glasses or a safety shield, and hearing protection.

23

27

Motor data plate

Safety plug

switch

5. Wear a dust mask; long-term exposure to the fine dust created by the bandsaw is

not healthy.

6. Remove your tie, rings, watch and all jewelry. Roll up your sleeves; you do not
want anything to get caught in the saw.

7. Make sure that the guards are in place and use them at all times. The guards

protect you from coming in contact with the blade.

8. Make sure that the saw blade teeth point downward toward the table.

9. Adjust the upper blade guard so that it is just clearing the material being cut.

10. Make sure that the blade has been properly tensioned and tracked.

11. Stop the machine before removing the scrap piece from the table.

12. Always keep your hands and fingers away from the blade.

13. Make sure that you use the proper size and type of blade.

14. Hold the work piece firmly against the table. Do not attempt to saw stock that

does not have a flat surface facing down, unless a suitable support is used.

15. Use a push stick at t
the cut is complete and the blade is exposed. Push sticks are commercially
available.

16. Hold the wood firmly and feed it into the blade at a moderate speed.

17. Turn off the machine if you have to back the material out of an uncompleted or

jammed cut.

he end of a cut. This is the most dangerous time because

Connecting the bandsaw to the electricity supply

Electrical plug and cable

The bandsaw is supplied pre-wired with a
220V plug. It is recommended that the
bandsaw is connected to a 15 amp breaker.
The start/stop switch activates the motor
when it is pulled out and deactivates the
machine when pressed in. The switch can
be deactivated by removing the yellow

safety plug.

1. Close the doors.

2. Check that the red safety switch is in the

fully in position (Bandsaw switched off).

Start/stop

Start/stop with

safety removed

24

28

3. Check that the machine is clear of all tools and other loose objects.

4. Check that all the adjusting and locking handles are tight.

5. Check that there is no blade fitted; it is far safer to test the machine without a

blade fitted.

6. Start the bandsaw by pulling the red start/stop button out.

7. The lower flywheel is now turning.

8. Now is the time to check that the safety switch is functioning correctly before you

fit a blade. Never complete the followi
injury.

9. With the machine running (no blade fitted), operate the red stop/start switch by
pressing toward the machine. The motor should have the power removed and
slowed down.

10. If the switches fail to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has
been corrected.

11. Remove the Safety Plug from the switch whenever the tool is turned “OFF” and keep
Safety Plug out of the reach of unauthorized person or children.

ng tests with a blade fitted, as it could cause

Should the bandsaw fail the test, it must not be used until

rectified.

the fault has been

25

29

Clamp screw

Table split clamp screw

Table split clamp slot

Plastic blanking block

Blade in table split

Fitting a blade to the bandsaw

A lot of people do not like to change the blades and go to great lengths to avoid
doing it. To use the bandsaw to its greatest advantage, you will have to use the
appropriate blade and track it quickly. This is a habit that can be easily developed. If
you use a step-by-step method of tracking and tensioning, the procedure should
only take a minute or two. Be careful when using blades, especially wide ones.

Always use gloves and safety glasses.

.

Throat plate

Disconnect the power from the bandsaw

1. Remove the throat plate by removing the clamp

screw.

2. Remove the table split clamp ratchet handle.

3. Remove the plastic blanking plate.

4. Adjust the side guide and back guide out as far

as they will go (both upper and lower guides). This
will ensure that they do not interfere with the blade
while you are fitting, tracking and tensioning the
blade.

5. Uncoil the blade. Remember to use gloves and

safety glasses. The blade may have dirt or oil on it,
so use a clean rag to clea
rearwards so that the cloth does not hook on the teeth

6. Inspect the teeth and the general condition of the blade. If the teeth are pointing in
the wrong direction when you hold the blade up to the machine, you will have to turn

it inside out. To do this, hold the blade with both
hands and rotate.

7. Slide the blade through the table split.

8. Open the blade guard door. Slide the blade

over the top flywheel and feed through the slot
at the side of the vertical column. Then feed the
blade into the blade guard slot and close the
blade guard door.

n the blade by pulling

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30

9. Deactivate the quick action blade tension lever and rotate the blade tension wheel

Lock knob

Tracking knob

Blade guard door

Blade in column slot

Blade tension wheel

tension lever (activated)

so that the blade can fit over the lower flywheel.

10. Activate the quick action blade tension lever.

11. Apply light tension to the blade with the

blade tension wheel.

Tracking the blade
Tracking the position of the blade on
the wheels

Tracking large blades. There has been a lot of

discussion on the position that the blade should
be on the wheels. One group of people
recommends that with large blades you should
track the blade so that the teeth hang just over
the front edge of the rubber. The second group
recommends that all blades, regardless of their
size, should run in the center of the wheel. The
advantage of running the large blades with the
teeth not contacting the rubber of the wheel is

t they cannot damage the tire. The disadvantage

tha
is that the wheel is crowned and the blade is not
tensioned in the center of the band, which gives the
blade a tendency to wobble or flutter. The advantage
of running large blades on the center of the wheels is
that they are tensioned in the center of the band and
have fewer tendencies to wobble and flutter. The
disadvantage is that blades with a large set on the
teeth have a tendency to damage the rubber of the

tire. This does n

ot have a great effect on the
performance of the bandsaw, as all blades are
running on the center section of the tire, which is not
affected. We recommend that you balance all blades
on the center of the wheels for optimum performance

Quick action blade

and a smoother cut.

N.B. When tracking a blade the wheels will
be stiff to turn, this is normal, the drive belt
can be released to aid the turning of the
wheels if needed.

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31

1. To track the blade start rotating the wheels by hand in the normal direction. As

window

you do this, watch the blade to determine where the blade
wants to track. If the blade is tracking too far forward or
backward, make small adjustments with the tracking
adjustment knob located at the back of the bandsaw while
still rotating the wheel. Once the blade is tracking in the
correct position, fully tension the blade and re-track. Lock
the tracking adjustment handle.

Note.

2. Refit the plastic blanking block.

Note: The blade must be fully tensioned for final tracking.
Note: Never track the blade with the saw running.

Note. There is a window on the side of the bandsaw that

allows the blade on the upper flywheel to be viewed. This will assist while tracking.

Tensioning the blade

There are a lot of differing points of view on
how to tension a blade and if you should buy a
blade tension gauge. Be

blade tension gauge, note the following points:
Most blade tension gauges are fitted to the
blade and measure the amount the blade
stretches when you tension it. Each blade
manufacturer uses a different type of steel
with different tensile strength. This means that
each type of steel has a different rate of
stretch. For example, if you buy a tension
gauge from one blade manufacturer, it is designed for use on their blades, or range
of blades, and will not necessar
another manufacturer’s blades because their blades stretch at a different rate. In
reality, there is nothing quite as quick or as accurate as experience.
Your machine is fitted with a blade tension indicator, which measures the deflection
of the tension spring on the upper flywheel. We recommend that you use it only as a

general guide and use one of the following tensioning procedures to tension the

blade.

Tensioning the blade is covered later in the manual.

Blade tracking

fore you purchase a

Blade tension indicator

ily give you accurate readings in lbs/square inch on

Method 1

Looking at the top wheel, place your finger at the 9 o'clock position. Move your
finger down 6", and using moderate pressure with your thumb, press on the flat of
the blade. You should get 3/16" to 1/4" of deflection.
Refit all the guards and close the doors. Replace the table insert and check that t
blade moves f

are removed from the machine.

reely through the table insert. Check that all wrenches and loose parts

28

he

32

Plug the machine into the power. Turn the machine on for a second and switch off.
Watch how the blade runs. If the blade tracks well, then run the machine at full
power. If the blade tracking needs adjustment, repeat adjustment.

Method 2

Tension the blade as described in method 1.
Close all the doors and ensure that all the guards are fitted.
Start the band saw and look at the blade from the front of the machine. Start to
detension the blade very slowly until the blade starts to flutter (wobble from side to
side). Then start to tension the blade until the blade stops fluttering and is running
true. Increase the tension on the blade by one complete turn on the tension handle.
You may find that each size and type of blade will need more or less additional
tension. For example, a 1/16" blade will need less additional tension than a 3/4"
blade. Again, experience is the key, and with a little practice it will become second

nature.

The key to all tensioning is to get the blade to cut straight and true with the minimum
amount of tension. The less tension that you put on the blade, the longer the blade
and the machine will last.
Note. The upper flywheel has a spring that is used to keep a constant pressure on
the blade during use. As the blade cuts, heat is generated, which causes the blade
length to expand. The spring compensates for the change in length, and you must
never bottom out the spring while
Note. If you are not using the bandsaw for extended periods of time (overnight),
remove the tension on the blade. This will increase the life of your blade and the
machine. If tension is left on the machine, flats or grooves can be formed in the
rubber of the wheels, which will detract from the performance of the machine and in
extreme cases cause vibration. Removing the tension will greatly enhance the life of
the machine, bearings and tires.
Label the machine “ detensioned.” On the label mark the number of turns that you
detensioned; this way you will know how many turns that you have to put back on to
have your blade correctly tensioned.

Removing the blade from the bandsaw

1. Disconnect the power to the bandsaw.

2. Remove the table split clamp that aligns the two table halves.

3. Remove all the guards.

4. Remove the table insert.

5. Remove the tension on the upper flywheel.

6. Open the doors and remove the blade from the wheels (use gloves and eye

tensioning the blade.

.

protection) and gently slide the blade through the table slot.

29

33

Adjusting the blade guides
Introduction

Welcome to a new era in bandsawing. You have purchased a bandsaw with a
revolutionary blade guide system that is designed to give you years of safe, high­quality bandsawing. Most blade guides are designed to support the blade on the
sides and either above or below the side guides at the back of the blade. This can

allow the blade to twist as pressure from the wood being cut pushes against the
back blade guide. The Laguna Guide eliminates this by supporting the blade above

and below the back blade guide, giving the blade unsurpassed stability. The Laguna
Guide also incorporates patented ceramic as the blade support material. The
advantage of this material is its ability to resist wear, and with care it should give
years of safe service.

Please read the following notes, as they will assist you in getting the
optimum performance from your Laguna guide system.

As with the roller guide systems, the Laguna guide system will damage your
it is not adjusted correctly. The guide blocks must not come in contact with the teeth
of the blade. It is advisable to run the blade by hand with the guide blocks
completely clear of the blade, and only when you are completely sure that the blade
is running consistently in the correct position, you may then adjust the surround

guide blocks as detailed in this manual.

Note on using the Laguna ceramic guide system.

1. When fitting a blade to your bandsaw, adjust the guide blocks as detailed later

and run the blade by hand through the guide blocks for at least two complete
revolutions.

2. The weld on a new blade may not be perfectly aligned, and the misalignment

could hit the ceramic blocks (side and back), causing damage to the blocks or the
blade. If the blade has a bad weld, return it to your blade supplier or side dress and
file the back of the blade as needed.

3. The back blade guide is manufactured from ceramic, so as the blade pushes
against it, friction between the blade and the ceramic occurs. This action generates
a certain amount of sparks. This is normal and will become less with time as the
back of the blade guide smoothes out the back of the blade.

4. The back blade guide will slowly form a small grove as the blade is used (this is
normal). It is recommended that for approximately every 8 hours of use, the guide
be rotated 15 degrees. This will ensure that the groove does not become too deep
and will greatly extend the life of your guide.

5. The 14-12 Laguna guide system can be used with 1/4" to 3/4" blades.

6. The Laguna guide system uses ceramic to support and guide the blade. This has

many advantages (very poor conductor of heat, very resistant to wear, etc.). The
disadvantage is that it is very brittle, so the guides must never be dropped, exposed
to hard knocks, hit with hard objects or used with badly welded blades. Any of the
above actions may cause the ceramic to chip or break and will detract from the
pe

rformance of the Laguna guide system. Any mistreatment of the guide system will

surrender the warranty void.

blade if

30

34

7. The side guide blocks must be tightened before running the machine to avoid

blade

Adjusted guide

jamming the blade and damaging the machine and/or guide blocks.

8. When cutting gummy or green wood, the blade can become covered with resin.

You will find that the surround guide system ceramic blocks remove the resin as the
blade is moved through the guide blocks and keep that part of the blade clean. For
this reason it is recommended that the blocks be adjusted as close to the gullet as
possible, but th
in contact with the blocks, as they will
become damaged. Although the
guide blocks clean the blade, some
woods will still gum the blade and the
resin will have to be removed with
solvent.

Adjust the blade guides

The blade should run through the
center of the rear blade guide, and
the side guides should be parallel
with the blade. If they have been
moved out of adjustment, adjust as
follow

s:

e teeth must not come

Side guide clamp screw

.

Back guide clamp screw

Top upper side guides
parallel adjustment

Loose the side guides and move out as
far as possible. Loosen the guide

ssembly and move back away from

a
the blade.
Move the back blade guide forward so
it just touches the back of the blade
and lock in position.

Loosen the guide clamp screw that
allows the side guides to move forward
and back. Adjust so that the ceramic
blocks are just behind the gullet of the
tooth and are parallel to the blade.
Retighten the clamp screws.
Gently push one side guide so that it
touches the blade and lock it in
position. Bring the other guide toward
the blade so that there is minimal
clearance between the blade and the
guide. You can use a thin piece of
paper to put between the blade and the

Back guide touching the back of the

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35

guide to obtain the correct clearance until you gain experience. Tighten the clamp
screws and remove the paper. Rotate the blade by hand, ensuring that the weld of
the blade does not hit the ceramic blocks, as this will cause damage. If the blade
has a bad weld, dress the blade or return it to your supplier.
Rotate the blade by hand and check that the back of the blade does not hit the blade

guide with a bad weld. If the back of the blade hits the back blade guide at the weld,

then dress the blade or, in excessive cases, return the blade to the supplier.

Lower blade guide

The lower blade guides have two locking screws
that, when released, allow the guide assembly
to be moved forward and back. Rotate the blade

by hand and ensure that it is tracking
consistently in the correct position.
Loosen the side guides and move out from the
blade.
Loosen the two clamp screws that allow th
guide assemb
Adjust it so that the ceramic bl

behind the gullet of the blade and retighten the

clamp screws.

Place a dollar bill or piece of paper of similar

thickness between the guide blocks and the

blade. Gently bring both side guides toward the

blade so that slight pressure is exerted on the

blade. Tighten the clamp screws and remove

the paper. Rotate the blade by hand, ensuring

that the weld of the blade does not hit the
ceramic blocks, as this will cause damage. If
the blade has a bad

return it to your supplier.

Loosen the rear guide clamp screw and push

the guide forward so that it just touches the

back of the blade. Tighten the guide in

position.

Rotate the blade by hand and check to see

that the back of the blade does not hit the

blade guide with a bad weld. If the back of the
blade hits the rear blade guide at the weld,
then dress the blade or, in excessive cases,
return the blade to the supplier.

Note: You will probably find that the guides can be adjusted more easily by tilting

the table to 45 degrees.

Note: Rotate the back guide by approximately 15 degrees after every 8 hours of

use. This will greatly extend the life of the back blade guide, as it will even out the

wear.

ly to move forward and back.

ocks are just

weld, dress the blade or

e

Guide locking sc

Lower blade guide shown
with the table removed
for clarity

Side guides adjusted with
ceramic just behind the
gullet

rews

32

36

Using the Bandsaw

Before you cut any wood, read the safety rules at the front of this

manual.

Using the bandsaw

Although the bandsaw is usually associated with

cutting curves, a variety of straight cuts are easily

made with the saw. In fact, it is often used to rip

wood because it is much safer than a radial arm

saw and also has a smaller saw cut, so it wastes

less wood. This becomes very important when

using expensive wood where waste must be kept

to a minimum. The cut is safer because the force

f the cut is straight down on the table; the work

o

cannot be pulled back or kicked back, which

sometimes happens with table or radial arm

saws. The bandsaw can also cut very thick stock,

which the radial arm, or table saw cannot do. The disadvantage of cutting with the

bandsaw is that the surface finish of the cut is not as good as with the table or radial

arm saw. This can be overcome to a great degree by using the Resaw king blade

from Laguna. The blade has many of advantages such as superior surface finish to

the cut, thin kerf (low wood waste), can be re-sharpened, will cut hard woods and

has a long life.

Ripping

Ripping is a cut made with the grain of the wood. The four most common cuts made

with the grain of the wood are rip, bevel, taper and resaw cuts. There are two

frequently used techniques for making straight bandsaw cuts. One technique is to

use a single point to guide the work. The rationale for using a single point is that the
saw may tend to

allows the operator to compensate for the drift and cut the wood straight. With a little

practice, you will obtain satisfactory results using this method. However, you now

own a real bandsaw, so this method is not recommended. Another method is to use

the rip fence as a guide. Once set up, this takes the guesswork out of cutting,

reduces the stress on the operator and is a must for volume work. Once you have

mastered the setup procedure, you will tend to use the single point method less and

less.

Table adjusted to 45 degrees

cut at a slight angle. This is called drift or lead. The single point

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37

Adjusting the fence

Method1

1. Make a straight pencil line on the edge

of a board.

2. Feed the wood into the blade cutting
next to the pencil mark. If the blade is
drifting, you will have to compensate by
angling the wood to keep the cut straight.

3. Stop the cut in the middle of the wood
and mark (with pencil) the angle on the
table. This is the angle of drift, and you will
have to set the fence to the pencil line.

4. To adjust the fence, loosen the clamp
bolts that attach it to the
Move the fence so that it lines up with the
pencil mark on the table and retighten the clamp screws.

Method 2

1. Set the fence parallel with the blade by loosening the clamp screws that hold it to

the cast bracket. It is not important that it is exact because you will be readjusting
later in the procedure.

2. Using a piece of scrap wood, make a cut while holding the wood against the
fence. Stop the cut in the middle of the wood.

3. Look at the position of the back of the blade within the saw cut. The back of the
blade should be in the center of the slot, but you will probably find that it is closer to
one side.

cast bracket.

4. Slightly loosen the clamp screws and adjust the fence to compensate.
Repeat steps 2, 3 and 4 until the blade is centered.
Note: You may have to do several fine adjustments, and it is better to do several
small adjustments until you become skilled at the procedure. Once you have
mastered the proc
Note: Each blade has a slightly different drift, and each time you change a blade,
you must check and readjust if necessary.

Note: It is worth taking the time to set the fence accurately as it will save
frustration and enhance the performance of your machine.

ess, it should only take a minute to perform the adjustment.

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38

Adjustment slot

Adjusting the table rule

Table rule

There is a rule that is fitted to the side of the table and can be used as a quick guide
on the distance that the fence is from the blade.
Note. The rule will have to be adjusted each time the fence is adjusted for drift, as
this will change the distance the fence is from the blade.
Once the fence has been adjusted for drift:

1. Lock the fence to the rail.

2. Measure the distance from the front of the blade to the fence.

3. Check the distance indicated on the rule.

4. Loosen the clamp bolts and adjust the rule.

5. Tighten the clamp bolts and re check.

Fence position

.

Fence in low position

The aluminum fence can be used in two height positions (high and low). The low
position is handy for cutting thin wood and is used where the fence in the high
position would make it awkward to complete cuts. The fence in the high position is
used for supporting tall work.

Fence in high position

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39

Changing the fence height

1. Loosen the clamp screws that are located on the cast bracket.

2. Slide the aluminum fence off the cast iron bracket.

3. Slide the aluminum fence back onto the bracket using the second slot and

retighten the clamp screws.

Resawing

Resawing is the process of cutting a board in half along its height. The bandsaw is
perhaps the most creative tool in the shop because of its ability to cut thick or thin,
straight or curved. The ability to cut thick stock such as re-sawing, making veneers,
book matching or cutting flitches from small logs has great appeal to the

woodworker. These capabilities greatly enhance the woodworker’s design ability

without the need for additional equipment. When a board is resawed and the two
pieces are lying next to each other, you will note that they are mirror images of each
other. When these two boards are glued together, it is called book-matching.

Note: It is unsafe to cut wood that is unsupported by the table and
should never be attempted. This is especially important to note when
cutting round logs.

Blades introduction

The selection and use of blades is a very extensive subject, and there have been
many books written on it. This section of the manual is intended as a general guide
only.

Selecting a blade

Using the correct blade is important, as it is the first step in attaining good bandsaw
performance. The most frequently asked question is "How do I decide on the correct
blade to use?" The answer is not simple, and we will explore it in this section of the
manual. Firstly, there is NO ideal blade that will do everything. The blades that you
choose will be determined by the type of work that you are doing. Large-tooth wide

blades are selected for fast course cuts, and fine, thin blades are used for intricate

scrollwork. You will find that you will need a large selection of blades if you do a lot
of varied work and fewer blades if you are concentrating on one section of

bandsawing such as re-sawing. Using the wrong blade is the best way to abuse it.
Using a blade for its intended purpose allows for maximum efficiency and is the best
way to prolong its life.

Blade terms set

The amount that the teeth are wider than the thickness of the backing material. The

larger the set, the larger the saw cut and the smaller the radius that can be cut. This

can also be an advantage if you are cutting a job that has a tendency to nip the

blade. The smaller the set, the smaller the saw cut and the larger the radius that can

be cut; the wood waste is less. On tipped blades (Resaw King) there is no set, as

the tip is wider than the backing material.

.

36

40

Thickness

The thicker the blade, the stiffer the blade and the straighter the cut. The

thicker the band, the greater the tendency for the blade to break.

Pitch

The size of the teeth. This is usually quoted in teeth per inch (TPI). The larger the

tooth, the faster the cut because the tooth has a large gullet and has a greater

capacity to transport large amounts of sawdust through the job. The larger the tooth,

the coarser the cut and the poorer the surface finish of the cut. The smaller the

tooth, the slower the cut as the tooth has a small gullet and cannot transport large

amounts of sawdust through the job. The smaller the tooth, the finer the cut and the

better the surface finish of the cut

Material hardness

When choosing the blade with the proper pitch, one factor you should consider is

the hardness of the material that is being cut: the harder the material, the finer the

pitch that is required. For example, exotic hardwoods such as ebony and rosewood

require blades with a finer pitch than American hardwoods such as oak or maple.

Soft wood such as pine will quickly clog the blade, decreasing its ability to cut.

Having a variety of tooth configurations in the same width will most likely give you an

acceptable choice for a particular job. There are certain things that indicate if a

blade has a proper pitch, too fine a pitch or too coarse a pitch. Some are listed
below:

Proper pitch

Blades cut quickly.
A minimum amount of heat is creat

Minimum feeding pressure is required.

Minimum horsepower is required.

The blade makes quality cuts for a long period.

Pitch is too fine

The blade cuts slowly.

There is excessive heat, which causes premature breakage or rapid dulling.

Unnecessarily high feeding pressure is required.
Unnecessarily high horsepower is required
The blade wears excessively.

ed when the blade cuts.

Pitch is too coarse

The blade has a short cutting life.
The teeth wear excessively.
The bandsaw vibrates.

37

41

Width

The dimension from the back of the blade to the front of the teeth. The wider the

blade, the stiffer the blade and the straighter the cut. This is usually called beam

strength. But wide blades cannot cut small radiuses.

The narrower the blade, the more flexible the blade and the greater the tendency the

blade has to wander. These have low-beam strength, but can cut small radiuses.

Blades are available from 1/8" up for your machine.

Kerf

The width of the saw cut. The

the greater the amount of wood the blade has to be removed by the blade and the

greater the horse power that is needed because the blade is doing more work. The

greater the kerf, the larger the amount of wood that is being wasted by the cut.

larger the kerf, the smaller the radius that can be cut,

Hook or Rake

The cutting angle or shape of the tooth. The greater the angle, the more aggressive

the tooth and the faster the cut. But the faster the cut, the faster the tooth wil

and the poorer will be the surface finish the cut will have. Aggressive blades are

suitable for soft woods but will not last when cutting hard woods. The smaller the

angle, the less aggressive the tooth, the slower the cut and the harder must be the

wood that the blade is suitable to cut. Hook teeth have a progressive cutting angle

and take the form of a progressive radius. They are used for fast cutting where finish

is not important. Rake teeth have a flat cutting angle and are used for a fine surface

finish of the cut.

Gullet

.

The area in which the sawdust has to be transported through the wood, the

larger the tooth (pitch), the bigger is the gullet.

Relief

The angle from the tip of the tooth back. The greater the angle, the more

aggressive the tooth but the weaker the tooth.

Beam Strength

This is the ability of the blade to resist bending backwards. The wider the blade, the

stronger the beam strength; therefore, a 1" blade has far greater beam strength than

a 1/8" blade and will cut straighter and is more suitable for resawing.

Blade Selection

As you will have seen from the previous section, there are a great number of

variables. The blade selection that you will make will greatly depend on the type of
work that you intend to do with your machine. If you have experien

l blunt,

ce with the

38

42

bandsaw, you will probably have a good idea of the blades that are suitable for you.

If you lack the experience or are unsure of the type of work you will be doing with

your machine, we recommend that you purchase a selection similar to that listed

below, which is a good general selection and will tackle most jobs. As you gain
experience, you will settle on the blades that suit you.

1. 1/4" 6 TPI. This is a small, aggressive blade that is suitable for tight curves and
fast cutting where a good surface finish of the cut is not important.

2. 1/4" 14 TPI. This is a small, fine blade suitable for reasonably tight cuts where the
surface finish is important but speed of cut is less important.

3. 1/2" 3 TPI. This is a general-purpose blade that can cut large radiuses and short
sections of straight cuts. The cut is fast and the surface finish of the cut is poor.

4. 3/4" 3 TPI. This is a general-purpose blade, which will be used for straight cuts
and is suitable for large radiuses.

Rounding the back of the blade

With most guide systems it is recommended that the back of the blade be rounded
with a stone. As the machine is supplied with Laguna ceramic guides, this is not
imperat

However, if you decide that you want to round the back of the blade, a procedure

follows.

A round blade back creates smooth interaction between the thrust bearing and the
blade. If the blade rotates slightly, there is no sharp blade corner to dig into the
thrust bearing; also, the rounding process smoothes the weld. A blade with a round
back makes tight turns better because the round back has smooth interaction with

saw kerfs.

After the guides have been adjusted and the machine is running, hold the stone

against the back corner of the blade for about a minute. Wear safety glasses when
rounding the blade. Then, do the same thing on the opposite corner. Next, slowly
move the stone to round the back. The more pressure you put on the back, the
faster you will remove the metal. Be careful that the inside of the machine is free of
sawdust because sparks could start a fire. On small blades such as a 1/4" blade, the

pressure on the back of the blade may bring the blade forward off the front of the

wheels. Therefore, be careful not to put too much pressure on the stone. When

doing this, it is also important that the upper guides be positioned right above the
stone.

The blade has teeth and extreme caution must be exercised, as your
hands will be very close to them.

ive because the ceramic will round the back of the blade as it is used.

.

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43

Causes of Blade Breakage

1. Excessive blade thickness in relation to the flywheel diameter.

2. Defective welding.

3. Incorrect tension, particularly if the blade is over tensioned; the tension spring no

longer fulfill s its function.

4. After use it is recommended that you slacken the tension, especially overnight
(placing a visible notice of this operation).

5. Misalignment of the flywheels.

6. Irregularity of flywheel surface, for instance, an accumulation of sawdust w

cutting resinous materials.
You can correct these problems by readjusting the machine, changing the way you
operate it or by changing the blade. Try only one change at a time.

Causes of the blade dulling

1. Poorly set side guides or rear thrust guide.

2. Poor tracking.

3. Wrong blade selection. If the blade is too narrow, it will flex more easily and

decrease the quality of the cut. The blade should also have the correct pitch and

width.

4. The tooth pitch is too fine (too many teeth per inch).

5. Certain woods will dull a steel blade very quickly, especially tropical hardwoods

(teak, koa, etc.). Other woods with a high silicon content will also dull the blade
quickly; even a cut as short as 6” will cause damage to the blade.

6. On certain exotic woods, the ends have been painted. This is done to control the

drying. The paint is very abrasive and will dull the blade is you cut through it. It is
recommended that you cut the painted ends off your wood.

.

hile

.

Using a Radius Chart

Until you become well
acquainted with your saw, it is
best to use the contour (radius)
chart to determine which size
blade to use for a specific
application. Radius charts can
be found in
books, magazine articles and
on blade boxes. They differ
slightly from one another but
are good as rough indicators of
how tightly a curve can be cut
with a particular blade. Each
blade saw and operator is

different, so it is impossible to
make a truly accurate chart. A
blade can cut continuously

many woodworking

.

40

44

without backtracking any curve that has a radius as much as or more than is shown

on the chart. For example: a 3/16" blade will cut a circle with a 5/16" radius or a 5/8"

diameter. To test if a 3/16" blade would work for a particular curve, place a dime

(roughly 5/8") over the pattern. The 3/16" blade can cut a curve bigger than the

dime, but not smaller. You can use everyday items such as coins or a pencil to

determine which blade to use. A quarter i

made

with a 1/4" blade. A dime is the size of the tightest curve that can be cut with a
3/16" blade. A pencil eraser is the size of the tightest turn that you can make with a
1/8" blade. After a while you won't even need an object to size the possible curve of
a blade because you will have become familiar with this process. There are options
to matching the blade to the smallest curve pattern. If there is only one very tight cut,
it may be best to use a turning hole, a relief cut, successive passes or to change the
blade. If you have a lot of cutting to do, you can use a wider blade for the bigger
curves and then switch to a narrower blade for the tighter curves. Changing the
blades can often save cutting and finish time. The chart above is only a rough guide
and is not to scale, but from the information you can construct your own guide.

s the size of the tightest cut that can be

41

45

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Done

How to coil a bandsaw blade

Without a doubt it is more difficult to explain how to coil a bandsaw blade than it is to
actually do it. Nevertheless, below are easy-to-follow instructions on folding a blade.

Method One

While wearing a jacket or long-sleeved shirt and gloves, hold the blade in front of
you in one large loop, with the teeth facing towards you. Place your foot on the

blade, holding it on the ground. Grasp the blade with both hands, with your thumbs
to the outside, at approximately the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions (Step 1).

Slowly twist the top of the blade away from your body (Step 2). Bring your hands
together to form two loops while folding down (Step 3). Continue rotating the blade
until you form three loops.
Note. It is recommended that the blade is placed on material that will not damage

the blade teeth (wood or cardboard). Your foot is there to give stability and
clamp the blade, so do not exert excessive force, or the teeth/band may be

damaged. The photographs are shown without gloves to enable the hand/thumb
position to be shown. Gloves must be worn, as the blade could cause injury.

de.

not to

42

46

Step 4

Done

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Method Two

There is another variation of this that works well with small blades but simply is
not possible for larger bandsaw blades, unless you're very big and strong. This
method works the same as the method above, but rather than holding the blade
with both hands, grasp the blade at the top while holding the bottom of the blade
with your foot (teeth still facing away from you). Grasp the blade with your hand,
twisting your arm such that your elbow is facing away from your bod
Turn the palm of your hand toward your body about 180 degrees and then
continue turning while pushing down on the blade (Steps 2, 3 and 4). The blade
will fold down upon itself into three circles, lying flat on the ground (Done).

y (Step 1).

43

47

Step 3

Step 4

Done

Step 1

Step 2

Method Three

The steering wheel method. Start with the blade in front of you, as if you're
holding a steering wheel with your hands at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions.
Simultaneously twist your left hand up and your right hand down. As the blade
starts to fold, move your hands closer together while tilting your left hand to the
right and your right hand to the left. The blade will fall into three coils. A variation
of this method is to hold the blade as above, but twist both
you're looking at your knuckles and the blade will again fall into three coils.

hands inward, so

44

48

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

.

All tools and machines require regular maintenance, and
the bandsaw is no exception. This section details the
general maintenance and care of your bandsaw. In
general, we recommend that you only use a Teflon­based lubricant on the bandsaw. Regular oil attracts dust
and dirt, and the Teflon tends to dry and has fewer
tendencies to accumulate dirt and sawdust on your
machine.

Cleanliness and Tire Maintenance

One of the major concerns is the cleanliness, in

particular, how clean the tires are. As the saw cuts, some

sawdust lands on the tire of the lower wheel. As the
wheel rotates, the sawdust becomes compressed on the tire. This is especially true
for woods such as pine. The compressed sawdust could have a negative effect,
such as vibration, short blade life and drifting of the blade. A brush contacts the
lower wheel and helps to prevent buildup. You should inspect the tires regularly to
check that buildup is not happening, especially the lower wheel. The tires are made
of rubber and wear just like car tires. They wear in the middle, which causes a
concavity in the tire. The deformation makes it hard to track the blades, and for this
reason it is important to maintain the original shape of the tire. The best way to

clean the tire surface and maintain the original shape is to sand it with sandpaper.
The old tire surface often hardens and glazes over and should be redressed
occasionally. This can be done by sanding the wheel with 100-grit sandpaper. This
will take off a little of the rubber and expose new rubber, which is desirable. Rotate
the wheels by hand with the blade removed.

Guides

.

The ceramic side and back guides should be inspected regularly for cracks and
chips. If they are damaged, they should be replaced as they could damage your
blades and bad guides will detract from the performance of the bandsaw. The

guides should be cleaned regularly and any wood gum or dirt removed. Any
commercially available solvent can be used, and after cleaning they should be

lubricated with Teflon-based lubricant.

.

Tire brush

Drive Belt

The drive belt should last for many years (depending on the usage) but needs to be
inspected regularly for cracks, cuts and general wear. If damage is found, replace
the belt.

45

49

Drive belt adjusting bolt

Replacing the drive belt

Motor drive pulley Drive belt

To replace the belts you will have to remove the lower flywheel.

1. Loosen the motor clamp bolts and move the motor so that the tension

is completely removed from the drive belt.

2. Remove the flywheel shaft nut that clamps the wheel axle (back of the bandsaw).

3. Pull the lower flywheel off the bandsaw. You may have to use a gear puller to

remove the lower wheel.

4. Replace the drive belt.

5. Refit the lower wheel and re-clamp with the flywheel shaft nut.

6. Tension the drive belt and tighten the motor clamping bolts.

Note. It is better to replace the drive belt early than to have a breakdown during

an important job.
Note. Take great care not to damage the bearings when taking the flywheel off

and reassembling.

Table insert

The table insert (throat plate) is made of
aluminium and is designed to reduce
damage to the blade should they come in
contact. If the blade slot becomes too wide
or the insert becomes damaged by the
blade, it should be replaced. The
replacement insert will have to be fitted to
the table hole. The insert is provided with
four jacking screws that can be adjusted
so that the insert is level with the top of the
table.

.

Flywheel shaft nut

Throat plate jacking screw

46

50

Bearings

All bearings are sealed for life and do not require any maintenance. If a bearing
becomes faulty, replace it.

Rust

The bandsaw is made from steel and cast iron. All non-painted surfaces will rust if
n

ot protected. It is recommended that the table be protected by coating with wax if

the machine is not in constant use. All moving non-painted surfaces (guides, rack

and pinion, etc.) should be lubricated/protected with a Teflon-based lubricant.

Blade guide rack and pinion

The top guide when moved ve

Adjustment is provided should that mechanism become misaligned. This is a
tricky operation and should only be attempted if an extreme error has occurred.

Back guide forward/back adjustment

1. Four clamping bolts and two Allen

jacking screws are provided.

2. Slightly loosen the clamping bolts.

3. Tightening the top Allen screw will bring

the guide forward. Loosening the bottom
Allen screw will bring the guide back.

4. Make only very small ad
Tighten the clamping bolts prior to
checking the guide vertical movement.

Note: The machine comes factory-set,
and no adjustment should be required.

rtically tracks the blade and comes factory-set.

Allen jacking screws

justments.

Clamping bolts

Upper and lower wheel center nuts

The center clamp nuts have left hand threads and must not be tightened or adjusted.
The nuts cannot come loose as there natural action is to tighten when the wheel is rotating.

Do not tighten, adjust the nuts or use loc-tite as this will cause damage to the
bearings and cause the bearings to fail.

47

Bandsaw will not start

1. Check that the start switch is being fully pulled out.

2. Check that the yellow safety plug is fully engaged.

3. Check that the electrical power cord is plugged into the power outlet.

4. Check that the electrical supply is on (reset the breaker).

5. Check that you have the correct power.

machine will not stop.

The machine will not stop

This is a very rare occurrence, as the machine is designed to be fail-safe. If it
should occur and you cannot fix the fault, seek professional assistance. The
machine must be disconnected from the power and never run until the fault has
been rectified.

1. Stop switch faulty. Replace the stop switch.

2. Internal breaker faulty. Replace the breaker.

tries to start but will not turn.

machine will not

Motor tries to start but will not turn

1. With the power disconnected from the machine, open the doors and try to turn the

wheel by hand. If the wheel is not turning, check the reason for the jamming. Typical
reasons are: guides too tight, wood jammed in the wheel.

2. Capacitor faulty. Replace the capacitor.

3. Motor faulty. Replace the motor.

m

overheats.

Motor overheats

The motor is designed to ru
terminal overload protector that will shut it down until the motor has cooled down
and then it will reset automatically. If the motor overheats, wait until it has cooled
down and restart. If the motor shuts down constantly, check for the reason. Typical
reasons are dull blade, overfeeding the wood, motor cooling fan clogged or faulty,
motor cooling fins clogged and excessive ambient temperature.

m

overheats

Squeaking noise

1. Check that the motor cooling fan is not contactin

2. Check the bearings.

3. Check the drive belt.

4. Check that the guides are adjusted correctly.

Upper guide shaft is tight or loose

Upper guide shaft is tight or l

1. Clean and lubricate.

2. Adjust rack and pinion.

3. Bent rack. Replace the rack.

.

n very hot, but should it overheat i

g the fan cover.

t has an internal

slows down during a cut.

Blade slows down during a cut

1. Loose drive belt. Re-tension the belt.

2. Dull blade. Replace the blade or have it re-sharpened.

3. Feeding the woo

4. Insufficient set on the teeth (wood nipping the blade). Change blade for a blade

with the correct set.

5. Oil or dirt on the drive belt. Clean or replace the drive belts.

6. Fence not aligned correctly. Align fence.

Blade will not track on flywheels

1. Bad blade. Change the blade.

2. Crown on the wheels worn or damaged tire. Dress the tires.

The blade kicks

Bad blade. Replace the blade.

track on flywheels.

d too fast. Slow down the feed rate.

.

48

51-1

Adjusting the Table Square to the Bandsaw Blade

Note:- The machine is set in the factory and

no adjustment should be required but during
transportation movement may occur.

1. To access the adjustment screws, tilt the
table up to 45 degrees and lock in position.

2. The adjustment is made with the jacking
screws 1 & 3 only. Jack screw 5 and clamp
screws 6 are used for support only.

3. With the table set at 90 degrees place an
engineer's square on the table and check if
the blade is leaning forward o
blade will be parallel and it is easier to check
the blade at the back.

4. Tilt the table up to 45 degrees and lock in
position.

5. Loosen jack screw 5 and clamp screws 6
[only used for support and not adjustment].

r backward. The

6. If the top of the blade is leaning forward [gap at the top of the engineers square], the back of the
table will have to be adjusted up. Slightly loosen set screw 3 and the two hex head screws 2, when
loosening the clamp hex head screws ensure that they are loosened the same amount. Then fully
tighten se
movement of the jack screws makes a large adjustment of the table. Move the table back to 90
degrees, clamp in position and check if the blade is square to the table with the engineers square.
Repeat adjustment if required.

7. If the top of the blade is leaning back [gap at the bottom of the engineers square], the front of the
table will have to be adjusted up. Slightly loosen set screw 1 and the two hex head screws 4, then
fully tighten set
movement of the jack screws makes a large adjustment of the table. Move the table back to 90
degrees, clamp in position and check if the blade is square to the table with the engineers square.
Repeat adjustment if required

8. Once adjustments have been completed, lightly tighten set screw 5 and the two clamp hex head
screws 6. Do not over tighten as this will bend the steel support plate and may affect the adjustment
that you h

t screw 1 and the two hex head screws 4. Only make very small adjustments as a small

screw 3 and the two hex head screws 2. Only make very small adjustments as a small

ave made.

51-2

49

52

The blade makes a clicking noise

Bad weld. Dress the weld or change the blade.

Blade overheats

1. Dull blade. Change the blade or resharpen the blade.

2. Pitch is too small for the depth of cut. Change to a blade with the correct pitch.

3. Guides too tight. Adjust the guides.

4. Wood too hard for the selected blade. Change the blade.

5. Blade too thick for the diameter of the wheels. Change the blade.

Machine vibrates

1. Machine not level on the floor. Re-level the machine ensuring that it has no

movement.

2. Damaged drive belt. Replace the belt.

.

.

.

50

53

Electrical Drawing

Manufacturer:

Laguna Tools, Inc.

Product Name:

Wood Working Bandsaw

Model:

14-twelve

Version:

2022-01

Drawing Originator:

Ting

Checker:

Ting

Authorizes:

Alan Huang

File no.:

LAGUNA-B-0002

51

54

Industrial Work Light: Optional

Exploded View Drawings and Parts List

52

55

Lower Wheel And Motor Assembly

53

56

Stand Assembly

54

57

Table and Fence Assembly

55

58

Upper and Lower Blade Guides Assembly

56

Upper Wheel Assembly

Wheel System: Optional

57

61

LT14-12 [MBAND1412-175-UK] 230 VOLT BANDSAW

Supplier part

number

Laguna part No

Upper Wheel Assembly

PBAND1412-175-1 1412-101 Hex Nut M14x1.5-LH 1

PBAND1412-175-2 1412-102 Ball Bearing 6202LLU 2

PBAND1412-175-3 1412-103 C-Ring R35 2

PBAND1412-175-4 1412-104 PU Tire 1

PBAND1412-175-5 1412-105 Upper Wheel 1

PBAND1412-175-6 1412-106 Upper Wheel Shaft 1

PBAND1412-175-7 1412-107 Upper Wheel Shaft Bracket 1

PBAND1412-175-8 1412-108 Special Nut 1

PBAND1412-175-9 1412-109 Socket Head Cap Screw 3/8-16UNCx5/8" 1

PBAND1412-175-10 1412-110 Support Bracket 1

PBAND1412-175-11 1412-111 Hex Cap Screw M10x1.5x80mm 2

PBAND1412-175-12 1412-112 Flat Washer 3/8" 4

PBAND1412-175-13 1412-113 Upper Wheel Bracket Base 1

PBAND1412-175-14 1412-114 Nylon Inserted Lock Nut M10x1.5 2

PBAND1412-175-15 1412-115 Pointer 1

PBAND1412-175-16 1412-116 Special Bolt 2

PBAND1412-175-17 1412-117 Spring 1

PBAND1412-175-18 1412-118 Bracket 1

PBAND1412-175-19 1412-119 Pin Ø4x20mm 1

PBAND1412-175-20 1412-120 Adjusting Screw 1

PBAND1412-175-21 1412-121 Blade Tension Arm Assembly 1

PBAND1412-175-22 1412-122 Support Block 1

PBAND1412-175-23 1412-123 Plate 1

PBAND1412-175-24 1412-124 Handle 1

PBAND1412-175-25 1412-125 Door Hinge Set 2

PBAND1412-175-25-1 1412-125.1 Door Hinge, Left 2

PBAND1412-175-25-2 1412-125.2 Door Hinge, Right 2

PBAND1412-175-25-3 1412-125.3 Socket Head Cap Screw M5x0.8x35 2

PBAND1412-175-25-4 1412-125.4 Nylon Inserted Lock Nut M5x0.8 2

PBAND1412-175-26 1412-126 Screw M3.5x10 6

PBAND1412-175-27 1412-127 Hex Nut #10-24UNC 4

PBAND1412-175-28 1412-128 Lock Washer #10 4

PBAND1412-175-29 1412-129 Flat Washer #10 4

PBAND1412-175-30 1412-130 Tracking Window 2

Item Description Specification Qty

58

62

PBAND1412-175-31 1412-131 Screw

#10­24UNC×1/2"

MBAND14BX220-250-172-

UK

14BX220-250-172-

UK

Connectors for Junction Boxes
(not shown)

5/16­18UNCx5/8"

PBAND1412-175-32 1412-132 Hex Nut 1/4-20UNC 1

PBAND1412-175-33 1412-133 Door Stud 1

PBAND1412-175-34 1412-134 Tension Gauge 1

2

PBAND1412-175-36-UK 1412-136-UK ON/ OFF Switch 1

PBAND1412-175-37 1412-137 Screw M5x0.8x16mm 2

PBAND1412-175-39 1412-139 Washer, Lock-Int. Tooth M5 4

PBAND1412-175-40 1412-140 Hex Nut M5x0.8 2

PBAND1412-175-41 1412-141 Hex Cap Screw 1/4-20UNCx5/8" 4

PBAND1412-175-42 1412-142 Lock Washer 1/4" 4

PBAND1412-175-43 1412-143 Set Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/8" 2

PBAND1412-175-44 1412-144 Hand wheel 1

PBAND1412-175-45 1412-145 Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/4" 1

PBAND1412-175-46 1412-146 Lock Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-47-UK 1412-147-UK Saw Body 1

PBAND1412-175-48 1412-148 Lock Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-49 1412-149 Adjusting Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-50 1412-150 Tension Label 1

PBAND1412-175-51-UK 1412-151-UK Upper Door 1

PBAND1412-175-52 1412-152 Logo Label 1

PBAND1412-175-53 1412-153 Hinge Cover 1

PBAND1412-175-55 1412-155 Warning Label(not shown) 1

PBAND1412-175-2-13 1412-213 Lock Washer 5/16" 7

PBAND1412-175-2-11 1412-211 Flat Washer 5/16" 6

PBAND1412-175-3-38 1412-338 Hex Nut 5/16-18UNC 6

4

PBAND1412-175-59 1412-159 Carriage Bolt

PBAND1412-175-60 1412-160 Upper Wheel Bracket Left Side 1

PBAND1412-175-61 1412-161 Upper Wheel Bracket Right Side 1

PBAND1412-175-62 1412-162 Screw M3.5x0.6x12mm 4

PBAND1412-175-63 1412-163 Screw M4x0.7x12mm 4

PBAND1412-175-64 1412-164 Plate 3

PBAND1412-175-65 1412-165 Connect Bracket 1

PBAND1412-175-66 1412-166 Screw M4x0.7x12mm 1

PBAND1412-175-67 1412-167 Control Panel 1

PBAND1412-175-68 1412-168 Hex Nut M4x0.7 1

6

59

63

Lower Wheel and Motor Assembly

5/16­18UNCx3/8"

5/16-18UNCx1­1/2"

PBAND1412-175-2-1 1412-101 Hex Nut M14x1.5- LH 1

PBAND1412-175-2-2 1412-102 Ball Bearing 6202LLU 2

PBAND1412-175-2-3 1412-103 C-Ring R35 2

PBAND1412-175-2-4 1412-104 PU Tire

PBAND1412-175-2-5 1412-205 Lower Wheel

PBAND1412-175-2-6 1412-206 Poly-V Belt

PBAND1412-175-2-7 1412-207 Motor Pulley

1

1

1

1

PBAND1412-175-2-8 1412-208 Set Screw

PBAND1412-175-2-9 1412-209 Key 6x6x40mm 1

PBAND1412-175-2-10 1412-210 Hex Cap Screw 3/8-16UNCx5/8" 1

PBAND1412-175-2-11 1412-211 Flat Washer 5/16" 4

PBAND1412-175-2-12 1412-212 Spindle Pulley

PBAND1412-175-2-13 1412-213 Lock Washer 5/16" 3

PBAND1412-175-2-14 1412-214 Socket Head Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-2-15 1412-215 Lower Spindle

PBAND1412-175-2-16 1412-216 Hex Cap Screw M5x0.8x30mm 2

PBAND1412-175-2-17 1412-129 Flat Washer #10 6

PBAND1412-175-2-18 1412-218 Brush

PBAND1412-175-2-19 1412-140 Hex Nut M5x0.8 4

PBAND1412-175-2-20 1412-220 Insert Block

PBAND1412-175-2-21 1412-221 Shelf

PBAND1412-175-2-22 1412-222 Hex Cap Screw M5x0.8x12mm 2

PBAND1412-175-2-23 1412-162 Screw M3.5x0.6x12mm 4

PBAND1412-175-2-24 1412-125 Door Hinge Set

PBAND1412-175-2-24-1 1412-125.1 Door Hinge, Left

PBAND1412-175-2-24-2 1412-125.2 Door Hinge, Right

PBAND1412-175-2-24-3 1412-125.3 Socket Head Cap Screw M5x0.8x35mm 2

PBAND1412-175-2-24-4 1412-125.4 Nylon Inserted Lock Nut M5x0.8 2

PBAND1412-175-2-25-UK 1412-225-UK Lower Door

PBAND1412-175-2-26 1412-226 Lock Knob

PBAND1412-175-2-27-UK 1412-227-UK Lower Blade Guard

PBAND1412-175-2-28 1412-228 Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/4" 1

PBAND1412-175-2-29 1412-229 Plate

PBAND1412-175-2-30 1412-132 Hex Nut 1/4-20UNC 1

PBAND1412-175-2-31 1412-133 Door Stud

PBAND1412-175-2-32 1412-232 Flat Washer 1/4" 1

2

1

3

1

1

1

1

2

2

2

1

2

1

1

1

60

64

PBAND1412-175-2-33 1412-233 Nylon Inserted Lock Nut 1/4-20UNC 1

#10­24UNC×3/8"

PBAND1412-175-2-

45MFC-UK

PBAND1412-175-2-45JB-

UK

VAC 1

3/8-16UNC×1­3/4"

PBAND1412-175-2-34 1412-146 Lock Knob

PBAND1412-175-2-35 1412-145 Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/4" 1

PBAND1412-175-2-36-UK 1412-236-UK Plate

1

1

PBAND1412-175-2-37 1412-237 Screw

PBAND1412-175-2-38-UK 1412-238-UK Strain Relief PG-13.5 2

PBAND1412-175-2-39-UK 1412-239-UK Motor Cord

PBAND1412-175-2-40-UK 1412-240-UK Power Cord

PBAND1412-175-2-41 1412-241 Hex Cap Screw 3/8-16UNCx1" 1

PBAND1412-175-2-42 1412-242 Flat Washer 3/8" 2

PBAND1412-175-2-43 1412-243 Lock Washer 3/8" 5

PBAND1412-175-2-44 1412-244 Hex Nut M14x1.5 1

PBAND1412-175-2-45-UK 1412-245-UK Motor

PBAND1412-175-2-45MF 1412-245MF Motor Fan (not shown)

1412-245MFC-UK Motor Fan Cover (not shown)

1412-245JB-UK Junction Box (not shown)

PBAND1412-175-2-45JBC 1412-245JBC Junction Box Cover (not shown)

PBAND1412-175-2-45MB 1412-245MB Motor Break (not shown)

PBAND1412-175-2-45RR 1412-245RR Rectifier (not shown)

PBAND1412-175-2-45MB 1412-245MB Motor Break (not shown)

PBAND1412-175-2-45RR 1412-245RR Rectifier (not shown)

PBAND1412-175-2-45SC-UK 1412-245SC Start Capacitor (not shown) 100MF 250

PBAND1412-175-2-45RC-UK 1412-245RC Running Capacitor (not shown) 20uF 350VAC 1

PBAND1412-175-2-46 1412-246 Spindle Holder

PBAND1412-175-2-47 1412-247 Adjusting Screw

2

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

4

PBAND1412-175-2-48 1412-248 Hex Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-2-49 1412-249 Flat Washer 3/4" 1

PBAND1412-175-2-50 1412-250 Strain Relief PG-11 1

PBAND1412-175-2-51 1412-163 Screw M4x0.7x12mm 4

PBAND1412-175-2-52 1412-164 Plate

PBAND1412-175-2-53 1412-166 Screw M4x0.7x12mm 1

PBAND1412-175-2-54 1412-254 Plate

PBAND1412-175-2-55 1412-126 Screw M3.5x0.6x10mm 2

PBAND1412-175-2-56 1412-256 Strain Relief PG-9 1

PBAND1412-175-2-57 1412-257 Safety Interlock Switch Cord

61

4

3

1

1

65

PBAND1412-175-2-58 1412-258 Screw M4x0.7x6mm 6

Safety Interlock Switch Pin
Support Bracket

Safety Interlock Switch Support
Bracket

5/16­18UNCx3/4”

PBAND1412-175-2-59 1412-259

PBAND1412-175-2-60 1412-260 Safety Interlock Switch Pin

PBAND1412-175-2-61 1412-261 Screw M4x0.7x30mm 2

PBAND1412-175-2-62 1412-262 Safety Interlock Switch QKS8 1

PBAND1412-175-2-63 1412-263

PBAND1412-175-2-64 1412-168 Hex Nut M4x0.7 1

Table And Fence Assembly

PBAND1412-175-3-1 1412-301 Aluminum Fence 1

PBAND1412-175-3-2 1412-302 Plastic Adjusting Screw 1

PBAND1412-175-3-3 1412-303 Fence Body 1

PBAND1412-175-3-4 1412-304 Lock Knob 2

1

1

1

PBAND1412-175-3-5 1412-305 Socket Head Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-3-6 1412-213 Lock Washer 5/16" 10

PBAND1412-175-3-7 1412-307 Fence Head 1

PBAND1412-175-3-8 1412-308 Lock Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-3-9 1412-309 Lock Bar 1

PBAND1412-175-3-10 1412-310 Set Screw M4x0.7x4mm 4

PBAND1412-175-3-11 1412-311 Table Insert 1

PBAND1412-175-3-12 1412-312 Table 1

PBAND1412-175-3-13 1412-313 Scale 1

PBAND1412-175-3-14 1412-314 Scale Plate 1

PBAND1412-175-3-15 1412-315 Hex Cap Screw M5x0.8x10mm 2

PBAND1412-175-3-16 1412-129 Flat Washer #10 2

PBAND1412-175-3-17 1412-317 Bushing 2

PBAND1412-175-3-18 1412-318 Socket Head Cap Screw 5/16-18UNCx2" 2

PBAND1412-175-3-19 1412-319 Steel Tube 1

PBAND1412-175-3-20 1412-320 Scale 1

PBAND1412-175-3-21 1412-321 Trunnion 2

PBAND1412-175-3-22 1412-322 Hex Cap Screw M10x1.5x50mm 2

PBAND1412-175-3-23 1412-323 Slide Block 2

PBAND1412-175-3-24 1412-324 Flat Washer 1/4" 6

PBAND1412-175-3-25 1412-142 Lock Washer 1/4" 6

PBAND1412-175-3-26 1412-326 Socket Head Cap Screw M6x1.0x16mm 6

PBAND1412-175-3-27 1412-327 Pointer 1

PBAND1412-175-3-28 1412-328 Screw M5x0.8x8mm 1

3

62

66

PBAND1412-175-3-29 1412-329 Bracket 1

5/16-18UNCx1­1/4"

5/16­18UNCx5/8"

5/16-18UNCx1­3/4"

5/16­18UNCx3/8"

5/16-18UNCx1­1/4"

PBAND1412-175-3-30 1412-242 Flat Washer 3/8" 2

PBAND1412-175-3-31 1412-331 Lock Handle 2

PBAND1412-175-3-32 1412-332 Hex Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-3-33 1412-333 Set Screw

PBAND1412-175-3-34 1412-334 Hex Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-3-35 1412-335 Hex Cap Screw 3/8-16UNC×2" 1

PBAND1412-175-3-36 1412-336 Hex Nut 3/8-16UNC 1

PBAND1412-175-3-37 1412-337 Phillips Flat Head Screw M4x0.7x8mm 1

PBAND1412-175-3-38 1412-338 Hex Nut 5/16-18UNC 1

PBAND1412-175-3-39 1412-211 Flat Washer 5/16" 1

PBAND1412-175-3-40 1412-340 Lock Handle 1

Upper And Lower Blade Guides Assembly

PBAND1412-175-4-1 1412-401 Lock Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-4-2 1412-208 Set Screw

PBAND1412-175-4-3 1412-143 Set Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/8" 1

PBAND1412-175-4-4 1412-404 Hand wheel 1

PBAND1412-175-4-5 1412-405 Handle 1

PBAND1412-175-4-6 1412-406 Pointer 1

PBAND1412-175-4-7 1412-407 Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/8" 1

PBAND1412-175-4-8-UK 1412-408-UK Upper Blade Guard 1

PBAND1412-175-4-9 1412-409 Height Scale 1

PBAND1412-175-4-10 1412-410 Magnet 1

PBAND1412-175-4-11 1412-411 Guide Bar Bracket 1

3

2

3

2

PBAND1412-175-4-12 1412-412 Socket Head Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-4-13 1412-413 C-Ring S12 1

PBAND1412-175-4-14 1412-414 Worm 1

PBAND1412-175-4-15 1412-415 E-Ring E8 2

PBAND1412-175-4-16 1412-416 Gear Base 1

PBAND1412-175-4-17 1412-417 Bushing 1

PBAND1412-175-4-18-UK 1412-418-UK Shaft 1

PBAND1412-175-4-19 1412-419 Gear 1

PBAND1412-175-4-20 1412-420 Plate 1

PBAND1412-175-4-21-UK 1412-421-UK Special Screw 4

PBAND1412-175-4-22 1412-422 Guide Bar 1

63

2

67

PBAND1412-175-4-23 1412-423 Socket Head Cap Screw 1/4-20UNCx5/8" 4

3/8-16UNC×1­1/2"

5/16­18UNCx1/2"

PBAND1412-175-4-24 1412-142 Lock Washer 1/4" 2

PBAND1412-175-4-25 1412-425 Lock Knob 4

PBAND1412-175-4-26 1412-426 Ceramic Guide 8

PBAND1412-175-4-27 1412-427 Adjusting Block 4

PBAND1412-175-4-28 1412-428 Fixed Block 2

PBAND1412-175-4-29 1412-429 Lock Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-4-30 1412-430 Ceramic Guide 2

PBAND1412-175-4-31 1412-431 Support Shaft 1

PBAND1412-175-4-32 1412-432 Guide Bracket 1

PBAND1412-175-4-33 1412-433 Lock Handle 1

PBAND1412-175-4-34 1412-434 Support Shaft 1

PBAND1412-175-4-35 1412-435 Lock Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-4-36 1412-436 Socket Head Button Screw 1/4-20UNCx1/2" 2

PBAND1412-175-4-37 1412-437 Base 1

PBAND1412-175-4-38 1412-438 Lock Knob 2

PBAND1412-175-4-39 1412-439 Steel Ball 1

PBAND1412-175-4-40 1412-440 Hex Cap Screw 5/16-18UNCx1" 4

PBAND1412-175-4-41 1412-213 Lock Washer 5/16" 4

PBAND1412-175-4-42 1412-211 Flat Washer 5/16" 4

PBAND1412-175-4-43 1412-443 Guide plate 1

PBAND1412-175-16 1412-116 Special Bolt 2

PBAND1412-175-4-45 1412-445 slide Guard 1

PBAND1412-175-4-46 1412-446 Screw M4x0.7x8mm 2

Stand Assembly

PBAND1412-175-5-1 1412-501 Hex Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-5-2 1412-112 Flat Washer 3/8" 4

PBAND1412-175-5-3 1412-503 Side Panel 2

PBAND1412-175-5-4 1412-504 Front/ Rear Panel 2

PBAND1412-175-5-5 1412-505 Hex Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-5-6 1412-211 Flat Washer 5/16" 8

PBAND1412-175-5-7 1412-507 Socket Head Button Screw 3/8-16UNCx1" 4

PBAND1412-175-5-8 1412-508 Rubber Pad 4

PBAND1412-175-5-9 1412-242 Flat Washer 3/8" 4

Wheel System: Optional

PBAND1412-175-6-1 1412-601 Rod 1

4

8

64

68

PBAND1412-175-6-2 1412-232 Flat Washer 1/4" 6

1/4-20UNCx1­3/4"

5/16­18UNCx1/2"

1

1

1

1

2

1

1

2

1

2

1

2

1

1

1

2

2

1

5/16­18UNCx3/4"

PBAND1412-175-6-3 1412-603 Socket Head Cap Screw

PBAND1412-175-6-4 1412-421 Socket Head Button Screw

PBAND1412-175-6-5 1412-605 Flat Washer 5/16" 11

PBAND1412-175-6-6 1412-606 Nylon Inserted Lock Nut 1/4-20UNC 2

PBAND1412-175-6-7 1412-607 Fixed Plate 1

PBAND1412-175-6-8 1412-608 Wheel Bracket

PBAND1412-175-6-9 1412-609 DU Bearing MB1620DU

PBAND1412-175-6-10 1412-610 Spring

PBAND1412-175-6-11 1412-611 Caster

PBAND1412-175-6-12 1412-612 Spacer

PBAND1412-175-6-13 1412-613 Flat Washer M5

PBAND1412-175-6-14 1412-614 Screw M5x0.8x20mm

PBAND1412-175-6-15 1412-615 Connecting Plate

PBAND1412-175-6-16 1412-616 Foot Pedal

PBAND1412-175-6-17 1412-617 Socket Head Button Screw 1/4-20UNCx3/8"

PBAND1412-175-6-18 1412-618 Plate

PBAND1412-175-6-19 1412-619 Spacer

PBAND1412-175-6-20 1412-620 Support Plate

PBAND1412-175-6-21 1412-621 Support Plate

PBAND1412-175-6-22 1412-622 Rod

PBAND1412-175-6-23 1412-623 Wheel

PBAND1412-175-6-24 1412-624 Retaining Pin R8

PBAND1412-175-6-25 1412-125D Nylon Inserted Lock Nut M5x0.8

PBAND1412-175-6-26 1412-626 Bushing 2

2

2

PBAND1412-175-6-27 1412-627 Socket Head Button Screw

PBAND1412-175-6-28 1412-628 Knob 1

PBAND1412-175-6-29 1412-629 Support Plate 1

PBAND1412-175-6-30 1412-630 Hex Cap Screw M8x1.25x70mm 1

7

Industrial Work Light: Optional

PBAND1412-175-7-1 1412-701 Work Light 1

PBAND1412-175-7-2 1412-702 Screw M4x0.7x20mm 4

PBAND1412-175-7-3 1412-703 Flat Washer M4 4

PBAND1412-175-7-4 1412-704 Hex Nut M4x0.7 4

PBAND1412-175-7-5 1412-705 Cable Clamp(not shown) 3

65

Specifications:

L 47.9 inches

W 26.8 inches

H 70 inches

A 21.5 inches

B 16 inches

C 25.3 inchesDH1

18.1 inches

38 inches

| Footprint

14|12 Bandsaw

Model Number: MBAND1412-175

66

Warranty

New machines and accessories sold by Laguna Tools carry a one-year
warranty effective from the date of shipping.

Laguna Tools guarantees all new machines and accessories sold to be
free of manufacturers’ defective workmanship, parts and materials.
We will repair or replace, without charge, any parts determined by
Laguna Tools, Inc. to be a manufacturer’s defect.

We require that the defective item/part be returned to the Laguna
appointed dealer you purchased from with the complaint. Photo­graphic / videos maybe required when any fault is reported so we can
agree action needed. Any machines returned to Laguna appoint­ed dealer must be returned with packaging in the same manner
in which it was received. If a part or blade is being returned it must
have adequate packaging to ensure no damage is received during
shipping. In the event the item/part is determined to be damaged
due to lack of maintenance, cleaning or misuse/abuse, the customer
will be responsible for the cost to replace the item/part, plus all relat­ed shipping charges. This limited warranty does not apply to natural
disasters, acts of terrorism, normal wear and tear, product failure due
to lack of maintenance or cleaning, damage caused by accident,
neglect, lack of or inadequate dust collection, misuse/abuse or dam­age caused where repair or alterations have been made or attempted
by others. Laguna Tools, Inc. is not responsible for additional tools or
modifications sold or performed (other than from/by Laguna Tools,
Inc.) on any Laguna Tools, Inc. machine.

Warranty maybe voided upon the addition of such described tools
and/or modifications, determined on a case-by-case basis.

Normal user alignment, adjustment, tuning, machine settings and
consumables I.E; blades are not covered by this warranty. It is the
responsibility of the user to understand basic machinery operation,
settings and procedures and to properly maintain the equipment in
accordance with the standards provided by the manufacturer.

The labour required to install replacement parts is the responsibility
of the user. Laguna Tools is not responsible for damage or loss caused
by a freight company or other circumstances not in our control.

All claims for loss or damaged goods must be notified to the author­ised dealer within twenty-four hours, if the machine is received dam­aged it must be signed for damaged.

Only new machines sold to the original owner are covered by this
warranty.

67

68

Declaration of Conformity

Product model: 14-12 Bandsaw

Name and address of the manufacturer: Laguna Tools Inc. 2072 Alton Parkway, Irvine, California
92606, USA.

Name and address of the UK Authorised Representative: Axminster Tool Centre Ltd, Unit 10 Weycroft

Avenue, Axminster, Devon EX13 5PH, United Kingdom.

This declaration of conformity is issued under the sole responsibility of the manufacturer.

Object of the declaration: 14-12 Bandsaw

Laguna Tools Inc.

UK DE

CLARATION OF CONFORMITY

‘original’

The object of the declaration described above is in conformity with the relevant GB legislation:

Supply of Machinery (Safety) Regulations 2008 as amended.
Electromagnetic Compatibility Regulations 2016 as amended.

References to the relevant harmonised standards used or references to the other technical
specifications in relation to which conformity is declared:

EN ISO 12100:2010 Safety of Machinery. General principles for design. Risk assessment and risk reduction.
EN 1807-1-2013 Safety of woodworking machines - Band sawing machines - Part 2: Log sawing machines
EN60204-1:2018 Safety of machinery - Electrical equipment of machines - Part 1: General requirements (IEC 60204­1:2016, modified)
ISO 13849-1:2023 Safety of machinery - Safety-related parts of control systems - Part 1: General principles for design
(ISO 13849-1:2023)
EN 50370-1:2005 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) - Product family standard for machine tools - Part 1: Emission
EN 50370-2:2003 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) - Product family standard for machine tools - Part 2: Immunity
EN 61000-4-2:2009 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) -- Part 4-2: Testing and measurement techniques ­Electrostatic discharge immunity test
EN 61000-4-4:2012 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) - Part 4-4: Testing and measurement techniques - Electrical
fast transient/burst immunity test
IEC 61000-4-6:2023 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) - Part 4-6: Testing and measurement techniques - Immunity
to conducted disturbances, induced by radio-frequency fields

Additional information:

Name and address of person authorised to compile the technical file: Axminster Tool Centre

Ltd, Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue, Axminster, Devon EX13 5PH, United Kingdom

The machinery fulfils all relevant provisions of Supply of Machinery (Safety) Regulations 2008
as amended.

Signed for and behalf of: Axminster Tool Centre Ltd.

(place and date of issue): Axminster, Devon, United Kingdom, 20

(name, function):

Andrew Parkhouse, Supply Chain Director

Signature:

697071

th

June 2024

Distributed by

The packaging is suitable for recycling.
Please dispose of it in a responsible manner.

EU Countries Only

Do not dispose of electric tools together with household waste material.
By law they must be collected and recycled separately.

For after sales help visit

axminstertools.com or call 03332 406406

Axminster Tools, Axminster Devon EX13 5PH