Kuma Stoves SHASTA User Manual

Kuma Stoves, Inc.

Hayden, ID. USA

MODEL:

SHASTA

Fuel-oil stove

User Manual for:

-Installation

-Operation

-Servicing

This manual contains information necessary for the safe installation and
operation of your Kuma model Shasta either in residential or mobile homes.
While most anyone can install their oil stove, it is highly recommended that the
installation be done by a qualified installer familiar with fuel oil stoves and the
essentials of draft, preferably an NFI Certified (National Fireplace Institute)
expert. We recommend contacting local building or fire officials in your area
regarding restrictions and installation inspection requirements. Please read this
entire manual before attempting installation or operation of this appliance.
Improper installation or operation of this oil stove can result in bodily or property
damage.

CONTENTS

Section 1– Stove placement, air requirements, and clearances….. pg. 1-2

2– The flue and flue connections………………………... pg. 2-3

3– Fuel tank installation and fuel line connections……… pg. 3-4

4– Lighting, adjustments to carburetor, and draft
stabilizer adjustments………………………………. pg. 4-7

5– Servicing…………………………………………….. pg. 7-8

6– Trouble-shooting guide……………………………..... pg. 8-9

7– Fireplace installation instructions………….………… pg. 10

8- Warranty………………………………………………pg. 11

SECTION 1

Stove placement, air requirements, and clearances

Try to pick a location that will be somewhat central in the house or room in which you

wish to install the Shasta. Due consideration of the fuel tank location, ease of fuel line
installation, and flue location is wise. You will want to read the fuel tank section to get a better
idea of where to locate the tank as well as the stove. The stove must be placed on hearth that is
non-combustible, having a thickness of 3/8” or greater. A 24”x30” minimum hearth pad area is
recommended. Once a location is established, the stove can be placed on the hearth and
leveled. It is absolutely imperative that your stove is level. There are adjustment bolts under
each corner of the pedestal base should these adjustments be necessary, or if a leg set is used,
there are adjustment bolts on each leg. Place a level on top of the pedestal base both directions
and adjust until level.
This unit has been tested to U.L. 896 and 307A by Omni Test Laboratories and is
approved for installation and use in manufactured homes. There are some special
considerations when installing into a mobile or manufactured home. The flue system must
consist of a 4” diameter CLASS “L”, U.L. 641 type insulated chimney, and either a 4” single or
double-wall stove pipe connector. A CLASS “A” metal chimney or a masonry chimney may be
used, but must have a 4” stainless steel liner. Dura-Vent Pellet Vent (4”) may be used as either
a connector or chimney or both. The manufactured home installation also requires an outside
combustion air source. If outside air is accessed through the floor, a 4” diameter or larger duct
should be installed through the hearth and floor, extending past the insulation barrier on the
underneath side of the home. Make sure there is a rodent screen with a maximum 1/4” x 1/4”
opening placed over the duct opening to prevent rodents from accessing the stove bottom. A
standard outside air (dryer-vent type) kit may be used or an outside air kit (#4OAVK) may be
obtained from your dealer.

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The air duct does not need to connect directly to the stove as the duct may terminate at the
hearth top level. If air is accessed through the wall, remove the air cover at the stove pedestal
back, and install a 4” or larger duct connecting the stove pedestal and the wall. A storm or
dryer type vent with a screen is adequate, or a Kuma #4OAVK kit which includes all parts
necessary to access air through the wall or floor is available from your dealer. If you are not
installing this stove in a mobile home, and outside air is not desired, simply remove the outside
air cover at the pedestal back so ambient room air can enter.
Please note that at certain draft conditions (i.e. high winds) a significant amount of air
may be needed to achieve a proper burn. Consideration of open windows or an air source near
the stove will probably be necessary depending on the “air-tightness” of your home. Again,
outside air to your oil stove is a good idea as it will make the combustion impervious to house
pressure problems. For further help or questions, contact your dealer.

*Please note that these clearances are minimums. It is a good idea to exceed these
clearances unless space is limited. Common sense must prevail.

Minimum Clearances to Combustibles

Sides Back Flue Pipe Corner Top

Standard 10” 1”* 3”** 3” —

Alcove 10” 1”* 3” 3” 18”

Note: Corner clearance applies only when the stove is installed in a room

corner with the stove placed perpendicular to the corner (45 degrees).

Note: On alcove installations, the maximum depth of the alcove is 30”.
Minimum alcove width is 42”.

*1” Clearance from stove back to wall on through-wall installations only. When pass­ ing through the wall, Class “L” or Class “A” chimney must be used along with
proper approved wall thimble. NEVER USE SINGLE WALL PIPE TO PASS
THROUGH A COMBUSTIBLE WALL.
**Clearances to flue pipe are for single-wall connectors. A double-wall connector is
required for mobile home installations.

SECTION 2

The flue and flue connections

Do not connect this unit to a flue servicing another appliance. It is of utmost importance
that the flue be dedicated to the Shasta as the flue is, without a doubt, the most important
component of the system. Good combustion is dependent upon the correct amount of air being
supplied to the burner at all times, which is dependent upon a correct negative flue pressure.

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Draft is caused by the gases inside the flue being hotter and lighter than the air outside, thus the
rising heated gases carry out the products of combustion. Since the flue “sucks” gases up the flue, it
is this suction that draws air into the pedestal area to feed the burn pot with the air needed for an
efficient, blue-flame burn. This will depend on the flue’s ability to provide a consistent negative
pressure. There is no substitute for a warm, efficient chimney/pipe system. If the flue gases cool
too quickly, draft will slow and combustion will not be as efficient. Do not skimp on the flue
system. A good rule of thumb on chimney height is a minimum of 12’ from the stove top to
termination. Location of chimney and other factors may require more or less chimney height.
An insulated chimney is a must in order to maintain the heat inside the chimney for proper
flow of gases. Use a Class “L”, 4” diameter, insulated chimney that has been tested to U.L. 641
when passing through combustibles, or use 4” or 5” diameter Class “A” insulated HT type chimney.
Due consideration must be given to your particular climate zone. Extreme cold ‘attacks’ the
chimney’s ability to maintain an efficient draft. The stove pipe connector may be single-wall black
pipe with tight fitting joints (mobile home connectors must be double-wall). Make sure that all
joints are securely fastened with three sheet metal screws, including the connection at the stove as
well as at the ceiling or chimney connection. The Shasta may also be connected to a masonry
chimney, but it is recommended that it be lined with a 4” stainless steel liner and insulated as well.
Use and install all piping according to the manufacturers listed clearances.
Certain atmospheric conditions such as high winds will cause a change (increase or
decrease) in the negative pressure inside the flue and thus inside the stove. To compensate for this,
your stove has a draft or flue stabilizer which is a barometric damper located at the rear back of
your stove. Under certain geographic or atmospheric conditions, it may be necessary to install a
wind-beater vacuum cap or a wind-directional cap. See your dealer for information. Upon
installation of the stove and after lighting and warm-up, the rear cover must be removed and the
draft stabilizer adjusted. Its purpose is to allow more or less air to travel into the flue to compensate
for a change in the flue draft. Adjustment of the draft stabilizer will be discussed in Section 4.

SECTION 3

Fuel tank installation and fuel line connections

OIL:

Your Kuma model Shasta comes with a carburetor set for an average of a 2.35 cc.

viscosity rating. You should be able to burn either #1 or #2 fuel with adjustments to the
carburetor. Bio-diesel may also be successfully burned in the Oil Classic. Due consideration to
fuel grades should be noted. #1 Fuel oil, K-1, or kerosene will burn much cleaner than #2 fuel
and requires less maintenance. #2 fuel or diesel grades of fuel are fine to burn, however there
are combustibles present in # 2 fuel that become solids when they are burned, thereby requiring
more frequent cleaning of the decoker and burner.
TANK:
The fuel tank should be clean (second-hand tanks not recommended), so a new tank is
advised. Steel tanks require more maintenance such as painting to prevent rust. A polyethylene
tank is preferred as it will never rot or rust, and is basically maintenance-free. A tank with a
larger capacity will require less fillings as well as an opportunity to obtain better pricing for fuel
oil in greater quantities. Avoid placing the tank in direct sunlight. Warm tanks will condense
moisture which will fall to the bottom of your tank where it will need to be drained to prevent
valve damage and/or freezing and stopping oil flow. Also, due consideration should be given to
accessibility to the tank for delivery trucks.
The ideal tank should have two bottom-end outlets: one for fuel supply to the stove, and
one to drain off any water and dirt. To be able to do this, the tank must be installed with a
“fall” of at least 1/4” per foot of tank length. The fuel supply will come from the high end of
the tank and the lower end will be used for draining condensation and impurities. If the tank
has only one outlet, be sure to tip the tank away from the outlet slightly, as described above.
Brick or cement foundation for the tank is advised.

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