Kuma Stoves OIL CLASSIC OC-7, OIL CLASSIC OC-8, OIL CLASSIC OC-10 User Manual

Kuma Stoves

Rathdrum, ID. USA

MODEL:

OIL CLASSIC

(OC-7, OC-8, OC-10)

Fuel-oil stove

Report # 123-S-01-2

Tested and listed by Omni Test Laboratories

User Manual for:

-Installation

-Operation

-Servicing

This manual contains information necessary for the safe installation and operation of
your Kuma Oil Classic either in residential or mobile homes. While most anyone can install
their oil stove, it is recommended that the installation be done by a qualified installer familiar
with fuel oil stoves, preferably an NFI Certified (National Fireplace Institute) expert. We rec­ommend contacting local building or fire officials in your area regarding restrictions and instal­lation inspection requirements. Please read this entire manual before attempting installation or
operation of this appliance. Improper installation or operation of this oil stove can result in
bodily or property damage.

*SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS*

Rev. 2/13

CONTENTS

Section 1– Stove placement, air requirements, and clearances….. pg. 1-2

2– The flue and flue connections………………………… pg. 2-3

3– Fuel tank installation and fuel line connections………. pg. 3-4

4– Lighting, adjustments to carburetor, and draft
stabilizer adjustments………………………………. pg. 4-7

5– Servicing…………………………………………….. pg. 7-8

6– Trouble-shooting guide……………………………..... pg. 8-10

7– Warranty……………………………………………… pg. 10

1

SECTION 1

Stove placement, air requirements, and clearances

Try to pick a location that will be somewhat central in the house or room in which you

wish to install the Oil Classic. Due consideration of the fuel tank location, ease of fuel line in­stallation, and flue location is wise. You will want to read the fuel tank section to get a better
idea of where to locate the tank as well as the stove. The stove must be placed on hearth that is
non-combustible, having a thickness of 3/8” or greater. A 36”x 36” hearth pad area is recom­mended. Once a location is established, the stove can be placed on the hearth and leveled. It is
absolutely imperative that your Oil Classic is level. There are adjustment bolts under each cor­ner of the pedestal base should these adjustments be necessary. Place a level on top of the ped­estal base both directions and adjust until level.
This unit has been tested to U.L. 307A and is approved for installation and use in manu­factured homes. There are some special considerations when installing into a mobile or manu­factured home. For model OC-10 (10” burner), the flue system must consist of a 6” diameter
CLASS “A”, U.L. HT103 type insulated chimney, and a double-wall stove pipe connector. For
models OC-7 and OC-8 (7” and 8” burner), a 4”diameter Class “L” (pellet vent) chimney or
suitable 4” chimney liner is required. Dura-Vent D.V.L. double-wall connector with a Dura­Vent # 8680 double-wall adapter is required or 4” diameter Class “L” vent may be used as a
connector. The manufactured home installation also requires an outside combustion air source.
If outside air is accessed through the floor, a 4” diameter or larger duct should be installed
through the hearth and floor, extending past the insulation barrier on the underneath side of the
home. Make sure there is a rodent screen with a maximum 1/4” x 1/4” opening placed over the
duct opening to prevent rodents from accessing the stove bottom.

The air duct does not need to connect directly to the stove as the duct may terminate at the
hearth top level. If air is accessed through the wall, remove the air cover at the stove pedestal
back, and install a 4” or larger duct connecting the stove pedestal and the wall. A storm or dry­er type vent with a screen is adequate. For your convenience, an outside air kit (part # KA­OUTSIDEAIR) is available through your dealer. If you are not installing this stove in a mobile
home, and outside air is not desired, simply remove the outside air cover at the pedestal back so
ambient room air can enter. Please note that at certain draft conditions (i.e. high winds) a sig­nificant amount of air may be needed to achieve a proper burn. Consideration of open windows
or an air source near the stove will probably be necessary depending on the “air-tightness” of
your home. Again, outside air to your oil stove is a good idea as it will make the combustion
impervious to house pressure problems.

*Please note that these clearances are minimums. It is a good idea to exceed these
clearances unless space is limited. Common sense must prevail.

Minimum Clearances to Combustibles

Sides Back Flue Pipe Corner Top

Standard 8” 6” 9”* 4” —

Alcove 8” 6” 9” 4” 54”

Note: Corner clearance applies only when the stove is installed in a room

corner with the stove placed perpendicular to the corner (45 degrees).

Note: On alcove installations, the maximum depth of the alcove is 30”.

*Clearances to flue pipe are for single-wall connectors. A double-wall
connector is required for mobile home installations.

2

Do not connect this unit to a flue servicing another appliance. It is of utmost importance

that the flue be dedicated to the Oil Classic as the flue is, without a doubt, the most important
component of the system. Good combustion is dependent upon the correct amount of air being
supplied to the burner at all times, which is dependent upon a correct negative flue pressure.
Draft is caused by the gases inside the flue being hotter and lighter than the air outside, thus the
rising heated gases carry out the products of combustion. Since the flue “sucks” gases up the
flue, it is this suction that draws air into the pedestal area to feed the burn pot with the air need­ed for an efficient, blue-flame burn. (continued…)

SECTION 2

The flue and flue connections

3

This will depend on the flue’s ability to provide a consistent negative pressure. There is no sub­stitute for a warm, efficient chimney/pipe system. If the flue gases cool too quickly, draft will
slow and combustion will not be as efficient. Do not skimp on the flue system. A good rule of
thumb on chimney height is a minimum of 12’ from the stove top to termination. Location of
chimney and other factors may require more or less chimney height. In areas of high winds or
draft inversions, a suitable wind-directional or vacuum cap may be needed.
An insulated chimney is a must in order to maintain the heat inside the chimney for
proper flow of gases. For model OC-10, use a class “A”, 6” diameter, all-fuel insulated chim­ney that has been tested to U.L. HT103. For models OC-7 and OC-8, a 4” diameter Class
“L” (pellet vent) chimney is approved. As a general rule, smaller diameter flues are better for
draft and efficiency. The stove pipe connector may be single-wall black pipe with tight fitting
joints (mobile home connectors must be double-wall, see Section 1), and must be securely fas­tened at all joints with 3 sheet metal screws. Fasten connector pipe to the flue collar on the
stove and the ceiling box/wall thimble with screws as well. The Oil Classic may also be con­nected to a masonry chimney, but it is recommended that it be lined with a stainless steel liner
and insulated as well. Use and install all piping according to the manufacturers listed clearanc­es.
Certain atmospheric conditions such as high winds will cause a change (increase) in the
negative pressure inside the flue and thus inside the stove. To compensate for this, your stove
has a draft or flue stabilizer which is a barometric damper located at the rear back of your stove.
Upon installation of the stove and after lighting and warm-up, the rear cover must be removed
and the draft stabilizer adjusted. Its purpose is to allow more or less air to travel into the flue to
compensate for a change in the flue draft. Adjustment of the draft stabilizer will be discussed in
Section 4.

SECTION 3

Fuel tank installation and fuel line connections

Your Kuma Oil Classic comes with a carburetor set for an average of a 2.35 cc. viscosi­ty rating. You should be able to burn either #1 or #2 fuel with adjustments to the carburetor.
Due consideration to fuel grades should be noted. #1 Fuel oil, K-1, or kerosene will burn much
cleaner than #2 fuel and requires less maintenance. #2 fuel or diesel grades of fuel are fine to
burn, however there are combustibles present in # 2 fuel that become solids when they are
burned, thereby requiring more frequent cleaning of the decoker and burner.

TANK:
The fuel tank should be clean (second-hand tanks not recommended), so a new tank is
advised. Steel tanks require more maintenance such as painting to prevent rust. A polyethylene
tank is preferred as it will never rot or rust, and is basically maintenance-free. A tank with a
larger capacity will require less fillings as well as an opportunity to obtain better pricing for fuel
oil in greater quantities. Avoid placing the tank in direct sunlight. Warm tanks will condense
moisture which will fall to the bottom of your tank where it will need to be drained to prevent
valve damage and/or freezing and stopping oil flow. Also, due consideration should be given to
accessibility to the tank for delivery trucks.
The ideal tank should have two bottom-end outlets: one for fuel supply to the stove, and
one to drain off any water and dirt. To be able to do this, the tank must be installed with a
“fall” of at least 1/4” per foot of tank length. The fuel supply will come from the high end of
the tank and the lower end will be used for draining condensation and impurities. If the tank
has only one outlet, be sure to tip the tank away from the outlet slightly, as described above.
Brick or cement foundation for the tank is advised.

OIL: