Kubota F5205 Installation And Owner's Manual

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F5205 HARD SIDED CAB KIT

INSTALLATION & OWNER’S MANUAL

The contents of this envelope are the property of the owner. Be sure to leave with the owner when installation is complete.

Rev. C p. 1 of 21

Cab is supplied with Work Lights and Windshield Wiper.

INSTALLATION & OWNER’S MANUAL

manual p/n 77700-01874 (revised: 4/1/2013)

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WARNING WARNING

ordeath.Never operate vehicle if suspicious of Carbon Monoxide. Inspect exhaust system for leaks monthly. Leaks can result from loose connections, corrosion, cracks or other damage to the exhaust manifold. If leaks are found, repair or replace exhaust system. Do not use vehicle until

ExposuretoCarbonMonoxide canCauseillness,seriousinjury

weather protection. This cab is not applicable, nor should the cab be considered as protection against roll over, collision or other accidents that may result. This cab is NOTa R.O.P.S.cab. Extreme care should be taken when operating and by qualified, experienced operators only.

This cab is designed and manufactured for use only as reasonable

NOTICE

Cabs and accessories add additional weight to the base vehicle. All accessory weights are listed in product brochures. Deduct the accessory’s total weight from the vehicle’s rated capacity and never exceed the vehicle’s rated capacity including driver and passenger

CAB INSTALLATION

BEFORE YOU START

HELPFUL REMINDERS:

A. Refer to parts diagram toward the back of this manual to help identify parts during the assem-

bly process.

B. To assist with the cab installation, leave all bolts loose for later adjustment unless otherwise

specified. C. Read and understand all instructions before beginning. D. Plastic washers have been supplied to provide a weather seal under the

heads of all exterior bolts. The plastic washer should be installed under

each bolt head directly against the outside cab surface. Care should be

taken not to over tighten the fasteners and damage the plastic washer.

Also use metal washers as required. E. Apply a clear silicone sealant to seal any minor gaps that may occur

due to vehicle variations. F. Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross threading.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Set of standard and metric sockets and open end wrenches One 21mm socket with long extension One 3/8” and one 1/2” Drive Ratchet One 3/16” Allen Wrench One large Phillips Head Screwdriver Grease Electric or cordless drill 9/32” and 3/8” drill bits Tape measure Scissors Wire Crimp Tool Electrical tape

Fastener

Steel Washer

Plastic Washer

Cab Surface

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1. DECK SOUND BARRIER

Mounting surface preparation: adhesivebacked sound barrier should be applied to a clean, dry surface at room temperature. Although the mounting surface may appear clean, it is required that the surface be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol or an acetone or ammonia-based cleaner immediately prior to application of the sound barrier material. Allow cleaned surfaces to dry thoroughly. Good surface contact is required to achieve bond. Failure to follow these steps can result in the separation of the sound barrier material from the mounting surfaces. NOTE: paint thinners or products with any oil in them will not work and are detrimental to the proper cleaning of the underside of the fender. NOTE: clean rags are very important. Oily rags will leave residue.

1.1 Remove the ROPS (Roll Over Protection Structure)

structure, the operator seat, the control lever handles, the differential lock, forward - reverse and brake pedals from the mower. Remove the operator deck by removing the two bolts at the back of the deck and the four nuts (2 each side) from the frame supports under the left and right foot wells. Open the hood, lift the deck up off of the front mounting studs, tip the back of the deck up and move to the rear lifting off of the park brake lever and the steering column cover. Reference Kubota mower service manual for a more detailed description.

1.2 Remove the grab handle from the left side by removing the two (2) hex nut/washer combinations (SEMS) from underneath the fender. Discard hardware and handle. See fig. 1.2.

1.3 Position the operator deck upside down on a soft table to prevent scratching. Remove all 10 plastic pine tree clips (5/side) that hold the floor mats in place. Discard these 10 small, short plastic clips. 16 larger, longer plastic pine tree clips are provided in the hardware bag along with 16 fender washers (1/4” I.D.).

1.4 Note: dry fitting the pieces to get a feel for location is suggested before peeling back the protective paper. Place the main piece of sound barrier on a flat table with the adhesive side up. Cut the center rear section of the adhesive backing paper 15” from the rear edge as shown in fig. 1.4.

1.5 Position the main piece of the deck sound barrier in place as shown in fig. 1.5. Lift up one section at a time, peel the adhesive backing paper off and adhere the sound barrier to the deck. DO NOT remove 15” of backing paper of rear center section that was cut in step 1.4.

1.6 Position the left and right pieces of sound barrier as shown in fig. 1.6, peel the adhesive backing paper off and adhere to the deck as shown.

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Fig. 1.2 (grab handle)

cut adhesive back paper 15” from rear edge. (center section only).

rear edge

Fig. 1.4 (modify sound barrier)

Main sound barrier

Fig. 1.5 (main sound barrier)

Left and right sound barrier

Fig. 1.6 (left and right sound barrier)

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1. DECK SOUND BARRIER (cont’d.)

Use of the supplied plastic pine tree clips and fender washers (qty.: 16 of ea.) is strongly advised to help secure the sound material around the bends in the fender and will help prevent the sound material from prematurely coming loose. See figures 1.7.1, 1.7.2, and

1.7.3.

1.7 Before re-installing the floor mats, use the 5 existing

holes per fender side as guides to drill 9/32” diameter holes through the newly installed sound material. Also drill 3 new holes (9/32” diameter) per side as shown in figure 1.7.3. Approximate locations are sufficient as shown. Install 8 plastic pine tree clips per side as shown with the thin head side up top and the fender washers below the deck surface sandwiching the sound material lightly (not shown). Note: no need to over-compress the sound material with the fender washers.

1.8 Reinstall the deck, pedals, ROPS, and operator seat. IMPORTANT: the bolts on the ROPS structure must be torqued properly to meet original equipment safety standards. These four (4) bolts (M14 diameter) are to be torqued to 91-108 ft.-lbs. (124-147 N-m).

DO NOT install the nuts on the front foot well mounting studs that were removed in step 1.1, but retain them for later use. Tuck the slit in the center rear section around the knob and make sure to pull the seat switch wire up through the cutout before securing the deck.

1.9 The small piece of sound barrier from the kit can be stuffed in place under the access door for the transmission filler cap. Do not adhere it to the door. Remove this piece when checking transmission fluid. See figure 1.9.

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Fig. 1.7.1 (loose pine tree clip and fender washer)

Fender would be here

Sound material would be here

Fig. 1.7.2 (assembled pine tree clip and fender washer)

Approximate locations

Fig. 1.9 (transmission filler sound barrier)

Fig. 1.7.3 (view from left front)

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2. VEHICLE PREP.

2.2 Have one 10mm x 1.25 x 20mm long hex head

bolt ready. Remove one of the two large clamping hand knobs from the middle of the upright of the roll bar while holding the “U” shaped bracket in place. See figures 2.2 and 2.2.1. Install the new hex head bolt through the hole in the “U” shaped bracket and tighten in place. Note: washers are not used here. Repeat for opposite side. Discard the hand knobs.

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Fig. 2.2 (clamping hand knobs)

Fig. 2.2.1 (view from front of left side)

3. FRONT MOUNTS

3.1 Install two (2) small rubber mounts in the two

outboard holes in the front mount using 5/16” locknuts and washers as shown in fig. 3.1. Threaded studs pointing down.

3.2 From underneath the vehicle, remove and save the locknuts and washers from the vertical threaded weld studs sticking down through the vehicle floorboards (two per side). On the left side, remove and save the horizontal bolt, washer, and locknut (the rearmost of the two). On the right side, remove and save the horizontal bolt and washer (the rearmost of the two) (note: no locknut on right side).

3.3 Position the front mounts onto the threaded studs. Re-install the horizontal bolts. Note: left side uses a locknut. Right side has a threaded weld plate instead. Reinstall the original equipment locknuts and washers.

4. LOWER REAR MOUNT

4.1 Install two (2) large rubber mounts to the upper

tabs in the lower rear mount using 3/8” locknuts and washers as shown. Remove the two, large 9/16-18 hex head bolts and lock washers from the vehicle as shown. Position the lower rear mount in place as shown in figure 4.1. Re-install and tighten the original equipment hex head bolts and lock washers to secure the lower rear mount to the vehicle. IMPORTANT: the bolts on

the ROPS structure must be torqued properly to meet original equipment safety standards. These two (2) bolts (9/16-18) are to be torqued to 160-192 ft.-lbs. (217-260 N-m).

Fig. 3.1 (view from front of left side)

remove and re-install these two bolts

lower rear mount

rubber mount

Fig. 4.1 (view from rear of right side)

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5. LOWER REAR PANEL

5.1 With assistance, install the lower rear panel onto

the threaded shafts of the two rubber bumpers. Use 3/8” locknuts and washers as shown in fig. 5.1. Tighten both locknuts.

5.2 Do not peel off the backing paper on the sound barrier material until step 7 (just prior to installing the upper rear panel assembly).

6. RIGHT SIDE FRAME

6.1 With assistance, remove the doors from both

side frames by opening and lifting up off of the pin hinges. Next, position the right side frame so that two of the holes in the floorboard of the side frame line up with the threaded inserts in the two front rubber bumpers. Loosely install two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts and two steel washers. Do not tighten bolts. Attach the rear of the side frame to the lower rear panel using two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts, two plastic washers, and two steel washers (see fig. 6.1). Note: the side frame tubing has factory installed threaded inserts. CAUTION: to avoid cross thread-

ing the factory installed threaded inserts, start the bolts by hand (no tools). Do not tighten these bolts

yet. The other side frame will be installed in step 7 (after the rear panel is positioned).

lower rear panel

threaded stud

Fig. 5.1 (view from rear of right side)

button head bolts, plastic washers, and steel washers

Fig. 6.1 (view from rear of right side)

7. REAR PANEL & LEFT SIDE FRAME

7.1 NOTE:The rear panel must be positioned in place at this time because clearances will not allow it to be put in place after side frame installation.

7.2 At this time, peel back the narrow protective sheet

remaining on the sound barrier of the lower rear panel. Fold it down on to the 90 degree bend of the lower rear panel. Note: adhesive-backed sound barrier should be applied to a clean, dry surface at room temperature.

7.3 With assistance, place the rear panel in position and rest it against the ROPS (see fig. 7.1).

7.4 With assistance, install the left side frame so that two of the holes in the floorboard of the side frame line up with the threaded inserts in the two front rubber bumpers. Loosely install two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts and two steel washers. Do not tighten bolts.

7.5 Attach the rear of the side frame to the lower rear panel using two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts, two plastic washers, and two steel washers (as shown in figure 6.1). Do not tighten bolts.

Fig. 7.1 (view from front of left side)

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8. COWL

8.1 With assistance, install the cowl to the lower front

of the side frames. Use two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts, two steel washers, and two plastic washers per side to connect to the factory installed threaded inserts in the side frame tubing. See fig. 8.1. Install one 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolt, two steel washers, and one locknut through the floorboard with the head of the bolt up top as shown in fig. 8.1.1. Repeat for opposite side. Leave bolts loose.

9. WINDSHIELD SUPPORT

9.1 With assistance, install the windshield support to

the upper front of the side frames. Use one 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolt, one steel washer, and one plastic washer in the lower hole on each side of the windshield support (into the factory installed threaded insert in the side frame tubing). See fig. 9.1. Install two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts, four steel washers, two plastic washers, and two locknuts to the middle and upper holes in the windshield support. Locknuts to be towards the inside of the cab. Repeat for opposite side. Leave bolts loose.

10. WORK LIGHTS

10.1 Install the two supplied grommets in the lower of

the two holes in the front face of the windshield support. Install the work light bolts into the upper of the 2 holes in the windshield top. Run the wires through the holes with grommets below as shown in Figure 10.1. (Note: The work lights are mounted upside down)

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button head bolts, plastic washers, and steel washers

Fig. 8.1 (view from front of right side)

bolt through cowl (bolt head up top)

Fig. 8.1.1 (view from front of right side)

Fig. 10.1 (view from front of right side)

plastic washer

Fig. 9.1 (view from front of right side)

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11. REAR PANEL

11.1 Attach rear panel to the left and right side frames

with eight 5/16-18 x 3/4” long button head bolts and steel washers (four per side) into factory installed threaded inserts. See figure 11.1.

12. ROOF

12.1 Remove the tethered pins and tip the folding

ROPS to the rear being careful not to scratch the rear panel. Install the roof so that the visor portion is facing forwards (see fig. 12.1). (Note: For easier installation, use a screwdriver to puncture through the foam headliner on the roof through each of the bolt holes before installing. Do this from the inside to prevent any unwanted tearing.)

12.2 Install one 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolt, with one steel washer, and one plastic washer each on the left and right side of the roof into factory installed inserts, in the top, front section of the side frames.

12.3 Use two 5/16” x 1” long button head bolts, four steel washers, two plastic washers, and two locknuts for the two holes directly in front of the two bolts installed previously. The locknuts should be underneath the roof.

12.4 Use two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts, four steel washers, two plastic washers, and two locknuts for the two front holes, locknuts to be underneath the roof.

12.5 Use six 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts, twelve steel washers, six plastic washers, and six locknuts for the four rear holes, locknuts to be inside the cab.

12.6 Lift folding portion of ROPS back into position and re-install the tethered pins, including the cotter pins.

13. ROLL BAR BRACKETS

13.1 Attach the larger half of the two piece roll bar

bracket assembly to the rear of the side frame using two 5/16” x 3/4” long button head bolts and two steel washers. Orient as shown in fig. 13.1. Do not tighten bolts. Assemble the other half by inserting the tab into the slot. Install one 5/16” x 3/4” long carriage bolt, one steel washer, and one locknut so that the locknut and washer are on the outside as shown.

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button head bolt and steel washer

Fig. 11.1 (viewed from front of left side)

1” button

head bolts

Fig. 12.1 (viewed from front of left side)

washer and locknut

larger half of roll bar brackets

outside surface of side frame

Fig. 13.1 (view from rear of right side)

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14. WINDSHIELD

14.1 Install the 3/4” thick plastic spacers onto the wind-

shield hinges and insert four 5/16” x 1 3/4” long flat head bolts. See figure 14.1.

14.2 With assistance, lift the windshield in place and engage the bolts into the slots. Attach 5/16” steel washers and 5/16” locknuts to the inside. Align the sides of the windshield with the side frames, engage both windshield latches in the closed position, then tighten the four flat head bolts in the upper hinges. Note: hinges are

plastic components. Do not overtighten. Torque to 7 ft./lbs. max..

14.3 The left and right windshield latches can engage in

three positions: closed, open 1”, or open 2” at the bottom.

15. TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS

15.1 Tighten all bolts at this time. First tighten the roll

bar brackets and the lower rear panel bolts that go into the back of the sideframes. Then work from the front to the rear. (lower front of side frames, cowl, windshield support, roof, then rear panel.)

16. DOORS

16.1 Apply grease to the pins mounted on the doors.

With assistance, install the doors pins into the sleeves on the sideframes. Work the doors back and forth until the hinges are completely seated. Note: the hinges, and striker pin can be adjusted for proper engagement. The rotary latch should be adjusted to get two (2) “clicks” when latching.

16.2 Install the gas shock to the side frame and door with the small piston end towards the door. Press the button on the compression fastener to lock the gas shock to the ball stud. See figure 16.2.

CAUTION: for safe operation, do not drive with doors open. Make sure doors are closed and properly latched when driving.

17. FINAL WIRING

17.1 Connect the ring terminals on the wire harness

containing the relay and fuse to the respective colored battery posts. (Red to positive; black to negative) The red terminal can be re-tightened, but leave the black terminal loose because more wires will be attached in later steps. Stretch the harness forward and connect the male bullet terminal on the end of the purple wire to the female bullet terminal on the vehicle wire harness. This is located on a pigtail under the deck near the HST dipstick and filler cap. See fig. 17.1.

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3/4” thick plastic spacer

Fig. 14.1 (view from front of left side)

compression fasteners

this end on door

Fig. 16.2 (gas shock for hard sided doors)

female bullet terminal

Fig. 17.1 (view from left side of vehicle)

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17. FINAL WIRING (cont’d.)

17.2 Route the wiper wire harness (black plug on one

end) down the steering column and back to the battery. Drill a 3/8” hole in the vehicle steering column cover (Note: Be sure to check for clearance inside the column, do not drill too deep) and feed the harness through the hole, and down the inside of the steering column. (Note: A wire hook or snake can be used to pull the wire down through the column easily) Leave 8” out of the hole so there is enough wire to open the windshield. Route the wires back to the battery. Be careful to avoid any moving parts which may pinch or sever the wires. Crimp the supplied ring terminal to the end of the black wire. See fig. 17.2.

17.3 Attach the toggle switch bracket to the passenger side of the windshield support using two 1/4-20 x 3/4” hex head bolts, four 1/4” steel washers, and two 1/4-20 locknuts. See Fig. 17.3.

17.4 Locate the wire harness with the toggle switch. Remove the nut on the toggle switch and put the toggle switch through the hole in the mount. Make sure that the groove on the toggle switch is at the bottom of the hole so that the point that is laser cut in the hole keeps the switch from spinning. Reinstall the nut and tighten.

17.5 Connect the two sets of female bullet connectors to the male bullet connectors on the work lights.

17.6 Attach the adhesive cable tie mounts to the cab as shown in Fig. 17.6. (3 on the windshield support, 3 on the side frame, and 4 down the side of the rear panel). Starting at the driver’s side work light, neatly cable tie the wires to the vehicle.

17.7 Route the wires out the hole in the bottom corner of the cab between the fender and sideframe. Connect the three ring terminals on the black wires from the three harnesses to the negative battery post and tighten. Connect the two piggy back terminals together from the work light and wiper harnesses and wrap electrical tape around them leaving the end open. Attach them to the outermost open post on the relay. Secure all wires, the relay, and the fuse to the vehicle with cable ties so that they cannot catch on any moving parts.

17.8 See Fig. 17.8 for a full wiring schematic.

3/8” drilled hole

wiper wire connector

Fig. 17.2 (viewed from front right side)

Toggle Switch

head bolts

Fig. 17.3 (viewed from rear right side)

Cable Tie

Holders

Fig. 17.6 (viewed from rear right side)

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1” button

2 Not

Shown

Signal Wire (purple)

Piggybacks (Red)

Wiper Plug

Relay

25A

Battery Positive (Red)

Battery Negative (Black) To Worklights

Toggle Switch

Fig. 17.8 (wiring schematic)

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18. WINDSHIELD WIPER

CAUTION: Make sure that the metal parts of the wiper motor do not contact the glass during installation. Damage could occur. WARNING: Over tightening wiper mounting hardware can damage windshield and components.

18.1 Install the pantograph wiper motor as shown below in figure 18.1. Install blade to arm and arm to wiper motor.

A factory installed set screw has been provided to ensure that the arm does not work its way off the splined shaft of the motor. Tighten that one set screw to 2 foot-pounds max. (or 24 inch-pounds max.).

Hex Nut

Plastic Cup Washer

Pantograph

Wiper Mount

1/4-20 Cap Nut

Plastic Cup Washer

10-32 x 3/4”

Bolt

Small Rubber

Washer

Small White

Nylon Bushing

Steel Washer

10-32 Locknut

Large Rubber Washer

Windshield

Large Rubber Washer

Large White

Nylon Bushing

Black Plastic

Standoff

Medium White Nylon Bushing

Internal tooth

lock washer

Fig. 18.1 (wiper motor installation)

19. FINISHING TOUCHES

19.1 Install nut covers on all exposed nuts inside the cab. Also install on the nut protruding from the roll bar brackets.

19.2 Cut the supplied grit paper to fit on each of the side frame floorboards to prevent slipping when entering or exiting the cab. Adhere the grit paper to a clean dry surface at room temperature.

20. CARE AND MAINTENANCE

20.1 Check and tighten hardware after 40 hours of operation. Periodically inspect and tighten hardware for the remainder

of the unit’s life.

20.2 Wash the painted surfaces of the unit with commercial automotive cleaning products.

20.3 Clean windows with glass cleaner.

1/4-20 x 5/8” Bolt

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