Kromski Symphony
Assembly Instructions
Important Notice
If you have any difculty in understanding these instructions, assembling the wheel, or having it operate to its fullest potential, WE
WANT YOU TO CONTACT US. WE CAN HELP.
If something does not t, does not turn or rotate, looks unusual, or if,
in spinning, something seems wrong, CALL US FOR CUSTOMER
SERVICE. 229-227-1322
You may also e-mail us your telephone number and a convenient
time to reach you (we will want you near the wheel) so we can help.
Our e-mail: mail@newvoyager.com
Video assembly instructions can be viewed here:
http://newvoyager.com/videos.html
Please check out our expanding offering of training and
informational videos on this page as well.
Thank you
New Voyager Trading
Distributor of Kromski products in North America
Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel
First, thanks for choosing the Kromski Symphony. We want your spinning experience
to be enjoyable and the rst thing to do is to assemble the wheel correctly and with
care so that it works properly. We suggest you read through these instructions completely before you begin as this will resolve any questions you may have before they
arise. You may also want to view our online video about assembling this wheel -
http://newvoyager.com/videos.html After your wheel is assembled, we will offer a
few words of advice about adjusting it and regular maintenance (also see the video).
Finishing
If you purchased an unnished wheel, we suggest a nish of your choosing. A good
wood stain and surface nish will help prevent a degree of staining from regular use
and from the use of lubricating oil. Finishing a wheel prior to assembly is probably the
best way to proceed. For a clear, natural look we suggest tung oil; otherwise, any quality stain and nish is acceptable. If you notice smudges on the wood (that result from
your handling the parts) the easiest way to remove them is with a clean pencil eraser
before applying the nish.
Unboxing the wheel
The Symphony was boxed in Poland and has traveled some distance to get to you,
so the rst thing to do is to unbox the wheel, remove all the parts and check for any problems that may be obvious. If you observe a
problem, contact your dealer.
Make sure all parts are unwrapped and set aside. Give yourself some room to work away from the parts so you don’t step on anything.
Smaller parts are in plastic bags so you may want to empty the bags and examine these items. Everything will go together easily so
don’t be concerned with the number of parts.
Please refer to your video if you have any questions about part placement or adjustment.
Step 1
The rst step is to attach the rear leg (the front legs and treadle assembly are already in place). Turn the bench upside-down so that the
hole for the rear leg is accessible. Slip the rear leg into the hole. You may glue the top of the leg if you like. Set the frame on its legs
and make sure the treadles move easily and they look like the picture.
Please do not glue the leg if you believe something has happened to these parts during shipment.
Step 2
Now you will mount the wheel posts. Locate the 2 bolts, 2 silver washers, 2 brass washers and 2 barrel nuts. The two wheel
posts are positioned in the two large holes on top of the bench; the at surface near the base of the posts should face towards
each other. Near the bottom of each post, on the side, is a small hole; slip a barrel nut into each hole with the slot on the end
of the nut facing out; the holes in the side of the posts should be towards the end of the bench. Bring the bolt and washers
up from beneath the bench in a manner that will allow the bolt to thread into the barrel nut (as needed, rotate the nut to line
it up with the bolt). Snug, but do not completely tighten the bolt. At this time, you want to pre-position pre-tied drive band;
make a double loop and drop it over the front wheel post.
Step 3
You will now mount the wheel on the two wheel posts. Locate a brass sleeve bearing and
washer from your parts and slip on the wheel axle, washer rst, then the bearing (Video may
confuse you - have the oil hole on the inside, near the wheel) . Bring the wheel to the top of the
wheel posts and lower the axle into the slots on the top of the posts until the bearings rest at the
bottom of the slot. Secure the wheel axles with two wooden pegs, being sure to orient the small
groove on the outside surface of the bearing on top; the wooden peg will slip along this groove
as you push it in. Snug in the pegs.
Note: Symphony wheels are beginning to ship with the crank separate from the wheel. If so
for you, insert crank into the hole on the hub and secure with 2 wood screws.
Step 4
Locate the two footmen that connect the treadles to the crank. Remove the small screw(s) in each and slip the footmen onto the crank
(gently open the cut at the top of the footman just so you can slip it on the crank). The footman with the larger top hole must be put in
the rear position; this rear footman mounts on the brass bushing. Pinch the top of the footmen together and tighten screws (the inside
footman must swing easily on the crank; don’t over tighten the screws on this footman). The footman nearest the wheel hub will be
tied to the right treadle; the rear footman is tied to the left treadle. Loop a length of leather through the hole at the end of each footman and tie a rm square knot with the knot at the very end of the footman; then thread both ends down through the larger hole on the
treadle; remove any slack. Pull the two ends up through the two remaining holes in the treadle, pull tightly again, then tie. There must
not be any slack in this connection. Over time you will need to re-tie this connection as the leather will stretch some.
Left - note how
Scotch tension is
installed.
Locking
Peg
Step 5
The yer, bobbin and whorls (2 - small and large) are next. Locate these items. Note that the bobbins have different size pulleys on
each end. How you use these bobbins with the two whorls is important. Normal operation suggests that when you are using the larger
whorl (for slowing ratios or speed of twist) you orient the bobbin on the metal spindle with the larger pulley next to the whorl. When
using the small whorl, you MUST always place the small bobbin pulley next to the whorl; your yarn will not go on the bobbin if you
do otherwise . For beginners, we suggest you assemble your yer with the larger whorl so you will be set up for slower spinning when
you begin. AS WITH MOST DOUBLE DRIVE WHEELS, THE WHORLS AND SPINDLE SHAFT ARE REVERSE THREADED.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ATTACH THE WHORL IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. GOING ON, TURN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION. CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE. DON’T LET CHILDREN PLAY WITH THIS.
Step 6
The mother-of-all assembly will be installed next. Locate the long wood tensioning adjusting screw, wooden bolt (threaded on one
end, hole in the other), locking peg, mother-of-all support, mother-of-all base, round wooden locking nut, and two maiden posts (front
and rear). Some of these parts may be pre-assembled for you. Wax any wood threads with candle wax. Position short threaded piece
into the large slot on the left end of the bench; push the tensioning screw into the hole on the extreme end of the bench and thread it
through the rst piece. When the tensioning screw can be pushed in all the way, push the locking peg into the hole on the bottom of
the bench so that it secures the tension screw. Drop the sliding mounting block (rotate 180º to nd best t) and mother-of-all base onto
the upright threaded piece. Thread on the round wooden nut, but keep it loose for now.
Bring the assembled yer to the wheel. Bring the double loop of the drive band to the yer and position one loop on the larger groove
of the whorl and the other on the bobbin pulley. Insert the back of the yer into the small hole in the rear leather bearing and drop the
front (the large piece of metal) down into the front bearing. The front should snap into the front bearing.
The leather bearings work great on spinning wheels but they do require oiling. New bearings absorb a good deal of oil. We suggest
you oil now and continue until the leather is saturated with oil.
Step 7
Now you will add a number of small items to your wheel. The extra whorl you have can be conveniently stored on the wheel bench;
locate short straight dowel and push into the pre drilled hole on the bench top (between yer and wheel posts); drop extra whorl on
this peg.
The threading hook is stored on the wheel bench in a hole designed just for this. Push and twist the hook into this hole the rst time to
mate the two well.
Post caps - each wheel post must be outtted with a fancy wooden cap (rotate 180º to nd best t).
Scotch tension setup (you may ignore if you do not intend to use Scotch tension). The brake band for scotch tension is in the parts
bag with a spring attached. Attach the spring to one small eye bolt and screw the bolt into the left rear side of the mother-of-all base
(you will nd a pre drilled hole on each side of the base). Screw another eyebolt on the right side of the base. Bring the band over
the bobbin’s rear pulley, thread through the right eyebolt and bring to the front. Thread the end of the brake band through the small
wooden thumb peg and tie off. The peg goes in the hole on the base. Push and twist the peg into this hole the rst time to mate the two
well. If you are not using the brake (when in double drive operation), drape the band under the yer. You may nd that removing the
brake band is easier if you use a pair of pliers to open the left eyebolt a bit; now you can just slip the spring off and remove it from
around the bobbin.
Wheel adjustment
Place the drive band (two loops) around the wheel. To get the band in position it may be necessary to tighten or loosen the tension on
the band by turning the tension adjusting knob at the end of the bench. If you are a beginner, the question always is, “how much tension?” The drive band should not slip on the wheel or yer as you treadle, but until your begin spinning, it is impossible to know if
the band is set right. It need never be very tight. Part of spinning is adjusting the tension for the conditions you are working with.
Now you will adjust the angle of the wheel to the yer (this is shown very well in the video). Your two wheel posts are in position
holding the wheel but you have not rmly tightened the bolts under the bench. Standing over the end of the wheel, grab both posts and
rotate them together; as you rotate, watch the rim of the wheel and the direction of the drive band to the yer. You want the drive band
to make a straight line from the rim of the wheel to the whorl and the bobbin pulley. Test by spinning the wheel several rotations and
watch where the drive band tracks on the wheel. If needed, rotate the wheel posts more to get the best possible tracking. Now rmly
tighten the two bolts under the wheel posts.
Tensioned Lazy Kate - see picture on parts list
Assemble as you see in the picture, making sure that the two cross supports that have holes in them (one small hole for an eyescrew
and a larger hole for a thumb peg) are both on the same side of the frame - left or right, it makes no difference. Glue the cross supports if you like. From the parts bag, locate a small eyescrew, spring and brake band. Attach the eyescrew into the small hole on the
cross support; attach the spring to the eyescrew. The brake band comes over the top of the Lazy Kate and the end should be tied to the
thumb screw. Your bobbins go on the metal rods with the brake band going over the pulleys that are at the end of each bobbin. Tighten
the thumb screw as needed to create drag on the bobbins as you ply. Push and twist the peg into this hole the rst time to mate the two
well.
Maintenance
As with any new wheel, there will be a break-in period, not only for the wheel but for the spinner to get accustomed to the feel and
adjustments that need to be made during spinning. Follow the lubrication suggestions below and then treadle for a while without spinning. Make sure there is nothing on the shaft that will impede easy rotation of the bobbin. Lubricate as noted below. Make sure the
treadle/footman connection is secure.
All spinning wheels have points that require lubrication. On the Symphony, you need to regularly oil the following points:
- Treadle ends where they enter the front legs
- Leather bearings that support the yer
- Metal spindle shaft at both ends where the bobbin bearings ride
- The footman/crank locations
- The two metal sleeve bearings that hold the axle; a small oil hole is on each for adding lubricant.
We do not recommend lubricating the metal rod that is between the two treadles. If you have a noise issue at this location contact New
Voyager Trading for instructions.
Your Kromski Symphony comes with a handy needle nose oiling bottle. It is ideal for all these locations. We recommend that all these
points be oiled when you begin spinning for the day.
If you are a beginner and do not have an instructor, we suggest any of the following to help you learn. These are available at many
spinning shops.
Books
Hands-on Spinning by Lee Raven - the “standard” for all new spinners
Videos
Spinning Wool - Basics and Beyond by Patsy Zawistoski
If you have any questions about your Symphony or any concerns, please contact your retailer or we welcome your calls at New Voyager Trading. We can help. Call: 229-227-1322.
From time to time changes may be made to these instructions. You can obtain an updated version any time by visiting our web site at
www.newvoyager.com
Kromski Symphony
Parts
Front Maiden
Bobbin (3)
Mother-of-all base
Front legs
Back leg
Flyer
Rear
Maiden
Post caps
Wheel
posts
Kromski Symphony Parts
Wheel post
hardware
Brake parts
Whorl peg
Crank
Bearing
Hub
Wheel
Metal rods no longer have wooden knobs
on the ends.
Wood nut
Treadles
LAZY KATE
Tension Peg
Mother-of-all support
Footman
Locking peg
Orice hook
Wheel
pegs
Treadle support your treadle set-up
has been assembled
for you
Bench
Tension
screw
Kromski Spinning Wheels
Imported and Distributed by
New Voyager Trading
Thomasville, GA 31792
Wooden bolt
Whorls
Leather ties
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