To ensure safe operation please read the following statements and understand their meaning. Also
refer to your equipment manufacturer's manual for other important safety information. This manual
contains safety precautions which are explained below. Please read carefully.
WARNING
Warning is used to indicate the presence of a hazard that can cause severe personal injury, death,
or substantial property damage if the warning is ignored.
CAUTION
Caution is used to indicate the presence of a hazard that will or can cause minor personal injury or
property damage if the caution is ignored.
NOTE
Note is used to notify people of installation, operation, or maintenance information that is important
but not hazard-related.
1
For Y our Safety!
These precautions should be followed at all times. Failure to follow these precautions could result in injury to yourself
and others.
WARNING
Accidental Starts can cause severe
injury or death.
Disconnect and ground spark plug
leads before servicing.
Accidental Starts!
Disabling engine. Accidental starting
can cause severe injury or death.
Before working on the engine or
equipment, disable the engine as follows:
1) Disconnect the spark plug lead(s).
2) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable
from battery.
WARNING
Rotating Parts can cause severe
injury.
Stay away while engine is in
operation.
Rotating Parts!
Keep hands, feet, hair, and clothing away
from all moving parts to prevent injury.
Never operate the engine with covers,
shrouds, or guards removed.
Hot Parts can cause severe burns.
Do not touch engine while operating
or just after stopping.
Hot Parts!
Engine components can get extremely
hot from operation. To prevent severe
burns, do not touch these areas while the
engine is running - or immediately after it
is turned off. Never operate the engine
with heat shields or guards removed.
WARNING
1.1
Section 1
Safety and General Information
WARNING
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and
severe burns.
Do not fill the fuel tank while the
engine is hot or running.
Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its
vapors can explode if ignited. Store
gasoline only in approved containers, in
well ventilated, unoccupied buildings,
away from sparks or flames. Do not fill
the fuel tank while the engine is hot or
running, since spilled fuel could ignite if
it comes in contact with hot parts or
sparks from ignition. Do not start the
engine near spilled fuel. Never use
gasoline as a cleaning agent.
WARNING
WARNINGWARNING
Carbon Monoxide can cause severe
nausea, fainting or death.
Avoid inhaling exhaust fumes, and
never run the engine in a closed
building or confined area.
Lethal Exhaust Gases!
Engine exhaust gases contain poisonous
carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is
odorless, colorless, and can cause death if
inhaled. Avoid inhaling exhaust fumes,
and never run the engine in a closed
building or confined area.
Explosive Gas can cause fires and
severe acid burns.
Charge battery only in a well
ventilated area. Keep sources of
ignition away.
Explosive Gas!
Batteries produce explosive hydrogen gas
while being charged. To prevent a fire or
explosion, charge batteries only in well
ventilated areas. Keep sparks, open
flames, and other sources of ignition
away from the battery at all times. Keep
batteries out of the reach of children.
Remove all jewelry when servicing
batteries.
Before disconnecting the negative (-)
ground cable, make sure all switches are
OFF. If ON, a spark will occur at the
ground cable terminal which could cause
an explosion if hydrogen gas or gasoline
vapors are present.
Cleaning Solvents can cause severe
injury or death.
Use only in well ventilated areas
away from ignition sources.
Flammable Solvents!
Carburetor cleaners and solvents are
extremely flammable. Keep sparks,
flames, and other sources of ignition
away from the area. Follow the cleaner
manufacturer’s warnings and
instructions on its proper and safe use.
Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
CAUTION
Electrical Shock can cause injury.
Do not touch wires while engine is
running.
Electrical Shock!
Never touch electrical wires or
components while the engine is running.
They can be sources of electrical shock.
1.2
Engine Identification Numbers
When ordering parts, or in any communication
involving an engine, always give the Model,Specification, and Serial Numbers, including letter
suffixes if there are any.
The engine identification numbers appear on a decal,
or decals, affixed to the engine shrouding. See Figure
1-1. An explanation of these numbers is shown in
Figure 1-2.
Complete Spec. Number
(Incorporating Model No.
with V ariation No. of
Basic Spec.)
3705810334
Factory Code
Figure 1-2. Explanation of Engine Identification Numbers.
1.3
Section 1
Safety and General Information
Oil Recommendations
Using the proper type and weight of oil in the
crankcase is extremely important. So is checking oil
daily and changing oil regularly. It is also
recommended that a consistent brand of oil be used.
Failure to use the correct oil, or using dirty oil, causes
premature engine wear and failure.
Oil Type
Use high-quality detergent oil of API (American
Petroleum Institute) Service Class SG, SH, SJ or
higher. Select the viscosity based on the air
temperature at the time of operation as shown in the
following table.
RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADES
10W-30
**
5W-20, 5W-30
°F -2002032 406080100
°C -30-20-10010203040
TEMPERATURE RANGE EXPECTED BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE
* Use of synthetic oil having 5W-20 or 5W-30 rating is acceptable,
up to 4°C (40°F)
** Synthetic oils will provide better starting in extreme cold below
23°C (-10°F)
NOTE: Using other than service class SG, SH, SJ or
higher oil or extending oil change intervals
longer than recommended can cause engine
damage.
NOTE: Synthetic oils meeting the listed
classifications may be used with oil changes
performed at the recommended intervals.
However, to allow piston rings to properly
seat, a new or rebuilt engine should be
operated for at least 50 hours using standard
petroleum based oil before switching to
synthetic oil.
A logo or symbol on oil containers identifies the API
service class and SAE viscosity grade. See Figure 1-3.
*
Kohler 10W-30
Refer to Section 6 - Lubrication System for detailed
procedures on checking the oil, changing the oil and
changing the oil filter.
Fuel Recommendations
WARNING: Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can explode if
ignited. Before servicing the fuel system, make sure there are no
sparks, open flames or other sources of ignition nearby as these
can ignite gasoline vapors. Disconnect and ground the spark
plug leads to prevent the possibility of sparks from the ignition
system.
General Recommendations
Purchase gasoline in small quantities that can be used
within 30 days, and store only in clean, approved
containers. Do not use gasoline left over from the
previous season, unless treated with a fuel stabilizer
(see Storage), to minimize gum deposits and ensure
easy starting. Do not use gasoline containing
Methanol, or add oil to the gasoline.
Do not overfill the fuel tank. Leave room for the fuel to
expand.
Fuel Type
For best results, use only clean, fresh, unleaded
gasoline with a pump sticker octane rating of 87 or
higher. In countries using the Research method, it
should be 90 octane minimum.
Unleaded gasoline is recommended as it leaves less
combustion chamber deposits and reduces harmful
exhaust emissions. Leaded gasoline is not
recommended and must not be used on EFI engines, or
on other models where exhaust emissions are
regulated.
Gasoline/Alcohol Blends
Gasohol (up to 10% ethyl alcohol, 90% unleaded
gasoline by volume) is approved as a fuel for Kohler
engines. Other gasoline/alcohol blends including E20
and E85 are not to be used and not approved. Any
failures resulting from use of these fuels will not be
warranted.
Figure 1-3. Oil Container Logo.
1.4
Gasoline/Ether Blends
Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether (MTBE) and unleaded
gasoline blends (up to a maximum of 15% MTBE by
volume) are approved as a fuel for Kohler engines.
Other gasoline/ether blends are not approved.
Periodic Maintenance Instructions
Section 1
Safety and General Information
WARNING: Accident al St arts!
Disabling engine. Accidental starting can cause severe injury or death. Before working on the engine or equipment, disable
the engine as follows: 1) Disconnect the spark plug lead(s). 2) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable from battery.
Maintenance Schedule
These required maintenance procedures should be performed at the frequency stated in the table. They should
also be included as part of any seasonal tune-up.
Frequency
Daily or Before
Starting Engine
Weekly
Seasonally or
Every 150 Hours
Every 200 Hours
Seasonally or
Every 300 Hours
Yearly or
Every 500 Hours
Every 600 Hours
¹Perform these maintenance procedures more frequently under extremely dusty, dirty conditions.
2
Have a Kohler Engine Service Dealer perform this service.
MaintenanceRefer to:
• Fill fuel tank.Section 5
• Check oil level.Section 6
• Check air cleaner for dirty1, loose, or damaged parts.Section 4
• Check air intake and cooling areas, clean as necessary.Section 4
• Check filter minder or air cleaner element.Section 4
• Check air cleaner element.Section 4
• Replace fuel filter.Section 5
• Change oil. Oil filter is recommended.
(More frequently under severe conditions.)Section 6
• Remove cooling shrouds and clean cooling areas1.Section 4
• Check oil cooler fins, clean as necessary.Section 6
• Check spark plug condition and gap.Section 7
• Change oil filter.Section 6
• Replace air cleaner element.Section 4
• Have solenoid shift starter disassembled and cleaned2.Section 7
• Have crankshaft splines lubricated2.
• Replace inner air cleaner element.Section 4
• Replace spark plugs.Section 7
1
Storage
If the engine will be out of service for 30 days or more,
use the following storage procedure.
1. Clean the exterior surfaces of the engine. Avoid
spraying water at the wiring harness or any of
the electrical components.
2. Change the oil and oil filter while the engine is
still warm from operation. See Changing Oil and
Oil Filter in Section 6.
3. The fuel system must be completely emptied, or
the gasoline must be treated with a stabilizer to
prevent deterioration. If you choose to use a
stabilizer, follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations, and add the correct amount
for the capacity of the fuel system.
Fill the fuel tank with clean, fresh gasoline. Run
the engine for 2 to 3 minutes to get stabilized fuel
into the rest of the system. Close the fuel shut-off
valve when the unit is being stored or
transported.
To empty the system, run the engine until the
tank and the system are empty.
4. Remove the spark plugs and add one tablespoon
of engine oil into each spark plug hole. Install the
spark plugs, but do not connect the plug leads.
Crank the engine two or three revolutions.
5. Disconnect the battery or use a battery minder to
keep the battery charged during storage.
6. Store the engine in a clean, dry place.
1.5
Section 1
Safety and General Information
Dimensions in millimeters.
Inch equivalents shown in [ ].
Figure 1-4. T ypical CH PRO Series Engine Dimensions with Heavy-Duty Air Cleaner.
1.6
Safety and General Information
General Specifications¹
Power (@ 3600 RPM, exceeds Society of Automotive Engineers-Small Engine Test Code J1940.)
N·m = in. lb. x 0.113
N·m = ft. lb. x 1.356
in. lb. = N·m x 8.85
ft. lb. = N·m x 0.737
1.13
Section 2
Tools & Aids
Section 2
Tools & Aids
Certain quality tools are designed to help you perform specific disassembly, repair, and reassembly procedures.
By using tools designed for the job, you can properly service engines easier, faster, and safer! In addition, you’ll
increase your service capabilities and customer satisfaction by decreasing engine downtime.
Here is the list of tools and their source.
Separate Tool Suppliers:
Kohler Tools
Contact your source
of supply.
SE Tools
415 Howard St.
Lapeer, MI 48446
Phone 810-664-2981
Toll Free 800-664-2981
Fax 810-664-8181
Design Technology Inc.
768 Burr Oak Drive
Westmont, IL 60559
Phone 630-920-1300
A flywheel holding tool can be made out of an old
junk flywheel ring gear as shown in Figure 2-1, and
used in place of a strap wrench.
1. Using an abrasive cut-off wheel, cut out a six
tooth segment of the ring gear as shown.
2. Grind off any burrs or sharp edges.
3. Invert the segment and place it between the
ignition bosses on the crankcase so the tool teeth
engage the flywheel ring gear teeth. The bosses
will lock the tool and flywheel in position for
loosening, tightening, or removing with a puller.
2. Remove the studs of a Posi-Lock rod or grind off
the aligning steps of a Command rod, so the joint
surface is flat.
3. Find a 1 in. long capscrew with the correct
thread size to match the threads in the
connecting rod.
4. Use a flat washer with the correct I.D. to slip on
the capscrew and approximately 1” O.D. (Kohler
Part No. 12 468 05-S). Assemble the capscrew
and washer to the joint surface of the rod, as
shown in Figure 2-2.
Figure 2-1. Flywheel Holding Tool.
Rocker Arm/Crankshaft Tool
A spanner wrench to lift the rocker arms or turn the
crankshaft may be made out of an old junk connecting
rod.
1. Find a used connecting rod from a 10 HP or
larger engine. Remove and discard the rod cap.
Figure 2-2. Rocker Arm/Crankshaf t T ool.
2.4
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Guide
When troubles occur, be sure to check the simple
causes which, at first, may seem too obvious to be
considered. For example, a starting problem could be
caused by an empty fuel tank.
Some general common causes of engine troubles are
listed below. Use these to locate the causing factors.
Refer to the specific section(s) within this service
manual for more detailed information.
Engine Cranks But Will Not Start
1. Empty fuel tank.
2. Fuel shut-off valve closed.
3. Poor fuel, dirt, or water in the fuel system.
4. Clogged fuel line.
5. Spark plug lead(s) disconnected.
6. Kill switch in off position.
7. Faulty spark plugs.
8. Faulty ignition module(s).
9. Carburetor solenoid malfunction.
10. Battery connected backwards.
11. Safety interlock system engaged.
11. Quality of fuel.
12. Flywheel key sheared.
13. Intake system leak.
Engine Will Not Crank
1. PTO drive is engaged.
2. Battery is discharged.
3. Safety interlock switch is engaged.
4. Loose or faulty wires or connections.
5. Faulty key switch or ignition switch.
6. Faulty electric starter or solenoid.
7. Seized internal engine components.
Engine Runs But Misses
1. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
2. Spark plug lead disconnected.
3. Poor quality of fuel.
4. Faulty spark plug(s).
5. Loose wires or connections that intermittently
ground the ignition kill circuit.
6. Engine overheated.
7. Faulty ignition module or incorrect air gap.
8. Carburetor adjusted incorrectly.
3
Engine Starts But Does Not Keep Running
1. Restricted fuel tank cap vent.
2. Poor fuel, dirt, or water in the fuel system.
3. Faulty or misadjusted choke or throttle controls.
4. Loose wires or connections that short the kill
terminal of ignition module to ground.
5. Faulty cylinder head gasket.
6. Faulty carburetor.
7. Intake system leak.
Engine Starts Hard
1. PTO drive is engaged.
2. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
3. Clogged fuel line.
4. Loose or faulty wires or connections.
5. Faulty or misadjusted choke or throttle controls.
1. Air intake/grass screen, cooling fins, or cooling
shrouds clogged.
2. Excessive engine load.
3. Low crankcase oil level.
4. High crankcase oil level.
5. Faulty carburetor.
6. Lean fuel mixture.
3.1
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Engine Knocks
1. Excessive engine load.
2. Low crankcase oil level.
3. Old or improper fuel.
4. Internal wear or damage.
5. Hydraulic lifter malfunction.
6. Quality of fuel.
7. Incorrect grade of oil.
Engine Loses Power
1. Low crankcase oil level.
2. High crankcase oil level.
3. Dirty air cleaner element.
4. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
5. Excessive engine load.
6. Engine overheated.
7. Faulty spark plugs.
8. Low compression.
9. Exhaust restriction.
10. Low battery.
11. Incorrect governor setting.
Engine Uses Excessive Amount of Oil
1. Incorrect oil viscosity/type.
2. Clogged, broken, or inoperative crankcase
breather.
3. Worn or broken piston rings.
4. Worn cylinder bore.
5. Worn valve stems/valve guides.
6. Crankcase overfilled.
7. Blown head gasket/overheated.
Oil Leaks from Oil Seals, Gaskets
1. Clogged, broken or inoperative crankcase
breather.
2. Loose or improperly torqued fasteners.
3. Piston blowby, or leaky valves.
4. Restricted exhaust.
External Engine Inspection
Before cleaning or disassembling the engine, make a
thorough inspection of its external appearance and
condition. This inspection can give clues to what
might be found inside the engine (and the cause)
when it is disassembled.
• Check for buildup of dirt and debris on the
crankcase, cooling fins, grass screen, and other
external surfaces. Dirt or debris on these areas
are causes of higher operating temperatures and
overheating.
• Check the air cleaner cover and base for damage
or indications of improper fit and seal.
• Check the air cleaner element. Look for holes,
tears, cracked or damaged sealing surfaces, or
other damage that could allow unfiltered air into
the engine. Also note if the element is dirty or
clogged. These could indicate that the engine has
been under serviced.
• Check the carburetor throat for dirt. Dirt in the
throat is further indication that the air cleaner is
not functioning properly.
• Check the oil level. Note if the oil level is within
the operating range on the dipstick, or if it is low
or overfilled.
• Check the condition of the oil. Drain the oil into a
container - the oil should flow freely. Check for
metal chips and other foreign particles.
Sludge is a natural by-product of combustion; a
small accumulation is normal. Excessive sludge
formation could indicate overrich carburetion,
weak ignition, overextended oil change intervals
or wrong weight or type of oil was used, to name
a few.
NOTE: It is good practice to drain oil at a
location away from the workbench. Be
sure to allow ample time for complete
drainage.
Cleaning the Engine
After inspecting the external condition of the engine,
clean the engine thoroughly before disassembling it.
Also clean individual components as the engine is
disassembled. Only clean parts can be accurately
inspected and gauged for wear or damage. There are
many commercially available cleaners that will
quickly remove grease, oil, and grime from engine
parts. When such a cleaner is used, follow themanufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions carefully.
Make sure all traces of the cleaner are removed before
the engine is reassembled and placed into operation.
Even small amounts of these cleaners can quickly
break down the lubricating properties of engine oil.
• Check for obvious fuel and oil leaks, and
damaged components. Excessive oil leakage can
indicate a clogged or improperly-assembled
breather, worn/damaged seals and gaskets, or
loose or improperly-torqued fasteners.
3.2
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Basic Engine Tests
Crankcase Vacuum T est
A partial vacuum should be present in the crankcase
when the engine is operating. Pressure in the
crankcase (normally caused by a clogged or
improperly assembled breather) can cause oil to be
forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other available
spots.
Crankcase vacuum is best measured with either a
water manometer or a vacuum gauge (see Section 2).
Complete instructions are provided in the kits.
To test the crankcase vacuum with the manometer:
1. Insert the stopper/hose into the oil fill hole. Leave
the other tube of manometer open to atmosphere.
Make sure the shut off clamp is closed.
2. Start the engine and run at no-load high speed
(3200 to 3750 RPM).
3. Open the clamp and note the water level in the
tube.
The level in the engine side should be a minimum
of 10.2 cm (4 in.) above the level in the open side.
If the level in the engine side is less than specified
(low/no vacuum), or the level in the engine side is
lower than the level in the open side (pressure),
check for the conditions in the table below.
4. Close the shut-off clamp before stopping the
engine.
To test the crankcase vacuum with the Vacuum/
Pressure Gauge Kit (see Section 2):
3
1. Remove the dipstick or oil fill plug/cap.
2. Install the adapter into the oil fill/dipstick tube
opening.
3. Push the barbed fitting on the gauge solidly into
the hole in the adapter.
4. Start the engine and bring it up to operating
speed (3200-3600 RPM).
5. Check the reading on the gauge. If the reading is
to the left of 0 on the gauge, vacuum or negative
pressure is indicated. If the reading is to the
right of 0 on the gauge, positive pressure is
present.
Crankcase vacuum should be a minimum of 4
inches of water. If the reading is below the
specification, or if pressure is present, check the
table below for possible causes and remedies.
No Crankcase Vacuum/Pressure in Crankcase
Possible Cause
1. Crankcase breather clogged or inoperative.
2. Seals and/or gaskets leaking. Loose or
improperly torqued fasteners.
3. Piston blow by or leaky valves (confirm by
inspecting components).
4. Restricted exhaust.
Solution
1. Disassemble breather, clean parts thoroughly,
reassemble, and recheck pressure.
2. Replace all worn or damaged seals and gaskets.
Make sure all fasteners are tightened securely. Use
appropriate torque values and sequences when
necessary.
3. Recondition piston, rings, cylinder bore, valves,
and valve guides.
A compression test is best performed on a warm
engine. Clean any dirt or debris away from the base
of the spark plugs before removing them. Be sure the
choke is off, and the throttle is wide open during the
test. Compression should be at least 160 psi and
should not vary more than 15% between cylinders.
Cylinder Leakdown T est
A cylinder leakdown test can be a valuable
alternative to a compression test. By pressurizing the
combustion chamber from an external air source, you
can determine if the valves or rings are leaking and
how badly.
The Cylinder Leakdown Tester (see Section 2) is a
relatively simple, inexpensive leakdown tester for
small engines. The tester includes a quick disconnect
for attaching the adapter hose, and a holding tool.
Leakdown T est Instructions
1. Run the engine for 3-5 minutes to warm it up.
2. Remove the spark plug(s) and the air filter from
engine.
3. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston (of
cylinder being tested) is at top dead center (TDC)
of the compression stroke. Hold the engine in this
position while testing. The holding tool supplied
with the tester can be used if the PTO end of the
crankshaft is accessible. Lock the holding tool
onto the crankshaft. Install a 3/8" breaker bar
into the hole/slot of the holding tool, so it is
perpendicular to both the holding tool and
crankshaft PTO.
If the flywheel end is more accessible, use a
breaker bar and socket on the flywheel nut/screw
to hold it in position. An assistant may be needed
to hold the breaker bar during testing. If the
engine is mounted in a piece of equipment, it may
be possible to hold it by clamping or wedging a
driven component. Just be certain that the engine
cannot rotate off of TDC in either direction.
4. Install the adapter into the spark plug hole, but
do not attach it to the tester at this time.
5. Connect an air source of at least 50 psi to the
tester.
6. Turn the regulator knob in the increase direction
(clockwise) until the gauge needle is in the yellow
set area at the low end of the scale.
7. Connect the tester quick-disconnect to the
adapter hose while firmly holding the engine at
TDC. Note the gauge reading and listen for
escaping air at the carburetor intake, exhaust
outlet, and crankcase breather.
8. Check the test results against the following table:
Leakdown Test Results
Air escaping from crankcase breather ......................................................Rings or cylinder worn.
Air escaping from exhaust system ............................................................Defective exhaust valve/improper seating.
Air escaping from carburetor .....................................................................Defective intake valve/improper seating.
Gauge reading in low (green) zone ............................................................ Piston rings and cylinder in good
condition.
Gauge reading in moderate (yellow) zone ...............................................Engine is still usable, but there is some
wear present. Customer should start
planning for overhaul or replacement.
Gauge reading in high (red) zone ...............................................................Rings and/or cylinder have considerable
wear. Engine should be reconditioned or
replaced.
3.4
Air Cleaner and Air Intake System
Section 4
Air Cleaner and Air Intake System
Section 4
Air Cleaners
General
These engines use a heavy-duty style air cleaner as
shown in Figure 4-1, consisting of a cylindrical
housing attached to the carburetor and intake
manifold. The air cleaner housing contains a paper
element and inner element, designed for longer
service intervals. The system is CARB/EPA certified
and the components should not be altered or modified
in any way.
Heavy-Duty Style Air Cleaner
2. Check and clean the screen area on the inlet side.
Pull the air cleaner paper element out of the
housing on opposite side. See Figures 4-2 and 4-3.
4
Inlet Screen
Figure 4-2. Accessing Inlet Screen.
Paper Element
Figure 4-1. Heavy-Duty Style Air Cleaner.
Service
Weekly and every 150 hours: Check filter minder (if
equipped), unhook the two retaining clips on each end
and remove the end caps. Perform inspection of the
paper element and inlet screen area.
Seasonally or every 300 hours of operation (more
often under extremely dusty or dirty conditions),
replace the paper element and check the inner
element. Follow these steps.
1. Unhook the two retaining clips on each end and
remove the end caps from the air cleaner
housing.
Inner
Element
Figure 4-3. Removing Elements.
3. After the paper element is removed, check the
condition of the inner element. It should be
replaced whenever it appears dirty, typically
every other time the paper element is replaced or
every 600 hours. Clean the area around the base
of the inner element before removing it, so dirt
does not get into the engine.
4.1
Section 4
Air Cleaner and Air Intake System
4. Do not wash the paper element and inner
element or use compressed air, this will damage
the elements. Replace dirty, bent, or damaged
elements with new genuine Kohler elements as
required. Handle the new elements carefully; do
not use if the sealing surfaces are bent or
damaged.
5. Check all parts for wear, cracks, or damage, and
that ejector area is clean. See Figure 4-4. Replace
any damaged components.
Ejector
Area
Air Intake/Cooling System
To ensure proper cooling, make sure the grass screen,
cooling fan fins, and external surfaces of the engine
are kept clean at all times.
Seasonally or every 150 hours of operation (more
often under extremely dusty or dirty conditions),
remove the cylinder shrouds and blower housing.
Clean the cooling fins and external surfaces as
necessary. Make sure all shrouds are reinstalled.
Cylinder
Shroud
Figure 4-4. Ejector Area.
6. Install the new inner element, followed by the
paper element. Slide each fully into place in the
air cleaner housing.
7. Reinstall the end caps and secure with the
retaining clips. See Figure 4-1.
Air Cleaner Components
Whenever the air cleaner cover is removed, or the
paper element or inner element are serviced, check the
following:
Air Cleaner Housing - Make sure the housing is not
damaged or broken and properly secured.
Air Cleaner Inlet - Make sure the air cleaner inlet is
secured tightly to the carburetor and not cracked or
damaged.
Breather Tube - Make sure the tube is attached to the
air cleaner base and the breather cover.
Figure 4-5. Removing Shrouds for Cleaning.
NOTE: Damaged, worn or loose air cleaner
components can allow unfiltered air into the
engine causing premature wear and failure.
Tighten or replace all loose or damaged
components.
4.2
Fuel System and Governor
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Section 5
Description
This section covers the standard carbureted fuel
system used on these engines. The governor system
used is covered at the end of this section.
WARNING: Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can explode if
ignited. Store gasoline only in approved containers, in well
ventilated, unoccupied buildings, away from sparks or flames.
Do not fill the fuel tank while the engine is hot or running,
since spilled fuel could ignite if it comes in contact with hot
parts or sparks from ignition. Do not start the engine near
spilled fuel. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
Fuel System Components
The typical carbureted fuel system and related
components include the following:
• Fuel Tank and Valve
• Fuel Lines
• In-line Fuel Filter
• Fuel Pump
• Carburetor
Operation
The fuel from the tank is moved through the in-line
filter and fuel lines by the fuel pump. On engines not
equipped with a fuel pump, the fuel tank outlet is
located above the carburetor inlet allowing gravity to
feed fuel to the carburetor.
Fuel then enters the carburetor float bowl and is
drawn into the carburetor body. There, the fuel is
mixed with air. This fuel-air mixture is then burned
in the engine combustion chamber.
Fuel Recommendations
General Recommendations
Purchase gasoline in small quantities that can be used
within 30 days and store only in clean, approved
containers. Do not use gasoline left over from the
previous season, unless treated with a fuel stabilizer
(see Storage in Section 1), to minimize gum deposits
and ensure easy starting. Do not use gasoline
containing Methanol, or add oil to the gasoline.
Do not overfill the fuel tank. Leave room for the fuel to
expand.
Fuel Type
For best results, use only clean, fresh, unleaded
gasoline with a pump sticker octane rating of 87 or
higher. In countries using the Research fuel rating
method, it should be 90 octane minimum.
Unleaded gasoline is recommended as it leaves less
combustion chamber deposits and reduces harmful
exhaust emissions. Leaded gasoline is not
recommended .
Gasoline/Alcohol blends
Gasohol (up to 10% ethyl alcohol, 90% unleaded
gasoline by volume) is approved as a fuel for Kohler
engines. Other gasoline/alcohol blends including E20
and E85 are not to be used and not approved. Any
failures resulting from use of these fuels will not be
warranted.
Gasoline/Ether blends
Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether (MTBE) and unleaded
gasoline blends (up to a maximum of 15% MTBE by
volume) are approved as a fuel for Kohler engines.
Other gasoline/ether blends are not approved.
Fuel Filter
Most engines are equipped with an in-line fuel filter.
Periodically inspect the filter and replace with a
genuine Kohler filter seasonally or every 150operating hours.
Fuel Line
These engines use Low Permeation SAE 30 R7 rated
fuel line; certified to meet emission requirements.
Standard fuel line may not be used. Order
replacement hose by part number through a Kohler
Engine Service Dealer.
5
5.1
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Fuel System T ests
When the engine starts hard, or turns over but will not start, it is possible that the problem is in the fuel
system. To find out if the fuel system is causing the problem, perform the following tests.
Troubleshooting – Fuel System Related Causes
T e stConclusion
1. Check the following:
a. Make sure the fuel tank contains clean, fresh,
proper fuel.
b. Make sure the vent in fuel tank cap is open.
c. Make sure the fuel valve is open.
d. Make sure the fuel lines to fuel pump are
secured and in good condition.
2. Check for fuel in the combustion chamber.
a. Disconnect and ground spark plug leads.
b. Close the choke on the carburetor.
c. Crank the engine several times.
d. Remove the spark plug and check for fuel at
the tip.
3. Check for fuel flow from the tank to the fuel pump.
a. Remove the fuel line from the inlet fitting of
the fuel pump.
b. Hold the line below the bottom of the tank.
Open the shut-off valve (if so equipped) and
observe flow.
4. Check the operation of the fuel pump.
a. Remove the fuel line from the inlet fitting of
the carburetor.
b. Crank the engine several times and observe
flow.
2. If there is fuel at the tip of the spark plug, fuel is
reaching the combustion chamber.
If there is no fuel at the tip of the spark plug, check
for fuel flow from the fuel tank (Test 3).
3. If fuel does flow from the line, check for faulty
fuel pump (Test 4).
If fuel does not flow from the line, check the fuel
tank cap vent, fuel pickup screen, in-line filter,
shut-off valve, and fuel line. Correct any
observed problem and reconnect the line.
4. If fuel does flow from the line, check for faulty
carburetor. (Refer to the Carburetor portions of
this section.)
If fuel does not flow from the line, check for a
clogged fuel line. If the fuel line is unobstructed,
check for overfilled crankcase and/or oil in pulse
line. If none of the checks reveal the cause of the
problem, replace the pump.
Fuel Pump
General
These engines use either a mechanical fuel pump, or
optional remote-mounted electric fuel pump
assembly. See Figures 5-1 and 5-2. Operation of the
mechanical fuel pump occurs by direct lever/pump
actuation off rocker arm movement. The pumping
action causes the diaphragm on the inside of the
pump to pull fuel in on its downward stroke and to
push it into the carburetor on its upward stroke,
internal check valves prevent fuel from going
backward through the pump.
5.2
Fuel
Pump
Figure 5-1. Mechanical Fuel Pump.
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Figure 5-2. Optional Electric Fuel Pump.
Fuel Pump - Replacement
Replacing the Mechanical Fuel Pump
The mechanical fuel pump is an integral part of the
valve cover assembly and not serviced separately. See
Figure 5-1.
1. Disconnect the fuel lines from the inlet and outlet
fittings. Note orientation.
Self-Relieving
Choke
Figure 5-3. Keihin Two-Barrel Carburetor.
Troubleshooting Checklist
When the engine starts hard, runs roughly, or stalls
at low idle speed, check the following areas before
adjusting or disassembling the carburetor.
• Make sure the fuel tank is filled with clean, fresh
gasoline.
• Make sure the fuel tank cap vent is not blocked
and that it is operating properly.
Low Idle Fuel
Adjustments
(With Limiters)
Slow Jets
Bowl Vent
Fuel Shut-Off
Solenoid
5
2. Follow the procedure for replacing the valve
cover (see Sections 8 and 10).
3. Reconnect the fuel lines to the inlet and outlet
fittings and secure with the clamps.
Carburetor
General
Engines in this series are equipped with a Keihin BK
two-barrel, side-draft carburetor with fixed main jets
on a matching intake manifold. The carburetor
features a self-relieving choke, serviceable slow jets,
main jets, bowl drain and a fuel shutdown solenoid.
See Figure 5-3.
WARNING: Explosive Fuel
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can explode if
ignited. Store gasoline only in approved containers, in well
ventilated, unoccupied buildings, away from sparks or flames.
Do not fill the fuel tank while the engine is hot or running,
since spilled fuel could ignite if it comes in contact with hot
parts or sparks from ignition. Do not start the engine near
spilled fuel. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
• Make sure fuel is reaching the carburetor. This
includes checking the fuel shut-off valve, fuel
tank filter screen, in-line fuel filter, fuel lines and
fuel pump for restrictions or faulty components
as necessary.
• Make sure the air cleaner base and carburetor
are securely fastened to the engine using gaskets
in good condition.
• Make sure the air cleaner element (including
precleaner if equipped) is clean and all air cleaner
components are fastened securely.
• Make sure the ignition system, governor system,
exhaust system, and throttle and choke controls
are operating properly.
If the engine is hard-starting, runs roughly, or stalls
at low idle speed, it may be necessary to adjust or
service the carburetor.
5.3
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Troubleshooting – Carburetor Related Causes
Condition
1. Engine starts hard, runs roughly,
or stalls at idle speed.
2. Engine runs rich (indicated by
black, sooty exhaust smoke,
misfiring, loss of speed and power,
governor hunting, or excessive
throttle opening).
Possible Cause/Probable Remedy
1. Low idle fuel mixture (some models)/speed improperly adjusted.
Adjust the low idle speed tab, then adjust the low idle fuel needle.
2a. Clogged air cleaner. Clean or replace.
b. Choke partially closed during operation. Check the choke lever/
linkage to ensure choke is operating properly.
c. Low idle fuel mixture is improperly adjusted. Adjust low idle
fuel needle (some models).
d. Float level is set too high. Adjust float according to Float
Replacement Procedure.
e. Dirt under the fuel inlet needle. Remove needle; clean needle and
seat and blow with compressed air.
f. Bowl vent or air bleeds plugged. Remove low idle fuel adjusting
needle. Clean vent, ports, and air bleeds. Blow out all passages
with compressed air.
g. Leaky, cracked or damaged float. Submerge float to check for
leaks.
3. Engine runs lean (indicated by
misfiring, loss of speed and power,
governor hunting, or excessive
throttle opening).
4. Fuel leaks from carburetor.4a. Float level set too high. See Remedy 2d.
High Altitude Operation
When operating the engine at altitudes of 1500 m
(5000 ft.) and above, the fuel mixture tends to get
over-rich. This can cause conditions such as black,
sooty exhaust smoke, misfiring, loss of speed and
power, poor fuel economy, and poor or slow governor
response.
To compensate for the effects of high altitude, special
high altitude jet kits are available. The kits include
new main jets, slow jets (where applicable), necessary
gaskets, and O-Rings. Refer to the parts manual for
the correct kit number.
b. Float level is set too low. Adjust float according to Float
Replacement Procedure.
c. Idle holes plugged; dirt in fuel delivery channels. Remove low
idle fuel adjusting needle. Clean main fuel jet and all passages;
blow out with compressed air.
b. Dirt under fuel inlet needle. See Remedy 2e.
c. Bowl vents plugged. Blow out with compressed air.
d. Carburetor bowl gasket leaks. Replace gasket.
Fuel Shut-Off
Solenoid
Fuel Shut-off Solenoid
Most carburetors are equipped with a fuel shut-off
solenoid. The solenoid is attached to the fuel bowl. See
Figure 5-4. The solenoid has a spring-loaded pin that
retracts when 12 volts is applied to the lead, allowing
fuel flow to the main jets. When current is removed
the pin extends blocking the fuel flow.
5.4
Figure 5-4. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid.
Below is a simple test, made with the engine off, that
can determine if the solenoid is functioning properly:
1. Shut off fuel and remove the solenoid from the
carburetor. When the solenoid is loosened and
removed, gas will leak out of the carburetor.
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Have a container ready to catch the fuel.
2. Wipe the tip of the solenoid with a shop towel or
blow it off with compressed air, to remove any
remaining fuel. Take the solenoid to a location
with good ventilation and no fuel vapors
present. You will also need a 12 volt power
source that can be switched on and off.
3. Be sure the power source is switched off. Connect
the positive power source lead to the red lead of
the solenoid. Connect the negative power source
lead to the solenoid body.
4. Turn the power source on and observe the pin in
the center of the solenoid. The pin should retract
with the power on and return to its original
position with the power off. Test several times to
verify operation.
Carburetor Details
The Keihin BK two-barrel carburetor is a side-draft
design. The circuits within the carburetor function as
described following:
Float Circuit:
The fuel level in the bowl is maintained by the float
and fuel inlet needle. The buoyant force of the float
stops fuel flow when the engine is at rest. When fuel is
being consumed, the float will drop and fuel pressure
will push the inlet needle away from the seat,
allowing more fuel to enter the bowl. When demand
ceases, the buoyant force of the float will again
overcome the fuel pressure, rising to the
predetermined setting and stop the flow.
Slow & Mid-Range Circuit:
At low speeds the engine operates only on the slow
circuit. As a metered amount of air is drawn through
the slow air bleed jets, fuel is drawn through the two
main jets and further metered through the slow jets.
Air and fuel are mixed in the body of the slow jet and
exit to the transfer port. From the transfer port the air
fuel mixture is delivered to the idle progression
chamber. From the idle progression chamber the air
fuel mixture is metered through the idle port
passages. At low idle when the vacuum signal is
weak, the air/fuel mixture is controlled by the setting
of the idle fuel adjusting screws. This mixture is then
mixed with the main body of air and delivered to the
engine. As the throttle plate opening increases,
greater amounts of air/fuel mixture are drawn in
through the fixed and metered idle progression holes.
As the throttle plate opens further the vacuum signal
becomes great enough so the main circuit begins to
work.
Main (High-Speed) Circuit:
At high speeds/loads the engine operates on the main
circuit. As a metered amount of air is drawn through
the four air jets, fuel is drawn through the main jets.
The air and fuel are mixed in the main nozzles and
then enter the main body of airflow, where further
mixing of the fuel and air occurs. This mixture is then
delivered to the combustion chamber. The carburetor
has a fixed main circuit; no adjustment is possible.
Carburetor Adjustments
Adjustment
NOTE: Carburetor adjustments should be made
only after the engine has warmed up.
The carburetor is designed to deliver the correct fuelto-air mixture to the engine under all operating
conditions. The main fuel jet is calibrated at the
factory and is not adjustable*. The idle fuel adjusting
needles are also set at the factory and normally do not
need adjustment.
*NOTE: Engines operating at altitudes above
approximately 1500 m (5000 ft.) may require
a special high altitude main jet. Refer to High
Altitude Operation later in this section.
If, however, the engine is hard-starting or does not
operate properly, it may be necessary to adjust or
service the carburetor.
Low Idle Speed (RPM) Adjustment
1. Low Idle Speed (RPM) Setting: Place the throttle
control in the idle or slow position. Set the low
idle speed approximately 300 RPM* less than the
intended or specified Governed Idle Speed, by
turning the low idle speed adjusting screw in or
out. Check the speed using a tachometer.
IMPORTANT: The Governed Idle Speed
Adjustment must follow any resetting of the
Low Idle Speed.
*NOTE: The actual low idle speed depends on
the application. Refer to the equipment
manufacturer’s recommendations. The
low idle speed for basic engines is
1200 RPM. To ensure best results when
setting the low idle fuel needle, the low
idle speed should be 1200 RPM (± 75RPM).
5
5.5
Loading...
+ 94 hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.