Page 1
Introduction
These instructions are designed to help you x a 19661981 vintage Kodak Carousel Slide Projector which does
not advance. If your projector is of this series, it will have a
hinged handle on the front next to the lens, like in the photo
above and will be black or grey, or it will have imitation
wood grain side panels. If your projector has a model
number that is greater than 1000, or is a 5XX series or is
an Ektagraphic III, it is NOT covered by these instructions.
The model 600 and 600H were part of this same series, but
they do not have this issue.
The “does not advance” problem
is caused by a plastic part called
the “Cycle Solenoid Link” that gets
brittle and breaks due to age.
You can conrm that your projector
has this issue by pressing the
forward and/or reverse buttons
while there is NO tray
on the projector and by
observing the Indexer
Lever (tray advance arm).
You may very well hear a
click when depressing the
buttons, but the Indexer
Lever will not move. If
your indexer lever moves,
then the issue isn’t the cycle solenoid link, but possibly a
defective slide tray. Kodak’s 140 slide trays have problems
of their own and are not recommended. Use the 80 trays.
Instructions For Fixing The
“Does Not Advance”
Dilemma with Kodak Slide Projectors
by: Curt Fargo
Tools Needed:
• #2 Phillips Screwdriver
• #1 Phillips Screwdriver
• ¼” Nut Driver
• ¼” Combination Wrench
• Hemostats
• Small Side Cutters
• Spring Hook
• Pliers
• Small Metal Block
• Small Hammer
• ¼” Socket on a Long Extension
For regular maintenance while you are in there, you will
need the following:
If you have determined that
your projector is covered by
these instructions, we need
to next determine if your
projector has remote or autofocus as a feature. This is to determine if you need to buy
the four piece repair kit with the focus gears, or just the two
piece kit. If your projector has focus gears, they will also
need to be replaced, as they are sure to be brittle.
The Carousel 650/650H & Ektagraphic E/E-2 require the
two piece kit. All other models have either remote and/or
auto-focus and require the four piece kit as shown above.
• Super Lube Grease
• Needle Applicator for the Grease
• Light Oil
When it comes to the recommended lubricants, Kodak
recommended “Super Lube” for the grease and they were
not particular on the light oil. Before going out and buying
more tools, read through these instructions and see how
they are used and you may nd something else in your
tool box that will accomplish the same task. For example,
I rarely use the combination wrench but instead use an
extra-long reach nut driver in some areas and a exible
shaft nut driver in other areas.
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Disassembly
1. Unplug the projector, then remove the projection
lens and any accessories stored in the accessories
compartment. If your projector is of the “Custom”
series (wood grain panels), see the “Custom Series
Disassembly” further on for your initial disassembly.
2. Remove the bottom cover.
You will need to remove
four Phillips screws.
Two of these are readily
visible. You will nd one
more under the lamp door
and the last under the
accessory door. Note three
of the screws will be the
same and the one that
was exposed and in the back corner is longer. You
will also have to remove the front leveling foot. This
© Curt Fargo 2017
foot is either a push on type
or held on by a visible screw.
If your projector is the style
where the lamp door stays
attached to your projector
after the bottom cover has
been removed, you will need
to close and latch it, ensuring
it is rmly closed. Failure to
close this door may lead to
your condenser lenses dropping
out and breaking.
3. Remove the accessory
compartment wall. This is held
on by three ¼” headed screws. If
you have a circuit board attached
to this wall, lift the whole wall up
and out of the way after the three
screws have been removed.
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Page 3
4. Remove the front elevating
foot bracket, which is held
on by two ¼” headed
screws.
5. Remove the focus motor
bracket if your projector
has one. This is held in by
three ¼” headed shouldered
screws. This is where the
extra-long reach ¼” nut
driver comes in handy.
6. Finish breaking o the two
focus gears, as this will help
you gain better access to the
solenoid mounting plate, not to mention that you need
to replace them later in this process.
7. Remove the solenoid mounting plate. Before doing so,
note the position of the notch on
the left and how far the plate
sticks up above the mech
housing. This solenoid mounting
plate slides up and down as an
adjustment. Putting it back
together in the same alignment
as when you took it apart will
help alleviate the need to
readjust it. Remove the two
screws that go through the
rubber grommets rst, as these are the ones that
actually go into the solenoid. Last but not least,
remove the bottom adjusting screw. Completely
remove the solenoid mounting plate from the mech.
8. Remove the solenoid plunger from the solenoid. I like
to turn the projector on its side
(forward and release buttons
facing the table) and I use the
spring hook and get the
plunger to fall downwards
towards the area where the
lenses are. I then rotate the
projector 90 degrees (counter
clockwise) so that the main
lens would be facing the table
and I shake the plunger the
rest of the way out of the projector. Before doing this,
ensure that the bracket holding your condenser lens in
is secure. Be careful to not hit or move the small auto
focus lamp if you have one.
9. Remove the plastic
link and rivet from the
plunger. I use a pair of
heavy duty small side
cutters to do this. Be
careful to not break the
link mount o of the
plunger.
Custom Series Disassembly
1. Remove the bottom cover by
unscrewing the coin-slot screw,
then pull the bottom cover o
of the hinge. The cover is just
snapped onto the hinge.
2. Remove the
side cover that
is closest to the
lens. This is held
on by three ¼”
headed screws.
One is visible by
the projection lens
area and the other
two are hidden
under the paper
bae behind the
mirror. Be careful
to not rip the paper.
3. Remove the screw that is closest to the front of the
projector which is holding the opposite side plate.
4. Remove the front cover, which is held on by two
screws going down into the top housing and one
smaller screw that is now exposed, due to the side
plate being removed.
5. Be careful with the auto-focus
control board, as the clips that
hold the wire to the board can
break. If this happens, you will
need to solder the wire to the
board.
6. Continue on with step 5 in the
previous disassembly section.
Repair & Reassembly
1. Attach the Cycle Solenoid
Link to the solenoid plunger.
Using a pair of pliers,
squeeze the rivet to secure
the link to the plunger. If
you have a rivet punch, that
is an even better way to
accomplish this.
2. Insert the plunger into the
solenoid. Using your spring
hook, hold the solenoid so
that the plunger hole is facing
out through the access. With
your hemostats, grab the
plunger by the link and insert
it into the solenoid. While still holding onto the link,
push the plunger and solenoid back into the mech
assembly. This may be a little tight but it will work. Be
sure to NOT bump up against the auto-focus lamp.
© Curt Fargo 2017www.micro-tools.com
Page 4
The auto-focus lamp can be moved around in its
socket and this is an adjustment that you don’t want to
do if you don’t have to.
3. Attach the link to the internal
arm by inserting the back
side of the fork in rst,
then pressing down on the
front side with either your
hemostat or spring hook.
4. Re-attach the solenoid mounting plate in the same
position that it was when you took it o. Attach the
plate to the mech with the adjustment screw rst.
Using your spring hook, align the solenoid so that you
can mount it to the plate with the 2 remaining collared
screws.
5. Cycle Solenoid Adjustment:
Solenoid should operate
without chatter. To adjust for
minimum noise, loosen the
adjustment screw slightly,
insert a screwdriver into the
notch and raise or lower the
solenoid mount as necessary.
Tighten the screw. If the solenoid stroke is too short,
reverse cycle will not work. There is a good chance
you will not need to do this.
6. Make sure all remnants of the old gears are removed
from the focus motor and shaft for the gear next to the
focus motor.
Service/Preventative Maintenance
1. The rst step in servicing is
to remove all the old dirt and
junk that has accumulated
inside your projector over
the past 35+ years. If your
projector has a big resistor
over the top of the fan, this is used to provide the low
setting for your lamp. If it is aking like in this photo,
just blow all the akes out and let it be. If it were
defective the only thing that wouldn’t work is the low
lamp setting. I actually blow out the projector with an
air compressor as soon as I remove the bottom cover.
2. Lubricate the fan bushing.
Remove the fan cap and
insert the tip of your grease
applicator in-between one
of the slits in the bushing.
You know you have enough
grease when it starts
coming out the other two
slits. There is one slit that will give you better access
than the other two. Re-attach the fan bushing cover.
3. Lubricate the Cam
Stack. Using your grease
applicator, apply grease to
all slots on the cam stack
and don’t forget the outside
one closest to the fan.
4. Lubricate the Worm Pulley with grease.
7. Install the 167348 gear (gear
next to focus motor). Turn the
projector onto its side again
with the forward and reverse
buttons facing toward the
table. Again, make sure your
condenser lenses are secure
so that they don’t fall out. VERY
IMPORTANT: support the back
side of the shaft with a metal
block while pressing the gear
on. Using your ¼” socket on a
long extension, with your hammer, tap the gear onto
the shaft. Yes this is a tight t but it will work.
8. Install the focus motor gear. Again
VERY IMPORTANT: support the back
end of the focus motor shaft while
installing the gear. Lightly tapping the
gear with your small hammer will get it
on.
9. Re-install the focus motor bracket.
10. Re-install the front leveling foot and
accessory compartment wall.
© Curt Fargo 2017 www.micro-tools.com
5. Lubricate the Worm Shaft Bushing (just like the fan).
6. Lubricate the Cam Stack Clutch Spring with light oil.
Spraying WD-40 in here
even works better. What you
are actually trying to do is
loosen up some old grease
that gets gummed up in here.
7. Lubricate the Main Motor.
There are 3 main styles of
Main Motors. The rst being
the one with a metal cover
that says “Bomax.” These
are not serviceable. The
other two types have plastic
covers on them. One of them is solid like pictured here
and needs the cover removed to apply oil to the pad/
sponge. Be careful to NOT break o the tabs. The last
is the most common and it has a plastic cover that has
an opening that allows direct access to apply the oil.
You know you have applied enough oil when the pad/
sponge is totally soaked (dark).
8. Reinstall the bottom cover and front leveling foot.
9. Test for proper operations.
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