Kirby Morgan 37 User Manual

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

CAUTION

Breathing System Maintenance and Repairs

Chapter 7.0

7.1 Introduction

This chapter covers the maintenance and repair of all components of the breathing system. The breathing system includes the one way valve, the emergency valve, the side block, the bent tube assembly, the demand regulator, and the oral/nasal mask.

The breathing systems on all Kirby Morgan helmets and masks are simple and highly reliable. The fact that they can continue to operate when the components are not in a well-maintained condition can cause divers to become complacent about maintenance.

Your life depends on the correct function of this equipment!

While Kirby Morgan helmets and masks are simple to maintain, like any type of life support equipment, they do require regular periodic maintena nce to f unction properly.

All parts disassembled should be thoroughly cleaned using the methods described in the Appendix in the rear of this manual. Components that require the use of lubricants, sealing and thread locking compounds should also be maintained.

Most fasteners have a torque value, it is imperative that all fasteners which have a torque value be tightened to the torque speciﬁcations as outlined by the procedure, or as listed in appendix 1. If in doubt as to the proper torque setting, contact your local authorized repair facility or KMDSI.

7.2 One Way Valve

NOTE: The one-way valve assembly should be disassembled, cleaned and the three O-rings should be replaced at least annually. Damaged and/or corroded parts should be replaced. A repair kit is available for

replacement parts (525-330).

Use two wrenches or hold the hex part of the body in a vise while removing or turning the seat with a wrench. Do not use pliers on the main body of the oneway valve. You may damage the valve if pliers are used.

7.2.1 Disassembly Of The One Way Valve

Tools Required: Soft Jaw Vice 1 inch Open End Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench (If no vise is available use a backup 1 inch open end wrench)

To disassemble and inspect the one way valve assembly:

1) The one way valve assembly must be removed from the side block. Use the open end wrench to remove it.

2) After the one way valve has been removed, use two wrenches or hold the hex part of the body in a soft jaw vise while removing the seat with a wrench.

As the seat is removed, the wiper and the O-ring will slide out in place in a groove on the seat. The

WARNING

Correct assembly order of the one way valve.

Adapter

Seat

Wiper

O-ring

Poppet

Spring

Body

O-ring

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poppet and the poppet O-ring usually come out in the seat being followed by the spring.

The only functional part remaining in the valve body is a non-moving, pressed-in cage. The function of the cage is to prevent the poppet O-ring from blowing out of place during high ﬂows. Do not remove the pressed in cage. This can only be done at the factory.

3) Inspect the body interior for foreign matter of any type and clean, if necessary. Clean in accordance with the cleaning instructions in Chapter 6. If corrosion is present, clean using the acidic solution as outlined in Chapter 6.

4) Inspect the seat, wiper, O-ring, poppet O-ring and poppet for wear, replace if necessary. Be sure each part is clean and all components are lightly lubricated with the appropriate lubricant. A repair kit is available for replacement parts. (Part #525-330)

5) Be careful to wipe the poppet and poppet O-ring thoroughly, removing nearly all silicone to prevent foreign materials from sticking to these components.

6) Replace the spring.

seat. Thread the seat into the valve body.

4) Tighten the seat to 150 inch lbs. (17 Newton meters) with a torque wrench while holding the body in a soft jaw vice or wrench.

5) If the adapter has been removed, it must be cleaned and wrapped with Teﬂon tape.

Do not allow any Teﬂon tape to cover the end of the adapter, or to enter the oneway valve. Loose pieces of Teﬂon tape can interfere with the performance of the one-way valve or the regulator and may block the diver’s air supply. This could lead to death through suffocation.

6) Test the operation of the valve.

7) Place the new O-ring on the end of the one way valve assembly and reinstall the valve assembly in the side block. Tighten to 150 inch lbs. (270 kg.cm.) with a torque wrench.

7.2.2 Reassembly of the One Way Valve

1) Slide the new O-ring over the poppet.

2) Insert the new spring into the valve body, followed by the poppet.

3) Next, install the new O-ring and new wiper on the

Tighten to 150 inch lbs. (17 Newton Meters) with a torque wrench.

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7.3 Side Block Assembly

7.3.1 General

The side block should be overhauled at least annually, or whenever components show signs of wear, damage or do not function smoothly or properly. Minimum replacement components during overhaul includes all O-rings. A repair kit is available for replacement parts (Part #525-311).

The side block does not require removal from the helmet each time an overhaul is being conducted providing inspection of the internal passages does not reveal contamination or excessive corrosion. However, the side block should be completely removed at least every three years of active use to ensure fasteners are not corroded or frozen.

The side block assembly is held in place on the helmet shell by a stud, ﬂat washer, lock washer, nut, and a mach ine screw. T he screw does some securing but its main function is to prevent rotation of the side block. The stud also extends into the interior of the helmet shell far enough to secure the air train by means of the washer and nut.

The air train cup that ﬁts over the stud is made of soft brass and cannot be used for a bearing surface to mount the side block. RTV silicone rubber compound is used to form a gas tight seal between the side block and the exterior of the helmet shell.

7.3.2 Side Block Assembly Removal

Tools Required: 7/16,11/16, and 7/8 inch Open End Wrenches 11/16 and 7/8 inch Open End Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Stubby Screwdriver

Loosening the bent tube from the side block.

7.3.3 Separating the Side Block Assembly from the Helmet Shell

Tools Required: Putty Knife 7/16 inch Open End Wrench 1/4 inch Flat Blade Stubby Screwdriver

1) Removal of the side block assembly requires removing the air train.

2) Remove the nut and washer that secure the air train, then the air train itself.

3) The st ud nut is remove d next, with the lock washer and ﬂat washer.

The bent tube assembly must be ent irely removed before removal of the side block assembly is started.

1) Completely unscrew the bent tube assembly nut (14) from the side block.

2) Using two wrenches, hold the nut at the regulator end of the bent tube assembly with the ﬁrst wrench. With the other wrench, loosen the jam nut (100) by turning the wrench DOWN.

3) Unscrew the bent tube nut until it comes free, then pull the bent tube assembly straight out of the regulator inlet nipple.

4) The side block assembly is ready to be separated from the helmet shell at this time.

Loosening the nut that holds the air train.

4) Next, the alignment screw is removed.

NOTE: The alignment screw is located in a recess in the ﬁberglass next to the stud. This recess is normally ﬁlled with RTV. The RTV must be scraped free to reveal the screw.

Knob

Spring

Washer

Locknut

Bonnet

Valve stem

O-ring

Washer

Side block

Stud

Bent tube

Seat

Plug

O-ring

Air Train

Air Train Gasket

A thin putty knife helps to remove the side block.

5) The side block assembly is now unfastened, but held in place by the rubber sealing compound (silicone sealant) that acts as a glue. It may be necessary to rock just slightly, or pry the side block from the helmet shell. A thin putty knife can be pushed between the side block and the helmet shell to help free it.

Do not use a screwdriver or chisel as damage to the shell could result. Be sure to peel or scrape the

old silicone sealant away from both sealing surfaces before reassembling. Acetone helps remove this, but must be used sparingly since it will also remove the

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

ﬂat black ﬁnish inside the helmet.

6) If you plan to rebuild the side block assembly, it should be done at th is ti me, while the side block is off the helmet. Overhaul the defogger valve and emergency va lve i n accordance wit h th is chapter. O verhau l the one-way valve in accordance with this chapter.

7.3.4 Side Block Assembly Replacement

If a new side block is being installed, make sure it aligns correctly in the holes of the helmet shell before applying RTV silicone sealant.

1) A generous application of silicone sealant must be applied to the side block prior to installation on the helmet shell. The sealant should surround the stud, alignment screw, and air inlet on the block. Use only Dow Corning work must be done a well-ventilated area.

Care must be taken to avoid sealant entering the air opening in the side block. Be sure to remove all excess silicone sealant before it sets up. Lacquer thinner can be used to dissolve uncured sealant, after tightening.

2) Fit the side block to the helmet shell.

2) Thread the screw through the helmet shell and lightly tighten into the side block body.

™ RTV 732 Multi Purpose sealant. This

Components of the Side Block & Air Train

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

WARNING

Use silicone sealant in a well ventilated area. Do not breathe the fumes from uncured silicone sealant. These fumes are dangerous and can cause uncon-

sciousness. They can also cause long term damage to body tissue. Read and follow all precautions listed on the silicone sealant tube and Material Safety Data Sheet.

DO NOT BLOCK AIR OPENING!

If it is, it must be cleaned out prior to diving.

Do not dive the helmet until the sealant has had time to cure. Check the directions on the tube of sealant for curing time. If the helmet goes into the water before the sealant has cured it could leak through the side block mounting stud hole, screw hole, or air ﬂow hole. This could lead to drowning.

If silicone sealant is blocking the air ﬂow into the helmet it must be cleaned out. If it is not, the diver may not be able to properly defog the helmet or clear a ﬂooded helmet quickly. In addition, if the demand regulator is not delivering air properly, the diver cannot use the free ﬂow system as a source of breathing air. This could lead to suffocation.

A generous application of silicone sealant must be applied to the side block prior to installation on the helmet shell. Use only Dow Corning™ RTV 732 Multi Purpose sealant.

3) Slide the ﬂat washer and the lock washer onto the stud. Run the stud nut down the stud and tighten to 35 inch pounds (4 Newton meters). Do not over- tighten!

4) Tighten the screw to the correct torque, 35 inch pounds. Clean off all excess silicone sealant.

5) Place the air train gasket on the base of the air train. The knob on the base of the air train gasket is designed to cover the recessed hole where the bolt that helps maintain the position of the air train is installed. Slip the air train over the stud. Align the air train with the upper edge of the view port opening in the helmet shell.

6) Place the washer on the stud and tighten the nut until the washer lays ﬂush on the air train, 15 inch pounds. Do not overtighten!

Avoid breathing fumes from lacquer thinner and use in a well ventilated area. Breathing fumes can lead to nervous system damage, unconsciousness, and death.

Avoid skin contact with lacquer thinner. Wear rubber gloves. Lacquer thinner can damage the nervous system.

Avoid eye contact with lacquer thinner. This chemical is an irritant and may cause tissue damage.

7) Test the side block prior to diving to ensure that no silicone sealant is blocking the air ﬂow to the helmet.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

7.4 Defogger Valve

7.4.1 Disassembly of the Defogger Valve

Tools Required: 3/8 inch Slotted Flat Blade Screwdriver 13/16 inch Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench

The defogger valve components are disassembled as follows:

1) First, unscrew the control knob lock nut and remove the spring, control knob, and washer.

2) Next, unscrew the bonnet. Its o-ring will come off with it. The valve stem, o-ring, and washer usually come out with the bonnet and can be pushed out of the bonnet once removed from the side block.

3) If the stem remains in the side block body it can be lifted out after the bonnet is removed.

4) The seat a ssembly can be unscrewed from the side block body with the stem or a screwdriver.

7.4.2 Cleaning and Lubricating

1) Clean all the metal ﬁrst in the soapy water solution and then in a 50/50 dilute solution of white vinegar/ water. Rinse in fresh water.

2) Check the Teﬂon

se at for wear a nd /or conta mination, and replace if necessary. Damage such as a rough face or cuts to the seat indicate it must be replaced.

3) The Teﬂon

washer and O-ring must be replaced

if worn.

Remove the defogger control knob.

The valve stem usually comes out with the bonnet.

4) Be sure to place a light coating of silicone grease on all internal moving parts, O-rings, and washers. However, do not lubricate the Teﬂon

seat, as this will

attract dust and debris.

5) Inspect the seat area inside the side block and replace the block if damaged.

Clean all the metal parts to remove salts.

The seat should be removed for inspection.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

Side Block

Helmet shell

Air Train

Air Train Gasket

Stud

Bolt

Bent Tube

LP Plug

Seat

Valve Stem

Bonnet

Washer

Knob

Spring

Nut

Teflon washer

O-ring

The Side Block assembly and it’s associated parts.

7.4.3 Reassembly of the Defogger Valve

Tools Required: 3/8 inch Slotted Flat Blade Screwdriver 13/16” Open End Attachment on Torque Wrench Minimum recommended replacement parts during overhaul: Washers, O-rings

1) Screw in the new seat assembly until it is even with the front of the side block body.

2) Next, install the Teﬂon the stem.

3) Insert the proper end of the stem into the seat assembly and turn clockwise until the seat lightly bottoms out. Leave the stem in place.

4) Lubricate the O-ring and install on the bonnet.

5) Slide the bonnet over the stem and thread the bon-

washer and O-ring onto

net into the side block.

6) Tighten the bonnet with a torque wrench to 100 inch lbs.

7) Place the new Teﬂon on t he stem and rot ate t he stem counterclockwise until the seat assembly tops out fully open. The control knob must turn smoothly without any binding.

washer and the cont rol knob

Binding (or “hard spots”) in the rotation could be an indication of a bent stem that should be replaced. Replace the knob and or stem if the ﬁt allows the valve to rotate loosely more than 1/8

8) Install the new Teﬂon the spring, and locknut. Tighten the locknut until it is ﬂush with the knob.

of a turn.

washer, new knob, and

7.5 Emergency Valve Assembly

WARNING

The Emergency valve control knob is not interchangeable with the defogger valve control knob.

The control knob for the emergency valve and the defogger knob are not interchangeable. Use only the correct knob for the appropriate valve.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

7.5.1 Disassembly of the Emergency Valve

Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open End Wrench 1 inch Open-end Wrench Torque Wrench Attachments & Torque Wrench 3/8 inch Slotted Flat Blade Screwdriver Soft Jaw Vice Lubricant Teﬂon Tape

1) Remove the lock nut, spring, and knob.

2) Undo the packing nut, and remove the packing, and washer.

3) When the packing nut is free of the threads of the emergency valve body, back out the stem until it is free of the emergency valve body.

Remove the valve stem.

7.5.2 Cleaning and Lubricating

1) Clean all the metal parts in a soap and water solution, followed by cleaning with a 50 /50 dilute solution of white vinega r/water. Rinse with fresh water. Clean all parts. See the cleaning instructions in Chapter 6.

2) Inspect the packing and washer for wear and replace if necessary. Normally the packing will last a very long time and does not require replacement as long as the valve operates smoothly and does not leak. To replace the packing place the packing nut in a vise and carefully work the packing out with a small screw driver, taking care not to damage the threads of the packing nut. Replace the washer if needed.

3) Inspect the stem seat for unevenness or wear and replace if necessary. It must also be replaced if the stem is bent. Damage will include damaged threads, rounded ﬂats that engage the control knob. Also inspect the shaft to ensure the conical seat surface is smooth and free of corrosion or damage.

Remove the lock nut, spring and knob.

Inspect the packing and washer.

4) Check the seat in the emergency valve body for wear or unevenness, galling and corrosion. Check the seat on the emergency valve stem. To clean up the seat surface use a pencil eraser to buff the surface. Inspect all threaded surfaces for damage. Replace the emergency valve body if any damage is found.

Undo the packing nut.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

Valve Body

Valve Stem

Packing nut

Knob

Spring

Lock nut

Packing

Washer

5) To remove the emergency valve body from the side block the one way valve assembly must ﬁrst be removed.

6) If the emergency valve body was removed, clean and inspect the pipe thread and inspect for damaged threads, cracking or distortion. Replace the emergency valve if any damage is present.

Re-tape threads with Teﬂon tape, 11/2 wraps starting two threads back, tighten using good engineering practice. To reinstall the emergency valve body onto the side block, the one-way valve assembly must be removed ﬁrst.

7.5.3 Reassembly of Emergency Valve

1) Lightly lubricate the stem threads in the body as well as the bonnet threads.

2) Replace the washer and packing on the stem , then lightly lubricate the stem shaft and threads.

NOTE: There are two different packing (s) and washers supplied in the kit (525-311), for rebuilding both the older style and the newer high ﬂow emergency gas valve. Match the removed packing and washers to the new ones supplied and discard the others.

3) Holding these components in place on the stem, screw the stem into the emergency gas valve body.

Installing the packing nut on the valve stem.

4) Rotate the stem until it is seated all the way in then, back it out -1/2 turn.

5) T

hread the packing nut onto the emergency valve body. Run the nut in and tighten slightly with a wrench.

6) Inspect the emergency gas valve knob for wear and damage. Ensure the ﬂats that engage the valve stem shaft are not rounded, cracked or damaged. The valve knob should not have rotational play greater than 1/8th of a turn.

NOTE: This knob is not interchangeable with the defogger valve knob.

7) Place the emergency gas valve knob onto the stem

The emergency valve

WARNING

The control knob for the emergency

WARNING

valve and the defogger knob are not interchangeable. Use only the correct knob for the appropriate valve.

and rotate the stem all the way out, then back again. The rotation must be smooth. If “hard spots” or unevenness are felt during the rotation, the stem may be bent and could need replacement.

8) Tighten t he pack ing nut with a torque wrench until moderate resistance is felt when turning the knob. Torque to 50 inch pounds after seating.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

the ﬁrst thread. Apply the tape with slight tension to allow the tape to ﬁll into the threads.

Hand tighten the valve, then continue an additional 1-1/2 to 2 turns with a wrench keeping in mind the proper alignment of the control knob to the side block. Also, there should be at least one male thread visible. Check to be certain the valve is tight by trying to loosen the ﬁt by hand.

DO NOT TIGHTEN TH

AN NECESSARY! OVERSTRESS THE PART AND CAUSE THE PART TO FAIL.

THE VALVE BODY TIGHTER

OVER TIGHTENING MAY

9) Place the spring, and locknut onto the stem securing the knob.

10) Tighten the locknut until its top is ﬂush with the top of the knob. The assembly is now complete and ready for testing.

NOTE: If the valve was removed from the side block testing of the emergency gas valve is easily accomplished by attaching the valve, by itself in the shut position, on to the bail-out whip from the ﬁrst stage. Pressurized to a minimum 135 p.s.i.g. (9.3 bar) using the EGS Cylinder and dropping it into a bucket of clean water a minimum 30 seconds to check for leaks.

11) Before wrapping the threads with pipe tape, check the ﬁt of the valve assembly pipe threads to the mating threads of the side block. There should be 2 turns of hand make up before needing to use a wrench.

Use only thin Teﬂon tape when installing the Emergency Gas Supply valve in the side block. Thick tape can lead to thread damage, which may make it impossible to install the EGS valve in the side block properly. This could lead to a loss of breathing gas.

If there is less make up, then the threads will need to be chased with a 1/4” NPT tap to obtain the proper make up. If thread chasing is required, the bent tube assembly, the one way valve assembly and steady ﬂow components must all be removed and the side block body must be thoroughly cleaned to remove any loose particles.

12) Before installing the valve assembly, wrap the pipe threads with 1-1/2 turns of Teﬂon tape starting after

It is NOT necessary to have the control knob for the emergency gas supply valve perfectly “square,” i.e., at a 90 degree angle to the side block. Any angle is acceptable provide d t hat 1) the valve handle ca n b e tu r ned easily and 2) the diver can locate the handle easily.

7.5.4 Leak Testing the EGS Valve

a) Attach supply whip from the EGS ﬁrst stage to EGS helmet valve.

b) Ensure the defogger valve knob is open and the EGS Valve is shut.

c) Pressurize EGS Valve to a minimum of 135 p.s.i.g. (9.3 bar) using the EGS cylinder as supply. Allow system pressure to stabilize, and then shut the EGS supply cylinder valve. Note time and ﬁnal stabilized system pressure.

d) Perform the leak check for minimum of ﬁve minutes, using the mild soapy solution, per Chapter 6. Ensure there is no gas ﬂowing or pressure drop in the system. There should be no visible signs of external leakage if the valve is operating properly.

A leaking Emergency Gas Valve assembly can cause the diver to exhaust his entire EGS (bailout) without his knowledge. This may lead the diver to mistakenly assume his EGS supply is available when it is not. This could lead to panic or drowning in an emergency. Any worn or damaged components must be replaced. A submersibl e pressure gaug e should always be used with the EGS system to help minimize this risk.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

WARNING

7.6 Bent Tube Assembly

7.6.1 General

The bent tube assembly provides breathing gas ﬂow from t he side block assembly to t he regu lator assembly on the Kirby Morgan 37. Both ends of the bent tube assembly disconnect for complete removal. The Oring and the Teﬂon O-ring should be replaced during normal overhauls or any time these components are deemed unserviceable.

These components do not require replacement during ﬁeld repairs providing a careful visual inspection does not reveal wear or damage. All soft goods should be carefully cleaned in accordance with Chapter 6 prior to inspection for reuse.

7.6.2 Removal of the Bent Tube Assembly

Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open-end Attachment on Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open-end Attachment on Torque Wrench 7/8 inch Open-end Wrench

1) Always start removal of the bent tube at the side block end. The free swiveling mount nut on this end of the bent tube can be unthreaded completely and can slide down the tube.

2) The inlet nipple has a jam nut that locks the mount nut in place. With one wrench, hold the bent tube mount nut. With another wrench, turn DOWN the jam nut, backing it away from the mount nut. The mount nut can then be rotated until free of the regulator inlet nipple threads. It can be pushed up the bent tube.

3) With the two mount nuts free; the bent tube assembly can b e pul led straight out of the regulator in let nipple. The bent tube assembly can be rotated back and forth to aid removal.

7.6.3 Inspection of Bent Tube Assembly

Clean the bent tube in accordance with Chapter 6. The O-ring at the regulator end should be clea ned and inspected whenever the bent tube is removed.

Replace the bent tube if it is excessively scratched dented or compressed deeper than 1/8 inch. If the helmet has been used for burning jobs, carefully check for erosion of the metal or severe corrosion. Replace if any erosion is present or integrity is in question. Keep in mind the bent tube is a critical component that routs breathing gas to the helmet systems.

Always start removal at the side block end.

Loosening the jam nut.

Replace the O-ring on the bent tube if it is worn or damaged.

Do not wrap the bent tube with tape, ropework, springs, hose wrap, or other items. This will prevent daily inspection of the bent tube. In addition, some of these items may trap moisture, which could lead to corrosion and failure of the bent tube.

If the tube fails, this could lead to a rapid depletion of the diver’s breathing gas supply. This could lead to serious personal injury or death.

7.6.4 Installation of the Bent Tube Assembly

Tools Required: 11/16 inch Open-end Torque Wrench Attachment 7/8 inch Open-end Torque Wrench Attachment 7/8 inch Open-end Wrench Normal minimum replacement parts during overhaul: O-ring, Teﬂon

ring

1) Lightly lubricate the bent tube O-ring and install in the O-ring groove at the regulator end of the bent tube, then install new Teﬂon® O-ring at the side block end.

2) Push the regulator end of the bent tube assembly into the inlet nipple. Slide it in until the side block end of the tube is aligned with the threads for the mount nut.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

3) Be sure the Teﬂon

O-ring is in place on the side block end of the bent tube, then engage the threads on the tube to the side block and hand tighten.

4) Start the “regulator to bent tube” mount nut onto the inlet nipple of the demand regulator and run it in by hand as far as it will go.

NOTE: Run the mount nut up on the inlet nipple hand tight only.

5) Using a torque w rench, t ight en t he bent tube assembly mount nut onto the side block to (100 inch lbs).

6) Hold the mount nut on the end of the bent tube with a wrench and tighten the jam nut against it with a torque wrench to 40 inch pounds.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

7.7 SuperFlow 350 Demand Regulator

7.7.1 General Regulator Information

While the regulator systems on all K irby Morgan helmets a re simple a nd h ighly rel iable, the breat hing resistance will increase if the demand regulator on your helmet is not maintained or adjusted properly. The demand regulator must receive regular maintenance to assure the best performance possible. However, in the event the demand regulator is damaged, there is always a backup supply of steady ﬂow gas available from the defogger valve.

If the regulator does not breathe easily, the diver cannot work hard and will tire rapidly. Simply put: If the demand regulator does not work properly the diver cannot work properly. This makes the maintenance of the demand regulator assembly essential.

For the gas inlet valve and adjustment system to operate properly, the components in the demand regulator MUST be in good condition and MUST be periodically inspected and adjusted.

Four special tools, the inlet valve holder (Part #525-

616), the regulator adjustment wrench (Part #525-611), the socket wrench (Part #525-612), and the castle wrench (Part #525-618) should be used to work on the SuperFlow 350 regulator whenever possible.

Disassembly, assembly, and adjustment can be done without these tools, but the work is much easier and the adjustment is better if these tools are used. The above 4 tools are available together along with a tool case. The “Tool Kit with Pouch” is Part #525-620. This kit is included with each new Kirby Morgan helmet that is equipped with the SuperFlow 350 regulator.

7.7.2 SuperFlow 350 Demand Regulator Test for Correct Adjustment, Fully Assembled

To maintain optimum performance of the demand regulator, it should be checked for proper function and adjustment prior to commencement of diving each diving day, in accordance with the KMDSI Daily Set Up and Functional Checklist. See the Dive Lab website (www.divelab.com) for the latest procedures for set-up.

Check the regulator for adjustment and proper function with the assembly complete, and supplied with a breathing gas supply pressure of 135 to 150 p.s.i.g.

NOTE: 135 to 150 p.s.i.g. over ambient is the standard supply pressure to be used when adjusting all KMDSI helmets and band-mask equipped with the SuperFlow 350 regulator. See Section 2.5 for recommended pressures during use.

NOTE: When storing the helmet for any length of time, ensure that the regulator adjustment knob is turned “out ” fully cou nterclockwise to avoid st ressing the bias springs. This will prolong the life of both the inlet valve, seat, and bias springs.

1) Rotate the regulator adjustment knob in, towards the regulator body.

2) Ensure the supply pressure is connected and properly adjusted to 135 to 150 p.s.i.g.

3) Turn on the gas supply.

4) Rotate the adjustment knob out counterclockwise slowly, until a slight steady ﬂow develops.

5) Slowly rotate the adjustment knob in clockwise, until the free ﬂow stops. Lightly depress the purge button several times and ensure the gas ﬂow has stopped.

6) Lightly depress the purge button. There should be bet ween 1/16” and 1/ 8” free travel i n the button before gas ﬂow starts. When the button is fully depressed, a strong surge of gas must be heard.

7) If the purge button travels less than 1/16” or greater than 1/8” before free ﬂow is heard, the demand regulator requires internal adjustment, per this chapter.

Tool Kit with pouch - Part #525-620.

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

WARNING

7.7.3 Inspection of SuperFlow 350 Regulator Body Interior

Tools Required:

1/4 inch Flat Blade Attachment on Torque Screwdriver

Remove the demand regulator clamp.

1) Remove the demand regulator clamp by removing the clamp screw.

2) Lift off the regulator cover and diaphragm.

3) Clean the diaphragm with the soapy solution, per Chapter 6 and wipe dry. Inspect the diaphragm for holes, tears or any signs of deterioration by holding it up to a white light and stretching and pulling. Check for a good bond between the metal disc and the silicone. Replace diaphragm if any doubt exists.

NOTE: Older regulator clamps, when properly torqued, had a gap of approximately 1/32” to 1/16” between the retaining clamp surfaces when fully tightened. All new clamps when properly torqued, have little or no gap between the retaining clamp surfaces.

7.7.4 SuperFlow 350 Demand Regulator Bias Adjustment Servicing, Demand Regulator on the Helmet

Note: This procedure should be used when replacing the O-ring on the adjustment shaft and or cleaning and lubricating the shaft threads during ﬁeld repairs of the demand regulator on the helmet. Start at the adjustment knob end of the regulator:

To ols Required: 3/4 inch Open-end Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench 3/32 inch Punch & Small Block of Wood Ball-Peen Hammer Regulator Adjustment Tool Kit, Part #525-620 Torque Wrench

1) Unscrew the regulator adjustment knob until it stops. If the knob wobbles as you turn it, or is extremely hard to turn, the shaft is bent and needs to be replaced.

4) Inspect the interior of the demand regulator body for damage, corrosion and cleanliness. Clean the interior of the regulator body if necessary per Chapter

6) Reinstall the diaphragm, cover, and clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to the recommended torque to 12 inch pounds using a torque screwdriver.

Use only replacement diaphragms manufactured by Kirby Morgan. Use of other diaphragms may degrade performance and may cause increased breathing resistance. This can lead to fatigue and the inability to work at full capacity.

Screw the regulator adjustment knob out for removal.

2) Loosen the nut, then rotate the adjustment knob counterclockwise until the adjustment knob and the adjustment shaft are free.

3) Remove the spacer, springs, and piston. At this point the threads can be cleaned and lubricated as well as the adjustment shaft.

4) Punch out the roll pin using a 3/32 punch. Use a block of wood with a 1/4” hole drilled through it to support the knob. Position the knob so the roll pin

Kirby Morgan 37 & 57

Shake out the spacer, spring set, and piston.

is over the hole. The adjustment knob can be held against the wood block allowing the roll pin to be driven into the 1/4” hole.

5) Remove the adjustment knob, the washer and Oring.

Inspect the washer and o-ring.

9) Inspect the inside of the adjustment tube on the regulator body to be sure there is no corrosion and the adjustment assembly can travel freely. Ensure the alignment t ube is not bent or misaligned from impact, and that the threads are clean.

NOTE: If the inside of the adjustment tube is corroded, this indicates saltwater intrusion into the adjustment tube and assembly. The demand regulator requires removal from the helmet and cleaning per this Chapter.

7.7.5 Reassembly of the SuperFlow 350 Regulator Adjustment System

Tools Required:

3/4 inch Open-end Wrench Attachment on Torque Wrench Silicone grease, or oxygen compatible grease if used for oxygen service.

NOTE: If the spacer and the spring set are stuck, this could indicate corrosion or possible saltwater intrusion into the adjustment tube and assembly, or that the adjustment tube is bent. The demand regulator should be removed from the helmet and cleaned and inspected, per this Chapter..

6) Carefully inspect all parts for corrosion, paying particular attention to threaded surfaces and the spring set. Clean and lightly lubricate parts per the instructions in this chapter.

NOTE: Carefully inspect the adjustment shaft to ensure it is straight, Check for damaged threads. Replace the adjustment shaft if any damage is found. Replace the O-ring.

7) Replace washer.

8) Replace the O-ring.

1) Lightly lubricate the piston and spacer and place the piston back in the regulator adjustment tube, followed by the spring set, and spacer.

2) Lightly lubricate the adjustment shaft end and threads, install the washer and the lightly lubricated O-ring on the adjustment shaft.

3) Slip the packing nut over the adjustment shaft followed by the adjustment knob.

4) Hold the shaft and rotate the knob until the pin holes line up. Use the inlet valve holder from the regulator tool kit to accurately align these holes. Using a small hammer drive the retaining pin back into place, until it is ﬂush with the surface of the adjustment knob.

5) Screw the adjustment knob assembly clockwise back into the regulator body leaving enough packing nut exposed to get the wrench on it.

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Kirby Morgan 37 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual