Kenmore 17922 User Manual

Model 17920

17921
17922

OWNER'S
MANUAL

Sewing Machine

TABLE OF CONTEIMTS

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Machine identification..................................................1-2

Setting your machine...................................................3-4

Foot control, Light/power switch, Electronic
needle control. Maximum speed control.

Accessory box

Parts list.......................................................................5 - 6

Spool pins and caps
Converting to free-arm sewing

Winding the bobbin
Threading the bobbin case
Threading top thread

Picking up bobbin thread

CONTROLS

Thread tension control..................................................12

Stitch selector and indicator. Stitch width control.... 13

Stitch length control, Reverse stitch lever

Stitch modifier............................................................. 14

Buttonhole control. Pressure regulator.........................15

Seam guides, Presserfoot lever
ACCESSORIES

Needles, Placement of needle
Needle, thread and fabric chart, Presser feet
Even feed foot. Adjustable holder

Edgestitcher, Quilting guide..........................................19

Needle plates. Feed cover plate...................................20

CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle

Oiling

.......................................................................

Changing light bulb.......................................................23

CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS.. .24 - 25

2. STARTING TO SEW ...................................................26

Machine setting chart

Straight stitching......................................................29-32

Fastening a seam. Turning asquare corner.
Removing fabric. Darning, Temporary sewing
by machine. Zipper application - cording. Narrow
hemming. Quilting

Zigzag stitching........................................................33 - 35

Overcasting, Satin stitching. Bar tacking,
Appliqueing, Embroidery, Monogramming,

Button sewing

Blind hemming..............................................................36

Stretch stitches........................................................37-39

Recommendation, Adjusting stitch balance,

Straight stretch stitch. Rick-rack stretch.

Feather stretch. Smocking stretch. Elastic

stretch. Overcast stretch, Paris point stretch
Buttonhole making

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22-23

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27-28

40-46

11

17

21

7
7
8
9

10

14

15
16
18

■1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINEi

IDENTIFICATION CHART

FRONT VIEW

13^

toiling *

z_

®-

®-

®-

t

®-

1.

Needle plate
Feed dogs

2.
Bobbin window

3.
Presser foot

4.

5. Needle clamp screw
Presser foot thumb screw

6.

7. Thread guide
Check spring

8.
Face cover

9.
Top thread tension control

10.
Threading channel

11.
Slotted take-up lever

12.
Bobbin winder tension disc

13.

14.1Built-in buttonhole control

liBIB

Bobbin winder shaft

15.
Bobbin winder latch

16.

17. Stitch width dial
Stitch indicator

18.
Stitch selector

19.
Reverse stitch lever

20.
Stitch length dial

21.
Needle up/down switch

22.
Basting switch

23.

24. Maximum speed control
Bobbin cover plate

25.
Accessory box

26.
Buttonholer/accessory box

27.
Owner's manual

28.

BACK VIEW

\ ihi

(

J
J
J

V

(

Electric cord receptacle 39.

29.
Light/power switch

30.
Nomenclature plate

31.
Stitch modifier

32.
Hand wheel/push-pull clutch 43.

33.

34. Telescoping spool pin
Foldaway carrying handle

35.

40.

41.

42.

44. Foot pedal

45.

36. Rear thread guide 46.

37.

Swing-away spool pin
Presser foot lever

38.

47.

48.

Presser foot release lever

Thread cutter

Foot control
Pedal lock knob

Cord receptacle

Foot control cord
Machine plug
Power-line plug
Foot control plug

SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE

1. Install your Kenmore sewing machine in a
Kenmore cabinet, case or set the machine
on a sturdy flat surface.

2. Your Kenmore sewing machine has been
thoroughly oiled at the factory. Be sure to

wipe off the needle plate area and bed
plate carefully before sewing a garment.
It is wise to practice on a scrap of fabric
so any surplus oil is absorbed.

3. FOOT CONTROL

Your machine is supplied with an
electronic foot control which enables you
to sew very slowly. Even at low speed you

have extra power for the needle to

penetrate through several thicknesses of

fabric. Faster speeds are also easily

controlled.

1. Pull out the foot control from its

storage position under the free arm.
(Fig. 1)

2. Slide pedal lock knob to the right and
the foot pedal will pop up to its
operating position. Push foot control
plug into the cord receptacle on the
foot control. (Fig. 2)

Pedal lock knob

Foot

Fig. 2

3. Push machine plug into the cord

receptacle at the rear side of the

machine. Then connect power-line

plug into any 110-120 volt A.C. wall
outlet. (Fig. 2)

4. LIGHT/POWER SWITCH

Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. This
same switch controls the machine power,

sewing light and indicator lights on the

stitch indicator panel and electronic
needle control. If you are interrupted or
stop sewing, turn off the switch.

ELECTRONIC NEEDLE CONTROL

Your machine is electronically controlled
to stop with the needle in the up position
every time you remove pressure from foot
control.

NEEDLE UP/DOWN SWITCH

When you want to lower the needle, push
the left switch and the needle will move to
the down position with red light turned
on. Push it again or activate the foot
control and the light will disappear to
indicate the cancellation of needle down
position and the needle will move back to
the up position.

BASTING SWITCH

Tap the foot control with the right switch
pushed and lighted and the machine will
take one stitch only and stop with needle

in the up position. This feature provides
an electronically controlled basting or
tacking to take the chore out of hand
basting.

MAXIMUM SPEED CONTROL

You may want to vary the speed of the

machine, sewing slowly in special tight

places or if you are a new seamstress.
This control can be moved to the left to
slow the sewing of the machine. To

increase to the maximum speed, slide the
control to the right.

Electronic needle
control

Maximum speed
control

7. ACCESSORY BOX

Accessory box is opened by lifting the lid

up and swinging it toward you as shown.

Inside you will find many of the acces

sories that you use each time you sew.

The box may be fully removed from the

machine to convert it for free arm

stitching. See page 8.

PARTS LIST (Use only genuine Kenmore replacement parts and accessories.)

PRESSER FEET

Straight Stitch Standard Zigzag Satin Stitch

(No. 45171) (No. 44985) (No. 44988)

Zipper Foot

(No. 6759)

Plastic Satin Stitch

(No. 57978)

Blind Hem Foot

(No. 6886)

Zipper Foot
(No. 59090)

BUTTONHOLE ACCESSORIES

Overcasting

(No. 35094)

Overcasting

(No. 57983)

Plastic Satin

Stitch (No. 43776)

Straight Stitch

(No 57976)

Blind Hem Foot * Even Feed Foot

(No. 57986) (No. 6888)

“Q FOOT”
(No. 6843)

Standard Zigzag

(No. 57975)

* Included in the buttonholer box

■■QSKT"..

(No. 6858)

Satin Stitch
(No. 57977)

Built-in Buttonhole Guide

Foot (No. 43840)

Buttonhole Cover

Plate (No. 60753)

Built-in Buttonhole Guide

Foot (No. 57984)

Buttonhole Foot

(No. 41040)

Buttonhole Guideplate

(No. 58232)

Buttonhole Foot

(No. 57979)

Buttohole Templates

No. 1 Part 45195
No. 2 Part 45196
No. 3 Part 45197
No. 4 Part 45198
No. 5 Part 45199

Buttonhole Opener

(No. 6830)

OTHER VITAL ITEMS

Zigzag

Needleplate
(No. 57860)

Narrow Hemmer

(No. 29396)

Bobbin Winder

Rubber Ring

(No. 1913)

Bobbin Winder Light Bulb

Tension Disc (No. 6797)

(No. 39619)

Straight Stitch

Needleplate

(No. 57861)

Edge Stitcher

(No. 29306)

1

'liii

Feed Cover
(No. 43166)

IS/

Li

Plate

Quilting Guide

(No. 28861)

Foot Control

(No. 57544)

.

2 Spool Pin Caps

Large — No. 55503
Small - No. 53871

Foot Control Cord

(No. 57543)

C3)

Nylon Disc

(No. 2273)

Lint Brush

(No. 35848)

Adjustable

Holder

(No. 29308)

Large Screw Driver

(No. 55501)

Small Screw Driver

(No. 55500)

Magnetized

Mini Screw Driver

(No. 55499)

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Packet of needles

with your machine

includes a variety of sizes.

Replacement needles

come in packages

of one size only.

Ruffler/Pleater

(No. 6895)

Needle Size
No. 9
No. 11
No. 14
No. 16
No. 18

"Q NEEDLE"
Double Needle

Needle Threader

(No. 43780)

Part No.

6550
6551
6552
6553
6554
6746

6749

Bobbin Box with

10 Metal Bobbins

(No. 6862)

Plastic Bobbins

(No. 6868)

Oiler

(No. 6890)

SPOOL PINS AND CAPS

Place a spool of thread on the pin and place

the appropriate size spool cap over the
thread.

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

This machine can be used either as a flatbed
or as a freearm model. With the accessory
box in place, the machine is a flatbed model
with a large working surface, which slopes
gently towards you to help the smooth flow
of fabric.

when sewing with a double needle. Pull it out
and place a nylon disc over it when using.

By removing the accessory box, the machine
converts into a slim freearm model for sewing
children's clothes, cuffs, trouser legs,
armholes and other awkward places.

1. To remove the accessory box, take it
firmly with your left hand and lift it up

until it clicks. Your machine is then ready

for free arm sewing.

2. To replace, slide the accessory box back

into place until it clicks.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

1. Place thread on Telescoping Spool Pin.
Draw thread through Rear Thread Guide

and Bobbin Winder Tension Disc as
indicated.

2. Pull end of thread through any hole in
bobbin; place bobbin on Bobbin Winder

Shaft with end of thread coming from top
of bobbin as shown above.

Push Bobbin Winder Latch against bobbin
until it clicks. Then pull Hand Wheel away
from machine to disengage clutch (see
diagram below). Hold end of thread
coming from bobbin (see above) and step
on foot control. After several rotations of
bobbin release thread.

When bobbin is full, winding stops
automatically. Push in Hand Wheel.
Remove bobbin from shaft and trim

thread end.

Treat Hand Wheel as a "clutch"
It controls the needle mechanism so that
when pulled out (disengaged), the rest of
the machine will not operate while the
bobbin is being wound.

For best stitching results use clear plastic

lightweight bobbins when stitching at high

speed with widest and longest stitch
setting.

8

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

(D

1. Remove accessory box.

2. Remove bobbin cover plate by lifting up

the front.

3. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making

sure bobbin rotates counter clockwise.

4. Pull thread through slot (A) and then to

the left.

5. Pull thread through slot (B) and leave

about 4 inches of thread.

6. Replace bobbin cover plate allowing
thread to emerge through slot in needle

plate.

THREADING TOP THREAD

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

1. Raise slotted take-up lever to its highest

position.
Place thread spool onto spool pin. Place

appropriate spool cap over the spool of
thread.

Draw thread through rear thread guide
(A) and into threading channel (B) toward

you. (Fig. 1)

2. Draw thread down and around check
spring (C) and up through slotted take-up
lever (D). (Fig. 2)

3. Draw thread down into thread guides (E)
and (F). Thread needle from front to back
as shown in Fig. 3.

THREADING DOUBLE NEEDLE

Place second spool of thread on second
spool pin, and thread machine as you would
for a single needle except double thread
guides are provided. Draw one thread
through each of these and through each side
of needle from front to back.

PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD

1. Raise presser foot lever.

Hold needle thread loosely in left hand
and push needle up/down switch two
times or rotate hand wheel toward you
one complete turn.

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper

thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the back
of the presser foot, leaving 3 to 4 inches
of thread clear.

If you can not pick up bottom thread by
following above steps, then check:

1. Is needle threaded ?

2. Is thread tangled around needle ?

3. Is bobbin case threaded correctly with
thread going through slots A and B as

shown on page 9, Fig. 4 and 5 ?

4. Is there 4 inches of thread coming from

bobbin case and through slot of needle
plate as shown on page 9, Fig. 6 ?

5. Is thread from bobbin case tangled ?

11

iCONTROLSi

THREAD TENSION CONTROL

STRAIGHT STITCHING

The good looking appearance of your stitching
is largely determined by the balanced tension of
both top and bobbin threads. The tension is well
balanced when these two threads 'lock' in the
middle of layers of fabric you are sewing.

For most fabrics the top thread tension control

should be set in the white zone between 3 and 5.

If, when you start to sew, you find that the

stitching is irregular, you will need to adjust the
tension control.

Make any adjustments with presser foot 'down'.

1. If the threads are locking on the top surface
with the top thread lying flat, the top stitch is
too tight. Tension can be decreased by
turning the tension control to the left (lower

numbers).

2. If the reverse is happening with the threads
on the underside of the fabric, the tension is
too loose. This can be corrected by turning
the tension control to the right (higher
numbers).

Under

side

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Well balanced

ZIGZAG STITCHING

The top thread may appear on the bottom
depending on the thread, fabric, type of stitch
and sewing speed, but the bobbin thread must

never appear on the top of the fabric.

In the case of zigzag stitching, the wider the
zigzag setting, the more chance there is of
puckering. If this occurs decrease the top
tension slightly and/or reduce the zigzag width.

BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

The bobbin thread tension has been correctly

set at the factory, so you do not need to adjust
it.

MORE TIPS ON THREAD TENSION BALANCE

A perfect stitch is obtained when the tension
is well balanced, but the tension balance may
vary according to the type and size of needle,
thread and fabric. The fabric determines size of
thread and needle. The presser foot pressure
and the thread tension control should also be
adjusted properly.

FABRICS:

Heavy fabrics, stiff - Increase top thread

tension. Use larger size needle, heavier thread
and longer stitch length.

Heavy fabrics, soft - Decrease top thread
tension. Use longer stitch length.

Light, sheer fabrics - Decrease top thread

tension and presser foot pressure. Use shorter
stitch length. Sew slowly.

THREADS:

Polyester and silk - Decrease top thread tension.
Nylon - Increase top thread tension.

Top stitch ^ Top stitch
too tight too loose

ZIGZAG STITCHING

12

STITCH SELECTOR AND INDICATOR

1. To select a stitch, be sure needle is out of
fabric at its highest position. Push the
stitch selector in and out to release the

mechanism.

2. Then turn the selector to left or right until
the required stitch is indicated by the red
light on the indicator panel.

STITCH WIDTH/NEEDLE

POSITION CONTROL

STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

The width of all the stitches produced on this

machine, with the obvious exception of

straight stitch, can be made narrower or
wider by adjusting the stitch width control.

To decrease or increase the width of a stitch,
turn the stitch width control dial from 0-4.
The higher the number the wider the stitch.

Recommended setting ranges are indicated
and color-coded with patterns on the stitch
indicator panel.

When sewing with a double needle, do not

use a setting above 2, as indicated on the
dial.

NEEDLE POSITION CONTROL

(Model 17922 only)

This dial is used to change needle position
when straight stitching. Three different
needle positions can be selected: S - standard
position for general sewing, C - center and

R - right.

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control regulates the length

of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE
NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH.

Turn only the outer rim of this control to set

the stitch length.

The number on stitch length control indicates

the approximate number of stitches per inch.

The stitch setting you use will be determined

by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing.

A longer stitch setting should be used for
thicker fabric or more layers of fabric. The
middle range of the control is the 12 stitch per
inch range which is the most commonly
used.

Recommended stitch length settings are
indicated in three colors. The colors are

color-coded with the stitches on the indicator
panel.

The red marking between 0 and 24 is
the setting used for the shortest stitches such
as in satin stitching.

REVERSE STITCH LEVER

It is best to begin and end seams with a few
stitches taken in reverse. This is called back
tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the

seams firmly and prevents raveling.

When reverse stitching is needed, push
down the lever and hold there during sewing.
The fabric will immediately start feeding
backwards and seam will be fastened.

STITCH MODIFIER

When using stretch stitches and making
buttonholes, you may need to make use of
the stitch modifier. This regulates the
movement of the fabric backwards and
forwards to produce perfect stitches on fine
or thick fabrics.

The .stitch modifier should be in neutral
notched position for most materials.

14

SEAM GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on needle plate, at
both sides of needle, to help you line up the

fabric and keep it straight. The standard

seam width is 5/8". So these lines are
emphasized, easy to follow.

Also the cross lines are "cornering guides" to
help when turning a square corner 5/8" from
the fabric edge. (For details on cornering, see
page 29.)

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

Presser foot lever has a two position lift.
In order to place heavy fabric under the
presser foot or to change the presser foot
raise the presser foot lever to its maximum
upward position as shown.

BUTTONHOLE CONTROL

This control is used in making bar tacked
buttonholes with two control settings.
Detailed instructions are given on page 51.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Presser foot pressure is vital for straight
seams, uniform stitch length, even handling
of both layers of fabric. To adjust pressure;
use Pressure Regulator which is situated
inside the face cover. Then to increase
pressure, turn the dial clockwise (or vice
versa). Just remember... for lightweight
fabric, more pressure; for heavy fabric, less
pressure.

I ACCESSORIES!

NEEDLES

Use KENMORE needles. The size of the
needle should conform with the size of the
thread and both should be suitable to the
fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded by
size for your convenience (See chart on
facing page).

Never use a bent needle or one with a dull
point.

NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART

If you do not have a Kenmore needle, please
use this illustration to be sure your needle is
the right size. Distance from top of needle to
needlehole should be this exact length.

You will find among your accessories a

• Q NEEDLE".- with blue shank. This special

needle is to be used when sewing knits and
certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you
experience skipped stitches in any of your
sewing, use q needle"-and "Q FOOT"..

FABRIC

LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste, Dimitv,

Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys,
Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe,
Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

MEDIUMWEIGHT: Cotton,

Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham,

Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,

Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,

Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabardine, Velvets, Leather

HEAVYWEIGHT: Coatings,

Upholstery, Cotton Duck,
Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on all

types of fabric

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

9 BROWN

or

11 ORANGE

14 RED

14 RED

or

16 PURPLE

18 GREEN

16 PURPLE
18 GREEN

or

Q-BLUE

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
Silk A

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Silk A

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap
Heavy-Duty Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Synthetic
Silk A

Buttonhole Twist

RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitches

per inch

10 to 12 stitches

per inch

8 to 10 stitches

per inch

8 stitches

per inch

6 stitches

per inch

Synthetic Knits and Stretch:

Polyester Double Knits, Nylon
Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,
Spandex, Ciré Tricot

Q BLUE

with

"QFOOT"

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

10 for Regular

or

6 for Stretch

Stitches

16

CHANGING NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by
turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen
the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle

with the flat side away from you, slip the

needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far
as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw
with small screwdriver provided in the
accessory box.

PRESSER FEET

This machine is supplied fitted with a zigzag
presser foot for general sewing purposes.
In the accessory box are the following
additional presser feet:

Straight stitch foot

1.

Metal and plastic satin stitch feet

2.

Buttonhole foot

3.

4.

Built-in buttonhole guide foot

Zipper foot

5.
Blind hem foot

6.

Overcasting foot

7.

•■Q FOOT".»

8.

Even feed foot

9.
Narrow hemmer

10.

Edge stitcher

11.

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

Be sure needle is in the up position. Raise
presser foot lever.

Snap-on presser feet

1. Raise foot release lever to remove the

foot. (Fig. 1 )

2. Place the desired foot on the needle plate

aligning needle holes. (Fig. 1)

3. Lower the presser foot lever so that the

foot holder snaps on the foot. (Fig. 2)

One-piece presser feet

1. Loosen presser foot thumb screw and
remove the foot holder.

2. Insert desired foot from the front. Lower
the presser foot lever and tighten the
screw using the large screw driver to
make certain the foot is secure.

EVEN FEED FOOT

The even feed foot moves top and bottom

material together evenly and enables you to
sew hard-to-sew fabrics without sliding nor
slipping and with perfect matching. Use it for
sewing leather, ultra suede™, shiny fabrics

(vinyls, patents and satirii?), bonded fabrics,

pile fabrics and matching stripes, plaids and

patterns. It is not recommended for use when
stretch stitching.

To attach the even feed foot;

1. Raise needle to its highest position.

2. Raise presser bar to its highest position

and guide the even feed foot into position
from rear of machine.

3. Attach presser bar clamp to presser bar

and tighten presser foot thumb screw.

4. Attach screw (A) provided with the foot
to needle clamp through fork arm and
tighten it.

Note: Attach the foot in exact order of steps

as written.

IMPORTANT:

To prevent friction and wear, put a drop of oil
at each point indicated by arrows in Fig. 2
and set pressure regulator at 2 or 3 before
using this foot.

Oil after 4 or 5 times usage. Be sure to remove
excess oil by wiping foot thoroughly and sewing
on a scrap of fabric.

ADJUSTABLE HOLDER

Replace the regular presser foot holder with

the adjustable holder when using narrow
hemmer and edge stitcher attachment.

Loosen thumb screw and press it forward.
Insert the opposite end into the large hole of
the attachment. Slide the attachment to the
left as far as possible. Adjust as necessary to
the correct position for stitching. Tighten the
thumb screw securely.

Narrow
hemmer

Thumb'
screw

18

EDGESTITCHER

This one attachment helps you join fabric

edges ...insert lace ...do seam piping ...
simplifies blind hemming as well as "French"
seams. Slots numbered 1 to 5 serve as

sewing guides:
Slot 1 will guide fabric to be joined to lace.

All you have to do is place the lace in slot 2

(A)

Slot 4 will guide piping being joined to fabric
edges. Place the fabric in slots 2 or 3.(B)

Slot 5 may be used as a guide when sewing
French seams which are stitched twice, once

on right side and once on other side. This is
the classic seam for sheers. (C)

Use slots 1 and 3 to guide fabric with ease

during blind hemming.(D)

QUILTING GUIDE

This attachment comes in handy whenever
you want several rows of stitches an equal
distance apart-for garment trim as well as
quilts. The curved prong is shifted back and
forth to establish the distance between rows

of stitches.

To attach the guide, raise foot release lever
and insert it into the hole on the presser foot

holder as shown.

NEEDLE PLATES

You are provided with two needle plates:
A. Needle plate with wide oval hole for all

zigzag stitches and striaght stitch with
needle at "C" (center) or "R" (right)
position.

B. Needle plate with round hole for straight

stitch with needle at "S" (standard)
position.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

1.

Raise needle to its highest position and
raise presser foot.

2.

Remove bobbin cover plate.

3.

Remove needle plate by placing thumb
under edge of plate and lifting up and out.
(See Fig. 2)

4.

Make sure bobbin case is in the proper
position by turning in the counter
clockwise direction as indicated by red

arrow on the bobbin case stopper until it
stops. (Fig. 3)

Snap desired needle plate into place.
(Fig. 4)

6.

Replace bobbin cover plate.

NOTE:

Fig. 2

5

1 o 1 1

1 1 o t

PP

J

___

L

Fig.3

Don't turn hand wheel while needle plate is
removed, or needle may hit bobbin case and
cause needle damage.

Don't touch screws on the bobbin case

stopper.

If bobbin case is not installed as indicated

above, it will be damaged when the needle
plate is put into position.

FEED COVER PLATE

There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric yourself.
Raise needle to its highest position and raise
presser foot. Place feed cover plate over
needle plate aligning two pins of feed cover
plate with holes of needle plate. You may
then determine the movement of the fabric

yourself.

Bobbin case Bobbin case ^'9- 4

stopper

CARING FOR THE MACHINEi

Feed
dogs

GLEANING THE FEED DOGS WITH A BRUSH

To insure the best possible operation of your
machine, it is necessary to keep the essential
parts clean at all times.

Remove bobbin cover plate and needle plate.

Using a small brush, remove the lint that
accumulates in and around the feed dogs and
shuttle area.

GLEANING AND OILING SHUTTLE AREA

On rare occasions, you may want to clean the
shuttle area. Just follow these simple steps.

1. Raise needle to its highest position by
turning handwheel toward you. Remove
bobbin case by lifting it out from left side.

2. Clean the shuttle with small brush and put
a drop of oil to the points indicated by
arrows. Don't over-oil. (Reminder: don't
use household oil...use sewing machine
oil.)

21

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

V.

_________

L

Bobbin case Bobbin case stopper

REPLACING BOBBIN CASE

1. Insert bobbin case into shuttle from left
side, aligning red dot on the bobbin case
with red dot on the bobbin case stopper.

(Fig. 1)

2. Turn the bobbin case in the direction of

red arrow on the stopper until it stops.

(Fig. 2)

3. Replace needle plate to its original

position. (Fig. 2)

4. Replace bobbin cover plate.

NOTE: If bobbin case is not properly installed,

it will be damaged when the needle
plate is put into position.

Don't touch screws on the bobbin
case stopper.

Oil and lint brush No. 6890 is available
at most Sears retail stores and
catalog.

i

i " aM

W----

t-

1

, -------------------------------------------------

j

................

___________

-------------------------S____________________________________

2

i , "1

! B ra

: ; ! !i

\' i

,

OILING UNDER TOP COVER PLATE

Remove top cover plate by loosening two top

screws (A and B) as shown at left. Then

q

r

place one or two drops of Kenmore sewing
machine oil at each point.

OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE

Swing face cover plate open and oil points
indicated by arrows in illustration.

OILING IN END COVER PLATE

A drop of oil should be placed through the
hole indicated in the end cover plate.

CHANGING LIGHT BULB

The sewing light is located inside the face
cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb,

push switch to off, unplug machine and
swing the face cover plate open. Push up on
the bulb slightly and turn bulb to the left.
Withdraw bulb from socket. Push in new

bulb and turn to the right.

■CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLiEMS'

Your Kenmore sewing machine is a precision
instrument, designed to give you many years
of troublefree sewing - with minimum mainte

Stitches are irregular

1. Needle size is not correct for thread and

fabric. - See page 16.

2. Machine is not threaded correctly. - See

page 10.

3. Top thread tension is too loose. - See

page 12.

4. Fabric is being pulled or pushed against

machine feeding action. - Guide it gently.

5. Presser foot pressure is too light. - See

page 15.

6. Bobbin has not been wound evenly. -

Rewind bobbin.

7. There are nicks or burrs at needleplate
opening. - Replace needleplate or polish off

burrs completely.

Needle breaks

1. Fabric is being pulled or pushed against

machine feeding action. - Guide it gently.

2. Needle size is not correct for thread and
fabric. - See page 16.

3. Needle is not all the way up into needle

clamp. - See page 17.

4. Presser foot holder is not fastened securely.

- See page 17.

Bunching of thread

1. Top and bobbin threads are not drawn back

under presser foot before starting seam.

- Draw both threads back under presser foot
about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.

nance. If you have any performance problem,
check the list below and you'll be able to

solve the problem yourself.

Fabric puckers

1. Top thread tension is too tight. - Decrease

top thread tension.

2.

Presser foot pressure is too light. - See
page 15.,

Two different sizes or types of thread are
used. - Use same size and type of thread on
top and in the bobbin.

4.

Needle is bent or blunt. - Replace needle.

5.

Presser foot holder is not fastened securely.

-See page 17.

6.

Fabric is too sheer or too soft. - Use underlay
of tissue paper.

Machine skips stitches

1. Needle size is not correct for thread and

fabric. - See page 16.

2. Fabric is certain knit or synthetic. - Use

"Q NEEDLE"-„and -Q FOOT”,».

3. Needle is bent or blunt. - Replace needle.

4. Needle is not all the way up into needle

clamp. - See page 17.

5. Top thread tension is too tight. - Decrease

top thread tension.

6. Presser foot pressure is too light. - See

page 15.

Needle thread breaks

1. Machine is started too fast. - Start to stitch

at a medium speed.

2. Machine is not threaded correctly. - See

page 10.

3. Top thread tension is too tight. - See

page 12.

4. Needle size is not correct for thread and

fabric. - See page 16.

5. Eye of needle has sharp edges. - Replace

needle.

6. There are nicks or burrs at needleplate
opening. - Replace needleplate or polish off
burrs completely.

Bobbin thread breaks

1. Bobbin case is not threaded correctly. - See
pages.

2. Lint accumulates in bobbin case or shuttle.

- See page 21.

25

Machine does not feed fabric

1. Presser foot pressure is too light. - See

page 15.

2. Thread is knotted under fabric.

3. Feed cover plate is attached on needle plate.

- Remove feed cover plate.

Machine jams

1. Thread is caught in shuttle. Remove bobbin

case and clean shuttle (see page 21).

2. Needle is damaged. - Replace needle.

3. Needle plate is bent. - Replace needle plate.
Machine will not sew

1. Hand wheel is not returned to stitching

position. - Push in clutch.

2. Power cord is not connected. - Check plug.

3. Power/light switch is turned off. - Turn on

the switch.

i2. STARTING TO SEWi

Now that you are familiar with the controls

on your machine and with the accessories
provided for the machine, you are ready to

Check the needle-it should be straight,

1.

properly set and sharp on the point.
It should be the correct size for the fabric
and thread being used. Do not be afraid
to change your needle frequently. Many
of the new fabrics made of synthetic
blends tend to dull the needles more
easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.

Before placing the material on the

2.

machine, see that the ends of the threads
have been drawn about 3 - 4 inches to the
rear of the machine. Hold on to threads

during the sewing of the first 3 or 4
stitches of the seam.

stall to sew with your sewing machine.
Below are some good habits to follow each
time you sit down to sew:

5.

Run.the machine at a slow even speed.
The more pressure you put on the foot
control, the faster the machine will sew.

Fasten each seam by back tacking at the
beginning and end of the seam.

Test the machine stitch on a scrap of

3.

fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
be double thickness. Adjust the machine
for the length of stitch and tension
suitable to your fabric.

Fabric should be placed under the presser

4.

foot with the bulk of the material to the
left of the needle and the right edge of the
material placed on the 5/8" seam marking
on the needle plate when making a simple
seam.

7.

Always finish sewing each seam with the
needle at its highest point.

Guide the fabric gently with your hand in

8.

front of the needle. Never pull or hold the
fabric in such a way that the normal
feeding is altered.

When turning the hand wheel manually,

9.
always turn it toward you.

)

26

NJ

f RTtTrH

STRAIGHT STITCH
ZIGZAG STITCH
MENDING STITCH
BOX STITCH

BLIND STITCH
ELASTIC BLIND STITCH
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH
RICK-RACK STRETCH STITCH
FEATHER STRETCH STITCH

SMOCKING STRETCH STITCH
OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH
PARIS POINT STRETCH STITCH

DECORATIVE DESIGNS

BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE
(Use Buttonholer 7 .)

DARNING Mi

SATIN STITCH :iM~a

1 iMnir'ATnpl 2- LENGTH

I. 1DIAL

AAAAA

A A A A A

/V/\/\/\/\

f V V V V ^

AAAA
YYYY

/yyyVAYA/VyVN

su «s

mwwm

<<<<<<^

AAAAA

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

oVW“

H/VWVWWVVVV\I|

HwWSMA/VWwl

AAAAA

RED ZONE

GREEN ZONE

GREEN ZONE

12
12

YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

12

GREEN ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

BUTTONHOLE

ZONE

8-10

BETWEEN 0 AND 241

3. STITCH

MODIF1ER

NEUTRAL

NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL

'NEUTRAL
'NEUTRAL
'NEUTRAL

•NEUTRAL '
♦NEUTRAL
'NEUTRAL

NEUTRAL
'NEUTRAL
'NEUTRAL

NEUTRAL

NEUTRAL

4. WiDTH/NFFDl F

POSITION DIAL

"S"

"C" or "R"

RED ZONE B

3-4
2-4

1^-2

VA-2

"S"

"C" or "R"

YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE

2-3

GREEN ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

BUTTONHOLE

ZONE

"C"

RED ZONE

p; pRtrgdfn

FOdT“ "

A

B

B
B
E
E

A

8 or D

B or D
B or D
B or D
B or D

B or D
B or C
B or C

F

B

C

R KICprSi c'N

PLATE

G
H

H
H
H
H
H

G
H

H
H

H
H
H
H
H

H
H
H

May need to adjust depending upon type of fabric.

PRACTICAL STITCH CHART (Model 17920,17921)

ol

w

G. Straight stitch H. Zigzag needle

needle plate plate

A. Straight B. Zigzag C. Satin D. Q foot E. Blind hem F. Buttonhole

foot foot foot foot guide foot

STITCH

STRAIGHT STITCH
ZIGZAG STITCH

MENDING STITCH

BOX STITCH
BLIND STITCH
ELASTICH BLIND STITCH
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH NOT APPLICABLE

RICK-RACK STRETCH STITCH
FEATHER STRETCH STITCH

SMOCKING STRETCH STITCH YELLOW ZONE YELLOW ZONE
OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH

PARIS POINT STRETCH STITCH

1. INDICATOR

AAAAA

AAAAA

/\/\/\/\/\

f V V V V \

AAAA
YYYY

<<<<<<<^

AAAAA

lili

2. WIDTH

DlAi

NOT APPLICABLE RED ZONE NEUTRAL

RED ZONE

Mi-2

VA NEUTRAL

YELLOW ZONE YELLOW ZONE
YELLOW ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

2-3

3. LENGTH

DfAL

RED ZONE
GREEN ZONE
GREEN ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

4. STITCH

MODIFIER

NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL

NEUTRAL

* NEUTRAL

‘NEUTRAL

»NEUTRAL

‘NEUTRAL B or D
‘NEUTRAL
‘NEUTRAL

5. PRESSER

FOOT

B or D

B or D

B or D
B or D

I. Darning

plate

6. NEEDLE

PLATE

N5

00

DECORATIVE DESIGNS

BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE
(Use Buttonholer (f ■)

DARNIG

oVW

||/WVW\AAM/V\Ai|

Ivwwwwwvwll

AAAAA

YELLOW ZONE

BUTTONHOLE

ZONE

NOT APPLICABLE

RED ZONE

GREEN ZONE

YELLOW ZONE

BUTTgNHOLE

NOT APPLICABLE

BETWEEN 0 AND 1

NEUTRAL

NEUTRAL

»NEUTRAL H

NOT APPLICABLE

NEUTRAL

May need to adjust depending upon type of fabric.

B or C
B or C

NONE

H and I

H

yti

lo_J

m

Cornering

Guide

STRAIGHT STITCHING

You may use zigzag, straight stitch foot or Q foot,
but for best control of fabric, best looking straight

stitches and best feeding of fabric use Straight

Stitch Foot and Needle Plate.

ASTENING ASEAIVI

8e sure both threads are drawn back under
the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric

about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam.
Depress the reverse stitch lever and stitch in
rf^verse until needle reaches beginning of
seam. Release control and complete seam.

When you reach the end, depress the reverse

stitch lever and sew back (backtack) over 1/2
irjch of completed seam.

Turning a square corner

1 To turn a square corner 5/8” from the

fabric edge, stop stitching when reaching
the cornering guide and push needle up/
down switch to lower the needle into the
fabric.

2 Raise the presser foot and turn fabric.

New stitching line will align with 5/8"
seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower
the presser foot and begin stitching in
new direction.

REMOVING FABRIC

First turn the handwheel toward you until the

needle is at its highest position, then raise the
presser foot, draw materials to the rear and
ait off excess thread with the thread cutter
lofcated on the presser bar as shown.

29

DARNING

SETTINGS
Stitch Length - 8 to 10

Pressure Regulator - 0 (DARN)

Zigzag foot or square automatic buttonhole
foot

Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops
with hole centered. Lower presser bar and
sew at a slow speed moying fabric back and
forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning
area. When it is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a
turn and sew layer of stitching across first
layer.

If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area,
you may want to put a separate piece under
the hole for reinforcement.

TEMPORARY SEWING BY

MACHINE

Regular basting by machine is easy —simply
use straight stitching with longest available
length setting. And your machine has a free
basting method for very long stitches that
sometimes can be used for "marking”.

Regular Basting

Free Method

FREE BASTING METHOD

SETTINGS
Basting switch - turn on

Pressure regulator - 0 (DARN) or 1
Use feed cover plate.

Tap the foot control and the machine will
take one stitch and stop automatically with
the needle in the up position. Holding the
fabric in both hands, pull it back to the

required stitch length.
Repeat this process, tapping down on the

foot control and guiding the fabric with your
hands.

30

RIPPER APPLICATION - CORDING

Home-sewn zippers can look as nice as those
qn expensive ready-mades. We recommend
you follow directions given on zipper
package. Your Zipper Foot will assist you

with any of these installations. Use these
simple settings:

Your zipper foot is adjustable for use on right
or left side of needle. Adjust foot so needle
Clears side notch on foot. Then proceed
according to zipper manufacturer's
itistructions.

our zipper foot also makes it easy to add
cording" to garments as well as slip covers,

ss pillows, bedspreads, decorative pieces,

tq!

ut fabric on bias and wrap around cord,

C

Pi

n fabric in place so seam edges are even.

VVith zipper foot to left of needle, stitch close

to cord.

NARROW HEMMING

Attach the Narrow Hemmer to the adjustable
holder. Make sure that ©dge of the fabric is
cut straight. Turn a tiny double hem (Vs inch)
along edge for about twb inches. Place end
of this hem under Narrow Hemmer. Hold
thread taut while stitchiiig along inside edge
of hem. Feed fabric gradually into "scroll" in
hemmer, guiding edge of fabric as shown.

QUILTING

Attach the quilting guide to presser foot as
shown. After completin

stitching, place the guiding prong on this

stitched line. The secón

placed at the desired dist
Continue working in this way for as many
rows as you want.

g the first row of

d row then can be
ance from first row.

32

ZIGZAG STITCHING

OVERCASTING

Stitch Selector - AAAAA

Stitch Length - 12-8
Stitch Width - 3-4
Use Overcast Foot.

This is one of the more frequently used
zigzag stitches on garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw
edge toward the garment and stitch.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric jusi
short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges
of older garments can be overcast to prevent
further raveling.

SATIN STITCHING

Stitch Selector - AAAAA
Stitch Length Dial - Between 0 and 24 (*•)
Use metal or plastic Satin stitch foot which is
grooved to permit dense stitching to pass

under it easily.

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin
stitches. This is an attractive stitch used for
appliqueing, bar tacking.

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well
to remember to loosen the tension of the top
thread slightly. The wider the stitch you
make, the looser the tension should be.

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, use a
backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a

well formed stitch. Puckering of the material
will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will

not be visible on the right side of the fabric.
As with all special stitches, it is best to make

a sample design on your fabric before starting
the design on the garment.

33

BAR TACKING

Settings same as Satin Stitching

This stitch is similar to a very short satin
stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain
such as corners of pockets and straps on

lingerie.

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

APPLIQUEING

Settings same as Satin Stitching

Select an applique design to be applied to
your garment and bast^ it in place. Satin
stitch around the raw edge of the applique
completely covering the ^dge. You may want

to do this with a contrasting color of thread.

EMBROIDERY

Settings same as Satin Stitching

Satin stitch can be used to produce many

different designs and patterns. To sew the
flowers illustrated, back the fabric with

interfacing or paper and draw on the design

with tailor's chalk. Turn the stitch width

control from 0-4-0 to from each petal and

leaf. Join the flowers and leaves with straight

stretch stitch. If usir^g paper, carefully

remove it when you haYe finished sewing.

MONOGRAMMING

Settings same as Satin Stitching
To sew initials, first back the fabric with

interfacing or paper. Drjaw the initials on to
the fabric with tailor's chalk. Satin stitch,
adjusting the width frotfn 0-4 as you begin
and end the stroke of a letter. Or the same
stitch width can be used throughout. If using

paper, carefully remove it when you have

finished sewing.

BUTTON SEWING

3iitch Selector - AAAAA
flitch Width - Adjust to Button Size
Use Feed Cover Plate and Clear Plastic

Satin Stitch Foot.
1i Position the button on fabric with clear

tape.

2, Center the left hole of button between

straight seamline and the left edge of

needle slot of foot and lower foot to hold

the button securely.

LEFT HOLE

OF

BUTTON

= +î

PRESSER

FOOT

STRAIGHT
SEAMLINE

BUTTON

3| Turn hand wheel manually until needle

point is just above button.

4j Adjust stitch width control so needle will

enter right hole of the button.

5. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle

I

enters second hole. Readjust stitch width

if necessary. Stitch a number of times.

6^ Finish sewing with an extra two inches of

thread remaining. Draw these threads to
reverse side of garment and tie.

When sewing a flat button, place needle or
pin between holes of button as shown to
Orovide flexibility for buttoning.

35

BLIND HEMMING

YYW —Regular blind

normal fabrics

— Elastic blinpl stitch for soft,

stretchabib fabrics

Blind hemming is a good technique to use on
garments, and especially on curtains and
drapery hems so that stifches need not show

on the front of the fabric. Because your

Kenmore has two types of blindstitches built
in, blind hemming is easier than you'd
expect. It's just a matter of folding... give it
a try!

stitch for

PROCEDURE

Stitch Length - 12
Stitch Width- VA -2

1. Finish raw edge of fabric appropriately.
You may want to use seam tape on
woven fabrics. With knits use a lace seam
tape or just use decorative stretch stitch.

2. Working on wrong side of fabric, fold
hem up. Press and pih in place. Then fold
hem allowance undOr... leaving 1/8" of
hem edge extending.

3. Place garment und$r blind stitch foot
with the fold of the garment against guide
and slide it by turnirig screw so that the
zigzag just catches the fold. (Blind

hemming can be sirpplified by also using

the special Kenmore Edgestitcher-please

refer to 19 for details.)

4. Now the right side Of your garment will
show only the blind stitches! Be sure to

press both sides of the finished hem!

Stretch stitches

$tretch stitches, as their names imply, are

rainly for use on stretch and knit fabrics

rri

lich as stretch nylon, stretch towelling,

sey and cotton jersey; and for sewing

t|

together knitted garments. Stretch stitches

e also often used on non-stretch fabrics.

aifi

ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH BALANCE

$titch modifier should be in neutral (notched)
position for most materials. Depending upon
tfie type of fabric used, you may need to
aiJjust this control to match forward stitches

pf stretch sewing with reverse motion

stitches. If the stitches are too open, turn the
control slightly clockwise; if the stitches
oyerlap, turn the control counter-clockwise.

Straight stretch stitch

recommendation

1. It is recommended you use the Q set for

sewing knit and woven synthetic fabrics.

2. It may be necessary to use an interfacing
or backing when jewing very soft and

thin knits or woven synthetic fabrics.

Settings

Stitch Selector - =====

Stitch Length - Yellow Zone

Stitch Width - Any number (not necessary

to adjust)

bu may use either a zig zag or straight stitch
fbot BUT-- for best control of fabric, best
looking straight stitches and best feeding of
fabric use Straight Stitch Foot and Straight
Stitch Needle Plate.

Ijlse this stretch stitch with knit or synthetic

fabric. Sew as you do with regular straight
stitch.

This is also a good stitch to use on curved
seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any
seam that will receive a great deal of strain
when worn should be sewn with the stretch
Stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as
Wpll as adult sports clothes.

37

RICK-RACK STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector ­Stitch Length - Yellow Zone
Stitch Width - Yellow ZOne

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you
might use a zig zag stitch. This stitch can be
used as a decorative top stitch as well.

It is useful also on lapped or abutted seams

where you lap one edgó of a seam over
another with seamlines meeting in the center.

FEATHER STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector
Stitch Length ­Stitch Width -

This is a good stitch to pse with laces, on

lingerie, bra and girdles; and to apply bias

tape. It's great when quill|ing.

<<<<<^

Yellow |:one
2-4

SMOCKING STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector
Stitch Length ­Stitch Width -

1. Make a straight line of gathers across the

fabric that you wish to smock.

2. With a narrow strip of fabric directly
under the line of gathering, stitch over the
gathers. The design will be a series of
small diamonds.

Yellow Zone
2-4

Note: When smocking a garment, the stitch

ing should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.

ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH

titch Selector - /VVVXA
titch Length - Yellow Zone

Stitch Width - 2-4

se this versatile stitch to insert elastic in

iSrrnents. Simply stitch elastic into place,

$

irlh-

laking sure it is evenly spaced. To do this,

1^1

lark the correct length piece into quarters,

th

len match these markings with center front

hd side seams.

Cf)VERCAST STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector - AAAAA
Stitch Length - Yellow Zone
Stitch Width- 4

This is the same type stitch used by the

arment industry in making sportswear-it

rms and finishes the seam in one operation

I

Dr seams of to ^"). It's very effective

(f

r use in repairing raw or worn edges of

fb

^l^er garments.

39

^RIS POINT STRETCH STITCH

titch Selector - 11111111

itch Length - 12
itch Width - 2-3

EiJcellent for hemstitching table and bed
covers with a elegant touch. Picot-like stitch

C0

n also be made on sheer materials. Sew

ai

png the raw edge of fabric and trim close to

th

outside of the stitching.

BUTTONHOLE MAKING - BUILT-IN SYSTEM

PREPARATION

Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your
garment. Place the fabric vjvith the buttonhole
marked under the buttonhole foot. Pull the
guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the
index mark (B) is aligned vyith the graduation
(C), with thread to rear. (F^eproduction of the
identical size buttonholes is facilitated with
the aid of the graduation^ on the both sjdes
of the buttonhole guide fQot. These gardua­tionsare 1/8” (left side) or 2.5mm (right side)
apart. Graduations act as reference mark.)

PROCEDURE

1. Switch the control to left. (If it has been

already at left, set it ai right, sew several
stitches and switch to left again.) Step on
foot control to form fitst bartack and left
side of buttonhole.

2. When you reach end pf left side, switch
the control to the right and complete the
buttonhole.

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

Stitch length difference^ in forward and
reverse stitches of thp buttonhole are
equalized with the stitch modifier.

If the reverse stitches are too far apart, turn
the,modifier slightly clockyvise; if they are too
close together, turn counter-clockwise.

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Hook filler cord (crotchet thread or button
hole twist) to the spur (A), pull both ends of
cord forward under foot and tie to the spur
(B). Sew buttonhole in such a way that

zigzag stitches cover the cord.
When stitching is competed, release cord

from foot, pull ends of corjd and snip off extra
length.

A «

II

40

BUTTONHOLE MAKING - USING BUfTONHOLE ATTACHMENT

||/WWWWWVVA| f

Ikvwvwwwwl :=r—?/

--------

AAAAA

W

<<<<<<<<<.

ZVVWN

AAAAA

/\/\/\/\/\

' V V V V \

AAAA

Y~V~VY

/vywvywv^

— —

(

Zigzag needle plate

V^and feed cover plate J

~T^

--------------

)

«

J

Buttonhole foot

Any setting

FiEGULAR WORKED BUTTONHOLE
(STRAIGHT, KEYHOLE AND EYE-

j.ET)

Template advance

knob

41

Guide plate

PROCEDURE

titch Selector - AAAAA

titch Width - 1-114

igzag Needle Plate
eed Cover Plate

uttonhole Foot

Raise needle to its highest position and
raise presser foot. Remove accessory box

and bobbin cover plate.
Insert buttonhole cover plate at 45 degree

angle and snap it down into place
pressing it against the needle plate.

Select correct template for type button
hole you want. Insert template into slot of
guide plate. Turn template advance knob
until desired size appears in window on

the top side of guide plate.

Slip guide plate onto machine so it fits in

3.

place with pinion gear in the center of arc
hole of template. Be sure guide block is
inserted in guide slot.

Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate

4.

by turning hand Wheel. Place fabric
between presser fojat and guideplate.
Align marked buttonhole with cut-out of

foot. Line up edge of fabric with markings

on guideplate. If you wish ail buttonholes
to be 3/4" from ed^e of garment, for
example, line up fabrib with 3/4" marking
each time you start el buttonhole.

Now you're ready fo stitch the shape

you've selected-straight, keyhole or
eyelet. Your template will guide you.

PURL-EDGE BUTTONHOLE

to add a professional touch to your sewing

ou will want to make purledged button-

oles. These are obtained by sewing a wide
uttonhole over a narrow stitched button­ole.

hoose the correct size for your button,

risert the template into the guide plate
lurning to the narrower of the sizes. Use the
iiame settings as for regular buttonhole and

just stitch width control to 1.

Drop the guide plate over the pinion gear and

sew around the buttonhole once. (STEP 1)

0 sew wider outer buttonhole, lift the guide

ate from the pinion gear and turn the

Wmplate to wider size. Adjust stitch width

etting to 1.5. and sew around buttonhole

ijjain. (STEP 2)

ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY

Depending upon the fabrics on which you are

|i!Wing, or your own preference in button-

oles, you may alter buttonhole stitch density

I

turning stitch density control knob.

It

For more density, turn the knob toward

you.

For less density, turn the knob away from

you.

43

BOUND BUTTONHOLE

A template has been provided so that you

may sew perfectly sized rfectangles each time

you make a bound buttbnhole. Just follow
the directions given below.

SETTING
Stitch Width - 0 or Stitch Selector

Pressure Regulator - 1 or 2
Other settings same as regular worked
buttonhole

1. Space buttonholes on garment-mark
length on right side of fabric with pins.
Place patch of fabric over each button
hole and mark ends of buttonhole with
chalk or pencil. Bastp patch into place.
Using template similar in size to button
hole, stitch rectangle on patch and
garment. Do not sew over pins. (Fig. 1)

2. Slash through patch and garment to
within 1 /4" of ends of rectangle. Carefully

cut diagonally into corners as shown.
(Fig. 2)

---------------------

oia| fc)i3| (cO iof5|

. I 2>wmJ I I

®(5

Fig. 1

3. Turn patch to wrong side through slash.

Press as shown. (Fig. 3, 4)

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

44

Fold patch forming lips of buttonhole.
Press and baste lips together. (Fig. 5)

V.i

FACING SIDE

I i

I R

¥ f i

Fig, 5

fl. Stitch across pleats formed by lips of

patch. (Fig. 6)

Fig. 6

After buttonhole has been pressed, baste
facing of garment around buttonhole and
slash opening in facing same length as
buttonhole. (Mark ends of buttonhole
with pins for guides). Turn under facing
edges and hem to buttonhole carefully.

a

(Fig. 7, 8)

Slash Opening in Facing

FACING SIDE

Hem to Buttonhole

RIGHTSIDE

Complete Bound Buttonhole Fig. 9

45

Fig. 7

•-T

Fig. 8

t. Remove all bastings and press. (Fig. 9)

DECORATIVE EMBROIDERY DESIGNS

You may get the look and feel of hand
embroidery infinitely faster and easier by your
machine.

Just choose which of the designs you want
to sew alone or in combination with each
other.

TIPS ON DESIGN STITCHING

1. Always make a practice design on a scrap

of the fabric you plan to use.

Z- Start with a full bobbin and plenty of

thread on the spool to avoid running out
of thread in the middle of your design.

3. Reduce the top thread tension slightly.

4. On a very soft fabric you may want to use
a tissue paper backing or organdy that

can be cut away.

5. Decorative designs are very attractive
sewn with a double needle and two colors
or shades of a color of thread.

nvwvTWrW

Domino

Diamond

Crescent

Arabesque

Ù Ù Ù Tree

Tulip

Swan

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE OF YELLOW PATTERNS

When sewing yellow patterns, you may need
to make slight adjustment to the stitch
modifier to produce perfect designs.

If the stitches are too far apart, turn the

control slightly clockwise; if they are closer
together, turn counter-clockwise.

----

--------- ■ ■ ■ ..................................................

46

SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your ¡Sewing Machine, should a
need ever exist for repair parts or fMîrvice, simply contact any
Sears Service Center and most Sjîars, Roebuck and Co. or
Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent

facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing
your nomenclature plate on the fro

Sewing Machine. See Section 1, Pi

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARr$, ALWAYS GIVE THE
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF IT|iyi *PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocke|l locally, your order will be
electronically transmitted to a Seals Repair Parts Distribution
Center for handling.

(Machine will be shown on

ht side of bedplate of your

ge 2 for location.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Îfhicago, IL60684 U S A.

S-158

Printed in Japan

Part No. 69562 9/91