Kenmore 17921 User Manual

Kenmore
SEWING MACHINE MODEL 17921
OWNER’S
MANUAL
Sears, Roebuck and Co.
Dear Homemaker; You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sev/ing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below the model number
and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3
of this booklet.
Model No. Retain these numbers for future reference.
Serial No.

YOUR SEWING PLACE IS ALWAYS READY WITH SEARS KENMORE SEWING FURNITURE

Sewing machine cabinet is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Whenever you're ready to sew, so is your sewing plage. Another option... buy a Carrying Case... then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored
anywhere.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Machine identification
Setting up your machine......................................................4-5
Foot control, Light/power switch, Electronic needle
control. Maximum speed control. Accessory box
Parts list.................................................................................6-7
Spool pins and caps............................................................... 8
Converting to free-arm sewing.............................................. 8
Winding the bobbin................................................................. 9
Threading the bobbin case
Picking up bobbin thread......................................................12
Threading top thread.............................................................11
Picking up bobbin thread......................................................12
CONTROLS
Thread tension control..........................................................13
Stitch selector and indicator. Stitch width control.............14
Stitch length control. Reverse stitch lever. Stitch modifier... 15 Buttonhole control. Pressure regulator Seam guides, Presser foot lever
ACCESSORIES
Needles, Placement of needle Needle, thread and fabric chart, Presser feet
Even feed foot. Adjustable holder........................................20
Edgestitcher, Quilting guide Needle plates. Feed cover plate
CARING FOR THE MACHINE Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle
Oiling................................................................................ 24-25
Changing light bulb
CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS
2. STARTING TO SEW................................................................28
Machine setting chart............................................................29
Straight stitching
Fastening a seam. Turning a square corner. Removing fabric. Top-stitching, darning. Temporary sewing by machine. Zipper application-cording. Narrow hemming. Quilting
Zigzag stitching.................................,...............................35-38
Overcasting, Satin stitching. Bar tacking, Appliqueing, Embroidery, Monogramming, Button sewing
Mending and overcast stitching...........................................39
Box stitch................................................................................40
Blind hemming Scallop stitch
Stretch stitches.................................................................44-47
Adjusting stitch length. Adjusting stitch balance. Straight stretch stitch. Rick-rack stretch. Feather stretch. Smocking stretch. Elastic stretch. Overcast stretch, Paris point stretch
Getting the most from fabrics that give Hints on sewing different fabrics Buttonhole making Decorative Embroidery designs WARRANTY
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Inside back cover
2-3
10
16 17
18 19
21
22
23 25
26 -27
29-34
48-49
49
50 - 58
59-60
1

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

IDENTIFICATION CHART

Top thread tension control
Bobbin winder tension disc
Slotted take-up lever
Threading channel
Face cover
Check spring
Thread guide Needle clamp screw
Presser foot Needle plate Feed dogs
Foldaway carrying handle
Built-in buttonhole control
-Bobbin winder shaft
Bobbin winder latch
Stitch width dial
Stitch indicator
• Stitch selector
Reverse stitch lever
Stitch length dial
Needle up/down switch
Basting switch
Bobbin cover plate
Bobbin window
Accessory box
Maximum speed control
Telescoping spool pin
Rear thread guide
Swing-away spool pin
Hand wheel/, push-pull clutch
Stitch modifier.
Nomenclature plate Light/power switch
Electric cord receptacle
Presser foot lever
Presser foot lock
Thread cutter
Foot control

SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE

1. Install your Kenrnore sewing machine in a Kenmore cabinet, case or set the machine on. a sturdy flat surface.
2. Your Kenmore sewing machine has been thoroughly oiled at the factory. Be sure to
wipe off the needle plate area and bed plate carefully before sewing a garment. It is wise to practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil is absorbed.
3. FOOT CONTROL
Your machine is supplied with an electronic foot control which enables you to sew very slowly. Even at low speed you have extra power for the needle to penetrate through several thicknesses of fabric. Faster speeds are also easily controlled.
1. Pull out the foot control from its
storage position under the free arm. (Fig. 1)
2. Slide pedal lock knob to the right and the foot pedal will pop up to its operating position. Push foot control plug into the cord receptacle on the foot control. (Fig. 2)
3. Push machine plug into the cord receptacle at the rear side of the machine. Then connect power-line plug into any 110-120 volt A.C. wall outlet. (Fig. 2)
4. LIGHT/POWER SWITCH
Your machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on. This same switch controls the machine power, sewing light and indicator lights on the stitch indicator panel and electronic needle control. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the switch.

5. ELECTRONIC NEEDLE CONTROL

Your machine is electronically controlled to stop with the needle in the up position every time you remove pressure from foot control.

NEEDLE UP/DOWN SWITCH

If you wish the machine to stop with the needle in the down position (as in turning a corner), push the left switch. A red light will appear showing you that the machine is so set. To return to the Needle Up
position push the left switch again and when the light disappears, machine is again set to stop with the needle in an up position each time.

BASTING SWITCH

Tap the foot control with the right switch pushed and lighted and the machine will take one stitch only and stop with needle in the up position. This feature provides an electronically controlled basting or tacking to take the chore out of hand
basting.

6. MAXIMUM SPEED CONTROL

You may want to vary the speed of the
machine, sewing slowly in special tight places or if you are a new seamstress. This control can be moved to the left to
slow the sewing of the machine. To increase to the maximum speed, slide the control to the right.
Electronic needle control
control

7. ACCESSORY BOX

Accessory box is opened by lifting the lid up and swinging it toward you as shown. Inside you will find many of the acces sories that you use each time you sew.
The box may be fully removed from the machine to convert it for free arm stitching. See page 8.
PARTS LIST (Use only genuine Kenmore replacement parts and accessories.)
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS,
ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFOR MATION;
1. PART NUMBER
2. PART DESCRIPTION

PRESSER FEET

Straight Stitch Standard Zigzag Satin Stitch Plastic Satin "Q FOOT"
(No. 45171) (No. 44985) (No. 44988) Stitch (No. 43776) (No. 6843)
3. MODEL NUMBER shown on the nomen clature plate. (See page 3 for location.)
4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
"QSET"
(No. 6858)

BUTTONHOLE ACCESSORIES

Built-in Buttonhole Guide
Foot (No. 43840)
Buttonhole Cover
Plate (No. 58210)
Zipper Foot
(No. 6759)
Buttonhole Foot
Blind Hem Foot Overcasting
(No. 6886) (No. 35094)
Buttonhole Guideplate
(No. 58232)
(No. 41040)
Even Feed Foot
(No. 6888)
Included in the buttonholer box
Buttohole Templates
No. 1 Part 45195 No. 2 Part 45196 N0.3 Part 45197 No. 4 Part 45198 No. 5 Part 45199
Buttonhole Opener
(No. 6830)

OTHER VITAL ITEMS

CS)
Zigzag
Needleplate (No. 57860)
Narrow Hemmer
(No. 29396)
Bobbin Winder
Rubber Ring
(No. 1913)
Bobbin Winder
Tension Disc
(No. 39619)
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Packet of needles
with your machine
includes a variety of sizes.
Replacement needles
come in packages
of one size only.
Straight Stitch
Needleplate
Edge Stitcher
(No. 29306)
Light Bulb
(No. 6797)
Feed Cover
Plate
Quilting Guide
(No. 35105)
Foot Control
(No. 57544)
Needle Size No. 9 No. 11 No. 14 No. 16 No. 18
"Q NEEDLE" Double Needle
2 Spool Pin Caps
Large — No. 55503
Lint Brush
(No. 35848)
Foot Control Cord
(No. 57543)
Part No.
6550 6551 6552 6553 6554 6746 6749
Nylon Disc (No. 2273)
Small Screw Driver
Mini Screw Driver
Bobbin Box with
10 Metal Bobbins
Plastic Bobbins
Adjustable
Holder
(No. 29308)
(No. 55501) (No. 55500)
Magnetized (No. 55499)
(No. 6862) (No. 6868)
Ruffler/Pleater
(No. 6895)
Hinged Zipper
Foot (No. 6794)
Needle Threader
(No. 43780)
Oiler-brush Combination
(No. 6889)

SPOOL PINS AND CAPS

Swing the Primary Spool Pin into position at the back of the machine as shown above. Place a spool of thread on the pin and place the appropriate size spool cap over the thread.

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

This machine can be used either as a flatbed or as a freearm model. With the accessory box in place, the machine is a flatbed model with a large working surface, which slopes gently towards you to help the smooth flow of fabric.
A second telescoping spool pin is provided for bobbin winding and for a second thread when sewing with a double needle. Pull it out and place a nylon disc over it when using.
By removing the accessory box, the machine converts into a slim freearm model for sewing children's clothes, cuffs, trouser legs, armholes and other awkward places.
1. To remove the accessory box, take it firmly with your left hand and lift it up until it clicks. Your machine is then ready for free arm sewing.
8
2. To replace, slide the accessory box back
into place until it clicks.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
1.
Place thread on Telescoping Spool Pin. Draw thread through Rear Thread Guide and Bobbin Winder Tension Disc as indicated.
2.
Pull end of thread through any hole in bobbin; place bobbin on Bobbin Winder
Shaft with end of thread coming from top of bobbin as shown above.
3. Push Bobbin Winder Latch against bobbin until it clicks. Then pull Hand Wheel away from machine to disengage clutch (see diagram below). Hold end of thread
coming from bobbin (see above) and step on foot control. After several rotations of bobbin release thread.
4. When bobbin is full, winding stops
automatically. Push in Hand Wheel. Remove bobbin from shaft and trim thread end.
* Treat Hand Wheel as a "clutch"
It controls the needle mechanism so that when pulled out (disengaged), the rest of
the machine will not operate while the bobbin is being wound.
For best stitching results use clear plastic lightweight bobbins when stitching at high speed with widest and longest stitch setting.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Remove accessory box.
2. Remove bobbin cover plate by lifting up
the front.
3. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making
sure bobbin rotates counter clockwise.
4. Pull thread through slot (A) and then to
the left.
10
5. Pull thread through slot (B) and leave
about 4 inches of thread.
6. Replace bobbin cover plate allowing thread to emerge through slot in needle plate.
THREADING TOP THREAD
Fig. 1
Raise slotted take-up lever to its highest position.
Place thread spool onto spool pin. Place appropriate spool cap over the spool of
thread. Draw thread through rear thread guide
(A) and into threading channel (B) toward you. (Fig. 1)
Fig. 3
2. Draw thread down and around check spring (C) and up through slotted take-up lever (D). (Fig. 2)
3. Draw thread down into thread guides (E) and (F). Thread needle from front to back as shown in Fig. 3.
11
PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD
1. Raise presser foot lever.
Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and push. peedle up/down switch two times or rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn.
2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper
thread.
3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to 4 inches of thread clear.
If ycwj can not pick up bottom thread by following above steps, then check:
1. Is needle threaded ?
2. Is thread tangled around needle ?
3. Is bobbin case threaded correctly with thread going through slots A and B as shown on page 10, Fig. 4 and 5 ?
4. Is there 4 inches of thread coming from bobbin case and through slot of needle
plate as shown on page 10, Fig. 6 ?
5. Is thread from bobbin case tangled ?
12

CONTROLS

THREAD TENSION CONTROL

STRAIGHT STITCHING

The good looking appearance of your straight stitching is, mainly determined by the
balanced tension of the top thread and bobbin thread. The tension is well balanced when the two threads lock in the middle of the layers of fabric when straight stitching.
You can achieve balanced tension by
regulating the Top Thread Tension Control.
If the upper thread appears to be too tight, dial left (lower numbers) to decrease tension.
If the upper thread is too loose, dial right
(higher numbers) to increase tension. For most fabrics the tension control shuld be set in the white zone between 3 and 5.

ZIGZAG STITCHING

Always practice stitching on two layers of the fabric you will be using.
Make sure that you are using the right size and type of needle for the fabric. See chart page 19.
Choose a thread of good quality and type for your fabric. See chart page 19.
Remember — the wider the zigzag setting, the more chance for puckering. Reduce the top tension, if puckering occurs.
The top thread will be visible on the bottom
to varying degrees depending on the thread,
fabric, type of stitch being used and speed of
sewing.
The bobbin thread should never be visible on
the top of the fabric.
STRAIGHT STITCH
JUST RIGHT
TOP STITCH
TOO TIGHT
-JLJL-Jci
Decrease tension
TOP STITCH
TOO LOOSE
Increase tension

BOBBIN TENSION

The bobbin tension has been correctly set at the factory, so you do not need to adjust it.
13
Stitch selector

STITCH SELECTOR AIMD INDICATOR

1. To select a stitch, be sure needle is out of fabric at its highest position. Push the stitch selector in and out to release the
mechanism.
2. Then turn the selector to left or right until
the required stitch is indicated by the red light on the indicator panel.

STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

The width of all the stitches produced on this
machine, with the obvious exception of
straight stitch, can be made narrower or wider by adjusting the stitch width control.
14
To decrease or increase the width of a stitch, turn the stitch width control dial from 0 - 4. The higher the number the wider the stitch.
Recommended setting ranges are indicated
and color-coded with patterns on the stitch
indicator panel.
When sewing with a double needle, do not use a setting above 2, as indicated on the dial.
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
The stitch length control regulates the length of the stitch'you select. THE HIGHER'THE
NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH.
Turn only the« outer rim of this control to set the stitch length.
The number on stitch length control indicates the approximate number of stitches per inch. The stitch setting you use will be determined
by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing.
A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric. The
middle range of the control is the 12 stitch per inch range which is the most commonly used.
Recommended stitch length settings are indicated in three colors. The colors are color-coded with the stitches on the indicator panel.
The red marking between 0 and 1 Is the setting used for the shortest stitches such as in satin stitching.

REVERSE STITCH LEVER

Stitch length control
m
-12
ctronic
Reverse stitch lever

Stitch modifier

It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse. This is called back tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the
seams firmly and prevents raveling. When reverse stitching is needed, push
down the lever and hold there during sewing. The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and seam will be fastened.
STITCH MODIFIER
When using stretch stitches and making buttonholes, you may need to make use of the stitch modifier. This regulates the movement of the fabric backwards and
forwards to produce perfect stitches on fine
or thick fabrics.
The stitch modifier should be in neutral notched position for most materials.
15
BUTTONHOLE CONTROL
This control is used in making bar tacked buttonholes with two control settings. Detailed instructions are given on page 51.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Presser foot pressure is vital for straight
seams, uniform stitch length, even handling
of both layers of fabric. To adjust pressure; use Pressure Regulator which is situated
inside the face cover. Then to increase
pressure, turn the dial clockwise (or vice versa). Just remember... for lightweight fabric, more pressure; for heavy fabric, less
pressure. -
16

SEAM GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on needle plate, at both sides of needle, to help you line up the fabric and keep it straight. The standard seam width is 5/8”. So these lines are emphasized, easy to follow.
Also the cross lines are "cornering guides” to help when turning a square corner 5/8” from the fabric edge. (For details on cornering, see
page 30.)

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

Presser foot lever has a two position lift. In order to place heavy fabric under the presser foot or to change the presser foot raise the presser foot lever to its maximum upward position as shown.
Cornering Guide
17

ACCESSORIES

NEEDLES
I I I
TPI
Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the
thread and both should be suitable to the fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded by size for your convenience (See chart on next page).
Never use a bent needle or one with a dull
point. The exact length of your needle is shown at
left. Be sure you never use one in your
machine that is not this exact length.
You will find among your accessories a
•Q NKKDLK' -with blue shank. This special needle is to be used when sewing knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you
experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use -Q nkkdlK"-and "Q FOOT"..

PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE

you
Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far
as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with small screwdriver provided in the accessory box.
18
NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART
FABRIC
i
LIGHTWEIGHT; Batiste. Dimity,
Chiffon. Silks. Synthetic Jerseys.
Fine Lace. Organza. Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy
MEDIUMWEIGHT: Cotton,
■ Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham. , Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,
Satin. Knits, Vinyl. Suitings. Linen, Wool Crepe. Leather
MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT:
Corduroy, Denim. Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather
HEAVYWEIGHT: Coatings,
Upholstery. Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching on all
types of fabric
Synthetic Knits and Stretch;
Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretcn Terry, Spandex, Ciré Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
9-BROWN
or
11 ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16 PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18 GREEN
or
Q-BLUE
Q-BLUE
with.
•QFOOT"
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton Silk A
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Silk A
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Heavy-Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Synthetic Silk A
Buttonhole Twist
Polyester Core/ Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
12 stitches
per inch
10 to 12 stitches
per inch
8 to 10 stitches
per inch
8 stitches
per inch
6 stitches
per inch
10 for Regular
or ,
6 for Stretch
Stitches

PRESSER FEET

To change presser feet, simply drop Presser Foot Lock and slip foot away from the Presser Bar. Raise Presser Foot Lever beyond the normal up position and place new foot on presser bar. To lock foot securely, raise presser foot lock as high as possible.
19

EVEN FEED FOOT

The even feed foot moves top and bottom
material together evenly and enables you to sew hard-to-sew fabrics without sliding nor slipping and with perfect matching. Use it for sewing leather, ultra suede™, shiny fabrics
(vinyls, patents and satins), bonded fabrics, pile fabrics and matching stripes, plaids and patterns. It is not recommended for use when stretch stitching.
To attach the even feed foot;
1. Raise needle to its highest position.
2. Raise presser bar to its highest position
and guide the even feed foot into position from rear of machine.
3. Attach presser bar clamp to presser bar
and lift presser foot lock as high as it will go to hold the foot securely.
4. Attach screw (A) provided with the foot
to needle clamp through fork arm and tighten it.
Note: Attach the foot in exact order of steps
as written.
Thumb screw
Narrow hemmer
IMPORTANT: To prevent friction and wear, put a drop of oil
at each point indicated by arrows in Fig. 2 and set pressure regulator at 2 or 3 before using this foot.
Oil after 4 or 5 times usage. Be sure to remove excess oil by wiping foot thoroughly and sewing on a scrap of fabric.

ADJUSTALBLE HOLDER

Replace the regular presser foot with the
adjustable holder when using narrow hemmer and edge stitcher attachment.
Loosen thumb screw and press it forward. Insert the opposite end into the large hole of the attachment. Slide the attachment to the left as far as possible. Adjust as necessary to the correct position for stitching. Tighten the thumb screw securely.
20

EDGESTITCHER

This one attachment helps you join fabric
edges ...insert lace ...do seam piping ... simplifies blind hemming as well as "French” seams. Slots numbered 1 to 5 serve as sewing guides:
Slot 1 will giiide fabric to be joined to lace. All you have to do is place the lace in slot 2.
Slot 4 will guide piping being joined to fabric edges. Place the fabric in slots 2 or 3.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide when sewing French seams which are stitched twice, once on right side and once on other side. This is the classic seam for sheers.
Use slots 1 and 3 to guide during blind hemming.
fabric with ease

QUILTING GUIDE

This attachment comes in handy whenever you want several rows of stitches an equal distance apart —for garment trim as well as quilts. It consists of a curved prong attached to a long bar on a holder. The prong is shifted back and forth on the holder to establish the distance between rows of stitches.
21
Fig. 1
NEEDLE PLATES
You are provided with two needle plates: A. Needle plate with wide oval hole for all
zigzag stitching.
B. Needle plate with round hole for regular
straight stitching and straight stretch sewing.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot. .
2. Remove accessory box and bobbin cover
plate.
3. Remove needle plate by placing thumb under edge of plate and lifting up and out. (See Fig. 2)
4. Place other needle plate making sure bobbin case is in proper position as shown in Fig. 3 by turning it counter clockwise until it hits bobbin case stopper. Push down the needle plate with both hands to lock.
5. Replace bobbin cover plate.
22
IMPORTANT:
Don't turn hand wheel while needle plate is removed, or needle may hit bobbin case and cause needle damage.
Don't touch screws on the bobbin case stopper.

FEED COVER PLATE

There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric yourself.
Raise needle to its highest position and raise
presser foot. Place feed cover plate over
needle plate aligning two pins of feed cover
plate with holes of needle plate. You may
then determine the movement of the fabric
yourself.

CARING FOR THE MACHINE

CLEANING THE FEED DOGS
WITH A BRUSH
To insure the best possible operation of your
machine, it is necessary to keep the essential
parts clean at all times. Remove bobbin cover plate and needle plate.
Using a small brush, remove the lint that
accumulates in and around the feed dogs and shuttle area.

CLEANING AND OILING SHUTTLE AREA

On rare occasions, you may want to clean the
shuttle area. Just follow these simple steps.
1. Remove bobbin case by lifting it out from
left side.
2. Clean the shuttle with small brush and put a drop of oil to the points indicated by
arrows. Don't over-oil. (Reminder: don't
use household oil...use sewing machine oil.)

REPLACING BOBBIN CASE

1.
Insert bobbin case into shuttle from left side and turn it counter-clockwise until it hits bobbin case stopper.
2.
Replace needle plate in position.
NOTE: Don't touch screws on the bobbin
case stopper. Oil and lint brush No. 6889 is available
at most Sears retail stores and catalog.
24

OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE

Swing face cover plate open and oil points
indicated by arrows in illustration.

OILING IN END COVER PLATE

A drop of oil should be placed through the hole indicated in the end cover plate.

CHANGING LIGHT BULB

The sewing light is located inside the face
cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb, push switch to off, unplug machine and
swing the face cover plate open. Push up on
the bulb slightly and turn bulb to the left.
Withdraw bulb from socket. Push in new bulb and turn to the right.

CHECKING

SUSPECTED PROBLEM IRREGULAR
STITCHES
BREAKING NEEDLE
BUNCHING OF
THREAD
PUCKERING
SKIPPING STITCHES
BREAKING UPPER
THREAD
BREAKING BOBBIN
THREAD
PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle.
Improper threading.
■'Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Light pressure on presser foot. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at needleplate opening.
Pulling fabric. ■ Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser
foot before starting seam. Incorrect thread tension(s).
Light pressure on presser foot.
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle. Loose presser foot. Fabric too sheer or too soft.
Incorrect size needle.
Certain knits and synthetics.
Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Light pressure on presser foot. Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect size needle. Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs at needleplate opening.
Improper bobbin case threading. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
FABRIC NOT MOVING
MACHINE JAMMING, KNOCKING NOISE
MACHINE DOES NOT SEW
26
Feed cover plate attached. Light pressure on presser foot.
Thread knotted under fabric. Thread caught in shuttle.
Damaged needle. Bent needle plate.
Hand wheel not returned to stitching position. Power cord not connected. Power/light switch off.

POSSIBLY EASY CORRECTION

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Rethread machine; check tension spring threading.
Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Increase pressure on presser foot. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Reset needle. Reset presser foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4” and hold until a few stitches are formed.
Reset thread tension(s). Increase pressure on presser foot. Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind. Insert new needle. Reset presser foot. Use underlay of tissue paper.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Use "Q NEEDLE"’” and "Q FOOT"’". Insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread tension. Increase pressure on presser foot.
Start to stitch at a medium speed. Rethread machine. Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Insert new needle. Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely.
Check bobbin case threading. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Remove feed cover plate. Increase pressure on presser foot. Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch.
Disassemble and clean shuttle. Replace needle.
Replace needle plate.
Push in clutch.
Check plug. Push to on position.
27

2. STARTING TO SEW

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Check the needle-it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point.
It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 3 - 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of
fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8” seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
seam.
28
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed.
The more pressure you put on the foot
control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in
front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually,
always turn it toward you.

MACHINE SETTING CHART

Buttonhole
control
OI
"vi
Needle plate
; ÜÜ
: CZ3
%!y
Presser foot
Stitch width dial
Stitch modifier
Lt
Stitch length dial
Machine settings are graphically shown in
this section for your quick reference. Simply
Buttonhole Straight stitch
Zigzag Straight stretch Rick-rack stretch
N -X 'S,
^ '■ X^
/ ^./ \/ \/ \,/ \
Feather stretch
Smocking stretch Elastic stretch Mending Box Blind
following illustrated charts, select and sew a variety of stitches shown below...
Elastic blind stitch Domino
Diamond Crescent Scallop Overcast stretch Paris point stretch
Arabesque Tree Tulip Swan
29

STRAIGHT STITCHING

O ;
L
'Straight stitch
needle plate
O
Not necessary to
adjust
Any setting but "0"
*You may use zigzag, straight stitch foot or Q foot,
but for best control of fabric, best looking straight stitches and best feeding of fabric use Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate.
30

FASTENING A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam.
Depress the reverse stitch lever and stitch in
reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, depress the reverse stitch lever and sew back (backtack) over 1/2 inch of completed seam.

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

1. To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching when reaching the cornering guide and push needle up/ down switch to lower the needle into the fabric.
*2. Raise the presser foot and turn fabric.
New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction.

REMOVING FABRIC

First turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw materials to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar as shown.

TOP-STITCHING

This is a seam you may want to show off! It's on the front side of the garment, possibly at the top of a "kick pleat" or on a lapel, both functional and decorative. Usually, it's a simple, forward stitch —with an extra-long stitch length, or with special thread, match ing or contrasting.

DARNING

SETTINGS Stitch Length - 8 to 10
Pressure Regulator - 0 (DARN)
Zigzag foot or square automatic buttonhole foot
Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Lower presser bar and sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning
area. When it is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a
turn and sew layer of stitching across first
layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area,
you may want to put a separate piece under
the hole for reinforcement.
31
Regular Basting
Free Method

TEMPORARY SEWING BY MACHINE

Regular basting by machine is easy —simply use straight stitching with longest available length setting. And your machine has a free basting method for very long stitches that sometimes can be used for "marking”.
FREE BASTING METHOD
SETTINGS
Basting switch - turn on
Pressure regulator - 0 (DARN) or 1
Use feed cover plate. Tap the foot control and the machine will
take one stitch and stop automatically with the needle in the up position. Holding the fabric in both hands, pull it back to the required stitch length.
Repeat this process, tapping down on the
foot control and guiding the fabric with your
hands.
32
PIN BASTING
You can sew over pins easily (if done
correctly) because your presser feet are
hinged. Pins must be inserted at right angles
to seam line. Tip of pin should just touch seam line. Sew over tip of pins. Pins must not come in contact with feed dogs: Never pin on the under-side of the fabric. Sew slowly. If in doubt about sewing over pins, remove each pin as you approach it.
STAY-STITCHING "Stay-stitching” is a form of temporary
seaming that prevents stretching of curved
edges of garments. Usually this is on a single
layer of fabric, so reduce top thread tension
slightly to prevent puckering. Baste about
Vi" away from intended seamline.

ZIPPER APPLICATION - CORDING

Home-sewn zippers can look as nice as those on expensive ready-mades. We recomrriend you follow directions ^ given on zipper package. There are two basic types: conven tional, and invisible. Your Zipper Foot will assist you with any of these installations. Use these simple settings:
For conventional zippers... Your zipper foot
is adjustable for use on right or left side of
needle. Adjust foot so needle clears side notch on foot. Then proceed according to
zipper manufacturer's instructions.
Invisible zippers are applied to an open seam, to seam allowances only; there is no stitch ing visible , on outside of garment. Adjust zipper foot so needle is sewing through center hole of foot and one groove of foot is riding on teeth of zipper. After zipper insertion, finish by shifting foot to side position and sewing through side notch.
Your zipper foot also makes it easy to add "cording" to garments as well as slip covers, toss pillows, bedspreads, decorative pieces. Cut fabric on bias and wrap around cord. Pin fabric in place so seam edges are even.
With zipper foot to left of needle, stitch close to cord.
33
' - .S' . c
NARROW HEMMING
Attach the Narrow Hemmer to the adjustable
holder. Make sure that edge of the fabric is cut straight. Turn a tiny double hem (% inch) along edge for about two inches. Place end of this hem under Narrow Hemmer. Hold thread taut while stitching along inside' edge of hem. Feed fabric gradually into "scroll" in hemmer, guiding edge of fabric as shown.
QUILTING
Attach the quilting guide to presser foot as shown. After completing the first row of stitching, place the guiding prong on this Stitched line. The second row then can be placed at the desired distance from first row. Continue working in this way for as many rows as you want.
34

ZIGZAG STITCHING

Simple zigzag stitching enables you to do
many exciting things with your Kenmore sewing machine. Beyond basics, you'll use zigzag stitching to applique, embroider and
monogram. Unlike straight stitches, zigzag stitches have a side-to-side width as well as a
o

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vwwwwwww
o
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stitch length. You'll find "recipes" for many zigzag operations on following pages. You can create an exciting variety of zigzag stitches by adjusting stitch width and length controls (see chart below).
Narrow zigzag for light fabrics, barely shows — set at 1.
Medium zigzag for most construction seams — set at 2
Wide zigzag for double layers, like hemm ing — set at 3.
Extra wide zigzag for heavy fabrics or those that fray — set width at 4
35

OVERCASTING

Stitch Selector - AAAAA Stitch Length - 12-8 Stitch Width - 3-4 Use Overcast Foot.
This is one of the .nnore frequently used zigzag stitches on garment construction. You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling.

SATIN STITCHING

Stitch Selector - AAAAA Stitch Length Dial - Between 0 and 24 (•) Use metal or plastic Satin stitch foot which is grooved to permit dense stitching to pass under it easily.
Satin stitch
foot
Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch used for appliqueing, bar tacking.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be.
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, use a
backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will
not be visible on the right side of the fabric. As with all special stitches, it is best to make
a sample design on your fabric before starting
the design on the garment.

BAR TACKING

Settings same as Satin Stitching This stitch is similar to a very short satin
stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
36

APPLIQUEING

Settings same as Satin Stitching
Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely cóvering the edge. You may want
to do this with a contrasting color of thread.

EMBROIDERY

Settings same as Satin Stitching Satin stitch can be used to produce many
different designs and patterns. To sew the
flowers illustrated, back the fabric with
interfacing or paper and draw on the design
with tailor's chalk. Turn the stitch width
control from 0-4-0 to from each petal and leaf. Join the flowers and leaves with straight
stretch stitch. If using paper, carefully
remove it when you have finished sewing.

MONOGRAMMING

Settings same as Satin Stitching To sew initials, first back the fabric with
interfacing or paper. Draw the initials on to
the fabric with tailor's chalk. Satin stitch, adjusting the width from 0-4 as you begin and end the stroke of a letter. Or the same stitch width can be used throughout. If using paper, carefully remove it when you have
finished sewing.
37

BUTTON SEWING

Stitch Selector - AAAAA Stitch Width - Adjust to Button Size Use Feed Cover Plate and Clear Plastic Satin Stitch Foot.
1. Position the button on fabric with clear
tape.
2. Center the left hole of button between straight seamline and the left edge of
needle slot of foot and lower foot to hold
the button securely.
3. Turn hand wheel manually until needle point is just above button.
4. Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter right hole of the button.
5. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole. Readjust stitch width
if necessary. Stitch a number of times.
6. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of
thread remaining. Draw these threads to
reverse side of garment and tie.
When sewing a flat button, place needle or
pin between holes of button as shown to provide flexibility for buttoning.
38

MENDING AND OVERCAST STITCHING (THREE STEP ZIGZAG)

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MENDING A TEAR

Stitch Length - 0-24 Stitch Width- 3-4
To repair a straight or three-cornered tear,
position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is
well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for
reinforcement.
OVERCASTING with mending stitch
Stitch Length - 24-12
Stitch Width - 3-4 Three-step zig-zag is a strong stitch because,
as its name implies, it takes three short stitches where normal zig-zag takes one. For this reason it is highly recommended for overcasting, i. e. finishing a raw edge, on all
types of fabric.
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39

BOX STITCH

mmm
Stitch Length - 24-12 Stitch Width - 2-4

OVERLAPPED SEAM

Box stitch is ideal for producing fiat overlapped seams on almost any type of fabric and a bolder effect will result from sewing with a contrasting thread.
Overlap the raw edges of two pieces of fabric 2” and pin or tack. Place the fabric right side up with the middle of the overlap under the center of the presser foot, so that the stitch sews just over the top and bottom raw edges.

DECORATIVE EDGING

Turn the raw edge under 2” and press. Place
the fabric right side up with the middle of the turnover under the center of the presser foot, so that the stitch sews on to the fold and just over the raw edge underneath.
40

BUND HEMMING

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A/^AAA ’
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Blind hemming is a good technique to use on garments, and especially on curtains and drapery hems so that stitches need not show on the front of the fabric. Because your
Kenmore has two types of blindstitches built in, blind hemming is easier than you'd expect. It's just a matter of folding... give it a try!
YYYY
■Regular blind
normal fabrics
- Elastic blind stitch for soft,
stretchable fabrics
stitch for

PROCEDURE

Stitch Length ­Stitch Width -
Finish raw edge of fabric appropriately. You may want to use seam tape on woven fabrics.
With knits use a lace seam tape or just use decorative stretch stitch.
12
VA -2
41
GUIDE
Working on wrong side of fabric, fold hem
up. Press and pin in place. Then fold hem allowance under... leaving %" of hem edge extending.
Place garment under blind stitch foot with the fold of the garment against guide and slide it by turning screw so that the zigzag just catches the fold. (Blind hemming can be simplified by also using the special Kenmore
Edgestitcher-please refer to p. 21 for details.)
Now the right side of your garment will show only the blind stitches ! Be sure to press both sides of the finished hem !
42
SHELL STITCHING with blind hem pattern
Stitch Length - 12 Stitch Width - 2-4
This shell-stitched edge is a popular finish for lingerie and nightgowns. To achieve this multiple scalloped effect, allow needle to clear just the left edge of the fabric when it
zigzags.

SCALLOP STITCH

PROCEDURE

1. With right sides of fabric together, sew
near the folded edge with scallop stitch.
2. Trim allowance to 1/8". or less. Notch
curves if necessary. Cut down into points.
3. Turn to right side and push scallops out evenly. If they do not seem even, be sure curves are notched similarly. Fig. 2.
4. Press flat.

STRETCH STITCHES

ol --
c=>
See next page.
■ o
/
® @ (D © ® ® @
Zigzag needle plate
Zigzag or Q foot
Stretch stitches, as their names imply, are mainly for use on stretch and knit fabrics such as stretch nylon, stretch towelling,
jersey and cotton jersey; and for sewing
together knitted garments. Stretch stitches are also often used on non-stretch fabrics.
1. Straight stretch
2. Rick-rack stretch
3. Feather stretch
4. Smocking stretch
5. Elastic stretch
6. Overcast stretch
7. Paris point stretch ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
Depending upon your preference in stitch patterns, you may make stretch stitches closer together without changing the balance of stitches by turning stitch length control to lower numbers within yellow zone.
Within yellow zone
44

ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH BALANCE

Stitch modifier should be in neutral (notched) position for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches. If the stitches are too open, turn the control slightly clockwise; if the stitches overlap, turn the control counter-clockwise.

RECOMMENDATION

1. It is recommended you use the Q set for
sewing knit and woven synthetic fabrics.
2. It may be necessary to use an interfacing or backing when sewing very soft and thin knits or woven synthetic fabrics.

STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH

SETTINGS Stitch Selector - =====
Stitch Length - Yellow Zone Stitch Width - Any number (not necessary
to adjust)
You may use either a zig zag or straight stitch foot BUT-- for best control of fabric, best looking straight stitches and best feeding of fabric use Straight Stitch Foot and Straight Stitch Needle Plate.
Use this stretch stitch with knit or synthetic
fabric. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch.
This is also a good stitch to use on curved
seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain
when worn should be sewn with the stretch
stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.
< ♦-
Rick - Rack Stretch Smocking Stretch
45

RICKI-RACK STRETCH STITCH

Selector-
stiteb
Stilish
Length- Yellow Zone
Width- Yellow Zone
SeWion stretch fabrics in any area that you rrtibht use a zig zag stitch. This stitch can be usfll gs a decorative top stitch as well.
It M
whtete anothii
ieful also on lapped or abutted seams
you lap one edge of a seam over
ir with seamlines meeting in the center.

HER STRETCH STITCH

Selector ­Length - Yellow Zone
Stiteh
Width - 2-4
Stitph This
lingeri
tapei.
a good stitch to use with laces, on
IS
e, bra and girdles; and to apply bias It's great when quilting.
46

SMOCKING STRETCH STITCH

Selector - 95^5^5^
Stitph Stitch Stitch
Length - Yellow Zone
Width - 2-4
T Make a straight line of gathers across the
fabric that you wish to smock.
ith a narrow strip of fabric directly
W
hder the line of gathering, stitch over the
u
athers. The design will be a series of
S
mail diamonds.
s
Notei When smocking a garment, the stitch
ing should be done before the piece is sewn into the garment.

ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector - AAA<V\ Stitch Length - Yellow Zone Stitch Width - 2-4
Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in garments. Simply stitch elastic into place, making sure it is evenly spaced. To do this, mark the correct length piece into quarters, then match these markings with center front and side seams.

OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector - AAAAA Stitch Length - Yellow Zone Stitch Width - 4
This is the same type stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear-it forms and finishes the seam in one operation (for seams of Vi" to %")• It's very effective for use in repairing raw or worn edges of
older garments.

PARIS POINT STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector Stitch Length ­Stitch Width -
Excellent for hemstitching table and bed covers with a elegant touch. Picot-like stitch can also be made on sheer materials. Sew along the raw edge of fabric and trim close to
the outside of the stitching.
null
12
2-3
47

GETTING THE MOST FROM FABRICS THAT GIVE

Some stretchy suggestions... Be sure to use the Q SET'“ with knits and any
synthetic woven fabric — and zigzag or satin foot as required.
Loosely constructed knits sometimes catch over toes of presser foot. To remedy this,
wrap short strip of transparent tape around
the foot encasing both toes.
To avoid tangled threads when working with
knits, start seams carefully. Position fabric
WHERE TO USE WHICH STRETCH STITCH: A CHECK-CHART
Specially for Stretch
Use on stretch and knit fabrics and to repair ready made garments at stress points. Basic stitch for all garment seams requiring "give” (i.e. armholes, crotch area, etc.).
Use also to sew center seam of men's neck ties and seams
STRAIGHT STRETCH
cut on the bias. A basic multi-purpose stretch stitch with same usage as
zigzag stitch, especially for lightweight stretch fabrics.
and lower needle before lowering presser foot.
It is always a good idea to test thread tension
and stitches on a scrap of the fabric being used.
Knits contain more yarn than woven fabrics, so you will need to take greater care to keep
your machine clean specially in feed dog and
bobbin case area.
RICK-RACK STRETCH
Use with laces, on lingerie, bra and girdles; and to apply
<<<<<<<<<<<
FEATHER STRETCH
SMOCKING STRETCH
vwww
ELASTIC STRETCH
AAAAAAA
OVERCAST STRETCH
1 1 1 1 1 1
PARIS POINT STRETCH
bias tape. It's great when quilting.
A decorative stitch for use on children's clothing, lingerie, yokes of blouses, dress bodice.
Use to apply elastic to top of lingerie or to repair ready made lingerie and replace or restitch elastic.
Use on sportswear where 14” seams are required. Makes and finishes seams at same time.
Use for hemstitching and seam finishes. Also for applique and other decorative elastic blind hem, hem on knits.
%
48
A/VVWW\
PLAIN ZIGZAG
"Everyday" Stitches with Stretch Applications
Use for all-purpose stretch sewing, seam finishing, edge finishing, or attaching stretch laces.
YYW
A good shell stitch for nylon tricot lingerie.
BLIND HEM
Can be use for attaching girdle panels and applying stretch laces.
CRESCENT STITCH

HINTS ON SEWING DIFFERENT FABRICS

The chart below provides many details but you'll also want to remember...
•Soft fabrics may need backing — especially
where stitches are close together.
•In sewing knits, if you can't match fabric and thread exactly, use the strongest fine thread available and use a Q NEEDLE.
FABRICS USEFUL STITCHES TO USE
Overcast Stretch Feather Stitch
NYLON TRICOT
TERRY CLOTH
REGULAR
CORDUROY
TERRY CLOTH
STRETCH
LEATHER Straight or simple Zigzag
STRETCH KNITS FOR SWIMWEAR
AND SKIWEAR
OR GIRDLES
Elastic Stretch Blind Hem Mending Stitch Crescent Stitch Paris Point Stretch Elastic Blind Hem
Simple Zigzag Mending Stitch Paris Point Stretch
Simple Zigzag Mending Stitch Overcast Stretch
Overcast Stretch Crescent Stitch Elastic Stretch Mending Stitch Feather Stitch Scallop Stitch Elastic Blind Hem
•When working on tweed — or other multi
colored bulky fabrics — use one color thread
on bobbin, another on top. (Great for
repairs — the "patch" practically dis
appears!)
SPECIAL NOTIONS TO USE
QNEEDLE™ Polyester, nylon or
dacron core thread
QFOOT™
Mercerized Thread Size 14 needle
Mercerized Thread Polyester, nylon or
dacron core thread
QNEEDLE™ □ FOOT™
Mercerized or silk thread Size 14 needle Vi pressure on presser foot Even feed foot
Polyester, nylon or
dacron core thread
Q NEEDLE™ QFOOT™
Lace seam tape Pre-shrunk zippers
49
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
Your Kenmore brings you two buttonhole
systems along with several special acces sories that enable you to solve all your clothes "closing" problems. '
Your built-in system enables you to sew buttonholes with finished ends (bar-tacked) by simply turning the stitch selector. Only two control settings are required. An
important aid is the buttonhole guide foot.
Your buttonhole attachment is a Kenmore "special" that guides the fabric for you,
eliminates the need to turn fabric by hand. You will find following parts in your
accessory box:
1. Buttonhole guide plate.
2. Five templates which give you a choice
of buttonhole styles and lengths.
50
3. Cover plate with pinion gear.
4. Buttonhole foot.
TIPS ON BUTTONHOLING
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use.
Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitch
ing, if it is used.
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your
top thread tension slightly.
Buttonhole attachment
BUTTONHOLE MAKING - BUILT-IN SYSTEM

PREPARATION

Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment. Place the fabric with the buttonhole marked under the buttonhole foot. Puli the guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the index mark (B) is aligned with the graduation
(C), with thread to rear. (Reproduction of the identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the both sides of the buttonhole guide foot. These gardua­tions are 1/8" (left side) or 2.5 mm (right side) apart. Graduations act as reference mark.)

PROCEDURE

1. Switch the control to left. (If it has been already at left, set it at right, sew several stitches and switch to left again.) Step on
foot control to form first bartack and left
side of buttonhole.
2. When you reach end of left side, switch
the control to the right and complete the buttonhole.
©
@
51

ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY

Less density
i
• .1
I 1»
—24
1 1
More density
Depending upon the fabrics on which you are sewing, or your own preference in button holes, you may alter buttonhole stitch density by varying the original stitch length setting
within the green buttonhole zone.
1. For more density, turn the dial toward
A
"0".
2. For less density, turn the dial toward
"12”.

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

Stitch length differences in forward and reverse stitches of the buttonhole are equalized with the stitch modifier.
If the reverse stitches are too far apart, turn the modifier slightly clockwise; if they are too close together, turn counter-clockwise.
52

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Hook filler cord (crotchet thread or button hole twist) to the spur (A), pull both ends of
cord forward under foot and tie to the spur
(B). Sew buttonhole in such a way that
zigzag stitches cover the cord. When stitching is completed, release cord
from foot, pull ends of cord and snip off extra
length.
BUTTONHOLE MAKING - USING BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT
1 - VA
eHHHHI
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REGULAR WORKED BUTTONHOLE (STRAIGHT, KEYHOLE AND EYE LET)
Zigzag needle plate
and feed cover plate
Buttonhole foot
Any setting

PROCEDURE

Stitch Selector - AAAAA Stitch Width - ^ -VA Zigzag Needle Plate
Feed Cover Plate Buttonhole Foot
Raise needle to its highest position and
1.
raise presser foot. Remove accessory box
and bobbin cover plate.
Insert buttonhole cover plate at 45 degree
angle and snap it down into place
pressing it against the needle plate.
Select correct template for type button
2.
hole you want. Insert template into slot of
guide plate. Turn template advance knob
until desired size appears in window on the top side of guide plate.
53
3. Slip guide plate onto machine so it fits in place with pinion gear in the center of arc hole of template. Be sure guide block is inserted in guide slot.
54
Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate by turning hand wheel. Place fabric
between presser foot and guideplate. Align marked buttonhole with cut-out of foot. Line up edge of fabric with markings
on guideplate. If you wish all buttonholes
to be 3/4" from edge of garment, for
example, line up fabric with 3/4" marking
each time you start a buttonhole.
Now you're ready to stitch the shape
you've selected-straight, keyhole or
eyelet. Your template will guide you.
PURL-EDGE BUTTONHOLE
To add a professional touch to your sewing you will want to make purledged button
holes. These are obtained by sewing a wide buttonhole over a narrow stitched button
hole. ' Choose the correct size for your button,
insert the template into the guide plate
turning to the narrower of the sizes. Use the
same settings as for regular buttonhole and adjust stitch width control to 1.
Drop the guide plate over the pinion gear and
sew around the buttonhole once. (STEP 1) To sew wider outer buttonhole, lift the guide
plate from the pinion gear and turn the template to wider size. Adjust stitch width
setting to 1.5. and sew around buttonhole again. (STEP 2)
STEP1

ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY

Depending upon the fabrics on which you are sewing, or your own preference in button holes, you may alter buttonhole stitch density by turning stitch density control knob.
1. For more density, turn the knob,toward
you.
2. For less density, turn the knob away from
you.
STEP 2
(D
55
iai5) fcO fdQ ic+3l
0C5
BOUND BUTTONHOLE
A template had been provided so that you
may sew perfectly sized rectangles each time
you make a bound buttonhole. Just follow the directions given below.
SETTING Stitch Width - 0 or Stitch Selector
Pressure Regulator - 1 or 2
Other settings same as regular worked
buttonhole ,
1. Space buttonholes on garment-mark length on right side of fabric with pins. Place patch of fabric over each button hole and mark ends of buttonhole with
chalk or pencil. Baste patch into place. Using template similar in size to button hole, stitch rectangle on patch and garment. Do not sew over pins. (Fig. 1)
2. Slash through patch and garment to within 1/4” of ends of rectangle. Carefully cut diagonally into corners as shown.
(Fig. 2)
-------------------
56
Fig. 2
3. Turn patch to wrong side through slash.
Press as shown. (Fig. 3, 4)
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
4. Fold patch forming lips of buttonhole.
Press and baste lips together. (Fig. 5)
5. Stitch across pleats formed by lips of
patch. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
6. After buttonhole has been pressed, baste facing of garment around buttonhole and slash opening in facing same length as buttonhole. (Mark ends of buttonhole with pins for guides). Turn under facing edges and hem to buttonhole carefully.
(Fig. 1, 8)
7. Remove all bastings and press. (Fig. 9)
FACING SIDE
I fl
I 6 4
Slash Opening in Facing
FACING SIDE
.........
Hem to Buttonhole
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 7
—'■>
Fig. 8
Complete Bound Buttonhole ^^'9- 9
57

CHOOSING BUTTONHOLE STYLE AND SIZE

Each buttonholing situation will be different so you will want to experiment with your garment, considering fabric and placement of button. Here are some basic applications:
Built-in buttonholes (described previously)
are ideal for one or two buttons used on waistband or cuff, or for "belt slots.”
Straight buttonholes are most popular for
everyday sewing — for series of buttons on dress, blouse, vest, jacket or coat.
Keyhole buttonholes are a variation of the above, with an enlarged opening at one end to allow more room for button shank. These are normally used in tailored vests, jackets, coats.
Template
Straight buttonhole
Keyhole
buttonhole
Eyelet buttonholes (another variation of
"straight”) most often are used for studs on skirts or holes for tongues of belt buckles.
Purl-edge buttonholes are made by stitching
a larger straight buttonhole on top of a narrow one — for a unique look.
Bound buttonholes — made with extra fabric "hemming” the hole — provide "professional look" to dresses, jackets, coats and for contrasting, decorative buttonholes.
Purl-edge and eyelet buttonhole
Bound buttonhole
O
45195
45196
45197
45198
45199
1'/4--1’/2"
%"-r/i6" -
V/4"-V/e"

A WORD ABOUT BUTTONHOLE WIDTH

The width indicated for each operation in this section is an approximate setting. You may
need to adjust width to suit your fabric... experiment!
58
Eyelet

DECORATIVE EMBROIDERY DESIGNS

4- 1
See next page.
-A
____
T ree
O I - ! C
. '<J u
c=> ,
^1 J /-
Zigzag needle plate
Donnino
Diamond
Crescent
Arabesque
Tulip
*1-6
u
Green Yellow
patterns patterns
You may get the look and feel of hand embroidery infinitely faster and easier by your machine.
Just choose which of the designs you want to sew alone or in combination with each other.
TIPS ON DESIGN STITCHING
1. Always make a practice design on a scrap
of the fabric you plan to use.
2. Start with a full bobbin and plenty of thread on the spool to avoid running out of thread in the middle of your design.
3. Reduce the top therad tension slightly.
4. On a very soft fabric you may want to use a tissue paper backing or organdy that can be cutaway.
iy^ iy^ Swan
59

APPLICATIONS

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE OF YELLOW PATTERNS

When sewing yellow patterns, you may need to make slight adjustment to the stitch modifier to produce perfect designs.
If the stitches are too far apart, turn the control slightly clockwise; if they are closer together, turn counter-clockwise.
Create the loveliest of custom designs-your
own personal touch. There is much you can do by adjusting stitch width or length. Below
Crescent pattern on collar Diamond on narrow hem
Tulip on pocket
Arabesque on pillow case
you see some applications and variations. You'll find many more design ideas as you become more expert.
Domino on bias tape
Crescent and diamond in combination
60
Variation of width of diamond pattern
Variation of both width and length of swan pattern
WARRANTY
FULL 30-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 30 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge,
repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the sewing machine head.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF
SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase. Sears will, free of charge,
repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the
electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, switch and speed control.
FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
For 90 days from the date of purchase. Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT THE
NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN THE UNITED
STATES. This warranty applies only while this product is in use in the United States.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Dept. 698/731A, Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co.
Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM »PART DESCRIPTION
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A.
S - 158
Printed in Japan
Part No.55079 dD
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