Kenmore 1791 User Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS

KNOWING YOUR MACHINE Page
Knowing parts and features 1 -2

GETTING READY TO SEW
Setting up your machine 3

Electronic needle contro|, stitch selector and indicator 4
Winding the bobbin

Threading your machine

Checking for correct tension
Changing needies, needleplates

Special fabnc chart

STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEWING
Using the free-arm

Straight stitching

Securing seams, top-stitching
3 ways to do basting
Zigzag sewing -- the basics

Blind hemming

Mending, darning, fagoting, bar-tacking

Interfacing

BUTTONHOLES AND FASTENERS

Using your "built-in" system

Your "attachment" system

6- 7 STRETCH AND SPECIAL STITCHES

Choosing the right buttonhole
"'Regular-worked" buttonholing

Purl-edging, bound buttonholes
installing zippers

5 Machine-sewing buttons

8 Straight stretch stitching
9 Rick-rack, stretch

10 Feather, elastIc and overcast stretch

Paris point stretch, built-in decorative stretch stitches 33

13 FINISHING AND PERSONAL TOUCHES
14 Satin stitches, machine emboridery
15 Narrow hemming

16 Edgestitchlng, even feed foot
17 Shell stitching, lettuce edging

19 Appliques and quilting

20 CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE
22 Performance check chart

Keeping your machine clean

23 Oiling your machine
24 Ordenng replacement parts

Page

25

26
27

28

29

30

3t
32

34
35

36

38
39

4O
42

44
45

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

!. Free arm

2. Free-arm cover

3. Bobbin window

4. Bobbin cover piate

5. Swing-away base release

6. Needleptate
7, Presserfoot

8. Needle bar thread guide

9. Needle clamp screw

t0. Needle bar

11. Thread guide
12, Face cover pIate

13. -Thread tension spring

BACK VIEW

!4. Top threading path
!5. Slotted take-up lever

16. Top thread tension control

17. Built-in buttonhole control

18. Bobbin winder shaft

19. Bobbin winder latch

20. Stitch indicator

21. Stitch width control

22. Stitch selector

23. Reverse stitch control

24. Basting switch

25. Needle position control

26. Cord connection

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:27. Nomenclature plate

28. Power/light switch

29. Speed range switch

30. Stitch modifier

31. Stitch length control

32. Spool pins and caps
33, Hand wheel

34. Rear thread guide
35, Bobbin tension disc

36. Rear thread guide

37. Presser foot lever

38. Presser bar
39, Presser foot lock

40. Thread cutter
41, Attachment cover release

42. Feed dogs
43, Attachment cover plate

44. Swing-away base

45. Foot pedal

46. Foot control

SOLID STATE FOOT CONTROL

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FRONTVIEW

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1

®®0

SETrlNG UP YOUR MACHINE

GETTING READY TO SEW

When you open your Kenmore carton, you'll find the basic machine,
foot control, the instruction book you now are reading, and one box

of attachments {Accessories end ButtonholerL Set your machine on a
sturdy flat surface. Be sure to wipe off any excess oil that may have

accumulated in shipping,

Step 1: The spool pins
You'tl find Spool Pins (32) packed in

the Accassones and Buttonholer
Box. Using a screwdriver, attach

them securely at rear as indicated.

Step 2: The electrlclty
Plug Foot Controt {46) into Cord

Connection {26). Then, connect cord
into any 110-120 volt wall outlet.

Important safety notes
Your machine will not operate unless

the Power/Light Switch (28) is
turned on. This same switch controls

the machine power, sewing light, the
indicator lights on the stitch selection
panel (20) and needle controls (24
and 25). If you are interrupted or stop
sewing, turn off the switch-this is an
important safety feature that
prevents accidents.

!llt_ i

ELECTRONIC

NEEDLE CONTROL

STITCH SELECTOR

Needle stops precisely in up or down position

The electronic control panel contains three switches. One switch provides an
electronically controlled basting or tacking to take the chore out of hand basting.

The other two switches electronically control the needle to stop in either the up
position for general sewing, or in the down position for intricate work.

1. This feature gives you the option of
stopping your machine with the
needle m an up position each time.

When the needle is at this high
position, there is no possibility of the

needle becoming unthreaded when
the next seam is started. The upper
left button is pushed and lighted for
this type of sewing.

2. If you wish for the needle to remain in
the tabnc when you stop (exampte is

turning a corner), then push the lower

Push before turning dial

A) To select a stitch, be sure needle is out of fabric

at its highest position. Push the stitch selector
(22) in before turning to select a stitch.

B) Then turn the dia! to left or right until the

required stitch is illuminated in red on the

indicator (20),

left switch. Indicator lights quickly
show you m what position the needle
will stop, See page. 15.

3.

The third switch labeled "'Basting"

enables you to sew very long stitches

by simply tapping the foot control-

one complete stitch will be made and

you can freely move the fabric to the

desired spot for another basting tack,

See page 16 for defin=te setting used

to accomplish this.

i iii i i i iii i i I

I

WINDING THE

BOBBIN

A) Place thread on Spool Pin
(32) and cover with a cap (32) as
shown below. To wind bobbin,

draw thread from spool through
Rear Thread Guides (34 and 36)
and the Bobbin Winder Disc (35)
as indicated below.

B) Pull end of thread through any
hole m bobbin; place bobbin on

Bobbin Winder Shaft (18) with
end of thread coming from top of
bobbin as shown above.

\

D) When bobbin is full, winding

stops automatically. Push in Hand

Wheel (33L Remove bobbin from
shaft and trim thread end.

Treat Hand Wheel as a "clutch"

It controls the needle mechanism

so that when pulled out, (disen-
gaged) the rest of the machine will

not operate while the bobbin fs
being wound,

C) Push Bobbin Winder Latch

(19) against bobbin until it clicks.
Then pull Hand Wheel (33) away
from machine to disengage clutch

(see diagram below), Hold end of

thread coming from bobbin (see

above) and step on foot control.
After several rotations of bobbin

re_ease thread.

Putt out to
disengage

Push in

to engage

THREADING THE

BOBBIN CASE

Drop-in bobbin

makes this a simple

sure operation

ii_i ,_i !i_i_ii! _

A) Make sure needle is in

highest position (this will

always be true if top left

needle position light is on).

C) Now place the full bobbin in Bobbin Case with
thread coming off in a counter-clockwise direction.

B) Remove Bobbin Cover
Plate (4) -- just lift up the
front and it slips right out.

D) Pull about tour inches of thread
through tension slot (shown by

arrow at left) toward back of

machine as illustrated above.

E) Replace cover plate, allowing
thread to emerge through opening

between Coverplate (4) and Needle-

plate (6). This completes bobbin
threading.

THREADING THE

REST OF YOUR

MACHINE

Upper threading ...

needle threading ...

now quick and easy

B) Now pull thread toward you
into Top-Threading Path (14),
down to Tension Spring (13) --
diagram above, Pull thread up into
spring. Then draw thread through
stotted take-up ]ever (t5} and
down again through either side of
lower thread guide (1t).

C) Making certain that needle is

in its highest position, thread it
from front to back.

D) Holding the needle thread with

the left hand, and basting button
pushed, gently tap the foot control.

A single stitch will be made. This
brings the bobbin thread up to the

top surface forming a loop. Reach

into this loop with a long instrument

like a screwdriver and pug loop free,

Then pull three or four inches of
both top and bobbin threads behind

the needle.

7

THREAD

TENSION:

STRAIGHT STITCHING

"Balance" is the key

to handsome,

durable straight

stitching

o

Decrease tension Increase tension

CHECKING FOR CORRECT TENSION OF
THREAD

The good looking appearance of your straight stitching is
mainly determined by the balanced tension of the top thread
and bobbin thread. The tension is well balanced when the

two threads lock m the middfe of the layers of fabric when

straight stitching.

You can achieve balanced tension by regulating the Top
Thread Tension Control (17). if the upper thread appears to

be too tight, dial left (lower numbers) to decrease tension.
If the upper thread is too loose, dial right (higher numbers}
to increase tension.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

TOP STITCH

TOO TIGHT

TOP STITCH

TOO LOOSE

STRAIGHT STITCH

JUST RIGHT

THREAD

TENSION:

ZIGZAG STITCHING

CHECKING FOR GOOD LOOKING ZIGZAG STITCHES

Always practice stitching on two layers of the fabr=c

you will be using.
Make sure that you are using the right size and type

of needle for the fabric. See chart page 11,
Choose a thread of good quality and type for your

fabric. See chart page 11.
Remember -- the wider the zigzag setting, the more

BOBBIN TENSION

The bobbin tension has been correctly set at the factory, so you do not need to
adjust it.

chance for puckering. Reduce the top tension, if
puckering occurs,

The top thread will be visible on the bottom to
varying degrees depending on the thread, fabric,
type of stitch being used and speed of sewing.

The bobbin thread should never be visible on the
top of the fabric,

CHANGING

NEEDLES AND

NEEDLEPLATES

Needle choice depends

on thread _,.,both

determined by fabric

YOUR SIZE 14 NEEDLE IS BASIC., o
o,. to most of your sewing, To replace

needle: Turn hand wheel toward you
to raise Needle Bar (10) to highest posi-
tion. Loosen Needle Clamp Screw (9)

with screwdriver. Holding flat side
away from you, insert needle as far as it

will go. Tighten clamp screw securely,
using screwdriver.

TO REPLACE THE NEEDLEPLATE INSERT

Raise needle to its highest position. Remove Bobbin
Cover Plate (4), Lift Needleptate (6) and remove by

lifting up and out (shown at far left). Insert other
needle plate; push down with both hands to lock.
Replace bobbin cover plate.

Needteplate Ufts out Replacement Jocks =n

_1 1o

I,, ,,.I

For zigzag stitching, use

silver needleptate with
wtde oval hole

ol to

!,, I

For straight and strmght
stretch sewing, silver plate

has round ho_e

CHOOSING

THE RIGHT NEEDLE

FOR THE FABRIC

Kenmore needles are

recommended for all

Kenmore machines

,,. you'll find them in your
nearest Sears store or the Sears

General Catalog. m the sewing
machine section.

If you do not have a Kenmore
needle, prease use th_s illustra-

tion to be sure your needle asthe
right size. Distance from top of

needle to needlehote should be

this exact length,

When do you change needles?
Usually after sewing 2 or 3 garments or
whenever the needle is blunted, bent

or dirty. And, of course, you'lt change
need{es to suit fabric as indicated by
this chart,

THE FABRIC IS THE KEY TO NEEDLE AND THREAD CHOICE

FABRIC

LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste, Dimity,

Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys,
Fine Lace, Organza. Crepe,

Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

i i i.i.

MEDIUMWEtGHT: Cotton.

Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,
Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,

Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

, ,, ,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,m,,,,,

MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT:

Corduroy, Denim. Wool,
Sailcloth, Woo! Flannel,

Gabardine, Velvets, Leather

HEAVYWEIGHT; Coatings,

Upholstery, Cotton Duck,
Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on ell
types of fabric

Synthetic Knits and Stretch:

Polyester Doubie Kmts, Nylon

Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,

Spandex, Cire Tricot

, N,,, • J ,J.J

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

9- BROWN

or

11-ORANGE

14-RED

1B-PURPLE Polyester Synthetm

1B-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18÷GREEN

or

Q-BLUE

Q-BLUE

with

"Q FOOT ....

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Synthetm

SilkA

Polyester Core! Cotton Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Synthetm

Siik A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Sirk A

Heavy-Duty Mercerized Cotton

Po{yester Synthetic

Silk A

Buttonhole Twist

Polyester Synthetic
50 Mercenzed Cotton

• , ,.i,, ,

RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitches

per inch

10to 12 stitches

per inch

12 stitches

per inch

8 stitches

per inch

6 stitches

per inch

10 for Reguiar

or

6 for Stretch

Stitches

10

STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEV_NG

11

YOUR FOOT

CONTROLS THE

SPEED

THE

"PRESSER FOOT"

APPLIES THE

PRESSURE

ZIGZAG_ _ STRAIGHT

FOOT _ _F_IOTOC_

Z3gzag |ool mstatled on

machine: 8 others In _:cesso_ea,

Easy to use as an automobile accelerator{
Seated comfortably? Directly in front of
your machine? Place the Foot Control

(46) where your foot reaches it easily,

Turn on the PowerlLight Switch (28).

Now simply press your foot on pedal (45)
until you reach a slow even speed. Never

try to sew too fast. The harder you push,
the faster the machine will sew (Except

when Basting Switch (24) is on}, Good
idea: For your very first use, test speed

control on a remnant!

The Presser Foot (7) exerts pres-

sure on fabnc when stitching.

To change presser feet, simply
drop Presser Foot Lock (39--ar-
row) and slip foot away from the

Presser Bar (38). For added con-
venience, the Presser Foot Lever

(371 has a double lift; raise this lever
beyond the normal up position and

ptace new foot on presser bar. To

lock toot securely, raise presser
toot lock as high as possible. That's

a!I there ts to it!

Speed range switch

Your machine has two ranges of
speed- a low range for slower,

intricate work and a high one for

faster, general work. On the low

setting the machine will not sew
faster than a certain speed, even
when the foot control is fully

depressed.

i _ O i

Presser foot pressure is vitat for
straight seams, uniform stitch

length, even handling of both layers
of fabric. To adjust pressure; use

Pressure Regulator which is situated
reside the face cover (12). Then to
increase pressure, turn the dial
clockwise (or vice versa). Just
remember.., for lightweight fabnc,

more pressure; for heavy fabr=c,
tess pressure.

THE "FEED DOGS'"

KEEP THE FABRIC

MOVING

The Feed Dogs (42) are at work reside your machine

under the Needleplate (6) creating an upward force

that moves fabric under presser foot. As the stitch is

being set into the fabric, the feed comes up to help
presser foot keep fabric taut, then to advance fabric

one stitch at a time. Feed automatically is controlled by
Stitch Length Control (31) m don't pull fabric,

Yes, you can feed the fabric by hand in some sewing
situations- for example, when freehand writing,

Just raise needle to its highest position and raise the
presser foot, Attach darning plate over needleplate

as shown at right. Reduce presser foot pressure.
Then you can control the movement of fabric by

hand,

AND THE

"SEAM GUIDES"

KEEP YOU ON

TARGET

Seam guides are printed on needleplate, at

both sides of needle, to help you line up the

fabric and keep it straight. The standard

seam width is 5/8°', So these lines are em-
phasized, easy to follow. Also the cross lines

on the Bobbin Cover Plate (4) are "cornering
guides" to help when turning a square

corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. (For details
on cornering, see page t5)

CORNERING GUIOES

12

SWING UP

FOR FREE ARM

SEWING

i

This machine easily converts from a flat-bed to a free-arm
machine for easy handling of awkward, hard-to-reach

sewing tasks. To convert to free-arm, push Release But-
ton (5), swing base up and away.

With the Base (44) swung
away, you can ship any sleeve

under the presser foot. Now
you can see seam clearly, sew

without hindrance, It's great
for patching and decorating,

too (see section on "Finishing
Touches").

13

Tricky turtlenecks are a cinch to
stitch with the free arm. (If

you're sewing sweater-type
fabric, see "Stretch" section.)
To stitch armhole of a vest (or

pants legs or a waistband),
you'll find Jt easIer if you re-

move the Base (44) completely,
Fofiow the directions be!ow.

BASE SLIPS OFF tF SPACE NEEDED
To slip the base off, swing the base away and puil it to the left.

(if in cabinet, lift machine to free-arm position,| To replace base,
insert Guide Pin into position and swing base down toward you,

until it snaps in place, it's a flat-bed machlne!

EASY TO SET FOR

ALL STRAIGHT

STITCH I NG

Stitch length is your

key decision

HERE ARE YOUR BASIC SE_INGS FOR STRAIGHT STITCHING .°.

Raise needle to highest position. Push"

and turn Stitch Selector (22) until straight
stitch setting (iI) is illuminated in red on

the indicator (20),
Set Stitch Width Control (21) at zero,

This is the setting for all straight stitching

.

(You will vary this for zigzag sewing -- so

it's detailed on page 17.)

Chances are, you'll use straight stitching most fre-
quently. This is the basic permanent stitch that holds

the garment together. You'll use the Straight Stitch

Presser Foot and Straight Stitch Needteplate, of
course. Machine settings are detailed below.

For permantent seaming, the straight stitch length
is determined by thickness of fabric. The numbers
on the Stitch Length Contro! (31) indicate
approximate stitches per inch. As a general rule, the
heawer the fabric, the longer the stitch; lighter
fabric, shorter stitches, Best stitch for medium-
weight fabrics is the t0-to-t2 setting indicated at
right below,

Set this inner dial, the Stitch Modifier (30)

at the neutral (notched) position for all
simple forward stitches.

You may use either a zig zag or straight
stitch foot BUT-- for best control of

fabric, best looking straight stitches and

best feeding of fabric use Straight Stitch
Foot and Straight Stitch Needle Plate.

(See next page for tips on reinforcing and secur-
ing permanent seams.)

@

electronic

14

15

MAKING

PERMANENT

SEAMS TRULY

PERMANENT

Backtacking..,

crossing seams o_o

turning square corners

HANDSOME

TOP-STITCHING

It's a good idea to begin and end each seam by
stitching in reverse, pressing down Reverse
Stitch Control (23). Be sure both threads are

drawn back under presser foot. Stitch backwards
about _", This iscalled backtacking; it reinforces

, electronic ,,jjj

When you have two seams crossing, sew slowly and carefully so

seam will be strong, if sewing thick fabrics, you may need to

lengthen stitch and reduce pressure on presser foot.

This is a seam you may want to show of!! tt's on the front side of
the garment, possibly at the top of a "kick pleat" or on a lapel, both

functional and decorative. Usually, it's a simple, forward stitch m
with an extra-long stitch tength, or with special thread, matching or

contrasting. {For decorative sewing, try fancy threads, double nee-

die, other ideas you will read about in later sections|)

seams, prevents unraveling.

Turning square corners? Your machine has a convenient guide (diagram, far left)
for turning corners 5/8" from fabrics edge. Stop stitching with needle tn the

fabric. This is done automatica!ly by making sure left lower needle position
button is pushed. Raise the presser foot. Turn fabric. New stitching line should

align with 5/8" seam guide on side of bobbin plate(near left diagram), Lower the
presser foot and begin stitching in new direction. (When turning square corners
or sewing pointed areas of collars, you may want to shorten the stitch length to

strengthen the corner.)

Finished the seam? The
Presser Foot Lock (39) has a

Thread Cutter (40) built in,

Hold threads on either side
of cutter and pull thread
toward you to cut.

"TEMPORARY'"

SEWING

BY MACHINE

New free

basting method for

very long stitches

Free Basting For Very Long Stitches
Stitch Se ector -- II

Stitch Width Controf-- 0

Stitch Length Control -- Any number

Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

Basting Switch -- On
Straight Stitch Foot, Darning Plate

Straight Stitch Needleplate
No pressure on Presser Foot

!%!olonger do you need to baste by hand!
Regular basting (above right) by machine is

easy -- simply use straight stitching with
longest available length setting (6 stitches per

inch). And your Kenmore has a free basting
method for yew long stitches (lower right) that

sometimes,can be used for "marking". Just set

your machine and sew as indicated below. _.

Using settings at left (be sure atl pressure is removed from presser toot) press
basting switch, Lower presser foot and tap down on foot control, (You will want

to hold ends of thread with left hand). Machine wi!l take one stitch and stop with
needle up. Move fabric freely with both hands to achieve desired stitch length.

Regular Besting

Free Method

PIN BASTING,

STAY-STITCHING

NOW SIMPLE

Yes, you can sew over pins easily (if done correctly)
because your presser feet are hinged. Pins must be in-

serted at right angles to seam line, Tip of pin should just

touch seam line. Sew over tip of pins. Pins must not
come In contact with feed dogs: Never pin on the under-

side of the fabric. Sew slowly. If in doubt about sewing

over pins, remove each p=n as you approach it.

"Stay-stitching" is a form of
temporary seaming that prevents

stretching of curved edges of gar-
ments. Usually this is on a single

layer of fabric, so reduce top thread
tension slightly to prevent pucker-

ing. Baste about '/C away from in-
tended seamline.

t6

ZIGZAG

STITCHING

m AND HOW IT

EXPANDS

YOUR SKILLS

Many plain and

fancy uses

Simple zigzag stttching enables you to
do many exciting things with your Ken-

more sewing machine. Beyond basics,

you'll use zigzag stitching to applique,

embroider and monogram. Unlike
straight stitches, zigzag stitches have a

side-to-side width as well as a stitch

length. You'll find "recipes" for many

zigzag operations on following pages.
You can create an exciting variety of zig-

zag stitches by adjusting stitch width
and length controls (see chart below).

17

Simple settings

for easy zigzag
sewing

Stitch Selector - Jl
Stitch Width Control -- Various

Stitch Length Control -- 8-t2-24
Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

Zigzag Presser Foot or Satin Stitch Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate

CHANGE

STITCH LENGTH

AND WIDTH

FOR STRENGTH

...FOR VARIETY

YOUR KEY CONTROL is the
Stitch Width Control (21),

When adjusting settings,

remember: the higher the

number the wider the zigzag
stitch, Your choice of zigzag

stitch width and length wilt
depend on the fabric and

job. The stitch length-rule is

usually the lighter the fabric,
the shorter the stitch.

Extra wide zigzag for heavy fab-

rics or those that fray- set

width at 4

Wide zigzag for double layers,
like hemming -- set at 3

Medium zigzag for most con-

struction seems -- set at 2

Narrow zigzag for light febrJcs,
barely shows -- set at 1

o

Q

_i_ Vwv,_W,_,_vVVWv_NVvv_

A most important use for basic zigzag

Fabrics that fray? Here's the

solution o,, Use zigzag

overcasting for seams that
tend to ravel, This is gener-

ally done after the garment
is finished. Also, raw or

worn edges of older gar-

ments can be overcast to

prevent further raveling.

Special EdgeStitch Settings
Stitch Selector -- il

Stitch Width -- usually at 3

Stitch Length -- usually at !0
Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

Overcast Foot
Zigzag Needleplate

18

19

BLIND HEMMING--

A BASIC STITCH

THAT ADDS A

FINISHING TOUCH

Built-in Blindstitch is a

reai time-saver

RIGHT SIDE OF
FINISHED HEM

Blind hemming is a good technique to use on garments, and
especially on curtains and drapery hems so that stitches need not

show on the front of the fabnc. Because your Kenmore has two

types of blindstitches built in, blind hemming is easier than you'd
expect. It's just a matter of folding.., give it a try!

-- Regular blind stitch for normal fabrics

._ -- Elastic blind stitch for soft, stretchable fabncs

INSIDE

DRESS

FtNISHED

EDGE

Finish raw edge of fabrtc ap-

propriately. You may want to

use seam tape on woven fab-
rics. With knits use a lace seam

tape or just use decorative
stretch stitch.

Now the right side of your garment will show
only the blind stitches! Be sure to press both

sides of the finished hem!

Working on wrong side of fab-
ric, fold hem up. Press and pin

in place. Then fold hem allow-
ance under.., leaving _" of

hem edge extending. (Blind

hemming can be simplified by
also using the special Kenmore

Edgestitcher-ptease refer to

p. 37 for details.)

EDGE

Here's how to set your machine:

Stitch Se,ector- _ or
Stitch Width Control -- I_ to 2

Stitch Length Control -- 12 to 10
Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

Blind Stitch Foot

Zigzag Needleplate

SCREW

GUIDE

Place garment under blind stitch

foot with the fold of the garment

against guide and slide it by
turning screw so that the zigzag

just catches the fold,

MENDING AND

DARNING--

BY MACHINE!

So much easier!

Takes little practice!

HOW TO REPAIR STRAIGHT OR 3-CORNERED T_-_AR

Setting your machine

Stitch Selector --ii;_
Stitch Width Control -- 4

Stitch Length Control -- Red zone
Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

Zigzag Foot
Zigzag Needleplate

Fit torn edges together closely
as possible under the needle,

starting from rear of damaged
area. Sew slowly, making sure

that stitching catches both
sides of the tear. When turn-

ing, lift needle to highest posi-
tion, back up one or two
stitches to secure corner, then

repeat above operation.

USE A HOOP FOR EASY DARNING

Setting your machine

Stitch Selector -- if
Stitch Width Control - 0

Stitch Length Control -- Various
Stitch Modifier - Neutral

Darning Plate
No Presser Foot

An embroJdeP/hoop will help you hold dam-
aged area securely. Remove presser foot.

Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops, cen-
tering hole to be darned. Draw bobbin thread up
through fabric by holding top thread and taking

one stitch at spot where you want to start darn-
ing. Lower the presser bar, then sew at slow

speed. Move fabric by hand, back and forth with

a steady rhythm, to cover darning area. Next,
turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitch-

mg across the first layer.

2O

OTHER USEFUL UTiLiTY AND BASIC ZIGZAG STITCHES

21

FAGOTING

BAR-TACKING

RBNFORCING SEAMS

REINFORCING CORNERS

ARROWHEAD TACKING

A decorative stitch that also is good for mending knits.

This is a popular decorative stitch {used in sleeves or

fronts of blouses and dresses). To attach two sepa-

t

rate pieces of fabric together, leave a little space
inbetweem To prepare the fabric:

!

!

t

I

Fold under the seam allowances on the cut edges,

and press. Baste folded edges to tissue paper with
about _,_'°space between. Stitch over the _" afiow-

ance, just catching the fabric fold on both sides with

needle. Remove bastings and paper; press.

Setting your machine

Stitch Selector --
Stitch Width Control -- 4

Stitch Length Control -- Various

(Depending on fabric)

Stitch Modifier -- Neutrai
Zigzag Foot

Zigzag Needleplate

To reinforce points of strain on any garment

A valuable stitch to strengthen corners of pockets or

straps of lingerie. Simply stitch ... turn fabric in
reverse direction ... stitch again ... four to six

times. Use a wide z_gzag stitch at the satin-stitch
length (red line) for strap reinforcements. Use a
medium-width zigzag set at a fine stitch length for

securing corners -- great for pockets!

Try "arrowhead" tacking for reinforcing small (but

visible) areas of strain. Start, from the top, with your
zigzag width setting at 4, slowly change width to 3
.., and so on.,. to reach the "point of the arrow" at

width setting 0.

Setting your machine
Stitch Selector -- i_

Stitch Width Contro{ - t to 4
Stitch Length Control -- Red

zone

Stitch Modifier -- Neutral
Zigzag Presser Foot

Zigzag Needtep_ate

iNTERFACING

To support and shape edges and details

I

You will use this for stiffening collars, cuffs, flaps
m many garment areas -- fronts, hems, iapels.

The interfacing may be any special fabric applied
to the inside of a garment to give it shape, body

and/or support. "'tnterfacings" come m light,
medium and heavy weaghts w also in "fusible"

fabrics, with adhesives applied, Generally, you
will use the machine settings shown at right, for

seams or darts in interfacing.

YOU'LL USE STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG STITCHES FOR SUPER-SEWING, TOO!

%> <'

® ® ® ® ® ®

The following stitches are built into your machine to give you the

optimum in ease of use in sewing basic stitches. Below are some of the
uses for each stitch:

t. Straight----Basting, seaming, and top stitching. (See pages 15

and 16).

2. Zigzag----Satin stitching, AppIiclue (Page 39), Overcasting and
Bar Tacking.

3. Mending---- Repair garments end sew interfacings, (Page 20).

Setting your machine
Stitch Selector -- il

Stitch Width Controt-- 2 to 4

Stitch Length Control -- 12
Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

Zigzag Presser Foot

Zigzag Needleplate

1. Straight

2, Zigzag

3. Mending

4. Box

5. Blind Hem

6. Elastic Blind

7. Fagoting

4. Box ---- Can be used for Overcasting also, or a decorative stitch
around a collar etc.

5. Blind Hem ---- Hemming of all types of fabrics, Especially helpful
when sewing large pieces of fabric such as draperies.

6, Elastic Blind Hem ---- provides a stretchy, durable hem finish to

soft, stretchable materials.

7. Fagoting ----A decorative stitch that can be used for repair of
tears that requae a backing for stability.

|_

22

BUTTONHOLES AND FASTNERS

23

USING YOUR

BUILT-IN

BUTTONHOLE

SYSTEM

It's great for

making single and

extra-long buttonholes

_p

Your Kenmore built-in system is the only one that can be

used on free-arm. It is an excellent way to make button-

holes on cuffs, waist bands, other tight places. An

important aid is the Buttonhole Guide Foot (in your

buttonhole attachment box). It has graduated markings
IYB" apart) to help you make buttonholes to exact size.

Mark buttonhole length on your garment.

Pull the guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the notch
(B) is aligned with the graduation (C), with thread to rear.

Place fabric with marked buttonholes under the foot.

The buttonhole control lever (t7) shows you the direction you w_l{ be

stitching, The control set to the left starts your buttonhole. Position
marked buttonhote so your needle pierces the beginning of the

buttonhole.

1. Switch the control to left, (if it has been already at left, set it at
right, sew several stitches and switch to left again.) Step on foot

control to form first bartack and left side of buttonhole,

2. When you reach end of left side, slide the control to the right and
complete the buttonhole.

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

Stitch length differences in forward and reverse stitches of the
buttonhole are equalized with the stitch modifier.

If the reverse stitches are too far apart, turn the modifier slightly
clockwise; if they ere too close together, turn counter-clockwise.

Setting your machine
Stitch Selector - L_

Stitch Width Control _ 1 to 1_
Stitch Length Control _ 24 to 12

(Green zone)

Stitch Modifier -- Neutral

{See below)

Buttonhole Guide Foot

Zfgzag NeedEe Plate

@

USING YOUR

SPECIAL

BUTTONHOLE

ATTACHMENT

It wilt become

your "best friend"

BUTTONHOLE
GU{DEPLATE

TEMPLATES

Another important buttonhole accessory.,

Your Buttonhole Guideplate is a Kenmore
"special" that guides the fabric for you, elimi-
nates the need to turn fabric by hand, enables

you to make a variety of bas}c and spec_a!

buttonholes.

Get acquainted with what's in your

"buttonhole box"

BUTTONHOLE

FOOT

Here you see your five templates which
give you a choice of buttonhole styles

and lengths -- illustrated on opposite
page. When you turn the template ad-

vance knob to the desired size, the
length is indicated in window on guide-

plate. Don't forget to use interfacing
when sewing buttonholes. If working

with knits, use Q NEEDLE'"°

Your Buttonhole Guideplate ,s easily in-
stalled, just behind the needieplate.

You have a square clear plastic foot to
use with your attachment.

You can dia! the style of buttonhole you
want simply by turning the Template
Advance Knob.

ADVANCE

KNOB

24

25

IT CAN BE FUN

TO TRY OUT

(and show off)

YOUR NEW

BUTTONHOLE

SKILLS

Start with the ones

you like in the

chart below

ROUND END

STRAIGHT

BUTTONHOLE

Template

Sizes

Template

Sizes

43141

_/_,'._slld'

43142

1¼".1½"

Choosing buttonhole style and size _
Each buttonholing situation will be differ-

ent so you will want to experiment with
your garment, considering fabric and

placement of button, Here are some basic

applications:

Built-in buttonholes (described previously)
are ideal for one or two buttons used on waist-

band or cuff, or for "belt slots."

Straight buttonholes (lower left) are most

popular for everyday sewing -- for series of
buttons on dress, blouse, vest, jacket or coat.

BUTTONHOLE AND

i

KEYHOLE _ PURL-EDGE

43143 43144 43145

"-! _f_6" - '_'hd'-I 't_ " - W_d'- I thd'-

1¼ "-t _" Eyelet _=/_"-%"

EYELET

Keyhole buttonholes are a variation of the

above, with an enlarged opening at one end to
allow more room for button shank. These are

normally used in tailored vests, jackets, coats.
Eyelet buttonholes (another variation of

"straight") most often are used for studs on
skirts or holes for tongues of belt buckles.

Purl-edge buttonholes are made by stitching a
larger straight buttonhole on top of a narrow

one -- for a unique look.
Bound buttonholes -- made with extra fabric
"hemming" the hole -- provide "professional

look" to dresses, lackets, coats and for con-

trasting, decorative buttonholes.

BOUND
BUTTONHOLE

I

f

I

I

t

I

t

"'REGULAR-

WORKED"

BUTTONHOLING

An art by our

.grandmothers..,

now easy to do

by machine

Settings for round-end, keyhole, eyelet ..,

Stitch Selector - il
Stitch Width Control'-- i! to 1_

Stitch Length Control -- 0
Stitch Modifier - Neutral
Buttonhole Foot

Zigzag Needieplate
Darntng Plate

First, place darning plate over zigzag needleplate; then,

select correct template for type buttonhole you want. Insert
template into slot of guldepIate.. Turn template knob to

desired size ... ust dial!

Now press Retease Button (4t} to remove
Attachment Coverplate (43). This will
expose the pinion gear tn base, as
indicated at upper right. (When button-
holing is completed, be sure to replace
attachment coverplate!)

Slip guideplate onto machine so it fits in
place over pm_on gear. Be sure guide pin

ts inserted in slot.
Pul! guide piate all the way forward so

that guide pin rs at "'S" and pimon gear is
in the center of arc hole of template.

Draw bobbin thread up through guide-
plate by turning hand wheel, Place fabric
between presser toot and guideplate.

Align marked buttonhole with cut-out of

toot. Line up edge of fabric w_th markings

on guideplate. If you wish all buttonholes
to be 3/4" from edge of garment, for

example, llne up fabric with 3/4" marking
each time you start a buttonhole.

Now you're ready to stitch the shape you've selected
straight, keyhole or eyelet. Your template will guide you,

RELEASE

BUTTON

PINION GEAR

TEMPLATE

HOLDER

TEMPLATE

ADVANCE KNOB

GUIDE

GUIDE SLOT

26

27

PURL-EDGING

FOR THAT

PROFESSIONAL

TOUCH

TIPS ON MAKING

BOUND

BUTTONHOLES

} ................. !

You can make a purl-edge buttonhole by sewing

a wide buttonhole over a narrow stitched but-

tonhole. Machine settings are the same as for a

round-end buttonhole. Simply choose the cor-
rect size purl-edge template for your button. But

be sure to adjust stitch width control to 1.

Sew around the buttonhole once, Then remove
guJdeplate and turn template to the wider size

purl-edge. Adjust stitch width to 1½ and sew
around buttonhole again.

Yes, these are tricky -- but worth it for fine gar-
ments._ There are a number of ways, most re-

quiring sewing exact-size rectangles. There are
several-size templates included with your Ken-
more attachments. Use them as for other but-

't

I

i

1
i

tonholes but set machine as indicated at right.
For nearest, easiest bound buttonholes, use an

iron-on interfacing on underside of fabric. This
is essential with stretch fabrics or those that

tend to fray easily,

Bound buttonhole settings:

Stitch Selector -- il
Stitch Width Control -- Zero

Stitch Length Control -- 0
Stitch Modifier --Neutrai

Buttonhole Foot

Zigzag Needleplate

Darning Plate

ZIPPERS THAT ARE

SMOOTH-WORKING,

GOOD LOOKING

Home-sewn zippers can look as nice as those on ex-

pensive ready-mades. We recommend you follow di-
rections given on zipper package. There are two basic

types: conventional, and invisible. Your Zipper Foot

will assist you with any of these installations. Use
these simple settings:

For conventional zippers ... Your zipper
foot is adjustable for use on right or left side

i
i

I

i

i

I

of needle. Adjust foot so needle clears side
notch on foot. Then proceed according to
zipper manufacturer's instructions.

Invisible zippers are applied to an open

seam, to seam allowances only; there is no
stitching visible on outside of garment. Ad-

just zipper foot so needle is sewrng through
center hole of foot and one groove of foot is
riding on teeth of zipper, After zipper inser-

tion, finish by shifting foot to side position
and sewing through side notch.

REGULAR

ZIPPER

!

CORDING IS SIMPLE WITH SAME "ZIPPER" SETTINGS

Your zipper foot also makes it easy to add

"cording" to garments as well as slip cov-
ers, toss pillows, bedspreads, decorative

pieces. Cut fabric on bias and wrap around
cord. Pin fabric in place so seam edges are ""_'_-

even. With zipper foot to left of needle,
stitch close to cord.

28

29

MACHINE-SEWED
BUTTONS? YES--

WiTH THiS
KENMORE!

Clear plastic foot

makes job easy!

Your settings: Stitch Selector ii

Set Length Control at any number
Width Contro! -- adjust to button size

Use Zigzag Needleptate and Darning Plate
Use Clear Plastic Satin Stitch Foot

Scotchtape button on fabric to hold
in place while needle stitches-from

side to side. Stitch width must equal
space between holes in button, You

will need to experiment with each
style button, For the same series of

buttons, settings remain the same,
Center left hole of button between straight seamline and left edge of

presser foot slot. Lower foot to hold button securely,

Turn hand wheel until needle point is just above button. Adiust stitch
width control so needle will enter right hole of button. Turn hand wheel

again so needle enters second hole. Readjust stitch width if necessary.

Stitch 6-8 times,

Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these

threads to reverse side of garment and tie.

PUT.A SHANK ON YOUR BUTTONS.,.

Recommended for heavy, bulky tabrics,

buttons sewn w_th a shank add extra
strength. Set machine as indicated above.
Tape a pin to button so it fits in groove

in presser foot. Sew over the pro, adding a
few more stitches than usual Remove

from machine, wrap excess thread
around shank, and tie.

LEFTOFHOLE

BU_ON

PRESSER

t/ FOOT

STRAIGHT

BUTTON

STRAIGHT STRETCH

STITCHING

For seams

that need to stretch

with the fabric

STRETCH AND SPECIAL STITCHES

You'll use this basic stitch often- for garment construction
or anywhere else you would use a straight stitch for seaming --

p|ain, pressed-open or double-stitched, tf you want a good
looking top stitch on knits, use straight stretch ... particularly for

strength when making sportswear. And when you do curved
seams on children's shorts or slacks, for example, the straight

stretch stitch really adds life!

SETTING YOUR MACHINE FOR STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING

F-_

, IRI o

\

STITCH WIDTH
CONTROL - 0

DIAL YOUR STITCH

FOR SETTING ON

INDICATOR (20)

USE STRAIGHT STITCH PRESSER FOOT
AND STRAIGHT STITCH NEEDLEPLATE

electronic

STITCH LENGTH
CONTROL -- 6 TO 24

STITCH MODIFIER

--NEUTRAL
(NOTCHED)

POSITION
(SEE NEXT PAGE)

3O

31

THE STRETCH
STITCHES YOU USE
MOST ARE BUiLT-IN

Rick-Rack Stretch Smocking Stretch

RI_CK-RACK STR ETCH

Used most often for

top-stitching

So many ways to sew today's knits! You have a Your basic settings are illustrated immediately
wide variety ofzigzag stitches_ simpiy set Stitch below. The only changes you need consider are

Selector (22) as indicated in each "recipe"_ All variations in stitch width w as you become ex-

other machine settings are the same for each of pert, you may wish stitches to show, either short-

the stitches. With all these, use thezigzag presser er or longer. Don't forget, the Stitch Modifier |30),
foot or Q FOOTTM and appropriate needleplate, lower right, is inside Stitch Length Control (3t).

ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH
BALANCE

Stitch modifier should be in neutral

(notched) position for most materials.
Depending upon the type of fabric

used, you may need to adjust this

control to match forward stitches of

stretch sewing with reverse motion
stitches. If the stitches are too open,

turn the control slightly clockwise; if

the stitches overlap, turn the control
counter-clockwise.

WIDTH -- USUALLY AT 4

0

DIAL YOUR STITCH

FOR SE]-FING ON

INDICATOR (20)

LENGTH

SETAT24-6

Stitch Selector _{

Rick-rack stretch stitches are useful also on lapped or
abutted seams where you lap one edge of a seam over

another with seamlines meeting in the center.

MODIFIER -- SET AT

NEUTRAL INOTCHED)

POSITION (SEE AT LEFT)

ii

FEATHER

STRETCH

F

Stitch Selector --

This is a good stitch to use with laces, on lingerie, bra

and girdles; and to apply bias tape. It's great when
quilting.

ELASTIC

STRETCH

You'll love this

for skirt-bands

and lingerie

OVERCAST

STRETCH

A "must" for

making stretch

sportswear

Stitch Selector _

Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in gar-
ments. Simply stitch elastic into place, making sure
it is evenly spaced. To do this, mark the correct

length piece into quarters, then match these mark-
ings with center front and side seams.

Stitch Selector-

This is the same type stitch used by the garment

industry in making sportswear -- it forms and
finishes the seam in one operation (for seams of

¼" to %'). It's very effective for use in relSairing raw

or worn edges of older garments.

32

33

PARIS POINT

STRETCH

SOME FAVORITE

STITCHES

CAN BE

DECORATIVE

Smocking stitch effect:

strictly for charm

Stitch Selector - G
Stitch Width Control -- 2 to 3

Stitch Length Control -- 24 to 12
Excellent for hemstitching table and bed covers with a

•eiegant touch. Picot-like stitch can also be made on sheer
materials, Sew along the raw edge of fabric and trim close to
the outside of the stitching.

Of course, you can "create" with basics ..,
Rick-Rack,-Feather, and Elastic Stretch stitches
previously described can be used to decorate

garments as well as to construct them. Try them
all -- just dial your choice and use your imagina-

tion!

Here's another beautiful, built-in
stretch stitch -- the Smocking

Stretch creates a design that is a
series of small diamonds.

HOW TO GET THE HAND-SMOCKED EFFECT BY MACHINE

Setting your machine:

Stitch Selector --
Stitch Width Control -- 3 to 4

Stitch Length Control -- 6
Stitch Modifier - Neutral

(See page 3t )

Q FOOT and Q NEEDLE"

Zigzag Needleplata

Be sure to use a clear plastic foot, so

you can see stitches as you sew.

First, the smocked area: The stitching

is done before the piece is sewn into

the garment. Make a straight line of
gathers across the fabric being

smocked, Directly under the line of
gathering, stitch over the gathers. Con-
tinue rows of stitches ¼" apart with

gathers inbetween.

SATIN STITCHES

AS THE

PROFESSIONALS

USE THEM

FINISHING AND PERSONAL TOUCHES

Closely-spaced zigzag stitches are called
satin stitches. They add a lovely

finishing touch to garments and {inens--
whether in simple sewing or super

decorations with any of your patterns or
embroidery designing. Use a Zigzag

Needleptate and the special Satin Stitch
Foot. This foot is "grooved" to permit

dense stitching to pass under it easily,

Here are your basic settings:

O

e

Important tips on satin stitching: It's a good idea to

loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The

wider the stitch, the looser the tension needed,

MACHINE

EMBROIDERY?

CUSTOM DESIGNS

BY MACHINE?

DOMINO DIAMOND

DIAL YOUR STITCH

FOR SE'T[tNG ON

INDICATOR (20)

You may get the look and feel of hand
embroidery infinitely faster and easier by

machine thanks to your Kenmore.

Just choose which of the designs shown
below you want to sew alone or in

combination with each other.

PYRAMID CRESCENT

SCALLOP ARABESQUE"

STITCH

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL (inner dial) --

{outer dial) -- Red zone Neutral

*When sewing these decorative designs,

you may need to make slight adjustments
to the stitch modifier (30) to produce

perfect designs,
To lengthen the reverse motion stitches of

these pattens turn modifier slightly clock-

wise.., to shorten, turn counter-clock-

wise,

MODIFIER

l

TREE" TULIP* SWAN"

34

HERE ARE SOME

"'SINGLE-NEEDLE"

DESIGNS YOU'LL

LIKE TO USE

Now we demonstrate variations and applications

35

you'll want to master as you become more expert.

For examp(e ...

Only your "fancy"

is needed for

this fanciwork

We've addedan embroidered touch to a biastape at

rightand perked-upthe collerbelow with a crescent

stitch, But you'llfind the right placein.much of your
sewing for these nice"extras",

Remember these single-needle settings

DIAL YOUR STITCH

FOR SETTING ON

INDICATOR (20} STITCH LENGTH

CONTROL -- RED ZONE

FOR SIMPLE (FORWARD)

DESIGNS OR

6 FOR SUPER (REVERSE)

DESIGNS

i_ Ill

YOUR WIDTH

CONTROL SHOULD

BEAT t TO4

STITCH MODIFIER --

NEUTRAL (NOTCHED)
POSITION

(SEE PAGE 34)

_1 USE SATIN STITCH FOOT AND

ZIGZAG NEEDLEPLATE (SHOWN AT LEFT)

iMPROVE YOUR

SKILLS WiTH

THESE KENMORE

SPECIAL AIDS

Thumb screw

able

Want to do "narrow-hemming"? Your Kenmore special at-
tachments (found in your Accessories & Buttonhoier box) will

help you develop these talents. You'll want to meet m and try

all these aids. But first, we suggest, you get acquainted with

your "adjustable holder" (at left).

USING YOUR ADJUSTABLE HOLDER

Your regular presser foot is replaced

Adjustable holdar

fitted on needIebar

with the adjustable holder for the fol-

lowing operations. You'll need to ad-
just the attachment for correct stitching

position.

SUGGESTIONS FOR USING THESE

ATTACHMENTS

When replacing the regular presser foot with one of these new sewing

aids, be sure that the presser bar is up and the needle is at its highest
position. After you have threaded the machine correctly, turn the hand
wheel to bring up the bobbin thread. Draw both threads under the

sewing aid and to the back of the machine to avoid tangles, It's a good
idea to test stitching first on a scrap of fabric being used.

NOW NARROW

HEMMING

IS EASY

SCROLL

FORM AND STITCH IN ONE OPERATION

Attach the Narrow Hemmer to the adjustable holder. Set
your machine for any stitch you want to use.

Make sure that edge of the fabric is cut straight. Turn a tiny double

hem (% tnch) along edge for about two inches. Place end of this

hem under Narrow Hemmer. Hold thread taut while stitching
along inside edge of hem. Feed fabric gradually into "scroll" m
hemmer, guiding edge of fabric as shown.

36

YOUR KENMORE

EDGESTITCHER

MAKES MANY

TRIMS POSSIBLE

A MOST USEFUL, VERSATILE ACCESSORY

37

This one attachment helps you join fabric edges.., insert lace,..

do seam piping simplifies blind hemming as well as "French"

1

2

seams. Slots numbered 1 to 5 serve as sewing guides,

EVEN FEED

FOOT

moves top and

bottom material
together evenly

Presserfoot

screw

Presserbar

clamp

3

Presser foot

Set your machine for the stitch you want to use, Then follow these slot

5

numbers for the task at hand:
Slot I will guide fabric to be joined to lace. All you have to do is place

the lace in s|0t 2.

Slot 4 will guide piping being joined to fabric edges. Place the fabric in
slots 2 or 3.

Slot 5 may be used as a guide when sewing French seams which are

stitched twice, once on right side and once on other side, This is the
classic seam for sheers.

Use slots I and 3 to guide fabric with ease during blind hemming. (For
details on this technique, see p. 19.)

The even feed foot enables you to sew hard-to-sew fabrics without

sliding nor slipping and with perfect matching, Use it for sewing

leather, ultra suede TM , shiny fabrics {vinyls, patents and satins), bonded

fabrics, pile fabrics and matching stripes, plaids and patterns, It is not

recommended for use when stretch stitching,

To attach the even feed foot;

1. Rinse needle to its highest position.

2. Raise presser bar to its highest position and guide the even feed foot
into position from rear of machine.

3. Attach presser bar clamp to presser bar and lift presser foot lock as
high as it will go to hold the foot securely.

4. Attach screw (A) provided with the foot to needle clamp through

fork arm and tighten it.

Note: Attach the foot in exact order of steps as written.

PROBLEM FABRICS? TOO SOFT TO FINISH? HERE ARE HAPPY ENDINGS ...

The extreme stretchiness of some soft fa brics (like jerseys

and lingerie tricot) can make hemming troublesome, Here
are two good answers with your Kenmore.

HANDSOME

SHELL

STITCHING

LOVELY

LETTUCE

EDGING

This shell-stitched edge is a popular finish for lingerie
and n_ghtgowns. To achieve this multiple scalloped
effect, set your machine as shown below. When sewing,

allow needle to clear }ust the left edge of the fabnc when

it z_gzags.

Stitch Setector --
Stitch Width Control -- 4

Stitch Length Control -- 12
Stitch Modifier -- Neutral
Q FOOT" Q NEEDLE"

Zigzag Needfeplate

Lettuce edges take advantage of the fabric's stretchi-
hess. To get the frilly effect, you stretch the fabric

while stitching the garment edge. The more the fabric

is stretched, the smaller and more numerous the r_p-
pies, in this process, some fabrics tend to develop
runs, so test a swatch first. Machine settings are the

same as above except:

Stitch Selector-- it

Stitch Width -- 2 ....

Stitch Lengtl_ _-- ! 2

The exclusive Kenmore Q FOOTTM and.Q NEEDLETM are

invaluable he|pers for stitching these stretch fabrics.

38

APPLIQUES,

OTHER ADD-ONS m

EASIER WITH

YOUR KENMORE

Neat ways to

personalize

your sewing

39

Appliques, small pieces of fabric applied as
decorative trim- now are more popular than
ever in adding interest to children's wear,

sportswear, even dressy clothing. Select an
applique to compliment the main fabric and baste

it in-place, Using the satin stitch or paris point
stretch stitch isee page 33), sew around raw edge

of applique completely covering edge.

Try these ideas: Use a contrasting color

thread or a decorative pattern for visible

stitching. Use a delicate edge stitch, same
color thread, for appliques that look

practically "woven in",

A GUIDE FOR

QUILTING

THE KENMORE

WAY

Great for

orderly rows,

uniformly spaced

QUILTING

GUIDE

This attachment comes in handy whenever you
want several rows of stitches an equal distance
apart--for garment trim as well as quilts, it consists

of a curved prong attached to a long bar on a holder,
The prong Jsshifted back and forth on the holder to

establish the distance between rows of stitches.

Attach the quilting guide to presser foot as shown. Select
the desired stitch --straight or an embroidery type -- and

set the machine accordingly. After completing the first
row of stitching, place the guiding prong on this stitched

llne. The second row then can be placed at the desired

distance from first row, Continue working in this way for
as many rows as you want.

CARING FORYOUR MACHINE

PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS? THIS CHART MAY SOLVE THEM

Your Kenmore sewing machine =sa precision instrument, designed to give you

many years of troublefree sewing -- with minimum maintenance. But it is a
complex machine, And you may sometimes have difficulty in mastering a given

stitch, . adjusting for an unusual fabric., , learning when to replace a needle or
use a different thread. So if trouble occurs, don't panic. •

First, check to see if machine is plugged into the electrical outlet, (Remember, for

safety's sake, you always should unplug your machine when not in use!)

Second, check the list below. Often you'll be able to solve the problem yourself
without a service call.

Then if you still need help, it's available.., call your nearest Sears Serv,ce Center.

SUSPECTED PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE POSSIBLY EASY CORRECTION

IRREGULAR
STITCHES

BREAKING

"NEEDLE

i i

BUNCHING OF

THREAD

incorrect size needle,

Improper threading,
Loose upper thread tension.

Pulling fabric,
Light pressure on presser foot,
Loose presser foot.

Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at needleplate opening.

Pulling fabric.
Incorrect size needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.

Upper and lower threads not drawn
back under presser foot before

starting seam.

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Rethread machine; check tension spring threading.

Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently,

Increase pressure on presser foot.
Reset presser foot.

Rewind bobbin,

Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely,

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Reset needle.
Reset presser foot.

When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads
under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold

until a few stitches are formed. 40

SUSPECTED PROBLEM

PROBABLE CAUSE

POSSIBLY EASY CORRECTION

41

Incorrect thread tension{s),
Light pressure on presser foot.

Using two different sizes or kinds

PUCKERING

SKIPPING
STITCHES

BREAKING UPPER

THREAD

BREAKING BOBBIN
THREAD

FABRIC NOT
MOVING

of thread.
Sent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot_.

Fabric too sheer or too soft.

Incorrect size needle.

Certain knits and synthetics.

Bent or blunt, needle.
incorrect setting of needle,

Tight upper thread tension,

Light pressure on presser foot.

Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper threading.

Tight upper thread tension.

Incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye m needle.

Nicks or burrs at need|epiate opening,

Improper bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.

!

J

Darning plate attached.
Light pressure on presser foot.

Thread knotted under fabric,

t

MACHINE JAMMING, Thread caught in shuttle. Disassemble and ctean shuttle,
KNOCKING NOISE Bent needle plate. Replace needle plate,

i

Damaged needle. Replace needle.

Reset thread tension(s),
Increase pressure on presser foot.

Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same
size and kind.

Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay of tissue paper.

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Use "Q NEEDLE .... and "Q FOOT "T"

insert new needle.
Reset needle.

Loosen upper thread tension.
Increase pressure on presser foot.

Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.

Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric,

Insert new needle.
Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely.

Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

Remove darning ptate.
Increase pressure on presser foot.
Place both threads back under presser foot before

beginning to stitch.

MACHINE DOES

NOT SEW

Hand wheel not returned to
stitching position,

Power cord not connected,
Power!light switch off.

Push m clutch,

Check plug.

Push to on position.

CLEANING YOUR

MACHgNE AND

KEEPING IT CLEAN

A clean machine

sews better...

runs smoother...

lasts longer

It takes a little time -- and very little effort -- to keep the

essential parts of your sewing machine in finest working order.

For the easy maintenance described on these pages, you may

want to buy the special sewing machine oil and brush available
in the sewing machine department of your nearest Sears

storeo

The small brush can be used to clean in and around the feed
dogs and shuttle area to remove accumulated dust and lint.

This is specially important when you're working with knits and

fabrics with nap that tend to shed more than woven fabrics.

Cleaning shuttle area. On rare occasions, you may want to clean the shuttle area.

Just follow these s_mp_e steps ,..

FEED DOGS

Lift out bobbin case from front,

SCREW FREE-ARM COVER

Turn hand wheel toward you until
needle bar (8} is at its highest position
and pointed hook at 12 o'clock (under
feed dogs). Pull out two locking wings

in direction of arrows.
NOTICE: Two black screws should not

be removed.

Step3

Tilt machine head back and remove
free-arm cover by loosenIngscrew, 42

43

HOLE

A LIGHT JOB

TO KEEP YOUR

SEWING BRIGHT

Then clean shuttle area with small brush
and discharge lint from hole on the left

wal!, Put a drop of oi! to the points

indicated by arrows, Don't over-oif.!
(Reminder: don't use household oil,,,

use sewing machine oil,)

SHUTTLE

Step 4

When replacing a burned out bulb, only use a new
sewin9 machine light bulb (see part #6797 on

page 46), The light is located inside the Face Cover
Plate (12) of your machine. Turn the light switch off

and swing open the cover plate, Push up the bulb
slightly and turn clockwise. Insert new bulb, push

up and turn counterclockwise.

LOCKING WINGS Step 5

Replacing bobbin case and free*arm
cover. Make sure needle bar and

pointed hook are at the same pisition as
step t, insert bobbin case into shuttle

and push two tocking wings outward
untit they snap into place, Replace
free-arm cover in position and secure it

w=th screw, See step 3,

REMOVING MACHINE

When you need to remove your'mach|ne from its

cabinet or case for repa=r, loosen the screws hold-
ing your machine tn cabinet or case. Then lift

machine ouL

OILING YOUR

MACHINE

KEEPS IT

SMOOTH

RUNNING

Be sure to

use special

sewing machine oil

i

To prevent friction and wear, oil your machine regularly. If you use
the machine all day every day, oil it weekly. If it is used moderate!y,

oil it every two months. If the machine is not used for some time, oil
it the day before you start to sew to be sure you don't soil fabrics.

Always remove dust and lint before oiling. Just a drop or two of oil

at each point is sufficient. Remove any excess oil from thread-

handling parts with a lintless fabric, like cheesec!oth.

OILING UNDER

TOP COVER PLATE

Lift Top Cover Plate by loosening two top
screws, as shown at left, Then oil points

indicated by arrows in top of machine
head.

OILING

UNDERSIDE

%rT e i_

o _lt_i o

Oiling in face cover plate. Swing hinged
Face Cover Plate !12) open and oil points
indicated by arrows in illustration at left.

It's a good idea to polish the take-up lever,
thread guides and area around the needle

and presser foot, on a regular bas_s.

If machine is in cabinet, remove bottom t-
screws first. Tilt machine head back and
remove bottom coverby removingscrews

A, B, C and D shown in illustrationat left.

Then just oil pointsindicated on underside

of unit as shown.

L

44

REPLACING (OR ADDING)

iMPORTANT A3-[ACHNIENTS

All the attachments and accessories

shown on these two pages may be ob-
tained from any Sears, Roebuck and

Co. or Simpson-Sears Limited store or
service center,

NEEDLES- additional needles:

Size Needle Part No,

Packet of needles _ "No. 9 6550

with your machine _No._11 655t

includes a variety of sizes, No, 14 6552

Replacement needles No, t6 6553

come in packages No, 18 6554

of one size only. "Q NEEDLE''T= 6746

PRESSER FEET %-:.., .&_..-,.

__ You may want to order these

Double Needle 6749

45

When ordering parts, please refer to
this illust]'ated list and give the fol*

lowing information to Sears:

1. MACHINE MODEL NUMBER

2. PART NUMBER

3. ITEM NAME

4. ITEM DESCRIPTION

(Part No. 44985) Stitch (#43776) (#6858)

ACCESSORIES

BUTTONHOLE

ButtonhoIe Guideptate

(Part 55511)

Buttonhole Templates

No. 1 Par[ 45195
No. 2 Part 45196

No, 3 Part 45197
No. 4 Part 45198

No. 5 Part 45199

Blind Stitch Foot

(#6886)

Buttonhole Opener

Overcasting

|#35094|

Buttonho|e Foot

(# 4t040)

(#6830)

Even Feed

Foot(#6888)

OTHER VITAL

iTEMS

Adjustable Holder

art 29308) _bbin Box with

Plastic Bobbins

I# 6868)

10 Metal(#6862)Bobbins

mo, ..r.....°o,

__ I# 55501)

Small Screw Driver

I# 55500)

*Oil & Lint Brush Magnetized

|#6889) Extra Small Screw Narrow Hemmer

"Not furnished with machine Drwer {# 55499) 4#29396)

Zigzag Needleplate

!# 45747)

Spool Pin

Cap 1# 55503)

Edge Stitcher

(#29306)

Straight Stitch

Needleplate t# 45748)

Bobbin Winder

Rubber Ring 1#1939)

Bobbin Winder Tension

Disc (#39619)

Quilting Guide

1#35105)

Darning Plate

(#43166)

Motor Belt

450231

Needle Threader

(#43780)

46

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ul
o_
c_

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r . !.

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.... .. ...... ..

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