Kenmore 1791 User Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS

KNOWING YOUR MACHINE Page Knowing parts and features 1 -2

GETTING READY TO SEW Setting up your machine 3

Electronic needle contro|, stitch selector and indicator 4 Winding the bobbin

Threading your machine

Checking for correct tension Changing needies, needleplates

Special fabnc chart

STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEWING Using the free-arm

Straight stitching

Securing seams, top-stitching 3 ways to do basting Zigzag sewing -- the basics

Blind hemming

Mending, darning, fagoting, bar-tacking

Interfacing

BUTTONHOLES AND FASTENERS

Using your "built-in" system

Your "attachment" system

6- 7 STRETCH AND SPECIAL STITCHES

Choosing the right buttonhole "'Regular-worked" buttonholing

Purl-edging, bound buttonholes installing zippers

5 Machine-sewing buttons

8 Straight stretch stitching 9 Rick-rack, stretch

10 Feather, elastIc and overcast stretch

Paris point stretch, built-in decorative stretch stitches 33

13 FINISHING AND PERSONAL TOUCHES 14 Satin stitches, machine emboridery 15 Narrow hemming

16 Edgestitchlng, even feed foot 17 Shell stitching, lettuce edging

19 Appliques and quilting

20 CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE 22 Performance check chart

Keeping your machine clean

23 Oiling your machine 24 Ordenng replacement parts

Page

26 27

3t 32

34 35

38 39

4O 42

44 45

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

!. Free arm

2. Free-arm cover

3. Bobbin window

4. Bobbin cover piate

5. Swing-away base release

6. Needleptate 7, Presserfoot

8. Needle bar thread guide

9. Needle clamp screw

t0. Needle bar

11. Thread guide 12, Face cover pIate

13. -Thread tension spring

BACK VIEW

!4. Top threading path !5. Slotted take-up lever

16. Top thread tension control

17. Built-in buttonhole control

18. Bobbin winder shaft

19. Bobbin winder latch

20. Stitch indicator

21. Stitch width control

22. Stitch selector

23. Reverse stitch control

24. Basting switch

25. Needle position control

26. Cord connection

:27. Nomenclature plate

28. Power/light switch

29. Speed range switch

30. Stitch modifier

31. Stitch length control

32. Spool pins and caps 33, Hand wheel

34. Rear thread guide 35, Bobbin tension disc

36. Rear thread guide

37. Presser foot lever

38. Presser bar 39, Presser foot lock

40. Thread cutter 41, Attachment cover release

42. Feed dogs 43, Attachment cover plate

44. Swing-away base

45. Foot pedal

46. Foot control

SOLID STATE FOOT CONTROL

FRONTVIEW

®®0

SETrlNG UP YOUR MACHINE

GETTING READY TO SEW

When you open your Kenmore carton, you'll find the basic machine, foot control, the instruction book you now are reading, and one box

of attachments {Accessories end ButtonholerL Set your machine on a sturdy flat surface. Be sure to wipe off any excess oil that may have

accumulated in shipping,

Step 1: The spool pins You'tl find Spool Pins (32) packed in

the Accassones and Buttonholer Box. Using a screwdriver, attach

them securely at rear as indicated.

Step 2: The electrlclty Plug Foot Controt {46) into Cord

Connection {26). Then, connect cord into any 110-120 volt wall outlet.

Important safety notes Your machine will not operate unless

the Power/Light Switch (28) is turned on. This same switch controls

the machine power, sewing light, the indicator lights on the stitch selection panel (20) and needle controls (24 and 25). If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the switch-this is an important safety feature that prevents accidents.

!llt_ i

ELECTRONIC

NEEDLE CONTROL

STITCH SELECTOR

Needle stops precisely in up or down position

The electronic control panel contains three switches. One switch provides an electronically controlled basting or tacking to take the chore out of hand basting.

The other two switches electronically control the needle to stop in either the up position for general sewing, or in the down position for intricate work.

1. This feature gives you the option of stopping your machine with the needle m an up position each time.

When the needle is at this high position, there is no possibility of the

needle becoming unthreaded when the next seam is started. The upper left button is pushed and lighted for this type of sewing.

2. If you wish for the needle to remain in the tabnc when you stop (exampte is

turning a corner), then push the lower

Push before turning dial

A) To select a stitch, be sure needle is out of fabric

at its highest position. Push the stitch selector (22) in before turning to select a stitch.

B) Then turn the dia! to left or right until the

required stitch is illuminated in red on the

indicator (20),

left switch. Indicator lights quickly show you m what position the needle will stop, See page. 15.

The third switch labeled "'Basting"

enables you to sew very long stitches

by simply tapping the foot control-

one complete stitch will be made and

you can freely move the fabric to the

desired spot for another basting tack,

See page 16 for defin=te setting used

to accomplish this.

i iii i i i iii i i I

WINDING THE

BOBBIN

A) Place thread on Spool Pin (32) and cover with a cap (32) as shown below. To wind bobbin,

draw thread from spool through Rear Thread Guides (34 and 36) and the Bobbin Winder Disc (35) as indicated below.

B) Pull end of thread through any hole m bobbin; place bobbin on

Bobbin Winder Shaft (18) with end of thread coming from top of bobbin as shown above.

D) When bobbin is full, winding

stops automatically. Push in Hand

Wheel (33L Remove bobbin from shaft and trim thread end.

Treat Hand Wheel as a "clutch"

It controls the needle mechanism

so that when pulled out, (disen- gaged) the rest of the machine will

not operate while the bobbin fs being wound,

C) Push Bobbin Winder Latch

(19) against bobbin until it clicks. Then pull Hand Wheel (33) away from machine to disengage clutch

(see diagram below), Hold end of

thread coming from bobbin (see

above) and step on foot control. After several rotations of bobbin

re_ease thread.

Putt out to disengage

Push in

to engage

THREADING THE

BOBBIN CASE

Drop-in bobbin

makes this a simple

sure operation

ii_i ,_i !i_i_ii! _

A) Make sure needle is in

highest position (this will

always be true if top left

needle position light is on).

C) Now place the full bobbin in Bobbin Case with thread coming off in a counter-clockwise direction.

B) Remove Bobbin Cover Plate (4) -- just lift up the front and it slips right out.

D) Pull about tour inches of thread through tension slot (shown by

arrow at left) toward back of

machine as illustrated above.

E) Replace cover plate, allowing thread to emerge through opening

between Coverplate (4) and Needle-

plate (6). This completes bobbin threading.

THREADING THE

REST OF YOUR

MACHINE

Upper threading ...

needle threading ...

now quick and easy

B) Now pull thread toward you into Top-Threading Path (14), down to Tension Spring (13) -- diagram above, Pull thread up into spring. Then draw thread through stotted take-up ]ever (t5} and down again through either side of lower thread guide (1t).

C) Making certain that needle is

in its highest position, thread it from front to back.

D) Holding the needle thread with

the left hand, and basting button pushed, gently tap the foot control.

A single stitch will be made. This brings the bobbin thread up to the

top surface forming a loop. Reach

into this loop with a long instrument

like a screwdriver and pug loop free,

Then pull three or four inches of both top and bobbin threads behind

the needle.

THREAD

TENSION:

STRAIGHT STITCHING

"Balance" is the key

to handsome,

durable straight

stitching

Decrease tension Increase tension

CHECKING FOR CORRECT TENSION OF THREAD

The good looking appearance of your straight stitching is mainly determined by the balanced tension of the top thread and bobbin thread. The tension is well balanced when the

two threads lock m the middfe of the layers of fabric when

straight stitching.

You can achieve balanced tension by regulating the Top Thread Tension Control (17). if the upper thread appears to

be too tight, dial left (lower numbers) to decrease tension. If the upper thread is too loose, dial right (higher numbers} to increase tension.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

TOP STITCH

TOO TIGHT

TOP STITCH

TOO LOOSE

STRAIGHT STITCH

JUST RIGHT

THREAD

TENSION:

ZIGZAG STITCHING

CHECKING FOR GOOD LOOKING ZIGZAG STITCHES

Always practice stitching on two layers of the fabr=c

you will be using. Make sure that you are using the right size and type

of needle for the fabric. See chart page 11, Choose a thread of good quality and type for your

fabric. See chart page 11. Remember -- the wider the zigzag setting, the more

BOBBIN TENSION

The bobbin tension has been correctly set at the factory, so you do not need to adjust it.

chance for puckering. Reduce the top tension, if puckering occurs,

The top thread will be visible on the bottom to varying degrees depending on the thread, fabric, type of stitch being used and speed of sewing.

The bobbin thread should never be visible on the top of the fabric,

CHANGING

NEEDLES AND

NEEDLEPLATES

Needle choice depends

on thread _,.,both

determined by fabric

YOUR SIZE 14 NEEDLE IS BASIC., o o,. to most of your sewing, To replace

needle: Turn hand wheel toward you to raise Needle Bar (10) to highest posi- tion. Loosen Needle Clamp Screw (9)

with screwdriver. Holding flat side away from you, insert needle as far as it

will go. Tighten clamp screw securely, using screwdriver.

TO REPLACE THE NEEDLEPLATE INSERT

Raise needle to its highest position. Remove Bobbin Cover Plate (4), Lift Needleptate (6) and remove by

lifting up and out (shown at far left). Insert other needle plate; push down with both hands to lock. Replace bobbin cover plate.

Needteplate Ufts out Replacement Jocks =n

_1 1o

I,, ,,.I

For zigzag stitching, use

silver needleptate with wtde oval hole

ol to

!,, I

For straight and strmght stretch sewing, silver plate

has round ho_e

CHOOSING

THE RIGHT NEEDLE

FOR THE FABRIC

Kenmore needles are

recommended for all

Kenmore machines

,,. you'll find them in your nearest Sears store or the Sears

General Catalog. m the sewing machine section.

If you do not have a Kenmore needle, prease use th_s illustra-

tion to be sure your needle asthe right size. Distance from top of

needle to needlehote should be

this exact length,

When do you change needles? Usually after sewing 2 or 3 garments or whenever the needle is blunted, bent

or dirty. And, of course, you'lt change need{es to suit fabric as indicated by this chart,

THE FABRIC IS THE KEY TO NEEDLE AND THREAD CHOICE

FABRIC

LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste, Dimity,

Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys, Fine Lace, Organza. Crepe,

Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

i i i.i.

MEDIUMWEtGHT: Cotton.

Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,

Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

, ,, ,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,m,,,,,

MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT:

Corduroy, Denim. Wool, Sailcloth, Woo! Flannel,

Gabardine, Velvets, Leather

HEAVYWEIGHT; Coatings,

Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on ell types of fabric

Synthetic Knits and Stretch:

Polyester Doubie Kmts, Nylon

Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,

Spandex, Cire Tricot

, N,,, • J ,J.J

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

9- BROWN

11-ORANGE

14-RED

1B-PURPLE Polyester Synthetm

1B-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18÷GREEN

Q-BLUE

with

"Q FOOT ....

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Synthetm

SilkA

Polyester Core! Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Synthetm

Siik A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Sirk A

Heavy-Duty Mercerized Cotton

Po{yester Synthetic

Silk A

Buttonhole Twist

Polyester Synthetic 50 Mercenzed Cotton

• , ,.i,, ,

RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitches

per inch

10to 12 stitches

per inch

12 stitches

per inch

8 stitches

per inch

6 stitches

per inch

10 for Reguiar

6 for Stretch

Stitches

STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEV_NG

YOUR FOOT

CONTROLS THE

SPEED

THE

"PRESSER FOOT"

APPLIES THE

PRESSURE

ZIGZAG_ _ STRAIGHT

FOOT _ _F_IOTOC_

Z3gzag |ool mstatled on

machine: 8 others In _:cesso_ea,

Easy to use as an automobile accelerator{ Seated comfortably? Directly in front of your machine? Place the Foot Control

(46) where your foot reaches it easily,

Turn on the PowerlLight Switch (28).

Now simply press your foot on pedal (45) until you reach a slow even speed. Never

try to sew too fast. The harder you push, the faster the machine will sew (Except

when Basting Switch (24) is on}, Good idea: For your very first use, test speed

control on a remnant!

The Presser Foot (7) exerts pres-

sure on fabnc when stitching.

To change presser feet, simply drop Presser Foot Lock (39--ar- row) and slip foot away from the

Presser Bar (38). For added con- venience, the Presser Foot Lever

(371 has a double lift; raise this lever beyond the normal up position and

ptace new foot on presser bar. To

lock toot securely, raise presser toot lock as high as possible. That's

a!I there ts to it!

Speed range switch

Your machine has two ranges of speed- a low range for slower,

intricate work and a high one for

faster, general work. On the low

setting the machine will not sew faster than a certain speed, even when the foot control is fully

depressed.

i _ O i

Presser foot pressure is vitat for straight seams, uniform stitch

length, even handling of both layers of fabric. To adjust pressure; use

Pressure Regulator which is situated reside the face cover (12). Then to increase pressure, turn the dial clockwise (or vice versa). Just remember.., for lightweight fabnc,

more pressure; for heavy fabr=c, tess pressure.

THE "FEED DOGS'"

KEEP THE FABRIC

MOVING

The Feed Dogs (42) are at work reside your machine

under the Needleplate (6) creating an upward force

that moves fabric under presser foot. As the stitch is

being set into the fabric, the feed comes up to help presser foot keep fabric taut, then to advance fabric

one stitch at a time. Feed automatically is controlled by Stitch Length Control (31) m don't pull fabric,

Yes, you can feed the fabric by hand in some sewing situations- for example, when freehand writing,

Just raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot, Attach darning plate over needleplate

as shown at right. Reduce presser foot pressure. Then you can control the movement of fabric by

hand,

AND THE

"SEAM GUIDES"

KEEP YOU ON

TARGET

Seam guides are printed on needleplate, at

both sides of needle, to help you line up the

fabric and keep it straight. The standard

seam width is 5/8°', So these lines are em- phasized, easy to follow. Also the cross lines

on the Bobbin Cover Plate (4) are "cornering guides" to help when turning a square

corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. (For details on cornering, see page t5)

CORNERING GUIOES

SWING UP

FOR FREE ARM

SEWING

This machine easily converts from a flat-bed to a free-arm machine for easy handling of awkward, hard-to-reach

sewing tasks. To convert to free-arm, push Release But- ton (5), swing base up and away.

With the Base (44) swung away, you can ship any sleeve

under the presser foot. Now you can see seam clearly, sew

without hindrance, It's great for patching and decorating,

too (see section on "Finishing Touches").

Tricky turtlenecks are a cinch to stitch with the free arm. (If

you're sewing sweater-type fabric, see "Stretch" section.) To stitch armhole of a vest (or

pants legs or a waistband), you'll find Jt easIer if you re-

move the Base (44) completely, Fofiow the directions be!ow.

BASE SLIPS OFF tF SPACE NEEDED To slip the base off, swing the base away and puil it to the left.

(if in cabinet, lift machine to free-arm position,| To replace base, insert Guide Pin into position and swing base down toward you,

until it snaps in place, it's a flat-bed machlne!

EASY TO SET FOR

ALL STRAIGHT

STITCH I NG

Stitch length is your

key decision

HERE ARE YOUR BASIC SE_INGS FOR STRAIGHT STITCHING .°.

Raise needle to highest position. Push"

and turn Stitch Selector (22) until straight stitch setting (iI) is illuminated in red on

the indicator (20), Set Stitch Width Control (21) at zero,

This is the setting for all straight stitching

(You will vary this for zigzag sewing -- so

it's detailed on page 17.)

Chances are, you'll use straight stitching most fre- quently. This is the basic permanent stitch that holds

the garment together. You'll use the Straight Stitch

Presser Foot and Straight Stitch Needteplate, of course. Machine settings are detailed below.

For permantent seaming, the straight stitch length is determined by thickness of fabric. The numbers on the Stitch Length Contro! (31) indicate approximate stitches per inch. As a general rule, the heawer the fabric, the longer the stitch; lighter fabric, shorter stitches, Best stitch for medium- weight fabrics is the t0-to-t2 setting indicated at right below,

Set this inner dial, the Stitch Modifier (30)

at the neutral (notched) position for all simple forward stitches.

You may use either a zig zag or straight stitch foot BUT-- for best control of

fabric, best looking straight stitches and

best feeding of fabric use Straight Stitch Foot and Straight Stitch Needle Plate.

(See next page for tips on reinforcing and secur- ing permanent seams.)

electronic

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