55039
I N.S T R U C T ! O N S
MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750
ZlG-ZAG SEWING MACHINE
P/N 55039
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38
Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10
Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _13
Applique .............................................. 26
Basting ................................................ 11
Biind Stitching ...................................... t9
Buttonholes .................................... 20 - 25
Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15
Cleaning and Oiling ........................... 31 - 33
Connecting Machine ............................... 4
Darning ............................................... 18
Decorative Stitching ............................... 17
Double Needle ................................. 28 - 29
Fastening a Seam .................................. 15
Feed Dog Control ................................... !5
Identification- Head Parts ...................... 2 - 3
Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case ............. 8
inserting Pattern Disc .............................. 16
Inserting and Removing Material ................ 14
Installing Machine Head .......................... 4
Needle and Thread Table ......... '................ 5
Needle Size .......................................... 5
Overcasting ................... '....................... 27
Parts List ........................................ 36 - 37
Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................ 10
Placement of Needle ............................... 5
Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle .......... 6
Reverse Stitching ................................... 11
Replacement of Belt ............................... 31
Setting Stitch Length ............................. 11
Setting Stitch Width ............................... 16
Sewing Light ......................................... 4
Sewing on Buttons ................................. 19
Sewing on Lace ..................................... 26
Sewing on Plastic Films ........................... 30
Sewing on Stretch Fabrics ....................... 27
Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc .............. 16
Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ............... 26
Synthetics ............................................ 30
Threading Upper Machine ........................ 9
Turning a Corner .................................... 15
What to Do ..................................... 34 - 35
Winding the Bobbin ................................ 7
Writing and Monogramming ............. ,....... 27
FRONT VIEW
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1. Hand Hole Cover Plate
2. Feed Dog
3, Presser Foot
4. Presser Foot Thumb Screw
5, Thread Guides
6. Thread Tension Assembly
7. Thread Guide
8. Face Cover Plate
9. Thread Take.up
10. Arm Cover Plate
11. Bobbin Winder Mechanism
12. Stitch Width Control Knob
13. Stitch Length Control Lever
14. Light Switch
15. Fead Dog Control Knob
t6. Nomenclature Plate
BACK VIEW
¢
17. Ho_d Wheel
_,. Clutch Knob.
39 _u_tonhole R_verse Stitch
{.ength Control
20. Upper Thread Spool_Pros
22. Bobbi_ W,_der Tension
_'3. Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b
24. Upper Thread G_es
_5, Presser Foot L_v_r
26. Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew
27. Threod Cutte_
28, Needle Plato
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INSTALLINGMACHINEHEADIN PORTABLE
ANDCABINET
Loosen the two hinge screws under holes in the rear
edge of the machine bed 11_. Raise hinge pins in the
cabinet cutout _2_. Sllp machine head onto the pins
and tighten hinge screws securely _3 .
Lower machine head to front flap.
Screw spool pins in place. Lay the plastic discs over
the spool pins. Discs and pins are packed in the
accessory box.
SEWINGLIGHT
The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate
as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing
the light switch. In order to operate the machine
the switch must he on.
To remove bulb, turn light switch off, open the face
cover plate by swinging it open, push bulb in slightly,
turn bulb clockwise, and remove from socket. To
replace, push in new bulb and turn counter clockwise.
See illustration 4.
CONNECTINGMACHINE
Push the plug onto three-prong connector under the
bed plate. Plug machine cord into any 110-120V
wall outlet. See illustration 5.
NEEDLEANDTHREADTABLE
THREAD SIZE NEEDLE FABRIC
SiZE
Cotton 60-100
Synthetic
Silk A
Cotton 60-80
Mercerized 50
Synthetic
Si_k A
11
14
Cotton 40.60
Mercerized 50 16
Mercerized heavy duty
Cotton 30-50
18
Mercerized heavy duty
Sheer cottons, s_JkL and synthetics
i Fine laces
Medium weight cottons
Medium weight Silks
Medium weight synthetics
Light weight woolens
Heavy weight cottons
Medium :_o heavy weight woolens
Heavy drapery fabrics
Heaviest cottons as for men's work c|othes
Heaviest woolen coating
NEEDLESIZE
Use KENMORE 6021 needles. The size of the needle should
conform to the size of the thread and both should be suitable
to the material. The same size thread should be used in the
bobbin as on the upper part of the machine for ordinary
sewing. Never use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point.
I + II !
.+ _ ii
I ) I|/
This is the exact length of the needle to
be used in your machine. Comparison with
this illustration will determine whether the
needle you have is the correct one for
your mach_.
PLACEMENTOFNEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest po-
sition by turning hand wheel
toward you. Loosen needle clamp
screw+ Hold the needle with If|at
side away from you. Sllp the
needle as far as it will go into the
needle clamp, and tighten the
needle clamp screw.
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Needle at
its highest
position.
Pull
out
latch.
Pull bobbin case
straight out.
REMOVINGBOBBIN
CASEFROMSHUTTLE
WINDING THE BOBBIN
0
Place thread on spool /"-__ _ ..... .....
post. Draw thread as _/_11_-_:,--_
0
Wind thread around
bobbin a few times.
0
Place bobbin onto
bobbin winder shaft.
Push bobbin winder
latch until it clicks.
0
Release clutch by
turning clutch knob
toward you. Start
machine.
0
,%,.
When bobbin is full,
winding mechanism
stops.
0
Tighten clutch knob
,_-, ki.:::
and remove bobbin.
.......................ii!i:__6_..... _i¸i¸
INSERTINGBOBBININTOBOBBINCASE.........CASEINTOSHUTTLE
Guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.
Pull thread through slot.
Pull thread under tension spring.
Holding [atch, position case into shuttle, release latch.
0
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THREADINGUPPERMACHINE
Place thread as illustrated between discs of
the Thread Tension Assembly. Prevent the
spool of thread from turning and by holding
the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop
up and pa_t the top hook until the thread
can be slipped nto the hook. When thread
tension is released, the spring wire loop will
return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread
in proper place. Release spool of thread and
continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.
_Di YI
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PICKINGUPBOBBINTHREAD
Raise presser foot lever.
Hold needle thread loosely in left band and rotate
hand wheel toward you one complete turn.
Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread.
See illustration.
Place threads back under presser foot.
ADJUSTINGTHEPRESSUREOFTHEPRESSERFOOT-
Push down outer ring of presser foot knob See
illustration). This will release pressure of presser
foot. To increase pressure, push down inner pin
until suitable pressure is obtained.
For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be about
half way down. When sewing multiple thickness or
heavy material, reduce the pressure, increase it
when sewing sheer fabrics.
Insufficient pressure may cause skipped stitches or
difficulty in guiding the fabric, if feed dog or presser
foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.
SETTINGSTITCHLENGTH
The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. Set lever to any desired
stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator
is aligned with the stitch length number desired.
The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. This will vary
slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. At No. 4 the
longest stitch is obtained. The size of stitch you select will depend on
fabric you are sewing. Straight stitching is done with stitch width control
on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc.
REVERSESTITCHING
Raise lever for reverse stitching. Lower lever for forward stitching. It
is best to begin and end most seams with reverse stitching often called
back tacking.
BASTING
For accomplishing quicker, more even and firmer basting, we suggest you
regulate the maciline in the following manner; Set stitch length at No. 4
for the longest possible stitch. Machine should be threaded in normal
manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated. Basting is
easily removed by pulling bottom thread. When basting very sheer fabrics,
use a paper backing.
If you prefer to use pins for basting, your KENMORE will sew over the
pins. Be sure to keep the pins at right angles to the seam and the head
of the pin away from the presser foot. Also reduce pressure on presser
foot.
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ADJUSTINGTENSIONS
Fig. 1
A perfect stitch will have threads locked between the
two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom.
(Refer to page 38)
PROBLEM REMEDY
0
Fig. 2
Upper thread too tight
O Upper thread too loose
Fig. 3
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Decrease Tension
Increase Tension
Whenstitchingis unsatisfactory as in
figures 2 and 3, adjust the upper
thread tension. Lower thread tension
requires adjustment less frequently
than the upper thread tension.
When stitch is satisfactory, as in figure
1 and seam is badly puckered, the
cause may be tight tensions and both
upper and lower may be adjusted.
When adjusting the tension on the
bobbin case, make slight adjustments
with a screwdriver. ISee page 38)
It is necessary to reduce the upper
thread tension somewhat when doing
decorative stitching. As the stitch
width is increased, the tension should
be decreased.
INCREASETENSION
Turn Clockwise.
DECREASETENSION
Turn Counter
Clockwise,
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INSERTINGANDREMOVINGTHEMATERIAL
For all kinds of sewing, consult chart page
5.
Before placing the material on the machine
see that :
* The presser foot and needle clamp screws
are both tight.
.The sizes of needle and thread suit the
kind of work to be done.
, The needle and take-up lever are at their
highest position.
* The tensions have been properly adjusted.
* The ends of the threads have been drawn
about 4 inches to the rear of the machine.
*The feed dog is up,
, Stitch length and width controls are set at
desired settings.
Experiment by sewing on the fabric to be
used to determine tension adjustments and
correct stitch settings.
Place material under the presser foot, insert
the needle into the material by turning the
hand wheel toward you, lower presser foot
and start sewing. To facilitate placement of
heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the
presser foot lever can be raised beyond the
normal "up" position.
To remove the work, first turn hand wheel
toward you until needle is at its highest
position, then raise the presser foot, draw
material to the rear and cut off excess thread
with the thread cutter located on the presser
bar.
IMPORTANT: Always turn the hand wheel
toward you! When machine is not being
used, place a piece of material over the feed
dog and lower the presser foot. Always
have fabric under the presser foot when
operating the machine. Operating threaded
machine without fabric will cause it to jam
by forcing thread into the shuttle. See pages
32 and 33,
14
CHANGINGTHEPRESSERFOOT
The various attachment feet available for certain kinds of work are
to be fastened to the presser bar.
To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by
raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw,
choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure.
TURNINGA CORNER
Stop sewing machine with needle in fabric. Raise presser foot.
Turn fabric. Lower presser foot and continue stitching.
FASTENINGA SEAM
Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot.
Lower needle into fabric about ½ inch from beginning of seam.
Push stitch length control lever up for reverse stitching. Stitch in
reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam.
Move stitch length control lever down for forward stitching and
complete seam. When you reach the end, raise the stitch length
control lever and sew back over ½ inch of completed seam.
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FEEDDOGCONTROL
The feed dog control knob is situated on the right front of machine
bedplate. When knob is turned to the left, feed dog drops and
does not: pull material. This allows the operator freedom of move-
ment of material, as for darning. For regular sewing, turn knob to
the right, "U" _Feed dog up).
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ZIGZAGCONTROL
SETTINGSTITCHWIDTH
lnsert disc _1. Turn the stitch width knob to the desired setting
between 0 and 4 on the knob, Zigzag stitch width increases from
! to 4, Straight stitching is possible only with control on 0 setting,,
or by removal of pattern dis_:.
When sewing with the double needte the stitch width control must
not be advanced beyond 2_, setting,
INSERTINGPATTERNDISC
i. Turn handwheel so that the needle is in its highest position,
2. Pull pattern disc shaft cover open,
3. Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft. Make sure the
retaining pin ,_g enters hole in disc,
To start a pattern at the beginning, align the engraved dot on
the disc with the cam follower _. To do this. slip the disc onto
the shaft so the engraved dot is at or as near (countercloek.
wise) the cam follower as possible, If the engraved dot is not
aligned with the cam lollower, turn the hand wheel toward you
until the dot is aligned, i_|f the machine is threaded, be sure to
place a scrap of fabric under the presser foot_.
To remove pattern disc. tollow steps 1 and 2, grasp disc and pull
from shaft.
SEWINGWITHREVERSEPATTERNDISC
Your machine is provided with four reverse pattern discs, discs
numbers 21, 22, 23 and 24. When using these pattern discs, the
stitch length control should be set at 4. The reverse stitch length
control _; should be in the upright position for most materials,
Depending upon the type of fabric used, this control may need
adjusting. Turn the control slightly to the right or to the left as
required to obtain the patterns illustrated on page 17. Practice on
an extra piece o[ fabric to be used.
1 2
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6 7 8 9 10
21 22 23
DECORATIVESTITCHING
This machine enables you to sew beautiful decorative and embroidery stitches by means of various discs
supplied with your machine, The movements of the needle are controlled by the disc. Basic decorative
stitches are made with the satin stitch fo0St, stitch width at 4 and stitch length at the red mark on the
indicator plate. Stitch length will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. Pattern
may be changed by using any other lengt h or width, All patterns also can be made with double needle.
See page 25. When using the disc numbers 2]. 22, 23 and 24, the stitch length control should be set at 4,
Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when it is used as directed in the instructions for Sewing
on Stretch Fabrics, See page 27.
It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension somewhat [or decorative stitching. As the stitch width
is increased, the tension should be decreased, This will prevent the material from puckering and will
prevent the bobbin thread from coming up on the top of the fabric.
€
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DARNING
WITHPRESSERFOOT:
1. Turn feed dog control to left.
2. Press down outer ring of presser foot knob, see page 10. With presser foot knob
in this position, mending, darning, monogram work, etc. may be done.
3. Stretch fabric tightly between two spring embroidery hoops and place under needle.
4. Lower presser bar so thread will have some tension. When you start to darn,
move fabric back and forth to cover darning area. Then turn fabric and continue
sewing at right angles to the previous stitching. Use medium machine speed. You
can make any length stitches desired. Slow movement of fabric will make short
darning stitches. Fast movement will make long stitches.
5. When you finish darning, raise presser foot and remove fabric. Increase pressure
for general sewing by pressing down inner pin of the presser foot knob, Turn feed
dog control to right.
18
WITHOUTPRESSERFOOT:
1. Turn feed dog control to left.
2. Remove presser foot.
Proceed as directed under steps 3 and 4 above.
3. When you finish darning, raise the presser foot lever and remove fabric, Replace
presser foot, and increase pressure for general sewing. Turn feed dog control to
right.
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SEWINGONBUTTONSu..d,.o
Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot
and lower foot to hold securely. Drop feed dog.
Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just
above button. Adjust stitch width so that needle will
align with a hole of button. Turn hand wheel again
by hand so that needle goes into second hole, readjust
stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times,
turning hand wheel manually. Finish sewing with an
extra 2 inches of thread, draw thread to reverse side
and tie securely.
li using a 4 hole button repeat the above procedure.
NOTE: To make a small thread shank when sewing
on a flat button, place a straight pin or needle between
the holes of the button.
BLINDSTITCHING
Disc _ 2
Stilch width 2 _May vQry depending on type of materiol]
Stitch length 3
1. Prepare the hem with a turned and edgestitched
[inlsh, or
2. Apply seam tape along the raw edge with either
straight or zigzag stltching.
3. Turn hem and baste about _ inch from the edge
of the seam tape using longest stitch on the sewing
machine.
4. Fold garment back along basting llne and stitch
along garment fold using disc _ 2.
5. Remove basting and press hem. The basting step
may be eliminated in a straight hem.
19
BUTTONHOLES
(Models 68, 95, 1600,
1650, t651, 1652)
Use disc _: I and special buttonhole _oot
Stitch tength at red mark
Buttonho[e control knob F
Feed dog cantrol U
Place the fabric, with the buttonhole length marked at both ends, under
the buttonhole foot. Without lowering the foot, let the needle pierce the
fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole. Set the foot so the beginning
of the red zone _closest to the needle_ is at the mark of the opposite
end of the buttonhole. Lower the foot.
Stitch forward until the needle reaches the red zone on the front edge of
foot, Then turn the knob to R, and stitch the other side of the button-
hole. Turn knob back to F to finish end of buttonhole. The speed with
which the knob is turned determines the number of stitches at the ends
of the buttonhole. The slower the knob is turned, while sewing, the
more stitches are formed. See page 21.
Reproduction of identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of
the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole foot. These graduations
are 1/8 inch apart. Just mark the starting points of the buttonholes, let
the needle pierce the fabric and set the index mark CA_ on the upper
portion of the foot at the same graduation mark CB_ as it was set for the
first buttonholeo Lower the foot, Follow the procedures outlined above.
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric used in the
garment, using a double thickness of fabric, and an interfacing if used
in garment.
The stitch length may be varied slightly by the stitch length control
lever within the 0 to 1 range. To increase forward stitch move this
lever from the red mark toward 1, to decrease move it toward the 0.
The buttonhole reverse stitch length control _C_) is used to match the
length of the reverse stitches with the forward stitches. Turn the dial
to the minus direction for shorter stitches; to the plus direction for
longer stitches. These settings may vary depending on the type of fabric
used,
2O
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Position 1
V
F
Step 1
v
Position 2
V ¸
R
/
Step 2
v
_ _••: A"_
<< <
<<
<<
:a.
<<
<<
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BUTTONHOLES
(Models 96, 17501
Use disc _ 1
Stitch width knob- about 1_
Feed dog control-Lef_
Covet plate for butlonholes
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Remove regular cover plate
and insert buttonhole cover
plate.
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Select desired template and
snap into guide plate,
Pull guide plate all the way
forward so that guide pin is
at S. This will enable you to
start at one end of the button-
hole. Screw guide pin on
guide plate into guide pin hole
on machine bed.
Drop guide plate into place
with template fitting over the
pinion gear,
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Pick up bobbin thread through
guide plate and draw threads
toward back. Place material
on the guide plate. Drop
presser foot and start sewing.
Buttonhole will be formed.
The buttonhole size and shape
is not influenced by the stitch
Length knob so it may be set
on any position.
An occasional drop of oil on
the oiling hole provided on
the back of the buttonhole
cover plate wilt provide
smooth operation of your
buttonhole maker.
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HINTSFORPERFECTBUTTONHOLES
Mark the position o[ each
buttonhole on the garment
with chalk or a line of basting.
Loosely woven fabrics and
fabrics that stretch easily such
as jersey should have an inter-
facing of a firm fabric. Use
cambric or taffeta between
woolens and rayons-organdy
or lawn between light weight
and sheer fabrics,
Use buttonhole scissors or
buttonhole cutter to cut
buttonhole open.
Always make a practice
buttonhole on a piece of the
fabric to be used in the
garment.
A wider stitch width may be
desirable on heavy weight
fabrics.
23
BUTTONHOLES
(Model t654)
Use disc # 1
Stitch width knob- about 1
Feed dog control- Left
Cover plate for buttonhotes
0
_[uidepinhol!
_ pinL0__ear
0
Remove regular cover plate and
insert buttonhole cover plate,
24
Screw guide pin on guide plate into
guide pin hole on machine bed.
Select desired size of buttonhole by
turning disc as shown above.
Length of buttonhole appears in
window on top s{de of guide plate.
Pull guide plate all the way for-
ward so that guide pin is at S.
This will enable you to start at
one end of the buttonhole,
Screw guide pin on guide ptate
into guide pin hole on machine
bed.
Drop guide plate into place with
template fitting over the pinion
gear.
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Pick up bobbin thread thraugh
guide plate and draw threads
toward back. Place material on
the guide plate, Drop presser foot
and start sewing, Buttonhole will
be formed. The buttonhole size
and shape is not influenced by
the stitch tength knob so it may
be set on any position,
An occasional drop of oil on the
oiling hole provided on the back
of the buttonhole cover plate will
provide smooth operation of your
buttonhole maker,
HINTS FOR PERFECT
BUTTONHOLES
Mark the position of each
buttonhole on the garment with
chalk or a line of basting.
Loosely woven fabrics and
fabrics that stretch easily such as
jersey should have an interfacing
of a firm fabric, Use cambric or
taffeta between woolens and
rayons-organdy or lawn between
light weight and sheer fabrics.
Use buttonhole scissors or
buttonhole cutter to cut button-
hole open.
Always make a practice button-
hole on a piece of the fabric to
be used in the garment,
A wider stitch width may be
desirable on heavy weight
fabrics.
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APPLIQUEu_o,,,_:,1
Baste cutout applique to fabric, Set stitch width 2 to
4, Set stitch length at the red mark on the indicator
plate. Zigzag stitch around applique completely cover-
ing the raw edge,
SEWINGONLACE uso,_o_1
Set stitch width to 2. Set stitch length to 2 or 3.
Place fabric under the presser foot anti position lace
inch from edge of fabric, Position fabric and lace
so that right stitch catches left edge of lace, Continue
stitching so that edge of lace is overcast.
STRAIGHTORTHREE-CORNEREDTEAR
U_e disc _ 6
Stitch width 4
Stitch [ength at red mor_
Position tear under needle and stitch along the strai-
ght tear catching sides of material. When mending a
three cornered tear, stitch from each end to center.
OVERCASTINGu. d_s°;_
Set stitch width to 4. Set stitch length to about 3.
Zigzag stitch around raw edge of fabric to completely
cover the edge.
WRITINGANDMONOGRAMMINGU_ed.: _1
Free hand
Stitch width 0 to 4
Feed dog control Left
Draw initials or words to be sewn on fabric and fit
fabric into embroidery hoops. Writing is done with
either zigzag or straight stitching. Remove presser
foot. Set stitch width for straight or zigzag stitches
as desired. Slip hoop and fabric under the needle.
lower presser bar and take one stitch to raise bobbin
thread through fabric. Using a medium speed, stitch
along marked outline, guiding fabric carefully by
hands,
SEWINGONSTRETCHFABRICSu_o_,o_2,
Stitch width 0
Stitch lenglh 4
Use with knitted fabrics and stretch fabrics. Sew as
you do straight stitching. Machine will make triple
lock stitches back and forth. The seam can be pressed
open without breaking thread.
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DOUBLENEEDLE
When using double needle
do not set stitch width
higher than 2½ setting.
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1. SETTINGTHEDOUBLENEEDLE
Raise the needle bar to its highest position and loosen needle
clamp screw. Hold double needle assembly with flat side away
from you. Slip the needle as far as it will go into needle
clamp, and tighten the screw.
2. THREADINGTHEDOUBLENEEDLE
Place a spool of thread on each spool pin. Draw both threads
through upper thread guides. Pass a thread between each set
of tension dis_:s of the thread tension assembly. Continue
threading as you would for single needle sewing except where
double thread guides are provided. Draw one thread through
each side of the double thread guides and through each needle
from front to back. Pull several inches of thread through.
Thread bobbin and pick up bobbin thread as for single needle
sewing.
3. THREADSELECTION
Use only mercerized sewing thread size 50 or finer. The same
size thread is recommended for both upper and lower thread-
ing.
4. STITCHING
All decorative patterns are possible with double needle.
Before starting any stitching operation, check needle drop
by turning the handwheel manually. Needle should enter
fabric without touching presser foot and needle plate. The
stitch width control must not be advanced beyond 23
setting.
5. TURNINGA CORNER
To turn a square corner when stitching with a double
needle, stop stitching with the longer needle tip just piercing
the fabric. Raise the presser foot, shift fabric half the
turn, lower presser foot and take one stitch. Raise the
presser foot again, complete the turn, and begin stitching
in the new direction.
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SYNTHETICS
Your KENMORE will sew all the new fabrics of synthetic fiber,
such as nylon, *Orion, _ _Dacron, rayon, acetate, blends o| these,
and combinations of synthetic and natural gibers. When stitching a
fabric of hlended or cnmbined fibers, handle it as you would a
material of the fiber present in the [arRest percentage. For example,
a fabric woven of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should be handled as one
made entirely of Orlon.
When stitching a fabric that is over 50% synthetic fiber, remember:
a. _elect patterns of the loose fitting type with cap or kimono
sleeves, because most synthetic fiber fabrics cannot he eased
wltil steam pressing, and are not absorbent,
b. Use a s_'nthetic thread.
c, Use a fine needle as recommended in chart on page 5.
d. Wind the bobbin in the usual way, but do not pass thread bet-
ween tension discs. Guide thread by hand for a smoothly wound
bobbin.
e,
f_
Choose the stitch length that gives the most satis|actory seam.
Check thread ten,ions by sewing on a double thickness of the
fabric to be used. Usually the upper thread tension must he
loosened. Sometimes both bobbin and upper thread tensions
must be loosened _pages 12, 13L
SEWINGONPLASTICFILMS
Set the machine with normal thread tensions and a large size stitch.
Use a fine needle and mercerized thread. Hold plastic pieces
together with cellophane tape or pape_ clips rather than pins. Sew
corners slightly rounded rather than square,
_Trademark tot Dupont's Acrylic fiber. _Trademafk for Dupont's
polyester fiber,
Fig. A
REPLACEMENTOFTHEBELT
Push motor against machine and remove
belt from motor pulley. Let motor down
gently. Pull belt out over hand wheel. Install
new belt reversing the above procedure.
CLEANINGANDOILING
Keep the moving parts free from dust and
thread for quiet and efficient operation.
Cleaning should be done with a small brush.
When machine runs hard or makes excessive
noise, place a drop of KENMORE sewing
machine oil at the points indicated in figs.
A, B, & C.
Swing hinged face cover plate open to oil
points indicated at end o{ machine head.
3_
i
!
t!_ at top of machine head. To remove cover plate,
_,_: take disc out from machine, remove too screws
:_ and lifft cover. F;o. B
It may be necessary to clean the shuttle area occasionally.
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove bobbin ca_,e.
2. Push levers sideways from the shut-
tle assembly and lift shuttle race
cover and shuttle out by the center
pin.
32
3. Clean the shuttle race of any lint or
small particles of thread with a small
brush.
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin
of the shuttle and on shuttle race
_see arrows),
Shuttle Race Cover Shuttle
Shutlle Race
To reass_mble, hold shuttle by center pin
and fit carefully into assembly opposite the
shuttle driver. Slip shuttle race cover into
place. Snap the levers into position.
Occasionally, remove the needle plate and
clean feed dog with a soft brush.
33
WHAT TO DO
'1II
'i
I
I
:I
!
PROBLEM
irregular
Stitches
Breaking
Needle
Bunching of
Thread
Puc_:ering
i= II
PROBABLE CAUSE
Incorrect size needle.
Improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Light pressure an presser foot.
Loose presser fao_,
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Pulling fabric,
Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Upper end lower threads not
drown back under presser foot.
Feed dog down,
Incorrect thread tension_s_.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Using two different sizes or
kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle,
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft.
CORRECTION
. ii
choose correct size needle For thread and fabric (page 5_.
Rethread machine _page 9_.
Tighten upper thread tension _page 12_.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
increase pressure on presser Foot (page 10)_
Reset presser foot _page 15_.
Rewind bobbin _page 7_.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needte for thread and fabric _page 5).
Reset needle _page 5].
Beset presser foot _page 15_.
Draw both threads back under presser foot Cpage 10_.
Raise feed dog _page 15_,
Reset thread tension_s_ _pages 12, 13_.
Increase pressure on presser Foot _page 10_.
Upper t_reod and bobbin thread should be same size and klnd.
Insert new needle _.page 5_.
Reset presser foot _poge 15_.
Use underlay oF tissue paper or tarlatan when stitching.
m
34
WHAT TO DO
,. i ii i i n i i i i I II I II [ I I IIIII III ill II IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Illill I I
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSG CORRECTION
IncOrreCt size neecl_e.
Ben_, or b{unt need{e.
Skipping
Incorrect setting of need|e,
Stitches
Tight upper thread tension,
Light pressure on presser foot,
Starting to stitch too |ast,
_mproper threading,
Breaking Upper Tight upper thread tension.
Thread
Incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Breaking Bobbin
Thread
Fabric not
Moving
Machine Jamming
_Knocking Noise_
Choose correct size needle for thread and |abric _page 5_.
Insert new needle _'page 57,
Reset need|e _poge 5_.
Loosen upper thread tension _poge 12_,
Increase pressure on presser foot _'page 10_.
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machlne ipage 91 ,
Loosen upper thread tension :_poge 12_.
Choose correct size needle for thread and Fabric _poge 5_.
Insert new needle _page 5_.
Improper bobbin case threading
Tight bobbin thread tension.
Lint in bobbin case or shutt|e.
Feed dog down.
Light pressure on presser _oot,
Threads knotted under fabric.
Check bobbin case threading _poge 8_.
Loosen bobbin thread tension _page 13_.
Clean babbln c<_se csr_ shuttle (pages 32, 33t.
Thread caught in shutt{e.
Raise feed dog ;page 151.
increase pressure on presser foot _page _0_.
Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
to stitch,
Disc_ssemble and cleon shuttle _pages 32, 33).
35
PARTS LIST
All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons- Sears retail store,
catalog sates office or mail order house.
@
@
@ @ @ ® @
@
@
36
Whenorderingtheseparts,pleasebesuretomentionthefollowingreferences:
1. Model&serialnumbersof machineshownonthenomenctatureplate.Seepage2.
2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here.
When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be shipped at prevailing
prices and you will be bilged accordingly.
Ref. No= Par s No. Description Ref. No. PartsNo. _tion Ref. No. PartsNo.
1 17980 Shuttle hook 10 6741 No. 11 Single needles in yellow case 9022
2 26929 Needle clamp 6742 No, 14 Single needtes in red case 9023
3 F502 Bobbin 6743 No, 16 Singte needles in green case 9020
4 6510 Bobbin case 6744 No. 18 Single needles in blue case 23 9181
5 6797 Light bulb 11 1939 Bobbin winder rubber ring 24 9_62
6 30!5 Large screw driver 12 2273 Nylon disc 25 32736
7 3076 Small screw driver 13 8286 Thread spool pin
8 26841 Pattern disc No_ 1 14 1222 Bobbin winder tension disc
26842 Pattern disc No. 2 15 740 Straight stitch foot
26843 Pattern disc No. 3 16 9363 Zigzag presser foot
26844 Pattern disc No, 4 17 6870 Satin stitch foot
26845 Pattern disc No. 5 18 135 Presser foot thumb ,_crew
26846 Pattern disc No, 6 19 6902 Motor rubber belt
26847 Pattern disc No. 7 20 6864 Needle threader
26848 Pattern disc No. 8 2I 6854 Buttonhole foot
26849 Pattern disc No, 9 22 8939 1-1!16" Keyhole template
26850 Pattern disc No, 10 8940 1-1/16" Regular template
2t_6t Pattern disc No. 21 8941 !3t16" Regular template
26862 Pattern disc No. 22 8942 5/8" Regular template
26863 Pattern disc No. 23 _293 6! 16" Reguatr template end
26864 Pattern disc No, 24 ayelel temptate
9 6745 Double needle in ivory case 9021 15/16" Regular template
1/2" Regular template
3/8" Regular template
5/8" Keyhole template
Buttonhole cover plate
Buttonhole guide plate
Buttonhole guide plate
37
ADJUSTING YOUR SEWING MACHINE FOR GOOD STITCHES
38
When your sewing machine does not sew a properly locked stitch, check the following:
1. Insert a new needle of the correct size for the thread and fabric you are using.
Consult chart on page 5 for'needle size.
2. The upper and bobbin thread should be matched in size and type.
3, Check threading carefully, See page 9.
4. Check the thread tension balance. Use mercerized thread, and a correct size needle
for the fabric you are using. Do not try this test with synthetic thread as it will not
break.
Begin with a full bobbin, properly threaded into the case. Set the stitch length at
about 12 stitches per inch. Fold a 6 _ square of your fabric in half diagonally, forming
a triangle. Make a line of stitching _'_ from fold.
a. If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight.
b. If the bottom thread lays on the fahric- tighten upper thread tension, and repeat
test. See page 12, Figure 3.
c. If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread tension, and repeat
test. See page I2. Figure 2.
Grasp the stitching and pull with a snap to make threads break.
a. if both threads break-tensions are balanced.
b, if neither thread breaks-both tensions are too loose.
c. If upper thread breaks-loosen upper tension.
d. If lower thread breaks-tighten upper tension.
oth threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break on the same
_ap.
obbin tension may be reset by the following procedure. Start with a loose bobbin thread
msion. Tighten the spring screw gradually until bobbin case and full bobbin can be
gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread.
39
_[ ]1_._[ 0
40
SEWING MACHINE
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL I U.S.A. and
SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Printed in Japan Part No. 55039 9/91
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