EXAMPLE A - NON-LOOPING FENCE WITH CURRENT SHARED
THROUGH BOTH WIRES
EXAMPLE C - FENCE LOOPS BACK TO ENERGIZER
SELECTING AND CHANGING THE
CHANNEL ON THE FAULT FINDER
/ REMOTE AND ENERGIZER
(FAULT FINDER / REMOTE ONLY)
By default from the factory the Fault
Finder / Remote and the Energizer
are both set to channel 1.
It is not necessary to change to a
different channel if you do not have
multiple Energizers with remote capability next to or on adjacent fences.
To select and change the channel
on the Remote and the Energizer:
1. Turn on the Fault Finder / Remote.
2. Hold the Remote next to the
Energizer and press the ( )
OFF button to put the Energizer
into standby mode. See the Ener-
gizer’s operator manual for details
as Energizer models may vary.
3. Press and hold down the ( )
power button then press the ( )
OFF button. The current channel
set in the Remote will be displayed.
Example “ch1”.
4. Press and release the ( )
OFF button to toggle through the
available channels on the Remote.
5. Once the desired channel is
displayed on the Remote hold
the Remote next to the Energizer
and press
the ( ) ON button
.
The Energizer will now confirm
that the new channel has been
accepted. “See the Energizer’s
operator manual for details as
Energizer models may vary”.
NOTE: If changing the channel
on the Remote is needed to
match the channel on the
energizer, perform steps 3
through 5 without holding the
Remote next to the energizer.
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE LOOKING
FOR A FAULT ON YOUR FENCE
It is important to know, when using
the Fault Finder for the first time,
that a large current reading on the
fence does not necessarily mean
that there is a critical fault on your
fence. The larger the Energizer
and the fence that is connected,
as well as vegetation on the fence,
are all factors that will increase the
current reading.
It is recommended to first go
around the perimeter of the fence
and take voltage readings at
various locations to determine the
effectiveness of your fence system.
If, at various fence locations, you
have around 3000 volts or more
it is probably not necessary to
troubleshoot your fence.
If locations on your fence measure
less than 3000 volts (depending
on the size of the Energizer),
then it is recommended that you
troubleshoot your fence. Check the
Energizer and grounding system
to ensure they are adequate for
your electric fence size. If either
the Energizer or the grounding
system is insufficient, for your
fence size, then correct this before
troubleshooting your fence. (Check
your fence Energizer manual
for details on the Energizer and
checking the grounding system).
You should check your ground
system 2 times a year, even if
the fence seems fine. The ground
system is one of the most important
aspects of your electric fence
system, since it completes the
circuit between the hot fence wire,
animal contact, and the Energizer.
UNDERSTANDING THE FENCE
CURRENT AND VOLTAGE READINGS
To understand how the Fault Finder
will help you find a fault on the
fence, it is helpful to understand the
concept of what you are measuring,
as it relates to the effectiveness of
your electric fence system.
Let’s use a water hose analogy
to understand your electric fence.
Think of the Energizer as a water
pump and the electric fence wire
as a water hose.
The Fault Finder (amp) reading
can be thought of as showing
the amount of water leaks in the
hose, with small holes (leaks), at
various locations along the hose.
All fences, even under normal
condition, will have small leaks
(fence hot to fence ground leaks).
Expect a larger fence to show
larger current readings since it will
naturally have more leaks (faults).
Using a larger Energizer will have
more flow and this causes the
fence to have bigger leaks (faults).
More flow will result in a larger
current (amp) reading.
Vegetation on the fence is also
a leak and this will also cause a
larger current reading. Common
leak locations will be grass/weeds
in contact with a hot fence wire,
tree limbs that are in contact with
a hot wire, old cracked insulators,
or any other object that comes in
contact with both the ground and
the hot fence wire.
When you are measuring the
current at the beginning of the
fence you are measuring all the
leaks (faults) in the fence. The
farther you go from the Energizer
the less the current is on the fence.
This is because you are measuring
less of the fence total leaks (faults)
the farther you walk away.
The voltage reading on the Fault
Finder can be thought of as the
amount of water in the hose. This
is why the more leaks (faults) there
are, the lower voltage reading.
This is the reason why fence
voltage can be less as you go
farther from the Energizer. The
less the voltage is on the fence is a
result of all the small leaks. (There
is less and less water in the hose.)
HOW DO YOU USE THE READING
TO FIND A FAULT ON THE FENCE?
2 TYPES OF FENCE
CONFIGURATIONS
Fence does not loop back to
the Energizer - When using the
Fault Finder in a non-looping fence
(See example A or B), the current
arrow direction is not needed to
determine the location of the fault,
and can be ignored.
Fence loops back to the
Energizer - When using the Fault
Finder with a fence that loops back
to the Energizer (See example
C), the current arrows are used to
determine the location of the fault.
In normal conditions, as you
test along a fence with no loops
or faults, the fence current will
decrease the farther you are from
the Energizer (See example A).
If you have a fence with one
or more major faults, as you
test along the fence there will be
excess amounts of current on the
fence. As you pass the point of the
fault, the current will rapidly drop.
At this point simply go backwards
on the fence and find the exact
point, where, on each side, there
is the large change in current. This
is where your fault is located (See
example B).
With a fence with loops and
faults, as you test along the fence
the current will point in the direction
of the current and as you pass
the point of the fault the current
direction will change. At this point
simply go backwards on the fence
and find the exact point, where,
on each side, there is a change in
the direction of the current. This is
where your fault is located.
REPLACING THE BATTERY
When the
( )
low battery
symbol appears on the display
it is time to replace the 9 volt
battery. For longer battery life it is
recommend using a 9 volt alkaline
type battery.
1. Remove the battery cover by
unscrewing the 2 screws on the
bottom/back metal piece of the
Fault Finder. It’s recommended
you do this over a table so you
do not lose the 2 small battery
cover screws.
2. Remove the old battery and
replace it with the new battery.
When replacing the new battery
check the polarity as shown
in the battery compartment to
ensure the battery is connected
correctly. If you must force the
battery then the polarity is most
likely reversed.
3. Put the battery cover back in
place and carefully screw in the 2
screws. Tighten the screws but
don’t apply excessive force to
prevent stripping the screw.
CARING FOR THE FAULT FINDER
/ REMOTE
• Do not leave the Fault Finder
in direct sunlight, for instance
on the dash of a vehicle. The
extreme heat may damage the
Fault Finder.
• Use only a damp cloth to clean
the Fault Finder.
• Your Fault Finder is water
resistant not water proof.
Avoid submerging the Fault
Finder in water.
• Remove the battery if the Fault
Finder is not being used for an
extended period of time. This
will prevent damage to the Fault
Finder from battery leakage.
EXAMPLE A - NON-LOOPING FENCE WITHOUT FAULTS
EXAMPLE B - FENCE WITH ONE OR MORE MAJOR FAULTS
- 9 - - 10 - - 11 - - 12 -
- 13 -
- 14 - - 15 - - 16 -
ENERGIZER
6.0
AMPS
3.0
AMPS
2.0
AMPS
1.0
AMPS
ENERGIZER
10.0
AMPS
5.0
AMPS
5.0
AMPS
1.0
AMPS
1.0
AMPS
ENERGIZER
20.0
AMPS
18.0
AMPS
3.0
AMPS
1.0
AMPS
Fault
(Short to
Ground)
ENERGIZER
Fault
Indicates
Current
Direction
ENERGIZER