KEMLAN XL FREESTANDING
INSTALLATION & OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
specialists in fireplace design & manufacture
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
A - 785mm width
B - 838mm height
C - 603mm depth
D - 216mm depth (centre of ue to back)
A
D
C
B
IMPORTANT:
INSTALLER PLEASE LEAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS WITH THE UNIT ON COMPLETION.
1x900mm LENGTH HEATSHIELD OR DECROSHIELD MUST BE FITTED TO THE FLUE TO
ACHIEVE CLEARANCES TO HEAT SENSITIVE MATERIALS.
10 YEAR FIREBOX WARRANTY
The rebox is covered by a 10 year warranty.
Other parts are covered by one year limited warranty
Head Ofce Telephone -
Facsimile -
Website Business hours -
Email: -
13 French Avenue, Brendale, Queensland 4500
(07) 3263 8448
(07) 3263 6452
www.kemlan.com
Monday to Thursday 7:30am - 4:00pm. Friday 7:30am - 2:00pm
sales@kemlan.com.au
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
*As per Clause 3.3.3 of AS/NZS 2918 for oor protector
construction requirements.
Where a sample appliance installation (or prototype
installation) has not been tested, the oor protector
shall extend either to a distance of not less than 500mm
(measurement C) beyond any part of the appliance or a
lesser distance at which it forms a abutment with a wall or
heat shield (subject to the requirements of Clause 3.2).
Heating capacity of this appliance is given as a guide only
and may vary depending on the climate zone and type
of dwelling (oor plan and degree of insulation). Consult
your local authorised distributor to determine realistic
expectations for your home.
Heat output and fuel consumption of this appliance
is dependent on the moisture content, size, loading
geometry and the type of hardwood used.
The appliance complies to the safety standards AS/NZS
2918. When in use some parts may become hot. A
suitable reguard is recommended where the very young,
elderly or inrm are concerned.
CONSTRUCTION
- 6 & 8mm heavy duty steel rebox – fully welded
- 25mm thick rebrick lined oor
- 19mm ceramic lined sides and bafe
PERFORMANCE
- Heating capacity – 220-320m2 (23-33 squares)
- Peak heat output – 21.6kW
- Average output – 2.0g/kg
- Average efciency – 61%
Glass viewing area - 602mm wide x 302mm high
Flue pipe - ø150mm – top exit
Shipping weight - 215kg
All dimensions shown are approximate. Check all
dimensions accurately before installation. Before
installing refer to the installation instructions.
In line with our policy of continuous improvement, we
reserve the right to alter specications without notice.
A - 100mm
B - 550mm
C - 150mm
D - 3200mm
E - 945mm
F - 620mm
G - 1200mm
H - 1060mm
I* - 500mm
STANDARD INSTALLATION
MINIMUM CLEARANCES FOR THE KEMLAN XL SOLID FUEL
APPLIANCE INSTALLED WITH A DEFAULT FLUE KIT
CORNER INSTALLATION
I*
I*
NOTE:
The oor protector consists of a 12mm thick cement bre sheet
which has a thermal resistance of 0.8² k/W, per 4mm thick sheet
A
C
C
F
F
H
D
G
B
E
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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
TRIPLE FLUE KIT
INSTALLATION TO COMPLY WITH AS/NZS 2918
Stainless steel
double cone cowl
Support outer ue
with bracket supplied
Support outer ue
with bracket supplied
Roof ashing supplied
by contractor
Ceiling line
10”
8”
6”
1000mm minimum
distance above roof line
Vented cap
Ceiling plate
12mm min air gap
between ceiling line
and celling plate
25mm min air gap
B
Trim line
Short tube ts into ue
pipe. All ues should
be trimmed level
Pop rivet or
screw brackets to
the outside of the
outer casing
A
FLAT CEILING
A
Outer casing may be
painted without priming.
Run a bead of silicon down
seam of outer casing to
ensure against leaks. All
casing ue pipes must be
connected via pop rivets
supplied by installer
Stainless steel ue pipe.
All ue pipes must be
connected via pop rivets
supplied by installer
B
150mm min
NOTE:
When decromesh/heatsheild is tted, it must nish a minimum 600mm below
the ceiling or extend through the ceiling drop box into the outer ue casing.
Always cover ue completely until installation and cleanup is complete.
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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
TRIPLE FLUE KIT
INSTALLATION TO COMPLY WITH AS/NZS 2918
Vented cap
Ceiling plate
12mm min air
gap between
ceiling line and
celling plate
25mm min air gap
B
RAKED CEILING
A
B
Trim line
Short tube ts into ue
pipe. All ues should
be trimmed level
Pop rivet or
screw brackets to
the outside of the
outer casing
A
150mm min
Stainless steel
double cone cowl
Support outer ue
with bracket supplied
1000mm minimum
distance above roof line
Outer casing may be
painted without priming.
Run a bead of silicon down
seam of outer casing to
ensure against leaks. All
casing ue pipes must be
connected via pop rivets
supplied by installer
Stainless steel ue pipe.
All ue pipes must be
connected via pop rivets
supplied by installer
10”
8”
6”
Roof ashing supplied
by contractor
NOTE:
When decromesh/heatsheild is tted, it must nish a minimum 600mm below
the ceiling or extend through the ceiling drop box into the outer ue casing.
Always cover ue completely until installation and cleanup is complete.
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FAN OPERATION
3 SPEED FAN
AIR INLET SETTING
FAN SPEED
HIGH
BOOST
No No No
No No
Yes Yes Yes
Yes
HIGH LOW
MEDIUM
LOW
2 SPEED FAN
AIR INLET SETTING
FAN SPEED
HIGH
HIGH
No No
No Yes
Yes Yes
LOW
MEDIUM
LOW
3000
3000
3000
3000 or less
3000 or less
1000 min if clear within
3000 of top of ue
Increase from 1000 min until
clear within 3000 of top of ue
More than 3000
More than 3000
600 min
600 min
Any nearby structure
Increase as necessary until
nothing within 3000 of ue top
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
MINIMUM HEIGHT OF FLUE SYSTEM EXIT
INSTALLATION TO COMPLY WITH AS/NZS 2918
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CERTIFICATE GOES HERE
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Your stove has been painted with the highest quality silicone stove paint and has special break-in procedures to cure it
with heat and make it hard.
VENTILATE WELL
Ventilate the house during the rst three times the stove is used. The paint on the stove will give off smoke heavy with
carbon dioxide and has an odor. Without adequate ventilation, concentrations of smoke could irritate, or be upsetting, so open doors and windows and use a fan if necessary. After these initial burns the paint will be cured and there
should be no more smoke.
DON’T TOUCH DURING CURING
Don’t touch the surface. It will be soft and gummy during this paint curing phase. Once cured, it will not be soft again.
CURE WITH 3 FIRES
Most stoves cure with 3 burns. The rst two (2) should be 250°F for 20 minutes, or about half a normal re. Let the
stove cool down between burns. The last re should be 500°F to 700°F for at least 45 minutes. The point being, cure
slowly without a hot re.
Stoves with cooler surface temperature and those that have been painted with another colour before,
will take longer to cure.
Curing can usually be observed by the effect of the paint turning at as the heat radiates out from hotter parts of the
stove.
ABOUT CURING
So remember...
1. Ventilate well
2. Do not touch during curing
3. Cure with 3 res
4. Call your dealer for any questions
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1. Open the air inlet fully by sliding the air inlet control to high.
2. Crumple at least three double pages of newspaper into loose balls and place them into the centre of the rebox.
Cross lay at least 15 to 20 pieces of kindling on top of the paper – if pine is used, the size should vary from the
thickness of a pencil to that of a knife handle – if hardwood is used split it even smaller.
3. Light the paper and close the door.
Once the kindling is well alight, add a few pieces of slightly larger hardwood, split to
approximately 25mm x 50mm (2” x 1”).
4. Close the door and leave the air inlet control on high. When the hardwood is well alight (usually 5 to 10 minutes)
and coals are starting to form, larger pieces of hardwood may be added – ve or six pieces the equivalent of
50mm x 50mm (2” x 2”) is ideal.
The object is to create a ercely burning re of reasonable small hardwood, which will quickly produce a good
bed of glowing coals on the oor of the rebox. This will take from 20 to 40 minutes depending on the quality of
the rewood.
5. Larger pieces of hardwood may now be added. Half ll the rebox and leave the air inlet control on high until the
wood is well alight then close the control approximately a third of its travel.
Usually about one hour after lighting, the air inlet control can be further shut down to achieve the desired heat
output.
When adding new rewood it is desirable to fully open the air inlet for approximately 10 to 15 minutes until the
new pieces are burning well, then it may be returned to its desired setting.
6. To set the re for overnight burn – two-thirds ll the rebox with hardwood and fully open the air inlet.
Once the re is burning well, the air inlet control should be shut down approximately three-quarters of its travel.
Setting the air inlet control may be varied to suit your particular requirements and the quality and size of your
rewood.
Remember wet or green wood may cause a dramatic reduction in the heat output of your heater (refer to “Operating Hints” for more details).
7. Have the ue inspected at least once every 12 months as it may require cleaning.
8. Clean out excess ash from the oor of the rebox when required. Do not remove all the ash and in particular
leave any pieces of charcoal in the heater as they are good fuel.
9. If the glass door in your heater becomes dirty, your rewood is either green, wet or both. You may be closing the
air inlet down too soon after lighting or after adding new rewood.
To clean the glass, simply use some of the white ash in the rebox. Apply it with a damp cloth in a circular motion. Remove residue with a clean cloth or paper. Do not clean the glass when the heater is operating.
10. To clean the painted surface, simply dust with a soft duster and wipe over with a damp cotton cloth. Only clean
when the heater is cool.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR OPERATING YOUR KEMLAN
SLOW COMBUSTION WOOD BURNING HEATER
IMPORTANT:
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD ANY SOLVENTS SUCH AS METHYLATED SPIRITS, PETROL MINERAL
TURPENTINE ETC BE ALLOWED TO COME IN CONTACT WITH THE PAINTED SURFACE OF THE HEATER AS
DAMAGE TO THE FINISH WILL RESULT. IF AN ACCIDENT DOES OCCUR, SPRAY CAN PAINT IS AVAILABLE
FROM YOUR NEAREST KEMLAN DEALER.
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To get the best from your Kemlan heater it is essential that you use good rewood, and use it correctly May people do not understand the principle of
using a wood burning appliance and we suggest that it will be worth your while to study the following extract from a well known American publication.
PRINCIPLES OF COMBUSTION: HOW WOOD BURNS
Technically, wood does not burn. What burns is the volatiles and charcoal that are created. That is why wood will not catch on re immediately when
you put a match to it; it has to rst undergo the chemical changes that create the volatiles, and a match does not create enough heat to activate the
process. As kindling and paper evaporate the moisture in the wood, the wood absorbs heat. At a certain point, gases are given off and when these
volatiles reach 480 degrees F, or the “Flash point”, as it is called, they will burst into ame if sufcient oxygen is present. The volatiles give off more heat
than does charcoal, which is why a re with ames (which burn the volatiles) produces more heat than one that is all charcoal.
Since the volatiles are gases and since heat rises, taking the gases with it, it is very easy to create a situation in which most of the volatiles go up the
chimney almost as soon as they are produced. This is what happens with a roaring re and, to a lesser extent, with an open re. One of the reasons
(but only one) that a freestanding wood stove produces more heat than an open re is that the volatiles are contained within the rebox and are not so
quickly dissipated up the chimney. A stove that is bafed is merely one that has interior construction design to keep the volatiles in the rebox longer;
the longer they are in the rebox, the more completely they burn. The more completely they burn, the more heat is produced. It’s that simple.
Since the ames burn the volatiles and produce heat, the ideal situation is the longest possible ame path. As soon as wood burners understand this,
they tried to devise ways of making the ame path longer than in an ordinary open re. Even though the role of oxygen in combustion was not understood in Ben Franklin’s time, Franklin did realise the importance of more completely burned volatiles. His solution was to try to invent a downdraft stove
– one that sent the volatiles back down through the re – but he never succeeded in getting it to work. A downdraft goes against the nature of volatiles,
which is to rise. In more recent times, there have been some successful downdraft – or partial downdraft – stoves created and some of the replace
stoves and units utilise this principle. Ideally, it would be best if the volatiles could be redirected down through the re several times, until they were almost totally consumed. This would not only make the maximum use of the heat potential of the wood; it would reduce creosote build-up to almost zero.
Perhaps someday an ingenious inventor will design a unit that does this; so far no has been able to.
MOISTURE AND COMBUSTION
As we have seen, dry wood ignites faster and burns better – with higher heat production – than wet or green wood. The difference between the amount
of heat produced by dry wood and green wood is so great that a dry softwood of good grade will produce more heat than green hardwood. Green white
ash, for instance, is not as good a fuel as dry tamarack.
The reason for the superiority of dry wood is easy to understand. Heat cannot be produced until moisture has been driven off. Since even so-called
seasoned dry wood contains approximately 20 percent moisture, it takes time for any re to begin producing useable heat. Wet wood, which can have
a moisture content of over 100 percent (due to the way moisture is measured), will take that much longer to produce heat. Meanwhile, the re will
produce smoke and creosote and very little heat. This was brought sharply to my attention when I installed my rst wood heater. To my surprise and
delight, I found it comfortably heated eight rooms, where I had expected to heat only two or three. After some time, when I had someone helping me run
the re, I suddenly noticed that the house was chilly. We added more wood and adjusted the draft controls, but nothing we did seemed to help. It nally
occurred to me to check the woodpile. My friend had been getting green wood from a stack that was drying, instead of from the dry-wood stack. The
difference the green wood made was so dramatic I will never forget it.
HOW TO TEST WOOD FOR DRYNESS
There are two easy ways for even a novice to spot dry wood. Dry wood tends to “check”. Look at the log ends and you will see cracks radiating from
the centre of the log. If the logs have been split, the cracks will be harder to nd because wood tends to split along the cracks.
Another test for dry wood is the sound it makes when two logs are banged against each other. Green wood will make sort of a dull thud; dry wood
makes a nice crisp, sharp sound. Once you have heard the two, you will remember the difference.
FROM THE ABOVE EXTRACT SEVERAL FACTS BECOME APPARENT:
1. It is vital that your rewood be dry and seasoned.
2. A good hot re of kindling and smaller pieces of fuel must be established before adding larger logs.
3. The larger logs should be well alight before slowing down the combustion by adjusting the air intake.
4. A hot bed of coals needs to be maintained to ensure continued combustion in the rebox.
5. When new timber is added to the rebox the air control should be opened until the fuel is well alight before damping it down again. This will take
from 10 to 20 minutes.
6. When setting the controls for overnight burn you will need to experiment with the settings to suit your particular type of fuel. Very dense hardwood
requires more air to combust and over damping will result in charring and smoking causing the glass in the door to become dirty. The same will
apply with fuel which is not fully seasoned or is not dry enough. Kemlan have followed a policy since 1969 of checking on all complaints about
poor performance of their heaters and apart from a few instances of incorrect installation (mostly insufcient ue length) all problems have been
directly related to incorrect operation and/or poor fuel. We know you will experience many years of satisfaction from your heater if you follow the
above advice.
OPERATING HINTS
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1. Kemlan wood heaters carry a warranty on the 6mm rebox for a period of ten (10) years.
2. This warranty also covers other components of the heater for a period of one (1) year.
These components include the bafe plate, handle assembly and fan.
3. Kemlan’s warranty covers the wood heaters against defects in materials and manufacture.
4. THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER -
4.1 Failure to comply with manufacturer’s operation instructions.
4.2 Normal wear and tear or damage caused by incorrect installation.
4.3 Any form of rust and/or corrosion to the painted nish of the heater.
4.4 Damage to the glass in the door, if the damage is caused by impact or misuse.
4.5 The cost of collection and delivery of the wood heater and/or parts.
4.6 Damage caused by water ingress.
4.7 Cost of removal of defective heater or re-installation of replacement heater.
5. CLAIMS -
5.1 (i) Kemlan will provide a full replacement of the heater in the rst ve years after installation.
(ii) Replacement in the subsequent ve years (i.e. sixth to tenth year after installation will be on the
following basis.
Owner will pay twenty percent of purchase price if the claim is made in the sixth year and a further ten percent
per year in every subsequent year to a maximum of fty percent of the purchase price of the heater.
5.2 Replacement of heater subject to all conditions in section four of warranty.
5.3 Should any defects occur, contact the Kemlan distributor from whom you purchased the heater.
5.4 Under this warranty the defective parts will be repaired or replaced by Kemlan’s option, free of charge.
6. The replace installation must comply with the relevant local statutes, ordinances, regulations
and by-laws.
PLEASE COMPLETE AND RETAIN THIS SECTION FOR YOUR RECORDS
Purchased from: .......................................................................................................
Address: ....................................................................................................................
Date of Purchase: ......................................................................................................
WARRANTY
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