KEG KING
35L - All In One
Single Vessel Brewery
Introduction
There is nothing quite like all grain brewed beer. Making beer from extract is a great but when you taste
beer that is made from fresh grain it’s not hard to see why so many people are making the switch to all
grain brewing.
This all-in-one single vessel brewery is perfect for home brewers who are looking to get into all grain
brewing. Historically many home brewers in Australia have been apprehensive to get into all grain
brewing due to reasons such as:
1. It’s too expensive to setup a brewery
2. All grain brewing takes too much time
3. All grain brewing is too technical and complicated to get into
One of our main objectives with this brewery is to address these three issues. This brewery is very good
value for money, it’s also fast to heat up, use and clean up after you are done. It’s also simplifies the all
grain brewing process so even a complete novice can brew on this very simple system.
Features/Specifications
1. 2400 watts of power (1900 watt element + 500watt element) for fast heat up time.
2. LED Backlit Display
3. Complete stainless steel construction
4. 1/2inch BSP threaded stainless ball valve
5. Illuminated element rocker switches
6. Digital temperature control
7. Concealed elements making for easier cleaning
8. Malt pipe rack that is easy to use and clean
9. Included stainless steel immersion chiller
Instructions
STEP 1 – Fill The Malt Pipe
The malt pipe is the basket shown to the
right which is a cylindrical stainless steel
tube with a perforated base. The malt
pipe is equipped with small legs on the
bottom to raise the malt pipe slightly off
the base of the boiler where the elements
are.
In order to extract maximum sugars from
your grains it’s important that the grain is
first milled. Milling is best done by a 2
roller Maltmuncher Grain Mill (Keg King
Part 5441) and/or 3 Roller Mill (Keg King
Pert 7421). The grain should be milled to
the point to where the kernel has broken
open. The malt pipe can hold up to 9kg of grain but it’s significantly more comfortably if you keep the
grain to a limit of 8kg maximum. Typically 4kg of grain will be sufficient to make 30litres of beer at
about 4-5 % alcohol. Fill your milled grain into the Malt pipe.
Step 2 – Heat Up the Hot Liquor
Hot liquor is the term that brewers use for the water that you start mashing the grain with. In order to
start the enzymatic reaction whereby the starches in the grain are converted to sugars its important the
correct hot liquor temperature is reached prior to immersing the malt pipe into the water. Typically for
a 30L batch we would recommend that you use about 1520Litres of water depending on what your final gravity needs
to be and how much grain you have put in the malt pipe.
After filling water into the unit press the up and down arrow
to set the desired set temperature (show to left). Once the
desired set temperature is reached hit the set button to set
the temperature. Typically most recipes will require you to
heat the water up to 70-80C depending on the beer style, the
ratio of grain to water and also the ambient temperature of
the starting grain. There are various calculators online that
you can use to calculate the perfect hot liquor set temp but to
be honest it’s not important to stress to much about this as you can always add additional cold water or
boiled hot water to increase or decrease the temperature later anyway.
Step 3.1 – Mashing
Once the hot liquor (water) has been heated to the desired temperature place the malt pipe into the hot
liquid. Use a spoon to mix in the grain. It’s important that no “dough balls” of grain are left in the malt
pipe. Be sure to mix thoroughly in order to fully wet the grain. Once the grain is fully mixed with the
water start your timer. The mashing process will take about 60 minutes. During this process feel free to
taste the wort. You will probably notice toward the end of the
mashing process that the grain has already started to taste
quite sweet.
Step 3.2 – Temperature Adjustment
In order to get the most efficient enzymatic reaction to
happen in the mash tun it’s important that the correct
temperature is maintained. Typically mash temperatures
between 62 and 67C is idea. Mash temperature makes a big
difference to finished beer style. Lower mash temperatures
near 62C will result in lighter beer flavor. Low mash
temperatures may suit beers such as summer lagers or blonde
beers. High mash temperatures near 67C will result in fuller
bodied beers with more residual unfermentable sugars. Styles
such as IPAs and Stouts would typically suit a hotter mash
temperature. Temperatures can be adjusted in several ways.
Cold water or ice can be added to cool the mash if you have
overshot the temperature. Hot water can be added to
increase the temperature. You can also use the elements on
the unit to heat up the temperature. Typically only the gentle
500watt element is required to heat up the mash however for
faster movement of temperature the 1900 watt element can
be used. If you are using either/both of the elements during
the mashing process it’s a good idea to recirculate the wort.
This can be done by filling up a jug and pouring it back ontop
of the malt pipe. This will help to even out the temperature in
the whole malt pipe as opposed to getting a hot spot right at
the bottom where the element is.
Step 4 – Sparge
The sparging process basically is just a process where we use
water to rinse the remaining sugars from the grain.
In order to start the sparging process lift the malt pipe out of
the boiler. While lifting the malt pipe with one hand use the
other hand to insert the support that suspends the malt pipe.
(see images to the right).
Once the malt pipe is safely and firmly on the support it’s time
to start rinsing those valuable sugars from the grain. Sparging
can be done with hot water from your tap however to gain the
maximum amount of sugars from your grain it’s really best if
your sparging water is heated up to about 70-80C.
Temperatures below 70C will result in sugars being left
behind. Temperatures over 80C may result in extraction of unwanted tannins and astringency ending up
in your beer. Continue to sparge either until either:
1. The water draining out of the bottom of the malt pipe has reached a specific gravity as low as 1.010.
This shows that you have pretty much got all the sugars out of the grain.
2. Alternatively stop sparging once your boiler is full
3. Alternatively stop sparging once the wort in your boiler has reached the correct volume and specific
gravity.
Step 5 – Boil
After the sparging process has been completed it’s time to start boiling. We need to boil in order to
coagulate the proteins, sanitize the wort, isomerise the hops and also drive off DMS. Typically a boil
time of 60 minutes is ideal. During the boil it’s important to have a vigorous boil to drive off DMS. Over
the 60 minute boil period you can add your desired amount and type of hops. Plenty of recipes can be
found online or in various books. Hops are generally added to the boil at differing types throughout the
boil depending on what characteristics of the hops you are trying to extract. insert the immersion chiller
coil 5 minutes before the end of the boil to ensure that any bacteria on the outside of the cooling coil
has been killed.
Step 6 – Chill The Wort
It’s desirable to chill the wort as quickly as possible once
the boil has been completed.
We have included a stainless steel immersion chiller that
is packed with the brewery. This chiller is very easy to
use. It’s simply a matter of attaching a garden hose to
one end(it doesn’t matter which end) so cold water flows
into the coil and by the time the water exits it will be hot
because its drawing heat from the wort.
If you stir the wort while using the immersion chiller this
will greatly speed up the process and chill your wort much
faster.
Once your wort is down to the correct temperature
transfer to your cleaned and sanitized fermenter and pitch the yeast. Be sure not to pitch the yeast
before the wort has been completely chilled.
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