J-TECH Hobby-Fab OX Instructions Manual

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Intro:
Thank you for purchasing the Hobby-Fab OX kit. The OX is widely popular and can be found around the globe. If you run across a snag, feel free to send us a message or hop online; there are communities just for this machine. You can join the G+ OX community (https://plus.google.com/communities/110852928951643236736) where you will find a helpful, experienced group that uses this very machine.
The OX was first generated by Mark Carew. Our group soon picked up the design, cleaned it up slightly, and the end product is what you are about to build. Good luck with this project and we look forward to seeing the awesome things you will create!
The below instructions will assist you in building the Hobby-Fab OX CNC kit. Each step begins with a BOM, then guides you through that step. If something looks confusing, or a term doesn’t make sense, scroll a few photos up or down and the query will most likely become clear.
Note:
The BOM has been double-checked by our team. We suggest a full inventory by the builder prior to beginning the build as well but must warn, DO NOT open all boxes and dump all parts in a pile! This will make the build next to impossible to complete.
The extruded aluminum is cut to length. Pairs of the axis, i.e. both X gantry 20 x 60 and one 20 x 40 are cut together, surfaced together, and bundled together to be an exact fit. The most frequent comment we get comes from builders unbundling the entire kit and getting pieces and parts incorrectly assembled. We take extra precaution to ensure the kit goes together as smoothly as possible. Leaving the extruded aluminum bundled up and parts in their step number box until you reach that step, will ensure a smooth and quick build.
Shipping Damage – If there are any dents or dings in packaging please stop now and take pictures of the boxes. The most damaged item in shipping is the aluminum extrusions. We will not replace damaged extrusions if the boxes are thrown away and discarded prior to a notice being given about shipping damage.
Safety:
Use of a CNC can be dangerous. There is noise, electrical, respiratory, and other safety concerns. Please read about the use of a CNC machine and understand its purpose and the materials you will be working with prior to continuing the build and use of this machine.
Hobby-Fab, SMW3D, and its affiliates cannot bear any responsibility for damages or personal injury caused by the use of this machine. It is up to the end user to ensure all safety matters are addressed and proper use of this machine is understood. Have fun and be careful!
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Step 1
Z-axis:
The M5 x 30mm bolts are pre-installed in the clamps.
600W upgrade:
The 600w spindle upgrade is mounted in the same fashion. The builder will also find the 600w power supply in step one.
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Laser upgrade:
The spindle clamp with the M3 bolts installed will need to be the bottom clamp, see the end of this document for install.
Exploded View. M5 x 8 bolts go into Tee-nuts, M5 x 15 go into V-Slot.
Note here we are installing the black 90s on the inside, facing towards each other between the clamps, if this is difficult they can be installed on the outside (top and bottom) of the clamps.
1. Slide the clamps over the spindle motor (these are a tight fit, you can open them with slight hand pressure to install over
spindle).
2. The clamps should ride at the top and bottom of the spindle, the bottom clamp should be approximately 40mm from the
bottom of V-Slot extruded aluminum.
3. Loosely install the M5 x 30 bolt in the spindle clamps and tighten at the last step. Perform on a flat surface so both clamps
are oriented the same direction.
4. Slide Tee-nuts in V-Slot
5. Install M5 x 8mm bolts through black 90 brackets into tee-nuts in V-Slot loosely.
6. Install spindle clamps to black 90 brackets with M5 x 15mm bolts.
7. Once all is aligned, tighten M5 x 8mm, M5 x 15mm, and M5 x 30mm bolts.
Now we install the threaded rod plates.
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8. The smaller plate goes on the bottom, the bearing recesses (on the threaded rod plates) face each other. Install with 3 qty
(per side) self-tapping screws and leave loose. Note, we provide a screw driver, but the self-tapping screws are much easier to set with a drill motor.
9. Now that the self-tapping screw threads have been set, you will need to remove either the top threaded plate or the
bottom threaded plate for step 3. It is easier to set the threads before we do the final assembly, hence doing it here then removing them for the final assembly.
We are now completed with this step; the assembly can be set aside.
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Bearing recess
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Step 2:
X_Z-Axis gantry plate assembly:
Before we begin this step let us look at how to assemble a wheel assembly. Note the package comes with the bearings and shims loose. You will need to build the wheel kits. See here:
Bearing, shim, wheel, bearing. In some instances, the additional shim is required outside the wheel, the extra shim is not used in this build. Do not use both shims inside the wheel. If the additional shim is required, the build instructions will indicate where to put them.
After you build at least 6 qty wheel kits it is time to continue the X_Z axis build.
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The limit switch will face down. This is what will be considered the Z limit switch.
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1. Begin by installing M5 x 20mm bolts in the center two holes, and the smaller holes as shown here:
*NOTE: We added a Z limit switch during the writing of these instructions. The gantry plate has since been modified in shape. The
sharper corners face towards the bottom of the Z axis. The limit switch should be installed on the side of the plate that the bolt heads (not threads) are on. The images used will show the old profile of the plate in some instances, such as above.
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2. Next install 2 qty M5 nuts into the plastic ACME nut block. Note one side has cut outs for the nuts.
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3. Tighten the M5 x 20 bolts holding the black plastic ACME nut block on, snug, do not crush the plastic nut… it is possible!
The bolts need to be tight, not torqued.
4. Next install the spacer blocks (long black pieces) there are threaded holes that the M5x20 bolts will affix to as shown
above.
5. Afterwards slide the M5x45 bolts into the holes in the back of the plate, through the spacer blocks as seen here:
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6. Now we will install eccentric spacers on one spacer block and plain spacers on the other. Next install the thinner spacers
(3mm) on top of the eccentric and standard spacers. The eccentrics (later) will allow for us to remove slack from the drive. Before installing the eccentric spacers, note that one set of holes on the rear of the X gantry plate is larger than the other. Install the eccentrics on the larger hole set:
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7. Install the eccentrics with the cut-out (on the flange of the eccentric spacer) facing towards the outer edge of the plate.
8. Install the wheels and snug up the M5 nuts holding the wheels onto the M5 x 45mm bolts.
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Step 3
Complete X_Z gantry assembly
In this step, we will build the X_Z gantry assembly.
1. Begin by installing the ACME rod in the ACME nut block from step 2. (NOTE) The ACME rod is in bottom of the
12”x12”x12” square box that all the parts came in.
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2. Install a 688zz bearing and lock collar on each end. Reverse order shown below, lock collar goes on first.
3. Position the Z axis from step one (with one removed threaded rod plate) over the wheels and slide into place.
Be cautious of the tension between the wheels and the 20x80, if it is too tight make sure the eccentrics are properly placed.
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4. Next, with the screws loose on the threaded rod plate, we will align the bearings with the recesses in the threaded rod
plate.
5. Push the bearings into the recesses of the threaded rod plates, then tighten the threaded rod plates in place.
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6. Once the threaded rod plates are tightened down, lock the bearings in place with the lock collars. NOTE: you will need to
leave about 2mm of ACME hanging out of the bottom of the lower (smaller) threaded rod plate. The above pictures shows an exaggerated amount hanging out for display.
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7. Check to make sure there is little to no play when you turn the ACME by hand. Also check to make sure the
ACME does not bind when turning by hand. If it does either adjust the lock collars or threaded rod plates to remedy this.
8. Next install the 6.35mm x 8mm coupler on the ACME rod. This goes on the top, the side with the larger threaded rod
plate. Slide the coupler down on the ACME till it stops and tighten the lower set screw on the lock collar.
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9. Grab the NEMA 23 stepper motor install 3 qty M5 x 45mm bolts in any three holes, slide one each 20mm spacer and nine
mm spacer over each bolt.
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10. Now slide the stepper motor shaft into the coupler and run the three bolts into the matching holes in the threaded rod
plate.
11. Follow this with installing three qty M5 nuts and tightening the coupler onto the motor shaft.
Note: The spacers 20 and 9mm may be exchanged for 3 qty 1.5” spacers.
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Tighten the M5 nuts to secure the motor.
12. Recall the eccentric spacers installed on one of the spacer blocks above. It is now time to give these a turn and take the
side to side slack out of the Z axis. When installed we did so with the cutouts facing the outside of the plate, as seen here:
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Taking the 8mm combination wrench turn each eccentric 1/8 of a revolution of a turn at a time. The wheels will get closer to the 20x60x180 extrusion. Do the top eccentric, middle, bottom. Physically feel the play in the wheel. If there is a lot of play, i.e. you can turn the wheel freely do another 1/8 of a revolution turn. Repeat till all three wheels on the left side and right side of the 20x60x180 extrusion all slightly drag. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN, you can damage the wheel by tightening them too much. The wheels should not lock on the metal, just rub.
The X_Z gantry is now complete.
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Step 4
X gantry assembly
Note, again limit switches were added to the scope of the OX kit, some images below will not show the limit. The limit switch gets installed on the side of the head of the bolts as shown here:
Revision update:
In May of 2018 Hobby-Fab/SMW3D made a change to the motors and made wiring easier. The builder will notice the barrier blocks, motors, and limits in this step. The change removes the motor mounting hardware of M5 x 20s and M5 nuts as they are no longer needed. Four quantity M5x10 are now used. This applies to step five as well.
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