EURORACK V/mA
TEST 3 BUILD INSTRUCTIONS
Test 3 is available as either a stand-alone circuit board for use on your workbench, or a module which can
be installed in your rack.
The Test 3 DIY Kit contains everything needed to build a functional module meter: a circuit board with
SMD parts pre-soldered, and just a few through-hole parts to hand-solder yourself.
If you want to mount Test 3 as a module, you’ll also need the Test 3 Front Panel Kit, which includes the
front panel and various pieces of mechanical hardware.
For instructions on how to use Test 3 after building it, the User Manual can be found at:
https://joranalogue.com/test3/manual
CONTENTS
Check if your kit includes all parts listed below. If anything is missing, please contact your dealer or
support@joranalogue.com.
DO-IT-YOURSELF KIT
Test 3 circuit board
Electrical parts bag
o 1 LED display
o 6 LEDs
o 2 tactile switches
o 2 16-pin shrouded headers
16-to-16-pin Eurorack power cable
FRONT PANEL KIT
Test 3 aluminium front panel
Mechanical parts bag
o 6 LED spacers
o 4 metal spacers
o 4 M3 nyloc nuts
o 4 M3 countersunk screws
o 2 mm hex key
2 switch caps (in separate bag)
Mounting hardware bag
o 2 black M3 screws
o 2 black nylon washers
o 2.5 mm hex key
1
EURORACK V/mA
SOLDERING
Because Test 3 requires soldering just a handful of components, it’s a great starter kit if you’re just getting
into synth DIY. It will also help you to test and troubleshoot your future DIY projects.
Soldering is easy! Just keep the following things in mind:
If this is your first soldering project, ask a tech-savvy friend to assist you or visit a DIY soldering workshop
in your area. Also, many excellent soldering tutorials can be found online, such as this one by Dave
Jones from the EEVblog: https://youtu.be/fYz5nIHH0iY
Use a decent quality, temperature-controlled soldering station. These can be found very cheap.
Unregulated soldering irons which are plugged directly into the mains or gas soldering irons are not
suitable for electronics!
Use the biggest soldering iron tip you can. A bigger tip transfers the heat better, making soldering
quicker and easier. Chisel-shaped tips are preferred over conical tips.
1 mm tin/lead solder (Sn60Pb40) is recommended. Leaded solder is easier to use than lead-free solder,
and 1 mm is the ideal diameter for general through-hole soldering.
Clean your tip every few solder joints, using brass wool or a damp sponge. A dirty tip will not transfer
heat properly, making it hard to use.
When soldering a component, start by soldering one pin or two on opposite ends. Then check if the
part sits on the circuit board properly. If needed, you can still make adjustments by melting a solder
joint while applying pressure on the part, before soldering the rest of the pins.
The solder fumes do not contain lead, but are still not good for your health! Work in a well-ventilated
area. A solder fume extractor with filter is a good thing to have.
2
EURORACK V/mA
BUILDING TEST 3
Before commencing construction, decide if you’ll use the Front Panel Kit, as there are some
differences and it is not easy to upgrade later.
Continue to page 6 if you are building Test 3 with the front panel.
WITHOUT FRONT PANEL
The Test 3 circuit board already has all SMD parts pre-soldered, so you only need to solder the eleven
included through-hole parts. Apart from your soldering gear and flush side cutters, no additional tools are
required.
You will want to start with the physically lowest parts, which in this case are the six white LEDs. Insert
them all the way, and take care to solder them nice and straight. Also watch out for the polarity: the
longer lead is the positive side (anode). This pin should be next to the little plus sign on the circuit board,
which is always on the right. After soldering, clip the leads just above the solder joints. These are the only
leads that need to be clipped.
Next to solder are the two tactile switches. These simply snap in place and don’t have a particular
orientation.
3
Insert and solder the LED display. Take note of the orientation again: the decimal points go on the bottom.
EURORACK V/mA
Finally, place and solder the two 16-pin shrouded headers. Both should be placed on the top side of the
circuit board. Again, check the orientation: the slot goes on the right. If you insert the included power
cable, the red stripe should go on the bottom. Be careful not to bump into the electrolytic capacitors
(silver cans) during placement.
4