JoinTech Clincher Fence Machine, SmartFence Complete Instructions And Setup

F

ULLY

ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER

200

DETAILED FULL-COLOR

DRAWINGS AND PHOTOS,
P

LUS

N

UMEROUS SHOP TIPS

AND

TECHNIQUES.

SETUPS for CABINET MAKING OPERATIONS

•

Edge Jointing •Frames •Raised Panels

INCLUDES COLLECTION OF SIXTY,
16” long TEMPLATES and FULL SIZE
PLANS FOR MAKING:

•

Box joints •Double-Double Box joints

•

Half-Blind Dovetails •Double Dovetails

•

Through & Double Through Dovetails

•

Jointech’s exclusive Boxtails

TM

•

Plus 18 Scales for repetitive cutting
Cutting intervals range from

1

/

8”

up to

7

/

8”

.

Complete Instructions and Setup for
Clincher Fence Machine

TM

and SmartFence

®

.

Manufactured by:

Jointech, Inc.
P.O. Box 790727
San Antonio, TX 78279
Customer Svc : [phone]
Facsimile: [phone]
email:[e-mail]

MADE IN THE U.S.A.

CLINCHER

FENCE MACHINE.....................................................................................2

Templates and scales
Fence Machine Systems
Warranty

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES.........................................................................................3

SYSTEM SETUP and ASSEMBLY...............................................................................4

Mounting

CLINCHER

Mounting Fence
Dust Collection Attachment
Vertical Push Fixture assembly
X-Y Stop Block operation
Cutting Profile Inserts

EDGE JOINTING......... ................................................................................................6

SHAPING OPERATIONS .............................................................................................7

Frames
Raised Panels

MAKING THE PERFECT JOINT................................................................................10

Getting Started
Selecting the right Template for your project
Installing and using

CLINCHER

Templates

Centering for perfect symmetry - Using the

Rabbit

....................................11

Steps for centering

Determine Pin and Tail Cuts.......................................................................12

Template Alignment

BOX JOINTS..............................................................................................................13

Setting Depth of Cut for Box Joints

HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS..........................................................................................14

Setting Depth of Cut for all Dovetail Joints

THROUGH DOVETAILS.............................................................................................16

DOUBLE DOVETAILS................................................................................................18

DOUBLE-DOUBLE BOX JOINTS............................................................................... 20

BOXTAIL JOINTS.......................................................................................................22

THE MITER SPLINE JOINT....................................................................................... 24

SLIDING DOVETAILS.................................................................................................24

REPETITIVE SCALE TEMPLATES.............................................................................24

•

When using a power tool with

CLINCHER,

follow the safety instructions in the tool’s
instruction manual. Use any safety guards
required for their safe use. Remember that all
power tools are inherently dangerous. Make
sure that you thoroughly understand their
operation and their safety features before you
use them.

•

Always wear safety glasses and hearing
protection when operation of power tools.

• Always turn off power to any other tools prior to

any adjustment of

CLINCHER.

Allow a cutting
tool to come to a complete stop before
repositioning of fence, sliding section or profile
insert.

•

If

CLINCHER

is mounted to a moveable base,

always secure base to work surface by
clamping, screws, or otherwise fastened before
using.

•

Always tighten SmartFence sliding sections
clamping knobs before any cutting operation.

Avoid applying excessive force when clamping.
When using a profile insert, always securely
engage between both sliding sections.

• Always align center of SmartFence to center of

router and cutter. Never use a cutter larger
than 4” in diameter nor greater than 2” in height,
including any bearing.

•

Before making a cut, always make sure that the

CLINCHER

cam clamp is fully locked down and

machine setup is secure in place.

•

Whenever a cutting operation requires that your
hands come near or over a bit or blade,

ALWAYS USE A GOOD PUSH BLOCK or push
stick to protect your fingers.

• Before performing any cutting operation,

carefully think it through. Anticipate any
situations that can be potentially dangerous,
such as: grabbing, kickback, splintering, or
exposed fingers, and take steps to insure that
they don’t happen.

SSAAFFEETTYY -- RREEAADD AALLLL IINNSSTTRRUUCCTTIIOONNSS

Introduction

Setting Up

Cabinet Making
Operations

Joint Making
Operations

With Jointech leading the way, the method of router table woodworking and
joinery has become the most exciting and sought after means to perform
shaping and cutting operations with high precision. The Jointech Ultra­Precision Woodworking System which you have purchased will be the best
investment that you have made over any other tool in your shop. Far superi­or to any other in quality, workmanship and versatility, the accuracy that this
new tool brings to your woodworking shop is unprecedented.

The CabinetMaker’s System is capable of jointing, routing, rabbeting, dado­ing, making raised panels, and rail and stile frames. It can function as a saw
table fence, drill press positioner and much more. This one System will give
you the versatility needed to perform fine joinery and all cabinet-making
operations.

The Jointech Template Collection includes sixty, 16” long templates and
scales, plus step-by-step instructions to guide you through the use of the
templates to make box joints, half-blind dovetails, through dovetails, double
dovetails, double-double box joints, and the exotic Jointech BoxtailTM.Even
the novice, who perhaps has never made a simple dovetail or box joint, will
quickly be able to produce beautiful and intricate joinery in their projects.

Made entirely in San Antonio, Texas, Jointech’s American-made
Woodworking Systems have been met with enthusiastic approval of many
thousands of woodworkers, hobbyist and professional, as well as leading
experts in the field.

We thank you for choosing Jointech.

CLINCHER Fence Machine

CLINCHER Templates and Scales

JOINTECH warrants this product for five years from date of purchase against any defects that are due
to faulty material or workmanship. Please return the complete unit, transportation prepaid (proof of pur­chase may be required) for free replacement or repair at our option. This warranty does not apply to
accessories. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary
from state to state. Should you have any questions, contact Jointech, Incorporated.

HOME USE WARRANTY

(A FULL FIVE YEAR WARRANTY)

MICRO-ADJUST THUMBWHEEL

Each detent represents .001” of fence movement.
Decal indicates which direction fence will move
during rotation. After an adjustment, it’s scale sleeve
can be re-calibrated to Zero. Use thumbwheel only
when the cam-handle clamp is in the micro-adjust
position.

CAM-HANDLE CLAMP POSITIONS:

1) UPRIGHT - Carriage is released from leadscrew for full movement over its range.

2) 45 DEGREES - Position to make micro-adjustments with thumbwheel.

3) DOWN - Carriage is fully locked in place for a cutting operation.

ANTI-PARALLAX CURSOR

Visually align both top and bottom
hairlines to scale or template to
eliminate parallax.

CENTER FINDER

(RABBIT)

The

Rabbit

and TRU-Center Scale are used to find the
exact center of a board. Follow directions on page 11
to achieve joint symmetry using any of the Jointech
templates. Once the TRU-Center Scale is calibrated to
a given cutter or blade kerf, only the Rabbit is used to
find center regardless of board width.

T-SLOT

A 5/8” wide flat nut
or a 1/2” - 14 deg.
dovetailed block
combined with a
handle or thumb­screw can be
inserted into this
slot to make a
convenient carriage
handle and/or stop.

2

The

CLINCHER

Template Collection includes 48 joint-making templates,
9 dual scales for making repetitive cuts, infeed and outfeed fence scales and
a blank inch scale for custom use. They are made from a special, high­strength vinyl and will give many years of satisfactory use. The two printed
sheets comprising the 60 templates and scales are partially die cut and need
to be separated for insertion into the pockets provided for in this handbook.
Although they should separate easily by peeling apart, because of tolerances
in materials and manufacturing processes it may also be necessary to use a
sharp knife or razor blade.

The fit of a template or scale in a

CLINCHER

slot may become too loose
over time. If this occurs, make a mild kink in one or more places along its
length to add tension when replaced in slot. You cannot damage a template
or scale in doing this.

If your templates become dirty, simply wipe them with a damp cloth. DO
NOT attempt to clean the templates with alcohol or any other solvent as this
may damage the printing.

Fence Featherboard

Combination Featherboard and Stock Pusher locks into
dovetail on all Jointech fences. Holds workpiece firmly
down against table surface for consistent cuts.
Prevents kickback and keeps fingers safely away from
cutting tool. Reversible feathers for shaper or band
saw use.

Cat. No. FB-1

SmartFence Profile Inserts

6-pack of blank inserts for SmartFence. Packaged in a
sturdy hardwood case with plexiglass cover for
convenient storage. Inser ts cut to the exact profile of
bit give smoother and safer cutting operations.

Cat. No. SF-6PI

Fence Panel Raiser

Panel Raiser makes vertical panel raising safer and
easier. It adapts quickly to Smar tFence to support
large panels for all vertical panel raising operations. Kit
includes support brackets and hardware.

Cat. No. SF-P24 (fits 24” SmartFence)
Cat. No. SF-P32 (fits 32” SmartFence)

Table Featherboard Kit

Table featherboard kit includes two adjustable feather
assemblies, a dovetailed oak runner board and two
clamps to mount to router table top. Feathers can be
positioned to hold workpiece against both infeed and
outfeed faces of fence for consistent cuts. Prevents
kickback and keeps fingers safely away from cutting
tool. Feathers can be reversed for shaper or band saw.

Cat. No. FB-24 (for 24” wide tables)
Cat. No. FB-32 (for 32” wide tables)

Spline Jig

The dovetail spline joint is the simplest way to reinforce
a mitered corner. Jointech’s Spline Jig will allow you
to easily create beautiful spline joints, from a small
jewelry box to a large chest. Making the splines are a
breeze using your micro-adjustable

CLINCHER

.For

use on both router table and table saw.

The 60 minute
Spline Jig Video which is included shows how to
do it all plus gives ideas for projects.

Cat. No. SJ-1

Woodworker’s Notebook

Put your Jointech System to use right away! Book
includes over 300 photos and illustrations and
complete plans for twelve original and

practical

projects, including the Jointech Routing Center and
Sliding Crosscut Saw Table with Ver tical Miter Fixture.
Many tips and techniques in general woodworking are
also included such as stock preparation, making
frames and panels, drawer construction, joinery and
several plans for useful jigs and fixtures.

Cat. No.WN-12

Jointech Project Videos

This series of project videos from Jointech give visual instructions
to take you through every operation to build a nice project using
your Jointech System. These full-length videos cover tool
selection, material preparation, resawing, table saw setups, router
setups for jointing and joinery, inlays, rabbeting, sanding, gluing
up, finishing and more. After a methodical, step-by-step
explanation, a final review is made to give you confidence to
begin the project.

Featuring Master Woodworker, Jay Hilgeford

Jay Hilgeford has been a woodwork instructor and teacher for 16 years. He
is a technical advisor and contributor to Hands-On magazine, co-designer
of corporate-sponsored Master Wood-worker Program, technical advisor on
the DIY television series on Woodworking, and recipient of Instructor of the
Year award in 1986. Not only a master craftsman, Hilgeford is a master
teacher. While his style is relaxed and informal, he conveys complex
instructions with enthusiasm, precision, and clarity.

Making Decorative Boxes

Double dovetails are featured on the corner joints of this
beautiful yet functional box. This decorative box will
make a beautiful jewelry case or storage chest for any of
your treasured items.

(VHS 120 min)

Cat. No. JPVID-1

Jointech Routing Center

This beauty speaks for itself! It will support your
Jointech System and provide storage for all your
Jointech accessories. Video covers the complete
construction of the router cabinet featured in the
Jointech Woodworker’s Notebook. Any woodworker
would be proud to have this project in their shop.

(VHS 126 min)

Cat No. JPVID-4

Making a Pendulum Clock

This beautiful pendulum clock will go just about
anywhere in your home - the mantle, table or mount on
the wall. The case features box joints and the drawer is
dovetailed and all done with your Jointech System.

(VHS 99 min)

Cat. No. JPVID-2

Shaker Style Video/CD Cabinet

The CD/Video tape cabinet is not only good looking, but
it’s functional too! In this video you will learn just how
easy through dovetails can be made with the Jointech
System. Also covered is

raised panel door

construction.

(VHS 83 min)

Cat. No. JPVID-3

Making a Display Table

This elegant, yet simple to make display table will look
nice in any room of your home. The video covers such
topics as mortise and tenon construction, tapering legs
on a jointer, decorative edge treatments, and a simple jig
for crosscutting wide panels.

(VHS 80 min)

Cat No. JPVID-5

Making a Humidor

A handsome home for fine cigars. What better way to
protect your investment than this beautiful humidor.
Featured are spline dovetails made with the Jointech
spline jig (or plans found in WN-12), as well as many
other helpful woodworking tips and tricks.

(VHS 98 min)

Cat No. JPVID-6

3

DISCONTINUED

DISCONTINUED

Fasten the

CLINCHER

machine directly to your worktop surface or to a
movable base using the wood screws and washers provided. A movable base
should be 1/

2”

to

3

/

4”

thick (

1

/

2”

maximum when using Joinery Fence), 8 - 10
inches wide and about as long as your top is wide if you plan to use C-clamps.
A slotted baseboard with carriage bolts and clamping knobs is easier to use
and provides a more finished appearance to your setup. Regardless of method,
the

CLINCHER

must be mounted to an absolutely flat surface for optimum
performance and to prevent binding of carriage during movement. Additionally,
the fence mounting end of machine must remain parallel to table surface over
its entire range to prevent binding of fence against table surface. Check each
corner before tightening screws and add shims as necessary to achieve this
important first step. Check carriage movement and parallelism after tightening
screws.

Mounting Clincher

Fasteners Supplied

4 ea. - #10 x 3/4”

wood screws

4 ea. - #10 flat washer

1. Adhere an adhesive-backed nylon glide piece to bottom surface of fence at

each end. Position them so that they contact the table surface near its outer
edges;

For Joinery Fence, cut the glide pieces into narrow
strips and place only on rear edges of fence.

For SmartFence, cut into four short pieces and place
into the front and back shallow slots on bottom of fence.

2. Attach fence to the

CLINCHER

fence mounting plate using the two 1/4-20
machine screws, flat washers and heavy hex nuts provided. Insert the two
nuts into the appropriate T-slot and slide toward center. (On SmartFence,
you may need to temporarily remove the two small fence-section clamping
knobs from one side.)

3. With the

CLINCHER

fence machine securely mounted in place, align the
exact center of fence to the center of your router, insert screws with washers
through fence mounting plate to engage nuts and tighten. Check for
squareness of fence face to your table top. (With the SmartFence, you want
the square to touch the center of the black split sections since they protrude
out from the main fence by .005” - .010”.) It may be necessary to use shims
between machine and fence to achieve this one-time setup.You can use
adhesive-backed tape as shim stock adhering it to the fence mounting plate.
Move the

CLINCHER

to the center of its range before final tightening of

screws.

4. Move

CLINCHER

back and forth over its entire range to check for a smooth
travel without lifting or binding. Any dragging or binding over all or part of
the range may be a indication that the machine was not mounted level and
true or that there is a slight unevenness or twist in the table’s surface. This
condition can be corrected by one of two ways;

a) At the center of the

CLINCHER’S

range, loosen fence fastening
hardware and temporarily place a thin shim under each fence
end under glide strip (or under the side that binds) to slightly
raise fence.

Re-tighten screws, remove shim and check movement again.
Repeat with a thicker shim and/or at different fence positions if
necessary.

b) Reduce gib tension on

CLINCHER.

The two outer #10-32
socket cap screws on the base at back of machine determine
the freedom of

CLINCHER

movement in the unclamped state.
Tightening of these two screws will restrict movement while a
v

er

y

slight

loosening of each will allow a more free movement
and alleviate binding of the fence. (Loosening of these gib
adjustment screws will not affect the performance during
micro-adjust or clamping force in the fully locked position of
cam handle. However, cutting SmartFence profile inserts
becomes more of a challenge when the fence has excessive
side-to-side play in its micro-adjust or unlocked position).

Fasteners Supplied

1 ea. Nylon glide strip, 21/2”

long

2 ea. 1/4-20 x 1/2”

machine screw

2 ea.1/4”

flat washer

2 ea. 1/4-20 nut, heavy hex

Mounting Fence

4

IMPOR

T

ANT

NOTE:

It is VERY IMPORTANT that you follow the above steps to minimize friction in your final fence setup. When you place the
Cam-handle in its micro-adjust or fully locked position, you are engaging the 1/32”threads of a brass quarter-nut to the
stainless steel lead screw. F

or the threads to properly engage, the entire carriage setup with fence accessories (including
attached workpieces to VPF) must be able to move as much as 1/64”,orhalf that of the thread pitch.This engagement will
take place if you have followed the procedure above. However, if there is excessive friction in your system due to binding of
the fence or carriage, then it is possible that the threads may not fully engage and mesh together.

Therefore, take all the initial steps necessary to establish your fence machine setup to have the least amount of friction
possible. To insure that you achieve proper thread engagement it is also suggested that you visually check each setting by
carefully observing that the cursor hairlines are coincident to every template cut line or scale marks in the micro-adjust
position and after locking the cam handle. If you do not get proper engagement in the micro-adjust position, simply nudge the
carriage left or right with your hand.

Nylon Glide

Nylon Glides

1/4-20 nut

1/4-20 screw

flat washer

Gib Adjustment Screws

Joinery Fence

SmartFence

IN

IN

SYSTEM SETUP and ASSEM BLY

The vacuum port on the SmartFence is the size of a standard 11/4”

P.V.C. pipe. When a 11/4”

fitting

such as an elbow is attached, the O.D. is 2 inches which will accommodate most 2”, 21/4”

and 21/2”
hoses with hose clamps. If a larger O.D. is desired or required simply use PVC bushings and
fittings to increase the final O.D. size. For a more perfect fit to a non-standard hose duct tape may
be used to build up its outside diameter. P.V.C. fittings are available in most hardware stores and
home improvement centers.

Notes:

1. A standard shop vac should have sufficient vacuum for all SmartFence operations.

2. Vacuum MUST be used continuously when doing edge work to prevent chip buildup

within fence.

3. Tapered design of vacuum port on fence will provide a snug fit with only light
pressure applied when connecting hose fitting.

Dust Collection Attachment

The black anodized aluminum face plate is attached to the VPF frame with the four drywall
screws. Start all four screws through the plate and into the pilot holes in frame assembly.
Tighten evenly until snug.

Insert the two 1/4-20 nylon thumbscrews into the threaded holes located at the top inside
frame adjacent to the dovetail runner. Install the VPF onto the fence. Adjust thumbscrews
until both just touch fence surface to remove side-to-side play of fixture. Over tensioning will
cause binding and may lift fixture entirely off table.

Check for squareness of fixture from table surface and from face of fence. If necessar y, use
adhesive-backed tape as shim stock between frame and face plate to achieve squareness of
fixture.

Vertical Push Fixture

F

asteners Supplied

4 ea. - #6 x 11/

4”

drywall screw

2 ea. - 1/4-20 x 1” nylon thumbscrew

The X - Y stop block is
adjustable both vertically and
horizontally. Two scales are
provided for accurate setting of
the stop to limit the length of a
cut at a precise distance from
either edge or center of a cutter.
They can be found in the
template set immediately after
No. 57. The scales are installed
in the top of the fence next to
the dovetail slot. Cut off any
excess after their installation
into fence.

The steps shown here
calibrate the outfeed scale to
the front cutting edge of bit.

1. Orient bit cutting edges to run parallel with
fence.

2. Insert stop block on infeed side of fence.
Lower the sliding vertical section and slide
stop forward on fence until its front edge
just contacts the outer cutting edge of bit.
Temporarily tighten top thumbscrew..

3. Slide outfeed scale under stop block and
align its Zero to the front

edge of stop block.

4. Loosen top thumbscrew. Raise vertical
section and slide stop block forward on
fence until centered over bit. Lower the
vertical section to allow a small clearance
between bottom edge and top of bit.
Securely lock in place with side
thumbscrew.

5. Now set the desired length of cut by sliding
the stop block forward and reading the scale
at the bac

k

edge of stop.

Cutting SmartFence Profile Inserts

GENERAL INFORMATION

1. Profile inserts do

not

have to be used. Also,
they do not offer any benefit in joinery. However,
they do add safety and improve cutting
performance for most cutters. Inserts cannot

be
used for jointing or shaping operations whenever
fences are offset.

2. Always align centerlines of inser t and fence to
center of router.

3. Ne

v

er

turn on router when cutter is within
profile of insert without first manually turning
cutter to insure clearance.

4. To remove insert, loosen infeed sliding section
and pull apart. If necessar y, use a slot blade
screwdriver to pry apart. Be careful not to
damage or nick sliding section.

5. Once fence is centered to cutter, if you do not
loosen both sections simultaneously, inserts
will always remain centered to router.

6. Certain intricate cutter profiles may cause slight
chipping of insert when initially being cut. This
can be prevented by clamping a scrap board on
fence to bridge insert and cutting through both.

7. With blank inser t installed and centered in
SmartFence, your

CLINCHER

machine is moved
forward and into running cutter until profile has
been completely cut through. Profile inserts can
also be cut on a scroll saw or band saw.

SETUP FOR CUTTING

1. Move entire

CLINCHER

setup as close to cutter
as possible. Align centerlines of insert and fence
to center of cutter and clamp in place.

2. Remove insert from SmartFence. Using

CLINCHER

, move fence forward to a position
where cutter would have profiled the insert
completely through.

3. Clamp a stop block on table top in front of fence
at this position to limit length of travel to protect
inside rear of fence body from damage.

4. Move fence back and re-install blank insert. You
are now ready to make your cut.

CUTTERS WITHOUT BEARINGS

1. First deter mine the precise height of cutter

through trial and error. This should be done with
insert removed and each sliding section closed to
within

1

/8

”

of cutter.

2. Position fence close to cutter and turn on router
and dust collection system.

3. With

CLINCHER

cam handle in the micro-adjust
position, use its thumbwheel to advance fence
until cutter passes completely through insert.

4. Unlock

CLINCHER

cam handle. Make several
passes through insert while gently pushing and
pulling fence laterally to slightly enlarge opening.

This will make it easier to use in future setups.

CUTTERS WITH BEARINGS

1. Without an insert, first determine the height of cutter

through trial and error. Measure this height
including bearing and threaded stud. Save your
profiled workpiece for a later setup.

2. Remove cutter from router and install a straight bit
having same diameter as the rub-collar bearing on
the cutter. Set approximately

1

/16”

higher than your
measurement. Note; A straight bit having a smaller
diameter than bearing may be used by making
offsetting passes to compensate for the difference.

3. Replace blank insert. Loosen both infeed and
outfeed sliding sections and shift the insert to left

of

fence centerline by approximately

1

/

64”

. Secure in

place.

4. Cut through insert with straight bit.

5. Shift insert

1

/64”

to the right side of fence centerline
and cut through insert again to widen the opening.
This procedure should give about

1

/32”

clearance

around bearing.

6. Realign center of insert to center of fence so that
cutter bearing will be centered to opening.

7. Remove straight bit and replace your cutter. Set to
height established in step 1 by using your scrap
workpiece made during your trial and error setup.

8. Make the final cut of insert with cutter.

9. Using a straight edge, micro-adjust

CLINCHER

to
align bearing flush to face of fence insert for your
final setup.

5

11/4”PVC elbow

2” O.D.

1

1

/

2”

PVC elbow

Female Bushing

2

3

/4”O.D.

X-Y Stop Block & Fence Scales

EDGE JOINTING

Edge jointing is the process of creating a straight, true and square edge on a board in
order that two or more boards can be joined together. A jointed edge will not make
the sides of a board parallel. To do that, joint one edge of the board then using that
edge as a reference (against the saw fence) rip saw the board to get a parallel edge.
After sawing, joint the sawn edge taking a slight cut (

1

/64"

) to straighten its edge.

Using the SmartFence, pieces as small as 6" long x

1

/

8"

thick can be jointed using as

small as a

1

/

4"

diameter straight cutting bit. This can be done safely because you can
use a small cutter and a very narrow gap in the fence. However, you can use a cutter
as large as 1" in diameter and 2" cutting length. For most work on 3/4" boards use a

1

/

2"

x 1" long cutter.

1

/

2"

shank is a must to keep chatter to a minimum. A

1

/

2"

diame­ter, long-fluted upcut spiral is suggested for general use. Use a guard to cover the
exposed bit and the fence gap above the board. Always cut from right to left with the
cutter rotating into the wood. Whenever possible cut with the grain of the wood. If
that is not possible, slow the router speed down and take shallow cuts. Rate of feed
is important. If you feed too fast you get a wavy surface and if you feed too slow you
will burn the wood. Keep pressure down and keep the piece against the fence, first
the infeed side then transfer the pressure to the outfeed side as the piece passes the
cutter. Use of featherboards will help regulate this pressure against fence and make
this operation safer by keeping fingers further away from cutter.

1. Install a carbide straight bit in router.

2. Remove profile insert from fence and slide both fence sections close to the

cutter leaving 1/8"

to 1/4"

on each side.

3. Loosen both clamping knobs (3-4 turns) on outfeed section and push knobs
into back of fence (see illustration). This will disengage indexer rods from
keyways on fence body and allow them to be rotated.

4. Tur n both indexer rods to adjust to the desired offset. Each number from 1 to
7 viewed through the windows represents fence offsets in 1/64ths inch. For
example, 4 is an offset of 4/64"

or 1/16"

. Once set, push sliding section toward

fence body and re-tighten clamping knobs. Do not over tighten.

Note: Both indexers must be set to the same number to maintain

squareness of fence face.

5. Refer to illustration. Rotate the router bit so that its cutting edges are oriented

east and west relative to fence. Place a square or straight edge against the
outfeed side of fence to overlap the cutting edge of bit.

6. Adjust position of SmartFence by using the micro-adjust thumbwheel on
CLINCHER to align cutting edge of bit to the offset (Outfeed) side of fence.

7. Using scrap pieces for test, joint an edge for final determination of your fence

setting and readjust as necessary;

* If your leading (jointed) edge of board catches the corner edge of

outfeed section, your bit is not out far enough. Micro-adjust fence back.

* If your board is slightly concave over its length, the cutter is too far out

and not aligned to outfeed section.

* If your board is slightly convex over its length, it may mean that too

much pressure was applied against fence when passing into and/or
away from the cutter.

TIP

For general use in jointing operations, set up the SmartFence as follows; Set the
outfeed section indexer rods to 7 and the infeed side to 6 and align fence to cutter as
above. The infeed section then can be adjusted inward as needed to remove more
material in one pass without any need of recalibrating fence setting.

6

Set outfeed to “7”

Set infeed to “6”

CABINET MAKING OPERATIONS

SHAPING OPERATIONS

Shaping operations using cutters such as glue joint, tongue & groove, lock-wedge and similar bits which remove
stock from entire edge of workpiece are easily accomplished by using the same setup procedure as for edge
jointing above.

The frames discussed here will be wood panel frames or glass frames for doors rather than picture frames.The
most basic and easiest frame to make is the mortise and tenon while the decorative coped molded rails require
special rail and stile cutters. Any dimensions shown in this section are to get a sense of propor tion and are not
intended to be a limit for design purposes.

Mortise and Tenon

The mortise and tenon is normally constr ucted with rails and stiles of the
same thickness for simplicity. Start by planing all the pieces to the same
thickness, or cut the pieces from the same board. Mark the front face of
each piece (rail & stile). For frames with a mortise groove of less than 1/4"
cut the groove with a slot cutter in the router with the pieces laying flat on
the table. Use the Fence Featherboard to keep the piece down on the table
and the table mounted Featherboard to keep the piece against the fence.
If you use an undersized cutter and pass the piece through the cutter two
times turning the piece over between cuts, you can be assured that the
groove will be in the exact center of the piece. If the groove is made from
one side only, be sure to orient the pieces with the side marked for the face
either up or down for all the pieces.Wider grooves can be cut using straight
bits, preferably spiral upcut bits.

Mortises of any width can be cut on the table using multiple passes with the
saw blade or a dado blade. The CLINCHER can be set up as a saw fence to
control the width of the cut with absolute accuracy.

Regardless of the method chosen for cutting the mortise groove, all of the
rails and stiles for a given frame assembly should be cut on the same setup.

Cut the pieces to be used as stiles to a length about

1

/8"

longer than the
required finish length. Cut the rails to the required length between the
finished stiles, plus twice the depth of one mortise plus 1/32"

.

The next step is to cut the tenons on the rail ends. The tenons can be cut on
a table saw or router table. If using the router with a straight cutter, use the
cope cutting guide (see Jointech W oodworker's Notebook, SECT . III) to
support the rails. Use a piece of scrap cut from the pieces with the mor tise
cut. Using the scrap piece and trial and error make a series of cuts about

1

/

4"

wide, raising the router bit slightly each time until the tenon will just fit
into the mortise. With the height of the bit established move the fence and
make cuts until you are within approximately 1/32"

from the full length of the
tenon. Use the CLINCHER Micro-Adjust to move the fence and make cuts
until the tenon is exactly the same length as the mortise depth. Save this
scrap as a template for future set ups. Cut the tenons on both ends of each
rail.

Frames

COPE CUTTING GUIDE

7

Mortise

Cheek

Tenon

CABINET MAKING OPERATIONS

Coped Rail and Stile

In addition to being more decorative than the mortise and tenon frame, the
coped molded rails offer increased glue area. Preparing the stock for use
with rail and stile cutters is the same as for the mortise and tenon frames.
This style of frame is often referred to as cope and stick.

The router cutters come in three types; Matched 2-pc. stile & rail sets,
Reversible Assembly, and Stacked Assembly. Any type will do an equally
good job, but with the combination bits the setup must be changed to make
the cope cuts, and this creates more room for error.

Instructions for assembling the combination bits will accompany any
manufacturers sets.The instructions will normally include the height to set
the bit. The depth of cut for all the bits with bearings is

3

/

8"

. This is the

dimension to be used to determine the length of stock for the rails.
Set up the router table with the bit for cutting the stile cuts, either

combination or solid bit, and a zero clearance insert in SmartFence. Use
featherboards as described for mortise and tenon frames.

Cut the prepared boards to their appropriate lengths. Make the stile cut in a
piece of scrap cut from the prepared wood. Make the stile cuts for all the
pieces, both rail and stile.

Disassemble and reassemble the bit to the cope configuration or change the
solid bit. Use the piece of scrap to set the bit height and cut a new zero
clearance insert.

Use the cope cutting guide with a backup piece and make a cope cut in the
scrap piece. Check the fit of the scrap cope in a stile. If the fit is
acceptable, make the cope cuts in the rail ends.

Until the advent of the large horsepower/variable speed routers, raised
panels were made by table saw, shaper or by hand with a plane. There is
now a large selection of router bits, horizontal and vertical, to choose from.
A 3-1/2 horsepower router can easily turn a 31/2"

diameter bit and the speed
can be slowed down to make an acceptable cut. The router should be run at
approximately 12,000 rpm when using the large router bits. For safety, stay
away from the 1/4"

diameter shank large diameter router bits.

Use of the large panel-raising bits will require the use of a router table insert
with a large diameter hole. Because of the large bit and the large opening in
the table insert, never make test cuts on small scraps of wood. Length of
test pieces should be more than twice the hole diameter. Always use push
blocks. Featherboards should always be used to hold stock down to the
table surface or against the fence as applicable when making panels with a
router. When making panels on the table saw a vertical fixture such as a
tenoning jig can be purchased or made (see VERTICAL MITER FIXTURE,
Jointech W oodworker's Notebook, SECT III). Stock preparation for all the
panels is the same.

There are three basic shapes for the raised panels,

STRAIGHT, ROMAN

OGEE

and

COVE

. There are horizontal and vertical bits in these shapes
and combinations of them are available from various manufacturers. All are
available with 1/

2"

diameter shanks.

PANEL FRAME

Raised Panels

8

2”

3/8”

PANEL

STILE

1/4” typ.

Remove this area

to install glass.

PANEL

STILE

CABINET MAKING OPERATIONS

Making Panels with Horizontal Bits

Install a table insert with a hole large enough to clear the largest bit you will
be using (about 35/8"

diameter). Install the router bit in the router and set the

bit height to make a panel with a 1/4"

lip (standard for most rail and stile bits ­make lip to match groove). Install a new profile insert in the SmartFence and
cut the clearance for the router bit. Install a featherboard on the fence to hold
the piece down.

With a piece of scrap material of the same thickness as the panel and more
than twice as long as the clearance hole diameter make a trial cut. Use a
rubber faced push block to hold and move the piece. Test fit the panel lip in
the rail groove for fit. The lip should fit snug enough to install and provide for
wood movement. If the fit is satisfactory you are ready to cut the panels. If
not, make a bit height adjustment and make another test cut. Save the final
test piece for future setups.

Never be in a hurry when working in your shop; it only causes mistakes.
Make the panels in three cuts. The third cut removes the last

1

/32"

of
material while the first two take a little less than one half the material each
pass. This method gives a nice final finish that requires very little sanding
and provides a little margin to correct any minor mistakes as you go. No
matter how careful you proceed it is very easy to burn the surface or to
wiggle the piece slightly as you pass it over the bit. The deeper the cut the
easier it is to make these mistakes.

Use the scrap setup piece to set the bit height to get the final height. Star t
each series of cuts on every panel on an end grain side to avoid tearout.

Horizontal raised panel bits are also available with an undercutter bit to
relieve the back side of the panel and produce flush fronts.

Making Panels with
Vertical Bits

Setup for using the vertical cutting bits is completely different than for the
horizontal bits.The bits are 11/

8"

in diameter and do not require the large
table opening that the horizontal bits do. With the smaller diameter bits a
lower horsepower router can be used.You should have no problem with a
1-1/2 horsepower router but a

1

/

2

" diameter collet is a must.
To suppor t the panels a tall fence is required. The SmartFence and

FenceRaiser kit are ideal for this purpose. The FenceRaiser panel is easy
to install on the fence and its design permits use of a profile insert. After
assembling the FenceRaiser to the SmartFence, check the fence to the
table for squareness. Add shims between the raiser brackets and fence if
necessary.

For safety and ease of making the cuts, a horizontal table mounted
featherboard should be installed. Use two feather assemblies, one on the
infeed and one on the outfeed sides of the bit. Mount the featherboard
runner support on a spacer board of approximately 1

1

/

2"

thickness to place
the contact area of the featherboards above the cut. This will keep the panel
flat against the fence surface. Use a push device that will keep the panel
upright and square to the table surface (see VERTICAL PANEL PUSHER,
Jointech W oodworker's Notebook, SECT III).

Zero the fence to the outside of the maximum diameter of the cutter. With a
piece of scrap material of the same thickness as the panel make test cuts
moving the fence 1/8"

at a time until the desired cutting depth is achieved.
The depth of cut should be such that the lip of the raised panel fits snugly
into the groove of the stile. When this depth is deter mined by the test cut,
adjust the CLINCHER Inch Scale to set the zero (or any reference point)
under the cursor. Save the test piece for future setups.

To make the raised panels, plan to make the cuts in three passes, leaving
about

1

/

32"

for the third cut which will be made at the zero index. Always
start each series of cuts for each panel on a cross grain side to minimize
tearout.

HORIZONTAL CUTTING BITS

HORIZONTAL ROUTER SETUP

VERTICAL CUTTING BIT

9

OGEE FILLET

COVE

STRAIGHT

Selecting the right Template for your Project

Set up your CLINCHER and fence or CabinetMaker's System as described
earlier. All of the instructions for making joints with the CLINCHER use the

true-center zero

method which means that all fence settings are referenced
from the center of the router bit. Therefore, all cut lines on all CLINCHER
templates represent the exact center of the router bit.

Use high quality router bits for your joinery. The better bits will nor mally be
made to tighter tolerances and will cut cleaner. Diameter tolerance is VERY
critical when making box joints.

Getting Started

Templates slide into one of the auxiliar y slots on CLINCHER carr iage.
Carefully insert the selected template into slot at right end of CLINCHER.
Keep fingers close to machine end as you slide in template to prevent
bending or kinking. If you initially have difficulty inserting the template into a
slot, gently bow it between your fingers along its length. Once in the slot you
can move the template with finger pressure on its top. Its exact position will
be determined during the centering operation for symmetry.

Installing Clincher Templates

Using Clincher Templates

Once installed, making any joint is simply a matter of setting CLINCHER to
the pre-marked templates lines and making the cut. Templates for conven­tional (non-inlay) dovetail and box joints use two series of pre-marked lines
for cuts; RED solid lines and BLACK dashed lines. The double-dovetail
patterns have four series of pre-marked lines while the double box joint and
the Boxtail™ patterns have six series of lines on one template. Except for
the 3/

8"

Boxtail which requires two templates to complete its series of cuts,

Half Lines

(RED and BLACK, upper and lower) represent settings for making

the center (or inlay) sections in these decorative joints. The series of RED

or BLACK cut lines to use for the Pins and Tails can only be determined

by following the procedure in the next section

“Determine Pin and Tail

Cuts”

, on page 12.

The variably spaced and double inlay patterns which require cuts wider than
the router bit are accomplished by making successive passes with the cutter.
This is accomplished using side-by-side cut lines on these templates

Yellow diamonds on some templates are alignment marks which are used to
center your workpiece to achieve symmetry.

MAKING THE PERFECT JOINT

Once you have selected your project and the stock thickness has been
determined, select the type of joint that you want. Usually the design and
scale of your project, including the stock thickness and board widths to be
joined, will dictate the appropriate size router bit and type of joint to use.
For example, a small jewelry box would look better with small joints, perhaps
decorative, while a blanket chest made with much larger joints would have a
better appearance. Narrow workpieces would usually call for an equally
spaced pattern while with wide boards, variably spaced patterns might make
a better appearing joint. Each template in this book has a corresponding set
of full size plans for the joint which it produces to help you make your
selection. Each plan will show a diagram of the template, the joint that it will
make, plus other information such as pattern spacing, router bit diameter,

approximate settings for depth of cut, wall thickness of double-inlay patterns
and other notes to successfully complete the joint. Also listed is the metr ic
equivalent for all bit diameters which are available internationally. It is
suggested that you refer to the plan page before making final selection
because not all board widths may work well with your desired pattern. You
may have to revise your board width or change your template selection.

The decorative nature of double-inlay joints requires that certain board widths
be used in order to produce a finished joint that is both visually pleasing and
structurally sound. Unlike conventional joint patterns, the assignment of
template cut lines for all cuts have been predetermined for these board
widths. Char ts on their respective plan pages will aid in selecting the board
width and corresponding symmetry mark for template alignment.

Full length cut lines used
for Pin and Tail cuts.

Side-by-side cut lines create
a cut wider than router bit.

Half lines used for making
center section cuts for
double inlay joints.

Upper symmetry diamond
(alignment mark).

Lower symmetry diamond
(alignment mark).

10

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

1. Zero the fence: Install the router bit to be used for your project and

orient its outer cutting edge toward the fence. Move CLINCHER
carriage to bring fence up to and just touch the outer edge of the bit.
You can sight by eye or use a paper or foil shim to cover fence opening.
You can close the SmartFence gap simply by moving one of its sliding
sections over to close the gap.

2. Adjust the TRU-CENTER scale on CLINCHER to align your cutter

diameter

to the cursor hairline.

3. Move fence back and away from cutter and place your workpiece

between fence and cutter. Bring fence forward again to completely close
the gap on both sides of board with one edge touching fence and it’s
other edge touching the outer cutting edge of bit.

4. Slide the

Rabbit

until its centerline is in alignment with the

Carrot

on the
TRU-CENTER scale. Be careful to maintain the position of board, fence
and orientation of cutter edge toward the fence during these steps.

5. Remove board and move carriage until

Rabbit

is in near alignment with
cursor hairline. Lower CLINCHER Cam-handle to the Micro-adjust
position which engages it’s lead screw and micro adjust as necessary to
zero the Rabbit to cursor. You can now set the Micro-adjust thumbwheel
scale to zero. Lock carriage in place. Your workpiece is now centered
to the center of your router bit.

Centering for Perfect Symmetry...using the Rabbit

It is always desirable to have a dovetail or box joint pattern centered to your
workpiece so that the outside pins are of equal size. By finding the exact
center of your workpiece, a symmetrical joint will be assured when the
template is properly aligned before making the series of cuts.

With the patented CLINCHER and its patent pending

TRU-CENTER

FINDER

, this formerly difficult and laborsome procedure of finding the exact
board center is now very simple and nearly automatic - and, with no need to
remove the router bit. To aid in achieving perfect symmetry, all variably
spaced template patterns have yellow diamonds for centering alignment
while all equally spaced patterns can use any cut line (Red or Black) for

alignment. As a general rule, when diamonds are only on one edge of a
template (variably spaced patterns only), all lines on its opposite edge can
also be used for centering alignment.

Steps for Centering

Edge of bit just
“kissing” face of fence.

Workpiece

Router Bit

Pointer on rabbit aligned
with carrot on TRU-CENTER scale.

Hairline

Rabbit

11

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

Determine Pin and Tail Cuts

SELECTION OF YOUR WORKPIECES

The type of your project involving joinery will usually determine which two sides should be
the pins and which two sides should be the tails. Normally, the front and back workpieces
in a frame or box will be pins. For example, in drawer construction the front and back
pieces are always pins. In a half-blind dovetail version the joint will be concealed plus its
greatest strength will be in the direction of the pull of the drawer. Selection may be based
more upon the final appearance of your project such as a jewelry box or humidor made
with decorative corner joints.

ASSIGNMENT OF TEMPLATE CUT LINES

The final step before making the cuts is to determine which series of template cut lines
(Red or Black) to assign to your pin and tail workpieces. You will need to use the full size
plan for the joint and one of your workpieces with a pencil mark placed at the center edge
of its width.

On variably spaced template patterns, you will also have the option of choosing between
two different symmetry marks center cuts to achieve two entirely different joint appear­ances. On double inlay patterns, the assignment has been pre-determined by stock width
and is found on Symmetry Charts on their respective plan pages.

This illustration shows the characteristics of a properly cut pin board and tail board.
A tail board always begins and ends with open cuts while a pin board will always
have solid stock on its edges. Therefore, it is very important to deter mine which series,

Red or Black, to use for the tail boards and which series will be used for the pin boards.

1. With a pencil, locate and mar k the center of the width of one of your workpieces.
Since this is the same as the space between the fence and center of your cutter,
you can quickly locate and mark the center of your board by placing it against the
fence and up close to the bit.

2. Turn to the full-sized plan diagram for the template you have chosen. Place your
board onto the plan page and align the pencil mark to one of the lower

symmetry

marks

on the lower half (Black) of diagram. (The

symmetry marks

are the narrow
lines which extend between template and into the center of a cut groove on the
diagram).

Symmetry marks

always coincide with template cut lines (Red or Black)

except on some variably spaced patterns. On these templates, upper

symmetry

marks

are represented by yellow diamonds.

On one side of the plans the outer edges of the board will overlap grooves. The series of
cuts on that side of the drawing (RED or BLACK) will become the tail cuts. On the other
side of the plans the outer edges of the board will overlap shaded pins on the drawing.
The series of cuts on that side will become the pin cuts. It is suggested that you mark
your boards before you start cutting.

NOTE: If your board edges fall onto or so close to a cut line that you cannot

determine which series of cut lines to assign for pins or tails; or, if the
size of the outside pins will be too small, you can take the following steps:

A) Choose another template pattern.
B) Trim board widths slightly.
C) Pre-cut tail boards on first cut and after-cut tail boards on last cut. This will remove

the small sliver on each end. When cutting pin boards make sure that your first and
last cut is entirely into workpiece. This will give you a symmetrical joint with both
outside pins being slightly larger.

CHOOSING ANOTHER SYMM ETRY MARK FOR
PATTERN VARIATION

If your selected template is a v

ariably spaced pattern you have the option of obtaining a

strikingly different appearing joint simply by choosing an upper

symmetry mark

on diagram
rather than a lower one. Doing this will generally reverse the assignment of the Red and
Black lines if aligned to a lower and will reverse the wide and narrow grooves from one
workpiece to the other. All variably spaced templates have a yellow diamond placed at its
top edge for centering alignment for this variation in joint pattern.

This illustration shows how placing the wide groove in the middle of your joint instead of
the narrow groove can dramatically change its appearance. This variation is accomplished
simply by aligning your pencil mark to the upper

symmetry mark

.

Align Template

With carriage locked and

Rabbit still aligned to cursor,

adjust the template in its slot until one of the

symmetry marks

you selected
is in alignment with the cursor hairline. Be sure that there will be enough cut lines to the left and r ight of cursor to make all the
cuts over your board width. You can quickly verify this by making a comparison of the center mark on your board to the template
and its position under cursor.

Symmetry marks are easily identified on templates as follows:

Equally Spaced Patterns: All lines are

symmetry marks

, RED are upper and dashed BLACK are lower.

Variably Spaced Patterns: All yellow diamonds are upper, all dashed BLACK lines are lower.
Double-inlay Patterns: All yellow diamonds are symmetry marks, upper and lower.

This example shows the board edges overlapping the grooves on the
upper side of plan (RED). Therefore, for this board width, the tail cuts will
be the RED series of cut lines and the pin cuts will be the BLACK series of
cut lines.

Tail boards are
always cut
VERTICALLY using
the Vertical Push
Fixture. Tail
boards always
have open cuts on
its edges.

Pin boards are
cut F

ACE DOWN
on the router
table. Pin boards
always have half
pins on its outer
edges.

PINS AND TAILS - HALF BLIND DOVETAIL

PENCIL MARK ALIGNED TO A LOWER

SYMMETRY MARK

OPTIONS FOR VARIABLY SPACED PATTERNS

Narrow tails

(made with upper cuts)

Wide tails

(made with lower cuts)

12

Tail Board

Pin Board

Closed ends

Open ends

Pencil Mark at center of board

Upper Symmetry Mark

Lower Symmetry Mark

Tail Board

Tail Board

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

BOX JOINTS

The two most important factors in making good box joints is the diameter of
the router bit and the spacing of the cuts. The CLINCHER will provide the
accuracy and templates the correct spacing. All box joint cuts are end
grain cuts and require the use of the Vertical Push Fixture (VPF-1).

If the bit is oversize the fit of the pins and tails will be too loose. The only
options are to either have the bit ground to the proper diameter or use
another bit. Most router bit manufacturers make their straight bits slightly
under the nominal size. When a bit is too undersized the fit will be too tight.
In this case the CLINCHER provides an easy remedy with its micro-adjusta­bility. After performing a series of pin cuts, the same series of ALL cuts is
repeated after the fence is micro-adjusted over by an amount that will just
shave each pin. This is the only procedure that can compensate for an
undersized bit. You must determine the exact amount by trial and error by
making small incremental changes with the thumbwheel.

Once a perfect fit is achieved, record the micro-adjustment setting for future
usage with that bit. Don’t forget to reset the thumbwheel back to zero after
completion of the

shaving

cuts. And, don’t let all of this discourage you from
using the box joint since in most cases the bit as purchased will produce a
satisfactory joint.

The Straight Router Bit

1. Set depth of cut

After you have installed the appropriate size router bit for your selected
template pattern, set the bit to a height that just barely exceeds the thickness
of the workpiece. If two boards are to be joined that are of different thick­ness, then two different height settings will be required unless you rabbet
the thicker workpiece. The depth of cut on one workpiece is to match the
thickness of the other workpiece and vice versa. Most router bit manufactur­ers recommend that you not cut deeper than the diameter of the bit in any
single pass.

2. Center board for Symmetry

Use the CLINCHER

Rabbit

and the TRU-CENTER
scale to center the bit on your workpiece following
the instructions in the earlier Section on

Making

The Perfect Joint

. After finding center, lock

carriage and install the selected template. Take
one of your workpieces and place a small pencil
mark at its center on one end. You can do this by
placing it against the fence and up close to the bit.
This center mark will be used in the next step to
establish which series of cuts (RED or BLACK) to
use for the pins and which to use for the tails.

3. Determine Pin and Tail Cuts

Find the full size plan page for your selected template pattern to determine
the choice for a properly cut tail and pin board. Refer to the earlier Section
on

Making The Perfect Joint

. Place your board onto plan page and align

pencil mark to one of the l

ower

center cut marks

. The side of the plans
which the outer edges of the board overlap grooves will become the series of
tail cuts. If your template is variably spaced you can obtain a different
appearing joint by aligning pencil mark to an upper

center cut mark

before

assignment of cut series.

5. Make the Cuts

Clamp your Pin boards to the Vertical Push Fixture with a backing board as shown. The backing
board will prevent splintering as the bit exits the cut. Install a stop block on fence to limit the
travel of the VPF-1 to prevent damage to the fixture. Make the series of pin cuts. Flip the boards
end for end and repeat the same cuts. Now clamp the tail boards with a backing board to the
VPF-1 and make its series of cuts on both ends. Note: The first cut on the tail board will be an
open cut meaning that you will be cutting away the edge of the board adjacent to the fence. To
prevent this first cut from splintering, make the cut in several small side by side passes.

Pin and tail cuts can be made at the same time (this will only work with equally spaced joints).
Two pieces for the front and back and two pieces for the sides are clamped together along with
the back up board. The two front pieces (with the pins) are offset from the fence by the exact
diameter of the router bit. With this setup only the series of cuts for the tails need to be made.
With variably spaced patterns, pins and tails must be cut separately.

4. Align Template

With carriage locked and

Rabbit still aligned to cursor,

adjust the template in its slot until

one of the

symmetry marks

you selected is in alignment with the cursor hairline. Be sure
that there will be enough cut lines to the left and right of cursor to make all the cuts over
your board width. You can quickly verify this by making a comparison of the center mark
on your board to the template and its position under cursor.

This example shows the board edges overlapping the grooves upper side of
plan (RED). Therefore, for this board width, the tail cuts will be the RED
series of cut lines and the pin cuts will be the BLACK series of cut lines.

1. 2. 3.

5.4.

Make this cut in
several small side
by side passes.

13

Pencil Mark at center of board

Upper Symmetry Mark

Lower Symmetry Mark

Router Table Top

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

HALF BLIND DOVETAILS

Begin by selecting the template and corresponding bit for your joinery
project. If your template selection is a variably spaced pattern, you will also
need the equally spaced template for the same bit diameter to use in setting
the depth of cut.

The following procedure is the same

for all types of dovetails. To have a
perfectly fitting dovetail, regardless of the type, the depth of cut is critical.
Every dovetail bit has its own unique depth of cut which is dependent on all
three of the following parameters:

1. Diameter of the bit

2. Degree of angle of the cut

3. Spacing of the cuts

Router bits will vary slightly in diameter and degree of cutting angle due to
manufacturing tolerances. For a given pattern spacing, the depth of cut for
the desired fit must be determined by trial and error.The depth of cut for all
patterns using the same router bit, whether equally spaced or variably
spaced, is the same.

Therefore,

you will

find it easier to use the equally

spaced template to make your

test cuts. Set the bit height to the

approxi-

mate

setting shown on the selected template plan page. Install the equally

spaced template for the bit size.
Position your fence as shown in the illustration so that about half of the bit is

inside the fence opening (or profile insert if used). Slide template to align a
BLACK line under the hairline cursor.

Using two scrap pieces of wood clamped vertically to the Ver tical Push
Fixture, make two or three cuts following the series of BLACK template
settings. Once completed, test the fit of the two pieces together. If they
cannot fit together or are too tight you need to lower the bit height. If the
fit is too loose you need to raise the bit height. Repeat this procedure until
the desired fit is achieved.

You MUST

arrive at the proper depth of cut by trial and error.

NOTE: It requires very little change of the bit

height to affect the fit.

Mark one of the final test pieces to identify the bit. Save the piece to be
used as a setup gauge for the next time that you want to make the same
size joint. This will save you a lot of time when doing trial and error setups.

1. Setting depth of cut for Dovetails

2. Center board for Symmetry

Use the CLINCHER

Rabbit

and the TRU-CENTER
scale to center the bit on your workpiece following the
instructions in the earlier Section on

Making The

Perfect Joint

. After finding center, lock carriage and
install the selected template. Take one of your
workpieces and place a small pencil mark at its
center on one end. You can do this by placing it
against the fence and up close to the bit. This center
mark will be used in the next step to establish which
series of cuts (RED or BLACK) to use for the pins
and which to use for the tails.

3. Determine Pin and Tail Cuts

Find the full size plan page for your selected template pattern to determine
the choice for a properly cut tail and pin board. Refer to the earlier Section
on

Making The Perfect Joint

. Place your board onto plan page and align

pencil mark to one of the lower

center cut marks

. The side of the plans
which the outer edges of the board overlap grooves will become the series of
Tail cuts. If your template is variably spaced you can obtain a different
appearing joint by aligning pencil mark to an upper

center cut mark

before

assignment of cut series.

4. Align Template

With carriage locked and

Rabbit still aligned to cursor,

adjust the template in

its slot until one of the

symmetry marks

you selected is in alignment with the
cursor hairline. Be sure that there will be enough cut lines to the left and
right of cursor to make all the cuts over your board width. You can quickly
verify this by making a comparison of the center mark on your board to the
template and its position under cursor.

This example shows the board edges overlapping the grooves on the upper
side of plan (RED). Therefore, for this board width, the tail cuts will be the
RED series of cut lines and the pin cuts will be the BLACK series of cut lines.

RRUULLEE OOFF TTHHUUMMBB

• Heighten to Tighten

• Lower to Loosen

1. 2. 3.

5.4.

Template

Number

Description

1/4" Equally Spaced126

Plan

Page

1/4" Variable No. 1226
1/4" Variable No. 2326
5/16" Equally Spaced427
5/16" Variable No. 1527
5/16" Variable No. 2627
3/8" Equally Spaced728
3/8" Variable No. 1828
3/8" Variable No. 2928
1/2" Equally Spaced10 29
1/2" Variable No. 111 29
1/2" Variable No. 2 2912
5/8" Equally Spaced No.1 3013
5/8" Equally Spaced No.2 3014
3/4" Equally Spaced 3115

Gap

Raise bit by
amount of gap.

14

Pencil Mark at center of board

Upper Symmetry Mark

Lower Symmetry Mark

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

QUICK REVIEW

Half Blind Dovetails

5. Making the Pins

Pins are cut by passing the board over the router bit with the board in
a horizontal position. Use a rubber-soled push block to keep the
board firmly down against the table top and in against the fence. Use
the X-Y Stop Block to limit the length of the cut.

After you have centered your board for symmetry, aligned template
and set the bit height as previously described, you will make the Pin
cuts with the series of lines assigned for them.

a.

POSITION STOP BLOCK

(1) Set the CLINCHER to the first pin cut on the template which places the bit in front of fence.
(2) Inser t the fence Outfeed Scale into the fence slot with the arrow pointing toward the outfeed end.
(3) Orient the dovetail bit so that its outer cutting edges run parallel to the fence.
(4) Inser t Stop Block on the infeed side of fence. Lower the sliding vertical section and slide the Stop toward

the outfeed side of the fence until the leading edge of the Stop just makes contact with the cutting
edge of the bit. Tighten the thumbscrew.

(5) Slide the Outfeed Scale under the Stop Block and align its zero line to the outf

eed side edge of the Stop
Block. This procedure calibrates the cutting edge of the bit to the Scale. The Scale can now be used as
a reference to set the length of cut.

(6) Loosen both Stop Block thumbscrews. Raise the vertical section of the Stop Block and slide toward the

outfeed side. Place it over the router bit. Lower the vertical section to allow a small clearance over the
bit. Tighten the thumbscrew to lock the vertical section in place.

(7) Set the desired length of the pin cut by sliding the Stop Block further toward the outfeed side and read

the Scale at the infeed side. As a rule of thumb, this setting should be equal to or slightly less than the
thickness of the mating tail piece. Tighten top thumbscrew.

b. MAKE THE CUTS

Perform the series of cuts on each end of the piece, turning the piece end for end.

Note

that with this
method the fence reference side is alternating from one side to the other. Any error in centering will be
compounding when the joint is assembled. Take extra care when making your initial setups.

6. Making the Tails

The tails are made with all the cuts through the end grain with the
boards vertical and at right angles to the table and the fence. Use
the following procedure and the assigned template lines to make the
tail pieces.

(1) Clamp your tail boards to the Ver tical Push Fixture with a

backing board as shown. Be sure the work is down against
the top and against the fence to keep it square. Set your
Stop Block to stop the VPF before it can be damaged by the
bit.

(2) Perform the series of tail cuts. Flip the boards end for end

and repeat the same cuts. Note: The first cut on the tail
board will be an open cut meaning that you will be cutting
away the edge of the board adjacent to the fence. To prevent
this first cut from splintering, make the cut in several small
side by side passes.

7. The Rabbet Cut

The final cut is the rabbet cut on the back side of each tail piece. The pur pose of this cut
is to cover the rounded groove ends of the pins inside the joint while achieving a flush fit
on the outside face of the joint. The rabbet will require a negative setting of the fence
which means that most of the bit will be inside the fence opening. Using the CLINCHER
thumbwheel for micro adjustments, a perfect fit requiring little or no sanding can be
achieved.

a. POSITION THE FENCE

(1) Orient dovetail cutter edge toward fence. Move CLINCHER to position fence so

that router bit is entirely inside fence opening.
(2) Fit a tail and a pin workpiece together.
(3) Place the assembled joint onto table with the face of the pin workpiece down and

the face of tail piece up and against fence with one of the outside tail cuts in line

with bit.
(4) Move fence back until outer cutting edge of router bit just touches the end of the

pin board. Place CLINCHER Cam Handle in micro-adjust position to achieve your

final setting.

bb..

MAKE THE CUTS

Stand a tail piece on end with its inside face against the infeed side of the fence.

Make the rabbet cut using a rubber-soled push block to firmly hold the piece

against fence.

NOTE:

Do not make the full rabbet cut in one pass. Instead use 2
or 3 small side by side passes to sneak up to your final setting. You can use the
CLINCHER Inch Scale as a reference to make this sequence of cuts.

15

A.

B.

C.

D.

E.

F.

G.

H.

I.

J.

K.

L.

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

The tails of through dovetail joints extend completely through the thickness of the pins on the adjoining
workpiece. In the days before power tools and modern adhesives, skilled craftsmen painstakingly
scribed, hand sawed, and chiseled these joints in the making of furniture, trunks, and all sorts of boxes.
The resulting joints proved mechanically strong and aesthetically pleasing.

Today, through dovetail joints serve primarily as a design element. Several router templates and jigs on
today’s market will make through dovetails, but these cost upwards of $200. With Jointech’s special,
Through-Dovetail Templates, you can now make these beautiful, professional looking joints on your own
router table and only one dovetail bit at one height setting is required!

Although you could make any dovetail a

through

joint by excessive surface planing, these templates are
designed to use the smaller angle dovetail bits with long flute lengths to achieve the greater depths of
cut like those made with the very expensive dovetail jigs.

THROUGH DOVETAILS

PPLLAANNNNIINNGG PPOOIINNTTEERRSS

Knowing the differences between tails and pins is one of the more important tasks in planning and making
through dovetail joints. Although the plan page illustrations clearly identify them, just remember this; The face
grain of tails looks like a dove’s tail (trapezoid), and the face grain of pins is rectangular.

When working out a dovetail project design, select a template with a dovetail size and spacing to match your
stock thickness. In doing so, don’t forget to plan for an equally sized half-pin at both ends of the joint.

You’ll also need to decide which sides of your project have tails and which sides have pins. If you’re building a
box, such as a jewelry box or even a blanket chest, the front and back pieces should have tails for appearance.
But, if you’re building drawers, the sides should have tails for the strength to survive opening and closing.

Prepare your workpieces. An approximate stock thickness is listed on each template and its full-sized plan. This
will also be the approximate depth of cut. The exact depth of cut must be arrived at by trial and error. Once depth
of cut is determined, the pin boards should then be planed to a thickness that is just slightly less than the height
of the bit. If your pin boards are planed too thin, the result will be small gaps in the corners of each pin after fit­ted to the tail board. Unless you require thicker stock for the tail boards (which would later require rabbeting),
they should also be surface planed to the same thickness.

Mark your workpieces. To help keep everything straight, gather the four sides of your project and mark each of
the inside and outside surfaces, number each corner, and mark one edge to use as a reference edge to the
fence.

1. Set Depth of Cut

Determine the proper depth of cut following the instructions in the previous
section on Half Blind Dovetails.

2. Prepare Stock Thickness

The method of making through dovetails on a router table requires that your
stock thickness, or at least the pin workpiece, be planed to a thickness that is
slightly less than the height of the bit. Therefore, you must determine the

depth of your cut before preparation of your stock thickness and before
cutting.

Note:

The depth of cut can vary by as much as 1/

16”

per degree

difference in your router bit angle from that called out for on the plan.

3. Center Board For Symmetry

Use the CLINCHER

Rabbit

and the TRU-CENTER scale
to center the bit on your workpiece following the instruc­tions in the earlier Section on

Making The Perfect Joint

.

After finding center, lock carriage and install the selected
template. Take one of your workpieces and place a small
pencil mark at its center on one end. You can do this by
placing it against the fence and up close to the bit. This
center mark will be used in the next step to establish
which series of cuts (RED or BLACK) to use for the pins
and which to use for the tails.

4. Determine Pin and Tail Cuts

Find the full size plan page for your selected template pattern to determine
the choice for a properly cut tail and pin board. Refer to the earlier Section
on

Making The Perfect Joint

. Place your board onto plan page and align

pencil mark to one of the lo

wer

symmetry

marks. The side of the plans on
which the outer edges of the board overlap grooves will become the series of
tail cuts.

5. Align Template

This example shows the board edges overlapping the grooves on the upper side of plan
(RED). Therefore, for this board width, the tail cuts will be the RED series of cut lines and the
pin cuts will be the BLACK series of cut lines.

With carriage locked and Rabbit still aligned to cursor, adjust the template in
its slot until one of the

symmetry marks

you selected is in alignment with the
cursor hairline. Be sure that there will be enough cut lines to the left and
right of cursor to make all the cuts over your board width. You can quickly
verify this by making a comparison of the center mark on your board to the
template and its position under cursor.

1. 2. 3.

5.4.

16

Pencil Mark at center of board

Upper Symmetry Mark

Lower Symmetry Mark

Template

Number

Description

1/4", 5/16" Stock37 44
3/8", 3/8" Stock38 45
3/8", 1/2" Stock39 45
1/2", 1/2" Stock40 46
1/2", 3/4" Stock41 46
5/8", 5/8" Stock43 48
5/8", 3/4" Stock44 48
5/8", 7/8" Stock45 49
3/4", 3/4" Stock46 50
3/4", 7/8" Stock47 51

Plan

Page

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

7. Making the Pins

Pins are normally made by passing the workpiece horizontally into the bit. The Jointech
Through Dovetail employs both a horizontal (sliding) cut and a vertical cut to make the
pin. Both operations are made with the same bit at the same height setting. Use the
assigned template lines for pins to make both cuts to the pin boards.

a. THE VERTICAL CUT

Just as in making the tails use the VPF, Stop Block and a backup board to
prevent splintering. Be sure the end of the workpieces are down on the table
top and the

ref

erence

edge is against fence. Several pin boards may be

stacked together for cutting in one pass.

b. THE HORIZONTAL CUT

This step requires a sliding cut to be made into each dovetail pin cut made in
the previous step. It is important to use the Stop Block to limit the length of
this cut. The preciseness of this cut is especially important since you will be
removing a very small sliver of material to create the straight cut required of a
through dovetail. The steps that follow will insure that you will have a perfect
fit, perfect appearance and an even fit at the ends of the joint.

NOTE:

This operation will also require that the ref

erence edge of each
board be placed against the fence for making cuts on both ends.
This means that cuts on one

end of the board will be made from

the infeed side of the fence. This cut will have to be made with the
Stop Block placed on the inf

eed side of the cutter.

(1) Set CLINCHER to a pin cut on the template.
(2) Orient the dovetail bit as shown so that its cutting edges are parallel to

the fence.

(3) Place the pin workpiece flat on the table and slide forward until it just

contacts the bit cutting edge at the inside back edge of the dovetail cut.
Move the workpiece back approximately 1/64” and lock the Stop Block
in position.

(4) Place the

reference

edge of the pin workpiece against the fence. Use a
rubber-soled push block and perform the series of sliding cuts to this one
end of board only.

(5) Repeat all the above steps for the other end of each pin piece except all

the cuts will be made from the outfeed toward the infeed side of the cutter
with the Stop Block located on the infeed side.

Even though you are
removing only a small sliver of material in this cut, it is in the “WRONG”
direction for the rotation of the bit. Exercise great care to hold the workpiece
firmly against the fence to prevent the bit from grabbing and throwing the
workpiece away from the fence.

6. Making the Tails

The tails are made with all the cuts through the end grain with the boards vertical and at
right angles to the table and the fence. Use the following procedure and the assigned
template lines to make the tail boards.

NOTE: Some through dovetail template patterns require the CLINCHER to be

micro-adjusted to a

1

/64”

setting prior to making the tail cuts. If called for on
the full-size plan page, this will be a one-time adjustment made before
starting the series of cuts. The adjustment is made by turning the
thumbwheel to the

1

/64”

setting.

(1) Clamp your tail boards to the Vertical Push Fixture with a backing board and

reference

edge against fence as shown. Be sure the work is down against the
table top and against the fence to keep it square. Set your Stop Block to stop
the VPF before it can be damaged by the bit.

(2) Perform the series of tail cuts. Flip the boards end for end and repeat the same

cuts.

NOTE:

The first cut on the tail board will be an open cut meaning that
you will be cutting away the edge of the board adjacent to the fence. To prevent
this first cut from splintering, make the cut in several side by side passes.

(3) After completing all the tail cuts rotate the thumbwheel back to the Zero position.

8. The Final Fit

On the face side of the pin workpiece you will notice a very small nub remaining. This is
due to the radial cut of the bit and will be more or less pronounced depending on how
closely your board thickness matches the depth of cut.

With soft woods this nub will cold-form to a straight line and be virtually unnoticed.
However, this is not the case with a hard species of wood. If the appearance of the pin
face is important to you remove the tiny nub with a sharp knife.

CCAAUUTTIIOONN

Do not lift the workpiece to clear the
chips or for any other reason with
the wood over the cutter.

Position Stop Block
so that router bit
does not cut into
this flat surface.

Stop Block

Remove small nub left
from router bit.

Waste

17

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

DOUBLE DOVETAILS

Templates for Double Dovetails, Half-Blind,Through and Sliding, have four
series of cuts. The full length RED and full-length dashed BLACK lines are
for the pin and tail workpieces. For the middle, or center section, the short
RED lines are for the side of the piece that will mate with the workpiece
selected to be cut with the full length RED lines. The short dashed BLACK
lines are for the other side of the center piece and which will mate with the
workpiece selected to be cut with the full length dashed BLACK lines. (

short

RED to RED ... short BLACK to BLACK

).

SLIDING DOVETAILS are accomplished when the pin, tail and center
workpieces are all cut with lengthwise grooves. The thickness of the middle
section is especially important to achieve uniform wall thicknesses.
Additionally, the middle section should be routed starting with the outside cut
to maintain adequate strength in the part of the board that bears against the
fence.

The more useful HALF-BLIND and THROUGH Double-Dovetail versions for
corner joints are accomplished the same as that of their conventional
counterpar ts except for the middle section. Of the two methods for making
the middle section described below, the first and simpler approach employs
vertical cuts only. The second method will also require sliding cuts. The
difference between the two methods will be in the finished appearance
results due to direction of wood grain.

With either method, the middle piece
becomes an extension of the tail workpiece which adds to its length when
assembled. This approximate wall thickness dimension is listed on the
template plan page.

1. Select Stock Width

The decorative nature of Double-Dovetail Joints requires that certain stock widths be used in order to produce a finished joint that is both
visually pleasing and structurally sound. On the full-size plan for each template pattern, there is a char t to help you select your stock width
and its corresponding

symmetry mark

. The selection of a stock width from this chart then determines which series of cut lines will be used
for the pin, tail and middle section cuts. For example, if a lower symmetry mark is called for from your selected stock width, any lower
yellow diamond on template is a symmetry mark for alignment to cursor. If an upper symmetry mark is called for from your selected stock
width, any upper yellow diamond on template can be used.

2. Set Depth of Cut

Determine the proper depth of cut following the instructions in the
previous section on

Half Blind Dovetails

.

3. Prepare Stock Thickness

(THR

OUGH Double-Dovetails only)

The method of making through dovetails on a router table requires that your stock thickness, or at
least the pin workpiece, be planed to a thickness that is slightly less than the height of the bit.

Therefore, you must determine the depth of your cut before preparation of your stock
thickness and before cutting. Note: The depth of cut can vary by as much as 1/16”

per degree

variation in your router bit angle from that called out for on that plan.

4. Center Board For Symmetry

Use the CLINCHER

Rabbit

and the TRU-CENTER scale to center the bit on your workpiece following the instructions in the earlier Section

on

Making The Perfect Joint

. After finding center, lock carriage and install the selected template. Take one of your workpieces and place

a small pencil mark at its center on one end. You can do this by placing it against the fence and up close to the bit.

5. Align Template

With Carriage locked and

Rabbit

still aligned to cursor, adjust the template in its slot until one of the

symmetry

marks (upper or lower as pre-determined in step 1 from the template’s Symmetry Chart) is
in alignment with the cursor hairline. Be sure that there will be enough cut lines to the left and r ight
of cursor to make all the cuts over your board width. You can quickly verify this by making a
comparison of the center mark on your board to the template and its position under cursor.

6. Making the Tails

(Remember to include the middle-section wall thickness in total length of tail boards)

Perform the tail cuts from the assigned template cut lines determined in Step 1 above.

a. HALF-BLIND DOUBLE-DOVETAILS

Complete the tail workpiece in the same manner as for a conventional Half-Blind
dovetail. Refer to the previous section,

Half-Blind Dovetails, Step No. 6

.

b. THROUGH DOUBLE-DOVETAILS

Complete the tail workpiece in the same manner as for a conventional Through
Dovetail tail piece. Refer to the previous section,

Through Dovetails, Step No. 6

.

1. 2. 3.

5.

4.

18

DOUBLE DOVETAILS

Template

Number

THROUGH DOUBLE-DOVETAILS

Template

Number

Description

3/8" Equally Spaced16 32
1/2" Equally Spaced17 33

Description

1/2" Equally Spaced42 47
3/4" Equally Spaced48 52

Plan

Page

Plan

Page

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

7. Making The Pins

Perform the pin cuts from the assigned template cut lines determined in Step 1 above.

a. HALF-BLIND DOUBLE-DOVETAILS

Complete the pin workpiece in the same manner as for a conventional Half-Blind
dovetail. Refer to the previous section,

Half-Blind Dovetails, Step No. 5

.

b. THROUGH DOUBLE-DOVETAILS

Complete the pin workpiece in the same manner as for a conventional Through
Dovetail pin piece. Refer to the previous section,

Through Dovetails, Step No. 7

.

8. The Middle Section

Methods for making the middle section for both Half-Blind and Through
Double-Dovetails are the same.

Note: Wall thickness dimensions given on
plan pages are approximate. To insure that the top and bottom wall sections
end up precisely the same thickness as the side wall sections, it is suggest­ed that you first make test cuts using scrap pieces.

a. VERTICAL METHOD

(1) Select a workpiece for the middle section. It should be of the same

width and thickness as the tail workpiece and long enough to clamp
to the Vertical Push Fixture.

(2) Clamp the middle piece vertically to the VPF and perform the

assigned series of cuts which will mate the center section to the tail
workpiece.

(3) Fit the dovetailed ends of the middle piece and the tail board

together and glue and clamp in place. Allow to dry.

(4) Place a mark on the middle section workpiece which will extend the

length of the tail boards by the

wall thickness

amount found on the
respective full size plan page. On a table saw, cut off the middle
section to the mark.

(5) Clamp this longer tail board to the VPF and perform the series of

cuts which will mate to the pin workpiece. The tail board can now be
trial fitted to the completed pin board.

b.

SLIDING METHOD

(1) Select a suitable workpiece for the middle section. The board should

be several inches long and same width as your tail and pin work
pieces, but of thicker stock. Plane it to a dimension that is g

reater

than the depth of your dovetail cut by the

wall thickness

amount
found on the respective full size plan page. As in the previous
method, test cuts will determine the precise thickness required to
achieve uniform wall thickness.

(2) Make only the one series of cuts which will mate with the tail work

piece. Be sure to use a rubber-soled push block for all sliding cuts.

(3) Using a support board (ideally, a mating piece cut by following the

short template lines which would mate with the pin board), on a
table saw slice sections about

1

/

32”

wider that the tail board

thickness.

(4) Glue the sliced center section to the finished tail board. Allow to dry

and belt sand smooth.

(5) Clamp this longer tail board to the VPF and perform the series of

cuts which will mate to the pin workpiece. The tail board can now be
trial fitted to a completed pin workpiece.

9. The Final Fit

a.

HALF-BLIND DOUBLE DOVETAILS

Make a rabbet cut on the back side of each tail board. Refer to the
previous section,

Half-Blind Dovetails, Step No. 7

.

b. THROUGH DOUBLE-DOVETAILS

If your tail boards are thicker than the pins, a rabbet cut must be
made by following the same procedure as for a half-blind dovetail.
However, you should use a straight bit and set to the same height
as the thickness of your pin boards.

QUICK REVIEW

Double Dovetails

19

Tail Board

Middle Section

Workpiece

Tail Board

Middle Section

Workpiece

A.

B.

C.

D.

E.

F.

G.

H.

I.

J.

K.

L.

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

DOUBLE-DOUBLE BOX JOINTS

As in making conventional box joints, the diameter of the router bit used is
the most important factor in making good box joints. Before attempting a
double-double joint, you should get some practice making the conventional
box joint.

Templates for Double-Double Box Joints have six series of cuts. Full length
Red and full length dashed BLACK lines are for the pin and tail workpieces.
There are two different series of short lines for each of the middle sections.
To avoid confusion and mistakes, carefully refer to the full-sized plan for the
selected template before making each series of cuts.

For best appearances of this joint, the depth of cut should be exactly the
same as the bit diameter. As in the previous section on Double Dovetails,
the center sections may be made by one of two methods; vertical cuts only,
or the method which also requires sliding cuts. Again, the difference
between the two methods will be in finished appearance only due to direction
of wood grain.

With either method, the middle pieces become extensions of
both tail and pin workpieces which add to their length when assembled. The
approximate wall thickness dimension is listed on the template plan page

.

Template

Number

Description

3/8" Double-Double Box Joint30 38

Plan

Page

1/2" Double-Double Box Joint31 39

1. Select Stock Width

The decorative nature of the Double-Double Box Joint requires that certain stock widths be
used in order to produce a finished joint that is both visually pleasing and structurally sound.
On the full-size plan for each template pattern, there is a chart to help you select your stock
width and its corresponding symmetry mark. The selection of a stock width from this char t
then determines which series of cut lines will be used for the pin, tail and the two middle
section cuts. For example, if a lower symmetry mark is called for from your selected stock
width, any lower yellow diamond on template is a symmetry mark for alignment to cursor.

If

an upper symmetry mark is called for, any upper yellow diamond on template can be used.

2. Set Depth of Cut

Set the depth of cut equal to the stock thickness which should also be the same as your
router bit diameter. DO NOT set the depth slightly greater than your stock thickness as you
do for conventional box joints.

3. Center Board for Symmetry

Use the CLINCHER

Rabbit

and the TRU-CENTER scale to center the bit on your workpiece

following the instructions in the earlier Section on

Making The Perfect Joint

. After finding
center, lock carriage and install the selected template. Take one of your workpieces and
place a small pencil mark at its center on one end. You can do this by placing it against the
fence and up close to the bit.

4. Align Template

With Carriage locked and

Rabbit

still aligned to cursor, adjust the template in its slot until

one of the

symmetry

marks (upper or lower as pre-determined in step 1 from the template’s
Symmetry Char t) is in alignment with the cursor hairline. Be sure that there will be enough
cut lines to the left and right of cursor to make all the cuts over your board width. You can
quickly verify this by making a comparison of the center mark on your board to the template
and its position under cursor.

5. Making the Pins and Tails

(Remember to include the middle-section wall thickness in length of boards)

Clamp your pin boards to the VPF with a backing board as shown. The backing board will
prevent splintering as the bit exits the cut. Install a stop block on fence to limit the travel of
the VPF to prevent damage to the fixture. Make the series of pin cuts. Flip the boards end
for end and repeat the same cuts. Now clamp the tail boards with a backing board to the
VPF and make its series of cuts on both ends. Note: The first cut on the tail board will be
an open cut meaning that you will be cutting away the edge of the board adjacent to the
fence. To prevent this first cut from splintering, make the cut in several small side by side
passes.

1. 2. 3.

5.

4.

20

Router Table Top

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

6. The Middle Sections

The method for making middle sections for both pin and tail
boards are the same. And, as with the double dovetail, either
vertical or sliding methods for cutting these pieces may be
selected.

Note:

Wall thickness dimensions given on plan pages are
approximate. To insure that the top and bottom wall
sections end up

precisely the same

thickness as the side
wall sections, it is suggested that you first make test cuts
using scrap pieces.

a. VERTICAL METHOD

(1) Select a workpiece for pin middle sections and a

workpiece for tail middle sections. They should be of
equal widths and thicknesses as their respective mating
pin and tail boards. They should also be long enough to
clamp to the Vertical Push Fixture for vertical cuts.

(2) Clamp the pin middle section workpiece to the VPF and

perform the assigned series of cuts which will mate it to
the pin workpiece.

(3) Fit together to the pin board and glue in place. Allow to

dry.

(4) Clamp the tail middle section workpiece to the VPF and

perform the assigned series of cuts which will mate it to
the tail workpiece.

(5) Fit together to the tail board and glue in place. Allow to

dry.

(6) On both pin and tail workpieces, place a mark on the

middle section part of the workpiece which will extend its
length by the

wall thickness

. On a table saw, cut off the

middle section to the mark.

(7) Clamp the longer pin piece to the VPF and perform the

series of cuts which will mate to the tail middle section.

(8) Completed pin and tail workpieces can now be fitted

together and glued. Final sanding should be kept
minimal to maintain appearance of joint.

b. SLIDING METHOD

(1) Select suitable workpieces for the two middle sections.

The boards should be several inches long and same
width as your tail and pin workpieces, but of thicker
stock. Plane each to a dimension that is greater than the
depth of your dovetail cut by the

wall thickness

amount
found on the respective full-size plan page. As in the
previous method, test cuts will determine the precise
thickness required to achieve uniform wall thickness.

(2) Perform the assigned series of sliding cuts to the pin

middle section which will mate with the pin board. Be
sure to use a rubber-soled push block for all sliding cuts.

Note:

When making the pin middle section, it is necessary to
make an open cut on the outside edge farthest from the
fence. As the board is pushed forward it can become
pinched between the fence and the bit, causing a
dangerous situation. The best way to perform this cut is
by making several small side by side passes starting
from the outer edge of the board.

(3) Perform the assigned series of sliding cuts to the tail

middle section which will mate with the tail board.

(4) Using a support board (ideally, a mating piece cut by

following the short template lines which would mate to
each board), on a table saw slice sections about 1/

32”

wider than their respective mating board thickness.

(5) Glue each sliced center section to its respective mating

workpiece. Allow to dry and belt sand smooth.

(6) Clamp the longer pin board to the VPF and perform the

series of cuts which will mate to a completed tail
workpiece.

(7) Clamp the longer tail board to the VPF and perform

the series of cuts which will mate to the completed
pin workpiece.

(8) Completed pin and tail workpieces can now be fitted

together and glued. Finishing sanding should be light to
maintain good appearance of joint.

QUICK REVIEW

Double-Double Box Joints

21

Tail Board

Tail Board

Middle Section

Workpiece

Middle Section

Workpiece

A.

B.

C.

D.

E.

F.

G.

H.

I.

J.

K.

L.

Tail

Middle Section

Router Table Top

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

The Boxtail Joint is one of the more exotic appearing joints. Rather than dovetails only on
one side as with the Half Blind or Through Dovetail, the Boxtail has dovetails appearing
on both sides of its joint.

To make this joint the material thickness must be the same as the depth of cut. You must
either plane the stock to the depth of cut as determined by the fit of the joint or rabbet the
stock in the joint area to get the proper thickness.

Though is appears difficult it is deceptively easy to make. The steps are very similar to
the Double-Double Box Joint. The only difference is the use of a dovetail bit for the four
series of dovetail cuts followed by a straight bit for the final two series of cuts.

The depth

of cut is the same for both the dovetail bit and the straight bit.

BOXTAIL JOINTS

1. Select Stock Width

The decorative nature of the Boxtail Joint requires that certain stock widths be used in
order to produce a finished joint that is both visually pleasing and structurally sound. On
the full-size plan for each template pattern, there is a chart to help you select your stock
width and its corresponding symmetry mark. The selection of a stock width from this
chart then determines which ser ies of cut lines will be used for the pin, tail and the two
middle section cuts. For example, if a lower symmetry mark is called for from your
selected stock width, any lower yellow diamond on template is a symmetry mark for
alignment to cursor.

If an upper symmetry mark is called for, any upper yellow diamond

on template can be used.

Note:

The 3/8” Boxtail requires two templates to complete all series of cuts.
Use template No. 32 (A) for all dovetail cuts.

2. Set Depth of Cut

Find the depth of cut for your dovetail bit following the instructions in the
previous section on Half Blind Dovetails.

3. Center Board for Symmetry

Use the CLINCHER

Rabbit

and the TRU-CENTER scale to center the bit on your
workpiece following the instructions in the earlier Section on Making The Perfect Joint.
After finding center, lock carriage and install the selected template. Take one of your
workpieces and place a small pencil mark at its center on one end. You can do this by
placing it against the fence and up close to the bit.

4. Align Template

With Carriage locked and

Rabbit

still aligned to cursor, adjust the template in its slot until

one of the

symmetry

marks (upper or lower as pre-determined in step 1 from the
template’s Symmetry Chart) is in alignment with the cursor hairline. Be sure that there
will be enough cut lines to the left and right of cursor to make all the cuts over your board
width. You can quickly verify this by making a comparison of the center mark on your
board to the template and its position under cursor.

5. Making the Pins and Tails -

Dovetail Cuts

(Remember to include the middle-section wall thickness in length of boards)

Clamp your pin boards to the VPF with a backing board as shown. The backing board will
prevent splintering as the bit exits the cut. Install a stop block of fence to limit the travel of
the VPF to prevent damage to the fixture. Make the series of pin cuts. Flip the boards end
for end and repeat the same cuts. Now clamp the tail boards with a backing board to the
VPF and make its series of cuts on both ends. Note: The first cut on the tail board will be
an open cut meaning that you will be cutting away the edge of the board adjacent to the
fence. To prevent this first cut from splintering, make the cut in several small side by side
passes.

1. 2. 3.

5.

4.

22

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

6. The Middle Sections

(Vertical Method)

The method for making middle sections for both pin and tail
boards are the same. And, as in the double dovetail, either
vertical or sliding methods for cutting these pieces may be
selected.

Note:

Wall thickness dimensions given on plan pages are
appro

ximate. To insure that the top and bottom wall

sections end up

precisely the same

thickness as the
side wall sections, it is suggested that you first make
test cuts using scrap pieces.

(1) Select a workpiece for pin middle sections and a

workpiece for tail middle sections. They should be of
equal widths and thicknesses as their respective mating
pin and tail boards. They should also be long enough to
clamp to the Vertical Push Fixture for vertical cuts.

(2) Clamp the pin middle section workpiece to the VPF and

perform the assigned series of dovetail cuts which will
mate it to the pin workpiece.

(3) Fit together to the pin board and glue in place. Allow to

dry.

(4) Clamp the tail middle section workpiece to the VPF and

perform the assigned series of dovetail cuts which will
mate it to the tail workpiece.

(5) Fit together to the tail board and glue in place. Allow to

dry.

(6) On both pin and tail workpieces, place a mark on the

middle section part of the workpiece which will extend
its length by the

wall thickness

. On a table saw, cut off

the middle section to the mark.

Completion - The Straight Cuts

(1) Install the appropriate size straight bit for the Boxtail

selected and set it to the same height as the dovetail
depth of cut and stock thickness.

(2) Clamp the longer pin board to the VPF and perform the

series of cuts which will mate to a completed tail
workpiece.

(3) Clamp the longer tail board to the VPF and perform the

series of cuts which will mate to the completed pin
workpiece.

(4) Completed pin and tail workpieces can now be fitted

together and glued. Finishing sanding should be light to
maintain good appearance of joint.

QUICK REVIEW

Boxtail Joints

23

Tail Board

Middle Section

Workpiece

Tail Board

Pin Board

Pin Board

Middle Section

Workpiece

A.

B.

C.

D.

E.

F.

G.

H.

I.

J.

K.

L.

M.

JOINT MAKING OPERATIONS

A miter spline is a reinforcement for a mitered corner joint. The weakness in a mitered edge joint is the
relatively small glue area. To overcome this, a spline is often inserted along the length of and centered
in the mitered joint. Decorative miter reinforcing splines are installed perpendicular to the joint and will
be exposed to view.

It is often preferable to have a mitered joint on a project for appearance to hide end grain and make
finishing easier. If the piece has molded or unusual shapes it may be necessary to use a mitered
corner.

The spline can be very decorative, requiring only a little imagination. The spline can be a dovetail that
takes on the appearance of a butterfly joint at the corner. Use contrasting colors of wood for the
maximum decorative effect. Double-dovetail splines can be made by installing a dovetail spline and
cutting another dovetail within that spline and installing another spline of contrasting wood.

The spline can be cut with a straight bit to resemble a box joint. There can be as many splines as you
want on the corner as long as you maintain the strength of the original miter. The spline can be as
wide or as narrow as you like and can be spaced by using any of the CLINCHER templates or random
spaced.

Construct your project (box) with mitered corners. The corners can be mitered on a table saw using the
miter guage set at 90 degrees and the blade angled 45 degrees, on the router table with a 45 degree
chamfer bit or on the saw table using the Jointech Sliding Crosscut Table and Vertical Miter Fixture.
Plans for constructing these useful shop tools can be found in Jointech’s Woodworker’s Notebook
(Product No.WN-12).

Once the box is constructed you will need a device that will position your box to make the spline socket.
The cut must be made exactly perpendicular to the miter joint. You can use the Jointech Spline Jig
(Product No. SJ-1) or construct your own by following plans also found in the Woodworker’s Notebook.

MITER SLPINE JOINT

(1) Install a router bit for the chosen spline shape. The bit height can be set to the approximate

standard height for that particular bit as found on template plan pages. The height may be
set deeper if desired, however, do not exceed the maximum cutting height for the bit.

(2) Select a template for spacing or make your own. Center your workpiece for symmetry as

you would for any other joint cutting operation.

(3) Install the box into the Miter Spline Fixture and clamp in place. Cut all the sockets in one

corner at a time then reposition the box to the next corner. Don’t force the box through the
cutter too fast, Make a nice smooth slide past the cutter. Do not pull the work back through
the cutter for the next cut. Push the workpiece past the cutter and shut off the router. Lift
workpiece off the fixture, pull back, and reposition the fence to make the next pass.

Making the Sockets

(1) Select a piece of stock long enough to make all the splines and wide enough to grasp and

run vertically up against router fence. Plane its thickness to be a little wider
(approximately 1/16”

) than the widest portion of the socket (your dovetail bit diameter).

(2) For dovetail splines use the same cutting bit set at the same height as was used to make

the sockets.

(3) Set up your fence with horizontal, table mounted featherboards as shown to hold your

workpiece against fence.

(4) Take very shallow cuts from both sides of the workpiece until you have cut the full dovetail

profile. Continue taking small cuts from both sides of the board using the thumbwheel to
move the fence. After each cut make a trial fit to the socket. Using this method an exact fit
of the spline into the socket can be accomplished.

(5) On a table saw rip the dovetail pin off the edge of your board retaining a small part of the

uncut portion. Cut the splines into the correct lengths to cover the joint (cut into straight
lengths - not mitered). Install the splines in the sockets with glue. Clamp if necessar y and
allow glue to dry. Trim the spline ends to match the box and sand.

Making the Splines

Sliding Dovetails are constructed exactly like a blind dovetail except the fit is looser. The fit must
allow the pieces to move smoothly but not so loose as to be sloppy.

Take care when cutting a long dovetail in hard woods. The inverse angle of the groove does not cre­ate an ideal situation for clearing of chips. With chips in the groove the router bit is repeatedly cut­ting the same material and generating a lot of heat which is the primary cause for router bit break­age. For this reason it is necessary to cut the groove in two passes, first with a straight bit to
remove most of the waste, and then with a dovetail bit to complete the groove. For the first pass,
use a 1/4”

straight bit centered to your cut. Install your dovetail bit and make the second pass.

SLIDING DOVETAILS

Jointech Repetitive Scale Templates are useful when you need to cut a series of equally spaced
grooves, multiple thin strips on the table saw, or a series of holes at the drill press, to name a few.
Each Scale Template contains two numbered series of cuts, each with a different spacing. Red
marks are for one series and Black marks for the other to make it easy to tell them apart. There are
18 different series of cutting intervals and range from 1/

8”

up to

7

/

8”

.

RREEPPEETTIITTIIVVEE SSCCAALLEESS

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24