Jetmaster MYNX Installation And Operating Instructions Manual

INSTALLATION
& OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
MYNX
THE FIRST DIY FIREPLACE
1
CONTENTS
INDEX
PLEASE READ THIS CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING WORK
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: MYNX
1) Index 1
2) Technical Data 2
3) Placement Of The Unit 2
a) Placement inside the room 2
i) Safety distances 2 ii) Hearth 3 iii) Roof / ceiling influence 3
b) Roof & Ceiling requirements 3
i) Flue length 3 ii) Flue termination point 4 iii) Ceiling penetration 5 iv) Roof Cavity 6
c) Additional accessories 7
4) How To Install 8
a) Locate the unit, and cut through the ceiling 8 b) Now fit the flue pipes. 8 c) Fixing the flue length. 10 d) Fitting the cowl. 10 e) The flue pipe must now be sealed on top of the roof. 10 f) Heat insulation. 14 g) Finishing. 14
5) Use 16
a) What wood to use 16 b) Building a fire 16 c) Using the damper (accessory) 17
6) Maintenance 19
a) Painting of exposed surfaces. 19 b) The log pan 19
7) Warrantee 20
Installation and operation of the Mynx
3) Placement Of The Unit
a) Placement inside the room i) Safety distances
The distance from the back of the unit to the closest wall should be at least 100mm
The distance from either side of the unit to the closest wall should be at least 300mm
Heat is radiated from the front of the fireplace. It is therefore important to
take special care that no combustible material is placed close to the opening of the fireplace. No combustible materials e.g. wooden furniture, cupboards and fittings should be placed within 700 mm from the opening of the fireplace.
NOTE: The safety distances quoted above, assumes that all walls are constructed from heat resistant materials. If any combustible materials are used (e.g. wooden panels) additional measures should be taken to protect these materials from the heat radiated by this fireplace.
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A B C D ROOM SIZE
FLUE SIZE
530 400 780 Ø175 105m
3
ii) Hearth
Heat is radiated from the bottom of this fireplace. It is therefore important to ensure that the fireplace is installed on a non-combustible surface.
A popular example of such a surface is a floor, tiled with ceramic tiles.
Do not install this unit directly onto wooden or carpet floors. For these areas a non-combustible hearth must be placed underneath the unit.
The size of the heart must cover at least the area underneath the unit with a border of 100mm all round and 200mm in front of the unit.
A popular example of such a hearth is a marble, or granite slab.
iii) Roof / ceiling influence
It is important to take into account all requirements for the flue height, flue protection and the flue termination, before making a final decision on the location of the fireplace in the room.
NOTE: First read the rest of this manual before starting the installation
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INSTALLATION AND
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
b) Roof & Ceiling requirements
i) Flue length
NOTE: It is important to note that the correct installation of the flue will ensure that the unit functions properly. Deviation from these requirements would lead to un-satisfactory performance.
The length of the flue must be at least
3.6m.
The standard number of flues supplied is 3 x 1.2m flues with a sliding section that can add up to 1m additional flue length.
The desired positioning of the unit in combination with the roof height and angle, can dictate that a longer flue than the standard 4.6m would be required. Additional flue lengths are available in standard lengths of 1.2m.
NOTE: Longer flue lengths could cause an excessive draw through the flue pipe. This could result in less heat being transferred into the room. To counteract this an additional damper flue section can be purchased and installed as the first flue section on top of the unit.
ii) Flue termination point
It is important to terminate the top of the flue in such a way that it will allow free passage of combustion products to the atmosphere without being subjected to turbulent air or high pressure zones that could cause a downdraught.
The guidelines stipulated below are the minimum requirements allowed. Surrounding landscapes, buildings and inclement weather conditions, not addressed below, could also influence the escape of combustion products. Contact your local Jetmaster agent for assistance in this regard.
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INSTALLATION AND
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Roof pitch more than 10°
Roof pitch less than 10°
C
A
B
D
The gap is finished neatly by fixing the escutcheon plate to the ceiling, covering the hole. Refer to the installation instructions
for detail on fitting the escutcheon plate. See Page 14 section 4)g)
A gap of 150mm must be left between brandering beams and the flue pipe. Should the gap be less than 150mm, then added insulation between the flue pipe and the brandering should be provided.
iii) Ceiling penetration
Refer to Figure 3
The ceiling boards must be protected from the heat that will be generated by the flue pipe. It is therefore important to comply with the following.
The flue diameter is Ø175mm. A Ø200mm hole must be cut in the ceiling, thus leaving a 12-13mm gap all round the flue pipe.
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INSTALLATION AND
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
IF
If the flue is closer than 600mm to the apex of the roof
If the flue is further than 600mm from the apex of the roof
If any building is closer than 2m from the flue
If the roof pitch is less than 10°
Then
The flue termination must be at least 600mm above the roof apex.
The flue termination must be at least 1000mm above the roof level.
The flue termination must be raised until it is clear within 2m.
The flue termination must be at least 1000mm above the highest point of the roof.
A
B
C
D
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provided to prevent the wooden beams from overheating.
It is recommended that all joints in the flue pipe, should be secured using self­drilling screws, and sealed using heat resistant silicone. It is normally not necessary to secure a single joint that is visible from the inside of the room. Care must be taken to ensure that the integrity of the flue installation is not compromised.
iv) Roof Cavity
It is important that all combustible materials in the ceiling cavity be protected from the heat radiated by the flue pipe.
It is recommended that the complete flue run in the ceiling cavity be insulated, using ceramic wool.
A gap of at least 150mm must be left between the flue pipe and any wooden beams. Should the gap be less than 150mm, and then added insulation must be
c) Additional accessories
In order to allow multiple installations, the following accessories are available:
i) Basic flue kit
This kit is required with all installations. It contains the necessary parts that will allow you to perform the most commonly occurred installations
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
ii) Additional flue lengths
Additional flue pipe sections of 1.2m can be used where the length of a standard flue needs to be extended
Installation and operation of the Mynx
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iii) Damper flue section
This is a short flue section containing a damper. The damper can be used to regulate the draw through the flue pipe, improving the efficiency of the unit. This part is especially functional on flue lengths of more than 4.6m
iv) Wall penetration kit
If an installation through a ceiling is not possible, then this kit can be used to route the flue pipe horizontally through a wall, and back to the vertical position on the outside of the wall
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
4) How To Install
a) Locate the unit, and cut through the ceiling
After the appropriate floor level position for the unit was decided on, it is important to ensure that the roof structure will allow for the flue pipe to pass safely through the roof. Note the requirements
described under Roof & Ceiling requirements above. See page 3 section 3)b)
Carefully cut a hole through the ceiling in a position away from any timber beams or brandering, making sure that the opening is Ø200mm. Use the ceiling escutcheon plate inner diameter as a template and add 12 mm all round.
Remove roof tiles in the immediate area or cut a similar hole through the roofing material. It is important to note the size of the base plate of the flashing. It might be necessary for example, to remove additional roof tiles, in order to allow the flashing to be located properly.
If a hearth is to be constructed (e.g. in a carpeted room), use a plumb line from the centre of the hole in the ceiling to determine the position of the hearth.
The next step is to carefully locate the unit in its final position.
b) Now fit the flue pipes.
Flue pipes are fitted with the knurled end facing upwards. Slide the flue pipe over the collar on top of the unit
NOTE: If a damper section is fitted, this must be the first section fitted directly on top of the unit. Ensure that the operating mechanism will be accessible for use during operation. The handle mechanism is intended to be facing towards the front of the unit.
Fit the rest of the flue pipes by sliding the plain end of the higher pipe, over the knurled section of the lower pipe.
TIP: It might be easier to first join two pipes, and then lift both pipes so that the top section goes through the ceiling. Then fit the next section underneath. This will be at a more convenient height. The completed flue can then be lifted on top of the unit as a last step.
The flue pipes are designed to form adequate seals on each joint, and to form a neat joint. The joints are not designed to keep the flue sections in a straight line. Keeping the flues in a straight line must be done by providing support from the outside of the flue.
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A typical scenario is:
The bottom of the flue pipe is located on the fireplace. There is one joint in the flue exposed inside the house, without any securing screws. The flue pipe is indirectly supported by the escutcheon plate in the ceiling. The flue
pipe has one joint inside the roof cavity that is secured with 2 screws, and sealed with silicone. The flue is then supported indirectly at the roof level by the roof flashing
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
c) Fixing the flue length.
Refer to section 3)b)ii) on page 4 for the details on the position of the flue termination point.
The top section of the flue can be slid up or down to achieve the desired flue length.
When the desired length has been reached, secure the 2 sections using at least 3 self-drilling screws. Ensure that the following is complied with:
The 2 flue sections must overlap by at least 120mm
It must be fastened with at least 3 screws.
d) Fitting the cowl.
NOTE: Before fitting the cowl, it is important to ensure that the flue has been set to the correct height.
Slide the cowl base into the top of the flue pipe.
Secure the cowl base onto the flue pipe with at least 1 self-drilling screw.
e) The flue pipe must now be sealed on top of the roof.
NOTE: Before fitting the flashing, it is important to verify the final flue height. It is normally easiest to first fit the flashing and fix the flue height last. In some cases it might be easies to first fix the flue height, before fitting the flashing. (E.g. if the joint between the last 2 flue sections would be on the same level as the flashing)
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INSTALLATION AND
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The first step in this process is to cut / break a hole through the roof surface.
For roof materials manufactured of steel sheets (e.g. IBR, Corrugated iron etc.) it is recommended that an angle grinder be used to cut a hole through the roof sheeting material.
For tiled roofs, remove the tiles directly above where the flue must go through.
Fit the next flue sections so that it goes through the hole in the roof.
NOTE: It is important to ensure that the hole cut in the roof is as small as possible. Any gaps between the flue and the roofing materials must be as small as possible.
For tiled roofs it is important to fill the gaps between the flue and the roof tiles with partial tiles. For example, it might be necessary to cut a tile in half, to allow such half a tile to be replaced next to the flue. On the top section of the flue it might be necessary to fit a full tile but slide it higher up, to fill the gap of half a tile.
Slide the lead flashing over the flue pipe. The hole provided in the flashing is slightly smaller than the size of the flue pipe itself. This is to aid a proper form on the final installation. Using pliers, the flashing can be manipulated to allow it to slide over easily.
The flashing should now be formed onto the roofing materials.
NOTE: Bear in mind that the aim of this process is to prevent water leakage through the roof. Always be on the lookout for possible water leaks that can be avoided!
Form the flashing from the centre outwards. The aim is to make the flashing take the same shape as the roofing material as well as to close any gaps between the flashing and the flue pipe.
Start by forming the flashing by hand, firmly push the flashing down as far as it would go without applying any strain. Then using a hammer, lightly knock the flashing down onto the roof, forming it down into all corners.
Working from the inside outward, repeat this process a few times forming the flashing a bit deeper with every repetition. Repeat this until it takes the same shape as the roof.
Now, form the flashing onto the flue pipe. Again this is normally easiest using a hammer, and gently knocking the lead up against the flue pipe.
NOTE: During the forming process ensure that you do not apply heavy force, and that you do not tear through the lead flashing. Should the flashing however be torn, this can be sealed as described below.
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
NOTE: On most tiled roofs, it would be allowable to lift the row of tiles right above the fluepipe and to place the top of the lead underneath these tiles.
The flashing must now be sealed against the roof materials. This is done using the membrane and acrylic waterproofing paint.
All forms of surface contamination must be removed to ensure a smooth surface, free of moisture and any loose material, or any other barrier to adhesion. Steel and galvanised steel surfaces must be free of loose paint, grease, grime, oil and rust.
All surfaces must first be prepared with a primer coat.
For all non-metal surfaces (For example roof tiles) mix 50 % waterproofing paint and 50% clean water to prime the entire surface. Allow a 30-minute drying time.
For metal surfaces (for example galvanised roof sheets) use the Jetmaster heat resistant paint to prime the area. Allow a 30-minute drying time.
Cut strips of membrane long enough to cover each edge of the flashing
Apply at the rate of 1 litre/m2 undiluted waterproofing paint and immediately embed the membrane into the wet paint, ensuring no creases or folds in the
membrane. Work the membrane thoroughly into the waterproofing paint using a brush. Ensure that the membrane forms into all crevices and that it completely covers the edge of the flashing.
The waterproofing paint should be evident "striking through" the membrane and if this is not the case, too little waterproofing paint has been applied or the waterproofing paint has been allowed to dry before embedding the membrane.
NOTE: Ensure that an area of at least 100mm around the joint between the flue pipe and the flashing is not contaminated with the paint.
Allow a 30 minute drying period before any second layer sections are laid.
It is recommended that the complete supply of waterproofing paint and membrane be used to apply additional layers in sensitive areas. (For example on corners, or at tile overhangs, or over roof screws)
Note: Drying times could vary based on atmospheric temperature and humidity. The quoted drying times is based on 25°C and 60% humidity.
The next step is to seal the joint between the flue pipe and the flashing, using heat resistant silicone.
Installation and operation of the Mynx
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Ensure that the area to be sealed on the flue pipe and the flashing is clean and free from dust, rust, oil and any other contaminants.
Apply silicone generously, ensuring that all gaps are covered. The silicone can be smoothed around the pipe and over the edge of the flashing, using a wet finger.
NOTE: Before attempting to smooth the silicone with a finger, first inspect the area for any protrusions or materials that might lead to personal injury!
Do a final inspection of the complete joint. If any possible water leaks are detected, cover that as described above.
NOTE: The paint is water based, and will be washed away if it is exposed to rain before it has dried. The paint needs 24 hours to dry properly.
NOTE: Allow at least 24 hours for both the paint and the waterproofing paint to dry before attempting to light a fire
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
Heat insulation.
It is important that all safety distances referred to in this manual are adhered to.
Combustible materials that are within the safety distances must be insulated to prevent it from being exposed to the heat from the unit.
It is recommended that covering it with ceramic wool should insulate the complete flue run inside the roof cavity.
If the complete flue run inside the roof cavity is not insulated, care should be taken to ensure that all combustible materials are protected. It must also be noted that heat will build up throughout the roof cavity to levels that might be damaging in the long run.
g) Finishing.
The ceiling must be finished by fitting the escutcheon plate around the flue pipe onto the ceiling.
The escutcheon plate comes in 2 sections. Each section is fastened onto the ceiling board.
Hold the escutcheon plate in place and mark where the 6 holes should be cut for the 6 screws.
Cut holes large enough to let the spring­loaded toggle screw legs through. A Ø16mm hole should be adequate.
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Fit the 3 screws (Ø5mm x 30mm long) through a half-moon section of the escutcheon plate, and fit the spring-loaded toggles on the end of the screws. The spring-loaded side must now be pushed through the ceiling by compressing the legs and allowing it to expand again on the other side of the ceiling board.
To tighten the screws, they can be turned by hand while gently pulling down. This will prevent the legs from rotating freely. It can be
NOTE: Do not seal the small air gap between the flue pipe and the escutcheon plate.
All metal surfaces exposed inside the home, can be wiped clean with a clean dry cloth, and any marks should be touched in using Jetmaster touch-up paint.
All metal surfaces exposed on the outside of the building must be coated with a high quality heat resistant enamel paint. Before applying the enamel paint, first ensure that all scratches are touched in with the Jetmaster touch-up paint. This will lay the foundation for a durable outer coating.
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
5) Use
a) What wood to use
Wet wood that is unseasoned will not burn efficiently and will more than likely cause smoking in excess of permitted emissions allowed in smoke controlled zones
Wood should have been stored (seasoned) in a dry but ventilated place for a year before burning. Green (freshly cut) wood contains around 50% moisture. Heat from the fire has to drive this off as steam before the wood can burn effectively. This heat is lost in the formation of steam. Apart from burning your wood in an efficient appliance, burning seasoned wood is the greatest step towards efficiency. Air-dried seasoned wood has about 20% moisture content; this reduction makes a tremendous difference to the heat output of the fire.
Hardwoods are better for open fires than softwoods (pines, etc. which burn too fast and spit).
A split log will catch and burn better than a round log.
b) Building a fire
Start by placing some fire lighters or crumpled up newspaper at the bottom of the log pan.
Place a layer of kindling (fine wooden pieces) on top of the firelighters. Place it in a criss-cross pattern or similar, to allow for air movement around and through them.
Place some smallish logs on top.
Ignite the firelighters, and allow the fire to settle for a few minutes. Larger logs can be added once the fire has been established.
The fire can be maintained by adding logs while there are still flames. Fresh logs will catch alight easier when there are still flames, than when it is placed on a bed of hot coals only.
NOTE: The bigger the fire the more heat is transferred to the room.
It is important not to place logs on the fire protruding from the front of the log pan. Such logs can cause spillage of smoke, or un-acceptable burn patterns.
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c) Using the damper (accessory)
A Flue damper is available as on optional extra. This damper can be used to improve the control over the fire especially in installations with flue systems longer than
4.6m
The damper operates by restricting the flow through the flue pipe. Slowing down
this flow rate, especially when a large fire is burning, will allow more of the heat to be conducted into the room, and less heat escape through the flue pipe.
The fire should me monitored continuously so that the correct damper setting for the specific stage of burn can be set.
How a damper is typically used
When the fire is started the damper is set to the Open position, allowing the maximum draw, while the most smoke can be expected.
When the fire is established, the damper is turned down to position 1. The user will check that there is no spillage of smoke into the room. If there is spillage, turn the damper back to the open position.
close
open
1
2
The damper settings are as follows:
Setting % of normal area
Open 100% Position 2 70% Position 1 50% Closed 30%
NOTE: Even the closed position of the damper does not completely seal the flue pipe. There will always be an opening for combustion products to pass the damper.
Use the poker stick to operate the damper.
• Place the end of the poker stick through the circle, in the damper shaft.
• Pull.
• Turn to the desired position
• Push back to lock it in place
• Remove the poker stick.
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Installation and operation of the Mynx
If there is no spillage, the damper can be set to position 2, and again checking for spillage. If there is any spillage, turn the damper back to position 1.
The same process can be followed, switching to the closed position, and checking for spillage.
NOTE: The idea is to set the damper to the smallest position that still allows for adequate draw.
The fire can now be left to burn for a while. It must be noted that the size of the fire will affect the optimum damper position. The ideal is to add wood at such intervals that the fire is maintained in the same intensity, in order to maintain the damper position.
If the fire is left to die down, it will be necessary to start opening the damper again, allowing a better draw.
If a large quantity of wood is added, the damper should be opened fully, and only closed down again when the fire is established.
NOTE: It is important in all situations to set the damper so that no smoke enters the room. If in doubt over the damper position, rather opt for the safer setting and choose the setting that allows more draw.
6) Maintenance
a) Painting of exposed surfaces.
All surfaces that are exposed outdoors must be inspected regularly. Any paint deterioration must be fixed immediately.
All indoor exposed surfaces should be inspected on a regular basis (at least annually). Any scratch marks or other marks showing paint deterioration, should be repaired using Jetmaster touch­up paint, immediately.
NOTE: Before painting any surface (indoor or outdoor) it is important to clean the area properly to ensure that the new coat of paint covers no dirt, or rust.
b) The log pan
The log pan is a consumable item. It will deteriorate during use. The life span of the log pan will be determined by the manner in which it is used, the fuel that is burned as well as the frequency of use.
It is best to leave a layer of ash in the bottom of the log pan. This acts as insulation, improving performance as well as the lifespan of the log pan.
It is therefore recommended that during the winter season, the log pan be cleaned only as necessary. Each night the fire can be started on top of the ashes of the fire from the previous fire. This will typically result in the log pan being cleaned on a weekly basis.
At the beginning and at the end of the winter season, the log pan can be removed completely, all deteriorated paint films brushed off, and re-coated using Jetmaster touch-up paint.
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NOTES
a) Jetmaster warrants that the fireplace will be free from defects in workmanship
or materials under normal use and service for a period of 10 years from
the invoiced date of purchase.
b) This warranty is only effective if:
i) At the time of the claim the then owner of the fireplace produces
documentary evidence to prove the date of purchase e.g. the original or
a true copy of the invoice.
ii) The warranty card was fully completed and returned to Jetmaster by
mail or by fax within 30 days of purchase. The warrantee card
must be cut from the cover of this booklet.
iii) The installation, operation and maintenance of the MYNX was, in the
opinion of Jetmaster, carried out in accordance with the installation and
Operating Instructions current at the time of purchase.
c) When a valid claim arises under this warranty, Jetmaster will, at its sole
discretion, either repair or replace the fireplace.
d) Under no circumstances will Jetmaster be liable for any consequential loss
or damage or injury arising out of, or in connection with the use or operation
of the fireplace, resulting from the failure to follow the Installation and
Operating Instructions, or from a breach of the Warranty conditions.
Jetmaster (Pty) Ltd.
PO BOX 43178, Industria 2042
SOUTH AFRICA
0800005858 (Toll-free no.)
Gauteng: Cape Town:
1316 Clubhouse Street Cnr. Koeberg Road and School Street Maraisburg, Johannesburg Milnerton Tel: (011) 661 5900 Tel: (021) 552 0808 Fax: (011) 474 2144 Fax: (021) 552 0810
www.jetmaster.co.za
Mpumalanga:
10 Milli Street Middelburg Mpumalanga Tel: (013) 246 2600 Fax: (013) 246 2951
Richards Bay:
63 Kabel Kring Road Alton, Richardsbay Tel: (035) 797 5800 Fax: (035) 797 5818
Port Elizabeth:
130 Burman Road Deal Party Tel: (041) 486 1471 Fax: (041) 486 1409
East London:
3 Nottingham Road Gately East London Tel: (043) 731 1246 Fax: (043) 731 1268
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