Jackson 999-200, 999-215, 999-205, 999-210 User Manual

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY!
Follow the instructions STEP-BY-STEP, and your installation will be trouble free. If in doubt, CALL 1- 888-888-4079. We suggest that as you proceed through the installation, you should read a few steps ahead in the instructions so you are certain to catch all notes and warnings.
ATTENTION SUPERCHARGER INSTALLER! Before proceeding with the installation, it is important to know that to validate the 2 year, 100K warranty on your new J/R supercharger, you must completely fill out the Moss Motors / Jackson Racing warranty card that comes in every kit, including serial number which is on a small white ‘bar code’ label on the body of the supercharger. Write down all of the numbers which appear on that label in the appropriate space on the warranty card. Be certain to do this now because once your supercharger is installed, it may be almost impossible to retrieve that serial number.
SPECIAL NOTE: Jackson Racing Supercharger Systems are designed to be installed by individuals with good mechanical sense and with the proper tools. Use your discretion--if you are not a competent mechanic, do not attempt this installation.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
17mm, 14mm, 13mm, 12mm, 10mm, & 8mm sockets 10mm, 12mm, and 17mm open end wrenches Deep sockets (14mm or 9/16”, 10mm) Phillips and Standard screwdriver 5mm Allen wrench Paper clip Timing light
WARNING: Once the installation is complete, CHECK AND RECHECK ALL fuel system connec­tions for possible leaks before operating the vehicle. 91-octane gasoline (or higher) is required when run­ning a supercharger.
During this installation process, you will reuse some parts or hardware and not reinstall others. It is rec­ommended that you make space for those that you will reuse, and a separate space for those that you will not reinstall. In addition, you should save the parts that will not get reused in case you ever have reason to convert the engine back to stock.
Enclosed is a set of labels that we suggest you use to label the electrical connectors that you will be unplugging.
NOTE: Will not work with factory strut tower
braces.
1
Revised 1/07999-200
Installation Instructions
SUPERCHARGER
‘99-’00 Mazda Miata 1.8L
999-200 w/ power steering, w/ AC 999-205 w/ power steering, w/ out AC 999-210 w/ out power steering, w/ out AC 999-215 w/ out power steering, w/ AC
440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93117
1-888-888-4079 • FAX 805-692-2525 • www.supercharger.com
1.0 DISASSEMEMBLY
1.1 Disconnect your Miata’s battery.
1.2 Release the air flow meter harness 5-pin con­nector by pressing the locking tab on its clip. Remove the stock air flow meter from the air box by removing the two 10mm headed retaining bolts and then remove the Air Temperature sensor with its rub­ber mounting grommet from the Air filter box. And finally remove the air filter assembly complete with intake snorkel, these parts will not be reused. Move the air flow meter to a safe place on a worktable.
1.3 Remove the molded rubber elbow and hard plastic tube that lead from the throttle body to the airflow meter.
1.4 Remove the crankcase vent hose that is attached to the front of the cam cover. (Figure
1.4). This will not be reused. Also, find the small restrictor inside the rubber hose that ran from the cam cover to the Mazda plastic crossover/intake tube. It can be felt as a lump in the straight sec­tion of the hose near the end. Persuade it out by gently clamping the hose with a pair of pliers just
behind the lump. If your hose does not have this restrictor there is one provided in the hose bag of the supercharger kit. Save this restrictor for step #7.8.
1.5 You can do this entire procedure without los­ing too much coolant, there is no need to drain your cooling system. In the upcoming step you will be removing the throttle body and Idle Control Solenoid (ICS) valve. If you remove the small coolant hoses that run to the ICS valve (which is mounted under your throttle), you can drain the excess coolant into a coffee can or such. Rest the can on the steering rack down in front of the engine and aim the hoses into the can as they drain. Once the flow stops, you can remove the throttle body without making a mess.
2.0 THROTTLE BODY
2.1 Remove the throttle body (FIGURE 1.4) by releasing the two electrical connectors (one has a spring wire, one has a plastic lever clip), the two small coolant hoses on either side of the lower Idle Control System (ICS) valve, and the three nuts and one bolt. TIP: THE SPRING
2
1/07999-200
Figure 1.4
HOSE CLAMPS FROM MAZDA ARE BEST REMOVED BY APPROACHING FROM THE SIDE WITH NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS. GRASP ALL THREE TANGS AT ONCE AND COMPRESS THEM TOGETHER. THIS IS EASIER TO DO WITH THE THROTTLE BODY ALREADY LOOSE FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. Plug the coolant hoses with a screwdriver, golf tee, or pen­cil to prevent the leakage of coolant (OR - keep the hose ends above the radiator cap level to pre­vent leakage). Release the throttle cable from the throttle shaft spool. Release the Throttle Position Switch harness by lifting the small wire clip that runs around the rectangular base of the connec­tor. If the throttle body gasket tears as you remove it (even though it is made of metal, it can tear), you will need to clean off the old gasket from both surfaces, the throttle body and the intake manifold. Carefully use a knife or the back­side of a hacksaw blade to scrape the mounting surfaces clean. DO NOT SCRATCH OR MAR THE MOUNTING SURFACES IN ANY WAY. Immediately below and behind the throttle body on the intake manifold is a steel support brace in the shape of an inverted “L” attached by four 12mm headed dolts. Remove the brace and re­secure the wiring harness ground wire attached at that point with one of the 12mm headed bolts.
2.2 Moving to a worktable, remove the idle air control (ICS) valve from the bottom of the throttle body by removing the two Phillips head screws. Use a good quality screwdriver and be careful not to strip the Phillips head screw. If you cannot loosen a screw with the screwdriver, use a small set of pliers from the side. Carefully separate the two units making sure not to tear the gasket. The gasket will want to stay with the Mazda ICS valve.
2.3 Take the Dummy Throttle body from your supercharger kit and install the Mazda Idle Air Control Valve (ICS) from step 2.2 on the bottom, rotating the ICS valve 180 degrees so that the electrical connector now points to the rear of the engine. Use the Mazda original ICS to Throttle body gasket.
2.4 Install the Dummy Throttle Body and ICS valve assembly back onto the intake manifold in the same position as the standard Mazda throttle body. Use the original gasket or the1104 adhesive on the mating surfaces and the two new 8mm x 40mm long bolts provided in the lower two holes on the dummy throttle body. Reconnect the coolant hoses to the brass coolant barbs on the
front and side of the dummy throttle body.
2.5 Do not connect the ICS electrical connection until after the next step.
2.6 Wiring Harness Modifications: Locate the main engine wiring harness on the left side of the engine (as viewed from the front of the engine) where it runs between the intake manifold and cam cover. Cut the strap of the white plastic harness anchor at the front and release the fire­wall end of the harness by gently prying the release tab on the securing clamp located near the rear engine lifting eye. Starting at the forward point where the four black/yellow wires come out of the harness, cut the black tape binding the plastic corrugated tubing so that you can access the wires within. Locate the wiring branch of the ICS valve connector and follow the wires to the main harness. Pull these two wires (purple and orange) back free from the main harness about 4­5 inches so that you have enough slack to plug the connector in the repositioned ICS valve. Cut a length of the small diameter corrugated tubing supplied in the kit to cover the wires on the ICS branch from the plug to the main harness with an additional inch of tubing to protrude into the main harness tubing. Locate the wiring harness branch for the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) that origi­nally connected at the throttle body connector. Pull these wires back to about 4 inches from the firewall. If the construction of your particular har­ness is such that you cannot free all three wires (light green/red, green/black and black/pink) all the way back, cut the offending wire (usually light green/red) and pull the wires with the connector back free. Then strip about 1/4 inch of insulation of each end of the cut wire and using the Crimp connector supplied; insert a stripped end into each end of the connector. Crimp (collapse) each end of the connector onto stripped ends, making sure that the connection is secure. With the crimp connector installed on the wire, shrink seal the ends of the Crimp connector by heating it with a heat gun or a hair blow dryer. Using some of the small diameter corrugated tubing provided, cover the TPS harness branch. Wrap the main harness and branches with the roll of tape supplied in the kit, in the same manner as the factory had. Reattach the harness at the rear harness clamp by snapping it back in place and at the front by using a new Ty-Wrap strap through the base of the white plastic anchor. You can now plug in the ICS valve connector by routing the harness branch under and around the intake manifold to the ICS valve. The TPS connector will be plugged in after installation of the supercharger and throt­tle body assembly.
3
1/07999-200
2.7 Locate the ICS blanking plate and take it over to your Mazda throttle body. Use the 1104 sealant between the blanking plate and the Mazda throttle body. Install the blanking plate onto your Mazda throttle body using the two new Phillips head screws supplied in the kit. Insert the shaft of a Phillips or cross head screwdriver into the ends of the coolant connections. Gently twist the connec­tions 90 degrees counter clockwise to their stan­dard position so that they point in the same direc­tion as the throttle body inlet. Do not worry if you kink the coolant connections, you are only moving them out of the way and they will not be reused.
3.0 BELT DRIVES
3.1 NOTE: CARS WITH POWER STEERING: You will be re-arranging your power steering bracket components per figure 3.2. Located above the power steering pump on the black plastic timing cover, remove the 10mm headed bolt that secures the small bracket for the Crank Angle Sensor cable. Remove the bracket and reinstall the 10mm-head­ed bolt. Referring to figure 3.1, remove the slot bracket and pillow block by removing bolts “A”, “C”, and “D”. Take the flat idler pulley bracket from your kit and trial fit it to the assembly per figure 3.2. You will be moving the pillow block and bolt “D” to behind the power steering stamped steel bracket (pillow block’s dome facing upward). This makes
4
room for the flat idler pulley bracket. The upper support for the repositioned long bolt “D” comes from a new adjustment bracket included in the kit. The new adjustment bracket is attached to the stamped steel power steering bracket using a new bolt/washer/nut assembly supplied in your kit. Make sure to point this bolt with its head nearest the alu­minum idler pulley and that this bolt goes through the hole. The rearward hole is now used for the relocated “D” bolt, which will be used to tighten your drive belt. Note: The power steering pump must
be in its lowest position for this procedure.
Figure 3.1
1/07999-200
3.2 When you are done with your trial fit­ting of the flat idler pulley bracket, take this flat bracket to a workbench and install the two nylon idler pulleys using the bolts and Nylock nuts provided. Make sure that the bolt heads point towards the rear of the car.
3.3 Secure the idler pulleys firmly to the flat bracket. Proceed to install the idler pulley assembly onto the car per the pro­cedure practiced during the trial fitting. The final assembly (minus the pulleys) should look like figure 3.3.
VERY IMPORTANT:
Check the clearance between the small coolant hose that runs from the base of the thermostat housing and the passen­ger side idler pulley. If the clearance is less than ? inch between the hose and the pulley, trim three quarters of an inch of length off of the thermostat end of the small hose. Reinstall the hose, reusing the spring clamp. By removing a small piece of the hose end, the hose will be pulled away from the idler pulley, avoiding any damage during operation. This is a critical area for attention since a hose failure could cause severe engine damage. Not all cars need this modification.
3.4 POWER STEERING CARS: Spin the power steering pump pulley until the nut on the main pump mounting bolt is visible. Insert a socket wrench (deep 14mm) here and hold the rear hex head with a 14mm box wrench. Remove the nut. (item “B” in figure 3.1). VERY IMPORTANT:
MAKE SURE THAT THE DRIVER’S SIDE IDLER PULLEY IS FREE TO SPIN. THE PINCH BOLT THAT YOU INSTALL THROUGH THE PILLOW BLOCK FROM THE REAR CAN INTERFERE WITH THE BACKSIDE OF THE IDLER IF INSTALLED INCORRECTLY (i.e. leaving out the thick washer under the bolt’s head). TEST THE ASSEMBLY BY TIGHTENING THE PINCH BOLT FULLY AND SPINNING THE IDLER PUL­LEY. USE ADDITIONAL WASHERS UNDER
THE PINCH BOLT’S HEAD IF NECESSARY.
3.5 Pick the flat steel supercharger bracket from the kit and slip the non-slotted end over the power steering bolt. Reinstall the power steering pump nut with the flat bracket pinched between the nut and the cast power steering pump bracket that is on the engine. When finished, rotate the power steering pump as far down as possible (the pulley will touch the AC compressor pulley if so equipped). This will allow room for the super-
charger to be installed and for the belt to slip over the pulleys.
3.6 NON POWER STEERING CARS: Locate your lower bracket assembly from the kit. The end with the small 90 degree bracket mounts to the idler bracket (stan­dard on AC equipped cars) or to new idler bracket (supplied with kit for non-AC, non-PS cars). Use the new, longer 10mm bolt provided to attach this bracket to the engine (Review figure 3.4 for bolt loca­tion).
5
1/07999-200
Figure 3.3
Figure 3.4
Figure 3.5
Loading...
+ 9 hidden pages