Jack SUPER JACK SJ125, BIG JACK BJ90 Owner's Manual

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SUPER JACK/
BIG JACK
WOOD BURNING FURNACES
FOR YOUR SAFETY:
Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable vapors and liquids in the vicinity of this or any other appliance.
Alpha American Co., 10 Industrial Blvd., Palisade, MN 56469
www.yukon-eagle.com
MANUAL
• Assembly
• Installation
• Operation
• Repair Parts
Model No.’s
BJ90 - SJ125
CAUTION:
Read Rules And Instructions
Carefully For Safe Operation
IMPORTANT:
Installation must be made in accordance with state and local ordinances which may differ from this installation manual.
TESTED BY WARNOCK HERSEY INTERNATIONAL TO
U/L 391 STANDARDS
SUPER JACK SJ125
BIG JACK
BJ90
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Furnace Specifications ..........................................................3
Features ................................................................................4
Dangers - Caution - Fire Hazards ......................................5-6
Typical Installation..................................................................7
Unpacking & Inspection ........................................................8
Rules for Safe Installation and Operation..............................8
Locating the Furnace ............................................................8
INSTALLATION
Furnace Casing......................................................................9
Combustion Blower................................................................8
Installing the Fan and Limit Control ......................................8
Electrical Wiring ....................................................................4
Wiring the Furnace (Diagram) ........................................13
Mounting Thermostat ............................................................9
Connecting Smoke Pipe and Barometric Damper Control
......9-10
Clearances to Combustibles ..............................................8-9
Ductwork Connection ............................................................9
Proper Chimneys ..................................................................9
Draft Regulator Location......................................................10
Draft Regulator Installation ..................................................10
Combustion Air ....................................................................12
Causes of Faulty Draft .........................................................18
OPERATION
Wood Firing the Unit ............................................................14
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning the Chimney, Smoke Pipe and Heat Exchanger ..15
In Case of Chimney Fire ......................................................15
Service Hints ..................................................................16-17
Parts Breakdown ............................................................19-22
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DANGER
RISK OF FIRE OR EXPLOSION
Do not burn garbage, gasoline, drain oil, kerosene, thinners, etc.
WARNING
RISK OF FIRE
- Firing door and ash door must be tightly closed during operation.
- Do not operate with flue draft exceeding .03” W.C.
- Do not store flammable materials within marked installa­tion clearances.
- Frequently inspect and clean heat exchanger, smoke pipe, and chimney of soot and/or creosote.
- Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving anoth­er appliance.
CAUTION
BLACK SURFACES ARE HOT
Keep children away. Do not touch.
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DANGERS - CAUTION - FIRE HAZARDS
(Burn wood logs or coal only)
This furnace must be installed according to the manu-
facturers instructions, NFPA and local codes.
• Ducts and plenums shall be constructed entirely of sheet metal.
• Do not use flammable liquids to start a fire.
• Do not attempt to light a wood fire when gas or oil vapors are present.
• Do not install on a burnable floor.
• In the event of an electrical power failure, be sure ash door and fire door remain closed. Turn thermostat down to shut off combustion fan.
• Do not install a power humidifier on warm air plenum.
• Store all ashes in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. Allow ashes to cool before disposing of them.
• Be sure there is a sufficient supply of outside combus­tion air to the area where the furnace is located.
• Keep smoke pipe connection as short as possible with a minimum of 12-inch rise from the furnace to the chimney opening. Smoke pipe should be 24 gauge galvanized steel or heavier.
• This furnace has hot surfaces. Keep children away.
• Before servicing, allow furnace to cool. Shut off elec­tricity.
• Familiarize yourself with this wood-burning furnace before leaving it unattended.
• Follow a regular service and maintenance schedule of furnace and chimney.
• IN THE EVENT OF A CHIMNEY FIRE, CALL FIRE DEPARTMENT, AND THEN BE SURE ALL FUR-
NACE DOORS ARE CLOSED TIGHTLY.
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INTRODUCTION
This manual provides installation, operation, maintenance instructions and parts ordering information for the Big Jack Model BJ90 and the Super Jack Model SJ125 wood burning furnaces.
IMPORTANT
Please read all instructions carefully before attempting installation of this unit. Installation should only be done by a qualified installer.
UNPACKING AND INSPECTION
Inspect the furnace for visible damage. The furnace is shipped in one carton.
Inside the wood loading door is another carton. It contains a gasket, conduit clip, wiring harness, fan and limit control, transformer-relay, combustion blower and barometric draft control.
A circulating blower, if ordered, is shipped in a separate car­ton.
RULES FOR SAFE INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
1. Read these rules and the instructions carefully. Failure to follow these rules and instructions could cause a malfunction of the furnace. This could result in death, serious bodily injury and/or property damage.
2. Check your local codes. The installation must com­ply with them.
3. Use only the type of fuel approved for this furnace. Over-firing will result in failure of heat exchanger and cause dangerous operation.
4. You must have a sufficient supply of combustion air to the area in which the furnace is located. (page 12)
5. Factory Built Chimneys:
Connect this furnace to a chimney that complies with NFPA 211 3-1.2. Factory built chimneys for use with wood-burning appliances shall comply with the HT requirements of UL 103 or CAN/ULC-S629-M87. This means you must install what is referred to as type HT all fuel chimney. Masonry Chimneys:
Connect this furnace to a chim­ney that complies with NFPA 211 3-1.2. A field con­structed chimney of solid masonry units, bricks, stones, listed masonry chimney units, or reinforced Portland cement concrete that is lined with suitable chimney flue liners and built in accordance with the provisions of Chapter 4 of this standard.
6. Follow a regular service and maintenance schedule for efficient and safe operation.
7. Before servicing, allow furnace to cool. Always shut off electricity and fuel to furnace when working on it. This will prevent electrical shocks or burns.
LOCATING THE FURNACE
Locate the furnace as close to the chimney or flue as possi­ble and near the center of the heat distribution system or next to primary furnace if used.
Locate furnace where there is sufficient air supply for venti­lation and proper combustion to comply with the minimum clearances required for fire protection and accessibility. See page 7 for typical installations. See also Combustion Air. (page 12)
NOTE
It is recommended that a 2", noncombustible raised pad be used for the furnace. This will prevent moisture from getting under the furnace and causing corrosion.
PLACEMENT AND MINIMUM CLEARANCES
For installation of our Jack Line furnace, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Standard 90B specifies the mini­mum standard clearances to combustible surfaces as summarized below.
CLEARANCE CHART
Above Top of Plenum 18” From the Front 48” From Sides and Back 18” From Flue Pipe 18” From Existing Furnace 6”
From Horizontal Warm Air Duct:
Within 3 ft. of Plenum 18” Within 3 to 6 ft. Plenum 6” Beyond 6 ft. of Plenum 1” All heat runs 1”
PARTS ASSEMBLY
1. Install the combustion blower & gasket to the provided opening just below the wood-loading door on the front of the furnace.
2. Attach the 4x4 junction box with the transformer/relay to the mount provided at the top right hand side of the front of the furnace.
3. Insert the fan-limit control into the sheet metal plenum approximately 6 inches above the furnace.
4. Wire according to the enclosed wiring instructions & local codes. (See page 13)
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REDUCED CLEARANCES
Up to 50% less clearance between combustible walls and chimney connector to furnace and ducts is allowed if insulated according to NFPA Standard 90B or your local building code. This copyrighted book is available from the National Fire Protection Association Inc. 1 Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA. 02169-7471. Phone orders: 1-800-344-3555. Their internet address is www.nfpacatalog.org.
It is a mistake to assume that sheet metal, masonry, or asbestos­like board placed directly against a wall protects it. Materials installed in this manner give very little protection. These materials are good conductors, so they will be almost as hot on their back­side as well as on their exposed side. Therefore, the combustible wall behind it is still a fire hazard.
CAUTION
Do not use any smoke pipes less than 24 gauge between furnace and chimney.
CONNECTING SMOKE PIPE
Set the smoke pipe end of the furnace as close to the chimney as possible. For every foot of lateral pipe, the rise of the smoke pipe toward the chimney must be at least one inch. Do not exceed 10 feet in length. A cleanout tee should be installed for removal of soot and fly ash.
Do not install the smoke pipe longer than necessary to reach the chimney for purposes of trapping heat. The smoke outlet temper­ature is designed so that the heat emitted is needed to carry the by-products of combustion out through the chimney.
The smoke pipe must not pass through any combustible material.
The smoke pipe entrance into a masonry chimney should be at least 2 feet above the cleanout. The smoke pipe must not extend into the chimney beyond the inner face of the chimney liner.
WARNING
Check your chimney. The chimney is a very important part of your heating system. It must be the right size, properly con­structed and in good condition. No furnace can function prop­erly with a bad chimney. The chimney must supply a draft of .03 Water Column. If possible, use a 15 foot or higher chim­ney. Add an additional foot to the chimney for each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level.
PROPER CHIMNEYS
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) requires that all factory built chimneys be Listed and installed in accordance with conditions of the Listing in the manufacturers instructions. NFPA also requires that your chimney extend at least three (3) feet above the highest point when it passes through the roof and at least two (2) feet higher than any portion of the building within ten (10) feet of the chimney.
Factory built chimneys must be what NFPA refers to NFPA 211 1-
5.217.4 as Type HT. HT is an abbreviation meaning High Temperature.
Masonry Chimneys as referred to in NFPA 211 1-5.2.17.6, a field constructed chimney of solid masonry units, bricks, stones, listed masonry chimney units, or reinforced concrete that is lined with suitable chimney flue liners and built with the provisions of Chapter 4 of this standard.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS FURNACE TO A
CHIMNEY SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE
WARNING
Return air MUST NOT be drawn from inside the room where the furnace is located.
FURNACE CASING
1. The furnace is shipped unassembled in a carton attached to the furnace.
2. Insert the left and right side panels into the slots at the base of the furnace.
3. Place top panel over the front edge of the furnace and then into the side panels.
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MOUNTING THERMOSTAT & SUB-BASE
Thermostat must be mounted on an interiior, centrally located wall away from direct sunlight and drafts and approximately 5 feet above the floor.
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INSTALLATION
Important: Make these adjustments when installing.
VERTICAL FLUE:
1. Adjustment weight must be in RIGHT HAND SLOT (marked "V") in bracket on gate.
2. The arrow on flap at bottom of gate must line up with let­ter "V" on lower right part of gate. If it does not, remove flap, turn over and snap onto gate again.
Flap can be removed by inserting small screwdriver at the back side of the gate between the gate and the flap, then pulling downward on flap.
HORIZONTAL FLUE:
1. Adjustment weight must be in LEFT HAND SLOT (marked "H") in bracket on gate.
2. The arrow on flap at bottom of gate must line up with let­ter "H" on lower left part of gate. If it does not, remove flap, turn over and snap onto gate again.
Bend outward the two ears at the front corners of collar and insert clamping screw. Bolt the remainder of the collar together. See Fig­ure 2. Hold the collar against the flue in the EXACT position and mark the outline of the collar on the flue. Cut a hole in the flue about half an inch smaller than the marks.
Then cut a series of short slits (about 3/8" or 1/2" deep) around the edges of the opening. After the collar is strapped on the flue the cut edges can be bent outward into the collar and thus make a better joint. WHEN FINISHED, THE OPENING INTO THE FLUE MUST BE EQUAL IN SIZE TO THE COLLAR OF THE DRAFT CONTROL. If flue pipe is made of material too heavy to bend out
into the collar, the opening into the flue must be within 1/4" of the same diameter as the collar.
Strap the collar to the flue pipe and place the draft control into the collar, fastening it there by tightening the clamping screw in the collar.
Use a spirit level to make sure that the control does not lean for ­ward or backward but instead is plumb in both directions, regard­less of whether the flue is horizontal, vertical or sloping.
INITIAL SETTING OF BAROMETRIC CONTROL
Set the control at a maximum of .03 or as low a draft as will give good combustion and meet the requirements for heat. Turn adjustment weight counter-clockwise to loosen, then slide in slot to proper position and tighten. Bracket is marked 2, 4, 6, and 8, which indicates draft settings of .02, .04, etc. (These are drafts in flue adjacent to control, not over-fire drafts.)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING
FIELD R-C
BAROMETRIC DRAFT CONTROLS
CHOOSING THE LOCATION
Do not attach draft control to top or bottom of flue pipe, nor in a room separated from appliance. Best location is as close to appliances as possible.
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FURNACE LOCATED IN CONFINED SPACE
When the furnace is in a utility room, install two open grilles in a wall or door opening to the rest of the house. One grille will supply combustion air. Locate it near the floor. The other grille is for ven­tilation. Locate it close to the ceiling. Each grille must have a free area of not less than one square inch for each 1000 BTU/hr. of the total input rating of all the appliances in the confined space. (See Fig. 16)
FOR EXAMPLE: Your furnace is rated at 150,000 BTU per hour. The water heater is rated 30,000 BTU per hour. The total is 180,000 BTU per hour.
You need two grilles, each with 180 square inches of free opening. Metal grilles have about 60% free (open) area, so you need two metal grilles with 300 square inches each of louvered area. The height should be about half the width.
FRESH AIR DUCT CAPACITIES
Fresh air duct capacities for duct supplying fresh air.
BTU Per Hour Input*
1/4 in. Mesh Wood Metal
Screen Louvers Louvers
Size BTU BTU BTU
3-1/4 x 12 in. 144,000 36,000 108,000
8 in. round 200,000 50,000 150,000
8 x 12 in. 382,000 96,000 288,000 8 x 16 in. 512,000 128,000 384,000
* Based on opening covered by 1/4 inch mesh screen, wood or metal louvers.
WARNING
Enough air insures proper combustion and assures that no haz­ard will develop due to the lack of oxygen.
NOTE
If you have a fireplace, a kitchen fan, bath fan or water heater that vents to the outside, add enough duct size to your fresh air requirements to accommodate their air needs.
WARNING
Return air MUST NOT be drawn from inside the room where the furnace is located.
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COMBUSTION AIR
Make-up outside air to the furnace for proper fuel combustion must be provided by openings to the outside of the building. The open­ings of ducts supplying such make-up air shall have unobstructed areas not less than the area of the flue furnace pipe.
NOTE
Outside air is needed to replace the air used by the burner and wood combustion process. Outside air is also required to replace the air used for taking the by-products of combustion of the gas or oil burner and wood/coal smoke out the chimney. Outside air is also needed to replace any air expelled by kitchen or bathroom fans as well as water heater chimneys or fans.
Failure to provide outside air to the area in which the furnace is located will result in a negative pressure or vacuum in the home. Smoke from the wood fire may not be drawn up the chimney, causing creosote buildup and sometimes causing smoke to enter the furnace room.
WARNING
You must provide for enough fresh air to assure proper com­bustion. The fire in the furnace uses oxygen and must have a continuous supply. The air in a house contains only enough oxygen to supply the furnace for a short time. Outside air must enter the house to replace that used by the burner.
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OPERATION OF YOUR NEW JACK LINE WOOD BURNING FURNACE
Check that your main blower and draft blower are in proper working order before lighting a fire.
Turn thermostat upstairs to high temperature so draft blow­er turns on, then turn thermostat back to proper setting, turn­ing draft blower off.
Crumple a piece of paper, place inside, light paper, making sure you have a good draft (.03 water column).
Now proceed with lighting a fire.
1. Open manual draft spinner 3-4 turns.
2. Make sure your smoke pipe damper is open. Place several pieces of crumpled paper in the center of your firebox. In a criss-cross pattern, place a couple hand­fuls of dry kindling wood 3/4” thickness, then several small dry pieces of firewood.
CAUTION
Never use chemicals or fluids such as gasoline, charcoal lighter fluid, drain oil or kerosene to light a fire in your Jack furnace.
3. Ignite the paper and close the door. Do not attempt to open door immediately after igniting the fire. There could be a flame flash out.
4. It will take a few minutes for the fire to establish itself. Once you have some good red hot burning embers, add larger pieces of wood. All chimneys and hook-ups act differently. After a while you will find out how your unit works best for you.
5. After a time you can adjust draft according to your needs. On air tight units, the burning time is controlled very much by the draft control on the furnace, contrary to the old type stove where the smoke pipe damper controlled the burning time. Your Jack Line furnace is capable of putting out many BTU’s, so don’t fully load your furnace or open all drafts fully until you have become familiar with the operation of the furnace. Keep in mind, a full load will not always give you the best results for your needs.
NOTE
With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt on the metal — you may smell an odor. This is normal during the first operation.
CAUTION
Use caution when opening loading door. Avoid opening loading door rapidly. This could cause flame to flash out door. This occurs when there is unburned fuel and a large amount of gases on top of the fire box. When the door is opened, oxygen is combined with the gases and ignites.
HELPFUL HINTS
Set the draft to proper setting. The chimney, hook-ups, and kinds of wood will be a factor.
Your Jack is capable of holding very large logs. DO NOT try to add a log that is larger than what you can easily place in the furnace. You will get best efficiency when you add only the amount of wood needed for a 4 to 6 hour burn.
In the spring and in the fall when the weather is mild, burn­ing large loads of wood for long periods may cause cre­osote. Stack temperature should be 300º for good burning. Again, depending on the weather, you may not need a full load of wood for a good overnight burn. You will get the best efficiency when you add only small amounts of wood.
You can use wood of various shapes, diameters and lengths, but not to exceed your unit’s specifications.
Always try to place the logs so air has free flow between them, increasing combustion.
ASH REMOVAL
When burning wood, every morning when there is just a bed of hot embers, run your poker over top of grates making sure grate slots are clear of burnt fuel.
Once every week or two, depending on how much fuel you burn, ashes should be removed.
CAUTION
Never let ashes build up to grate level. This will reduce the life of your grate.
To remove ashes, simply pull out your ash pan. But remem­ber, the ash pan can get very hot. Dump ashes in a metal container with a lid that is placed on a non-combustible sur­face.
CAUTION
Never use anything but a metal container to put your ashes in. Every year fires are caused by emptying ashes into cardboard boxes or paper bags.
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MAINTENANCE
1. AT THE START OF THE HEATING SEASON...
It is advisable to have your local furnace man
inspect and service your furnace for the coming heat­ing season.
The furnace, smoke pipe and chimney should be cleaned and checked for repairs.
2. EMERGENCY STOPS
Shut off all electrical power at the main electric
service entrance.
3. SMOKE PIPE, HEAT EXCHANGER AND SECOND­ARY HEAT EXCHANGER
Do not burn green or freshly felled wood. If you do,
creosote and soot may build-up in the chimney, smoke pipe and secondary heat exchanger. This should be checked and cleaned several times each heating season.
4. Turn on regular (primary) furnace once every month to make sure it is functioning properly.
CLEANING THE CHIMNEY, SMOKE PIPE AND HEAT EXCHANGER
On a regular schedule, check for creosote and soot build-up in the chimney, smoke pipe and heat exchanger. They must be kept clean.
Steel brushes are the safest for cleaning metal surfaces. Salt solutions and some chemicals may damage metal sur­faces. When cleaning chimney, obtain a stiff steel brush with an extension handle and insert brush into chimney from the top. Continue brushing and sweeping downward until the full length of the chimney is cleaned. Open the clean-out door at the bottom of the chimney and sweep the debris into a plas­tic bag or container. When cleaning the smoke pipe or the heat exchanger, use a steel brush.
IN CASE OF CHIMNEY FIRE
1. Alert everyone in the house.
2. Call Fire Department immediately.
3. Shut any doors and air inlet dampers and draft control. This should take no longer than a few seconds.
DO NOT use your furnace until a professional inspection has been made of your furnace, smoke pipe and chim­ney.
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SERVICE HINTS
Main blower vibrating when in use...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Loose allen screw on squirrel cage
Bad motor bearings
Weight on squirrel cage wheel moved in shipment
Main blower or blowers continue to run...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Fan limit control on unit is set too low
Bad fan limit control
Improper wiring
Main blower or blowers won’t turn on...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Improper wiring
Bad fan limit control
Combustion blower staying on...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Wall thermostat bad, check by turning temp. to 60º then check if draft blower is running
Short in thermostat wire
Home is not getting heat needed to satisfy wall thermostat
Combustion blower not turning on...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Switch on blower to the off position. Bad wall thermostat; check by turning it up to 80º and if the draft blower does not turn on, replace thermostat
Limit control open
Smell an odor from the first fire in the home...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
New steel, small amounts of residue on steel
SOLUTION
Tighten the allen screw, be sure squirrel cage did not move to one side or the other.
Return blower for a replacement.
Try to adjust it or return blower for replacement.
SOLUTION
Remove cover on fan limit control and set dials to the proper set­tings. Recommended temps: 160º on — 130º off. NOTE: Never adjust fan limit by turning dial itself (picture of fan limit dials.)
Check by turning one pointer down to where blower should turn off, if they don’t, they need to be replaced.
Go over wiring diagram again.
SOLUTION
Go over wiring diagram again.
Replace fan limit control with a new one.
SOLUTION
Replace wall thermostat.
Check all wiring again.
Check on spec’s chart to be sure your unit is large enough for your home. Be sure installation is proper, check with your local heating service provider.
SOLUTION
Replace thermostat.
Check, then repair or replace.
SOLUTION
This will disappear in a matter of hours.
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SOLUTION
If you have to use wet wood, make loads smaller and burn them hotter.
Avoid using if possible.
Measure draft with gauge. Should be set at .03 water column.
Smaller and hotter fires.
Check page 12 of this manual for proper installation of outside combustion air to the furnace room. The air that goes out the chim­ney in the form of smoke must be replaced with fresh outside air.
Smaller loads of wood and hotter fires. Stack temps should main­tain minimum of 300º.
Never use uninsulated pipes for chimneys. If installed on the out­side of the house, INSULATE!
Check chimney top to bottom.
SOLUTION
Replace with a larger unit. In colder weather your furnace will turn on once a day, one tank of fuel oil will last for a long time.
Reinsulate!
Check installation drawings and/or consult your heating service provider.
Check settings; refer to operation on proper settings and adjust accordingly. If needed to set higher, never exceed 180º on — 150º off.
SOLUTION
Measure draft with gauge. Should be set at .03 Water Column.
Relocate. CAUTION: Always open smoke pipe damper when load­ing.
Relocate Jack closer to chimney.
Install outside combustion air to furnace room.
Excessive creosote build-up. A small reminder, whatever kind of fuel you burn, there is some kind of residue build-up on the furnace and chimney. Same with wood no matter how good the conditions...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
The use of wet, frozen or unseasoned wood
The use of soft wood, particularily those of high resin content such as plywood or blandex with glue
Poor natural draft or an obstruction in the stove pipe or chim­ney flue
Too long of burning times
Inadequate amount of oxygen supplied to the combustion chamber
Low fire or flue gas temperatures
Uninsulated stove pipe or chimney flues, especially if con­struction is exterior to the house
Air leaks in the stove pipe or chimney
Not getting heat in the home...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Unit may be too small for your home; check specifications chart
Improper insulation in home, allowing heat to escape
Improper hook up to furnace
Fan limit control set too low
Excessive amounts of smoke coming out of loading door when loading...
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Improper draft
Chimney cap too close to top of chimney
Too long of run of smoke pipe from Jack to chimney
Negative pressure in home
NOTE: Creosote is a tarry liquid or solid coming from distillation of wood during the combustion process. The heavier the build-ups, the greater chance of a chimney fire.
NOTE: No matter how seasoned the wood, no matter how good the draft, you will always get a small amount of soot build-up. It should be cleaned out before the winter firing and during the mid-winter firing.
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FAULTY CHIMNEY AND/OR DRAFT PROBLEMS ­CAUSES AND CURES
A sound chimney system is imperative, especially when burning wood. Indoor chimneys, either masonry or type "HT" metal chim­neys are best. Because warm air rises, a warm chimney allows the smoke and other by-products of combustion a natural exit up and out the chimney. Outdoor chimneys should be your last choice. Cold air naturally falls right down the cold chimney. Until the heat from the furnace warms the chimney, there is no natural draft to allow the smoke and by-products of combustion to rise naturally up the chim­ney. Outdoor class "A" triple wall is not acceptable because their thermo-siphon design will not allow the chimney to heat up, causing heavy creosote build-up and possible chimney fires.
If you know your chimney is sound and you still have downdraft problems such as smoke or smell in the room in which the furnace is located, your chimney may not be operating properly. One or more of the following suggestions may be necessary.
1. Barometric draft control - This control must be set at .03. This is just a guide. It must be set with a draft gauge to prove that the chimney is drawing .03.
2. Combustion air - You must have outdoor combustion air introduced into the room where the furnace resides in the manner described on page 12. This method supplies air for combustion as well as replacing air that is drawn out by the chimney. Leaky doors and windows will not provide acceptable results.
3. Cold outdoor chimney - Sometimes in the spring or fall, or if you live in a mild climate, your heat demands are small and your chimney just does not heat up enough to induce a natural exit up draft, you may want to consider a power vent to force a draft up the chimney. A Model D-3 or AD-1 power venter is available from Tjurnland Manufacturing Co. in White Bear Lake, Minnesota or Model D1-2 is available from Field Controls Co., Kinston, North Carolina.
4. Chimney not tall enough - Your chimney must terminate at least 2 feet above the peak of the roof. Adding more chimney height sometimes cures the problem. (See Fig. 12, page 9)
5. Home located on side of hill - When the wind blows over a hill toward your home, the wind will fall. This could cause a down-draft into your chimney. Some common solutions to correct down-drafts are to add a chimney cap with a weather vane, add height to the chimney or add a power venter.
6. Tall trees near your home - If you have trees that are near to and higher than your home, a down-draft can occur when the wind blows. Correct the same way as if you live on the side of a hill or in a valley.
7. Chimney too large - Your chimney should not be more than 8 inches in diameter or the equivalent. If too large, the sides of the chimney may not heat up to create a natural draft. When this happens, the smoke and gases cool. They become heavy and other gases from the fire try to penetrate this heavy column of cool air. This results in back puffing, poor combustion or burning and may cause odors in your home. The solution is to improve your chim­ney or line it with 8-inch type 304 stainless steel flue liner. If your large chimney is outside masonry, insulate between the masonry and 8-inch flue pipe.
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TOP OF CHIMNEY LOWER THAN SURROUNDING OBJECTS REMEDY: EXTEND CHIMNEY ABOVE ALL OBJECTS WITHIN 30 FEET
CHIMNEY CAP PUSHED OVER FLUE OR FLUE OBSTRUCTED BY A VENTILATOR REMEDY: REMOVE OBSTRUCTION
ACCUMULATION OF SOOT OR DEBRIS IN OFFSET REMEDY: REMOVE
AIR LEAKS THROUGH CRACKS IN FLUES AND CHIMNEY DISCLOSED BY SMOKE TEST REMEDY: CLOSE LEAKS WITH CEMENT
FLUE CAP RUSTY AND LEAKY REMEDY: CLOSE LEAKS
ANOTHER STOVE OR HEATER PIPE CONNECTED TO SAME FLUE REMEDY: REMOVE & SEAL OPENING
VENT PIPE PUSHED INTO FLUE REMEDY: MAKE END FLUSH WITH INSIDE OF FLUE
LOOSELY FITTED VENT PIPE DISCLOSED BY SMOKE TEST REMEDY: CLOSE WITH CEMENT
LOOSELY FITTED CLEANOUT DOOR DISCLOSED BY SMOKE TEST REMEDY: CLOSE LEAKS WITH CEMENT
OPENING BETWEEN FLUES DISCLOSED BY SMOKE TEST REMEDY: CLOSE OPENINGS
TO MAKE A SMOKE TEST, USE A SPECIAL SMOKE BOMB AND
WITH TOP OF CHIMNEY CLOSED, LOOK FOR LEAKS
Wind
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Wind
Trees
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BIG JACK BJ90 PARTS LIST
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SUPER JACK SJ125 PARTS LIST
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SUPER JACK/
BIG JACK
WOOD BURNING FURNACES
Alpha American Co., 10 Industrial Blvd., Palisade, MN 56469
www.yukon-eagle.com
MANUAL
Model No.’s
BJ90 - SJ125
CAUTION:
Read Rules And Instructions
Carefully For Safe Operation
IMPORTANT:
Installation must be made in accordance with state and local ordinances which may differ from this installation manual.
HOW TO ORDER
REPAIR PARTS
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS,
ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
• PART NUMBER • PART DESCRIPTION
• MODEL NUMBER • NAME OF ITEM
ALL PARTS MAY BE PURCHASED FROM ANY HEATING
CONTRACTOR, OR DIRECT FROM THE FACTORY.
PHONE: 1-800-358-0060
FAX: 1-800-440-1994
E-MAIL: info@yukon-eagle.com
WEBSITE: www.yukon-eagle.com
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