Since 2005, iSpring has been dedicated to providing high-quality drinking water to families across
the United States. We provide various residential faucets and water filtration systems that purify
your water in everyday life and deliver pure, healthy, and tasty water to you and your family.
At iSpring, we strive to develop products to the highest of standards and aim to make excellent
drinking water accessible for all households. With affordable pricing, reliable quality, prompt
delivery, and top-notch customer service, we hope to assist in bringing you great water for years to
come.
Table of Contents
System Installation
Prior to Installation ................................................................................................. 3
The Requirements of the Influent Water Characteristics
Total Coliforms
None
Fluoride (mg/L)
1
Heat - resistant coliforms
None
Turbidity (NTU)
1
Escherichia Coli
None
pH
>6.5 and <8.5
Bacterial colony count (CFU/ml)
100
Aluminum (mg/L)
0.2
Arsenic (mg/L)
0.01
Iron (mg/L)
0.3
Cadmium (mg/L)
0.005
Manganese (mg/L)
0.1
Chromium (Hexavalent) (mg/L)
0.05
Copper (mg/L)
1
Lead (mg/L)
0.01
Zinc (mg/L)
1
Mercury (mg/L)
0.001
Chloride (mg/L)
250
Selenium (mg/L)
0.01
Sulfate(mg/L)
250
Cyanide (mg/L)
0.05
TDS (mg/L)
1000
Fluoride (mg/L)
1
Hardness (mg/L)
450
Prior to Installation
*Installation is to comply with all local laws and regulations*
Inspect the package
Open the box and remove all of the components. Inspect them to ensure nothing was damaged
during shipping. If any part is cracked or broken, please immediately contact iSpring Customer
Support for a replacement. Identify and get familiar with the components.
Recommended tools list
● Variable speed drill with two bits: 1/4" (for drilling a hol e on PVC drain pipe), 1/4" hollow
diamond (for drilling a hole on the countertop for drinking faucet)
● 5/8", 9/16" open-end wrench, or adjustable wrench, pliers
● Phillips head screwdriver
● Scissors or utility knife
Operating conditions
● Minimum recommended water pressure: 30 psi
● Maximum water pressure: 70 psi; otherwise, a pressure regulator (model: APR70) is
required to lower the psi to the maximum level.
● Operating water temperature range: 40 – 100 °F (4 - 37 °C) (This RO system is NOT
designed for HOT water). The RO process will be faster and more efficient within the
operating range with the water temp on the warmer side and less so on the colder side.
● Maximum TDS: 750 ppm
● Install this RO system in a location where it is safe from hot/cold weather and direct
sunlight. Avoid hitting, dropping, or dragging the system, as this can cause cracks and
leaks.
1. Source water enters the system and
passes through the stage 1, 2, and 3 pre-filters.
Located between the pre-filters is the Lowpressure Switch. This switch turns on when
the incoming water pressure is 6 psi or greater.
2. The High-pressure Switch turns on
when th e pressure from the pressurized tank is
below 20 psi, and turns off at 45 psi (e.g., when
the tank is full).
3. When the Low-pressure Switch and
High-pressure Switch are both on, the Feed
Water Solenoid Valve opens, allowing water
to the Booster Pump.
4. The source water passes through the
Booster Pump, bringing it to approximately 135
psi entering the membrane housing.
5. Coming out of the RO membrane is a
pure water port and wastewater port. The RO
water is forced through the .0001 micron-sized
holes of the RO membrane and exits through
the one-way Check Valve on the membrane’s
pure water exi t port. The water rejected by the
RO membrane exits through the wastewater
exit port. On the drain line before the
wastewater is disposed of is the Flow
Restrictor, limiting the amount of drain water
allowed out to keep pressure in the system.
6. The pure water is then routed to the
pressurized storage tank. As the storage tank
fills, the tank pressure rises. When the
pressurized storage tank reaches 45 psi, the
tank pressure triggers the High-Pressure Switch
off, shutting the booster pump and system off.
7. When you open the RO faucet, the
water exits the tank, passes through the FT15
post-carbon filter, and is dispensed from the
RO faucet. As the RO water is dispensed, the
tank pressure will gradually drop back down,
triggering the High-Pressure Switch back on to
refill the water removed from the tank.
1. See Figure 1. Check and cut the tubing end squarely and cleanly with a utility knife or
scissors.
2. M ake a 5/8" mark at the end of the tube so you will be able to confirm when the tube is
inserted fully into the fitting.
3. R emove the blue lock clip from the fitting with your nail. If the lock sleeve pops out of the
fitting when doing this, pop it back in.
4. Insert the tube into the fitting until you reach the 5/8" mark on the tube. You will feel
resistance when th e tube reach es the s mall ru bbe r O-ring inside the fitting. You will need to
wiggle the tube and apply additional pressure to get it past this O ring and create the seal. If
the tube is not 5/8" into the fitting and past the O-ring, no seal w ill be created, and
leaking will occur.
5. Once the tube is full y inserted, pop the blue lock clip back on the fitting. This will lock the
1. See Figures 2 and 3. Remove the blue lock clip from the fitting.
2. W ith the blue lock clip removed, use your thumb and index finger to hold down the lock
sleeve. This will release the metal teeth holding the tube in place. While holding the lock
sleeve down with that hand, use your other hand to remove the tube from the fitting.
How to Connect the Compression Fitting
A compression fitting connects the PVC tubing to the threaded metal inlet with a tapered open end,
such as the refrigerator water inlet, etc.
1. Slide the brass nut and tube collar onto the tube.
2. Fully insert the tube insert into the end of the tube.
3. Slide the tube collar towards the tube insert until it stops.
4. Insert the tube into the tapered, open end of the threaded metal inlet as shown in the picture.
5. S crew on the brass nut and tighten it up. The brass nut compresses the pl astic tube collar
onto the tapered metal surface. It creates a water s eal between them while the tube in sert
stiffens the tubing.
How to Drill a 1/2" Hole in Your Sink or Countertop
1. It’s highly recommended to watch the YouTube video "How to Drill Faucet Holes" to
understand the pro cess better. Depending on what countertop you have, you may want to
hire an experienced professional to ensure the hole is drilled correctly.
2. C hoose a 1/2" Diamond Core Bit for granite and a titanium drill bit for steel. Do NOT use a
hammer drill on natural stone, glass, and ceramic.
3. An indent should be made with a punch on steel before drilling to help guide the bit.
4. Use caution when drilling on a Porcelain sink, as it could be easily chipped. Set drill speed
on slow. Press the bit downward firmly until breaking through the slippery surface. Some
people found it easier to secure the bit by drilling through a piece of wood firmly pressed on
the surface.
5. Use coolant to disperse heat. Choose water for granite and oil for steel. Use the Water
Suction Cup to hold coolant inside and prevent the drill bit from slipping.
6. Starting at the slowest speed, hold the drill firmly and vertically, preventing the drill bit
from slipping on the counter.
7. After breakin g through the smooth surface, swirl the drill a little to evenly apply pressure in
a circle.
8. Be patient and deliberate. It can take 20 – 40 minutes to drill through 1".
A. Source water from Feed Water Adapter → B. Source water to 1st stage water inlet
C. Wastewater from Flow Restrictor → D. Wastewater to Drain Saddle/drain pipe
E. RO water from stage 5 "T" fitting → F. RO water to Storage Tank
F. When the drinking faucet is opened, RO water from the tank passes thr ough E and G → H. RO
water to the drinking faucet
*Note: the dia gram repr esents a fau cet wit h non-air gap installation. There is one valve present on
the pure water line, and the flow restrictor doubles as a one-way valve preventing drain water from
entering back into the system.
Installation Steps
Before you begin the installation, it is highly recommended to watch the video
"iSpring Reverse Osmosis Installation" on YouTube.
Note: If you plan on mounting/hanging the s ystem, it is highly recommended to
include supports under each of the bottom three housings. Supports under the
housings will take the water weight off the housing threads and ensure the thread
strength does not decay over the years.
Note: The booster pump (and UV stage if applicable) should remain unplugged until directed.
Note: Steps 1 – 7 are independent and can be performed in any order.
Step 1: Installing the F e ed Water Adapter (AFW43)
(The bushing can convert 3/8" comp. to 1/2" NPT. Refer to AFW43 user manual)
Step 1. a. See Figure 5. Turn off the Cold Water Line via the Cold Water Supply Valve
(CWSV) under the sink. Open the kitchen faucet to release any pressure and ensure the
water has stopped before proceeding to the n ext step. Get a towel or bu cket to catch any
water drips. Disconnect the Kitchen Faucet Connector (KFC) pipe from the CWSV.
Step 1. b. Check to m ake sure the O-ring is seated inside the AFW43 female end, and twist it
onto the CWSV. Tighten it using a wrench or pliers.
Step 1. c. Twist the KFC onto the male end of the AFW43. Turn the handle of the AFW43 to
the perpendicular OFF position. Turn on the CWSV slowly, and ensure you are getting a
proper seal.
Step 1. d. Connect the 1/4” RED tubing to the AFW43.
Feed Water Adapter with Bushing to convert 3/8" COMP to 1/2" NPT
Step 2: Installing the R O Faucet
Step 2. a. If your kitchen sink does not
have an existing 1/2" faucet hole, you
will have to drill one. (Refer to How to
Drill a 1/2" Hole in Your Sink or
Countertop). Wipe clean, and dry the
area.
Step 2. b. Slip the front plate on the faucet
stem, followed by the rubber washer.
Insert the faucet stem into the hole on the
countertop. Under the sink, slip on the
back rubber washer, and tighten the nut
with the plastic wing.
Step 2. c. Slide the quick connecting up the
push-in adapter on the base so that it
seats securely into the faucet stem, then
lock it in place by sliding the blue clip
under the collet.
Step 2. d. Insert the BLUE tubing about
1/2" into the push-in fitting, and again,
secure it with the blue clip.
Note: The installation instructions below are for your reference
only. An air gap faucet is not included with this system.
• Drill a hole in the kitchen sink or countertop if there
isn't already a spare one. Refer to the manual of
the faucet when determining the size.
• Place t he front plate and the ru bber washer on the base
of the faucet. Mount the faucet on the countertop.
• From under the sink, connect the RO system pure water
output line to the faucet stem. Attach the black drain
line from the RO system to the drain input barb. Attach
one end of the faucet drain line to the drain output barb
and the other end to the drain saddle on the drain pipe.
Assemble the hardware according to the faucet manual.
Step 3: Installing the Drain Saddle
Step 3. a. Choose a spot on the drainpipe that is convenient for installing the drain saddle and
tubing. A horizontal pipe is recommended to minimize the dripping sound.
Step 3. b. Drill a 1/4" hole in the drainpipe, and paste the black sticky pad around the hole.
Step 3. c. Cut the BLACK tubing end to make a 45-degree angle. Slip the plastic nut and front
plate on the tubing. Insert the tubing into the 1/4" hole in the drainpipe, install the back
plate, and tighten the two screws with hex nuts while the tubing remains in the hole.
Step 3. d. Tighten the nut on the Drain Saddle by hand. Pull the tubing lightly to make sure it
is secure.
Install the Air Gap (optional)
Note: If your sink does not have an unused hole for mounting the air gap body, bore a hole
depending on the size of the air gap body next to the sink using an electric drill and hole saw.
• Remove the cover and collar from the top of the air
gap body. Leave the gasket, washer, and nut threaded
to the bottom of the air gap body.
• Attach the drain hose from the dishwasher to the leg.
Secure with a stainless steel hose clamp.
• Attach the drain hose to the leg from the garbage
disposal or side inlet piece of the sink trap. Secure
with a stainless steel hose clamp.
• Push the air gap body up through the unused hole of
the sink rim or countertop. Approximately 2-1/4" of
the air gap body should appear above the sink rim or
countertop.
• Securely tighten the nut and collar against the sink rim
or countertop. Place the cover over the air gap body.
Step 4: Installin g th e Vertic al F i lte rs: Sta ges 1, 2, and 3
Figure 13
Figure 12
Figure 11
Step 4. a. Make sure the O-ring is seated inside the
groove on top of the filter housing. A light amount
of food-grade silicone jel ly may be us ed to help the
O-ring seal better but is not required.
Step 4. b. The filter cartridges are preserved i n shrink
wrap. Note the direction sign on the sticker before
removing the wrap.
Step 4. c. When placing the filter cartridge into its
housing, make sure it is centered and the knob
protruding from the bottom of the housing fits in
the central hole of the filter.
Step 4. d. Screw the housing, with filters attached,
onto the housing caps (caps are pre-assembled on
the machine head ). The cap also has a ce nter knob
that should be inserted into the center hole of the
filter cartridge. Twist the housing on in a clockwise direction by hand, and then use the
housing wrench to ti ghten it another 1/4 – 1/2 of a turn. Do not over tighten. This can cause leaks and make it difficult to unscrew the housing when replacing filters.
Step 4. e. Follow steps 4.a – 4.d to install the GAC and CTO filters. *Note* the sec ond stage
GAC is the only filter that must go in a certain direction. Please make sure the end with the
rubber washer faces up, thereby attaching it to the housing cap.
Step 5: Installing Tank Sh ut-off Valve (TSV)
Step 5. a. Wrap 10 - 15 w raps of Teflon tape clockwise (when looking from above) onto the
metal thread at the top of the tank.
Step 5. b. Screw (clo ckwise) the Tank Shut-off Valve on and tighten it by hand. Do not over
tighten.
Step 5. c. Connect the YELLOW tubing into the Quick-fitting on the TSV.
Step 6: Installin g th e Reverse Osmosis Membrane
Step 6. a. First, disconnect the white tube from the quick-fitting connection on the membrane
cap. This will allow you to unscrew the membrane housing cap.
Step 6. b. All the systems are wet tested without filters before shipment, so you may notice
some water drops inside the housing.
Step 6. c. Unscrew (counterclockwise) and remove the membrane cap.
Step 6. d. Following the flow direction sign on the m embrane, cut open the “small end” of t he
bag, hold the membrane with the bag to avoid touching or contaminating it, and firmly
insert it into the housing. This way, the end with the two small black O-rings towards the bottom. When it is inserted fully and correctly, the “bigger” end of th e membrane wi ll
be even with the housing opening. See Figures 12-13. After the membrane has been fully
inserted, you may then disregard the bag.
Step 7. a. See figure S ample Installation and figures of system top view and note connection
points A-B, C-D, E-F, and G-H.
Step 7. b. Facing the s ystem's front, 1st stage is the s ee-through housing located on the right-
hand side. Connect the RED tubing Feed Water Adapter (AFW43) (point A) to the stage 1
elbow fitting (point B).
Step 7. c. Connect the Flow Restrictor (point C, 3" lon g cylinder with a FLOW labeled on it)
to the Drain Saddle (point D) with the BLACK tubing.
Step 7. d. On the right side of the Post Carbon Filter (FT15, 5th st age), connect the T-fitting
(point E) and the Tank Valve (point F) with the YELLOW tubing.
Step 7. e. At the left end of stage 5 FT15 filter, insert the BLUE tubing (links to RO faucet)
into the elbow fitting.
* Models with UV/AK/DI: RO water flows out of point G at FT15 and flows into the next
stage's input (left) side. So the BLUE tubing should be connected to the output side of the
final stage.
Step 7. f. Connect the other end of the BLUE tubing to the RO faucet (refer to H ow to Use
the Quick-connect Fittings).
Step 7. g. You may neatly organize the tubing, but make s ure to leave enough length so the
filter system can be moved freely in and out of the cabinet when replacing filters.
Step 7. h. You can mount the system using two 10 x 1-1/4 Phillips Flat
Wood Screws. This will make replacing filter car tridges easier. Note: If
you plan on mounting/hanging the system, it is highly recommended to
include supports under each of the bottom three housings. Supports under the housings will
take the water weight of f the housing threads and ensure the thread strength does not decay
over the years.
Step 8: System Start-up ( model spe c if ic sub-steps are marked with a *)
Note: You ma y now plug in the booster pump to an outlet. The pump will not turn on until the
water is flowing.
* If your model has a UV stage, do not plug in the UV power until the system has been full y
flushed.
Step 8. a.Make sure no tubings are kinked. Turn the Tank Shut-off Valve OFF
(perpendicula r to the yellow tube). P lace a towel under the system t o catch any possible
water leaks.
Step 8. b. To prevent an y residual carbon from the carbon pre-filters from getting into the RO
membrane, you previously left the tubing to the inlet of the RO membrane housing cap
disconnected. Open the Feed Water Adapter Valve (AFW43) and Cold Water Supply Valve
(CWSV), and flush the first three stages into a bucket until the water turns clear.
Step 8. c. Once the water is clear, shut off the AFW43 and reconnect the tubing to the RO
membrane housing cap. You will want to flush the first three stages like this whenever they
are changed.
Step 8. d.Open the RO faucet. Slowly open the AFW43 back up and check for any leaks.
The top 3 causes of leaks are 1) The tubing is not fully inserted into the quick-connect
fitting. 2) The O-ring is not in the correct place or is kinked. 3) The Housing/Cap is not
tightened properly or is misaligned with the threads.
Step 8. e. Within 5 minutes, the booster pump will kick on, and RO water will start slowly
trickling from the faucet. Let the faucet trickle for at least 15 minutes to flush out the entire
system apart from th e tank. The water may appe ar black at first due to loose carbon from
new carbon filters. It will eventually turn clear apart from many tiny air bubbles leaving the
system.
Step 8. f. Shut off the RO Drinking Faucet. Open the Tank Shut-off Valve. Wait fo r the tank
to fill up completely. It will take 1 to 2 hours de pending on your water temperature (40°F 100°F, the warmer, the faster) and source water TDS (up to 750 ppm, the lower, the faster).
The pump will shut off automatically when the tank is full.
Step 8. g. After the tank is full, open the RO Drinking Faucet to drain the tank completely. Do
not use the first tank of water. Let it drain into the sink until the stream turns back to a
trickle. This means the tank has emp tied, and you can close th e RO faucet to let it begin
filling again.
Step 8. h.* If your system has a UV filter, plug in the UV power and check to ensure the UV
light turns on when water flows through it. The UV filter has a Flow Sensor Switch that
detects water flow and only turns the light on when needed. If the UV is not turning on
when water flows through, confirm the power source you are using has power. Typically,
the garbage disposal outlet only has power when the disposal is switched on.
Step 8. i. The TDS (total dissolved solids) of the water should be tested periodically to verify
that the system is performing properly. iSpring RO systems have exceeded the minimum
requirements for NSF/ANSI standard 58. T h e y should be giving an average TDS reduction
rate of 90%+, so if your tap water is 100 ppm, you should be getting 10 ppm or less fro m
the RO water (200/20>, 400/40>, etc This reverse osmosis system contains a replaceable
treatment component critical for the effective reduction of total dissolved solids. That
product water should be tested periodicall y. TDS is measured with a TDS meter - it is an
inexpensive, easy-to-use device that can be found on Amazon.com or 123filter.com by
searching "iSpring TDS."
Step 8. j. Check for leaks daily for the first two weeks after installation to ensure the system is
functioning properly. Install the included Flood Alarm to provide additional peace of mind
and protection.
Note: Do not use microbiologically unsafe water or unknown quality without adequate disinfection
before or after the system. Systems certified for cyst reduction may be used on disinfected water
that may contain filterable cysts.
Congratulations, you have successfully installed your
iSpring Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System!
Start enjoying fantastic reverse osmosis water right from your tap!
-----------------------------------------End of Installation Section-----------------------------------------
Please read this manual for useful reverse osmosis system maintenance information.
Section 1: iSpring RO System Maintenance
All iSpring RO systems are designed with ease of use and low maintenance in mind. If the filter
cartridges are chan ged on schedu le as suggest ed, the system wi ll work pro perly for years to come.
See the chart below for the filter pack model numbers for your system. The filter packs can be
found on 123filter.com, Amazon, or HomeDepot.com.
This reverse osmosis system contains a replaceable component critical to the efficiency of the
system. Replacement of t he reverse osmosis component should be with identical specifications, as
defined by the manufacturer, to ensure the same efficiency and contaminant reduction performance.
System Model 1-Year Filter Pack 2-Year Filter Pack 3-Year Filter Pack
Note: Stages 6 and/or 7 only exist on specific models.
Stage 1 – 3 Pre-Filters
Replace every 6 months or sooner if you notice a decrease in water flow or quality. The
replacement frequ ency depends on your water usage and source water quality. Changing the prefilters according to the schedule is essential to protect the RO membrane from chlorine and other
damaging contaminants.
How to change the stage 1 – 3 pre-filters:
1. S hut off the cold water supply and tank valve, and open the RO faucet to depressurize the
system. Place a bucket or towel under the system to catch any water spills.
2. If there is enou gh room under the sink and the filter system is hung on the wall, you can
twist the filter housing off without removing the system from the wall. Otherwise, you will
need to pull the system out, lay it down, and remove the housings at that point. Be careful
with the tubing connections when removing the system.
3. Twist off the filter housings in a counter-clockwise direction using the filter housing
wrench.
4. Refer to Installation Step 1.1 to install the new vertical filter cartridges, and tighten the filter
housings back on. Remember not to over tighten them, or they will be hard to unscrew next
time.
Stage 4 RO Membrane
Replace every 2-3 year s or sooner if t he TDS level st arts increasin g. Check the TDS l evel at least
once a month to monitor the system’s performance. The TDSrejection rate should be 90%+. To
calculate the reje ction rat e, divi de the RO water TDS into your tap water TDS and subtract from 1.
For example, 20 (RO TDS) / 200 (Tap water TDS) = 0.1 1-0.1 = 0.9 so the TDS rejection rate
would be 90%. (NSF/ANSI STANDARD 58 for RO water filter).
1. The RO membrane typically lasts about 2 – 3 years. The membrane life span depends on the
source water quality, water usage, and how often the three pre-filters are replaced. It is
essential to replace the pre-filter cartridges on schedule to ensure their performance and
water purity. Use a TDS meter to check the RO water purity periodically.
2. S hut off the cold wat er suppl y valve and tank valve, and open the R O faucet to depr essurize
the system. Place a bucket or towel under the system to catch any water spills.
3. R emove the tubing from the quick-connect fitting on the membrane housing cap. Use the
membrane housing wrench to twist off the housing cap in a counter-clockwise direction.
4. Pull out the old membrane. Use scissors or pliers to apply leverage if necessary.
5. Clean the membrane housing using hot water and scent-free dish soap (optional). Rinse
thoroughly.
6. C ut open the small end of the packaging containing the new RO membrane. Hold the new
membrane through the packaging, and insert it into the housing without touching the
membrane with your bare hands to avoid contamination of the membrane.
7. Ensure the O-ring is correctly seated on the end o f the membran e housing, as shown in the
previous images. We recommend replacing the O-ring every 3 years to prevent leaking due
to an expired or dried-out O-ring.
Place the membrane housing cap back on, and hand tighten it, then use the housing wrench
8.
to tighten it another 1/4-1/2 of a turn. Do not over tighten.
Stage 5 FT15 Inline Post Carbon Filter and Stage 6 FA15 Inline Alkaline Filter
Replace the FT15 every 12 months and the Alkaline filter every 6 months
1. Remove all quick-connect tubing connections from the FT15 Post Carbon Filter.
2. Unscrew the fittings fro m both ends of the old Post Carbon Filter. Wrap the thread of each
fitting 2-3 times with Teflon tape, and screw them into their respective sides on the new
Post Carbon Filter.
3. Reconnect the quick connect tubing connections to the new Post Carbon Filter.
Tank Maintenance
It is recommended to empty and refill the tank at least once a month. This keeps the water inside
the tank fresh and not sitting for an extended period.
What should I do with the system when g oing out of town?
When you are leaving for an extended time, you will want to shut off the water supply to the
system and empty the tank. To do this, close the knob on the feed water adapter, and open the
faucet until it stops running. This will signify that the tank is empty. The filters should be repl aced
if the system is not used for over a week as they will be sitting in stagnant water.
The Ice Maker Kit (model#: iSpring ICEK) can be purchased separat ely to feed RO water to your
refrigerator for c rystal cl ear ice cubes and great t asting wat er. If you choo se to hook up the s ystem
to your refrigerator output, it can take the place of primary output over the RO faucet.
Section 2: Troubleshooting Guide for Newly Installed Systems w/
Figure 22
Booster Pump
1) Zero output water from RO faucet
a) Water supply is closed. Open the water supply to the system, so the valve is in line with the
red tubing.
b) Incorrect installation. Verify all tubing connections.
c) The pump is not running, therefore not allowing water through. Make sure the pump is
plugged into a live outlet that gets continuous power.
d) A tubing is crimped, blocking the water flow. Check all tubings and uncrimp any crimped
tubings.
2) Tank not filling after several hours
a) Pump is not running, therefore not allowing water to pass through. See "Pump does not
start."
b) Incorrect installation. Verify all tubing connections.
c) Tank valve is closed. Make sure the tank valve is in line with the yellow tubing.
3) Leaking from where the tubings are inserted into the fittings
a) The tubing is not pushed in past the O-ring inside the fitting, therefore not creating a seal.
Make sure the tubing is pushed in a full 1/2" into the fitting. It will take some extra pressure,
but you will feel the tube go entirely into the fitting when it does so.
b) The O-ring inside the fitting is not creating a seal with the tubing. Unscrew the elbow
fitting, and replace it with one of the extra elbow fittings. Make sure to wrap the new fitting
thread several times with Teflon tape before screwing it in.
4) Leaking from between the membrane cap and membrane housing
a) If the membrane housing is leaking, make sure the O-ring is seated correctly, as shown in
sections "Installing the RO Membrane" and "How to Change the RO Membrane." It should
be seated on the end of the membrane housing before the threads begin. The membrane cap
is then screwed on over it. When positioned incorrectly, it will create a gap or damage the
O-ring. When in the correct place, there will not be any pressure or tension on the O-ring.
5) Low water flow (trickle) at RO faucet
a) Tank has not been given a chance to fill. Allow approximately two hours for the tank to fill.
b) Tank valve is closed. Make sure the blue tank valve is in line with the yellow tube.
6) High TDS in RO water
a) The system will provide a 90%+ TDS rejection rate when working correctly. Meaning if
your tap water TDS is 500 ppm, the water from the system should be 50 ppm or lower.
b) Incorrect installation. Verify all connections on the system.
c) If the TDS of the tap water and water from the system is about the same, ensure the RO
membrane is installed. The semi-permeable membrane is blue, comes in sealed packaging,
and goes in the stage 4 membrane housing.
d) If you are getting some reduction in TDS but not 90%+, some water could be bypassing the
membrane. Contact iSpring customer support to identify the exact cause.
7) Cloudy water after installation
a) In the weeks after installing the system or changing the filters, you will see many tiny air
bubbles in the RO water. This can cause the water to appear "cloudy." The bubbles will
disappear as the system clears itself of trapped air and are harmless for the time being.
8) The system drains water 24/7 (continuous drain)
a) Keep in mind that it will take anywhere from 1-3 hours for the system to fill the tank from
empty, and the drain line will be trickling during this time. If the drain line continues to run
for 4+ hours, one of the following reasons could be the problem.
b) The pump is running 24/7. See "Pump runs 24/7".
c) The inlet water solenoid valve is bad and cannot shut off the incoming water supply.
9) Leak from tank valve connection
a) Make sure you have applied Teflon tape to the tank threads before screwing on the tank
valve. There should be at least 8-10 wraps of Teflon tape to ensure a proper seal. If you have
done this and it continues to leak, contact iSpring customer support for a replacement.
10) Water from the system tastes the same as tap water
a) Incorrect installation. Verify all connections on the system.
b) The RO membrane is not installed in the housing. Ensure the membrane has been installed.
11) Pump does not start
a) No power. Make sure the pump is plugged in. If it is plugged in and still not kicking on,
make sure it is not plugged into the same outlet as the garbage disposal. Typically this outlet
only has power when the garbage disposal is switched on.
b) Incoming water pressure is below 30 psi. The low-pressure switch kicks on the booster
pump at 30 psi, and if this pressure is not reached, the pump will not turn on.
c) Low-pressure switch is not functioning correctly and is therefore unable to turn the pump
on.
12) Pump runs 24/7
a) If the pump is running 24/7 and the output flow remains normal, the high-pressure switch is
faulty and not triggering the pump to turn off.
b) If the pump is running 24/7 and you are getting little to no output flow, either the check
valve is losing pressu re, or the pum p itse lf is faulty .
c) Tank pressure is too low, never reaching the pressure required to shut the pump. Empty the
Add-On Kit (#ACL1): Filter add-on kit for adding additional in-line filters to an existing system.
It comes with quick-connect elbow fittings, filter clamps, and extra tubingAlkaline Remineralization Filter* (#FA15): 6th stage. Remineralizes the RO water and
neutralizes the pH Auto Flush Solenoid Valve (#ASOF7): Automatically flushes the RO membrane to preserve
membrane life and efficiency
Booster Pump (#PMP5): 24-volt booster pump used by residential iSpring RO systems
Check Valve (#ACV1K): One-way valve that does not allow water back into the membrane
housing. It looks like a standard fitting and is located on the RO water port of the membrane
housing CTO Carbon Block Filter (#FC15): 3rd stage. 5-micron 10" carbon block filter. Further reduces
any residual chlorine, tastes, and odors before the water reaches the RO membraneDrain Saddle (#ADS1): Attaches to your under-sink drain pipe to secure the drain tube coming
from the systemDrinking Faucet (#GA1-BN): The output source for the RO water. The faucet is a non-air gap
faucet with a 1/4" tubing connection. The optimall y sized counter-top hole for the faucet is 1/2",
but holes up to approximately 1 1/2" will workElbow Fittings (#4044 K): Quick connect elbow fittings used on the system (except the membrane
housing and cap). 1/4" tubing connection and 1/4" NPT male threadFeed Water Adapter (#AFW43): It goes in line with your cold water line and branches off a
water supply line to the RO system. Can adapt to 3/8" and 1/2" cold water lines Feed Water Solenoid Valve (#ASOW7): Opens the water supply to the booster pump when the
low-pressure switch and high-pressure switch are both on. Shuts off the water supply when one or
both turn offFlow Restrictor (#AFR300): Limits the drain water flow, keeping pressure in the system and
allowing the RO process to occur
Flow Sensor Switch* (#FSS): Detects water flow to turn the UV filter on and off as needed
GAC Filter (#FG15): 2nd stage. 5-micron 10" granulated activat ed carb on filter . Reduces chlorine,
tastes, and odors from the water
GPD: Gallons Per Day
High-Pressure Switch (#AHP1): Receives p ressure signals from the p ressurized storage tank. It
turns on when the tank pressure is below 20 psi and turns off when tank pressure reaches 45 psi
(e.g., tank full)Housing Wrench for Membrane Housing (#AWR1): Housing wrench used to screw on and
unscrew the membrane housing cap Housing Wrench for Stages 1, 2, and 3 (#AWR2): Housing wrench used to screw on and
unscrew the stage 1, 2, and 3 filter housings Ice Maker Kit (#ICEK ): Add on kit that allows you to run water from the system to your fridge
ice maker or fridge water dispenserLeak Stopper (#ALS1): Protects from an y possible leaks by cutting off the water supply when the
sponge absorbs waterLow-Pressure Switch (#ALP1): Turns on when the s ource water pressur e reaches 6 psi, turns off
when source water pressure drops below 6 psi
Membrane Housing and Cap (#NW12): Horizontal housing that the RO membrane is inserted
intoMembrane Housing O-Ring (#ORM): 2 1/2" O.D. O-ring used to create the seal between the
membrane housing and the membrane capPost Carbon Filter (#FT15): 5th stage. Works as a final polishing filter before the water is
delivered to the faucet
PPM: Parts Per Million, a unit used to measure TDS readings
Pressurized Holding Tank (#T32M): 3.2 gallons capaci t y pressuriz ed wat er hol ding tan k. The ai r
bladder forces the water to the drinking faucet when the faucet is opened. The tank comes prepressurized and should read 7-10 psi when empty
PSI: Pounds Per Square Inch, a unit used to measure water pressure
Quick Connect Fitting: A secure, easy-to-connect, and disconnect type of fitting used on the
system. The tubing is inserted past the tiny O-ring located inside each fitting, then locked into place
by the spider lock and blue clipReverse Osmosis (RO) Membrane (#MC7): 4th stage. High rejection, 0.0001 micron, thin-film
composite (TFC) reverse osmosis membrane, the heart of the reverse osmosis processSediment Filter (#FP15 ): 1st stage. 5-micron 10" polypropylene sediment filter. Traps particulate
matter such as dirt, rust, and silt Stage 1, 2, and 3 housing O-Rings (#ORF): 3 5/8" O.D. O-ring us ed to create the seal between
the stage 1, 2, and 3 filter housings and their respective caps Stage 1 See-Through Sediment Filter Housing (#HC12): Transparent stage 1 housing holds the
sediment filter. The see-through housing allows for the sediment filter to be visually inspected
Stage 2 GAC Filter Housing (#HW12): Solid white housing that holds the stage 2 GAC filter
Stage 3 CTO Filter Housing (#HW12): Solid white housing that holds the stage 3 CTO filter
T Fitting on Stage 5 Post Carbon Filter (#7544K): T fitting located on the right side of the stage
5 Post Carbon Filter
Tank Valve (#ABV2K): On/off valve that screws onto the top of the tank
TDS: Total Dissolved Solids, a measure of the contamination level of a water source
TDS Meter (#TDS3): Handheld meter used to measure water quality
Transformer for Bo oster Pump (#ATRF5): Power supply used for the PMP5 booster pump on
residential iSpring RO systems
Tubing (#T14B / #T14W): 1/4" food grade tubing used on the system
UV Replacement Bulb* (#UVB11): Replacement bulb for the UV filter
UV Transformer/B allast* (#UVT11A/UVT11B): Power supply for the UV filter. Indicator lights
on the ballast will only light up when water is flowing. UVF11A is for 110V power sources,
UVF11B is for 220V power sources
This Limited Warranty extends to the o riginal purchaser of the system only. This warranty covers all Manufacturersupplied items only that prove to be defective in material, workmanship, or factory preparation. This warranty covers
parts only; all labor is excluded from this warranty, including, but not limited to, services related to the removal,
replacement, installation, adj ustment, maintenance, a nd/or repair of the unit or its components items. Excl udes all nonManufacturer labor required for any servicing of the unit, including, but not limited to, servicing related to installation,
adjustment, maintenance, and repair of the unit. This warranty applies only for the first full calendar year from the date
of purchase. The following items are excluded from this warranty: membranes, filters, O-rings, and all other parts or
components that require regular replacement as a result of ordinary usage.
Disclaimers: This Limited Warranty applies only if the system is installed, used, and maintained in compliance with all
instructions and requirements enclosed with the system. This warranty will be void for failure to observe the following
conditions:
1. The system is to be used with a potable water supply only.
2. Feed water pressure to the unit is no less t han 45 psi (30 psi for systems with b uilt-in booster pump) and no gre ater
than 70 psi.
3. The system is to be used on water supplies with chlorine concentrations of 1.0 mg/L (ppm) or less.
4. Feed water temperature to the unit must be no less than 40°F and no more than 100°F.
5. Total dissolved solids (TDS) in feed water must be less than 750 mg/L (ppm).
6. Feed water must have a pH between 4 and 8.
7. Turbidity must be less than 1.0 NTU.
8. SDI must be less than 5.
9. Feed water must be completely free of iron, manganese, or hydrogen sulfide.
While the testing was performed under standard laboratory conditions, actual performance may vary. The Manufacturer
does not know the characteristics of your water supply. The quality of water supplies may vary seasonally or over a
while. Your water usage may differ as well. Water characteristics can also change if the drinking water appliance is
moved to a new location. The Manufacturer assumes no liability for determining the proper equipment necessary to
meet your requirements, and we do not authorize others to take such obligation on our behalf.
This Limited Warranty does not cover any Manufacturer-supplied items that are defective as a result of the use of
improper parts, equipment or materials. This warranty does not cover alterations or modifications of the unit or failure
of a unit caused by such alterations and modifications.
This Limited Warranty does not cover malfunction s of the unit due to tampering, misuse, alteration, lack of regular
maintenance, misapplication, fouling due to hydrogen sulfide, manganese or iron, scaling from excessive hardness,
turbidity greater tha n 1.0 NTU, S ilt Density Index (SDI) greater than 5.0 SDI, or excess ive membrane hydrolysis due to
chlorine levels over 1.0 mg/L (ppm). In addition, damage to the unit due to fire, accident, negligence, the act of God, or
events beyond the Manufacturer's control is not covered by this warranty.
Incidental and Conse quential Damages Limitatio n: T he Manufacturer will not be responsible for any incidental or
consequential damages as a result o f the failure of this unit to comply with express or implied warranties or any defect
in the unit, including but not limited to, lost time, inconvenience, damage to personal property, loss of revenue,
commercial losses, postage, travel, telephone expenditures, or other losses of this nature. In case some states do not
allow the exclusion or limitatio n of incidental or consequential d amages, you may choose to r eturn the system. If you
choose to keep it, you insist this exclusion STILL apply to you.
Owner's Warranty Respons ibilities: As a condition of this Limited Warranty, the owner must ensure that periodic
maintenance of the system is performed as described in the literature enclosed with the system. Neglect, improper
maintenance, abuse, modification, or alteration of the unit will inva lidate this Warr anty. Should yo ur unit develop a
defect or otherwise fail to perform by this warranty, you should contact the retailer from whom the product was
originally purchased.
Implied Warranties: The implied at-law warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose shall
terminate on the date one year after the date of purchase.
NOTE: IN CASE SOME STATES DO NOT AL LOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW LONG AN IMPLIED W ARRANT Y
LASTS, YOU MAY CHOOSE TO RETURN THE SYSTEM. IF YOU CHOOSE TO KEEP IT, YOU AGREE THAT
THE ABOVE LIMITATIONS STILL APPLY TO YOU.
To register your product for the warranty, visit our website at 123filter.com and go to the
“Warranty” tab.
We provide a 30-day money back guarantee, a 1-year manufacturer warranty, and lifetime tech
support for all of our products. However, we do not have the order information from websites other
than 123Filter.com (Amazon, Home Depot, etc.), so please be sure to fill in that information upon
registration of your system. If you have any questions or concerns about your product, please do
not hesitate to call or email us, or put it in the notes/comments upon your warranty registration.
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