ididit Cable Shift Linkage Kit Column to GM Transmission User Manual

Page 1
Cable Shift Installation Instructions for:
ididit Column to GM Trans
www.ididitinc.com
ididit Column to 350 Trans.....................................PG1-4
ididit Column to 400 Trans.....................................PG5-8
ididit Column to 700R4 & 4L60 Series Trans.....PG9-12
ididit is...
For #’s
2801000010, 2802000010
ididit inc. 610 S. Maumee St. Tecumseh, MI 49286
PH: 517-424-0577 FAX: 517-424-7293
Instruction # 8000010153 REV 01/13
Page 2
ididit Column to 350 Trans
Your kit should contain the following parts:
A.) Transmission Lever B.) Pan Bracket C.) Spacers D.) Cotter Pins E.) Swivels F.) Shift Cable G.) Horseshoe Bracket H.) Two Piece Bracket
A.
H.
E.
C.
D.
B.
G.
2 Transmission pan bolts are required. They will need to be 1/4”
longer than the stock bolts. You will need to purchase these after
determining whether you need Metric or American.
Before installation please read:
You will need at least 2” of clearance between the rewall and lower shift lever for this product to function correctly.
Melted Cables: If your cable is too close to your exhaust it will melt or
become brittle. If this is the case you will need to make a heat shield. Do not wrap the cable as this retains heat. Heat will destroy the cable.
Kinked Cables: Do not kink the cable anywhere along its length. If the cable has a kink it will lock up. The cable should be kept straight for 2” on each end where it leaves the bracket. Either of the above could damage the cable, shifter, and/or transmission in one shift.
1
Page 3
1. Remove the 4 screws from the shift lever at the bottom of the steering column and set the screws and the lever safely aside.
2. Take the cable bracket and
loosen the nut and bolt so that the clamp will loosen a little. Put the clamp on the column with the small end appx. 5 o’clock looking at the column from the front of the vehicle. (Actually, anywhere would work because the clamp is indexable). The hole on the small end of the clamp should face the front of the vehicle. Do not tighten yet.
3. The gearshift lever will need a hole drilled exactly 2” from the center of the large hole towards the linkage hole, in the center of the shift lever arm. The hole should be 5/16” or .312 in diameter, no larger!
4. If your designer eye tells you that you want to cut
off the access of the shift arm that is ne. Take a
look at the diagram to the right to see how we did this.
Trim if you want to!
5. The cable is the next
piece that you are looking for. Notice that both ends are the same. We did that so that you could
be right the rst time. You will need to take
the small nut and the rubber boots off so that you can get one large nut and washer off. Put the cable through he bracket from the bottom
side of the bracket and reinstall the large nut, washer and boots. Try to center the nuts and washers on the available threads. This is important later.
2
Page 4
6. Push the cable down through its outer cover so that it will be as short as possible. Put the column in
Park. Now, gure out where you want the bracket to
be, 5 o’clock will probably be a good place. Install the swivel on the small thread and turn it until it is centered on the thread. Now, install the small nut and turn it until it bottoms out on the swivel. Do not tighten yet.
7. Reinstall the shift lever as close to the swivel as possible. Now you could turn the bracket or loosen the large nut and adjust so that the swivel goes into the 5/16” hole that you drilled in the shift arm. Insert the cotter pin in the swivel, tighten the large nut and bolt on the bracket. Do not tighten so much that it squeezes the delrin bushing in the bottom of the column. This could make it hard to shift. Remember, the cable has to be pushed down completely.
8. Route the cable towards the rear of the vehicle and then turn it in a nice U shape. Stay away from exhaust pipes. If this cable gets too close, it will melt and not work at all. This is very important.
9. Looking at the side of the transmission, remove the stock shift lever and the two pan bolts marked with X’s. Save the nut and washer from the shift lever and the two pan bolts.
10. The two transmission pan bolts could be either Metric or American
threads. You will need to purchase two bolts 1/4” longer than the two
that you removed. Spacers need to be placed between the bracket and the transmission pan with the two longer bolts holding it all together in the holes of the bracket as shown.
3
Page 5
11. Install the transmission shift lever so that the squared end is closest to the front of the vehicle. Add the washer and the nut to hold it in place.
12. Take the small nut, two rubber boots, and one large nut and washer off the transmission end of the cable. Insert the cable into the bracket. Reinstall the large washer, nut and two boots. Rotate the shift lever clockwise to the park position. Now you are going to put the swivel onto the threaded end of the cable and turn it until it lines up with the middle hole of the shift lever. Install the cotter pin. If it needs more travel, loosen the large nuts and washers and move the cable forward or backward to gain more travel. Then retighten the large nuts and washers. Install the small nut and tighten.
13. Try to shift the column. You may experience a
tight pattern, if so slightly loose the bracket around the column. This should allow the column to move easier. If not check that the cable is in alignment from the bracket to the lever.
Cable Adjustment: If you do not adjust the cable correctly you could
damage the cable, shifter and/or transmission. Put the trans in Low gear and the shifter in Low gear, set the swivel so it slides in and out of the correct hole freely. Then move the transmission and shifter to Park (all the way the other way). Rotate the cable swivel until it slips in and out of the
hole freely. Now go back and forth between Park and Low gear and ne
tune the adjustment. See instructions for further detail.
4
Page 6
ididit Column to 400 Trans
Your kit should contain the following parts:
A.) Transmission Lever B.) Pan Bracket C.) Spacers D.) Cotter Pins E.) Swivels F.) Shift Cable G.) Horseshoe Bracket H.) Two Piece Bracket
G.
H.
E.
D.
B.
C.
A.
2 Transmission pan bolts are required. They will need to be 1/4”
longer than the stock bolts. You will need to purchase these after
determining whether you need Metric or American.
Before installation please read:
You will need at least 2” of clearance between the rewall and
lower shift lever for this product to function correctly.
Melted Cables: If your cable is too close to your exhaust it will melt or
become brittle. If this is the case you will need to make a heat shield. Do not wrap the cable as this retains heat. Heat will destroy the cable.
Kinked Cables: Do not kink the cable anywhere along its length. If the cable has a kink it will lock up. The cable should be kept straight for 2” on each end where it leaves the bracket. Either of the above could damage the cable, shifter, and/or transmission in one shift.
5
Page 7
1. Remove the 4 screws from the shift lever at the bottom of the steering column and set the screws and the lever safely aside.
2. Take the cable bracket and
loosen the nut and bolt so that the clamp will loosen a little. Put the clamp on the column with the small end appx. 5 o’clock looking at the column from the front of the vehicle. (Actually, anywhere would work because the clamp is indexable). The hole on the small end of the clamp should face the front of the vehicle. Do not tighten yet.
3. The gearshift lever will need a hole drilled exactly 2” from the center of the large hole towards the linkage hole, in the center of the shift lever arm. The hole should be 5/16” or .312 in diameter, no larger!
4. If your designer eye tells you that you want to cut
off the access of the shift arm that is ne. Take a
look at the diagram to the right to see how we did this.
Trim if you want to!
5. The cable is the next
piece that you are looking for. Notice that both ends are the same. We did that so that you could
be right the rst time. You will need to take
the small nut and the rubber boots off so that you can get one large nut and washer off. Put the cable through he bracket from the bottom
side of the bracket and reinstall the large nut, washer and boots. Try to center the nuts and washers on the available threads. This is important later.
6
Page 8
6. Push the cable down through its outer cover so that it will be as short
as possible. Put the column in Park. Now, gure out where you want
the bracket to be, 5 o’clock will probably be a good place. Install the swivel on the small thread and turn it until it is centered on the thread. Now, install the small nut and turn it until it bottoms out on the swivel. Do not tighten yet.
7. Reinstall the shift lever as close to the swivel as possible. Now you could turn the bracket or loosen the large nut and adjust so that the swivel goes into the 5/16” hole that you drilled in the shift arm. Insert the cotter pin in the swivel, tighten the large nut and bolt on the bracket. Do not tighten so much that it squeezes the delrin bushing in the bottom of the column. This could make it hard to shift. Remember, the cable has to be pushed down completely.
8. Route the cable towards the rear of the vehicle and then turn it in a nice U shape. Stay away from exhaust pipes. If this cable gets too close, it will melt and not work at all. This is very important.
9. Looking at the side of the transmission, remove the stock shift lever and the two pan bolts marked with X’s. Save the nut and washer from the shift lever and the two pan bolts.
10. The two transmission pan bolts could be either Metric or American
threads. You will need to purchase two bolts 1/4” longer than the two
that you removed. Spacers need to be placed between the bracket and the transmission pan with the two longer bolts holding it all together in the holes of the bracket as shown.
7
Page 9
11. Install the transmission shift lever so that the squared end is closest to the front of the vehicle. Add the washer and the nut to hold it in place.
12. Take the small nut, two rubber boots, and one large nut and washer off the transmission end of the cable. Insert the cable into the bracket. Reinstall the large washer, nut and two boots. Rotate the shift lever clockwise to the park position. Now you are going to put the swivel onto the threaded end of the cable and turn it until it lines up with the middle hole of the shift lever. Install the cotter pin. If it needs more travel, loosen the large nuts and washers and move the cable forward or backward to gain more travel. Then retighten the large nuts and washers. Install the small nut and tighten.
13. Try to shift the column. You may experience a
tight pattern, if so slightly loose the bracket around the column. This should allow the column to move easier. If not check that the cable is in alignment from the bracket to the lever.
Cable Adjustment: If you do not adjust the cable correctly you could
damage the cable, shifter and/or transmission. Put the trans in Low gear and the shifter in Low gear, set the swivel so it slides in and out of the correct hole freely. Then move the transmission and shifter to Park (all the way the other way). Rotate the cable swivel until it slips in and out of the
hole freely. Now go back and forth between Park and Low gear and ne
tune the adjustment. See instructions for further detail.
8
Page 10
ididit Column to 700R4 Trans
Your kit should contain the following parts:
A.) Transmission Lever B.) Pan Bracket C.) Spacers D.) Cotter Pins E.) Swivels F.) Shift Cable G.) Horseshoe Bracket H.) Two Piece Bracket
G.
E.
D.
H.
B.
C.
A.
2 Transmission pan bolts are required. They will need to be 1/4”
longer than the stock bolts. You will need to purchase these after
determining whether you need Metric or American.
Before installation please read:
You will need at least 2” of clearance between the rewall and
lower shift lever for this product to function correctly.
Melted Cables: If your cable is too close to your exhaust it will melt or
become brittle. If this is the case you will need to make a heat shield. Do not wrap the cable as this retains heat. Heat will destroy the cable.
Kinked Cables: Do not kink the cable anywhere along its length. If the cable has a kink it will lock up. The cable should be kept straight for 2” on each end where it leaves the bracket. Either of the above could damage the cable, shifter, and/or transmission in one shift.
9
Page 11
1. Remove the 4 screws from the shift lever at the bottom of the steering column and set the screws and the lever safely aside.
2. Take the cable bracket and
loosen the nut and bolt so that the clamp will loosen a little. Put the clamp on the column with the small end appx. 5 o’clock looking at the column from the front of the vehicle. (Actually, anywhere would work because the clamp is indexable). The hole on the small end of the clamp should face the front of the vehicle. Do not tighten yet.
3. The gearshift lever will need a hole drilled exactly 2” from the center of the large hole towards the linkage hole, in the center of the shift lever arm. The hole should be 5/16” or .312 in diameter, no larger!
4. If your designer eye tells you that you want to cut
off the access of the shift arm that is ne. Take a
look at the diagram to the right to see how we did this.
Trim if you want to!
5. The cable is the next
piece that you are looking for. Notice that both ends are the same. We did that so that you could
be right the rst time. You will need to take
the small nut and the rubber boots off so that you can get one large nut and washer off. Put the cable through he bracket from the bottom
side of the bracket and reinstall the large nut, washer and boots. Try to center the nuts and washers on the available threads. This is important later.
10
Page 12
6. Push the cable down through its outer cover so that it will be as short
as possible. Put the column in Park. Now, gure out where you want
the bracket to be, 5 o’clock will probably be a good place. Install the swivel on the small thread and turn it until it is centered on the thread. Now, install the small nut and turn it until it bottoms out on the swivel. Do not tighten yet.
7. Reinstall the shift lever as close to the swivel as possible. Now you could turn the bracket or loosen the large nut and adjust so that the swivel goes into the 5/16” hole that you drilled in the shift arm. Insert the cotter pin in the swivel, tighten the large nut and bolt on the bracket. Do not tighten so much that it squeezes the delrin bushing in the bottom of the column. This could make it hard to shift. Remember, the cable has to be pushed down completely.
8. Route the cable towards the rear of the vehicle and then turn it in a nice U shape. Stay away from exhaust pipes. If this cable gets too close, it will melt and not work at all. This is very important.
9. Looking at the side of the transmission, remove the stock shift lever and the two pan bolts marked with X’s. Save the nut and washer from the shift lever and the two pan bolts.
10. The two transmission pan bolts could be either Metric or American
threads. You will need to purchase two bolts 1/4” longer than the two
that you removed. Spacers need to be placed between the bracket and the transmission pan with the two longer bolts holding it all together in the holes of the bracket as shown.
11
Page 13
11. Install the transmission shift lever so that the round end is closest to the front of the vehicle. Add the washer and the nut to hold it in place.
12. Take the small nut, two rubber boots, and one large nut and washer off the transmission end of the cable. Insert the cable into the bracket. Reinstall the large washer, nut and two boots. Rotate the shift lever clockwise to the park position. Now you are going to put the swivel onto the threaded end of the cable and turn it until it lines up with the forward hole of the shift lever. Install the cotter pin. If it needs more travel, loosen the large nuts and washers and move the cable forward or backward to gain more travel. Then retighten the large nuts and washers. Install the small nut and tighten.
13. Try to shift the column. You may experience a
tight pattern, if so slightly loose the bracket around the column. This should allow the column to move easier. If not check that the cable is in alignment from the bracket to the lever.
Cable Adjustment: If you do not adjust the cable correctly you could
damage the cable, shifter and/or transmission. Put the trans in Low gear and the shifter in Low gear, set the swivel so it slides in and out of the correct hole freely. Then move the transmission and shifter to Park (all the way the other way). Rotate the cable swivel until it slips in and out of the
hole freely. Now go back and forth between Park and Low gear and ne
tune the adjustment. See instructions for further detail.
12
Page 14
Warnings!!! Please read!!!
You will need at least 2” of clearance between the rewall and lower
shift lever for this product to function correctly.
Melted Cables: If your cable is too close to your exhaust it will melt or
become brittle. If this is the case you will need to make a heat shield. Do not wrap the cable as this retains heat. Heat will destroy the cable.
Kinked Cables: Do not kink the cable anywhere along its length. If the cable has a kink it will lock up. The cable should be kept straight for 2” on each end where it leaves the brass. Either of the above could damage the cable, shifter, and/or transmission in one shift.
Cable Adjustment: If you do not adjust the cable correctly you could damage the cable, shifter and/or transmission. Put the trans in Low gear and the shifter in Low gear, set the swivel so it slides in and out of the cor­rect hole freely. Then move the transmission and shifter to Park (all the way the other way). Rotate the cable swivel until it slips in and out of the
hole freely. Now go back and forth between Park and Low gear and ne
tune the adjustment. See instructions for further detail.
If you are having problems with your installation
please contact us at:
PH: (517) 424-0577 or email: tech@ididitinc.com
M-F 8:30a-5:30p EST
Sat. 10:00a-2:00p
www.ididitinc.com
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Page 15
Think you may have forgotten something?
Here’s what you may have missed:
Add Ons: (Add Ons should be installed on the column prior to shipment)
Cruise Control: Carbureted Engine or Fuel Injected Engine?
Dimmer or Wiper: Dimmer/Wiper Kits will replace the original knobs and
levers that come standard on an ididit column. This is a replacement lever with a push button at the end of the knob. The Dimmer/Wiper kit when pushed is either On or Off. Includes relay kit.
Accessories:
Steering Wheel: We cannot recommend any brand of wheel because there are
so many to choose from. If you are having a hard time guring out if a wheel you
had purchased will work with an adaptor or an ididit column, simply give us a call.
Steering Wheel Adaptor: Unless using original 1969 & Up Steering Wheel you
will need an adaptor. The adaptor may depend on the wheel. ididit recommends purchasing the Steering Wheel prior to purchasing the adaptor. 3, 5, 6 or 9-Bolt
Adaptors are Available with nishes of Chrome, Black Powder Coated, Brushed
or Polished Aluminum. The adaptors are available with or without Horn Buttons.
Under dash Mount (A.K.A. Column Drop): A solid under dash mount is very
necessary when installing your steering column. ididit offers several variations of under dash mounts for Floor Shift & Column Shift Columns. When measuring for your column drop, measure from the center of the column to the dash (see diagram).
Floor Mount: Like the under dash mount this piece is very necessary when
installing your steering column safely. ididit offers a Classic Floor Mount, Swivel Ball Floor Mount, Adjustable Floor Mount with or without a trim piece. Available for any ididit Steering Column.
Shift Indicator: Shift indicators available are 3 or 4-speed transmissions. ididit
also carries shift indicators for Ford AOD & AODE transmissions. The indicators
are acrylic and can be ordered with or without the housing. The housing nishes
include: Chrome, Black Powder Coated, Brushed or Polished Aluminum.
Accessory Knobs for Levers or Dash: Deco or Retro knobs are available to re-
place the standard knobs that come standard on the column or if you plan on match­ing those knobs to your dash knobs. Deco knobs are only available in Polished Alu­minum. Standard and Retro Knobs are available in Chrome, Black Powder Coated, Brushed or Polished Aluminum.
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Page 16
No part of this guide may be reprinted, reproduced or utilized in any
form without the express written permission of ididit, inc.
2009 ididit, inc.
All Rights Reserved
Printed in the USA
ididit, inc.
610 S. Maumee St., Tecumseh, MI 49286
(517) 424-0577 • (517) 424-7293 fax
www.ididitinc.com
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