Ice Bicycle 2012, Adventure 2014, Sprint 2014, VTX 2014, 2012 Adventure Owner's Manual

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2012 Trike Owners Manual

1.0 Introduction

1.1 Overview

1.2 Adjusting and closing quick-releases

2.0 Adjusting your ICE trike

2.1 Tyre pressure

2.2 Folding and unfolding (not vortex)

2.2a Suspension adjustment

2.2b Front suspension adjustment

2.3 Mesh seat cover

2.3a Seat angle adjustment

2.4 Hardshell seat adjustment

2.5 Tailor fitting your hardshell seat

2.6 Leg length

2.7 Seat brackets

2.8 Brake lever adjustment

3.0 ICE optional accessories

4.0 Riding your ICE trike

4.1 Getting on and off the trike

4.2 Initial test ride

4.3 Stopping in a low gear

4.4 Relax

4.5 Cornering

4.6 Handling

4.7 Brakes

4.8 Hill climbing

4.9 Descending a hill

4.10 Ground clearance

4.11 Muscles

5.0 Maintenance

5.1 Lubrication

5.2 Adjusting derailleurs

5.3 Drum brakes

5.4 Disc brakes

5.5 Rear brake

5.6 Drivetrain

5.7 The frame

5.8 Tyres, tubes, & wheels

5.9 Suspension

5.10 Adjusting the tracking

5.11 Storage

5.12 Frame number

5.13 Recommended minimum tools and spares

5.14 First service

6.0 Safety

7.0 Other important information

7.1 Recumbent/trike forums on the Internet

7.2 Warranty information

7.3 Liability information

7.4 Legal requirements

7.5 Contacting us
Appendix A: Tyre pressures
Appendix B: Tightening torques
Accessories

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1.0 Introduction

Congratulations on being a new ICE trike owner.
You have purchased the finest, most refined
recumbent tricycle available today; we hope it
brings you many years of enjoyment.

This manual has been written to help you set up
and use your trike. Recumbent trikes may be
a little different from the cycles you are familiar
with, so please take a moment to read through
this document. You will find the latest version of
this manual in a download-able PDF format on
our website.

Throughout the manual, we have included
some tips, which have been learned from over
20 years of experience building trikes. They are
well worth taking special note of.

If you have never worked on a bike before,
you should consider purchasing a good book
on bicycle maintenance. The ICE trikes use
as many standard bicycle components as
possible, and their adjustment and maintenance
is no different from an upright bicycle. We can
recommend Lennard Zinn’s “Zinn and the Art of
Mountain Bike Maintenance” as a thorough
and easy-to-read reference.

If you are assembling your trike for the first time,
please refer to the ICE Trikes Assembly Manual.

We hope you enjoy owning and riding your ICE
trike as much as we like making these great
machines.

On the off-chance that you have any issues with
your trike please contact your dealer or ICE HQ.
(see contact details towards the back of this
Manual)

1.1 Overview

ICE Sprint RS used in this example.

5

i

TIP:

Experiment but always go for a

reasonable (a mile or two) test ride

to decide if an adjustment is right for

you.

1.2 Adjusting and closing quick-releases

Quick-releases are used in a number of places
on your trike; it is important that they are
tightened correctly. A quick-release that isn’t
fully and properly closed can result in parts
coming loose or moving while riding. This could
cause a serious accident. A quick-release
system consists of two basic parts: a lever that
provides the clamping force and an adjusting
nut that alters the clamping tension.

With the part you are clamping located
properly, adjust the quick-release by opening
it, holding both ends and turning one clockwise
until, when you close the lever, you feel some
resistance. At this point, try to close the lever
fully. The adjustment is correct when you can
fully close the lever, but with some effort (the
lever should leave its impression in the palm of
your hand).

If you can only close the lever part way, open
it, unscrew the adjusting nut slightly and try
again. If it closes too easily, tighten it up a tiny
bit and try again. Do not try to tighten the quick­release by winding the lever around; it will not
tighten enough to be safe.

i

2.0 Adjusting your ICE trike

TIP:

When assembling your trike,

please refer to the table in the

appendix for the proper tightening

torques for all fasteners. Do not

overtighten.

Fine-tuning for leg length, seat angle, handle
bar width / angle, brake lever reach, tyre
pressure etc are all well worth taking time to
set to your personal preference.

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2.1 Tyre pressure

Typical tyre pressure for the standard tyres
is about 70psi (4.6 bar). Do not inflate the
tyres more than the maximum pressure
recommended on the tyre sidewalls. You
will need to experiment a bit to find the tyre
pressure that suits you best. Higher pressures
will allow the trike roll more easily, but will
transmit more road shock to the rider. Lower
pressures will feel much more comfortable,
but there can be more rolling resistance.
Also try experimenting with tyres; there are
now large cruiser tyres available which can
provide a comfortable ride and reasonably
low rolling resistance, as well as small high­pressure racing tyres that offer very-low rolling
resistance and sport’s-car type handling.

2.2 Folding and unfolding (Not Vortex 2012)

Folding and unfolding your trike is very simple. After you have practiced it a few times, you will be
able to do it easily in under a minute.
To fold your trike:

Unscrew the knobs under the front of the seat
and slide the clips off the frame cup in which
the seat sits. They should be left at the end of
the screws as seen here. They are there to
prevent the knob from being unwound too far
and falling out.

Release the QR (Quick Release) on the seat
post.
Remove the seat.

Undo the QR on the hinge. Release the QR on each handlebar and
swing it backwards until each is horizontal.
Re-fasten each QR.

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Swing the rear section of the frame up and to
the left. Be sure to lift the chaintubes as shown
in the photo. This will allow the chain to fold
over properly.

Put the neoprene mat between any parts that

touch after the fold.

Swing the QR and its connecting pin
backwards 90 degrees.
Lift the QR and its pin to release the safety
catch.

Unfolding your trike is the same sequence in
reverse order. To unfold your trike:

• Swing the rear section of the frame up and
to the left and then down to the unfolded
position.

• Put the neoprene mat in a safe place for
next time you fold the trike.

• Lift the QR (Quick Release) latch to retract
the safety pin, and close the hinge. Make
sure the safety pin is properly engaged.

• Swing the QR and its connecting pin
forwards 90 degrees (into the slot on the
front part of the hinge).

• Tighten the QR on the hinge. If the QR is
loose, the adjusting nut may be tightened
slightly.

• Release the QR on each handlebar and
swing them forward until each is vertical.
Re-fasten each QR.

• Put the seat in place and slide the clips on
the bottom seat rail over the frame cup in
which the seat sits.

• Tighten the knobs under the front of the
seat.

• Secure the seat angle adjustment onto the
QR and tighten the QR.

• Make sure everything is secure before
riding your trike.

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2.2a Suspension adjustment

The front and rear suspension can both be fine­tuned to work well for you. The rear suspension
can be adjusted by a combination of selecting
one of three different hardness and five different
fitting positions for the elastomer. The front
suspension can be adjusted by selecting one of
three different hardness elastomers. All trikes
come with medium elastomers fitted to both
front and rear suspensions. Other elastomers
are available for purchase from ICE.

Rear suspension

The adjustment is accomplished by the selection
of elastomers and mounting positions. The
elastomers are available in three hardnesses:
Yellow/Soft, Red/Medium, Green/Hard. There
are five mounting positions; the lowest/closest
to the main pivot (numbered 1 here) will make
the suspension feel softer. The highest/furthest
from the main pivot position (5) will make the
suspension feel harder.To setup the suspension
you will need to select an elastomer and position
it by using the table on page 9.

Elastomer positions

Unclip the rear suspension by pulling the
stainless steel clip on the left hand side over
its pin. The purpose of this clip is to keep the
rear swing arm from dangling when the trike is
picked up; it is only unclipped when changing
the elastomer .

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The elastomers have different compression
characteristics, and you may find other
combinations of elastomer hardness and pin
position which suit the roads you ride on and
your riding style better; it is just a matter of trying
different combinations. The elastomer system
is simple and small enough that you can carry
a couple of elastomers in your bag and change
them when you are out on a ride if you like.

If you ride on rough terrain or ride aggressively,
you may benefit from a harder elastomer. If you
are a leisurely rider, who rides predominantly on
smooth tarmac, you may be able to use a softer
elastomer. If the setup is too soft the trike may
not reach its optimised comfort setting.
If it is too hard comfort will be compromised.

You should generally get a better result with
the hardest elastomer recommended for your
weight, for example if your weight is 90kg use
the green elastomer in position 2 rather than red
in position 4.

If you are a light rider and have your suspension
setup soft it is advisable to adjust it to a firmer
setting; change for a harder elastomer if
necessary before allowing a significantly heavier
rider to sit on your trike, otherwise permanent
damage to the elastomer may occur.

With rear or full suspension, tyres can be run at
higher pressure while maintaining good comfort.
Contrary to popular belief, elastomers do not
significantly change stiffness with lower or higher
temperatures.

The elastomer is removed by pulling and
twisting it off the shock pin. With the back end
hinged open, screw the shock pin into the
required hole in the shock plate. Firmly push the
elastomer back onto the pin and close the swing
arm back onto the stainless steel clip.

The position you have selected using the
table above will give you a good starting point.
Your trike should perform properly like this;
however, it is worthwhile spending a little time
experimenting with settings to find one that suits
you best.

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2.2b Front suspension adjustment

Note: This operation is shown here with the wheel removed but it is possible to do it with the wheel in place. The elastomers are available in soft,

medium and hard. All of them are coloured yellow, and can be identified by the letters: S, M, & H printed on the end.

To remove the suspension elastomer, first
loosen the stop screw.

Compress the suspension unit and remove the
rubber bumper.

Slide the rubber gaiter off at the bottom.

Push the bottom of the elastomer out of the
locating hole.

Slide the bottom of the elastomer around to the
front of the king post.

It should now be easy to remove the elastomer
fully.

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4

3

2

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To replace the elastomer, first grease the
elastomer all over then slide it into the kingpost.

Push the bottom of the elastomer around to the
side and into the locating hole.

Apply soapy water to the gaiter groove to aid
fitting.

Slide on the rubber gaiter at the bottom,
checking to make sure that it is properly seated.

Compress the suspension unit and insert the
rubber bumper.

Tighten the stop screw.

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2.3 Mesh seat cover

When new, both the seat cover and the straps
stretch a little, and in the first few weeks of
use you may need to re-tension the seat by
tightening up the straps. In time it will settle
down. For maximum comfort you may need to
tighten the cover more in some places than in
others. In general, the base of the seat should
be tight, and the back looser.

2.3a seat angle
adjustment

The seat has 4 positions of adjustment, and
adjustment is simple and quick.

• Loosen the seat angle adjustment quick­release lever.

• If you want to make the seat more reclined
set it to the slots closest to the seat cup. If
you want to make the seat less reclined,
then set it to the slots furthest from the seat
cup.

• Re-tighten the seat angle adjustment
quick-release.

2.4 Hardshell seat
adjustment

In order to correctly mount your hardshell seat
onto the trike frame you will need to do the
following:

There are three positions where the top mount
brackets can be fitted. Bolt the brackets onto the
seat shell using the appropriate set of pre drilled
holes for the model of trike that you have.
Assemble seat then check / adjust the position
that the rear section of the frame is inserted into
the main frame.

Bolt the notched plates to the brackets if
required. The plates are used to give a range
of easy to adjust seat angles. On the Vortex the
brackets can be used on their own without the
notched plates if you require maximum recline.

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Clamp bolts

Vortex

Sprint

Bolt the brackets to the seat
shell as shown.

M5 x16mm bolt

Alloy washer

Seat shell

Adventure (Large hard-shell
is interchangeable with the
mesh seat if this bracket
position is used)

Assemble the seat as shown below and attach the
seat to the frame at the front mount. Check that the
bracket is aligned with the holes in the backend as
shown right. If it does not line up correctly you will
need to loosen the backend clamp bolts and slide
the backend in or out until it is correct.

Line up the
holes here

Line up the
holes here

Line up the
holes here

Front. Rear

BracketFront mount

Clamp bolts

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Vortex Sprint Adventure

Bolt the notched plates to the brackets. The plates are used to give a range of easy to adjust seat angles. On the Vortex the brackets can be used on
their own without the notched plates if you require maximum recline.

Use QR or
bolt in forward
position

Front. Rear

Use QR or
bolt in rear
position

Use QR or
bolt in rear
position

On the Vortex the brackets can be
used without the notched plates
like this if you require maximum
recline.

Brackets only without the notched plates
should be positioned closer together so
that the space between fits the width of
the mount point on the frame.

Note: the brackets have
slotted bolt holes so that
they can be positioned
with or without the extra
plates.
The bracket should be slid
to the correct position and
the bolts all tightened.

When using the notched plates the brackets
should be positioned further apart so that
the plates fit the mount point on the frame.

Use QR or
bolt in forward
position

M6 x16mm
bolt

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2.5 Tailor tting your

hardshell seat

A lot of time went into the design of the ICE Air­Pro seat and seat cover to make it suitable for a
wide range of people but obviously everyone is
a slightly different shape.

First ride your trike for a while with the standard
pads. There is a good chance you will find it
completely comfortable in which case you will
not need to use the pads at all.
If, however you are finding that the shape does
not suit you so well then the new seat pad
system has been designed to tailor the fit of your
ICE Air-Pro seat specifically for you, making this
the most customizable hard shell seat currently
on the market.

The kit comprised of 3 symmetrical pairs of foam
pads. These pads are designed to be fitted on
top of the ICE Air-Pro seat cover and can be
fitted pretty much anywhere you would like.

If you look on the back of each pad you will see
it has a raised strip down the centre with double­sided adhesive either side.

The raised strip on the back of each pad is there
to hold it in place whilst you are experimenting
with where to position the pads. It can be
pressed directly into any of the slots in the
seat cover and will stay put whilst you try it out
properly.

Don’t be too quick to get the pads stuck on
permanently, experimentation is the key here so
go out and give your trike a ride with the pads in
various positions to find what suits you best.

Sit on your trike, go for a ride on it and get used
to the feel of the seat shape.

• Try putting pads where you can feel gaps
or spaces between your back and the seat.

• Press the pads firmly down along the
middle to make the raised strip on the pad
engage properly with the grooves in the
seat cover.

• If you can feel a pressure point where your
back is pressing on a localised spot, do not
add a pad in that place, but pad around the
spot leaving a space in that area.

• Once you are fairly happy with the positions
they’re in, go for a few more rides.

• Be careful not to lose them if they should
get hooked up on your clothes.

• Now peel off the backing tape and stick the
pads on.

CAUTION:

When experimenting with

positioning your pads, do not remove

the tape. Once these pads are stuck

they are PERMANENT!.

!

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2.7 Seat brackets

If you cannot adjust the boom to fit you (either
it needs to be further in than the minimum
insertion mark or your heels are coming very
close to the cross axle of the frame), then ICE
offers accessory seat mounting brackets for
your trike.
The FF and FB (not FB on Vortex 2012, FF
can’t be fitted to Adventures) brackets are used
to move the position of the seat forward or back
when installed between the trike’s seat mount
and the seat. Contact ICE for more information
or download the Seat Bracket Instructions from
our website.

2.8 Brake lever adjustment

The position of the brake lever relative to the
handlebars (the ‘reach’) can be adjusted. It
can be useful to move the lever closer to the
handlebar for riders with smaller hands.

For disc brakes levers, there is a reach
adjustment screw on the underside of the
lever body, between the cable entry and the
handlebar clamp. Use a 2 mm hex key to adjust
the screw. The red knob, located on the outside
of the lever(only on Sprint X types and Vortex’s),
controls the leverage ratio of the brake lever.
The correct position for Avid BB7 brakes is with
the knob turned fully counter-clockwise, so that
the maximum amount of cable is pulled.

For Tektro hydraulic brakes, there is a red
adjustment knob on the outside of the lever near
the pivot. Adjust the position of the lever using
the adjuster screw to the desired lever reach.

For drum brakes, the lever has a reach
adjustment screw on the underside of the
lever body, between the cable entry and the
handlebar clamp. Use a 2 mm hex key to adjust
the screw. The other knob, located on the inside
of the lever, controls the leverage ratio of the
brake lever. Changing this setting changes the
amount of cable the lever pulls, and affects the
feel of the brakes. The usual position is with the
knob turned fully clockwise, so that the minimum
amount of cable is pulled (but with the maximum
power).

i

TIP:

It is easier to move the boom

if you get a helper to sit on the trike

with both front brakes on.

2.6 Leg length

A small adjustment can be quite noticeable, just
like adjusting the saddle on a conventional bike.

• Change gear to the smallest front and rear
chainring.

• Undo the two clamp bolts under the front
boom. They must be loose.

• Slide the front boom in or out by twisting
and pulling or pushing

• Check the boom is vertical, by eye. It’s not
necessary to measure anything, if it looks
upright, then it will be fine.

• Check that boom is not extended past the
MIN INSERT mark on the boom.

• Tighten the two front boom clamp bolts (or
quick releases) torque setting can be found
in Appendix B.

• If you have moved the boom by more than
approximately 10mm you will need to check
that you have the correct chain length (see
“Fitting the chain” section 2)

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3.0 ICE optional

accessories

Instructions for our accessories are now packed
with the accessory itself.

These include:

• Front mudguards

• Neck rest

• Full wrap rear mudguard

• Chainring guard

• Easy adjust chain management system

• Quick release kit

• Rear disc brake

If you require an additional copy of these
instructions, they may be downloaded from our
website at www.icetrikes.co under Support then
Manuals.

Pedals

We recommend the use of ‘clipless’ pedals.
There is more information in section 6 of this
manual. They are a safe way of attaching your
feet to the pedals, Remember, because you are
now riding a tricycle, there is no need to put your

feet down until you want to get off the trike.

4.0 Riding your ICE
trike

CAUTION:

If your feet fall from the

pedals when you are riding then they
could be dragged under the crossaxle
of the trike. Therefore the trike should

only be ridden with your feet securely

attached to the pedals; either with

special shoes and pedals which you

clip into, or toe clips and straps.

!

4.1 Getting on and off
your trike

Mesh seats

Getting on

Begin by standing in front of the cross axle with
one foot on either side of the front boom.
Now bend down and reach back to hold the side
of the seat to help lower yourself as you sit.
Try not to push or pull on the handle bars as you

get on and off.

Getting Off

This is much like getting on, but in reverse order.
Sit forward on the seat and put your feet firmly
on the ground. Reach behind you and hold the
side of the seat while you push yourself up into a
squatting position before standing up.

Trailers

If you plan to attach a trailer to your trike we
strongly recommend using a two wheeled trailer.
One wheeled trailers have no lateral stability
unlike the trike itself, so when cornering are able
to transmit large twisting loads into the trike,
possibly enough to cause serious damage to it.
Two wheeled trailers are naturally stable and so
do not cause this problem.

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2

Hardshell seat

CAUTION:

It is possible to damage

the Hardshell seat if these

instructions are not followed.

Not all parts of it are capable of

handling the weight of a full grown

person trying to get out of a trike.

Seats damaged in this way are not

covered under warranty.

!

Getting On
When attempting to sit in the Vortex, first place
one foot either side of the boom facing towards
the pedals.

Then bring the cruciform forwards so the cross
axle touches the back of your calves.

Then bend your legs placing one hand on the
seat and the other on the wheel.

When doing this, ensure you place your hand
on the front half of the wheel and apply pressure
going away from you.

Due to the Vortex’s low profile it is slightly more
difficult to get into than the other models.
Therefore please take extra care when getting in
and follow the method shown.

Avoid:

• Applying any pressure to the handle bars.

• Applying pressure to a single side of the

seat.

• Falling backwards onto the seat.

• Sitting towards the front edge of the seat.

• Sitting with items in the back pockets of

clothing.

19

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1 2 3

In the meantime, place the back of your hand
half way up the hardshell seat.

Slowly lower yourself into the seat and only
when sat, remove the pressure from the front
wheel and the seat.

You are then ready to ride.....

Getting Off
When getting off sit upright and place both
hands with the same positioning and pressure
as used for getting in.

Using the hand placed on the seat, push
your-self off the seat and onto your feet.

Only remove the pressure from the front wheel
once you are confidently back on two feet. Once
done you are good to go...

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4.3 Stopping in a low
gear

As with an ordinary bicycle it is best to get into
the habit of finishing your journey in an easy
gear so that you can pull away easily when you
start again.

4.4 Relax

Whilst riding sit back and relax.
DO NOT PULL ON THE HANDLEBARS;
just hold them lightly. The trike will tend to steer
itself in a straight line depending on the road
surface and camber.

i

TIP:

The steering of the

trike runs on ball bearings so

it is very smooth and requires

minimal effort to steer. The gear

cables run forward and backwards

and the spring effect in these cables

tend to make the trike slowly turn

to the left if you let go of

the handlebars completely.

This is normal and we don’t

recommend riding without holding at

least one of the handle bars or you will

not have proper control of the trike.

4.2 Initial test ride

Start on a flat piece of road or drive preferably
away from traffic. The front brakes are
independent so the left brake operates the left
front wheel and the right brake operates the right
wheel. Sit on the trike , clip in and make sure
you know where the brakes are and that they
stop you moving. Before you have ridden more
than a few yards, check the front brakes.

MAKE SURE YOU CAN STOP!

You should do this before each ride, as well as
checking your brakes for damage and wear.

Steering is very easy and natural and you
will soon become unaware of the movements
required.

Gear changing

As with any derailleur system you can only
change gear when you are pedalling and
moving forward. It is easier to change if you
are not putting a lot of force on the pedals,
particularly when changing from a high to a low
gear. The rear derailleur is operated by the right
shifter, and the front using the left shifter.

Do not change gear when the trike is rolling
backwards, as the chain will jam in the rear
derailleur and likely damage it. When you are
riding, you can make minor adjustments to the
indexing of the gears using the adjusters located
where the cables exit the shifters.

i

TIP:

Also try to anticipate hills and

change to a lower (easier) gear

before you get onto the steep part of

the hill hence avoiding changing

gear under pressure.

21

You should avoid riding the trike on two wheels.
It is possible to do, with considerable practice,
but it places unfair stresses on the wheels and
you will not be able to control the trike properly.

If you lock the back wheel (using the rear
parking or disk brake), it is possible to make
the back end of the trike skid around; this is the
so-called ‘handbrake turn’. While fun to do in a
quiet car park, this maneuver can cause a loss
of control, and should not be attempted around
other vehicles. It can also scrub the tread off an
expensive tyre in a very short time.

Heavy loads should be carried as low as
possible, and as much in the middle of the trike
as you can. Heavy loads mounted high on the
back of the trike will affect its handling, especially
at higher speeds and when cornering. Do not
carry a child in a child seat over the rear wheel.
Besides affecting the trike’s stability, the trike is
not heavy enough to sufficiently support a child
without someone sitting on it (it can fall over
when you get out of the seat).

For carrying children or heavy loads, we
recommend towing a trailer. There are plenty
of 2 wheeled trailers on the market, and they
can be very heavily loaded without affecting
the handling of the trike. Crash tests done in
Germany show a child is much safer in a trailer
than in a child seat.

4.7 Brakes

The front brakes are operated independently by
each main brake lever. The left lever operates
the left brake, and the right lever operates the
right brake. Normal braking should be done with
both levers together and evenly for excellent
stopping power; you will find your trike to be
very stable under braking. Unlike other trikes,
stopping using only one brake will not result in
the trike veering from its intended course. This
‘NoBrake-Steer’ geometry is a safety feature
that is an ICE innovation and is designed into
every trike we make.

Because your weight is being supported on 3
wheels rather than 2, you will find it easier to
lock up the brakes on the front wheels. The trike
will not roll over, but it will slide. Locked wheels
are hard on tyres, and are not as efficient for
braking as a wheel which is still turning.

When you are braking into corner, you will find
the unloaded inside wheel will lock up quite
easily. It is not a problem, but remember that the
lightly loaded wheel is not contributing much to
steering or braking the trike.

4.5 Cornering

Your trike is inherently very stable under normal
riding conditions. Cornering at high speed can
cause your trike to lift a wheel, or in worse
cases, roll over. Leaning into the corner can help
this, and is a fun technique that all trike riders
learn.

Take care on corners which have a ‘reverse
camber.’ Reverse camber is where the outside
of the corner is lower than the inside. On a
corner with reverse camber, the trike will try to
move to the outside of the curve, which could
take you off the edge of the road, or into the
oncoming lane.

We recommend that you find a quiet smooth­surfaced area (such as a car park or firm grassy
field), and get a feel for handling your trike. Try
turning at various speeds to find the point where
your trike starts to lift a wheel. It is better to learn
this in a quiet park than a busy street.

When you are negotiating a corner at speed,
remember that your weight shifts away from the
inside wheel.

You must remember that it is very easy to skid
or lock the lightly loaded inside wheel, and that
wheel is contributing less to your ability to brake
and steer.

4.6 Handling

22

4.8 Hill climbing

A recumbent trike tends not to climb a hill as
quickly as an upright bike whose rider can get
off the saddle to use his/her weight to put extra
pressure on the pedals. It will climb in comfort at
a lower speed and in a lower gear.

Try to keep your cadence (speed of which the
pedals rotate) up by shifting down early. You
should never need to get off and push, even
when carrying a heavy load. Just shift down and
keep spinning the pedals until you reach to the
top of the hill.

If you brake violently, at low speeds and with
both brakes, you may find the trike wants to lift
its back wheel. In extreme cases, you can brake
hard enough for the chainring to hit the ground.

Brake drums, calipers and rotors will heat up
when they are used. They can get very hot,
especially after a long descent, and it is possible
to burn yourself if you are not careful. Do not
touch them while riding or immediately after
dismounting from the trike. Check that the brake
components have been cooled down
before attempting to adjust the brakes.

4.9 Descending a hill

CAUTION, take care on your first downhill rides

until you gain experience. It is not unusual
to reach speeds of over 40 mph on steep
descents. You will find you can go faster and
with much more confidence once you are used
to the way the machine handles. Because there
is less air drag in the recumbent position you
will go faster than a bike. Remember you have
powerful brakes with good stopping power.

CAUTION, the brakes are powerful and if they

are applied sharply on some of our models with
higher seats, you can cause the rear wheel
to rise up. This can result in some loss of
directional control.

4.10 Ground clearance

When going over very rough ground, it is
possible, but unlikely, that the underside of the
frame could make contact. If you think there is
a chance that the underside of the frame may
hit an obstacle, get off first and look under the
trike to see how close things are getting. You will
quickly learn to recognize terrain that your trike
can easily handle.

If you do contact the underside of the frame it’s
unlikely any serious damage will be done (other
than scratching the paint) but check to make
sure everything is OK. A good way of riding over
obstacles is to aim your trike so that the object
goes directly under one of your feet. This way it
misses the front wheel, the central frame, and
the rear wheel.

23

5.0 Maintenance

Your ICE trike has been built from quality
materials and parts, and will last for many years
with just a bit of simple maintenance. Although
there is nothing on the trike that a bike shop
can’t maintain for you, doing your own basic
maintenance gives you a good feel of how your
trike is working.

5.1 Lubrication

Lubricating the Chain

At regular intervals, and always after riding in
wet weather, you should lubricate the chain.
The chain tubes supplied with your ICE trike will
help keep the oil on the chain by protecting it
from rain and dirt, prolonging chain life. Check
with your local bike shop to see which chain
lube works best in your area. It is not necessary
to use a lot of lube on the chain; better to use
a little every week than a lot once a month.
Wiping the chain down occasionally with a dry
cloth will help keep it clean and prolong its life.

Other lubrication

Rear hub, headset and pedal bearings on
your trike will need greasing from time to time
depending on riding conditions, the same as
any conventional cycle. The plain bearings in
the suspension pivot need no lubrication. If they
show any significant wear (unlikely), they are
simply pushed out and replaced with new ones.

The steering ball joints don’t require lubrication.

The front hub bearings, handlebar (stem)
bearings, and pulley bearings are pre-lubricated
and sealed. If they feel rough or sloppy, they
should be replaced.

i

TIP:

as with any cycle, a small

amount of regular care will

prolong the life of your trike and

its components. The simplest

thing you can do is to regularly

give a quick drop of oil to all of

the moving parts especially after

riding in heavy rain. Always keep the

chain and chain tubes oiled.

4.11 Muscles

The first few times you ride your new trike, you
will feel the muscles on your legs working harder
than you may be used to. This is because
pedaling from the recumbent position uses
different muscle groups than riding in an upright
position. You will find a noticeable improvement
in this in a few days, and with a couple of
months, you won’t notice anything different at all.

When you are riding a recumbent, the best
approach is to keep your cadence a little high,
even if it means gearing down a little early. One
good reason for this is that the recumbent seat
allows you to brace yourself when you push
on the pedals, and this makes it possible to put
large loads into your knees. On an upright bike,
if you pushed that hard, you’d lift yourself out of
the saddle. Also, try to remember to shift down
before you come to a stop; you will find starting
off again to be much easier.

24

5.2 Adjusting derailleurs 5.3 Drum brakes

The drum brakes on your trike have a very long
life, and shouldn’t ever need replacing under
normal use. We have yet to see a worn-out
set of pads. If you find that the brakes are not
gripping as well as they used to, they can be
disassembled and de-glazed. Remove the
wheel from the bike, and then the backing plate
from the wheel. Note how the spacer between
the hub and the backing plate is located. If the
pads are glazed, they will look somewhat shiny
and smooth. Using some fine sandpaper, lightly
sand the surface of the brake pads until they
look dull again. Be careful about not breathing in
the dust from the surface of the pads.

Clean the inside of the hubs out with a clean, dry
cloth (use no oil, grease, or wax on the inside
of the hubs), then reassemble the brake plates
on the hubs. You should notice a difference in
braking performance, and you should initially
test them away from traffic until you are used
to the improvement in braking. If you notice a
gradual reduction in braking power over a period
of time, check the condition of the brake cables
and housing. Friction from dirty cables can
considerably increase the effort required to stop
the trike.

i

TIP :

Periodic removal and

lubrication of the brake cables

helps increase their life and gives

smoother operating brakes. Disconnect

them at the wheel,and then a small

amount of light oil can be dribbled

down the housing without removing the

inner cable.

Once set, derailleurs should only ever need
minor tweeks to their cable tensions or limit
screws to keep them changing and running
smoothly.
Limit screws are designed to stop the derailleurs
from moving too far in either direction and
derailing the chain.

Cable tension on grip shift systems can be
adjusted with the barrel adjuster on the shifter.
If your trike has bar end shifters an in-line barrel
adjuster is fitted in the gear cable just below the
handlebar grips.

Adjusting drum brakes

To adjust the brake cables, loosen the locking
nut on the barrel adjuster (this is the part that
hooks into the brake backing plate on the inside
of the hub). Screw the barrel adjuster out a little
and check the brakes. When squeezing the
lever, it shouldn’t come too close to touching
the handlebar grips. When the lever is released,
the wheel should turn freely and not drag on
the brakes. When the cable is adjusted, tighten
the locking nut. If you are out riding and feel
the cable could be a bit tighter, you can turn
the adjuster on the brake levers to fine-tune the
cable tension.

25

Brake pads need replacing when the friction
material is worn, contaminated or damaged.
Don’t wait until the friction material is worn
through to the backing plate to replace the pads.
To maintain safe and efficient braking, the pads
need to be replaced if the material is worn down
to 0.5mm.

Replacing Brake Pads – follow the instructions
that are supplied with your brakes. Parts and
spares are available from ICE.

Adjusting mechanical disk brakes

Mechanical disk brakes work with standard
brake cables and as such can be easily
adjusted.
To adjust cable tension you can use the barrel
adjuster on your brake lever, or for major
adjustments the cable can be pulled through the
clamp on the caliper.

Calipers can be adjusted from side to side and
most have independant pad adjustment for fine
tuneing your brakes.

CAUTION:

If you are not condent about servicing

your brakes correctly, we strongly

recommended that you have a

competent cycle mechanic service

your disc brake system. Always wear

protective clothing, safety glasses and

gloves when servicing this system.

!

5.4 Disc brakes

Disc brakes (mechanical or hydraulic) require
regular attention and maintenance. The most
common task is replacing the disc pads. These
will wear under normal use and will require
periodic replacement to keep the brakes working
properly.

Your disc brakes may squeal under braking.
This is normal, and will change depending on
how worn the pads are and how damp or cold
the rotor is. A brake which is hot and dry will
rarely squeal.

The braking performance will be severely
reduced if the system is contaminated. Clean
the calipers, lever, and rotors with water
and a clean cloth. If the disc rotor becomes
contaminated with oil or grease, it can be
cleaned by wiping with a cloth with isopropyl
alcohol or disc brake cleaning products
designed specifically for disc brakes. It is almost
impossible to properly clean contaminated pads;
they should be replaced.

Check the caliper and lever for any signs of fluid
leaks and the hose for any damage such as
chafing or being roughly handled. A damaged
hose could cause a system leak, which will
severely impair braking performance or cause
the brakes to fail.

Bleeding hydraulic brake systems

Bleeding the brake system is a procedure where
new hydraulic fluid is used to replace leaked oil
or to flush out any trapped air. Air in the system
will reduce the braking performance and the feel
of the brake. To bleed your brakes, follow the
instructions that were supplied with your brakes.
Parts and spares are available from ICE.

Your brakes use mineral oil, which is not the
same as hydraulic fluid used for automotive
brakes and clutches. Using automotive fluid will
ruin the seals in your brakes and they WILL fail!
Always use mineral oil; a good source is LHM
mineral oil used in many Citroen and Jaguar
motor vehicles. One litre is inexpensive and will
last you a lifetime.

Note:

Always refer to, the separate

manufacturers brake system

manual supplied with the trike.

26

Troubleshooting - Brakes

Symptoms Possible Cause Corrective Action

Lever goes to the handlebar System leak

Air in the system
Brake pads worn out

Re-bleed the system
Re-bleed the system
Replace pads

Spongy Lever Air in system Re-bleed the system

Disc Rotor rubbing on
the Pads

Caliper not centered over disc
Inadequate clearance
Bent rotor

Adjust
Adjust/ Service
Replace rotor

No braking power Contaminated pads

Worn out pads
Contaminated disc

Replace pads
Replace pads
Clean disc with alcohol

Pads fall out Missing pin Replace pin

Fluid loss Hose leaking

Banjo leaking
Caliper bleeding

Tighten hose nut
Replace hose
Replace banjo copper washer
Tighten/replace bleeder
nipple

5.5 Rear brake

The parking brake is operated from a small lever
mounted on the left-hand handlebar. Because
the brake functions as a parking brake, it is
necessary to make sure that it holds securely.
Check the brake’s function, and if it appears to
be slipping, tighten up the central bolt on the
brake lever using a large flat screwdriver.

5.6 Drivetrain

The chain pulley on the tension side of the chain
will wear over time. Initially it may make a small
amount of noise, but within a few weeks it will
bed in and run much quieter. A pulley should
normally last about 10,000-12,000 miles, but if it
shows significant wear, replace it.

Check that your cranks are tight after the first
50 miles of riding. These should be fastened
firmly to the bottom bracket, with no play. Even
a small amount of movement will cause the joint
between the spindle and the hole in the crank
to wear, resulting eventually in damage to the
chainset.

The rear derailleur idlers tend to collect oil and
dirt. Clean them with a dry rag. If they squeak,
they can be disassembled and greased. When
you lubricate your chain, put a drop of light oil on
the moving pivots of the derailleur; they will last
much longer.

The more you ride your trike, the more familiar
you become to the sounds it makes. If you
notice any change in the sound your trike
makes, check it carefully; it may be a sign of
something needing attention.

27

Do not clean your trike using a pressure washer,
as the water will force its way into bearings,
removing the grease and causing corrosion.

Keeping the frame dry and clean will keep the
coating looking its best for years to come.

If you need to clean the seat mesh, it should be
hand-washed in warm soapy water, rinsed well,
and hung up to dry. Do not tumble dry!

After the first 50 or 100 miles, check the
steering components for signs of looseness.
The headset bearings may need to be gently
tightened after they have bedded in, and the
axles should be checked for tightness as well.

After the first ride or two, the clamp bolts should
be checked to ensure they are tight.

5.8 Tyres, tubes & wheels

Tyres

Quality tyres are vital for good traction and
control while accelerating, turning and braking.
Each brand of tyre has its own individual mix of
puncture protection, rolling resistance, pressure
rating, and durability.

Finding the one that suits your riding style best
is the challenge. Tyres should always be inflated
according to the range marked on the sidewall,
never above the maximum recommended, and
they should be checked regularly. Worn tyres
should be replaced.

Trikes often run with slightly reduced pressure,
as the load is distributed across three tyres,
not two. Lower pressure results in a more
comfortable ride, but at the expense of higher
rolling resistance. Balloon tyres are now
available that combine relatively low rolling
resistance, puncture protection, and a smooth
ride; they are well worth considering. Your ICE
trike has been designed to allow these larger
tyres to be fitted.

5.7 The frame

The main cruciform and rear section of your
ICE trike is powder-coated, a baked-on finish
that is both tough and beautiful. It is possible to
damage the coating, particularly if you scrape
the trike over road obstacles. If this happens,
touch-up paint is available from ICE to repair
the damage. Lightly abrade the scrape with
fine sandpaper, cover the exposed metal
with regular metal primer, and then apply the
coloured touch-up paint.

The front boom of your ICE trike is anodized and
powder-coated. It requires little maintenance
except for regular cleaning.

Mud, rain, road salt, salt air, and sweat can all
affect the finish of your trike. Fitting mudguards
will help to keep road dirt off your trike.

Regular cleaning and corrosion protection
should be a part of your maintenance routine.
We recommend hand washing your trike with
warm soapy water and a rag or soft brush.
Never use abrasive cleaners or solvents on the
powder-coated finish. Rinse well and dry after,
and then lubricate the chain.

28

Tubes & Punctures

Always use good quality inner tubes on your
trike. It is easiest to carry a spare inner tube
with you, and change it if you should be unlucky
enough to have a puncture. Front punctures are
fairly easy to mend, as the tyre can be removed
without taking the wheel off the bike. You may
find it easier to work on the front wheel if you put
the trike on its side first. Repairing a rear wheel
puncture is no different from any other cycle.

Spokes

Occasionally check for loose spokes. Broken
spokes are caused by spokes loosening up, and
then undergoing stress every time they take a
load. If you notice loose (or broken) spokes, or
an untrue wheel, take your bike to your local
bike shop to have the wheels re-trued. One
loose spoke puts an unfair load on the
spokes next to it, and one broken spoke is
usually followed by another.

5.9 Suspension

The rear suspension on ICE trikes runs on plain
bearings. These bearings are made from a
special low-friction, chemical resistant plastic.
They do not normally require lubrication. If you
should notice any significant amount of play in
the suspension joint, the bearings can be easily
adjusted.
There are 2 bolts under the swingarm bearings
which adjust the tension on the bearings.
Tighten these with a 4mm hex key only until the
play is removed. Do not overtighten; it will make
the suspension pivot stiff and wear the bearings
prematurely.

When the bearings can no longer be adjusted,
they will need to be replaced.
To do this:

• Undo the 2 pivot pin clamp bolts under the
suspension mount. Loosen the bearing
adjustment screws.

• Slide the pivot pin out of the bearings. If
it is reluctant to slide, tap gently using a
hammer and a small block of wood to move
the pin. Remove the swingarm.

• Push the plastic bearings from the
swingarm. This can usually be done with
your fingers, although a small bit of wood
and a hammer will remove a stuck bearing
without damaging the swingarm.

• Gently push or tap the new bearings into
place. Make sure they are pushed all the
way in.

• Press the pivot pin back into place, and
tighten the 2 pivot pin clamp bolts. Re­tighten the bearing adjustment screws to
remove any play.

29

5.11 Storage

If you are using the trike most days, it is best to
store it somewhere dry and well ventilated. A
damp, covered trike will quickly develop surface
corrosion of its components, and eventually,
the frame. If you are storing your bike for any
considerable period (over winter or a long
holiday):

• Clean the bike and lubricate.

• Store the trike indoors where it will be dry.

Hanging storage is good. Outdoor storage
under cover is acceptable if there good air
circulation around the trike. Outdoors under
a tarpaulin will actually accelerate any
corrosion and can damage the paintwork
and components.

• Set the gears to the smallest sprocket and
chainring. This keeps the derailleur springs
and cables under minimum tension.

5.12 Frame number

The frame number is marked on the under side
of the main cross joint as well as on a sticker on
the underside of the trike.

i

TIP:

note that the lock nuts at

each end of the track rods have left-

and right-handed threads (the left hand

threaded nuts have a small notch to

identify them). This allows the track to

be adjusted very precisely.

To avoid excessive tyre wear the front wheels
must be kept parallel. Tracking only needs to
be checked if you suspect damage through an
accident, if unusual wear starts on one or both
front wheels, or the feel of the steering changes.
Before adjusting the tracking, check to make
sure the track rods are not bent and the ball
joints are in good condition as well as checking
the wheel axles.

Use a long ruler or a piece of rod to measure
between the inside of the tyres at the front of
the tyres, and then at the rear, all measured at
axle height. The distance (between the arrows)
should be the same, or up to 2mm less at the
front (toed-in).

If the tracking is out of adjustment, loosen the
two lock nuts on one trackrod, and rotate the
rod (a small rotation gives a fairly large change
in track). Tighten up the lock nuts when the
distance is correct.

5.10 Adjusting the
tracking

• Ensure the tyres are properly inflated
before storing the trike, and check them
every month or two. Storing a trike on soft
or deflated tyres is not recommended.

• Before putting the bike back into service,
go through all the maintenance and
adjustment instructions in this manual to
ensure the trike is working properly.

30

5.13 Recomended minimum tools and spares

Get you home kit Full touring kit

Tyre levers +Get you home kit

Spare inner tube 8mm spanner

Puncture repair kit 9mm spanner

Mini pump 10mm spanner

Small adjustable spanner 13mm spanner

3, 4, 5, 6mm Hex keys 8mm Hex key (for the chainset)

Small Phillips screwdriver Chain link extractor tool

Spare chain link Spare gear cable

Chain tool Spare brake cable

5.14 First Service

We recommend a first service on your trike after
approximately 500 miles (800km) or 6 months
after purchase. Your dealer should be able to
do this for you if you are not confident to do it
yourself.

During the first few weeks of riding parts of the
trike tend to work their way loose and out of
alignment. This can lead to the trike performing
sub-optimally leading to undue wear.

The first service is more of a safety check than
anything. Check the torque of the major safety
related fastenings (bars / stem / frame clamps
etc.) check the indexing of gears front and
rear (cables stretch initially), and check brake
clearances, see if wheels are still true and
evenly tensioned. Adjust if required.

It is vitally important that you keep your trike well
maintained. A well maintained trike performs
at its best and is a pleasure to ride and also
ensures that your components last longer.

31

6.0 Safety

Between all of us here at ICE, we’ve ridden
thousands of miles on trikes, and we’ve all
developed good road sense. The following
safety considerations are for your benefit; please
give them serious consideration:

• We recommend always wearing an
approved cycling helmet. Get the best you
can afford. If you’ve got a cheap head, get
a cheap helmet!

• Check your trike before each ride. In
particular, check the tyres and brakes to
ensure they are in good working order.

• If you are riding at night, make sure
you have a legal white headlight and a
red taillight. We recommend using both
non-flashing and flashing LED taillights in
tandem. The flashing light is very noticeable
at a great distance, and the non-flashing
light enables other road users to judge their
distance from you.

• Use your rear view mirror, but don’t rely on
it. You must also turn your head to check
behind you before turning or changing
lanes.

• We highly recommend the use of ‘clipless’
pedals. Shimano’s SPD system is a
good choice, and there are many SPD
compatible shoes and pedals on the
market. Most cycling shoes will come
with the necessary fittings to allow cleats
to be fitted, and the only other thing that
you’ll need is a set of pedals. Pedals are
available with cleat bindings on one side
and a standard platform on the other
(allowing you to go for a quick spin without
having to change into your cycling shoes).
For those that have not experienced
clipless pedals, they have a small binding
mechanism built into the pedal, which locks
onto a cleat fastened to the bottom of the
shoe. It works in a similar fashion to a
ski boot binding. To lock your foot in, you
hook the cleat into the binding and push.
To remove your foot, you twist your heel
sideways and the binding releases the
cleat. Once you are clipped in, you will not
need to put your feet down until you want to
get off; being clipped in is comfortable, lets
your legs relax when you are not pedaling,
and allows power to be transferred more
effectively to the pedals.

• Be careful of going too fast into corners.
The immense stability of the trike is not
absolute, and sharp high speed cornering
may cause you to lift the inside wheel, or
even roll over. As you ride more, you will
gradually learn what the limits of the trike
are.

• Be careful of downhill speeds. It is very
easy to reach speeds in excess of 40 mph
(60kph) when going downhill. Although you
may feel in perfect control, be wary of and
allow for road hazards and other road users
doing stupid things.

• The drum brake hubs and disc brakes
rotors can get hot after long descents. You
can burn yourself on the hot surfaces.

• The usual practice is to brake evenly
using both hands. You can brake at the
maximum rate with the front brakes only.
The trike is designed not to brake-steer if
you brake only one side (a safety feature
necessary if you are braking and signaling
a turn at the same time), but violent, single­sided braking can cause the trike to pull
slightly to the braked side.

32

7.0 Other important

information

7.1 Recumbent/Trike

forums on the internet

Now that you have your new trike, why not
share your experiences with others on the
internet forums?

Official ICE Pages

Facebook

Find “ICE Trikes” on facebook and “Like” our
page to keep updated with everything that’s
going down at ICE HQ as well as letting us and
others know what you are up to on your ICE
Trike.

Flickr

Do you want great quality images of your trike to
show your friends? Visit our Flickr “ICE Trikes”
account to access all of our images in amazing
quality.

YouTube

We love our short films and we think you will
too, so why not visit our YouTube channel “ICE
Trikes” where you can find loads of videos
recumbent related filmed by ourselves.

• Use your flag. Most road users haven’t ever
seen anything like your trike, and will give
you much more attention and room on the
road than they would a standard upright
bike. Nevertheless, using the flag will help
to ensure you’ve been seen, especially in
heavy traffic. You are low, and reversing
cars may not be able to see you. Ride
defensively, as if others can’t see you.

• Consider bright visible clothes. They make
good sense regardless of what you are
riding.

• You might consider fitting a horn. The
‘AirZound’ is a lightweight air horn, charged
with your bicycle pump, and it is LOUD! It is
available from most good bike shops.

• Like any other cycle, try not to ride close to
parked cars. Drivers can fling open a door
or pull out suddenly.

• Although you are far more noticeable
than any other cycle, motorists will almost
always underestimate the speed of an
approaching trike. They just don’t seem to
understand how fast you can be traveling.
Be wary of cars which assume you are
‘slow’ and pull out in front of you with little
warning. Also be wary of cars overtaking
you close to a junction. They will often
misjudge the space they have to get in front
of you, and are rarely certain of what to do
once they’ve realized their mistake.

• Don’t ride close to the edge of the road.
Rubbish tends to collect there and your tyre
is at a greater risk of picking up a puncture.
Although a trike is only a little wider than the
handlebars of an upright bike, it is seen as
being very wide by other road users. If you
move out a little into the road, it is less likely
that drivers will try to force their way past.
Likewise, pay attention to timid drivers that
refuse to overtake you (because you are
so wide!) Pulling to the side to let the queue
pass will earn you the respect of other road
users.

33

ICE Trikes (TRICE) Owners List

There is an online Trice Owners group, started
in 2008. Run by Trice owners, it’s the first place
to go to discuss riding, maintenance, or anything
else TRICE. It can be found at:

www.sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/triceriders

Bent Rider Online

The BentRiderOnline website is a valuable
source of information. They operate a message
board (forum) that is moderated and is free to
join. You will need to register before you can
post a message, but the forum is available for
anyone to read. To register, point your browser
to www.bentrideronline.com and click on the
‘Message Board’ link at the top of the page.

On this new page, you will find links to the
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) and the
registration page. Follow the simple instructions
and you will be registered to participate in the
discussion. There is a Trikes specific forum
under Specialty Discussions, and you will find a
number of ICE trike owners there.

Recumbent and Tandem Rider

R&TR Magazine is the world’s only magazine
dedicated to the riders and enthusiasts of
tandem and recumbent bicycles. Each issue
has bike and equipment reviews, riding tips,
travel stories, technical advice and maintenance
ideas. Available by subscription for doorstep
delivery, or for FREE at many US bike shops.
More information can be found at

www.rtrmag.com

VeloVision

VeloVision is a magazine, published in the
UK, covering specialised bikes, cycling as
transport and human power. We’d have to
agree when they say “It’s a quarterly dose of
cycle inspiration.” To get to the forum, point your
browser to www.velovision.co.uk/forum

Follow the link to ‘VV discussion’. To register,
click on the ‘Log In’ link and then follow the
link to ‘Need a Login? Register Here’. The
registration is painless and allows you to post on
the forum. This forum is not arranged by subject,
but just has a list of the topics presently under
discussion.

Human Power Clubs

The British Human Power Club was formed to
foster all aspects of human-powered vehicles
for competition, recreation and utility activities.
The majority of the Club’s activities revolve
around land vehicles, which are usually, though
not necessarily, recumbent bicycles or tricycles.
They run an annual race series for non-UCI­approved machines, usually 8-10 events.
Every six (at present) years, they also host the
annual European Championships. If you’re not
competitively inclined, the race meetings are still
good places to meet and socialize with fellow
enthusiasts, and to try out people’s strange
machines.

British Human Power Club

www.bhpc.org.uk

There are many other Human Power Clubs
around the world; here are some of the clubs we
know of:

America - www.ihpva.org
Netherlands - www.ligfiets.net
Australia - www.ozhpv.org.au
Germany - www.hpv.org
France - www.france-hpv.org

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7.2 Warranty information

Warranty

New for 2012!.
Your warranty should be submitted online within
the first 30 days of ownership.(Information on
how to activate your warranty can be found
inside of the front cover).

Inspired Cycle Engineering warrants, to the
original owner of each new ICE tricycle that
the frame, seat, and steering components are
free of defective materials and workmanship for
ten (10) years from original date of purchase.
Component parts are limited to one (1) year
from original date of purchase. Warranty is
conditional upon the trike being operated
under normal conditions and being properly
maintained. Warranty is offered to the original
owner only, and is not transferable. This
warranty does not apply to:

• damage through normal wear and tear

• neglect (inadequate care and maintenance)

• damage from crashes or jumping

• overloading through excess weight

• incorrect assembly

• modifications to the trike (additional or

changed components)

• theft

• use as an non ICE-approved power driven

vehicle

• failure to follow instructions or warnings in the
owner’s manual

• activities for which they were not designed

Bending of frames, handlebars, seats or wheel
rims can be a sign of misuse or abuse.

Inspired Cycle Engineering reserves the right
to make sole determination of whether any
failure or damage claimed under warranty was
caused by material or manufacturing defect, and
reserves the sole discretion to repair or replace
any parts covered by this warranty.

The owner shall be responsible for all labour,
shipping, and travel costs connected with
the repair or replacement of warranted parts.
Inspired Cycle Engineering will, at our sole
discretion, normally consider compensation for
reasonable labour, shipping, and travel costs
associated with warranty claims.

Inspired Cycle Engineering shall in no event
be liable for incidental or consequential losses,
damages or expenses in connection with its
tricycle products.

In practice, if you think you have a warranty
claim, contact your dealer or us. We are
passionate about our product, and want you to
be too. If it is our problem, then we will do our
best to put it right.

35

7.5 Contacting us

Your first point of contact should be your local
dealer. They will be able to answer most of your
questions and can provide you with the full line
of ICE accessories. If you need to speak to us
directly, we can be contacted in a number of
ways:

In person;

Inspired Cycle Engineering Ltd

Unit 9

Tregoniggie Industrial Estate

Falmouth

Cornwall

TR11 4SN

England

UK

Telephone: [phone]
([phone] outside UK)

Fax: [phone]
([phone] outside UK)

E-mail: [e-mail]

Website: www.icetrikes.co

Skype: inspired_cycle_engineering_ltd

7.3 Liability information

Liability Waiver:

Taking part in any sporting activity can result
in injury or death. Cycling is no different in this
regard, and recumbent tricycles no different
from upright bicycles. In many ways, recumbent
trikes can be much safer than standard bicycles.
Nevertheless, the rider (that’s you) is expressly
assuming the risk for any injury and/or property
damage that may result from using our product,
as well as for any and all injuries and/or property
damages caused by someone riding your trike.

We have no control over how the trike is used
or maintained. It’s your trike; it is up to you to
be responsible for yourself. You need to ensure
that the trike is safe each time before you ride
it. You need to ensure that it is maintained to
a proper standard. Read and understand this
manual; it has warnings and suggestions that
will help you to use the trike safely. If you are in
any doubt about any of the advice or procedures
in this manual, please contact your dealer or
ICE. It is up to you to know and obey traffic laws
of the country or state where you will be riding
your trike. Pedal cycles are regarded in most
countries as vehicles when on the road and are
subject to the same rules as motor vehicles.

7.4 Legal requirements

Legal requirements vary from country to country
and you should always comply with them.
The important areas you need to consider are
lighting, and helmet use. Consult your local bike
dealer for information about what is required in
your area. Please also remember that even if
not required by law, some equipment (such as
helmets and lights) can increase your personal
safety and should be carefully considered.

If you are not comfortable on the road, or
have little experience riding in traffic, try
practicing riding on quieter streets, at least
until you develop the necessary skills and
road awareness. Many bike shops can offer
instruction on advanced riding techniques.
Inspired Cycle Engineering shall in no event
be liable for incidental or consequential losses,
damages or expenses in connection with its
tricycle products.

36

Fastener Uses Hex Key (mm) nm lb-ft

Front derailleur clamp bolt 5 5-7 4-5

Front derailleur cable clamp bolt 5 5-7 4-5

Chainset - central crank bolt 8 35-50 25-36

Chainset - chainring bolt 5 + Tool 8-10 6-7

Chainring guard bolt 5 6-8 4.5-6

Main frame clamp bolts 5 8-10 6-7

Mudguard adjusters 4 6-8 4.5-6

Mudguard main fasteners 5 8-10 6-7

Axle bolt 10mm Spanner 8-10 6-7

Steerer pivot bolt 5 90 70

Twist-grip clamp bolt (hex key) 3 1-2 1-2

Brake lever clamp bolt 5 6-8 4.5-6

Rear main frame joint 5 8-10 6-7

Mirror 3 3-5 2.4-6

Pivot pin clamp bolts 5 6-8 4.5-6

Shock pin 6mm spanner 5-7 4-5

Disc brake caliper mount 5 6-8 4.5-6

Rear mech hanger 5 8-10 6-7

Rear derailleur mounting bolt 5 8-10 6-7

Rear derailleur cable clamp bolt 5 5-7 4-5

Upper seat mount clamp bolts 4 5-7 4-5

Head rest clamps 4 5-7 4-5

Appendix B: Tightening torquesAppendix A: Tyre

pressures

120 8.3

8.5 123.3

130 9.0 130

9.5 137.8

140 9.7

PSI BAR PSI

2 29.0

30 2.1

2.5 36.3

40 2.8

3 43.5

50 3.4

3.5 50.8

4 58.0

60 4.1

4.5 65.3

70 4.8

5 72.5

80 5.5 80.0

6 87.0

90 6.2

6.5 94.3

100 6.9

7 101.5

7.5 108.8

110 7.6

8 116.0

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Fastener Uses Kex Key (mm) nm lb-ft

Headrest clamp pin 5 5-7 4-5

Disc rotor bolts T-25 6-7 4.5-6

Master Cylinder Clamp Screw T-10 1.7-2.3

Caliper Bleed Screw 8mm Spanner 3-5 2.5-4

Caliper Mounting Bolts 5 11-13 8-10

All other M4 bolts, tighten to 5-6 nm
(4-5 lb-ft)
All other M5 bolts, tighten to 6-8 nm
(4.5-6 lb-ft)
All other M6 bolts, tighten to 8-10 nm (6-7 lb-ft)

38

Accessories

ICE Neckrest

Bottle cages

Rear mudguards

Front mudguards

Flags & mirrors FF & FB brackets

Quick-release kit

Rear rack and panier sides

Easy-adjust kit

Luggage solutions

Front light mounts

39

40