Congratulations on being a new Trice owner. You have purchased the finest, most refined recumbent tricycle
available today ; w e hope it brings you many years of enjoyment.
This manual has been written to help you set up and use your trike. Recumbent trikes may be a little different
from the cycles you are familiar with, so please take a moment to read through this document. You will find the
latest version of this manual in a download-able PDF format on our website.
Throughout the manual, we have included some Tips, which have been learned from over 20 years of experience
building trikes. They are well worth taking special note of.
We hope you enjoy owning and riding your Trice as much as we like making these great machines.
TIP – You will find it much easier to assemble the trike if you
can work on a bench or a table at waist height; this avoids too
much bending down. If you have to work on the ground, put
down some newspaper to avoid the chain, which is protected by
grease, from picking up dirt
Throughout this manual, “left” and “right” are based on the rider’s position , as seated on the trike.
First of all, open the box, unwrap and lay out the pieces.
You should have all the items in the enclosed packing list, as well as any accessories you have ordered.
Assembling your trike is quite simple, even if you have never done any bicycle assembly/work before. If you’re
uncertain about the work, any decent bike shop will be able to follow these instructions to assemble it for you.
It will take you a few hours to put your trike together, but don’t be tempted to rush through;
When assembling your trike, please refer to the table in the appendix for the proper tightening torques for all
fasteners. Do no t over-tighten.
Adjusting and Closing Quick-releases
Open
Quick-releases are used in a number of places on your trike; it is important that they are tightened correctly.
A quick-release that isn’t fully and properly closed can result in parts coming loose or moving while riding. This
could cause a serious accident.
A quick-release system c onsists of two basic parts: a l e ver that provides the clamping force and an adjusting nut
that alters the clamping tension.
With the part you are clamping located properly, adjust the quick-release by opening it, holding both ends and
turning one clockwise until, when you close the lever, you feel some resistance. At this point, try to close the
lever fully. The adjustment is correct when you can fully close the lever, but with some effort (the lever should
leave its impression in the palm of your hand). If you can only close the lever part way, open it, unscrew the
adjusting nut slightly and try again. If it closes too easily, tighten it up a tiny bit and try again. Do not try to
tighten the quick-release by winding the lever around; it will not tighten enough to be safe.
Closed
Right…… let’s begin assembly!
5
2.1 Unpacking
Carefully unpack the contents of the box and inspect for any damage that may have occurred during shipping.
You should be able to unpack your trike without resorting to a knife; if you use one, be careful not to cut through
the parts or to mark the paintwork. Have a good look at the various packages and familiarize yourself with the
various parts. In addition to the main components shown below, there are other small packages of parts. Don’t
open them just yet; leave them sealed until you need them. (Please note, tyres may be supplied only partially
inflated for shipping. Please inflate tyres to correct pressure before sitting on your trike. The correct inflation
pressures are printed on the tyre sidewalls.)
Front
Main frame (cruciform)
Front Boom
Rear Suspension
(seen folded here)
Chainset
6
Handlebars
Front Wheels (drum
brake version shown)
Rear Wheel
Rear and Front
Derailleurs
Chaintubes
(supplied fully
assembled)
Axle bolts
7
Seat Mount
TT Bracket (standard
with T only)
Seat Cover and Frame
(mesh seat models)
2.2 Fit and set the handlebars to an approximate position.
All versions: Slacken off the two clamps on the steerer,
insert the handlebars and adjust them to an upright
position. They only need to be lightly tightened at this
stage.
Note: If you have purchased the optional quick-release
kit, please refer to the instructions for their installation in
QR pack.
Seat and Cover
(hard-shell seat
models)
8
Drum Brake Version: Find the bag containing the
g
handlebars. Also find the bag containing the brake cables
(with the derailleurs). These are the ones with the inner
cables installed. Squeeze the brake lever, and slide the
small barrel end into the hanging bracket on the lever.
Feed the inner cable down through the slot on the front
of the lever (you may have to turn the adjuster to line up
the slots).
Disc Brake Version
handlebars. Also find the box containing the hydraulic
brakes. You will have to remove the cable brake levers
from the handlebars and i nstall the hydraulic brake
levers. Note how the Grip-shift shifter is positioned on
the handlebars. Pull the rubber handlebar grip from the
end of the handlebar. If the rubber half-grip doesn’t
want to come off, lift the top edge of the rubber grip and
dribble a little water down inside (an old spoke or
something similar can help lift the grip and let the water
go a little deeper). Undo the shifter locking screw (top
picture) and gently pulling the shifter assembly from the
handlebars. Undo the br ake lever clamp bolt an d remove
the lever. Re-install the shifter an d the (dry) rubber halfgrip. Push the rubber half-grip so it is flush with the end
of the handlebar, then slide the shifter up to it and
tighten the locking screw. Now fasten the hydraulic
brake lever onto the handlebar. NOTE: the brake levers
are handed. The correct lever will put the oil reservoir
(with the logo on the cover) facing away from the seat
and the rider. Loosen and remove the bolt of the brake
lever clamp with a 4mm Allen wrench. Place the
lever/clamp assembly onto the handle bars (the lever
clamp is in 2 parts, so it can be installed after the shifter
is in place.) and position brake lever so it is on the
forward side of the handlebar. Be sure to slide the lever
up close to the base of the shifter. Replace and tighten
the bolt to 1.7-2.26 Nm (15-20 In. lbs).
: Find the bag containing the
2.3a Fit front drum brake wheels
Note: if you have purchased disc brakes,
please refer section 2.3b
Note: If you have purchased the optional
quick-release kit, please refer to the
instructions for its i nstallation in the QR pack.
Located in the drum brake pack are the drum
brake pins. These pins need to be fastened
onto the kingposts. They are provi ded with hitensile bolts that appear to have paint on their
threads. This is threadlocking adhesive, and it
must not be removed. If you remove and
replace the drum pin bolts, they must be held
in place with Loctite 243 Threadlocker or
equivalent.
Put the bolt (with the washer under the head)
through the centre, elongated hole in the
kingpost brake mount, thread the drum brake
pin on the other side, and tighten gently. (The
pin should be on the outside of the kingpost).
This should be only just finger-tight, so you
are able to slide the pin in the elongated hole.
Do not make this bolt tight at this time; it will
need to be adjusted later.
ht hand kingpost, viewed from inside
Ri
9
Identify the left-hand and right-hand wheels
(the labels are on tape labels fastened to the
spokes). Locate the front wheel 12mm axle
bolts and 12mm nylock nuts which are in a
bag with the upper seat mount. Slide an axle
bolt through the hub from the outside of the
wheel (the side with the five webs on the hub
flange), then from the bag with the drum
brake baking plates and spacers in it fit the
small brake plate spacer over the axle with the
small shoulder
bearing in the hub. Slide on the brake plate.
(Note the brake plates are handed, and should
be fitted so the brake lever arm points forward
and down towards the ground. See photo on
page 11). Now slide the bolt with the
complete wheel assembly through the
kingpost, locating the single hole in the black
brake plate onto the drum brake pin you
previously installed.
on the spacer against the
Tip – make sure the
brake plate is located
on the pin as this stops
the plate rotating.
This is essential for
proper operation of the
brake.
With everything located, add the M12 nylock nut and tighten onto the bolt whi ch is protruding on the inside of the
kingpost. A 10mm hex key and a 19mm wrench are needed to tighten the front wheels. Lightly tighten the
axle bolt, and then check that the drum pin is properly located. Tighten the drum pin bolt to 10-11 ft-lb (13-14
nm). Now, finally, tighten the axle bolt (see table in Appendix A for torque setting). When using a hex key and
wrench, this would be a s tight as you can comfortabl y manage. It is important t h at these bolts are tight; you w ill
not damage the bearing by tightening to the required to rque.
Repeat the fitting procedure for the other wheel.
2.3b Fit front disc brake wheels
Note: if you have purchased drum brakes, please refer
section 2.3a
Note: If you have purchased the optional quick-release kit,
please refer to the instructions for its installation in
Accessories Section of this manual.
Identify the left-hand and right-hand wheels (there are tape
labels fastened to the spokes).
First, the disc brake rotors must be mounted on the hubs.
Place the disc rotor on the hub mounting surface. Be sure
that the arrow on the disc is pointing in the same direction of
the forward wheel rotation. Using a Torx T25 driver, install
then tighten the bolts to a torque of 6-7 Nm (4.5-5 ft-lbs).
Note: the bolts have what appears to be paint on their
threads. This is threadlocking adhesive, and it must not be
removed. If you remove and replace the rotor bolts, they
must be held in place with Loctite 243 Threadlocker or
equivalent.
10
Locate the front wheel 12mm axle bolts, axle caps and 12mm nyloc k nuts. Also locate the aluminium spacer
tubes for the axles, which are supplied in a bag (along with 4 M5 washers) with the disc brakes. Slide the outside
axle cap over the axle, then push the axle bolt through the hub from the outside of the wheel (the side opposite
the rotor). Now slide the bolt with the complete wheel assembly through the kingpost.
With everything located, slide the aluminium spacer tube over the end of the bolt (now protruding on the inside
of the kingpost), and then tighten the M12 nylock nut onto the thread. A 10mm hex key and a 19mm wr ench are
needed to tighten the front wheels. The bolt must be done up quite tight (see table in Appendix A for torque
setting). When using a hex key and wrench, this would be as tight as you can comfortably manage. It is
important that these bolts are tight; you will not da mage the bearing by tightening to the required torque.
Repeat the fitting procedure for the other wheel.
2.4a Connecting the front drum brakes.
Note: if you have purchased disc brakes, please refer section 2.4b
If your brake levers have them,
check the ratio adjustment. It shoul d
look like the photo below.
Connect the brake cable barrel at the
brake lever, make sure the brake
cable long black outer casing is
threaded onto the cable inner wire.
Thread the 90 deg bent tube over
the inner brake cable wire and then
add the long threaded adjusting
barrel so that the cable assembly
looks like the picture on the right.
Slide the bra ke cable adjusting piece
into the lower slot in the brake plate.
Slide the brake cable clamping barrel
onto the brake cable, pull the slack
out of the cable and clamp the barrel
into place.
Adjust the brake by screwing out the
adjuster until the wheel starts to
drag slightly when spun. Screw in
again slightly until the wheel runs
freely. Screw down the locking ring
tightly.
11
2.4b Installing and connecting the front disc brakes.
Note: if you have purchased drum brakes, please refer section 2.4a
The disc brake system is supplied fully assembled and bled. It is strongly rec ommended that you install the
brakes supplied without disconnecting any hoses or attempting to shorten the hose
Route the hose down to the kingpost disc mount. Make sure the hose is running in a position where it will not
twist, kink, or be damaged or pinched. Also check for chaffing of the hose on the tyre or the trackrod. The hose
should lead in a fair curve between the lever and the mounted caliper. If it doesn’t, it is possible to twist the
hose in its connector at the lever end until the hose runs smoothly to the caliper
Mounting the Caliper
New brakes are supplied fully retracted with a red
plastic insert between the pads. With a firm grip, pull
the red insert out from between the pads (it just clips in
place).
Do not squeeze the brake lever until the caliper is
installed. If you do, the brake pistons will be
overextended and you may need a bike shop to
rebuild your caliper.
Slip the caliper over the rotor and then rotate it up to
the kingpost. Align mounting holes with those on the
caliper and fix with the supplied caliper bolts. It is
important to centre the caliper over the disc rotor using
some of the supplied caliper shim wa shers between the
caliper and disc mount . This is done by trial until the
correct position is achieved. We have also supplied 4
thicker washers (packed with the aluminium axle
spacers) which may be needed. The pads should not
contact the rotor unless the lever is pulled.
Fitting the shims can be a bit
frustrating, as they tend to fall out
when the caliper mounting bolt is
withdrawn. Try applying a thin film of
grease to the shims; they will s tick to
each other and to the caliper body,
making it easier to make
adjustments. If you still find it
difficult, the wheel can be removed
each time you change the shims. It’s
slower this way, bu t much easier to
work around the caliper bolts.
Once the caliper has been centred and wheels spin freely
(without dragging), fully tighten the caliper bolts with a
5mm Allen wrench to a torque of 11–13 Nm (97 to 114
in. lbs.) Check that the caliper is still mounted centrally
over the rotor.
Now sit down and read the instruction booklet that came
with your brakes.
Warning: If you are not confident of installing your brakes
correctly, we strongly recommended that you have a
competent cycle mechanic install your disc brake system.
Always wear protective clothing, safety glasses and gloves
when servicing this system.
12
2.5 Fitting the parking brake strap
There are 2 parking brake straps made of Velcro and they wrap around the brake lever and grip as seen below.
They are essential if you do not want your trike going off on its own. You will be surprised how little a slope is
necessary to get the trike moving. Gusts of wind are also capable of moving a trike that doesn’t have a parking
brake. The brake straps can be left dangling on the handlebars when not in use, or removed and stowed in a
handy pocket or bag.
The parking brake strap can be
stored like this when not in use.
2.6 Fitting the rear section to the cruciform
Slide the rear section into the cruciform, taking care not to damage the plastic shim loca ted inside the rear of the
main frame. A small amount of lubricant has been applied at the factory. Evenly tighten the two frame bolts
with a 5mm hex key, until the bolts just bite. Align the rear section by eye so it is vertical (stand back a few feet
to get a better view). Tighten the two bolts by ¼ turn alternately until the rear section is just clamped enough to
prevent it moving around (you will need to adjust this again later in section 2.8).
If you have opted for a different elastomer from the standard, remove the red elastomer from the suspension
swing-arm. This is done by pulling and twisting it from its retaining pin, then pushing the new elastomer onto
the pin in its place.
Caution: Don’t rely solely on the
parking brake straps for the security
of your trike, especially when you
park on a steep hill. Point the trike
towards a wall or curb so it cannot
roll far. Make sure the Velcro® strap
is secured – Your trike will attract
attention, and Velcro® is an
irresistible temptation to young
children.
13
Note: If you have purchased the option Quick-release kit, do not put any quick-releases into the rear
g
frame bosses. You must use the M6 bolts which have already been installed.
Note: If you have purchased the optional rear disc brake kit, please refer to the instructions for the kit in
Accessories Section of this manual.
Unclip the quick-release from the spokes of the rear wheel and thread it through the centre of the axle. The
lever should be on the side opposite the gears (lever on left of trike). Fit the rear wheel to the rear swingarm.
You may find this easier if the Velcro restraining strap on the swingarm is fastened around the rear section main
tube.
If you have a ‘T’, or are fitting the TT bracket for any
reason, now is the time to fasten it in place. The first
mounting bolt passes through the single mounting hole
and the front mounting position on the tube top. Pass
nd
mounting bolt through the appropriate hole and
the 2
the back mounting position. The correct position for
the ‘T’ is as shown on the right. For other applications,
the correct position will depend on the application.
Photo taken from left hand si de, washers are fitted
underneath nuts.
2.7a Assembling the seat – mesh seat
Find the seat frame and the ba
Unfold the cover and identify which is the top, the
bottom, the front and the back. The top can be
identified by the cut-out just below a single strap. The
back can be identified by the wide Cordura bands
running down the cover.
Before you begin assembly, locate the O-rings in the
cover pack. Each O-ring needs to be sli pped onto a
strap on the cover, and pushed 8" (200mm) or more
down the strap. These O-rings are used to hold down
the loose tails of the straps after the seat has been
assembled.
with the seat cover in it.
14
Aligning the top of the cover with the top of the seat
frame, place the back of the cover (the wide cordura
bands) against the frame.
Thread the top strap through the top buckle, and pull
snug. Thread the next strap down through its
corresponding buckle and pull snug. Make sure the seat
cover is centred on the seat frame and the top of the
cover is not to high or low. Work your way down the
seat frame, fastening up the straps snugly as you go.
2.7b Assembling the seat – hard-shell seat
The hard-shell seat is supplied with 2 seat mounting
brackets, which have to be fastened to the seat. The
lower bracket is the wi de r one, and fastens
underneath through the pre-drilled holes. The upper
bracket is narrower, and can be mounted in one of
two positions. The lower position is used for most
riders. The upper position is only for those riders that
want maximum seat recline. In this upper position,
the rear suspension will have to be pulled further out
of the main frame.
When you reach the bottom, check the cover for a
smooth, symmetrical fit. When you are happy with the
appearance of the seat, tighten th e bott om 5 straps so
they are tight. If you’re got the optional seat foam, push
it between the seat bottom and the 5 bottom stra ps
before tightening. The rest of the straps can be adjusted
to your preference after you sit on t h e trike. A good
starting point is to slack off each stra p in turn, and
retighten, pulling the strap gently between your thumb
and forefinger. Be careful about over-tightening the
straps on the back of the seat; too lo ose is more
comfortable than too tight. When all the straps are
adjusted, tuck the loose tails into the O-rings so they
don’t flap about.
15
The flag mount bracket consists of 2 metal clips and a
short length of stainless steel tubing with one end
partially closed. The flag mount is positioned on the
back of the seat as shown in the photograph, with the
closed end facing down.
The ‘Love Handles’ help keep the rid er located on the
hard-shell seat; their installation is optional. To install
the Love Handles, bolt the slots on the Handles
through the pre-drilled holes in the seat with the Love
Handles resting on the inside surface of the seat. The
washers go on the back of the seat. Install the
supplied covers. The Love Handles can be adjusted
for width by loosening the bolts and sliding them to
the required position.
To install the breathable cover, remove the protective paper from the doupble faced tape on the seat, put the
Ventisit cover in place and press firmly over the taped areas. The cover will stick in place sufficiently to stop it
from sliding around. The cover can be removed and replace d many times before the tape becomes non sticky.
16
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