HWAM 30/45, 30/55, 30/65, 20/80 Operating And Maintenance Instructions Manual

E & OE Instructions Part number IN1262 Ed B
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© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. June 2012
Document Part Number IN1262
Operating and Maintenance
Instructions For
30/45 30/55 30/65 20/80
Only The 30/55 is suitable for Burning in Smoke Control areas
Wood Models
This Manual Must Always Be Available To The Stove Operator
Serial Number
Part No.
Model Name
This manual must be used in conjunction with document
IN1173 The Wood and Mutlifuel Chimney and Installation Guide,
© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD.June 2012
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Contents
Subject
Important Notes.......................................................
Model Identication.................................................
Cureing Process......................................................
About Differant Fuels..............................................
The Clean Air Act and Smoke Control Areas........
Placement for internal plates.................................
Grate Cover Plate....................................................
Three Phases of re................................................
Stove Controls.........................................................
Lighting your Stove................................................
Maintanace Of your Stove......................................
Operational Problems.............................................
Operating Instructions
Page
3 4 4 5-7 8 9 9 10 11 12 15 16
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© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. June 2012
IMPORTANT
.
The installation of this appliance must comply with all current BS 8303 local regulations, including those referring to national and European Standards before it can be operated. The stove is not suitable for a shared flue. However, for England and Wales, only, the coming into force on 1st April 2002 of SI 2002 No 440 exempts the householder from this legal requirement for the installation of solid fuel fired appliance whose rated heat output is 50kW or less in a building having no more than 3 storeys (excluding any basement) if a Competent Engineer is employed who is registered under the Registration Scheme for Companies and Engineers involved in the Installation and Maintenance of Domestic Solid Fuel Fired Equipment operated by HETAS Ltd. These registered Competent Engineers may also carry out associated building work necessary to ensure that the installed appliance complies with Building Regulations without involving the Local Authority Building Control Department.
Improper adjustment, alteration, maintenance or the fitting of replacement parts not recommended by the manufacturer can cause injury or property damage. Do not operate the stove with faulty seals or damaged glass.
Due to the high operating temperatures of this appliance it should be located away from pedestrian traffic and away from furniture and draperies. Do not store paper or wood near the appliance. Any mats and rugs put in front of the stove should be fire proof and secured to prevent the possibility of tripping.
Advise all persons as to the stove’s high surface temperatures. If it is possible for children or infirm adults to come into contact with the stove, fit a suitable fire guard.
It is imperative that all air passageways into, out of, and within the appliance are kept clean. All permanent ventilation into the room provided for the stove must remain clear and unobstructed at all times. Consideration must be given to the need for extra ventilation if another heating source needing air is to be operated simultaneously. If an extraction fan is proposed to be fitted to a connecting area of the house, after the stove has been installed, professional advice should be sought from a qualified engineer.
The user should be advised that the appliance should be inspected regularly and the chimney cleaned at least annually. More frequent cleaning may be required and the advice of a qualified chimney sweep should be sought.
Our range of stoves is capable of operating with outstanding efficiency if the flue system is correct. Because so little heat is wasted to the flue it is possible that moisture within the products of combustion will condense if the heat losses within the flue way are too great and allow the flue gases to cool. For this reason we recommend that the stove is fitted with a suitable flue liner, the same diameter as the flue spigot, to prevent the possibility of acidic damage to the fabric of the chimney and damage to the stove which will reduce the longevity of the stove.
When correctly installed, the stove is designed to produce heat, safely. It cannot do so if the installation is less than absolutely stable, constructed of materials suitable for such an installation and consideration has not been given to the possibility of people with less than ideal common sense operating it.
Have the existing chimney swept by a chimney sweep. Although you will be lining the chimney, any deposits left in the chimney will cause problems and may become a fire hazard.
Your attention is drawn to the precautions and responsibilities under the Health and Safety at Work Acts, and whatever new legislation being introduced during the life of this document.
© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD.June 2012
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Euroheat Distributors (H.B.S). Ltd. Unit 2, Court Farm Business Park, Bishops Frome, Worcestershire. WR6 5AY.
www.euroheat.co.uk info@euroheat.co.uk
Useful organisations
Solid Fuel Association 0845 601 4406 www.solidfuel.co.uk
The National Association of Chimney Sweeps 01785 811732 www.chimneyworks.co.uk
HETAS Ltd. 0845 634 5626 www.hetas.co.uk
The Model Range Explained
Thank you for purchasing your stove and helping to protect our environment. Hwam and Euroheat insist on progressive development to produce products which are market leading. Our aims are to produce stoves with the latest innovations, user friendly operation and high efficiency for lower cost operation.
This operation manual offers user information for the range of Hwam 3410, 3420, 3430 and 3440 stoves.
Model Identication
You will see on the front page of this document a label which confirms which model you have. This label also advises you of the stoves unique serial number. This information is also attached to your stove for reference.
Important
Please ensure the warranty registration form is returned to Euroheat. In this way the model and its history will be recorded for reference in the future.
Whilst we are always happy to assist you, please make sure you have read this manual before contacting the technical support team. Technical Support Telephone Number 01885 491117. E-mail tech@euroheat.co.uk
Before Operating this Appliance
The paint used on the stove is a heat resistant paint capable of withstanding 650°C, but it needs to be heated for several hours to allow it to cure and attain its full hardness. The lighting procedure should be followed and the stove’s first fire limited to a small fire for one hour, after which its size can be gradually increased to allow the stove to reach its operating temperature. As the temperature of the paint increases a blue hazy smoke will be apparent as the solvents in the paint are driven out. These fumes may activate a smoke detector, if fitted, and during this period the room must be ventilated by leaving the windows open and it should not be occupied by people or pets. The time taken for the paint to be fully cured will be dependant upon the temperature but you should allow at least six hours. If you re-paint or fit new parts to your stove, another period of curing will be necessary but the curing time will be very much shorter.
Hwam Nydamsvej 53 Dk -8362 Horning Denmark
www.hwam.com
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Gas and oil are consistent fuels and stoves can be designed to obtain the maximum heat from them with the user having to do no more than choose a heat setting. Solid fuels are almost infinitely variable and however well a stove has been designed, its performance will ultimately depend on the way the user operates it. Whilst we have endeavoured to make the stove as simple to operate as possible, understanding just a little about the fuels and the way your stove was designed to burn them will be rewarded by your being able to achieve the best from your stove with the least effort.
As a fuel, wood is visually exciting, environmentally friendly, and a renewable source of energy but it is one of the most complex fuels to burn. Wood contains two sorts of components which burn. The fixed carbons which burn as the glowing embers, and the compounds that vaporize when heated to burn as volatile gases, giving the endlessly changing flame patterns. The fixed carbon, which is charcoal, is a virtually trouble free fuel and needs little assistance to burn cleanly, but it would be difficult to describe it as visually entertaining.
When set to its wood burning position, your stove heats the incoming air to ensure it has the minimum cooling effect on any volatiles. The air is supplied as slowly as possible so as not to blow out any established flames and it comes in across the full width of the stove ensuring that all parts of the stove receive an equal air supply. Because the air enters slowly over a curved blade the air is directed towards the burning volatiles rather than the bed of the fire, this allows the tar laden volatile components to use the incoming air as a priority. By placing a log or two towards the front of the fire whenever the flames from previous logs die down, a bed of charcoal will build up. This will be virtually pure carbon and capable of burning for incredibly long periods without causing any tar deposits on the stove’s glass even when the air supply is reduced to minimal setting.
Always put logs on to the fire before flames from previous logs have extinguished, this will ensure that when the new logs begin releasing gases it will ignite. Unburned gases will cause smoke and tar deposits and wastes potential heat. Putting on too much wood at one time will both restrict the air supply and cool the combustion chamber making it more difficult for the gases to burn cleanly.
Never put on fresh wood whilst operating the stove with a minuscule air supply as a technique for operating for long periods without attention, it will cause both chilling and air restriction. Properly controlling the rate at which wood burns is not simply a matter of restricting the air supply, nor running the stove with a very small fire, it is maintaining the temperature and ignition flames in the stove whilst balancing the release of gases to match the chosen air supply.
No two woods have the same burning characteristics but all wood contains water. It is difficult to quantify the amount of water any log might hold whilst its exterior feels dry but it would not be unreasonable to estimate a mug full from a good sized, poorly seasoned log. Imagine pouring that onto your fire every time you introduce a new log and you will realize its obvious effect of cooling the fire. What is not so obvious is that the moisture mixing with the vaporized gases is cooling them, possibly below their ignition temperature. So the water within a wet log cooled the stove, it has prevented much of the potential heat from the log being realized and the unburned combustible products will be deposited as tars within the stove and flue.
Coal suitable for stoves has only a very small proportion of components that vaporise and a far higher fixed carbon content and when the stove is set to its coal burning position air is supplied through the grate to the underside of the fire bed to supply the carbon directly. There will be sufficient spare air travelling through the fire bed to reach the limited gases being released and this air will have been heated as it passed the burning coals.
Because coals suitable for stoves have so little vaporizing content they are virtually trouble free fuels to use, but if you are using one of the manufactured smokeless coals take care to ensure the ash pan is checked regularly because some of them have a very high ash content; this is especially important if you change “brands” because the ash contents can vary dramatically.
Multifuel And Wood Stoves
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Choice Of Fuels
Wood
All wood will burn slightly differently, but the most important differences between woods is their moisture content. Until the moisture has been driven off from the wood it will remain below its combustion temperature. When the outer skin has dried and beginning to burn, much of this heat energy will be wasted having to boil off the water remaining in the core of the wood. Copious amounts of water vapour, in all but the most insulated flue, will condense, and mix with the products of combustion to form creosote and other undesirable substances which will eat away the fabric of the flue, and eventually build up to block the flue. At any time this build up of tar will be capable of causing a chimney fire. The advice to burn only "dry" wood is sometimes confusing because the atmospheric moisture will prevent wood ever becoming "dry". It is acceptable to burn wood with a moisture content of less than 20%, which can be achieved by splitting the wood, stacking it so as to allow air to circulate within the stack and storing it under cover for between 18 months and 30 months, depending on prevailing climatic conditions. The use of a wood moisture content meter will confirm the amount of water remaining in the wood easily. The practice of drying wood by the stove should be discouraged, firstly because it should be unnecessary, and secondly because stored wood will invariably become the home to many varieties of insects, many of whom enjoy eating wood. To introduce them into your house and encourage them with heat and time to make new homes in your furniture and structural timbers is not recommended.
Peat (not suitable for smoke control areas)
Peat burns very well, but it is bulky and its distinct aroma will pervade your home and everything in it, but otherwise peat can be burned as wood.
DO NOT BURN petroleum based fuels such as petro-coke, they may seriously damage your stove. The manufacturers of other blended coal products, containing a proportion of petro-coke, should be approached to confirm the suitability of the product for use within an enclosed appliance that does not have a chrome steel grate.
Smoke control area`s
The Hwam range 30/55 are only considered suitable for exemption under the Clean Air Act when burning untreated dry wood. The appliance should only be used to burn wood or authorised fuels. For details of authorised fuels that are suitable for the appliance please contact your appliance distributor.
The HWAM 20/80, HWAM 30/45 30/55 30/65 are not designed to burn coal, coal products or any mineral fuel. The use of these fuels will invalidate the manufacturers warranty.
Always riddle the grate before putting on loadings of coal to give the initial release of gases sufficient air with which to burn; failure to do so may allow the stove and flue to fill with gases ready to ignite.
A stove is very much safer than an open fire, but if you have children or infirm people in the house please ensure it is suitably guarded, and consideration should also be given to accidental contact with the stove if you are entertaining with a busy house full of guests.
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Choice Of Logs
Never burn wood that is not dry or wood that has been subject to a manufacturing process, such as chipboard, as these contain resins of uncertain toxicity when burned. For the same reasons, wood that has been painted or treated with a preservative should never be burned.
Natural wood is described as being either “hardwood” or “softwood”. Typically all broad leaf trees that lose their leaves in the winter are called hardwoods, and the evergreen conifers are called softwoods. Whilst the wood from the two groups have structural differences, the terms do not define the density or hardness of the wood. Balsa, one of the softest and lightest of woods is classified as being a hardwood and Hemlock, a soft wood, is extremely hard.
The less density wood has, the more its structure is made up of open spaces meaning it will season faster and because of these voids it will burn faster because it will expose more surface area as it disintegrates. This makes light woods suitable for kindling or a rapidly developing fire but unless you enjoy putting wood onto a fire every few minutes it is unsuitable for burning over long periods. Although there is a difference in the speed at which woods burn, equal weights of wood will give very similar amounts of heat.
Because logs are concentric tubes of cells they season faster if they are split, halving the tubes and allowing the moisture to evaporate more easily. Similarly it also allows the volatile gases given off when the wood is heated in a stove to be emitted along its full length rather than at the log’s ends. This helps the gases to be distributed more evenly within the stove and improves not only the efficiency, and emission reduction of wood burning but gives a more attractive fire.
Putting logs onto the fire, bark side down and laying them, well spaced, in random orientation, rather than uniformly horizontally, will also help to increase the efficiency and attractiveness of the fire. To make this easier the ideal log length will be the length the stove’s combustion chamber can accommodate in all directions, and of proportionate cross-section, to allow you to load wood in a “higgledy-piggledy” manner.
DO NOT BURN
Anything but dry, natural wood. Wood that has been painted, treated or has hinges, nails or any plastic attached will almost certainly emit toxic matter when burned. For similar reasons bonded wood products such as chipboard, plywood or fibre board must never be burned.
DO NOT BURN
Household waste. Many seemingly innocuous items like box packaging have been coated with glazes which will produce toxic matter when burned. One old video tape put on the fire will cause more pollution in a few minutes than a life time of wood burning. Not only will a fire burning rubbish pollute, the stove is not designed to contain such an assortment of sizes and weights and a flaming box falling from the stove when the door is opened will present an unacceptable fire hazard.
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The Clean Air Act 1993 and Smoke Control Areas
Under the Clean Air Act local authorities may declare the whole or part of the district of the authority to be a smoke control area. It is an offence to emit smoke from a chimney of a building, from a furnace or from any fixed boiler if located in a designated smoke control area. It is also an offence to acquire an “unauthorised fuel” for use within a smoke control area unless it is used in an “exempt” appliance (“exempted” from the controls which generally apply in the smoke control area).
The Secretary of State for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs has powers under the Act to authorise smokeless fuels or exempt appliances for use in smoke control areas in England. In Scotland and Wales this power rests with Ministers in the devolved administrations for those countries. Separate legislation, the Clean Air (Northern Ireland) Order 1981, applies in Northern Ireland. Therefore it is a requirement that fuels burnt or obtained for use in smoke control areas have been “authorised” in Regulations and that appliances used to burn solid fuel in those areas (other than “authorised” fuels) have been exempted by an Order made and signed by the Secretary of State or Minister in the devolved administrations.
The Hwam 30/55 stove has been recommended as suitable for use in smoke control areas when burning [fuel].
Further information on the requirements of the Clean Air Act can be found here : http://smokecontrol.defra. gov.uk/ Your local authority is responsible for implementing the Clean Air Act 1993 including designation and
supervision of smoke control areas and you can contact them for details of Clean Air Act requirements
Refuelling on to a low fire bed
If there is insufficient burning material in the firebed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can occur. Refuelling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the fire bed, add suitable kindling to prevent excessive smoke
Fuel overloading
The maximum amount of fuel specified in this manual should not be exceeded (2.0kg p/h), overloading can cause excess smoke.
Operation with door left open
Operation with the door open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be operated with the appliance door left open except as directed in these instructions.
Dampers left open
Operation with the air controls or dampers open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be operated with air controls or dampers door left open except as directed in these instructions.
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© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. June 2012
Correct Placement of Internal Plates
Before using the stove, please ensure that all separate components are correctly placed.
The smoke plate (2) must lie on the rear plate and on the slanting side plates. It must fall into position in the track on the rear plate.
The steel smoke plate (1) is held in position by two wedges each of which is pushed into the eyes on the internal top plate.
The cover plate (3) is placed on top of the grate to prevent embers from falling into the ash pan.
The ash pan (5) is in the ash pit.
Before using the stove, please ensure that all separate components are correctly placed,
The smoke plate (1) must lie on the rear plate and on the slanting side plates. It must fall into position in the track on the rear plate.
The steel smoke plate (2) is held in position by two wedges each of which is pushed into the eyes on the internal top plate.
Hwam 20/80
Hwam 30/45 30/55 and 30/65
6
5
7
3
2
4
1
3
2
1
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E & OE Instructions Part number IN1262 Ed B
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Grate Cover Plate
Your HWAM 20/80 stove is supplied with a loose cover plate for the riddling grate. This is a 3 mm thick steel plate. It is placed on top of the riddling grate and prevents the embers from falling into the ash pan. The cover plate is raised approx. 8 mm above the grate, thus ensuring that the automatically controlled primary combustion air is distributed evenly at the base of the combustion chamber.
When the ue temperature is low the cold bimetallic coil positions the shutter to maximise the air supply below the grate. As the ue increases in temperature the coil heats and begins to unwind, causing the air being sent under the grate to be reduced and the air supplied above the grate to be increased.
The Automatic Combustion System
A bimetallic coil responds to the heat in the secondary combustion chamber by expanding and contracting, causing it to rotate its central spindle, the spindle is attached to an arm which raises or lowers, dependant upon the heat of the flue gasses, a plate or plates which open or close the primary air (lower inlet) and the secondary air (upper inlet).
The Three Phases of a Fire:
1) The lighting phase, where there must be an air supply at the top and bottom of the fire (secondary and primary air, respectively).
2) The combustion phase. At the ideal temperature of between 1000-1200° Celsius the coil will have closed the primary air supply and the fire will receive all its air supply from the secondary inlet.
3) The burning-out phase. As the temperature falls, the air supply above the fire is gradually reduced, and the primary air is increased, to supply air to the embers.
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Stove Controls
6
7
On this model the air control 6. regulates the amount of air entering the air wash to keep the glass free of soot.
The amount of air available for the stove’s automatically controlled primary and secondary combustion air system is governed by the control 7. When the control is to the left only a minimum supply is available, when set to the right the maximum air is available.
This model has only the one air control which regulates the amount of air available for the stove’s automatically controlled primary and secondary combustion air system is governed by the control 7. When the control is to the left only a minimum supply is available, when set to the right the maximum air is available.
Model 20/80
Models 30/45 30/55 and 30/65
7
Important! Do not open the ash pan when lighting up and always keep it closed when the insert stove is in use, otherwise you may destroy the automatic control.
The main door must only be opened when lighting the re, when loading and when
removing ashes.
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First Lighting of the Stove
When you light the stove for the first few times it should be with small fires increasing in size, as all the materials must be given time to adapt to the effects of heat. The paint on the body of the stove will be fully hardened after the stove has been cured, however the door and the ash pan should be opened very carefully before this as there will otherwise be a risk that the gaskets will stick to the paint.
Curing
The paint may initially give off unpleasant fumes and an odour, so make sure that the room is well ventilated. The paint will be soft, so care must be taken with the stove for the first 6-8 firings. This is called curing and is not a fault of the stove and will stop.
Soapstone Finish
Soapstone must gradually be conditioned to heat. Soapstone may contain water, which is why you must be cautious when you fire your stove for the first time to keep the fire low for the first two hours. This will allow the soapstone to dry slowly and release the tension in the stone without any damage to the soapstone.
We recommend following the procedure below:
First firing
Place two lightly crumpled sheets of tabloid sized newspaper in the stove. Then lean some small, extremely dry kindling with a diameter of between 3–5cm vertically against the paper in a conical formation, leaving space between each piece and light it. Make sure the air controls are set to maximum and leave the door of the stove slightly open. Keep the door slightly ajar until the kindling is burning brightly, then shut the door.
Do not leave the stove unattended with the door open.
After it has been lit and when it is burning well, add a similar amount of kindling.
Adjust the air inlet control to mid/low setting. Using small logs keep the fire burning low for two hours then gradually build up the fire.
Always use the glove supplied with the stove when loading with fuel or operating any of the controls or handles.
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Wearing the stove glove place a few logs larger than kindling wood over, but not smothering the kindling.
When the previous loading of wood is burning brightly add two larger split logs to bridge the fire. Always avoid putting wood directly onto wood burning with flame, try and leave air space under the wood for the flame to form, because the new, cold log will tend to cool the fire.
Reduce the burn rate control setting when the fire is established to the desired heat output and set the air wash control to the mid setting. See the individual lighting and operating instructions for the stoves on the following pages.
Putting new logs bark side down, will give you both maximum efficiency and best visual effect as it begins to burn.
At the rear of the combustion chamber you will observe that there are a series of holes or slots, these are there to allow air into the combustion chamber and should NOT be covered at any time
Important!
Do not over fuel your stove, no more than 2.5kg an hour should be burnt.
Do not open the ash pan door when lighting the stove and always keep it closed when the stove is in use, otherwise you may destroy the automatic combustion control.
Refueling
When refuelling the stove, operate at high output for 2-5minutes or until the new charge of fuel is well alight before closing down the air control to the desired setting.
Never leave the stove unattended until the new charge of fuel is well alight.
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E & OE Instructions Part number IN1262 Ed B
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General Maintenance of the Stove
Ash Removal 20/80
The ash pan must NOT be removed and emptied when the stove is operating. Removal of the ash pan when the stove is lit will allow unregulated air to enter the stove which can damage the automatic combustion control system. Do not allow ash to block the combustion air slots/holes at the rear of the combustion chamber. We recommend that these slots/holes are cleared regularly. The embers within the ashes may remain alight for up to 24 hours after the stove has gone out, so they must be disposed of in a non-combustible container.
Ash Removal i30/45 i30/55 and i30/65
We recommend the use of an Ash Vac for ash removal of the above appliances, However wood burns quite happily on a bed of ash, so the removal of it may be very infrequent. If an ash vac is not available a small shovel and bucket can be used. Be very carefull not to damage the mica baffle and bricks.
Cleaning the Glass
Before attempting to clean your stove’s glass the stove must be extinguished and allowed to cool, it would be potentially unsafe to, and would risk the glass shattering if attempts are made to clean it while hot. The glass in your stove is specially formulated to withstand the very high temperatures and proprietary glass cleaners developed for ordinary glass are not recommended as their compositions may contain chemicals that will weaken or etch into the glass. Newspaper moistened with water to which a little vinegar has been added will normally remove most staining, but for really stubborn marks, gentle polishing with fine steel wool lubricated with a few drops of dish washing detergent will need to be employed. Great care must be taken not to clean the glass too vigorously as particles of grit may have adhered with the stain and these could cause scratching if dragged across the glass. However well the stove burns it will eventually become necessary to clean the glass, but if cleaning becomes necessary too often we advise you to review your operating procedures to determine whether cleaner and more efficient combustion can be achieved. Check the condition of the seals around the glass regularly for signs of leakage; replace only using the manufacturer’s sealing gaskets.
1
1
2
2
To clean the glass on the i30/45, i30/55 and the i30/65 open the lift up door half way and hold it there. At the same time pull the arms (1) outwards off and over screw (2) and the glass will come forward. You can then lower the glass door down and rest the bottom edge off the glass against the body of the stove.
The Stove Body
Any maintenance of the stove should only be carried out when it is cold. Daily maintenance is limited to vacuum cleaning the stove externally, using the soft brush attachment. You can also dust the stove using a dry, soft cloth or brush, but only when the stove is cold.
Maintaining Painted Surfaces
No paint will tolerate the temperatures within the stove’s combustion chamber and it is normal for the paint within the combustion chamber to loosen and flake. If the stove’s exterior paintwork becomes damaged it can be simply repaired by sanding the area with a fine wet and dry paper and the using a Hwam approved paint to respray the area. Never use or store any aerosol near the stove when it is operating or warm. Aerosols can give off an explosive vapour which may be drawn into the stove and explode.
Professional Maintenance
The stove and the installation should be thoroughly inspected and serviced by a suitably qualified heating engineer annually. The combustion chamber should be cleared of ashes and soot. Door and fittings should be lubricated using a copper-based grease.
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© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. June 2012
Operational Problems
Blackened glass
The wood is too damp. Only use wood stored for at least 12 months under cover and with a moisture level not exceeding 25%.
Smoke in the room when opening door
Open the door slowly, a few millimetres at first, then gradually to allow the pressure changes within the stove to equal out. Insufficient chimney draft. See page 10, Flue Draught Measurement or contact a chimney sweep. Soot door leaking or dislodged. Replace or refit. Never open the door when there are still flames on the wood.
Uncontrollable combustion
Faulty seal in door or ash pan. Fit new seal. If there is an excessive chimney draft, it may be necessary to fit a draught stabilizer or a stabilizing cowl (See IN1173).
If the steel plates in the combustion chamber develop scales or become deformed, this is due to excessive heat caused by over firing the stove. This can be caused by excessive chimney draught, incorrect operation of the stove or incorrect fuel type, e.g. a petroleum coke based product. If over firing is evident contact your local retailer who can advise you on the most suitable remedy.
Fulmination
A stove may sometimes give off a loud noise, and this is known as fulmination. Most stoves will make a “ticking” sound when heating up and cooling down. In a few cases this normal ticking will be replaced by a number of loud bangs. This is due to tension in the construction which is released during heating and cooling and has no practical significance for the function of the stove and does not constitute a safety risk or a fault in the construction of the stove. In some cases it may be possible to remove this tension by allowing the stove to heat up very quickly.
Cracked glass
The glass in the stove door is a special ceramic glass that can stand extremely high temperatures, but it is particularly sensitive to knocks and blows at high temperatures and when heating up and cooling down. So if the door is closed with a bang or is subjected to knocks and blows in other ways, there is a high risk that the glass will crack – typically at the corners where it is secured to the door. If an accident should happen it is possible to order a repair kit containing glass, gaskets, etc., and instructions for replacing the glass from your local retailer or directly from Euroheat.
White or opaque glass
If the glass becomes white and opaque and cannot be cleaned as normal, it may have been damaged. The glass in the stove door is a special ceramic glass that can tolerate gentle flame impingement, however fierce flames which are directed onto the glass will cause it to revert irreversibly to its original opaque state. Never burn any manufactured wood based products bonded with adhesive such as chipboard, burn only natural unadulterated wood as manufactured by nature and only smokeless fuels which have been approved for use in an enclosed appliance.
© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD.June 2012
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The combustion chamber lining has cracked or broken
The fireproof Skamolex lining in the combustion chamber is made of vermiculite, which is a specially manufactured material that can withstand very high temperatures and also provides efficient insulation and thereby ensures the optimum temperature and combustion in the combustion chamber. The material is porous and cannot withstand knocks or blows. Cracks are usually caused by a blow to the material with a piece of wood or similar. This is not detrimental to the insulating effect as long as the stones are still correctly placed in the stove. The liners should be replaced when they have been worn down to approximately half their original thickness. After this they will no longer provide proper insulation and therefore do not ensure the correct combustion temperature, nor can they protect the stove against the high temperatures in the combustion chamber.
The door will not open
If the door cannot be opened, this will normally be due to the heat of and tension in the material. Wait until the stove is cold and try again. In very rare cases the closing mechanism on the door may have broken. This will make it necessary to obtain the help of your stove distributor.
Rust
The stove will not rust if it is correctly installed and connected. When the inside of a stove rusts this is often due to the fact that it is exposed to dampness from the chimney when not in use during periods of warm wet weather. To minimise this risk, the stove can be lit during these periods to ensure that it is thoroughly dry inside. In some properties, where the temperature is often low indoors during the winter, the temperature in the combustion chamber can become so low that water from the stationary air will condense on the metal surface of the stove. This water may lead to a rust attack.
To avoid this we recommend ensuring there is a draught through the stove, possibly by allowing the air supply to the stove to remain slightly open during the winter. The metal surfaces within the stove can also be sprayed with “WD40” or a similar water repellent to protect them from the effects of moisture.
If the outside of the stove rusts, this will generally be because it has been stored in damp surroundings for a longer period of time and water has been able to form on its surface. If this does occur, it is possible to order a spray paint to match the colour of the stove.
Order product number HW99-0043BL for black surfaces, and HW99-0043GRY for grey surfaces.
Declaration
The information provided for the room heater fuelled by wood (solid mineral fuel), has been measured as specified in EN13240:2001 and EN 13240-A2:2004.
Hwam and Euroheat have a policy of continual research and development and reserve the right to modify its appliances without prior notice. We make every effort to ensure that the information provided in this document is correct and accurate at the time of printing. Continued updates occur to adapt documents to customer requirements and appliance changes. For the latest editions of all Euroheat documentation visit our web site www. euroheat.co.uk. We would request that you inform Euroheat of information which you feel is not provided in this document which would assist other users in the future.
Welcome to the world of real Stoves
Euroheat Technical Team
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