Husaberg '04 General Service Manual

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Page 1

REPARATURANLEITUNG

REPAIR MANUAL

MANUEL DE REPARATION

“

Edition 2004

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PREFACE

This manual contains detailed instructions on repairing the engine. It was prepared according to the state of the art for this model series. We reserve the right to make modifications based on technical progress without making the respective corrections in this repair manual.

This manual does not contain a description of general shop or working methods. It does not include safety rules generally observed in workshops and is based on the assumption that the work is performed by a mechanic who has completed his vocational training.

Please read the entire manual before starting to work.

WARNING: failing to observe these instructions can be dangerous to life and limb.

CAUTION: failing to observe these instructions may damage the motorcycle/engine components or impair the motorcycle's traffic safety.

NOTE: provides useful information.

Only use ORIGINAL HUSABERG SPARE PARTS if parts need to be replaced.

The engine will only continue to operate safely if the prescribed service work is performed regularly and professionally.

Subject to changes in construction and design.

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Page 4

INDEX

GENERAL INFORMATION

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

FUEL SYSTEM

TROUBLESHOOTING

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

WIRING DIAGRAMS

Page 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GENERAL INFORMATION

Oil circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1

Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1

Checking the oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1

Changing the engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2

Cleaning the oil screen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2

Changing the oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3

Checking the oil level in the hydraulic clutch . . . . .A4

Bleeding the clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4

Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A5

Preservation for winter operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A5

Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A5

Special tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

Dismounting the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1

Mounting the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5

Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B9

Adjusting the decompression cable . . . . . . . . . . . .B9

Adjusting the throttle cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B9

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

Blocking the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Removing the rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2

Removing the pressure relief valve . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2

Removing the clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3

Removing inner clutch hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4

Removing primary pinion and the idler shaft gear

. .C4

Removing the oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5

Removing the chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6

Separating the timing chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6

Removing the cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7

Separating the housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7

Removing the crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8

Removing the transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8

Removing the idler shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

Important . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1

Left housing half . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1

Right housing half . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

Pressure relief valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4

Press out the crank pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5

Press in the crank pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Checking the crankshaft journal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7

Outer dimension of the crankshaft webs . . . . . . . .D7

Balancing the axial clearance of the crankshaft . . .D8

Nikasil cylinder coating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9

Measuring the piston and cylinder liner,

determining the piston mounting clearance . . . . .D9

Checking the piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10

Checking the piston ring end gap . . . . . . . . . . . .D10

Checking the oil pump for wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10

Cylinder head top section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11

Cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12

Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D14

Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D15

Timing train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D15

Checking the clutch for wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D16

Checking the kickstarter for wear . . . . . . . . . . . . .D17

Shift mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D18

Assembling the main shaft (four-speed) . . . . . . . .D19

Assembling the main shaft (six-speed) . . . . . . . . .D20

Assembling the countershaft (four/six-speed) . . .D21

Starter drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D22

Checking the freewheel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D22

Checking the freewheel hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D22

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

Mounting the idler shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1

Mounting the crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2

Mounting the cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4

Mounting the timing chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5

Mounting the timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . .E7

Adjusting the valve clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7

Mounting the oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8

Mounting the shift mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8

Mounting the kickstarter shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9

Mounting the clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9

Mounting the clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11

Mounting the pressure relief valve . . . . . . . . . . . .E13

Mounting rotor and pick up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E13

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

Checking for loss of current . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1

Dismounting/mounting the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1

Charging the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1

Filling the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F2

Checking the starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F2

Checking the starter relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3

Checking the main fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3

Checking the voltage regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4

Kokusan 4K3B dynamic generator values . . . . . . . .F4

Troubleshooting in the ignition system . . . . . . . . . .F5

CDI unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6

Checking the ignition coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6

Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F7

Checking the stator and pulse generator . . . . . . . .F7

Replacing the stator in FC models (Kokusan 4K-3A) . .

Replacing the stator in FE and FS models (Kokusan 4K-3B

) . .F7

Static ignition values Kokusan 4K-3A/B . . . . . . . . .F8

Static generator values Kokusan 4K3B . . . . . . . . .F10

FUEL SYSTEM

KEIHIN FCR-MX 39/41 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1

Disassembling the carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G2

Choke slide and hot start knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G5

Accelerator pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G5

Jet needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G5

Float needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G5

Throttle slide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G6

Assembling the carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G6

Adjusting the throttle sensor position . . . . . . . . .G10

Checking the throttle sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11

Dismounting and mounting the throttle sensor . .G11

Adjusting the idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12

Checking/adjusting the float height . . . . . . . . . . .G13

TROUBLESHOOTING

Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Engine 450, 501 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I1

Carburetor 450, 501 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I1

Engine 550, 650 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I2

Carburetor 550, 650 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I2

Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I3

Engine torques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I4

Chassis torques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I5

Mounting clearances, engine wear limits . . . . . . . ..I6

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

FC 450, 550/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .J1

FE 450 - 650e/6, FS 450, 650e/6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .J2

Additional work - driver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .J3

Additional work - workshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..J4

WIRING DIAGRAMS

FC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .K1

FE models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .K2

FE USA models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .K4

FS models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .K6

Cable colors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .K8

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ENGINE OIL

Only use fully synthetic brand-name engine oils (e.g.: Motorex Power Synt. 4T) that meet or exceed the Jaso T903 MA quality requirements (information on the can).

CAUTION: not enough engine oil or low-quality oil will lead to premature engine wear.

CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL LEVEL

NOTE: the engine oil level can be checked when the engine is cold or warm.

–Place the motorcycle on a level surface (not on the

side stand). If the engine is cold, the engine oil should be visible at the lower edge (A) of the inspection glass. If the engine is warm, the engine oil should reach the upper edge (B) of the inspection glass. Add engine oil if necessary.

CAUTION: not enough engine oil or low-quality oil will lead to premature engine wear.

– Check the engine for leakage.

GENERAL INFORMATION

A 1

0°C

32°F

10W/50

5W/40

JASO T903 MA

TEMPERATURE

OIL CIRCUIT

DESCRIPTION:

The oil pump (1) draws the engine oil from the oil sump through the oil screen (2) and pumps it past the pressure relief valve (3) to the oil filter (4). It continues to the crankshaft (5), partly branching off through a hole to lubricate and cool the piston (6) and the piston pin bearing. Once through the crankshaft, the engine oil is pumped to the conrod bearing (7) and branches off again to the bearings in the balance weight (8). The camshaft (9) is lubricated by the engine oil which is transported to the cylinder head by the timing chain (10). On the downward movement of the piston, engine oil is pressed from the crankcase through the diaphragm valve (not depicted) to the transmission and shift mechanism.

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CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL

NOTE: Replace the oil screen and the oil filter when you change the engine oil.

Change the engine oil when the engine is at operating temperature.

WARNING: the engine oil will be very hot when the engine is at operating temperature – be careful not to burn yourself.

– Place the motorcycle on a level surface, remove the

plug (1) and allow the oil to drain into a suitable vessel. – Thoroughly clean the plug (with the magnet).

– After the oil is completely drained, clean the sealing

area, mount the plug with a new seal ring and tighten

to 20 Nm.

CLEANING THE OIL SCREEN

NOTE: the oil screen (3) is located in the plug with the hexagon drive (2) next to the oil drain plug on the right side of the engine.

–Dismount the plug with the oil screen, thoroughly

clean the parts and blow clean with compressed air. – Check the O-rings (4) for damage and replace if

necessary.

– Insert the oil screen in the plug, mount and tighten the

plug to 15 Nm.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Page 8

GENERAL INFORMATION

A 3

CHANGING THE OIL FILTER

– Place a suitable vessel under the engine to allow the

oil to drain. – Remove both bolts (1) and screw an M6 bolt in the

center hole (2) of the oil filter cover.

NOTE: only tighten the bolt by hand, otherwise you will damage the oil filter cover.

– Pull the oil filter cover (3) out of the hole with the bolt

M6 and remove the bolt.

– Use pliers to pull the oil filter element (4) from the

housing. – Clean the oil filter cover, the sealing areas on the

O-rings and the engine case. check the O-rings (5) in

the oil filter cover for damage and replace if necessary.

– Lay the motorcycle down and fill the oil filter housing

approx. half-full with engine oil. Insert the oil filter in

the housing. –Grease the O-rings in the oil filter cover and mount the

cover. Mount the bolts and tighten to 6 Nm.

–Place the motorcycle in an upright position again.

– Unscrew the oil filler plug (6) and add 1 liter of fully

synthetic engine oil (e.g.: Motorex Power Synt. 4T).

–Start the engine and check all of the plugs and the oil

filter cover for leakage.

– Finally, check the engine oil level and correct if

necessary.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL IN THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH

Remove the cover to check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch. Remove the screws (1) and lift off the cover together with the rubber boot (2). The oil level should be 4 mm below the upper edge when the master cylinder is in a horizontal position. If necessary, add SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil (e.g.: Motorex clutch fluid

75).

CAUTION: only fill SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil into the master cylinder. Do not add brake fluid.

BLEEDING THE CLUTCH

To bleed, remove the cover on the master cylinder of the clutch. Remove the screws (1) and lift off the cover together with the rubber boot (2). Remove the vent nipple from the slave cylinder of the clutch. Mount the bleeder syringe (3) filled with SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil (e.g.: Motorex clutch fluid 75).

Continue to add oil until the oil runs out of the hole (A) in the master cylinder without bubbles. Make sure the oil does not overflow.

CAUTION: after bleeding the clutch, check the oil level in the master cylinder. Only fill SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil (e.g.: Motorex clutch fluid 75) into the master cylinder. Do not use brake fluid or mix with mineral hydraulic oil.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

A 5

Clean the motorcycle regularly to retain the beauty of the plastic parts. Use warm water with a commercial detergent and a sponge. Coarse dirt can be removed with a soft water jet.

CAUTION: never clean the motorcycle with a power washer or a high pressure jet. This will cause the water to reach the electric components, socket connectors, cables, bearings, carburetor, etc. and will cause these parts to malfunction or break.

– Only use commercial detergents to clean the engine. Use a brush to clean any heavily soiled areas. – Before you start cleaning, close the exhaust pipe to prevent water from penetrating. –After cleaning the motorcycle thoroughly with a soft water jet, dry with compressed air and a soft cloth. Drain

the float chamber in the carburetor. Take a short ride until the engine reaches the operating temperature, applying the brakes while driving. The heat will cause the water to evaporate from the inaccessible engine and brake areas.

–Slide back the protection covers on the handlebar instruments to allow water that has penetrated to

evaporate.

– After the motorcycle has cooled down, oil or grease all of the sliding and bearing points. Treat the chain with

chain spray. Oil the fuel tap.

–To prevent defects in the electric system, apply contact spray to the emergency stop switch, the short-circuit

button, the light switch and the socket connector.

If the motorcycle is used during the winter where roads will be spread with salt, precautions must be taken to protect the motorcycle against the aggressive road salt. – Clean the motorcycle thoroughly and allow to dry after each ride. –Treat the engine, carburetor, swing arm and all other bare or galvanized parts (except the brake disks) with a

wax-based anti-corrosion agent.

WARNING: do not allow any anti-corrosion agent to get on the brake disks since this will significantly reduce the braking effect.

CAUTION: clean the motorcycle with cold water and dry thoroughly after driving on salted roads.

If your motorcycle is to be immobilized for a longer period of time, proceed as follows: –Clean the motorcycle thoroughly. – Change the engine oil, the short and the long oil filter (old engine oil contains aggressive impurities). – Check the quantity of antifreeze and coolant. –Allow the engine to warm up, close the fuel tap and wait until the engine stalls. Open the drain plug on the

float chamber to allow any remaining fuel to drain. – Remove the spark plug and fill approx. 5 cm

of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Actuate the kickstarter 10 times to distribute the engine oil over the cylinder wall and mount the spark plug again.

– Set the piston in the compression position to close the valves. – Drain the fuel from the tank into a suitable vessel. – Check the tire air pressure. –Oil the bearing points on the control levers, footrests, chain, etc. –Dismount and charge the battery. – The storage site should be dry and not have any extreme fluctuations in the temperature. – Cover the motorcycle with a permeable cover or blanket. Do not use impermeable material since it will not

allow any moisture to escape and cause corrosion.

CAUTION: Do not briefly run the engine of an immobilized motorcycle since the engine will not become warm enough and any vapor produced during the combustion process will condense and cause corrosion.

STARTING UP AFTER IMMOBILIZATION – Connect the charged battery (check for correct polarity). – Fill fresh fuel into the tank. – Inspect the motorcycle as you would before each start-up (see Driving Instructions) – Go on a short, cautious test ride

CLEANING

PRESERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION

STORAGE

Page 11

GENERAL INFORMATION

SPECIAL TOOLS - ENGINE

Page 12

GENERAL INFORMATION

A 7

FIG PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION

1 560.12.001.000 Universal engine work stand 2 800.29.002.000 Engine holder for universal engine work stand 3 309098 Silicone three bond sealing compound 46 899 785 Loctite 243 blue 10 ml

800.29.059.000 Loctite 2701 green 10 ml 5 503.29.050.000 Bleeder syringe for hydraulic clutch 6 590.29.041.000 Feeler gauge for valve clearance 7 590.29.072.000 16 mm spark plug wrench 8 580.30.080.000 Locking bolt 9 590.29.019.000 Valve lifter

10 510.12.011.000 Circlip pliers inverted 11 600.29.015.000 Piston ring clamp 12 590.29.026.006 6 mm limit plug gauge for valve guide 13 580.12.009.000 Rotor extractor 14 800.29.030.000 Timing chain riveting tool 15 590.29.033.000 Extractor for timing gear and camshaft bearing 16 584.29.037.037 Mounting tool for bearing inner rings on crankshaft 17 151.12.017.000 Bearing extractor 18 151.12.018.000 12-16 mm insert for bearing extractor 19 800.29.004.000 Gear segment 20 800.29.003.000 Clutch holder 21 800.29.020.000 Housing separating tool 22 800.29.031.000 Protection cover for crankshaft 23 590.29.005.010 Mounting sleeve for the shaft seal ring on the water pump 24 800.29.005.000

Mounting sleeve for the left shaft seal ring on the the crankshaft

800.29.105.000

Mounting sleeve for the right shaft seal ring on the crankshaft

800.29.205.000

Mounting sleeve for the shaft seal ring on the kickstarter shaft 25 800.29.035.000 Pressing tool for conrod bearing (out) 26 800.29.036.000 Pressing tool for conrod bearing (in) 27 800.29.052.000 Safety TORX TX20 for the carburetor potentiometer

SPECIAL TOOLS - ENGINE

Page 13

Page 14

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

B 1

DISMOUNTING THE ENGINE

– Thoroughly clean the motorcycle and jack up on a

sturdy work stand. – Remove the seat. – Unscrew the air filter (1). –Close both fuel taps and disconnect the fuel hoses – Unscrew both lateral bolts (2) on the spoiler.

NOTE: Hold the retaining sleeve on the radiator shield with pliers if it turns at the same time.

– Remove the tank with the spoilers. –Disconnect the ground and positive cable.

– Loosen the hose clamp connecting the water pump

(3), remove the hose and drain the cooling liquid in a

suitable vessel.

– Loosen the hose clamps on the cylinder head (4) and

the radiator (5) and dismount both radiator hoses

together with the overflow hose (6).

–Dismount the engine vent hose (7). – Remove the three nuts (8) from the radiator mounting

and pull the radiator out of the right side of the frame.

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DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

–Dismount the right frame protector (1).

– Unscrew the bearing bolt (2) on the foot brake lever

and tilt the foot brake lever aside. – Remove the retaining clip from the push rod holder (3),

pull out the bolt and the foot brake lever

–Disconnect the generator and pickup connector (4)

and remove the cable clips from the clutch line.

– Open the chain joint (5), separate the chain and

remove. – Unscrew the clutch slave cylinder (6) and let it hang to

the side.

–Dismount the positive starter cable (7) from the starter

engine. – Unscrew the engine ground connection (8). – Remove both bolts (9) and pull the starter engine (10)

out of the engine case.

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DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

B 3

– Remove the retaining bolt from the starter relay (1),

disconnect the connectors from the starter relay and

lift out the starter relay. – Unscrew the nut on the chain roller bolt (2). –Dismount the starter holding bridge (3) and lift the

battery out of the frame together with the battery

case.

–Use a suitable tool (hooked handle) to detach the front

(4) and rear (5) exhaust springs.

– Remove the exhaust nuts (6) from the cylinder head

and pull both exhaust pipes out of the intermediate

exhaust pipe (7) one at a time. – Unscrew the bolt (8) and remove the intermediate

exhaust pipe.

–Loosen the clamps on the carburetor connection boots

and remove the rear carburetor connection boot (9). – Pull the carburetor out of the front connection boot

and attach to the frame.

NOTE: leave the carburetor in the frame if it does not need to be serviced.

Move the carburetor vent hoses towards the rear.

–Disconnect the spark plug connector and separate the

decompression cable from the cylinder head.

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DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

– Remove the nut from the swing arm pivot (1) and

knock out the swing arm pivot with a suitable pipe. – Pull the swing arm towards the back and let it rest

against the frame.

– Unscrew the engine mounting plantes (2) and remove

the bolts.

NOTE: hold the engine to prevent it from tilting out of the frame.

–Lift the engine and lift out of the frame towards the

left.

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DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

B 5

MOUNTING THE ENGINE

–Lift the engine into the frame, position the engine

mounting plates (1), insert the bolts and screw on the

nuts but do not tighten yet.

– Position the swing arm and push in the swing arm

pivot (2) from the right until it touches the engine. – Lift the engine until the swing arm pivot can be

pushed through the engine case, gently tapping with a

plastic hammer if necessary. – Screw the nut on the swing arm pivot and tighten to

100 Nm. –Tighten the nuts on the engine mounting plates to

25 Nm.

– Insert the carburetor in the front carburetor connection

boot and tighten the clamps. –Mount the rear carburetor connection boot (3) and

tighten the clamps

Page 19

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

– Mount the intermediate exhaust pipe (1) and tighten

the bolt (2). –Use a suitable tool (hooked handle) to mount the rear

exhaust springs (3).

–Apply copper paste to the front exhaust pipe at the

connections to the cylinder head and mount. – Screw on the exhaust nuts (4). –Mount the front exhaust springs (5).

–Place the battery and battery case in the frame. – Screw on the starter holding bridge (6). –Mount the battery case and tighten the nut on the

chain roller bolt (7). –Mount the starter relay and fix with the bolt (8), attach

the connector.

–Grease the O-ring on the starter engine and mount the

starter engine (9), tighten the bolts (10) to 10 Nm. – Screw on the engine ground connection (11) and the

positive starter cable (12).

Page 20

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

B 7

– Mount the clutch slave cylinder (1) and tighten the

bolts to 6 Nm. – Position the chain and mount the chain joint (2).

– Connect the generator and pickup connector (3) and

fasten the wiring harness to the clutch line with cable

clips.

– Mount the bolt for the push rod holder (4) and secure

with the retaining clip. – Position the foot brake lever, secure the bearing bolt

(5) with Loctite 243 and tighten the bearing bolt to

10 Nm. – Screw on the frame protector (6) and secure with cable

clips.

–Slide the radiator into the frame from the right and

screw on with the 3 nuts (7). – Mount the engine vent hose (8) and tighten the hose

clamps.

Page 21

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

– Mount both radiator hoses and tighten the hose

clamps (1). – Connect the overflow hose (2) and attach to the frame

with cable clips.

–Connect the battery cables.

– Mount the tank and tighten the two bolts (4) on the

side of the spoiler. – Connect both fuel hoses and open the fuel taps. – Mount the air filter (5) and screw tight. –Mount the seat.

– Lift the motorcycle off the engine work stand.

–Bleed the cooling system.

– Check the engine oil level.

– Check the oil level and cooling liquid level again after

a short, cautious test ride.

Page 22

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE

B 9

BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM

– Add cooling liquid until it reaches approx. 10 mm over

the radiator fins. – Open the bleeder bolt (1) on the cylinder head until

cooling liquid escapes without bubbles, tighten the

bleeder bolt again to 6 Nm. Check the cooling liquid level again after another short ride and correct if necessary.

CHECKING THE ADJUSTMENT OF THE HAND DECOMPRESSION CABLE

–Start the engine and slowly pull the hand

decompression lever at idling speed until you feel the

thumping of the rocker arm on the lever. The free

travel until you feel the thumping should be approx.

10 mm measured at the outer end of the lever. Correct

the free travel if necessary. –To adjust, push back the protection cover (2), loosen

the counternut (3) and adjust the adjustment screw (4)

as required. Tighten the counternut and slide the

protection cover into place.

CAUTION: no free travel in the decompression lever will lead to engine damage.

ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE CABLES

NOTE: The throttle grip should always have 3-5 mm free travel. In addition, the idling speed should not change with the engine running if the handlebar is turned all the way to the left or right.

–To adjust the throttle cables, remove the seat and tank

with the spoilers. Push back the protection cover (5),

loosen the counternut (6) and adjust the adjusting

screw (7) as required. Turning the adjusting crew in a

counterclockwise direction will reduce the free travel,

turning it in a clockwise direction will increase the free

travel. –Tighten the counternut and check the throttle grip for

smooth operation. – Mount the tank and the seat.

10 mm

Page 23

Page 24

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

C 1

– Thoroughly clean the outside of the engine and clamp

on a universal engine work stand. – Drain the engine oil, remove the oil filter and the oil

screen (see Chapter A).

– Remove the kickstarter and the shift lever.

– Remove the circlip from the engine sprocket with

suitable pliers, pull the engine sprocket off the shaft.

–Remove the 4 bolts from the generator cover and

remove the generator cover.

– Pull both dowels from the housing and discard the

gasket. – Unscrew the spark plug with the spark plug wrench

590.29.072.000.

LOCKING THE ENGINE

–Turn the crankshaft in a counterclockwise direction

until the pickup sensor (1) is aligned with the edge of

the shim (2) welded onto the rotor. – Remove the plug and the copper gasket and screw in

the locking bolt (3) 580.30.080.000 by hand, turning

the crankshaft back and forth to allow the locking bolt

to engage in the recess in the crankshaft

Page 25

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

REMOVING THE ROTOR

– Remove the pickup sensor (1). – Loosen the rotor nut (2) (17 mm – LH thread!) and

remove together with the corrugated washer.

– Screw the extractor 580.12.009.000 (3) to the rotor,

hold the extractor while you screw in the extractor bolt

until the rotor is released from the crankshaft. Remove

the rotor, unscrew the extractor from the rotor.

DISMOUNTING THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

– Unscrew the plug (4) on the pressure relief valve

together with the copper washer, pull the spring (5)

out of the hole and remove the ball (6) from the

engine case with a magnet or by tilting the engine.

– Remove the water pump cover (7), discard the gasket.

Page 26

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

C 3

– Remove the circlip (1) from the water pump shaft. – Carefully pull out the water pump wheel (2) with pliers

and remove the pin (3) from the shaft.

– Remove all of the bolts in the clutch cover and remove

the clutch cover.

NOTE: the outer cover does not need to be removed separately.

–Discard the gasket and the O-ring in the water duct,

pull the dowels out of the housing.

REMOVING THE CLUTCH

– Loosen the clutch bolts crosswise to prevent the clutch

disks from jamming. Remove the pressure cap (4)

together with the bolts, spring retainer and clutch

springs.

– Remove the pressure piece (5) and the push rod. – Remove all of the clutch disks from the outer clutch

hub together. – Remove the clutch sleeves from the inner clutch hub. – Bend up the lock washer (6) for the clutch nut.

Page 27

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

REMOVING THE INNER CLUTCH HUB

– Unscrew the locking bolt. – Insert the clutch holder (1) 800.29.003.000 in the outer

clutch hub with at least 6 clutch sleeves, lock the outer

clutch hub with the gear wheel segment (2)

(800.29.004.000) as shown in the photo and loosen the

nut (27 mm).

– Remove the clutch holder, the nut and lock washer and

the inner clutch hub (3).

– Remove the stepped disk (4) and both half disks (5).

REMOVING THE PRIMARY PINION AND IDLER SHAFT GEAR

– Lock the primary pinion (6) with the special tool

800.29.004.000 (gear segment) as shown in the photo

and unscrew the nut (30 mm) on the primary pinion.

– Lock the idler shaft (7) with the special tool

800.29.004.000 (gear segment) as shown in the photo

and unscrew the nut (30 mm) on the idler shaft.

– Remove the outer clutch hub (8) with the two needle

bearings and the washer located below.

Page 28

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

C 5

– Pull the idler (1) and the freewheel (2) from the engine

case (only applies to starter models).

– Remove the circlip on the kickstarter idler gear (3) and

pull the kickstarter idler gear with the upper and lower

disk and the needle bearing off of the bearing bolt.

– Forcefully pull the kickstarter shaft (4) out of the

housing and dismount together with the gear wheel,

the bearing and the spring.

– Loosen the bolts on the shift locating drum (5) and on

the shift lock (6). –Dismount the shift locating drum with the upper and

lower disk as well as the bolt. – Relieve the shift lock spring and dismount the shift

locking lever together with the bolt, sleeve and spring. –Dismount the shift shaft. – Remove the primary pinion (7) and the gear on the

idler shaft (8), pry both woodruff keys out of the shaft

grooves.

REMOVING THE OIL PUMP

–Pry the circlip (9) on the oil pump gear (10) from the

shaft, removing the washer (11), oil pump gear and pin

(12). – Loosen the three screws and remove the oil pump

cover (13).

–Dismount the oil pump shaft (14) together with the

inner rotor (15), pin and outer rotor (16).

Page 29

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

REMOVING THE CHAIN TENSIONER

– Remove the bolt (1) together with the seal ring and

chain tensioning spring. – Unscrew the chain tensioner (2).

– Remove both valve covers, discarding the gaskets. – Loosen the bolts on the cylinder head top section,

carefully tap on the side with a plastic hammer and

remove the cylinder head top section.

SEPARATING THE TIMING CHAIN

–Turn the camshaft until the chain joint (3) is on top and

can be easily opened. – Remove the chain joint retainer, pull off the chain

shims and remove the chain joint. – Pull the chain out of the chain tunnel.

NOTE: there are 2 types of chain joint retainers, each has a different shape.

If the timing chain does not have a chain joint, use timing chain separating tool

800.29.030.000 to open the chain.

– Apply the timing chain separating tool and turn the

spindle to open the timing chain.

NOTE: the timing chain can be separated at any point. The pressed open chain link must be replaced and can be replaced by a chain link with a chain joint.

–Remove the camshaft and cap from the cylinder head.

Page 30

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

C 7

– Pull the rear sprocket (1) off of the idler shaft with the

extractor 590.29.033.000.

CAUTION: Hold the extractor and do not let it touch the chain guide.

–Pry the woodruff key from the shaft.

REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEAD

– Remove the bolt on the left side (2). – Loosen the 4 cylinder head bolts (3) crosswise and

remove together with the washers. –Lift off the cylinder head with the sleeves and gasket,

discarding the gasket.

SEPARATING THE HOUSING HALVES

– Remove all of the housing bolts from the right housing

half.

– Screw the special tool 800.29.020.000 onto the right

housing half and separate the two housing halves by

turning in the spindle. Gently tap on the side of the

housing with a plastic hammer to prevent the housing

halves from being distorted.

NOTE: do not use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the housing halves apart since this will damage the sealing areas.

– Remove the dowels.

Page 31

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT

–Lift the crankshaft out of the housing together with the

conrod, piston and cylinder liner, tapping gently on

the rear crankshaft with a plastic hammer if necessary.

REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION

– Pull both shift rails (1) out of the housing. –Tilt the shift forks (2) aside, the shift rolls (3) usually

remain in the shift drum (4) and should be removed

with a magnet.

–Press the shift drum up from below while turning it

until it can be removed from the housing.

NOTE: if you do not turn the shift drum, the circlip will get caught on the first gear idler.

– Remove the shift forks from the shift grooves.

– Set the engine case in an upright position (installation

position) and simultaneously pull out both transmission

shafts, gently tapping on the back of the main shaft

with a plastic hammer if necessary.

Page 32

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

C 9

REMOVING THE IDLER SHAFT

– Knock the idler shaft out of the bearing seat from

behind with a plastic hammer.

Page 33

Page 34

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 1

LEFT HOUSING HALF

– Remove the shaft seal ring (1) from the crankshaft. –Dismount the chain guide (2). –Dismount the diaphragm valve (3) – Remove the circlip (4) from the idler shaft bearing. – Remove the retaining bolt (5) on the shift drum

bearing.

– Heat the housing half in the oven to approx. 150° C;

the bearings will fall out of the bearing seats

automatically at a housing temperature of approx.

150° C.

Roller bearing for the crankshaft (6) Press in a new roller bearing from the inside up to the stop with a suitable mandrel.

Grooved ball bearing for the main shaft (7) Press in a new grooved ball bearing from the inside up to the stop.

Grooved ball bearing for the countershaft (8) Press in a new grooved ball bearing from the inside up to the stop.

Grooved ball bearing for the shift drum (9) Press in a new grooved ball bearing from the inside up to the stop.

The needle bearings in the starter idler and freewheel usually do not need to be replaced since they do not wear easily.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON WORKING WITH THE ENGINE CASE

Generally, all gaskets, O-rings, crankshaft bearings and the transmission shaft bearings should be replaced when repairing the engine. In addition, all of the parts need to be cleaned thoroughly, removing any residual sealant from the sealing areas.

Any bearings removed with an extractor need to be replaced.

Read the following section before you start to work. Establish the assembly order to allow you to insert the bearings after heating the engine case halves only once.

To press or knock out the bearings, place the respective housing half on a flat surface (first remove the dowels), placing the housing half on the sealing area to prevent it from being damaged. A wooden panel makes a good base.

If possible, do not drive in any bearings or shaft seal rings; if you do not have a pressing tool, only drive them in with a suitable mandrel, using the utmost care. The cold bearings will automatically drop into the bearing seats at an engine housing temperature of approx. 150° C. If necessary, tap the housing half on an even wooden surface, if any bearings stay in their seats, press out with a suitable mandrel.

Always press or drive in new bearings at the outer ring of the bearing, otherwise the bearings or their running surfaces will be damaged.

After the housing half has cooled down, check the bearings for a tight fit; if they are not firmly seated after cooling down they may turn in the engine case when they warm up. If this happens, the engine case must be replaced.

Page 35

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

– Check the oil pump housing for scores and seizing

marks. – Blow compressed air through all oil ducts and make

sure they are not clogged.

– Check the diaphragm valve for damage, replace the

diaphragm if necessary. – Remount the diaphragm valve, apply Loctite 243 to

the M4x6 screws and tighten to 1,5 Nm.

–Press the shaft seal ring onto the crankshaft with a

suitable mandrel until flush.

– Mount the chain guide, apply Loctite 243 to the bolt

and tighten to 6 Nm.

CAUTION: make sure the collar on the bolt is free of screw locking varnish, otherwise the chain guide will be blocked and may break.

– Mount the circlip on the idler shaft bearing.

– Apply Loctite 243 to the retaining bolt for the shift

drum bearing (M6x8) and tighten to 10 Nm.

RIGHT HOUSING HALF

– Remove the shaft seal rings from the crankshaft (1) and

the countershaft (2). – Heat the housing half in an oven to approx. 150° C,

the bearings will fall out of the bearing seats

automatically at a housing temperature of approx.

150° C.

Roller bearing for the crankshaft (3) Press in a new roller bearing from the inside up to the stop with a suitable mandrel.

Grooved ball bearing for the main shaft (4) Press in a new grooved ball bearing from the inside until it fits flush with the housing.

Roller bearing for the countershaft (5) Press in a new roller bearing from the inside to the stop.

– Blow compressed air through the oil hole (6) and make

sure it is not clogged.

NOTE: engine oil is injected through this hole to cool and lubricate the pistons and piston pin bearings.

–Press the shaft seal rings onto the crankshaft and the

countershaft with a suitable mandrel until flush.

Page 36

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 3

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

– Check the valve ball (1) and the pressure spring (2) for

damage.

CLUTCH COVER

–Pry the shaft seal ring for the shift shaft (3), the

kickstarter shaft (4) and the water pump shaft (5) out of

the clutch cover. –Press in new shaft seal rings with a suitable mandrel

until flush, making sure the open side of the seal ring

for the water pump faces towards the outside.

– Pull the grooved ball bearing for the water pump (6)

out of the clutch cover with extractor 151.12.017.000

and insert 151.12.018.000. –Place a wooden panel under the water pump bearing

and press the new bearing in up to the stop with a

suitable mandrel, being careful to press on the outer

ring only.

– Remove the shaft seal ring for the crankshaft (7) and

press in a new seal ring until flush. – Blow compressed air through the oil duct and make

sure it is not clogged.

–Pry out the ring lock (8) for the oil level viewer out of

the clutch cover. –Clean the hold and press in a new oil level viewer. – Mount the ring lock.

The needle bearings in the starter idler and freewheel usually do not need to be replaced since they do not wear easily.

Page 37

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

CRANKSHAFT

– Pull the cylinder liner off of the piston, lift the piston

pin retainer out of the groove and push the piston pin

out of the piston.

–Clamp the crankshaft into the vise – use protective

jaws. – Heat the special tool 584.29.037.037 to approx.

150° C on a hotplate and immediately push on the

inner ring of the crankshaft bearing. Firmly press the

tool together to obtain a good heat transfer and pull

the inner ring off of the crankshaft with the special

tool.

– Remove the spacing washers from the crankshaft.

– Pull the balance weight (1) off of the crankshaft with

the extractor 590.29.033.000 (use protection cover

800.29.031.000).

– Carefully press the inner bearing (2) upwards with 2

screwdrivers and pull off of the crankshaft using

extractor 590.29.033.000.

Page 38

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 5

–Press the outer ball bearing out of the balance weight

(on the side with the toothing).

NOTE: the ball bearing cannot be pressed out through the bottom since it will be blocked by the ring (1).

PRESS OUT THE CRANK PIN

–Place the crankshaft and a crankshaft web in the press

out tool 800.29.035.000 (2) as shown in the photo,

being careful not to jam the conrod. – Move the wedges (3) until the crankshaft lies flat. –Tighten the screws on the clamping bracket (4).

–Use a hydraulic press to press the crankpin through

with the pressing pin.

CAUTION: hold the lower part of the crankshaft to keep it from falling down.

–Press the crankpin out of the second crankshaft web in

the same manner.

– Check the crankpin parts, replace any damaged or

worn parts and clean the crankshaft webs.

Page 39

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

PRESS IN THE CRANK PIN

–Press in the crankpin until flush. The lubrication bore

(1) must point to the exact center (2) of the crankshaft

web, as shown in the photo.

CAUTION: if the lubrication bore is incorrectly aligned the conrod bearing will not be supplied with lubricating oil and which will lead to engine damage.

–Slide the conrod bearing and the conrod on the

crankpin. – Insert a suitable centering sleeve (3) in the outer part

(4) of the pressing tool 800.29.036.000 and mount the

crankshaft web with the conrod (see photo).

NOTE: Several centering sleeves belong to the conrod bearing pressing tool 800.29.036.000, since the outer diameter of the crankshaft webs can vary depending on the engine displacement.

–Slide the second crankshaft web (5) in the centering

sleeve with the pressing plate (6) on 800.29.036.000

and press on the crankshaft web.

CAUTION: the pressing plate must be positioned in the center of the crankshaft web.

To make sure the crankshaft web does not cant, press onto the crankpin from above.

– Remove the crankshaft from the pressing tool and

check the conrod bearing for smooth operation.

NOTE: after it is pressed in, check the crankshaft for runout and measure the outer dimension of the crankshaft webs (see page D7).

Page 40

D 7

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT FOR LATERAL RUNOUT

–Place the crankshaft on a roller stand or similar support

and use a dial gauge to check the crankshaft for lateral

runout.

Lateral runout: max. 0.12 mm

Check the radial clearance and axial clearance at the conrod bearing.

Radial clearance: max. 0.05 mm

Axial clearance: max. 1.00 mm

OUTER DIMENSION OF THE CRANKSHAFT WEB

– Measure the outer dimension of the crankshaft web

using a sliding gauge as shown.

Outer dimension of crankshaft web = 60 mm ± 0.05 mm

–Clean the crankshaft thoroughly, blow compressed air

through the oil holes to the crank pin (1) and to the

ball bearing in the balance weight (2) and make sure

they are not clogged.

Page 41

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

–Press the inner ball bearing (1) on the balance weight

(2) onto the crankshaft with a suitable pipe – Only press on the inner ring. Press on the balance

weight with the outer ball bearing (3) – only press on

the inner ring. –Slide the spacing washer (4) (0.2 mm) onto the

crankshaft. – Heat the special tool 584.29.037.037 with the new

bearing inner ring (5) on a hotplate to approx. 150° C

and immediately slide onto the crankshaft (see page D4). – Strike on the inner ring with a suitable pipe and allow

to cool.

CAUTION: never clamp the crankshaft with the crankshaft journal and strike on the inner ring since this will press the crankshaft webs together and the crankshaft can no longer be used.

–Turn the crankshaft over and slide both spacing

washers (6) (0.1 and 0.15 mm) onto the crankshaft. – Mount a new inner ring of the other crankshaft bearing

(7) as described above. – Measure the axial clearance of the crankshaft after you

replace the inner rings.

BALANCING THE AXIAL CLEARANCE OF THE CRANKSHAFT

–Place the crankshaft in the left housing half and mount

the right housing half. – Mount the housing bolts around the crankcase and

tighten. – Mount the dial gauge support on the engine case and

measure the axial clearance of the crankshaft.

Axial clearance 450: 0,15 - 0,25 mm

Axial clearance 501,550: 0,45 - 0,55 mm

Axial clearance 650: 0,55 - 0,65 mm

– Correct the axial clearance if the measured value does

not correspond to the setpoint value. –To correct, remove the crankshaft and the inner ring of

the crankshaft bearing (7) and pull off of the crankshaft

with the special tool 584.29.037.037 on the ignition

side. Add or remove compensating disks and remount

the inner ring (see above).

NOTE: Add compensating disks if the axial clearance is too large. Remove compensating disks if the axial clearance is too small. Only add compensating disks on the ignition side.

Page 42

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 9

NIKASIL CYLINDER COATING

Nikasil is the brand name for a cylinder coating process developed by the Mahle piston company. The name is derived from the two materials used in the process – one layer of nickel in which the exceptionally hard silicon carbite is embedded. The major advantages of the Nikasil coating include its outstanding heat dissipation and the improved power output, the insignificant wear and low weight of the cylinder/cylinder liner. It is inexpensive to repair (replace) a worn coating if the cylinder barrel is not damaged.

MEASURING THE PISTON AND CYLINDER LINER, ESTABLISHING THE MOUNTING CLEARANCE OF THE PISTON

–To establish the wear to the cylinder liner, use a

micrometer to measure the liner in the middle of the

bearing surface. – Measure the diameter of the cylinder liner in the X and

the Y axis to detect any ovality.

Diameter 450, 550, 650

Cylinder liner size I: 100,000 - 100,012 mm

Cylinder liner size II: 100,013 - 100,025 mm

Diameter 501

Cylinder liner size I: 95,000 - 95,012 mm

Cylinder liner size II: 95,013 - 95,025 mm

NOTE: mark the cylinder liner size (1) on the side of the cylinder liner, the piston size (2) on the piston head.

If measured diameter of a size I cylinder liner falls within the size II tolerance zone, order a new size II piston.

– The piston is measured at the piston skirt across the

piston pin as shown in the drawing.

– The piston mounting clearance is the difference

between the smallest cylinder liner diameter and the

piston diameter.

Piston mounting clearance 450, 550, 650 uncoated

0,072 - 0,097 mm

Wear limit: 0,12 mm

Piston mounting clearance 450, 550, 650 coated

0,042 - 0,087 mm

Wear limit: 0,12 mm

NOTE: Uncoated pistons have light-colored metal, coated pistons are dark-colored with black coating.

Piston mounting clearance 501 Piston size I: 0,040 - 0,080 mm Piston size II: 0,044 - 0,085 mm

Wear limit: 0,12 mm

Page 43

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

CHECKING THE PISTON

– Replace the piston if oil consumption is high or the

piston skirt is excessively grooved. – If the piston is to be remounted:

1. Check the piston bearing surface for damage

2. Piston ring grooves: use a feeler gauge (A) to measure

the piston ring clearance in the piston ring groove.

Wear limit: 0,15 mm

The piston rings must move freely in the groove. Use

old piston rings or sandpaper (400 grit) to clean the

piston ring grooves.

3. Check the piston rings for damage and end gap.

Mount the oil scraper ring with the "O" mark facing up.

Mount the rectangular ring with the "O" mark facing up.

4. Replace piston pins that are badly discolored or have

visible running marks. Place the piston pin in the

conrod and check for clearance.

CHECKING THE PISTON RING END GAP

– Insert the piston ring in the cylinder and align with the

piston (approx. 10 mm under the upper edge of the

cylinder). –Use a feeler gauge (A) to measure the end gap.

Compression ring : max. 0.80 mm

Oil scraper ring : max. 1.00 mm

If the end gap is larger than indicated above, check the cylinder for wear. If the cylinder wear is within the tolerance limits, replace the piston ring.

CHECKING THE OIL PUMP FOR WEAR

– Insert the inner rotor in the engine case with the mark

facing towards the outside and the outer rotor with the

mark facing towards the inside. –Use a feeler gauge (A) to measure the wear:

Outer rotor - oil pump housing: max. 0.20 mm

Outer rotor – inner rotor: max. 0.20 mm

Page 44

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 11

CYLINDER HEAD TOP SECTION

– Remove the circlip (1) and the decompression shaft (2)

out of the bore together with the spring (3). – Pull the 2 end pieces (4) out of the cylinder head top

section together with the rocker arm shafts (5) + (6).

Remove the rocker arms (7). –Clean all parts and check for wear. – Check the rocker arm shafts (5) + (6) for score marks

and smooth operation in the rocker arms (7). – Check the rocker arm rollers (8) for smooth operation,

replace the rocker arm roller if there is any radial

clearance. – The seating surfaces of the adjusting screws (9) must fit

flush. – Check the decompression shaft (2) for smooth

operation and clearance in the bearing bore. Replace

the O-ring (11). – Replace the O-rings (10).

– Thoroughly oil all parts before reassembling. – Position the rocker arms in the cylinder head top

section and mount the rocker arm shafts.

NOTE: mount the shorter rocker arm shaft (6) in the rear.

– Mount the end pieces (4) and turn so that you can

mount the bolts for the cylinder head top section. –Mount the decompression shaft (2) and pretension the

spring.

Page 45

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

CYLINDER HEAD

– Remove the chain tensioning rail. – Remove the 4 valves with the special tool

590.29.019.000.

NOTE: if you are mounting the used valves again, they must be mounted in the same valve guide as before. For this purpose, place the valves in a box, marking the position they were mounted in the cylinder head (see photo).

– Remove the valve spring retainer (1) and the valve

springs (2) from the cylinder head. – Remove the spring retainer (3) and pull the valve shaft

seals (4) off of the valve guides.

Sealing area Check the spark plug thread and the valve seats for damage or cracks. Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge to measure the sealing area to the cylinder for distortion. Max. distortion 0.10 mm.

Valve seats The valve seats may not be impacted. Width of sealing seat: intake max. 1.50 mm; outlet max. 2.00 mm. Reseat the valves if necessary.

Valves Check the valve disk for wear and runout. The valve disk runout should not exceed 0.05 mm. The valve seat may not be impacted. The sealing area should be in the middle of the valve seat. The valve shaft is hard-chromeplated. Wear usually occurs at the valve guide.

Page 46

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 13

Valve guides Use the limit plug gauge 590.29.026.006 (A) (Ø 6.05 mm) to check the valve guides. If the limit plug gauge can easily be pushed into the valve guide, the valve guide needs to be replaced at a special workshop.

Valve springs Check the valve springs for fractures or other wear (visual check). Measure the spring length with a sliding gauge. The minimum length may not be less than 38.30 mm. Replace the spring if it is shorter.

Valve shaft seals Always replace the valve shaft seals (1) if the valves are dismounted.

– Mount the valve shaft seals on the valve guides and

oil. –Place the 4 spring washers in the cylinder head. –Oil the valves at the shaft and insert in the valve

guides in their original position. – Mount the valve springs with the larger diameter

facing down, place the valve spring retainers in the

valve springs.

–Pretension the valve springs with the special tool and

mount the valve key (2).

NOTE: make sure the valve keys are seated properly when mounted. Use a little grease to position them on the valve.

–Tap on the valve spring retainers a few times with a

plastic hammer.

– Mount the chain tensioning rail, secure the bolt M5x16

with Loctite 243 and tighten to 6 Nm.

Page 47

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

CAMSHAFT

– Use the extractor 590.29.033.000 to pull both grooved

ball bearings (1) off of the camshaft (see illustration).

CAUTION: never clamp the camshaft in a vise on the cams.

– Detach the spring (2) on the automatic decompression

shaft (3) while pulling the automatic decompression

shaft out of the camshaft. –Loosen the 2 bolts M8x10 (4) and remove the camshaft

gear (5).

–Clean all of the parts, check and replace if necessary.

– Check the bearing seats in the camshaft and the cams

for wear.

– Replace both grooved ball bearings (1).

– Check the position of the automatic decompression

shaft (3) for clearance and contact surface to the rocker

arm for wear.

– Check the toothing on the camshaft gear (5) for wear.

– Check whether the bolt (6) on the automatic

decompression retainer has a tightening torque of

8 Nm.

NOTE: if you can turn the bolt, it needs to be removed, cleaned, secured with Loctite 2701 and tightened to 8 Nm.

Page 48

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 15

TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER

– Pull the pressure bolt all the way out of the timing

chain tensioner and check for smooth operation. – Check the toothing on the pressure bolt and the

ratchet for wear.

–To mount, press the ratchet in the direction shown by

the arrow to keep the pressure bolt from locking and

push the pressure bolt all the way into the tensioner

housing.

TIMING TRAIN

Thoroughly clean all parts and check for wear.

Timing gear (1) Check the toothing for breakout and wear

Tensioning rail (2) Check for seizing marks at the contact surface.

Timing chain guide (3) Check for seizing marks at the contact surface.

Chain link (4) Replace the open chain link on the timing chain after it was separated.

Page 49

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

CHECKING THE CLUTCH FOR WEAR

Pressure piece (1) Check for seizing marks and smooth operation.

Axial needle bearing (2) Check for damage.

Push rod (3) Place on a flat surface and check for eccentricity.

Clutch springs (4) Minimum length 41.5 mm (new 43 mm), replace all 6 springs if necessary.

7 lining disks (5) Minimum thickness 1.9 mm (new 2.0 mm). The lining disks must be flat.

8 clutch disks 1.0 mm (6) The clutch disks must be flat. Check for mechanical damage. Replace the clutch disks if localized points are broken off.

Inner clutch hub (7) Check for seizing marks or damage.

Pressure cap (8) Check the seating surface (A) of the steel disk for damage.

Outer clutch hub (9) Check the thrust faces (B) of the lining disks and the outer clutch hub for wear. Replace the lining disks and the outer clutch hub if the depressions are deeper than 0.5 mm.

Needle bearing (10) Check for seizing marks or damage.

Page 50

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 17

CHECKING THE KICKSTARTER FOR WEAR

Remove all parts from the kickstarter shaft, clean and perform the following visual test:

– Check the toothing and the driver running surface on

the kickstarter wheel (1) for wear. – Check the kickstarter shaft (2) for wear or damage. – Check the inner clutch hub (3) and the driver spring (4)

for wear or damage. – Check the toothing on the kickstarter idler (5) for wear. – Check the clearance of both needle bearings (6). – Check the kickstarter spring (7) for damage.

– Insert the driver spring in the kickstarter shaft, slide the

inner clutch hub into the recess. – Slide the kickstarter wheel together with the needle

bearing onto the kickstarter shaft and make sure the

inner clutch hub engages.

Page 51

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

SHIFT MECHANISM

– Disassemble the shift shaft and clean the individual

parts. – Check the shift forks (1) at the blade (A) for wear. They

are 3.9 mm thick when new; the wear limit is 3.6 mm.

– Check the shift grooves on the shift drum (2) for wear. – Check whether the shift drum is properly seated in the

grooved ball bearing (3). – Check the grooved ball bearing (3) for smooth

operation.

– Check the shift rollers (4) for pressure marks or cracks.

– Check the shift rails (5) for runout on a flat surface.

Also check for scores or seizing marks. Make sure the

shift forks run smoothly on the shift rails.

–

Check the shift rail (6) for wear at the points of contact (B). – Check the return surface (C) on the shift rail for wear

(replace if excessively grooved) – Check the guide bolt (D) for a tight fit and wear.

– Mount the shift rail (6) on the shift quadrant (7) and

attach the spring (8). –Slide the bushing (9) and the return spring (10) with

the offset facing the shift quadrant, attach the return

spring to the guide bolt.

– Check the clearance (E) between the shift rail (6) and

shift quadrant (7). It should lie between 0.40 and 0.80

mm.

Page 52

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 19

ASSEMBLING THE MAIN SHAFT (4-SPEED)

–Clamp the main shaft in a vise with the thread facing down (use

protective jaws). – Carefully oil all parts before assembling. – Mount the distance bushing (1) and the 3rd/4th gear sliding wheel

(2) with the small gear wheel facing down. –Slip on the distance bushing (3) and the 2nd fixed gear (4) with the

inscription facing up, tap with a rubber hammer to the stop if

necessary. – Finally, check all gears for smooth operation.

GENERAL INFORMATION ON WORKING WITH THE TRANSMISSION

Clamp the main shaft or countershaft in a vise (use protective jaws). Remove the gears.

NOTE: if the 2nd fixed gear cannot be removed from the main shaft, use the extractor

590.29.033.000 to pull it off together with the 6th idler gear.

Check the following parts for wear or seizing marks: –Bearings –Pivot points on the main shaft and countershaft and pivot points on the idler gears – Shift dogs of the gears –Tooth faces on all of the gears –Tooth profiles on the main and countershaft as well as the corresponding gears – Check all of the sliding gears for smooth operation in the profile

Carefully clean all parts and replace any damaged parts. Always mount new circlips when you repair the transmission.

Page 53

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

ASSEMBLING THE MAIN SHAFT (6-SPEED)

–Clamp the main shaft in a vise with the thread facing down (use

protective jaws). – Carefully oil all parts before assembling. – Mount the needle bearing (1), slip on the 5-speed idler (2) with the

shift dogs facing up. – Mount the stop disk (3) (25.2x30x1 mm) and circlip (4) with the sharp

edge facing up. –Slip on the 3rd/4th gear sliding wheel (5) with the small gear facing

down and mount the stop disk (6) (21x28x1 mm). –Slip on the needle bearing (7) aufstecken and the six-speed idler (8)

with the shift dogs facing down. –Slip on the 2-speed fixed gear (9) with the inscription facing up, tap

with a rubber hammer to the stop if necessary. – Finally, check all gears for smooth operation.

Page 54

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

D 21

ASSMBLING THE COUNTERSHAFT (4-SPEED/6-SPEED)

–Clamp the countershaft in a vise with the toothing for the Ritzel

facing down (use protective jaws). – Carefully oil all parts before assembling. – Mount the needle bearing (1) and the 2nd gear idler (2) on the

countershaft with the recess for the shift dogs facing up. – Mount the stop disk (3) (25.2x32x1 mm) and the circlip (4) with the

sharp edge facing up. – Mount the 6th gear sliding wheel (5) with the shift groove facing up. – Mount the circlip (6) and the stop disk (7) (25.2x32x1 mm). – Mount the 2 transmission gear bushings (8+9) and the 4th gear idler

(10) with the recess for the shift dogs facing down. –Mount the 3rd gear idler (11) with the recess for the shift dogs facing

down. – Mount the stop disk (12) (25.2x32x1 mm) and the circlip (13). – Slip on the 5-speed sliding wheel (14) with shift groove facing down

and the stop disk (15) (21x28x1 mm). – Mount the needle bearing (16) and 1st gear idler (17) with the recess

facing down. – Finally, check all gears for smooth operation.

Page 55

SERVICING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS

STARTER DRIVE

– Check the toothing and the pivot point on the starter

idler (1) for wear. Also check the bearing bolt for

running marks. – Check the toothing and pivot point on the freewheel

gear (2) for wear. Also check the bearing bolt on the

freewheel gear for running marks. – Remove the freewheel gear from the freewheel and

check the points of contact for pressure marks. –Dismount the freewheel (3) from the freewheel gear

(see below), check the freewheel segments for wear. – Check the freewheel gear toothing (4) and points of

contact to the freewheel for wear and pressure marks. – Replace the O-ring on the starter flange.

CHECKING THE FREEWHEEL

– Insert the freewheel gear (2) in the freewheel (4). – You should be able to move the freewheel gear in a

counterclockwise direction. – The freewheel gear must lock in a clockwise direction.

REPLACING THE FREEWHEEL HUB

–Press the spacer ring (5) together with circlip pliers and

remove. –Lift the freewheel out of the freewheel gear. –

Oil the freewheel (3) and insert in the freewheel gear (4). –Use circlip pliers to insert the spacer ring in the groove

and check for a good fit. Carefully tap on the mounted

spacer ring with a punch.

NOTE: the tabs (A) on the spacer ring must engage in the recesses in the freewheel gear.

Page 56

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 1

MOUNTING THE IDLER SHAFT

– Clamp the left housing half in the universal engine

work stand. – Briefly heat the bearing (1) of the idler shaft (2) with a

hot-air blower and mount the idler shaft, carefully

tapping with a plastic hammer to the stop if necessary.

CAUTION: do not heat the bearing too long or you will damage the bearing sealing.

– Connect both transmission shafts and insert in the

bearings.

– Move the engine case into a horizontal position and

insert the the shift forks in the shift grooves, the

driving pin (3) of the shift forks must be aligned.

NOTE: all three shift forks are identical.

–Turn the shift drum until it can be pushed into the

bearing seat with the circlip past the 1st idler gear.

– Mount the shift rolls (4) on the driving pin, fix with a

little grease if necessary. –Attach the shift forks to the shift drum and mount the

shift rails (5) and (6), the longer shift rail (5) is used for

the countershaft shift forks.

Page 57

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

MOUNTING THE CRANKSHAFT

–Turn the mark on the idler shaft gear (1) towards the

bottom as shown in the photo.

– The toothing on the balance weight has a punch mark

(2) between 2 teeth directly opposite the

compensating mass. Use a felt-tip pen to draw the

mark on the outer side of the balance weight (see

photo).

– Screw the mounting sleeve 800.29.005.000 on the left

end of the crankshaft. – Position the crankshaft in the engine case, making sure

both marks are aligned.

NOTE: to make sure the marks are aligned, gradually push the crankshaft into the bearing seat, checking the position of the marks. It will not be possible to check their position after the crankshaft is mounted.

– Unscrew the mounting sleeve 800.29.005.000.

Page 58

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 3

– Mount new O-rings on the cylinder liner and lubricate

with a little oil. – Position the well-lubricated piston on the cylinder liner

and clamp the piston rings together with the piston

ring clamp 600.29.015.000 (1).

–Tap on the top of the piston ring clamp with a hammer

to make it fit flush with the cylinder liner.

– Carefully tap the piston into the cylinder liner with the

hammer handle, making sure the piston rings do not

get caught.

CAUTION: if the piston ring clamp presses the piston rings together properly and flush around the entire cylinder, you will be able to push the piston into the cylinder by tapping lightly with the hammer handle. Excessive force usually damages the piston rings.

– Insert the cylinder liner and piston in the engine case,

insert the piston pin and mount a new piston pin

retainer.

NOTE: the arrow mark on the piston must point to the exhaust side.

–Turn the cylinder liner until the mark (2) is aligned with

the engine case, i.e. the recess in the cylinder liner is

positioned at the idler shaft.

Page 59

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

– Remove the protective sleeve. – Mount the bolts (see above photo for bolt lengths) and

tighten slightly. –Tap the cylinder liner down and tighten the bolts from

the inside to the outside to 10 Nm. –After tightening, check all shafts for smooth operation

and lock the crankshaft in the TDC position.

MOUNTING THE CYLINDER HEAD

– Put a new cylinder base gasket in place and mount the

cylinder head (do not forget the sleeves).

CAUTION: run the chain guide rail (2) between the two locating tabs (3).

M6x45

– Degrease the sealing areas on both engine case halves

and apply a thin coat of silicone gasket sealant 309098

to the sealing area on the left housing half; mount the

dowels –Place protective sleeve 800.29.105.000 on the

crankshaft (1) mount the right engine housing half.

CAUTION: do not try to draw the two housing halves together with the housing bolts. If necessary, carefully tap on the housing near the bearings with a plastic hammer.

M6x40

M6x50

M6x60

M6x65

M6x35

M6x50

M6x60

M6x45

Page 60

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 5

– Screw on the oiled cylinder head bolts (1) with the

washers. –Tighten the cylinder head bolts crosswise until you feel

a slight resistance. –Tigthen the cylinder head bolts crosswise to 40 Nm. –Tighten the cylinder head bolts crosswise to 50 Nm.

– Secure the lateral cylinder head bolt (2) with Loctite

243 and tighten to 10 Nm.

CAUTION: do not tighten the lateral cylinder head bolt any tighter since you may damage the feeder on the engine case.

MOUNTING THE TIMING CHAIN

–Mount the woodruff key for the rear sprocket (3) in the

idler shaft groove. –Heat the rear sprocket on the idler shaft on a hotplate

to approx. 100° C and immediately slide on the idler

shaft with the collar on the inside.

CAUTION: do not mount the rear sprocket in a cold condition since you may damage the idler shaft ball bearing or cause the idler shaft to be pressed towards the inside.

– Mount the camshaft with the cap (4) in the cylinder

head, insert new, oiled O-rings in the cap.

NOTE: the collar (5) of the cap must engage in the cylinder head groove.

– Lock the crankshaft with the locking bolt

580.30.080.000.

–Place the woodruff keys in the shaft grooves of the

idler shaft and crankshaft. –Mount the primary pinion (6) and idler shaft gear (7),

turn the idler shaft until the marks (8) on the two gears

are aligned.

Page 61

–Turn the camshaft gear until the marks (1) are aligned

with the edge of the cylinder head. –Allow the chain to fall into the chain compartment on

the guide side; insert the end of the chain at approx.

45º (see photo). –Continue to turn the camshaft gear in a clockwise

direction one complete rotation until the marks are

aligned again. The end of the chain will be just in front

of the rear sprocket on the idler shaft in this position.

– Run the 2nd end of the chain around the rear sprocket

on the idler shaft and check the marks again. – Mount the chain link (2) to close the chain and

continue turning the chain until the chain joint (3) can

be easily mounted and secured.

CAUTION: when you are finished, align the rear sprockets with the marks again, making sure that the cams on the camshaft point down (towards the cylinder head).

Proceed as follows to lock the timing chain: – Mount a new chain link. – Apply the insert (4) of the special tool 800.29.030.000

as shown in the photo and lock the chain link (5) by

tightening the tool spindle.

–Turn the special tool insert and rivet the link.

NOTE: rivet the link so tightly until the ends of the link have a trapezoidal cross section (see drawing)

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

45º

Page 62

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 7

– Degrease the sealing area on the cylinder head and

the cylinder head top section and apply a thin layer of

silicone gasket sealant 309098 to the sealing area of

the cylinder head. – Mount the dowels and the cylinder head top section. – Mount the bolts and tighten to 10 Nm (see photo for

bolt lengths).

NOTE: mount the M6x55 and M6x60 bolts with new copper sealing washers.

MOUNTING THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER

– Mount the timing chain tensioner with a new gasket

but without the spring and plug.

CAUTION: make sure that the pressure bolt is completely retracted (see photo), otherwise the timing chain will be overtensioned.

– Mount the 2 bolts (M6x20) and tighten to 10 Nm.

– Use a screwdriver to press in the pressure bolt until

you feel a slight resistance. Then press in one notch

further. –Mount the pressure spring and plug with a new seal

ring and tighten to 10 Nm.

ADJUSTING THE VALVE CLEARANCE

– The valve clearance (A) is measured between the valve

shaft and the adjusting screw when the engine is cold.

Valve clearance: 0.12 mm

CAUTION: if the piston is not in the top ignition dead center position, the valves will be actuated by the rocker arms and the valve clearance cannot be correctly adjusted. In this case, turn the engine one revolution further and lock again.

– After adjusting, check the valve clearance again and

tighten the counternuts to 11 Nm.

– Mount the 2 valve covers with new gaskets and bolts

(AH M5x15 bolt). Tighten the bolts to 6 Nm.

M6x25

M6x35

M6x25

M6x45

M6x35

M6x55

M6x60

Page 63

MOUNTING THE OIL PUMP

–Oil the outer rotor (1) and insert in the engine case

with the mark towards the inside (the mark should no

longer be visible once mounted). – Insert the pin in the oil pump shaft and slide on the

inner rotor (2). – Mount the shaft with the inner rotor, the mark on the

inner rotor pointing towards the outside (the mark

should still be visible once mounted).

–Attach the oil pump cover with the arrow pointing up,

secure the screws (M4x12) with Loctite 243 and tighten

to 5 Nm. – Insert the pin in the oil pump shaft, attach the oil

pump gear, slip on the washer and mount the circlip in

the groove of the oil pump shaft. – Check the oil pump for smooth operation.

MOUNTING THE SHIFT MECHANISM

– Mount the shift shaft (5), secure the bolt (6) with

Loctite 243 and tighten to 10 Nm.

–Place the (smaller) washer on the shift drum and mount

the shift lock (7) on the shift drum.

NOTE: The shift drum pin with the colored marks must engage in the hole next to the flat part (8).

– Apply Loctite 243 to the thread of the M6x20 bolt and

screw into the shift drum together with the larger

washer. Tighten to a torque of 10 Nm.

– Insert the bolt (M6x25) through the locking lever (9),

position the sleeve with the collar facing up and attach

the spring. – Secure the bolt with Loctite 243 and insert the spring

in the hole in the engine case. Tighten the bolt several

turns. – Swing the locking lever against the spring force and

allow to rest against the shift lock. – Mount the locking lever on the sleeve and tighten the

bolt to 10 Nm.

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

Page 64

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 9

MOUNTING THE KICKSTARTER SHAFT

–Attach the kickstarter spring (1) behind the

transmission gear (2) in the engine case and push the

kickstarter shaft into the bearing seat.

– Slide the kickstarter (3) on the kickstarter shaft as

shown in the photo.

–Turn the kickstarter shaft with the kickstarter half a turn

in a clockwise direction (to pretension the spring), slide

the kickstarter shaft into the housing all the way to the

stop and relieve the kickstarter. Check the kickstarter pinion (4) for proper functioning: if the kickstarter is not actuated, the kickstarter pinion can be cranked without resistance. The driver will not engage until the kickstarter is turned in a clockwise direction; the kickstarter pinion will lock when turned in a counterclockwise direction.

– Remove the kickstarter.

– Slide the kickstarter idler (5) with the needle bearing,

the upper and the lower washer on the bearing bolt

and mount the circlip.

– Mount the starter idler (6) and the freewheel (7)

together with the freewheel needle bearing.

MOUNTING THE CLUTCH

–Slide the washer on the transmission main shaft, mount

the two needle bearings and slide on the outer clutch

hub.

NOTE: since the outer clutch hub must engage in the primary pinion, the gear on the idler shaft, the freewheel, the kickstarter idler and the oil pump gear, you may need to turn some of the gears back and forth to get them to engage more easily.

Page 65

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

–Make sure the marks on the primary pinion and the

idler shaft gear are aligned and loosen the crankshaft

locking bolt 580.30.080.000.

– Lock the primary pinion (1) with the special tool

800.29.004.000 (gear segment) as shown in the photo,

apply Loctite 2701 to the thread of the nut M16x1

(30 mm) and tighten to 110 Nm.

– Lock the idler shaft (2) with the special tool

800.29.004.000 (gear segment) as shown in the photo,

apply Loctite 2701 to the thread of the nut M16x1

(30 mm) and tighten to 110 Nm.

–Place both semiwashers (3) in the groove of the

transmission main shaft and secure with the stepped

disk (4).

–Slip on the driver and lock washer, apply Loctite 243 to

the nut (27 mm) and screw on. – Insert the clutch holder 800.29.003.000 with into the

outer clutch hub with at least 6 clutch sleeves, lock the

outer clutch hub with the gear wheel segment

(800.29.004.000) as shown in the photo and tighten

the nut to 120 Nm.

– Remove the clutch holder and bend up the the lock

washer (5) of the nut.

– Insert all of the clutch sleeves, fix with some grease if

necessary. –Starting with one of the clutch disks, alternately insert

8 steel and 7 lining disks in the outer clutch hub,

ending with a clutch disk on top. –Mount the push rod and the pressure piece (6).

NOTE: insert the thinner end of the push rod into the pressure piece.

Page 66

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 11

–Mount the pressure cap (1) with the collar bolts, clutch

springs and spring retainers. – Secure the collar bolts with Loctite 243 and tighten in

several stages crosswise to 8 Nm.

MOUNTING THE CLUTCH COVER

– Insert a new O-ring in the groove around the water

duct (2). – Mount a new O-ring on the water pump shaft (3) and

grease thoroughly. –Place protective sleeves (590.29.005.010 (4) and

800.29.205.000) over the water pump shaft and

kickstarter shaft.

– Cover the teething of the shift shaft with isolation

tape. – Mount the dowels and a new clutch cover gasket.

– Carefully mount the clutch cover, tapping lightly with a

plastic hammer if necessary.

CAUTION: do not draw the clutch housing to the engine case with the bolts since it could cant and break

– Remove the protection sleeves and the isolation tape.

CAUTION: if the O-ring on the water pump shaft is damaged when mounting the clutch cover, it will cause engine oil to leak out of the hole (B).

Page 67

– Screw in the bolts (see photo for bolt lengths). –Tightening torque: 10 Nm.

– Insert the pin (1) in the water pump shaft, slip on the

water pump wheel (2) and mount the circlip (3).

– Mount the water pump cover (4) with a new gasket,

tighten the M6x15 bolts to 10 Nm.

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

M6x25

M6x30

M6x25

Page 68

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

E 13

MOUNTING THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

–Slide the ball (1) and spring (2) in the hole, screw in the

plug (3) with a new seal ring and tighten to 20 Nm.

MOUNTING THE ROTOR AND THE PICK UP

– Mount the ignition rotor and the nut (4) with

corrugated washer; make sure that the woodruff key is

mounted.

NOTE: LH thread!

– Lock the crankshaft (tighten the locking bolt

580.30.080.000) and the nut (17 mm) to 60 Nm).

– Remove the locking bolt again and screw in the M8x15

plug. – Mount the pulse generator (5) with the M5x16 bolts,

secure the bolts with Loctite 243 and tighten to

6 Nm.

–Oil the distance bushing (6) and slide onto the

countershaft with the recess for the O-ring towards the

inside.

– Mount the generator cover with dowels and a new

gasket (see photo for bolt lengths) and tighten to 10

Nm. – Slip the engine sprocket on the shaft and mount the

circlip. –Use the spark plug wrench 590.29.072.000 to screw in

the spark plug and tighten to 20 Nm.

To mount the oil filter and the oil screen and add engine oil: see Chapter A

M6x30

M6x35

M6x30

M6x25

Page 69

Page 70

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 1

CHECKING FOR LOSS OF CURRENT

Check for loss of current before you check the voltage regulator-rectifier. – Switch off the ignition and disconnect the ground

cable (1) from the battery. –Clamp an ampmeter between the ground cable and

the negative pole (2) of the battery.

Setpoint value: max. 2 mA

– If the value is lower than the setpoint value, look for

power consumers.

For example: – Defective voltage regulator-rectifier –Creepage current in the socket connectors

DISMOUNTING/MOUNTING THE BATTERY

– see pages B2 and B6.

CAUTION: when you dismount the battery, disconnect the negative pole and then the positive pole. When you mount the battery, connect the positive pole and then the negative pole to the battery.

CHARGING THE BATTERY

– Check the charging level before you charge the

battery.

To check the charging level, use a voltmeter to measure the voltage between the battery poles (off load voltage). Tolerance of the measuring device max. 1 %.

– For the measurement to be accurate, the battery

should not have been charged or discharged for at least 30 minutes.

– If you cannot determine the charging level, do not

load the battery for more than 10 hours with 0.5 amperes and a maximum of 14.4 volts.

CAUTION: do not remove the locking strips.

To load, connect the battery to the battery charger before you switch on the battery charger.

If you are charging the battery in a closed room, make sure it is well ventilated. The battery produces explosive gasses while charging. If the battery is charged too long or at an excessive voltage, acid will leak through the safety valves and the battery will lose capacity.

Avoid quick charges if possible.

Off load voltage

Charging level

Charching time

Charging voltage

Volt % at 0.5 A >12,7 100 –– ~12,5 75 4 h ~12,2 50 7 h Max. ~12,0 25 11 h 14,4 V ~11,8 0 14 h <11,5 0 20 h

Page 71

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 2

FILLING THE BATTERY

–Take the battery and electrolyte container out of the

packing. Read the instructions for use carefully before you fill the battery.

– Remove the cover from the electrolyte container. – Insert the electrolyte container in the openings in the

battery and press down firmly.

– When all of the chambers in the electrolyte container

are drained, pull the container off of the battery.

–Tightly close the openings in the battery with the

cover.

NOTE: after filling, let the battery rest for at least 1/2 hour without charging.

WARNING: follow the instructions provided on the package insert enclosed with each new battery before you fill a new battery. The insert also provides safety regulations.

Non-compliance with the safety regulations can cause severe injuries.

CHECKING THE STARTER ENGINE

–Disconnect the negative pole from the battery and

dismount the starter.

– Connect the negative pole of a 12-V battery to the

starter engine housing and the briefly connect the positive pole of the battery to the starter connector (1) (use thick cables).

– The starter engine should turn when the circuit is

closed.

– If not, the starter needs to be replaced.

Page 72

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 3

CHECKING THE STARTER RELAY

– Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir for the foot brake

and let it hang down on the side.

– Unscrew the negative pole from the battery and the

two cables (1) from the starter relay.

– Pull the connector (2) from the starter relay and

remove the starter relay from the support.

–Connect the starter relay to a 12-V battery as shown in

the drawing.

– Use an ohmmeter to check the continuity between the

screw connections.

Reading: 0 Ω OK

Reading: ∞Ωdefective

NOTE: you should hear a click when you switch the starter relay.

– The starter relay is mounted in the reverse order.

MAIN FUSE

NOTE: the main fuse (3) 10 A is located in the starter relay. It supplies the following power consumers:

–Starter system – Horn –Turn signal – Multifunctional digital speedometer

The fuse (4) is a spare fuse.

– Pull out the fuse and replace with a new fuse. Mount

the cover again.

CAUTION: never use a stronger fuse or a repaired fuse. Improper use can destroy the entire electric system.

– If you use the spare fuse on the road, be sure to

replace it at the next opportunity.

Page 73

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 4

CHECKING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR

A defective voltage regulator (1) can have the following effect: – No voltage in the circuit In this case, disconnect the

voltage regulator with the engine at idle speed. If the consumers run, the voltage regulator is defective. If there is still no voltage, the error must be in the switch, the wiring harness or in the ignition system.

– Excessive voltage in the circuit

Bulbs burn out. In this case the voltage regulator needs to be replaced.

DYNAMIC GENERATOR VALUES - KOKUSAN 4K-3B

Measuring conditions: –All plugs and the ground connection are in a non-

corroding condition, plugs are tightly connected

– The battery is in a startable condition, not fully

charged (start several times if the battery is fully charged)

–Start the engine; the measurement must be taken right

after starting

Controller output – measure the voltage with the measuring tips of the peak voltage adapter directly on the poles of the vehicle battery: – Unstressed (no electric consumer switched on), engine

running at idle speed (1400 +/- 50 rpm)

Multimeter reading: 13 volts +/- 0.5 volt

– Stressed (light switched on, horn and brake actuated),

engine running at idle speed

Multimeter reading: 13 volts +/- 0.5 volt

– Stressed (light switched on, horn and brake actuated),

engine running at increasing speed (- 8000 rpm)

Multimeter reading: 13 volts +/- 0.5 volt

NOTE: the black measuring tip on the peak voltage adapter should be applied to the ground (negative pole).

Check the charge current – remove the main fuse, apply the multimeter measuring tips (without the peak voltage adapter) to both plugs on the fuse carrier (2) and measure the current (set the multimeter DCA to 10 amperes): – Unstressed (no electric consumer switched on), engine

running at idle speed

Multimeter reading: 1.5 amperes +/- 0.2 ampere

– Stressed (horn actuated), engine running at idle speed

Multimeter reading: -1.0 ampere +/- 0.2 ampere

– Stressed (horn actuated), engine running at increasing

speed

Multimeter reading: 0.8 ampere +/- 0.2 ampere

Page 74

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 5

TROUBLESHOOTING IN THE IGNITION SYSTEM

Before checking the ignition, make sure: – The emergency OFF switch is in the ON position – The battery is charged – The main fuse is OK

Check whether there is an ignition spark upon starting: – Pull off the spark plug connector. –Disconnect the spark plug connector from the ignition wire – Hold the loose end of the ignition wire approx. 5 mm from the ground. –A strong spark should be visible when the starter is actuated. If the battery is nearly run down, turn off the light

and use the kickstarter.

– If a spark is visible, mount the spark plug connector again. – Unscrew the spark plug and insert in the spark plug connector. – Hold the spark plug against the ground. A strong spark should be visible at the electrode when the starter is

actuated. If not, the spark plug connector or spark plug is defective.

If no spark is visible during the first test, check the following parts: –Emergency OFF switch – Cable tree parts belonging to the emergency OFF switch.

If the ignition is being supplied with voltage but no spark is visible, check: –The ground connection from the CDI unit and ignition coil – The cable from the CDI unit to the ignition coil – The pulse generator – The stator – The ignition coil – The short-circuit button

NOTE: the CDI unit cannot be tested with simple devices. It can only be tested on an ignition test stand.

Page 75

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 6

CDI UNIT

Check the cables and socket connections to the CDI unit. The CDI unit can only be tested on an ignition test stand.

CAUTION: never test the CDI unit with a conventional measuring device. Highly sensitive electronic components could be destroyed.

CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL

– Disconnect the ignition coil and remove the spark plug

connector.

–Use an ohmmeter to take the following measurements:

NOTE: the following measurements only correspond to the setpoint values at a coil temperature of 20° C.

Replace the ignition coil if the measured values deviate significantly from the setpoint value.

Measurement Cable colors Resistance

Primary coil blue/white-ground

0,30 Ω ± 0,05 Ω

Secondary coil

blue/white ignition wire

6,30 kΩ ± 1,26 kΩ

Page 76

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 7

IGNITION SYSTEM

General information The measurements described below will only detect serious defects. Short circuits in the coil that lead to a weak ignition spark or poor generator capacity can only be established on an ignition test stand. In case of a defect, check the cable and the plug and socket connections in the ignition system first.

Always pay attention to the right measuring range for the digital multimeter when measuring

CHECKING THE STATOR AND PULSE GENERATOR

Use an ohmmeter to perform the following measurements:

NOTE: the measurements must be performed at a temperature of 20° C, otherwise the readings will deviate significantly.

Replace the stator if one of the measured values deviates significantly from the setpoint value.

REPLACING THE STATOR IN THE FC MODELS (4K-3A)

– Remove bolt (1) and the retaining bracket. –Remove the 2 bolts (2) and take the stator out of the

ignition cover. –Place a new stator in the ignition cover. –

Degrease the thread of all 3 bolts and apply Loctite 243. – Mount the bolts and tighten to 6 Nm. – Run the wiring harness stress free and fix with the

retaining bracket. Don't forget the cable socket.

REPLACING THE STATOR IN THE FE AND FS MODELS (4K-3B)

–Remove the bolt (3) and the retaining bracket. –Remove the 2 bolts (4) and take the stator out of the

ignition cover. –Place a new stator in the ignition cover. Degrease the

thread of all 3 bolts and apply Loctite 243. – Mount the bolts and tighten to 8 Nm. – Run the wiring harness stress free and fix with the

retaining bracket.

Ignition Measurement Cable colors Resistance

4K-3A Pulse generator coil red – green 100 Ω

± 20 Ω

Stator black/red – red/white 26 Ω ± 5,2 Ω

4K-3B Pulse generator coil red – green 100 Ω

± 20 Ω

Stator black/red – red/white 15 Ω ±3 Ω

Charging coil ground – yellow 0,65 Ω ±0,15 Ω

white – yellow 0,16 Ω ±0,03 Ω

Page 77

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 8

Check the pulse generator for an output signal – bipolar plug (1) with green and red cable colors (also see circuit diagram on opposite page):

– Apply the red measuring tip of the peak voltage

adapter to the green cable and the black measuring

tip to the red cable, disconnect plug (1) to disconnect

the CDI unit (2).

Multimeter reading: 6 volts +/- 0.5 volt

– Same measurement with CDI unit connected

Multimeter reading: 4 volts +/- 0.5 volt

Check the generator charging coil for the ignition capacitor charge for output voltage – bipolar plug (3) with black/red and red/white cable colors (also see circuit diagram on opposite page).

– Apply the red measuring tip of the peak voltage

adapter to the black/red cable and the black

measuring tip to the red/white cable; disconnect plug

(3) to disconnect the CDI unit (2).

Multimeter reading: 35 volts +/- 5 volts

– Same measurement with CDI unit connected.

Multimeter reading: 210 volts +/- 10 volts

Check the primary voltage output (4) for ignition coil control (also see circuit diagram on opposite page) for output voltage (blue/white cable).

– Apply the red measuring tip (R) of the peak voltage

adapter to the black/white cable (ground) and the

black measuring tip (S) to the blue/white cable, CDI

unit (2) and ignition coil (5) connected.

Multimeter reading: 200 volts +/- 10 volts

STATIC IGNITION VALUES - KOKUSAN 4K-3A, B

Measuring conditions: – Cold engine – Seat and tank removed –All plugs and the ground connections are in a non-corroding condition, plugs are tightly connected – Battery charged (if installed) and the light switch turned off –Gap between the rotor and the pulse generator is set to 0.75 mm – Decompression lever is pulled – Depress the kickstarter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement

Page 78

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 9

regulator-rectifier

right rear flasher

wh-re

ye-re

wh-re

ye-bl

start relay battery

starter motor

black

start bottom

flasher switch

flasher relay

rear

ye-re

brake switch

ye-re

cooling fan

ye-re

wh-gn

ye-re

gn-wh

rear light/brakelight

24.03.2003

left rear flasher

800.11.075.150

800.11.078.000

re-wh

re-bl

generator

main harness

light connector

pick up

ye bl

re-bl

re-wh

ye-bl

bu-wh

TPS

wiring diagramm

bl-wh

headlightposition light

ignition coil

left front flasher

Husaberg FE 04

horn

ye-re

ye-bl

stop buttonhorn switch

high/low beam switch

br-bl

ye-re

multi-func.-digital-speedometer

ye-re

wh-gn

flasher control lamp

driving light lamp

brake switch

front

ye-bl ye-bl

right front flasher

Page 79

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

Check the generator outlet (also see circuit diagram on opposite page) for voltage between the following cable colors:

– Between yellow and brown (ground), plug (7)

disconnected

Multimeter reading: 12 volts +/- 1 volt

– Same measurement with plug (7) connected

Multimeter reading: 12 volts +/- 1 volt

– Between white and brown (ground), plug (8)

disconnected

Multimeter reading: 19 volts +/- 1 volt

– Same measurement with plug (8) connected

Multimeter reading: 15 volts +/- 1 volt

NOTE: apply the black measuring tip on the peak voltage adapter to the ground.

Check the regulator output voltage (9) (also see circuit diagram on opposite page) with the cable color yellow/red, controller (10) connected, fuse (11) removed:

– Between yellow/red and brown (ground)

Multimeter reading: 14 volts +/- 1 volt

NOTE: apply the black measuring tip on the peak voltage adapter to the brown (ground) cable.

STATIC GENERATOR VALUES - KOKUSAN 4K-3B

Measuring conditions: – Cold engine – Seat and tank removed –All plugs and the ground connections are in a non-corroding condition, plugs are tightly connected – Battery charged (if installed) and the light switch turned off – Decompression lever is pulled – Depress the kickstarter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement

Page 80

ELECTRIC SYSTEM

F 11

regulator-rectifier

right rear flasher

rear

ye-re

brake switch

wh-gn

wh-re

ye-re

wh-re

ye-re

cooling fan

ye-bl

ye-re

start relay battery

starter motor

black

start bottom

flasher switch

flasher relay

gn-wh

rear light/brakelight

24.03.2003

left rear flasher

800.11.075.150

800.11.078.000

re-wh

re-bl

generator

main harness

light connector

pick up

ye bl

re-bl

re-wh

ye-bl

bu-wh

TPS

wiring diagramm

headlightposition light

bl-wh

ignition coil

left front flasher

Husaberg FE 04

horn

ye-re

ye-bl

stop buttonhorn switch

high/low beam switch

br-bl

ye-re

multi-func.-digital-speedometer

ye-re

wh-gn

flasher control lamp

driving light lamp

brake switch

front

ye-bl ye-bl

right front flasher

Page 81

Page 82

FUEL SYSTEM

G 1

KEIHIN FCR-MX 39/41 CARBURETOR

Page 83

FUEL SYSTEM

DISASSEMBLING THE KEIHIN FCR-MX 39/41 CARBURETOR

NOTE: Before you start to disassemble the carburetor, make sure your workplace is clean and offers enough room to spread out the individual carburetor parts.

–

Dismount the carburetor and remove any accumulated dirt.

–

Loosen the 2 screws (1) and disconnect all of the vent hoses from the carburetor.

–

Remove the 2 screws (2) and lift the slide cover and gasket from the carburetor.

–

Remove the screw (3) and pull the jet needle from the throttle slide.

–

Remove screw (4).

–

Lift the throttle slide arm and take the throttle slide including the roller (5) and slide shim out of the carburetor.

Page 84

FUEL SYSTEM

G 3

–Turn the carburetor around, remove the 3 screws and

remove the cover on the accelerator pump.

NOTE: When dismounting the cover, pay special attention to the spring and seal rings since they are easily lost.

–Take the 2 seal rings, spring and membrane out of the

pump housing.

– Remove the screws from the float chamber and lift off

the float chamber.

– Pull out the float hinge pin (1) and remove the float

together with the float needle valve.

– Remove the main jet (2).

– Remove the screw (3) and carefully pull the float

needle valve seat out of the carburetor with pliers.

– Unscrew the idling jet (4), starting jet (5) and needle

jet (6).

– Screw in the mixture control screw (7) up to the stop,

counting and writing down the number of turns.

– Unscrew the mixture control screw and remove

together with the spring, washer and O-ring.

NOTE: The spring, washer and O-ring usually stay in the hole. You can remove these parts with compressed air.

Page 85

FUEL SYSTEM

– Remove the screws (1) with special tool

800.29.052.000 and take off the throttle sensor (2).

NOTE: Only remove the throttle sensor if it is defective. The throttle sensor must be readjusted if the screws (1) are loosened.

– Remove the screw (3) and pull the connecting piece

out of the carburetor.

– Remove the 2 screws and take the intake trumpet and

the O-ring (4) off of the carburetor.

– Unscrew the idle-air jet (5) and main air jet (6).

– Thoroughly clean all of the jets and the other parts

and blow through with compressed air.

–Clean the carburetor housing and blow compressed

air through all of the ducts in the carburetor.

– Check all of the gaskets for damage and replace if

necessary.

Page 86

FUEL SYSTEM

G 5

CHECKING THE CHOKE SLIDE AND THE HOT START KNOB

Choke slide: The choke slide must be easily actuated. The piston (1) on the choke slide may not have any deep scores or deposits.

Hot start knob: The hot start knob must be easily actuated. The piston on the hot start knob may not have any deep scores or deposits.

CHECKING THE ACCELERATOR PUMP

Check the diaphragm for crack formation or brittleness. Check the gaskets for damage. Check the holes (2) for free passage.

CHECKING THE JET NEEDLE

Check the jet needle for deformation and wear.

CHECKING THE FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE

Check the needle valve for indentations around the sealing area. Make sure no dirt has accumulated between the valve seat and the float needle.

Page 87

FUEL SYSTEM

CHECKING THE THROTTLE SLIDE

The rollers (1) on the throttle slide should be easy to turn and not have any flat areas. Check the throttle slide shim (2) for damage.

ASSEMBLING THE KEIHIN FCR-MX 39/41 CARBURETOR

– Mount the idle-air jet (3) and the main air jet (4). –Place the O-ring (5) in the groove and attach the intake

trumpet to the carburetor with the 2 screws.

– Insert the fuel connection in the carburetor and fix with

the screw (6).

NOTE: The connecting piece should be easy to turn when mounted.

– Mount and actuate the choke slide (7) and the hot start

knob (8) several times, checking for smooth operation.

Also make sure that the choke and the hot start knob

lock properly.

Page 88

FUEL SYSTEM

G 7

– Mount the spring, washer and the O-ring on the

mixture control screw (1) and turn the mixture control

screw all the way in to the stop. –Now unscrew the mixture control screw the number of

turns written down during disassembly.

NOTE: Basic carburetor setting: see Technical specifications.

– Mount the idling jet (2), starting jet (3) and needle jet

together with the main jet (4).

– Insert the needle valve seat (5) in the hole and fix with

the screw (6).

– Position the float and the float needle valve and mount

the float hinge pin (7). – Check the float level (see page G13).

– Mount the float chamber together with the gasket,

position the attachment for the adjusting screw (8) and

fix the float chamber with the screws (9).

NOTE: When mounting the float chamber, make sure that the push rod (10) on the accelerator pump slides into the hole.

Page 89

FUEL SYSTEM

–Place the spring and the diaphragm (1) in the pump

housing with the inscription facing up. –Place the O-ring (2) in the groove. Fix the seal ring (3)

in the cover with a little grease and fasten the cover

with the 3 screws.

–Mount the throttle sensor so that the flat part of the

carburetor engages in the groove in the throttle

sensor, tighten the screws with special tool

800.29.052.000.

–Lift up the throttle slide arm and slide the throttle

slide, the roller (4) and the slide shim into the

carburetor so that the rollers (5) engage in the throttle

slide (see photo). – Check the throttle slide for smooth operation.

– Apply Loctite 243 to the screw (6) and tighten. – Mount the jet needle and fix with the screw (7).

Page 90

FUEL SYSTEM

G 9

– Position the slide cover with the gasket and fasten with

the 2 screws (1).

–Attach the vent hoses to the float chamber with the 2

screws (2).

Page 91

FUEL SYSTEM

ADJUSTING THE POSITION OF THE THROTTLE SENSOR

NOTE: The idle speed must be correctly adjusted before you check the position of the throttle sensor.

–Disconnect the plug and socket connection on the

throttle sensor. – Connect a multimeter (measuring range Ω x 1k) to the

blue (+) and the black (–) cable on the throttle sensor

and measure the throttle resistance. – Multiply this value by 0.15 to obtain the setting for the

throttle sensor.

Example:

Throttle sensor resistance (bl/b) = 5 kΩ

Throttle sensor resistance (y/b) = 5 kΩ x 0,15 =

750 Ω ± 50 Ω

– Connect the multimeter (measuring range Ω x 100) to

the yellow (+) and the black (–) cable on the throttle

sensor and measure the throttle sensor resistance with

the throttle grip closed.

According to the above example, this value should be

750 Ω ± 50 . – If the measured value does not correspond to the

setpoint value, loosen the 2 screws (1) and turn the

throttle sensor (2) until the measuring device displays

the setpoint value. –Fix the throttle sensor in this position by tightening the

screws and check the value again. – Connect the throttle sensor to the cable tree.

bu = blue ye = yellow bl = black

Page 92

FUEL SYSTEM

G 11

CHECKING THE THROTTLE SENSOR

NOTE: The following measurement must be performed at a component temperature of approx. 20°C.

–Disconnect the plug connection on the throttle sensor. – Connect a multimeter (measuring range . x 1k) to the

blue (+) and the black (–) cable on the throttle sensor.

Throttle sensor resistance: 4 - 6 kΩ

– Now connect the multimeter to the yellow (+) and the

black (–) cables on the throttle sensor. – The resistance should change evenly when the throttle

grip is slowly opened.

Throttle sensor resistance: 0 - 5 kΩ ±1 kΩ

(when the throttle grip is opened)

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE THROTTLE SENSOR

–Disconnect the plug connection on the throttle sensor

lösen and remove the screws (1). – Remove the throttle sensor (2) from the carburetor.

– When you mount the throttle sensor, make sure that

the flat area on the driver (3) engages in the groove in

the throttle sensor. – Degrease the thread on the 2 screws and apply

Loctite 243. – Mount the 2 screws but do tighten yet and adjust the

position of the throttle sensor.

bu = blue ye = yellow bl = black

Page 93

FUEL SYSTEM

ADJUSTING THE CARBURETOR IDLE

The carburetor idle setting has a strong influence on the engine's starting behavior. In other words, an engine with a correctly adjusted idle will be easier to start than an engine with an incorrectly adjusted idle.

The idle is adjusted via the adjusting knurl (1) and the mixture control screw (2). The basic throttle slide position is adjusted with the adjusting knurl. The mixture control screw is used to adjust the idle mixture which flows through the idle system to the engine. Turning in a clockwise direction will reduce the amount of fuel (lean mixture), turning in a counterclockwise direction will increase the amount of fuel (rich mixture).

To adjust the idle, proceed as follows: 1Turn the mixture control screw (2) in all the way to the

stop and adjust to the basic setting specified by

Husaberg (see Technical Specifications - Engine).

2 Run the engine warm

3Use the adjusting knurl (1) to set a normal idle speed

(1400 - 1500/min).

4Slowly turn the mixture control screw (2) in a clockwise

direction until the idle speed starts to drop.

Note down the position and slowly turn the mixture

control screw in a counterclockwise direction until the

idle speed drops again. Set the point between these

two positions that has the highest idle speed. If the

speed increase is too high, reduce the idle speed to a

normal level and repeat as described in section 4.

Racing pilots will make the ideal setting approx. 1/4

turn leaner (in a clockwise direction), since the engine

becomes hotter while racing.

NOTE: if the mode of procedure described above does not achieve satisfactory results, this may be due to the wrong dimensioning of the idling jet. If

a) the mixture control screw is turned in up to the stop

without any change in the speed, mount a smaller

idling jet.

b) the engine stalls with the mixture control screw 2

turns open, select a larger idling jet.

Repeat the adjustment procedure after replacing the

jet.

5 Now set the desired idle speed with the adjusting

knurl.

6 Readjust the idle for greater changes in the outdoor

temperature or extremely varying altitudes.

Page 94

FUEL SYSTEM

G 13

GENERAL INFORMATION ON CARBURETOR WEAR

Engine vibrations make the throttle slide, jet needle and main jet holder subject to increased wear. Wear leads to malfunctioning of the carburetor (e.g. over enrichment). These parts should be replaced after 200 operating hours.

ADJUSTING THE MIXTURE CONTROL SCREW

The mixture control screw (1) is used to adjust the idle mixture. Turning the mixture control screw in a clockwise direction will reduce the idle mixture, turning it in a counterclockwise direction will increase the idle mixture.

CHECKING THE FLOAT LEVEL (FLOAT HEIGHT)

To check the float level, dismount the carburetor and remove the float chamber. Tilt the carburetor until the float rests against the float needle valve without crushing it. The edge of the float should be parallel to the sealing area of the float chamber in this position (see photo).

If the float level does not have the setpoint value, check the float needle valve and replace if necessary.

If the float needle valve is OK you can adjust the float height by bending the float lever (2).

Mount the float chamber and the carburetor and adjust the idle.

Page 95

Page 96

TROUBLESHOOTING

H 1

ERROR

Engine does not switch on (starter)

Engine switches on but does not start (starter) Engine does not start (kickstarter)

Engine has no idle

CAUSE

Operating error

Fuse is blown

Battery is dead

Low outdoor temperature

Operating error

Motorcycle was not operated for a longer period of time, old fuel in the float chamber

Fuel supply is interrupted

Engine is flooded

Spark plug is sooted or wet

Electrode distance is too large

Spark plug connector or spark plug is defective

Short-circuit cable in the wiring harness chafed, Emergency OFF switch or short circuit button is defective

Socket connector on CDI, pulse generator or ignition coil has oxydized

Water in the carburetor or jets clogged

Idling jet clogged

Adjusting screws on the carburetor are distorted

Spark plug is defective

Ignition system is defective

REMEDY

Switch on the emergency OFF switch (Australia only)

Replace the fuse in the starter relay

Charge the battery and determine the cause of discharging

Start the engine with the kickstarter

Open the fuel tap, refuel, do not actuate the choke, follow start-up instructions (see driving instructions)

The highly inflammable constituents in the new fuel volatize if left standing over longer periods of time. If the motorcycle was not used for over 1 week, drain the old fuel from the float chamber. The engine will start immediately after the float chamber is filled with fresh ignitable fuel.

Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor, place the end in a vessel and open the fuel tap, – if fuel leaks out, clean the carburetor – if no fuel leaks out, check the tank ventilation and clean the fuel tap

To "pump“ the engine dry, pull the hand decompression lever, open the throttle completely, actuate the kickstarter 5 – 10 times or the starter 2 times for 5 seconds. Then start the engine as described above. If the engine still won't start, unscrew the spark plug and dry.

Clean and dry or replace the spark plug

Set the electrode distance to 0.6 mm

Remove the spark plug, connect the ignition wire, hold the spark plug against the ground (bright side facing the engine) and start. A strong spark should be visible at the spark plug. – if there is no spark, replace the spark plug – if there is still no spark, disconnect the spark plug connector from the ignition wire, hold approx. 5 mm away from the ground and start – if there is a spark, replace the spark plug connector – if there is still no spark, have the ignition system checked

Remove the fuel tank, disconnect the cable from the emergency OFF switch or short-circuit button and check the spark. If there is a spark, look for the error in the short circuit

Remove the seat, clean the socket connector and treat with contact spray

Dismount and clean the carburetor

Disassemble the carburetor and clean the jets

Adjust the carburetor

Replace the spark plug

Check the ignition system

Page 97

TROUBLESHOOTING

ERROR

Engine won't rev up

Engine does not have enough power

Engine stops or backfires in the carburetor

Engine gets too hot

High oil consumption

All of the switched on lights are burned out

Horn, turn signal and starter do not work

Battery is dead

CAUSE

Carburetor overflows because the float needle is soiled or worn

Loose carburetor jets

Electronic ignition advance is defective

Fuel supply is interrupted or the carburetor soiled

Air filter is heavily soiled

Exhaust system is not tight, deformed or there is not enough glass-fiber yarn in the silencer

Valve clearance is too small

Compression loss due since hand decompression lever is inadequately adjusted

Electronic ignition advance is defective

Shortage of fuel

Engine drawns in unmetered air

Not enough cooling liquid in the cooling system

Not enough air stream

Cooling system not ventilated

Radiator fins are heavily soiled

Foam has formed in the cooling system

Bent radiator hose

Bent engine ventilation hose

Engine oil level is too high

Engine oil is too thin

The voltage regulator is defective

Fuse in the starter relay is blown

Battery is not being charged by the generator

REMEDY

Disassemble the carburetor and check for wear

Tighten the jets

Check the ignition system

Clean and check the fuel system and carburetor

Clean or replace the air filter

Check the exhaust system for damage, replace the glass fiber yarn in the main silencer

Adjust the valve clearance

Adjust the hand decompression cable

Check the ignition system

Clean and check the fuel system and carburetor

Check the rubber sleeve and carburetor for a tight fit

Add cooling liquid (see maintenance work), check the cooling system for tightness

Continue driving speedily

Ventilate the cooling system

Clean the radiator fins with a water jet

Replace the cooling liquid, use brand-name antifreeze

Shorten or replace the radiator hose

Install the ventilation hose without kinks or replace

Check the engine oil level and correct if necessary

Use a thicker engine oil, see "Engine oil“ chapter (viscosity)

Check the voltage regulator

Renew the fuse

Check the connections on the voltage regulator

Page 98

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE

I 1

Engine FC 450/4 FE 450e/6 FS 450e/6 FE 501e/6 Design Liquid-cooled, 1-cylinder 4-stroke Otto engine with balancer weight Displacement 449 cm

501 cm

Bore/Stroke 100 / 57,2 mm 95 / 70,7 mm Compression ratio 13:1 11,6:1 Keihin carburetor FCR-MX 41 FCR-MX 39

Fuel unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium RON 91)

Timing 4 valves controlled over rocker arm and 1 camshaft, camshaft drive with single chain Valve diameter, intake 35 mm Valve diameter, exhaust 30 mm Valve clearance, intake, cold

0,12 mm

Valve clearance, exhaust, cold

0,12 mm Crankcase bearing 2 roller bearings Conrod bearing needle bearing Piston pin bearing bronze bush Piston Light allow – forged Piston rings 1 compression ring, 1 oil scraper ring Engine lubrication pressure lubrication with trochoid rotor pump Engine oil fully synthetic engine oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T SAE 10W50) Quantity of engine oil 1.0 liter Primary drive straight-toothed spur wheels 29:78 Z Clutch multi-disk clutch in oil bath Transmission (claw shifted) 4-speed 6-speed Gear ratio 1st gear 14:33 14:33 2nd gear 17:30 17:30 3rd gear 19:26 19:26 4th gear 23:25 23:25 5th gear – 24:22 6th gear – 27:20 Ignition system

breakerless transitorized DC-CDI ignition system with digital ignition advance, type KOKUSAN Generator – 12V 150W Spark plug NGK DCPR 8 E Electrode distance 0,6 mm Cooling system liquid cooled, permanent circulation of cooling liquid through water pump Cooling liquid 1.0 liters, mixing ratio 40% antifreeze, 60% water,at least –25° C Starting aid kickstarter kickstarter/electric starter

BASIC CARBURETOR SETTING

Type of carburetor Keihin FCR-MX 41 Keihin FCR-MX 39 Keihin FCR-MX 39 Carburetor ID number 4125B 3925B 3925BA Main jet 182 178 178 Jet needle OBDVR OBDVT (OBDVR) OBDVT (OBDVR) Idling jet 40 38 (40) 38 (42) Main air jet 200 200 200 Idle air jet 100 100 100 Needle position 6th from top 2nd (6th) from top 3rd from top Starting jet 85 85 85 Mixture control screw open 1,5 1,5 (2,0) 1,5 Slide 15 15 15 Restriction – slide stop slide stop Pump diaphragm stop 858 / 2,15 mm 858 / 2,15 mm 858 / 2,15 mm Hot start knob diameter 2,5 mm diameter 2,5 mm diameter 2,5 mm

FC 450/4

FE/FS 450e/6

EU/AUS/USA green

FE 501e/6

EU/AUS

Page 99

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE

Engine FC 550/4 FE 550e/6 FE 650e/6 FS 650e/6 Design Liquid-cooled, 1-cylinder 4-stroke Otto engine with balancer weight Displacement 550 cm

644 cm

Bore/Stroke 100 / 70 mm 100 / 82 mm Compression ratio 11,8:1 11,5:1 Keihin carburetor FCR-MX 41

Fuel unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium RON 91)

Timing 4 valves controlled over rocker arm and 1 camshaft, camshaft drive with single chain Valve diameter, intake 35 mm Valve diameter, exhaust 30 mm Valve clearance, intake, cold

0,12 mm

Valve clearance, exhaust, cold

0,12 mm Crankcase bearing 2 roller bearings Conrod bearing needle bearing Piston pin bearing bronze bush Piston Light allow – forged Piston rings 1 compression ring, 1 oil scraper ring Engine lubrication pressure lubrication with trochoid rotor pump Engine oill fully synthetic engine oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T SAE 10W50) Quantity of engine oil 1,0 liter Primary drive straight-toothed spur wheels 29:78t Clutch multi-disk clutch in oil bath Transmission (claw shifted) 4-speed 6-speed Gear ratio 1st gear 14:33 14:33 2nd gear 17:30 17:30 3rd gear 19:26 19:26 4th gear 23:25 23:25 5th gear – 24:22 6th gear – 27:20 Ignition system

BASIC CARBURETOR SETTING

Type of carburetor Keihin FCR-MX 41 Keihin FCR-MX 41 Keihin FCR-MX 41 Carburetor ID number 4125B 4125B 4138C Main jet 182 182 160 Jet needle OBDVR OBDVT (OBDVR) OBDVT (OBEKR) Idling jet 40 38 (40) 38 (45) Main air jet 200 200 200 Idle air jet 100 100 100 Needle position 5th from top 5th from top 2nd (6th) from top Starting jet 85 85 85 Mixture control screw open 1,5 1,5 0,5 (1,5) Slide 15 15 15 Restriction – slide stop slide stop Pump diaphragm stop 858 / 2,15 mm 858 / 2,15 mm 858 / 2,15 mm Hot start knob diameter 2,5 mm diameter 2,5 mm diameter 2,5 mm

FC 550/4 FE/FS 550e/6

EU/AUS/USA green

FE/FS 650e/6

EU/AUS/USA green

Page 100

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - CHASSIS

I 3

FC 450/4, 550/4 FE 450/501/550/650e/6

FS 450e/6, 650e/6

Frame tubular chrome-molybdenum-steel frame, powder-coated Fork WP Up Side Down 4860 MXMA Spring travel, front/rear 295/320 mm 260/287 mm Rear suspension WP Progressive Damping System shock absorber, aluminum rear swinging fork Front brake

Disk brake,perforated Ø 260 mm brake disk, floating brake caliper

Ø 310 mm Brake disk front minimum thickness 2,5 mm minimum thickness 5,0 mm Rear brake Disk brake,perforated Ø 220 mm brake disk, floating brake caliper Brake disk rear minimum thickness 3,5 mm Front tire 80/100 - 21“ 90/90 - 21“ 120/60 - 17“

Air pressure, off road 1,0 bar 1,0 bar – Air pressure, on road/alone

– 1,5 bar 1,5 bar

Rear tire 110/100 - 19“ 140/80 - 18“ 150/60 - 17“ Air pressure, off road 1,0 bar 1,0 bar – Air pressure, on road/alone

– 2,0 bar 2,0 bar Fuel tank capacity 9 liters Gear ratio - rear wheel 14:48

450/501 14:48,550 15:48,650 15:45

450 15:42, 650 15:40 Chain X-Ring 520 Available rear sprockets 38Z, 40Z, 42Z, 45Z, 48Z, 50Z, 52Z Lighting Headlight HS1 12V 35/35W

Parking light 12V 5W (Socket W2, 1x9,5d) Brake light 12V 21/5W (Sockel BaY15d) Turn signal 12V 10W (Sockel Ba15s)

License plate illumination 12V 1,2W (Sockel 1x4,6d) Battery maintenance-free battery 12V 7Ah Steering head angle 63° Wheel base 1490 ± 10 mm Seat height, unloaded 930 mm 870 mm Ground clearance, unloaded

380 mm 320 mm

FC 450/4, 550/4 FE 450/501/550/650e/6 FS 450e/6, 650e/6

WP 5018 PDS DCC WP 5018 PDS DCC WP 5018 PDS DCC

12.45.Y7.21 12.45.Y7.22 12.45.Y7.23

Compression damping 15 LS (low speed) 15 LS (low speed) 10 LS (low speed)

2 HS (high speed) 2 HS (high speed) 2 HS (high speed) Rebound damping 22 22 15 Spring 76/95/260 71/90/260 84/250 Spring preload 6 mm 8 mm 5 mm

STANDARD SHOCK ABSORBER ADJUSTMENT

FC 450/4, 550/4 FE 450/501/550/650e/6 FS 450e/6, 650e/6

WP4860MXMA WP4860MXMA WP4860MXMA

14.45Y7.28 14.45Y7.29 14.45Y7.30 Compression damping 18 19 20 Rebound damping 19 21 15 Spring 4,4 N/mm 4,2 N/mm 4,4 N/mm Spring preload 5 mm 5 mm 33 mm Air chamber length 100 mm 110 mm 110 mm Fork oil SAE 5 SAE 5 SAE 5

STANDARD FORK ADJUSTMENT