Hunter Marine sailing yacht Owner's Manual

HUNTER OWNER’S MANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION PAGE

· Warranty Registration Form………………………………………

· Hunter Warranty………………………………………….…………

· Brief History………………………………………………………….

· Glossary of Sailing Terms….………………………………………

· Explanation of Symbols and Labels………………………………

GENERAL HANDLING AND OPERATION

· Safe Boating Tips…………………………………………………..

· Pre-Departure Checklist……………………………………………

· Float Plan……………………………………………………………

· After Sailing Check List………………………………….…………

· Docking and Anchoring…………………………………………….

· Diesel Engine and Motoring……………………………………….

· Electrical System……………………………………………………

· Cook Stove…………………………………………………………..

· Toilet…….……………………………………………………………

· Opening Hull Ports………………………………………………….

· Pumps………………………………………………………………..

· Water System Operation………………………………….……….

· Waste Discharge………………………………………….………..

· Environmental Considerations…………………………………….

1 2-3 4 5-8 9

10-11 12 13 14 15 16-17 17-18 19 19 19 20 20 21 22

MAINTENANCE

· Instructions for Preparation for Bottom Painting………………...

· Engine, Transmission, and Drive train……………………………

· Compasses………………………………………………………….

· Steering Systems…………………………………………………..

· Electrical Systems………………………………………………….

· Plumbing Systems………………………………………………….

· Fuel Systems………………………………………………………..

· General Care………………………………………………………..

· Fabric Care………………………………………………………….

· Electrolysis and Galvanic Protection……………………………..

· Teak Care……………………………………………………………

· Storage/Winterization……………………………………………...

· Certification Details…………………………………………………

· Lightning Warning…………………………………………………..

23 24-25 26 26 26 27 27 28-29 29 30 30 31-33 34 35

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HUNTER OWNER’S MANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONT’D)

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL

· Profile with Rig and Sail Dimensions……………………………..

· Dimensions, Capacities, etc……………………………………….

· Deck Plan and Hardware…………………………………………..

· Deck Hardware Parts Listing………………………………………

· Accommodation Plan……………………………………………….

· Dinette Table Operation……………………………………………

· Lifting Points…………………………………………………………

· Running Rigging Layout……………………………………………

· Mainsheet Rigging………………………………………………….

· Arch Installation……………………………………………………..

· Boom and Reefing Details…………………………………………

· Running Rigging Specifications…………………………………..

· Rig Description……………………………………………………..

· Standing Rigging Layout……...……………………………………

· Spreader Details…………………………………………………….

· Standing Rigging Specifications…………………………………..

· Standing Rigging Attachments…………………………………….

· Rig Tuning Instructions…………………………………………….

· Spinnaker Details…………………………………………………...

· Engine Compartment Details……………………………………...

· Shaft and Propeller…………………………………………………

PAGE

36 37 38 39 40A-40C 41A 41B 42A-1&2 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52-53 54 55 56

SYSTEMS AND CIRCUITS

· Potable Water System……………………………………………..

· Waste System……………………………………………………….

· Bilge Pumping System……………………………………………..

· Through Hulls, Seacocks, and Valves……………………………

· Fuel System…………………………………………………………

· Propane System…………………………………………………….

· Electrical System

(See Electrical System Table Of Contents)………

· Steering System…………………………………………………….

· Anchoring Arrangement……………………………………………

· Index………………………………………………………………….

PAGE

57 58 59 60 61 62

63A-1 66-68 69 70

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HUNTER OWNER’S MANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONT’D)

EQUIPMENT MANUALS AND INFORMATION

· Engine Manual

· Knotmeter and Depthsouder

· VHF Radio (except where not provided)

· Compass Information

· Stereo Manual

· Furling System Manual

· Marine Rigging Guide

· Winch Maintenance Guide

· Steering Maintenance Guide

· Sail Maker Information

· Water Strainer

· Bilge Pump

· Toilet Manual

· Stove Manual

· Hot Water Manual

· Microwave Manual (except where not provided)

· Other:

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Welcome to

THE HUNTER MARINE FAMILY

Congratulations on your new sailing yacht manufactured by Hunter Marine. We have engineered and constructed your boat to be as fine a yacht as any afloat. In order to get the best performance and most enjoyment from your boat you should be familiar with its various elements and their functions. For your sailing pleasure and safety, please take time to study this manual.

We stand behind the quality of your boat with a warranty, which you should review. To insure the validity of your warranty, please complete the attached card and send it to us within ten (10) days of the purchase date. Section 15 of the U.S. Federal Boat Safety Act requires registration of a boat’s first owner. The warranty data should also be recorded in the space below for your own reference.

This manual has been compiled to help you operate your craft with safety and pleasure. It contains details of the craft; equipment supplied

or fitted, systems, and information on operation and maintenance. Please read it carefully, and familiarize yourself with the craft before using it. If this is your first sailboat or you are changing to a type of craft you are not familiar with, please ensure that you obtain proper handling and operating experience before you assume command of the craft. Your dealer or national sailing federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sea schools or competent instructors.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE AND HAND IT OVER TO THE NEW OWNER IF YOU SELL THE CRAFT.

You should also complete the warranty cards for your engine, stove, head, electric water pump and other accessories. These are enclosed in the manufacturers’ manuals that are packaged with your owner’s manual.

OWNER INFORMATION CARD

HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER IS ON THE STARBOARD AFT SIDE OF THE HULL OR TRANSOM.

THIS NUMBER MUST BE GIVEN IN ALL NECESSARY CORRESPONDENCE.

HULL NO. DATE DELIVERED TO OWNER YACHT NAME OWNER NAME STREET ADDRESS CITY STATE/COUNTRY ZIP CODE HOME PORT ENGINE MODEL SERIAL NO. PROPELLER SIZE DEALER PHONE STREET ADDRESS CITY STATE/COUNTRY ZIP CODE

PAGE 1

HUNTER MARINE

LIMITED WARRANTY

LIMITED ONE-YEAR WARRANTY

Hunter Marine warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the warranty period, that any part manufactured by Hunter will be free of defects caused by faulty workmanship or materials

LIMITED FIVE-YEAR HULL STRUCTURE

AND BOTTOM BLISTER WARRANTY

Hunter warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the warranty period that the hull of each boat will be free from structural defects in materials and workmanship for a period of five (5) years from the date of delivery to the firstuse purchaser under normal use and service.

This limited warranty applies only to the structural integrity of the hull and supporting pan/grid or stringer system. Hulls, pan/grid or stringers modified in any way or powered with engines other than the type and size installed or specified by Hunter are not covered by this limited warranty. The obligation of Hunter under this limited warranty is restricted to the repair or replacement of hulls that are determined to be structurally defective.

Hunter also warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the warranty period that the boat will be free from gel-coat blistering on underwater surfaces of the hull, excluding the keel and rudder, for a period of five (5) years from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser

RESTRICTIONS APPLICABLE TO WARRANTIES

These limited warranties do not cover the following:

(1) Paint, window glass, gel-coat, upholstery, engines, engine parts, bilge pumps, stoves, blowers, pressure water pumps, propellers, shafts, rudders, controls, instruments, keels and equipment not manufactured by Hunter. Any warranty made by the manufacturer of such items will be, if possible, given on to the first-use purchaser. (2) Problems caused by improper maintenance, storage, cradling, blocking,

for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service. During this period, Hunter will repair or replace any part judged to be defective by Hunter.

under normal use and service. During this period, Hunter will supply or reimburse an authorized Hunter dealer for all of the parts and labor required to repair a blistered underwater surface of the hull. The labor cost reimbursement will be based on the Labor Allowance Schedule established by Hunter. However, if a non-Hunter dealer performs the repair, the repair cost must be authorized by Hunter in advance and be based on a reasonable number of hours as determined by Hunter. Transportation, hauling, launching, bottom paint, storage, dockage, cradling rental, rigging and derigging, or other similar costs will not be paid by Hunter. We recommend that the repair be done during a seasonal haul out for service or storage.

The bottom blister warranty is void under the following circumstances: (1) If the gel-coat has been sanded, sandblasted, or subjected to abrasion or impact. (2) If the instructions provided in the Hunter Owner’s manual regarding bottom preparation techniques are not followed.

normal wear and tear, misuse, neglect, accident, corrosion, electrolysis or improper operation.

THIS WARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY AND ALL OTHER REMEDIES AND WARRANTIES EXPRESSED AND IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS. SOME STATES OR COUNTRIES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW LONG AN IMPLIED WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. THE PURCHASER

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HUNTER MARINE

LIMITED WARRANTY

ACKNOWLEDGES THAT NO OTHER REPRESENTATIONS WERE MADE TO HIM ANY CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES THAT MAY BE INCURRED ARE EXCLUDED AND JUDGED DEFECTIVE BY HUNTER. SOMESTATES OR COUNTRIES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, SO THE

WARRANTY REGISTRATION

These limited warranties shall not be effective unless the Hunter Warranty Registration Form and Pre-Delivery Service Record, which are furnished with each new boat, are filled out completely and returned to Hunter within fifteen (15) days of delivery. Responsibility for sending the completed Registration Form remains with the dealer.

It is critical that the Warranty Registration Form is signed by both the dealer and the owner and returned to Hunter. Warranty coverage cannot be initiated until Hunter receives the completed form. All repairs and/or

TRANSFER OF LIMITED WARRANTIES

Limited warranties will be transferred to a subsequent purchaser of the boat if:

(1) The subsequent purchaser gives Hunter written notice of transfer of ownership within thirty (30) days of the transfer.

(2) The notice shall include the name, address and telephone number of the

EPOXY BARRIER COAT

Should a customer wish to have an epoxy barrier applied to the hull, ( ex. Interlux Interprotect 1000/2000, West Systems, VC Tar), this will not void the five-year blister warranty. This refers to epoxy barrier coatings as mentioned above, not epoxy primer paints.

CUSTOMER SATISFACTION SURVEY

During the first year of ownership, the first purchaser will receive two Customer Satisfaction Surveys: the first (CSS #1) will be received shortly after taking delivery and focuses on the customer’s experience with the dealer and commissioning of the boat, and the owner’s initial satisfaction. The

OR HER WITH RESPECT TO THE QUALITY AND FUNCTION OF THE BOAT. ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO HAVE OTHER RIGHTS THAT VARY FROM STATE TO STATE OR COUNTRY TO COUNTRY.

replacements will be made by an authorized Hunter dealer, or at the option of Hunter, at the Hunter plant. If the repairs are of such a nature that the warranty work must be performed at the Hunter plant, the owner shall pay transportation costs to and from the Hunter plant. The labor cost reimbursement will be based on a labor allowance schedule established by Hunter and where not applicable, on a reasonable number of hours as determined by Hunter. An authorized Hunter service representative must approve any repairs and replacements in advance.

subsequent purchaser, the date of purchase, the hull number, and the name of the seller of the boat.

Hunter will mail notice of expiration dates of the limited warranties to the subsequent owner. The transfer of the ownership of the will not extend the expiration dates of the limited warranties.

If an epoxy barrier coat is applied to a Hunter vessel, it must be registered with the Warranty Department prior to application of the product. If the dealer applies bottom paint only, sanding will not be allowed and the no sanding system must be used.

second survey (CSS #2) is given nine to ten months into ownership, and primarily gives the customer an opportunity to evaluate dealer service capability and the boat’s functional systems and characteristics. Both surveys are contingent upon receipt of the first purchaser’s Warranty Registration form.

PAGE 3

HUNTER MARINE’S OWNER AND FOUNDER

WARREN R. LUHRS

BRIEF BACKGROUND

Warren Luhrs was born in East Orange, New Jersey in 1944 into a family with an established tradition in the maritime and transportation industries. His greatgrandfather, Henry, was a railroad and clipper-shipping pioneer in America, while his great-uncle John helped build the famous St. Petersburg to Moscow railroad for Czar Alexander II.

Henry Luhrs owned shares in twentytwo different ocean-going vessels – barks, brigs, and schooners - and was the principal owner of the bark Sophia R. Luhrs, named for his wife. He was also a partner with Albert Sprout, who managed the shipyard where the Sophia R. Luhrs was built in Melbridge, Maine.

Warren Luhrs’ father Henry worked at a small boat manufacturer in Morgan, New Jersey, and later started his own company, continuing the Luhrs’ family sea tradition during the great depression. During World War II he repaired boats and installed ice sheathing on their bows for the Coast Guard.

After the War, Henry built 27-foot fishing boats and in 1948 began to construct custom-built pleasure craft. He then turned to skiffs and in 1952 incorporated as Henry Luhrs Sea Skiffs, where he constructed lapstrake sea skiffs using assembly-line techniques. Henry personally “shook down” his prototypes on family trips up the Hudson River to Lake Champlain.

The sea skiff is a class of boat that has been very popular, owing to its seaworthiness. It features a sharp bow, which reduces pounding in surf or

choppy seas, and a hull whose forward section is rounded below the waterline to increase stability in rough water or a following sea. Such skiffs can either be smooth sided or of a lapstrake construction.

Inspired by Henry Ford, Henry Luhrs’ aimed to give the average man the opportunity to enjoy the luxury of boating by building an affordable and reliable boat. He was both designer and engineer, and his progressive new models exhibited his talent for innovation. He successfully changed the line of the bow from straight to curved at a time when the industry trend was a straight square effect, and he is believed to be the first designer-builder to popularize a small boat with a fly bridge.

In 1960, Luhrs acquired the Ulrichsen Boat Company of Marlboro, New Jersey. It was here that Luhrs’ Alura fiberglass division was located. In 1965, Henry sold his company to Bangor Arrostook Railroad, which was to become the recreational conglomerate Bangor-Punta. It was also during this period that Silverton of Tom’s River, New Jersey was purchased by John and Warren Luhrs.

Today, Warren R. Luhrs and his brother John own the Luhrs Group of marine manufacturers, which consists of Silverton Marine, Mainship Motor Yachts, and Luhrs Fishing Boats with its Alura division, as well as Hunter Marine, which exclusively manufactures sailboats.

In January of 1996, the Luhrs family transferred a portion of the Luhrs Group to its employees through an ESOP program.

PAGE 4

GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Aback: describes a sail when the wind

strikes it on the lee side.

Abaft: towards the boat’s stern. Abeam: at right angles to the center-

line of the boat.

Aft: at or near the stern. Amidships: the center of the boat,

athwartships and fore and aft.

Anti-fouling: a poisonous paint compound used to protect the underwater part of a hull from marine growths. Apparent wind: The direction and speed of the wind felt by the crew. It is a combination of true wind and that created by the movement of the boat. Astern: behind the boat; to go astern is to drive the boat in reverse. Athwartships: at right angles to the fore and aft line of the boat.

Back: when a wind backs, it shifts

anticlockwise. Back a sail: to sheet it to windward so that the wind fills on the side that is normally to leeward. Backstay: a stay that supports the mast from aft and prevents its forward movement. Ballast: extra weight, usually lead or iron, placed low in the boat or externally on the keel to provide stability. Ballast keel: a mass of ballast bolted to the keel to increase stability and prevent a keel boat from capsizing. Batten: a light, flexible strip fed into a batten pocket at the leech of the sail to support the roach. Beam: 1, the maximum breadth of a boat; 2, a transverse member that supports the deck; 3, on the beam means that an object is at right angles to the centerline. Bear away: to steer the boat away from the wind. Bearing: the direction of an object from an observer, measured in degrees true or magnetic. Beat: to sail a zigzag course towards the wind, close-hauled on alternate

tacks.

Delay: to make fast a rope around a

cleat, usually with a figure-of-eight knot. Bend: 1, to secure a sail to a spar before hoisting; 2, to moor a boat; 3, a sleeping place on board.

Bight: a bend or loop in a rope. Bilge: the lower, round part inside the

hull where the water collects. Block: a pulley in a wooden or plastic case, consisting of a sheave around which a rope runs. It is used to change the direction of pull. Boot-topping: a narrow colored stripe painted between the bottom paint and the topside enamel.

Bottlescrew: see Rigging screw. Broach: when a boat running

downwind slews broadside to the wind and heels dangerously. It is caused by heavy following seas or helmsman’s error. Broad reach: the point of sailing between a beam reach and a run, when the wind blows over a quarter. Bulkhead: a partition wall in a boat normally fitted athwartships

Caulk: to make the seams between

wooden planks watertight by filling with cotton, oakum or a compound. Cavitation: the formation of a vacuum around a propeller, causing a loss in efficiency. Center-board: a board lowered through a slot in the keel to reduce leeway. Center-line: center of the boat in a fore and aft line. Center of effort (COE): the point at which all the forces acting on the sails are concentrated.

Center of lateral resistance (CLR):

the underwater center of pressure about which a boat pivots when changing course. Chain pawl: a short lug which drops into a toothed rack to prevent the anchor chain running back. Chain plate: a metal plate bolted to the boat to which the shrouds or backstays are attached. Chart datum: reference level on a chart below which the tide is unlikely to fall. Soundings are given below

chart datum. The datum level varies according to country and area. Chine: the line where the bottom of the hull meets the side at an angle. Cleat: a wooden, metal or plastic fitting around which rope is secured. Clevis pin: a locking pin through which a split ring is passed to prevent accidental withdraw. Clew: the after, lower center of a sail where the foot and leech meet. Close-hauled: the point of sailing closest to the wind; see also beat. Close reach: the point of sailing between close-hauled and a beam reach, when the wind blows forward of the beam. Close-winded: describes a boat able to sail very close to the wind. Coaming: the raised structure surrounding a hatch, cockpit, etc., which prevents water entering. Cotter pin: soft, metal pin folded back on itself to form an eye. Course: the direction in which a vessel is steered, usually given in degrees; true, magnetic or compass. Cringle: 1, a rope loop, found at either end of a line of reef points; 2, an eye in a sail.

Dead run: running with the wind

blowing exactly aft, in line with the center-line. Deviation: the difference between the direction indicated by the compass needle and the magnetic meridian; caused by object aboard. Displacement: 1, the weight of water displaced by a boat is equal to the weight of the boat; 2, a displacement hull is one that displaces its own weight in water and is only supported by buoyancy, as opposed to a planning hull which can exceed its hull, or displacement, speed. Downhaul: a rope fitted to pull down a sail or spar. Draft: the vertical distance from the waterline to the lowest point of the keel. Drag: 1, an anchor drags when it fails to hole; 2, the force of wind on the sails, or water on the hull, which impedes the boat’s progress.

PAGE

GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Drift: 1, to float with the current or wind; 2, US the speed of a current (rate UK); 3, UK: the distance a boat is carried by a current in a given time. Drogue: a sea anchor put over the stern of a boat or life raft to retard drift. Drop keel: a retractable keel which can be drawn into the hull, when entering shallow waters and recovering on to a trailer.

Eye of the wind: direction from which

the true wind blows.

Fair: well-faired line or surface is

smoother with no bumps, hollows or abrupt changes in directions. Fairlead: a fitting through which a line is run to alter the lead of the line. Fathom: the measurement used for depths of water and lengths or rope. 1 fathom = 6 ft. or 1.83m. Fid: a tapered tool used for splicing heavy rope and for sail-making, often hollow. Fiddle: a raised border for a cabin table, chart table etc., to prevent objects falling off when the boat heels. Fix: the position of the vessel as plotted from two or more position lines. Forestay: the foremost stay, running from the masthead to the stemhead, to which the headsail is hanked. Freeboard: vertical distance between the waterline and the top of the deck.

Genoa: a large headsail, in various

sizes, which overlaps the mainsail and is hoisted in light to fresh winds on all points of sailing. Gimbals: two concentric rings, pivoted at right angles, which keeps objects horizontal despite the boat’s motion, e. g. compass and cooker. Go about: to turn the boat through the eye of the wind to change tack. Gooseneck: the fitting attaching the boom to the mast, allowing it to move in all directions. Goosewing: to boom-out the headsail to windward on a run by using a

whisker pole to hold the sail on the opposite side to the mainsail. Ground tackle: general term used for anchoring gear. Guard rail: a metal rail fitted around the boat to prevent the crew falling overboard. Gudgeon: a rudder fitting. It is the eye into which the pintle fits. Guy: a steadying rope for a spar; a spinnaker guy controls the fore and aft position of the spinnaker pole; the foreguy holds the spinnaker pole forward and down. Gybe: to change from one tack to another by turning the stern through the wind.

Halyard: rope used to hoist and lower

sails. Hank: fitting used to attach the luff of a sail to a stay. Hatch: an opening in the deck giving access to the interior.

Hawes pipe: see Navel pipe. Head-topwind: when the bows are

pointing right into the wind. Headfoil: a streamlined surround to a forestay, with a groove into which a headsail luff slides.

Heads: the toilet. Headway: the forward movement of a

boat through the water. Heave-to: to back the jib and lash the tiller to leeward; used in heavy weather to encourage the boat to lie quietly and to reduce headway. Heaving line: a light line suitable for throwing ashore.

Heel: to lean over to one side.

Isobars: lines on a weather map

joining places of equal atmospheric

pressure.

Jackstay: a line running fore and aft,

on both sides of the boat, to which safety harnesses are clipped. Jury: a temporary device to replace lost or damaged gear.

Keel: the main backbone of the boat

to which a ballast keel is bolted or

through which the centerboard passes. Kicking strap: a line used to pull the boom down, to keep it horizontal, particularly on a reach or run.

Lanyard: a short line attached to one

object, such as a knife, with which it is secured to another. Leech: 1, the after edge of a triangle sail; 2, both side edges of a square sail. Leehelm: the tendency of a boat to bear away from the wind. Lee shore: a shore on to which the wind blows. Leeward: away from the wind; the direction to which the wind blows. Leeway: the sideways movement of a boat off its course as a result of the wind blowing on one side of the sails. Lifeline: a wire or rope rigged around the deck to prevent the crew falling overboard. Limber holes: gaps left at the lower end of frames above the keel to allow water to drain to the lowest point of the bilges. List: a boat’s more or less permanent lean to one side, owing to the improper distribution of weight, e.g., ballast or water. Log: 1, an instrument for measuring a boat’s speed and distance traveled through the water; 2, to record in a book the details of a voyage, usually distances covered and weather. Luff: the forward edge of a sail. To luff up is to turn a boat’s head right into the wind. Luff groove: a groove in a wooden or metal spar into which the luff of a headsail is fed.

Lurch: the sudden roll of a boat.

Marlin spike: a pointed steel or

wooden spike used to open up the strands of rope or wire then splicing. Mast Step: the socket in which the base of the mast is located. Measured mile: a distance of one nautical mile measured between buoys or transits/ranges ashore, and marked on the chart.

PAGE

GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Member: a part of the skeleton of the hull, such as a stringer laminated into fiberglass hull to strengthen it. Meridian: an imaginary line encircling the Earth that passes through the poles and cuts at right angles through the Equator. All lines of longitude are meridians. Mizzen: 1, the shorter, after-mast on a ketch or yawl; 2, the fore and aft sail set on this mast.

Navel pipe: a metal pipe in the

foredeck through which the anchor chain passes to the locker below. Noon Sight: a vessel’s latitude can be found, using a sextant, when a heavenly body on the observer’s meridian is at its greatest altitude. The sight of the sun at noon is the one most frequently taken.

Off the wind: with the sheets slacked off, not close-hauled. On the wind: close-hauled. Out haul: a rope used to pull out the

foot of a sail. Overall length (LOA): the boat’s extreme length, measured from the foremost past of the bow to the aftermost part of the stern, excluding bowspirt, self-steering gear etc.

Painter: the bow line by which a

dinghy, or tender, is towed or made fast. Pintle: a rudder fitting with a long pin that fits into the gudgeon to form a hinged pivot for the rudder. Pitch: 1, the up and down motion of the bows of a boat plunging over the waves; 2, the angle of the propeller blades. Point of sailing: the different angles from which a boat may sail; the boat’s course relative to the direction of the wind. Port: the left-hand side of the boat, looking forward (opp. of starboard). Port tack: a boat is on a port tack when the wind strikes the port side first and the mainsail is out to starboard. A boat on the port tack

gives way to a boat on a starboard tack. Position line/ Line of position: a line drawn on a chart, as a result of taking a bearing, along which the boat’s position must be i.e. Two position lines give a fix. Pulpit: a metal guard rail fitted at the bows of a boat to provide safety for the crew. Pushpit: a metal guard rail fitted at the stern.

Quarter: the portion of the boat

midway between the stern and the beam; on the quarter means about 45 degrees abaft the beam.

Rake: the fore and aft deviation from

the perpendicular of a mast or other feature of a boat. Range: 1, see transit; 2, of tides, the difference between the high and low water levels of a tide; 3, the distance at which a light can be seen. Rating: a method of measuring certain dimensions of a yacht to enable it to take part in handicap races. Reach: to sail with the wind approximately on the beam; all sailing points between running and close- hauled. Reef: to reduce the sail area by folding or rolling surplus material on the boom or forestay. Reefing pennant: strong line with which the luff or leech cringle is pulled down to the boom when reefing. Rhumb line: a line cutting all

meridians at the same angle; the course followed by a boat sailing in a

fixed direction. Riding light to anchor light: an allaround white light, usually hoisted on the forestay, to show that a boat under 50 ft. (15m.)is at anchor. It must be visible for 2 mls. (3 km.). Rigging screw: a deck fitting with which the tensions of standing rigging, e.g. stays, shrouds, etc. are adjusted. Roach: the curved part of the leech of a sail that extends beyond the direct line from head to clew.

Run: to run with the wind aft and with the sheets eased well out. Running rigging: all the moving lines, such as sheets and halyards, used in the setting and trimming of sails.

Scope: the length of rope or cable

paid out when mor anchoring. Scuppers: 1, holes in the toe rail that allow water to drain off the deck; 2, drain cockpit through hull. Seacock: a valve that shuts off an underwater inlet or outlet passing through the hull. Seize: to bind two ropes together, or a rope to a spar, with a light line. Serve: to cover and protect a splice or part of a rope with twine bound tightly against the lay. Serving mallet: tool with a grooved head, used when serving a rope to keep the twine at a constant and high tension. Set: 1, to hoist a sail; 2, the way in which the sails fit; 3, the direction of tidal current or steam. Shackle: a metal link with a removable bolt across the end; of various shapes: D, U. Sheave: a grooved wheel in a block or spar for a rope to run on. Sheet: the rope attached to the clew of a sail or to the boom, enabling it to be controlled or trimmed. Shrouds: ropes or wires, usually in pairs, led from the mast to the chain plates at deck level to prevent the mast falling sideways; part of the standing rigging. Sloop: a single-masted sailing boat with a mainsail and one head sail. Spar: a general term for any wooden or metal pole, e.g., mast or boom, used to carry or give shape to sails. Spindrift: spray blown along the surface of the sea. Spinnaker: a large, light, balloon shaped sail set when reaching or running. Splice: to join ropes or wire by unlaying the strands and interweaving them.

Split pin: see cotter pin.

PAGE

GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Spreaders: horizontal struts attached to the mast, which extends to the shrouds and help to support the mast. Stall: a sail stalls when the airflow over it breaks up, causing the boat to lose way. Stanchion: upright metal post bolted to the deck to support guardrails or lifelines. Standing part: the part of a line not used when making a knot; the part of a rope that is made fast, or around which the knot is tied. Standing rigging: the shrouds and stays that are permanently set up and support the mast. Starboard: right-hand side of a boat looking forward (opp. of port). Starboard tack: a boat is the starboard tack when the wind strikes the starboard side first and the boom is out to the port. Stay: wire or rope which supports the mast in a fore and aft direction; part of the standing rigging. Steerage way: a boat has steerage way when it has sufficient speed to allow it to be steered, or to answer the helm. Stem: the timer at the bow, from the keel upward, to which the planking is attached. Sternway: the backward, stern-first movement of a boat. Stringer: a fore and aft member, fitted to strengthen the frames.

Tack: 1, the lower forward corner of a

sail; 2, to turn the boat through the wind so that it blows on the opposite sides of the sails. Tacking: working to windward by sailing close-hauled on alternate courses so that the wind is first on one side of the boat, then on the other. Tack pennant: a length of wire with an eye in each end, used to raise the tack of a headsail some distance off the deck. Tackle: a purchase system comprising of rope and blocks that is used to gain mechanical advantage. Tang: a strong metal fitting by which standing rigging is attached to the mast or other spar.

Tender of dinghy: a small boat used to ferry stores and people to a yacht. Terminal fitting: fitting at the end of a wire rope by which a shroud or stay can be attached to the mast, a tang or a rigging screw/ turnbuckle. Tide: the vertical rise and fall of the oceans caused by the gravitational attraction of the moon. Toe rail: a low strip of metal or molding running around the edge of the deck. Topping lift: a line from the masthead to a spar, normally the boom, which is used to raise it. Topsides: the part of a boat’s hull that is above the waterline. Track: 1, the course a boat has made good; 2, a fitting on the mast or boom into which the slides on a sail fit; 3, a fitting along which a traveller runs, used to alter the angle of the sheets. Transit: two fixed objects are in transit when seen in line; two transit give position fix. Traveller: 1, a ring or hoop that can be hauled along a spar; 2, a fitting that slides in a track and is used to alter the angle of the sheets. Trim: 1, to adjust the angle of the sails, by means of sheets, so that they work most efficiently; 2, to adjust the boat’s load, and thus the fore and aft angle at which it floats. True wind: the direction and speed of the wind felt when stationary, at anchor or on land.

Turnbuckle: see Rigging screw.

Under way: a boat is under way when

it is not made fast to shore, at anchor or aground. Uphaul: a line used to raise something vertically, e.g., the spinnaker pole.

Veer: 1, the wind veers when it shifts

in clockwise direction; 2, to pay out anchor cable or rope in a gradual, controlled way.

Wake: the disturbed water left astern

of a boat.

Waterline: the line along the hull at which a boat floats. Waterline length (WL): the length of a boat from stem to stern at the waterline. It governs the maximum speed of displacement hull and effects a boats rating.

Weather helm: ( opp. of lee helm). Weather side: the side of a boat on

which the wind is blowing. Wetted surface: the area of the hull under water. Whisker pole: a light pole used to hold out the clew of a headsail when running. Winch: a mechanical device, consisting usually of a metal drum turned by a handle, around which a line is wound to give the crew more purchasing power when hauling taut a line, e.g. a jib sheet. Windage: those parts of a boat that increase drag, e.g., rigging, spars, crew, etc. Windlass: a winch with a horizontal shaft and a vertical handle, used to haul up the anchor chain. Windward: the direction from which the wind blows; towards the wind (opp. of leeward).

Yawl: a two masted boat with a

mizzen stepped aft of the rudder stock/ post.

PAGE

EXPLANATION OF SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

This manual contains safety precautions that must be observed when

operating or servicing your boat.

Review and understand these instructions.

Denotes an extreme intrinsic hazard exists which would

result in high probability of death or irreparable injury if proper

precautions are not taken

Denotes a hazard exists which can result in injury or death if

proper precautions are not taken

Denotes a reminder of safety practices or directs attention to

unsafe practices which could result in personal injury or

damage to the craft or components

PAGE 9

SAFE BOATINGTIPS

BE PREPARED

Take a safe boating course. In the U.S., contact your local Boating Industry for details. Carry all safety equipment required by the laws that apply to your area. Requirements are generally available from the Coast Guard or your local boating industry.

MINIMUM RECOMMENDED SAFETY EQUIPMENT

 Required life saving equipment,

including life vests and throwables

 Required fire extinguishing

equipment

 First Aid kit  Emergency Position Indicating

Radio Beacon (EPIRB)

 Manual bailing device  Anchor with sufficient line and/or

chain

 Flashlight with good batteries  Binoculars  VHF radio  Appropriate navigational charts  Flares

As the owner of the craft,

obtaining and maintaining

necessary safety equipment is your

responsibility. For more

information about equipment

required, contact local boating

authorities

 Fog bell  Noise emitting device  Radar reflector  Sufficient food and water

provisions

 Auxiliary starting battery  Spare fuses and bulbs  Sunglasses and block  Blanket

The legally required on-board safety equipment may vary by region or body of water. Please check with local authorities prior to departure for a safety examination.

LIFE JACKETS

A life jacket may save your life, but only if you wear it. Keep jackets in a readily accessible place – not in a closed compartment or stored under other gear. Remove them from any packaging, and keep throwable floatation devices ready for immediate use.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

Approved fire extinguishers are required on most boats, local authorities can provide details. All passengers should know the location and operating procedure of each fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishers are normally classified according to fire type. Be familiar with the type of fire extinguishers you have on board.

PAGE

It is very important that children,

handicapped people, and non-swimmers wear lifejackets at all times. Make sure all passengers are properly instructed in use

of life saving gear

Your boat has been equipped with an Automatic Fire Extinguisher. In

the event of a fire in your engine compartment, this unit will automatically discharge. Please read your SEA-FIRE manual for operating instructions, maintenance and precautionary information.

SAFE BOATINGTIPS

FLARES

Most boats operating on coastal waters are required to carry approved visual distress signals, therefore check with your local authorities as to which types are required.

DRUGS AND BOATING

Consumption of alcohol while boating is not recommended. The combination of noise, sun, wind, and motion act to produce fatigue on the water, and can exaggerate the effects of alcohol.

FIRE/EXPLOSION HAZARD; Pyrotechnic signaling devices can cause injury and property damage if not handled properly. Follow manufacturer’s directions regarding the proper use of signaling devices.

IMPAIRED OPERATION HAZARD Operating any boat while is intoxicated or under the influence of drugs is both dangerous and illegal. Impaired vision or judgment on the water can lead to accidents and personal injury

BEFORE GETTING UNDERWAY

 Leave a float plan (example on

p. 13)

 Perform a pre-departure

checklist (example on p. 12)

 Keep a good lookout. Keep a

watch to the leeward under the headsail. Keep away from swimmers, divers, and skiers.

 Know and obey local boating

laws.

 Respect bad weather, and be

prepared for quickly changing conditions.

 Check the weather. Do not

venture out if the weather is, or will be, threatening.

WHILE UNDERWAY

COLLISION HAZARD Use extra caution in shallow water or where underwater/floating objects may be present. Hitting an object at speed or severe angle can seriously injure people and damage your boat

PAGE 11

PRE-DEPARTURE CHECKLIST

 Check bilge for extra water  Check weather conditions and tides  Check food supply  Foul weather gear  Linen, sleeping bags  Fuel  Water  Sunscreens and sunglasses  Tools  Docking and anchor gear  Check radio operations  Navigation charts and instruments  Float plans to a friend or Coast Guard (see next page)  Fuel for stove  Cooking and eating utensils  Check battery water level  Oil level, tight Vp-belts  Check for loose electrical connections in engine compartment  Secure tools or any loose equipment in engine compartment so as

not to get fouled in engine

 AC systems off; electrical cord stowed  Doors and drawers secured  Check steering lock to lock  Check mast for rigging irregularities and tightness  Halyards and sheets are clear and ready to run  No lines or other obstructions near propeller or bow  Anchor ready to run  Check lifelines for tightness  Turn on fuel and waterlines  Stow all loose gear  Open engine cooling water intake thru-hull valve

PAGE 12

FLOAT PLAN

1. Name of person reporting and telephone number:

2. Description of boat

NAME TYPE MAKE LENGTH REGISTRATION# HULL COLOR STRIPE COLOR DECK COLOR OTHER DISTINGUISHING MARKS

3. Number of Persons aboard NAME AGE PHONE #

ADDRESS NAME AGE PHONE # ADDRESS NAME AGE PHONE # ADDRESS

4. Engine TYPE H.P. FUEL CAPACITY

5. Safety equipment

PFDs Flares Mirror Flashlight Food Water EPIRB Raft/Dinghy

6. Radio

TYPE FREQUENCIES

7. Trip Expectations

DEPARTURE TIME DATE FROM DESTINATION RETURN DATE NO LATER THAN

8. Automobile: LICENSE # STATE MAKE

COLOR PARKED AT

9. If not returned by-

Contact the Coast Guard or CALL - AT-

PAGE 13

AFTER SAILING CHECKLIST

When leaving your Hunter at the dock for more than a short time, it is a good idea to review the following checklist to make sure everything is in order. This

 Flake or furl mainsail and cover, or remove and bag.

 Remove and stow all portable deck hardware such as snatch blocks, winch

handles, etc.

 Secure the boom to the topping lifts and set it firmly amidships with the main

sheet purchase. (It is also a good idea to rig a line from the steering wheel or tiller to a convenience cleat to keep the rudder from swinging back and forth with the motion of the water or employ the wheel brake if so equipped.)

 Attach the shackle ends of all halyards to convenient fittings and take up

slack. Find a location leading away from the mast to keep the halyard from slapping the mast.

will help protect the various parts of your boat and add considerably to their attractiveness and usable life.

 Coil and stow all lines in line lockers

 Cover the winches and steering pedestal when leaving the boat for several

days or more

 Close all fuel lines and seacocks

 Switch off the electrical system

 Pump out the bilge

 Check air vents, secure ports and hatches, swab the deck, and clean deck

stainless, particularly if you have operated in saltwater.

 Make a final check of mooring lines, chafing gear, fenders, etc.

PAGE 14

SAFE BOATING TIPS

DOCKING

Docking your boat should be handled carefully to avoid potential damage. Under normal wind and water conditions, the following considerations should be made:

1. Whenever possible, your approach should be made against the prevailing wind and current to assist in stopping the boat. Where these conditions are contrary, the strongest should be used to determine approach.

2. Approaching the dock: dock lines should be at ready, loose gear stowed and decks cleared. Determine the direction of the wind and current and when you decide which side of the boat will be against the dock, rig dock lines and fenders on the appropriate side.

One dock line should be attached to the bow cleat, another to the stern cleat opposite the side that will lie against the dock. NOTE: If the boat is to lie against

a piling, rig a fender board across two or more pilings.

3. Tying up: attach bow and stern lines to dock, hauling boat in with fenders against dock. Rig crossing spring lines to limit motion forward and aft. Be sure to allow some slack in all lines to compensate for tidal activity if present. Never use bow rail, stern rail, or stanchions to secure a vessel, even for brief periods. For other types of moorings, or for abnormal wind or water conditions, consult an approved boating guide.

ANCHORING

Your Hunter comes with an on deck anchor well and a Danforth type anchor as standard equipment. The anchor is selected to suit the size and weight of your boat under normal anchoring conditions, and is most effective in muddy or sandy bottoms.

When anchoring, pay particular attention to the scope of your anchor rode (the relationship between of the water and the length of the rode). A good rule of thumb is to allow a scope of about 7:1 (a rode seven times as long as the vertical distance from the bow to the bottom). A helpful aid is to mark the rode every 20 feet or so with knots or other types of indicators. Before dropping anchor, make sure the bitter end is secured to the cleat in the anchor well. Also, be sure to consider wind direction, currents,

mean low tide depths and other local conditions when anchoring, as well as positions of any boats already anchored nearby.

To weigh anchor, motor or sail (under main only) forward slowly. When at a point directly above the anchor, a quick tug should free it from the bottom. Take care not to damage the topsides when hauling.

Anchoring in unusual water/ and or

weather conditions will require additional

precautions. Consult an approved guide

for suggestions

PAGE 15

SAFE BOATING TIPS

DIESEL ENGINE

An engine owner's manual is supplied with your boat and should be read thoroughly. It contains technical specifications, running instructions and a maintenance schedule on lubricants and fluids. For long engine life, follow routine maintenance schedules.

You should check engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant levels. Water, rust, scale and dirt will cause serious damage to the injectors on diesel engines. You should check your filters frequently and change when necessary. Check fuel line connections for proper tightness.

EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD – Fuel system connections that are to loose or to tight can leak, resulting in fuel loss, environmental pollution and explosion/fire hazard.

EXTREME HAZARD: carbon monoxide

gas (CO) is colorless, odorless and extremely dangerous. All engines and fuel burning appliances produce CO as exhaust. Direct and prolonged exposure to CO will cause BRAIN DAMAGE or DEATH. Signs of exposure to CO include nausea, dizziness and drowsiness. Refer to BOATING SAFETY for more information.

When you start your engine, run it a minimum of 15 minutes to bring it up to operating temperature. This insures that any condensation is evaporated. Your engine should “run out” at ¾ throttle at least once a month to clean out carbon buildup and moisture.

FUELING YOUR DIESEL ENGINE

EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD

Store flammable material in safetyapproved containers. Keep containers in a locker designed by the boat manufacturer for that purpose. Never store flammable material in a non-vented space.

Observe “No-Smoking” while fueling. Run exhaust blower at least 4 minutes

before starting engine. Check bilge and engine compartments for fumes. Keep ventilation system free of obstructions. Never modify the vent system. Fill less than the rated capacity of the tank. Allow for fuel expansion. If fuel enters bilge, do not start engine. Determine cause and severity. Contact a knowledgeable marine service to remove fuel. Do not pump overboard. Contact Coast Guard for additional advice (See Environmental Considerations Fuel & Oil Spillage.)

 Inspect fuel system regularly for leaks.

Follow engine manufacturer’s recommendations for types of fuel and oil. Use of improper products can damage the engine and void the warranty.

Notice: Use fresh fuel. Fuel that has been in a tank too long can form gum and varnish, which may affect performance.

Inspect diesel fuel filters regularly. Diesel fuel must be kept as clean as possible. Keep fuel tank full.

PAGE

SAFE BOATING TIPS

STARTING YOUR DIESEL ENGINE

1. Visually check engine compartment to see that the throttle linkage, shifting controls, electrical connections and fuel lines are properly secured.

2. Before each start check oil in engine and transmission.

3. Insure that the engine shut-off cable is properly secured and operating.

4. Place the shift lever in the neutral position. Pull out the button beside the shift lever to disengage the shift. On single lever controls, lift the collar under the shift lever knob and move the lever forward to advance the throttle for neutral warm-up.

5. Insert the starter key and turn to the “on” position.

6. Press the starter button and hold until engine starts, then release. The buzzer and/or light should then go off. Press

the starter button no longer than 5 seconds continuously.

7. Allow cold engine to warm up a minimum of five minutes.

8. When warm-up is completed, return the hand lever to neutral position, and push

the button back to re-engage the shift. The shift is ready for shift and throttle operation.

9. Check that the lube oil pressure warning light and the charge lamp go off. If any of the warning lamps do not go off above 1,000 rpm, the engine is malfunctioning and should be stopped immediately. Consult your nearest engine dealer.

NOTE: The H386 and below are equipped with an “engine stop” pull lever. When pulled all the way out, this will stop the engine at any time.

Follow engine manufacturer’s recommendations for types of fuel and oil. Use of improper products can damage the engine and void the warranty.

MOTORING YOUR DIESEL ENGINE

Before departure, remember to unplug the shore power. When the engine is warm, but prior to releasing the dock lines, move the shift lever to forward and to reverse to insure that it is working properly. To increase RPMs, push throttle lever forward and pull back to decrease RPMs. IMPORTANT: When sailing, it is best to start the engine before the sails are lowered. This way, it is possible to maneuver if the engine should not start.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Your Hunter is fitted with an electrical system designed for both AC and DC. While in port, you can operate any tool, appliance or other device designed to function on regular house current simply by plugging your dockside power cord into a convenient outlet on shore and turning your AC main breaker on.

Your rigging will conduct electricity. Always check for overhead high tension wires before proceeding. Once clear, you may increase your speed in a reasonable and safe manner as desired.

ELECTROCUTION HAZARD: If polarity is reversed, DO NOT use the shore power source. Immediately turn off the power source and disconnect the shore power cord. Reversed polarity is a dangerous and potentially lethal condition that may cause shock, electrocution, or death.

PAGE

SAFE BOATING TIPS

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (continued)

To minimize shock hazard, connect and disconnect cable as follows:

1. Turn off the boat’s shore power connection before connecting or disconnecting shore power cable.

2. Connect shore power cable at the boat first.

3. If polarity warning indicator is activated, immediately disconnect cable and have the fault corrected by a qualified electrician.

4. Disconnect shore power cable at shore outlet first.

5. Close inlet cover tightly.

DO NOT ALTER SHORE POWER CABLE CONNECTORS.

Storage: Your shore power cable set is intended for use outdoors. To prolong the life of the set, store indoors when not in use. General: The metallic parts of your cable set are made to resist corrosion. In a salt-water environment, periodically wiping the exposed parts with fresh water, drying and spraying with a moisture repellent can increase life of the product. A soiled cable can be cleaned with a grease cutting household detergent. A periodic application of vinyl protector to both ends will help to maintain cables original appearance. In case of salt water immersion, rinse plug end and/or connector end thoroughly in fresh water, shake or blow out excess water and allow to dry. Spray with moisture repellent before re-use.

Do not allow your dockside power cord to come in contact with the water. Never operate any AC power tool or other electrical equipment while you or the device are in contact with the water, as this may cause electrocution resulting in shock or death.

When leaving port, disconnect the dockside power cord and turn the main DC breaker on. This allows you to use the ship’s lights and other equipment designed to operate on direct current. Keep in mind that your DC power source is a 12-volt battery, just as with your automobile, and it must be charged regularly by operating the engine (or by running the battery charger, if you have that option installed). Unless a state of charge is maintained, there may not be enough power to operate the starter motor. Dangerous situations can result if the engine cannot be started when needed.

Make a regular visual check of batteries to insure proper water level and inspect terminals for signs of corrosion. If your boat sits for long periods without use, it is often a good idea to remove the batteries and attach them to a trickle charger to keep them fully charged and ready to use.

EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD – ensure adequate ventilation of battery to prevent buildup of gases, especially hydrogen.

WHEN CHARGING THE BATTERY:

Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. Protect your eyes, skin and clothing. In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water and get prompt medical attention, especially if your eyes are affected. Batteries generate hydrogen gas that can be highly explosive. Do not smoke or allow flames or sparks near a battery, especially during charging. Charge the battery in a fully ventilated place.

PAGE

SAFE BOATING TIPS

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (continued)

Hunter Marine recommends that on all boats with either/both a house and start battery, the cables be disconnected during winter storage or any time the boat is out of the water for an extended period of time. Because of the continuous electrical drain placed on the 12 volt system by certain electrical components such as stereos and CO monitors you will be preserving your batteries life expectancies.

We recommend that owners who leave their boats in the water during the sailing season charge the boats internal batteries at least once every seven days during the sailing season (we do not recommend leaving power connected to

the boat if it is unattended). Completely depleting a batteries internal charge can drastically shorten its life span. This includes gel cell and glass mat batteries.

For owners who live aboard or wish to leave their boat battery switches in the on position while unattended (again, we do not recommend this) should consider installing a N20504W Nicro Solar vent to reduce the chances of the CO monitor’s sounding. Only exchanging the air inside the boat on a regular basis or leaving the battery switches in the off position totally eliminates the false sounding of the monitors while 12-volt systems are operating.

COOKING STOVE

EXPLOSION/FIRE/ASPHYXIATION

HAZARD Open flame cooking appliances consume oxygen. This can cause asphyxiation or death.

Maintain open ventilation. Liquid fuel may ignite, causing severe

burns.

Use fuel appropriate for type of stove. Turn off stove burner before filling. Do not use stove for comfort heating. Use special care with flames or high

temperatures near urethane foam. Once ignited, it burns rapidly, producing extreme heat, releasing hazardous gasses and consuming a large amount of oxygen.

Carefully read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions prior to operating your stove. Save the instructions for review, and also to pass on to any subsequent owners.

Use only the fuel recommended by the manufacturer, and store the fuel in an approved container.

Do not smoke while working with fuel. Immediately clean up any spilled fuel.

PAGE

SAFE BOATING TIPS

TOILET

IMPORTANT: When not in use, lever must be left in the “dry” position to prevent flooding.

Before using, place the lever in the “wet” position and pump slowly to partly fill and wet the inside of the bowl. Return to the “dry” position.

After using, return the lever to the “wet” position for flushing and pump until the bowl is thoroughly cleaned. Continue with several more full strokes to flush discharge lines. Return lever to “dry” position and pump slowly until bowl is empty.

OPENING HULL PORTS

If your boat is equipped with opening hull ports, they must remain closed and secured while under sail. Your boat could take on water when it heels, causing damage to the interior due to flooding or even possible sinking of your vessel.

 There is a possibility of being fined for having an operable direct overboard discharge of waste in some waters. Removing seacock handle, in closed position, or other means must be used to avoid fine. It is illegal for any vessel to dump plastic trash anywhere in the ocean or navigable waters of the United States.

Do not place facial tissue, paper towels or sanitary napkins in head. Such material can damage the waste disposal system and the environment.

All hull ports must remain closed and secure while sailing.

PUMPS

All pumps should be checked frequently to insure proper operation. This is an especially important regular maintenance item since a properly operating pump could save your vessel from serious damage.

Run pump only as long as necessary to remove water. Dry running can damage the pump motor

Inspect all bilge pump hoses for chafing and dry rot. See that all hose clamps are tight. Check that the bilge pump impeller area is clean and free of obstructions. Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion. Ensure that the float switch functions properly.

SINKING HAZARD – Ensure proper bilge

pump operation.

PAGE

SAFE BOATING TIPS

WATER SYSTEM OPERATION

Fill fresh water tank at deck fill. The tank filler cap will be marked “water”. When tank is full, water will back up through the vent hose and exit through a vent located on the side of the hull. Use tank gauge for filling. D.C. main should be turned on first.

To activate the water system, turn on D.C. main, flip the “water pressure” switch on the electrical panel. This will start the pump and pressurize the system. When the pressure builds, the pump will shut off. With continued use of fresh water the pressure in the system is reduced, automatically restarting the pump. Make sure there is water in the system while pump is in operation to prevent damage to the motor. The pump will also run if a leak develops in the system.

NOTE: Intermittent operation of the freshwater pump while all faucets are closed usually indicates a leak somewhere in the lines. Trace the lines to locate the leak and repair.

Run pump only as long as necessary to remove water. Dry running can damage the pump motor

The water heater operates either on 120 or 240 volts AC or when the engine is running. To obtain hot water from the engine, it must run a minimum of one-half hour. Pressure water pumps are the demand type. Once the circuit breaker switch is on, opening the faucet will produce water flow.

To operate shower, turn on hot and cold faucets until desired temperature is reached, while the showerhead is retracted at sink. Pull the showerhead out and use. The faucets must be turned off to prevent system drainage.

Opening the faucet will allow the pump to empty the tank. Flushing the tank and lines will be necessary for winterization. Refer to Maintenance & Winterization section for more information.

SINKING HAZARD –To ensure the safety of your vessel, always disconnect shore water and power connections when leaving your boat unattended.

The Hunter is equipped with a head waste holding tank, hose lines, and thurfittings for either overboard discharge, using the standard equipped hand pump, deck pump out at dockside or Macerator Pump. Tank levels will be indicated on the gauge located below the main electrical panel. Familiarize

PAGE

WASTE DISCHARGE

yourself with the locations of the deck pump out, overboard discharge thurhull, and vent locations pictured in the Waste Water System section, as well as your local boating regulations concerning the overboard discharge of raw sewage.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS

FUEL AND OIL SPILLAGE

The spilling of fuel or oil into our waterways contaminates the environment and is dangerous to wildlife. Never discharge or dispose of fuel or oil into the water. It is dangerous and unlawful. Two common types of accidental discharge are overfilling the fuel tank and pumping contaminated bilge water into the sea.

DISCHARGE AND DISPOSAL OF WASTE

Waste means all forms of garbage, plastics, recyclables, food wood, detergents, sewage, and even fish parts in certain waters. We recommend that you bring back everything you take out with you for proper disposal ashore.

EXPLOSION/FIRE/POLLUTION

HAZARD:

Fill fuel tank to less than rated capacity.

Overfill forces fuel out the tank vents,

which can cause explosion fire, or

environmental pollution. Also allow for

fuel expansion

Your marine holding tank (if so equipped) must, in many areas, be pumped out by an approved pump-out facility normally found at marinas.

EXHAUST EMISSIONS

Hydrocarbon exhaust emissions pollute our water and air. Keep your engine

ANTI-FOULING PAINTS

The use of anti-fouling paints is common for boats kept in water. Be aware of environmental regulations that may govern your paint choice. These regulations may affect which paint may be used, and also the application or removal. Contact your local boating authorities for more information

CLEANING CHEMICALS

Cleaning chemicals should be used sparingly and not discharged into waterways. Never mix cleaners and be sure to use plenty of ventilation in enclosed areas. Do not use products that contain phosphates, chlorine, solvents, non-biodegradable or petroleum-based products.

properly tuned to reduce emissions and improve performance and economy.

EXPLOSION/FIRE/HAZARD:

Ventilate when painting or cleaning.

Ingredients may be flammable and/or

explosive.

Common households cleaning agents may cause hazardous reactions. Fumes can last for hours, and chemical ingredients can attack people, property and the environment.

PAGE

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARATION FOR

BOTTOM PAINTING

WARNING!

Do not use any sanding, sandblasting or other abrasive reparation of the bottom, as this will

BOTTOM PAINTING

Choose a bottom paint system that suits the environment in your area. Follow the procedure recommended by the manufacturer of the paint, while making sure not to void the Hunter Hull Blistering Warranty. The

EPOXY BARRIER COAT

Sanding of the gel coat bottom surface will be permitted should a customer wish to have an epoxy barrier coat applied to the hull, (example Interlux Interprotect 1000, 2000, West System or VCTar). This will not void the Five-Year Blister Warranty. Hunter Marine refers to epoxy barrier coatings as mentioned above, not epoxy primer paints. If an epoxy barrier coat is applied to a Hunter vessel, it must be registered with the Warranty

void your hull blistering warranty. See the warranty information at the beginning of this manual.

procedure for preparing and painting the bottom varies between paint manufacturers, but should always include dewaxing, etching and sometimes priming of the surface.

Department prior to application of the product. If the dealer applies bottom paint only, sanding will not be allowed and the no sanding system must be used.

Cleaning agents and paint ingredients

may be flammable and/or explosive, or

dangerous to inhale. Be sure to use

adequate ventilation, and appropriate

safety clothing.

(gloves, safety glasses,respiration,etc)

PAGE

ENGINE, TRANSMISSION & DRIVETRAIN

ENGINE

Follow the fuel and lubrication requirements in the Engine Manual. Check the engine oil level before and after operation and use a quality motor oil (refer to Engine Manual). Be certain the proper amount of oils is in the crankcase at all times

Engine Alignment: the engine should be aligned by experienced marine service personnel. Final alignment should be done after launching, with all normal gear aboard. A description of the procedure follows:

The coupling flanges must come together evenly at all points, a feeler gauge is used to check the gap. If adjustment is necessary, the engine is tilted up or down and/or sideto-side until the flanges meet evenly. Severe vibration will result from misalignment and can cause strut bearing and shaft damage. Alignment should be checked again after several weeks of use. Routine checks of coupling bolts are a must to ensure they are tight.

Shaft Alignment:

1. Separate the coupling, move the shaft end back to clear the pilot in the center.

2. Establish the shaft in the center of the shaft log by raising the shaft until it touches the top of the log – note position – lower the shaft until it touches the bottom of the log – note position – repeat sideways and locate shaft in the center; block shaft in this position, using a block of wood under the shaft packing gland.

3. Now, adjust the engine mounts to allow the pilot on the coupling halves to slip together without moving shaft up down or sideways.

4. Adjust the engine mounts as necessary until a .004” feeler gauge will not enter anywhere along the edge of the flange between the faces.

5. Tighten the locks on the adjustable mounts

6. Recheck coupling with feeler, readjust if necessary.

7. Check stuffing box (allow to drip 3 to 5 drops per minute).

Any questions or problems concerning the engine, please contact the U.S. distributor, Mastery Marine at (727) 522-9471, or your local Yanmar service agent.

TRANSMISSION

Follow the lubrication requirements of the engine manual. The oil level should be

STUFFING BOX

The stuffing box is held to the stern bearing by a rubber hose secured with hose clamps. (See the Shaft and Propeller section). The clamps should be tight and no water should leak from this location. While underway a slight drip from the stuffing box at the shaft exit is necessary (three to five drops a minute) and is normal. To adjust, loosen the locknut, tighten the gland nut one-quarter

checked immediately after operation.

turn, a retighten the locknut. If excessive water flow persists after adjustment, replace the packing with 3/16” (or 5mm) square flax packing and then adjust as above.

NOTE: Some models use a packless sealing system. Page 56 or Pages 56A, B, C, reflects the type of stuffing box used on this model.

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MAINTENANCE

COMPASSES

A boat compass rarely exists in an environment that is completely free from magnetic materials or influences.

The compass on your boat should be adjusted by a certified compass adjuster and have a deviation table made for it.

STEERING

Refer to the manufacturer’s instruction for maintaining pedestal steering system. Routinely inspect steering system components.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground installation, plus a shore power system of either 120v or 220v. The owner should inspect batteries, terminals and cables weekly for signs of corrosion, cracks, and electrolyte leakage. Battery terminals are to be kept clean and greased. Refer to separate instructions on batteries, wiring diagram, and electronics.

SHOCK/FIRE HAZARD Replace breaker or fuse with the same amperage device. Never alter over current protection.

If you must depend solely on your compass for navigation, make a quick check for any objects near the compass that may cause additional, unmeasured deviation. Typical objects that may fall in this category include: knives, small radios, flashlights or other tools.

CONTROL HAZARD – Inspect and maintain steering system regularly. An improperly maintained system may fail, causing sudden loss of steering control, resulting in personal injury and property damage.

SHOCK/FIRE HAZARD Disconnect electrical system from its power source before performing maintenance. Never work on the electrical system while it is energized. Electrical appliances must be within the rated amperage of the boats circuits. Observe boat carefully while the electrical components that can be left unattended are the automatic bilge pump, fire protection and alarm circuits. Only a qualified marine electrical technician may service the boat’s electrical system.

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Turn off engine before inspecting or servicing battery. Disconnect battery cables before working on electrical system to prevent arcing or damage to alternator.

MAINTENANCE

PLUMBING SYSTEMS

All pumps should be checked frequently to insure proper operation. This is an especially important regular maintenance item since proper functioning of a pump could save your vessel from serious damage in the future.

Inspect all hoses for chafing and deterioration. See that hose clamps are tight. Check that the pump impeller area is clean and free of obstructions.

Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion. Make sure float switches move freely and are making an electrical connection.

The owner should become familiar with the layout of the water and waste

FUEL SYSTEMS

The owner should inspect the condition of fuel lines for cracks or leaks. A primary source of fuel-related problems is water in the system. The owner should use only well maintained fueling facilities and make sure fuel fill caps are tightly secured after filling. Check and maintain fuel filters periodically. Refer to

systems by walking through the boat with the diagrams provided in this manual. It is especially important that the owner knows all the thru-hull valve locations and inspects for leaks frequently. Refer to plumbing diagrams in Specifications and Technical section of this manual.

General Thru-hull Lists (varies from boat to boat---see diagrams in Systems and Circuits section).

1) Engine cooling system

2) Galley sink

3) Head sink

4) Head toilet (water intake)

5) Holding tank discharge

6) Scupper drains

your Engine Manual for additional information. Periodically, add biocide to prevent bacteria and fungi from contaminating diesel fuel that may contain some water. Carefully follow manufacturer’s instructions and clean filter regularly.

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Hunter Marine sailing yacht Owner's Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual