HUNTER MARINE 27 the EDGE Operator's Manual

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the EDGE

Operator's Manual

HUNTER 27 theEDGE OPERATOR’S MANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Section Topic Page

1) Warranty Registration Form.......................................... 1

2) Hunter Warranty............................................................ 2

3) Certification................................................................... 10

4) Brief History................................................................... 11

5) Glossary of Sailing Terms............................................. 12

6) Explanation of Symbols and Labels.............................. 17

GENERAL HANDLING AND OPERATION

Section Topic Page

7) Safe Boating Tips........................................................... 18

8) Preliminary Care and Maintenance Checklist ................ 21

9) Pre-Departure Checklist................................................. 27

10) Float Plan....................................................................... 28

11) After Sailing Check List.................................................. 29

12) Trailer Launching and Retrieving ................................... 30

13) Docking and Anchoring.................................................. 33

14) Mast Raising and Lowering System............................... 34

15) Getting Ready to Sail / Sail Mode .................................. 36

16) Getting Ready to Power / Power Mode.......................... 39

17) Stove and Toilet............................................................. 42

18) Pumps and Water System ............................................. 43

19) Electrical System............................................................ 44

20) Environmental Considerations ....................................... 45

MAINTENANCE

Section Topic Page

21) Outboard Engine Maintenance...................................... 47

22) Protecting Your Rigging................................................ 48

23) Trailer Maintenance ...................................................... 49

24) General Care................................................................. 51

25) Storage and Winterization............................................. 53

26) Electrolysis and Galvanic Protection............................. 55

HUNTER 27 theEDGE OPERATOR’S MANUAL

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL

Topic Page

Ballast Tank Arrangement Drawing.............................................. 56

Dimensions and Capacities Spreadsheet..................................... 57

Standing Rigging Specs Spreadsheet.......................................... 58

Running Rigging Specs Spreadsheet........................................... 59

Sailplan Drawing .......................................................................... 60

Lightning Warning Drawing.......................................................... 61

Deck Plan and Hardware Drawing ............................................... 62

Deck Hardware and Listing Spreadsheet..................................... 63

Interior Plan Drawing.................................................................... 64

Mast Arrangement Drawing.......................................................... 65

Strut Assembly Drawing............................................................... 66

Standing Rigging Drawing............................................................ 67

Boom Details and Reefing Layout Drawing.................................. 68

Reefing Instructions...................................................................... 69

Mainsheet Purchase Layout Drawing ........................................... 70

Rope Vang Details Drawing......................................................... 71

Standard Jib Sheet Arrangement Drawing................................... 72

Optional Furling Details Drawing.................................................. 73

Mast Raising Details Drawing ...................................................... 74

Rudder Arrangement Drawing...................................................... 75

Centerboard Raising Details Drawing .......................................... 76

Optional Jib Furling Line Layout Drawing..................................... 78

SYSTEMS AND CIRCUITS

Topic Page

Plumbing Layout Drawing ............................................................ 79

Sheer Thru Hull Locations Drawing.............................................. 80

Optional Fresh Water Layout Drawing ......................................... 81

Typical Thru Hull Fittings Drawing................................................ 82

Deck Lighting Layout Drawing...................................................... 83

Mast Wiring Layout Drawing ........................................................ 84

Emergency Tiller Components..................................................... 85

Emergency Tiller Operation.......................................................... 86

Label Reorder List........................................................................ 87

1. WARRANTY REGISTRATION FORM

WELCOME TO THE

HUNTER MARINE FAMILY

Congratulations on ownership of your boat theEDGE, manufactured by Hunter Marine. We have engineered and constructed your boat to the high standards of Hunter Marine, the NMMA, and the ABYC. In order to experience the best performance and most enjoyment from your boat you should be familiar with its various elements and their functions. For your boating pleasure and safety, please take time to study this manual.

Hunter stands behind the quality of your boat with a warranty, which you should review. To ensure the validity of your warranty, please complete the attached card and send it to us within ten (10) days of the purchase date. Section 15 of the U.S. Federal Boat Safety Act requires registration of a boat’s first owner. The warranty data should also be recorded in the space below for your own reference.

In addition, please complete the warranty cards for your engine, stove, head, electric water pump and other accessories. These are enclosed in the manufacturers’ manuals that are packaged with your Operator’s Manual. This manual has been compiled to help you operate your boat properly and safely. It contains details of the boat, equipment supplied or fitted, systems, and information on operation and maintenance. Please read it carefully, and familiarize yourself with the boat before using it. If this is your first sailboat, or you are changing to a type of boat with which you are not familiar, please ensure that you obtain proper handling, safety and operating experience before you assume command of the boat. Your dealer, national sailing federation or yacht club can advise you of local sea schools or competent instructors, such as the ASA (www.ASA.com US coast guard can be contacted for important boating and safety information at http://nws.cgaux.org.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE AND TRANSFER TO THE NEW OWNER IF YOU SELL THE

CRAFT.

) or US Sailing (www.USSailing.org). In addition, the

OWNER INFORMATION CARD

THE HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER IS LOCATED ON THE STARBOARD AFT SIDE

OF THE HULL OR TRANSOM. THIS NUMBER MUST BE PROVIDED IN ALL NECESSARY

CORRESPONDENCE.

HULL NO. DATE DELIVERED TO OWNER YACHT NAME OWNER NAME STREET ADDRESS CITY STATE/COUNTRY ZIP CODE HOME PORT ENGINE MODEL SERIAL NO. PROPELLER SIZE DEALER PHONE STREET ADDRESS CITY STATE/COUNTRY ZIP CODE

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

Hunter offers a limited warranty on every Hunter boat sold through an authorized Hunter dealer. A copy of this warranty is included here, and in your User's Manual. If for some reason you are not able to understand, read, or view this manual, please contact your local dealer for a replacement copy.

We stand behind the quality of your boat with a warranty, which you should review. To ensure the operation and validity of your limited warranty, please complete the attached card and send it to us within ten (10) days of the purchase date. Section 15 of the U.S. Federal Boat Safety Act requires registration of a boat’s first owner. The warranty data should also be recorded in the space below for your own reference.

The following warranties apply to all 2011 Model Year boats produced by

HUNTER MARINE CORPORATION

LIMITED ONE-YEAR WARRANTY

Hunter Marine warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the limited warranty period that any part manufactured by Hunter will be free of defects caused by faulty workmanship or materials for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service. During this period, as the sole and exclusive remedy, Hunter's obligation under the warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of any such defective part.

LIMITED FIVE-YEAR HULL STRUCTURE AND BOTTOM BLISTER WARRANTY

Hunter warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the limited warranty period that the hull of each boat will be free from structural defects in materials and workmanship for a period of five (5) years from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service.

This limited warranty applies only to the structural integrity of the hull and the supporting pan/grid or stringer system. Hulls, pan/grid or stringers modified in any way or powered with engines other than the type and size installed or specified by Hunter are not covered by this limited warranty. As the sole and exclusive remedy, Hunter's obligation under the warranty is limited to repair or replacement of any such defective part.

Hunter also warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the limited warranty period that the boat will be free from gelcoat blistering on underwater surfaces of the hull, excluding the keel and rudder, for a period of five (5) years from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service. During this period, Hunter will supply or reimburse an authorized Hunter dealer for all of the parts and labor required to repair a blistered underwater surface of the hull. The labor cost reimbursement will be based on the Labor Allowance Schedule established by Hunter from time to time; however, if the repair is performed by a non-Hunter dealer, the repair cost must be authorized by Hunter in advance and be based on a reasonable number of hours as determined by Hunter. Hunter will not pay transportation, derigging, or other similar costs. It is recommended that the repair be done during a seasonal haul-out for service or storage.

hauling, launching, bottom paint, storage, dockage, cradling rental, rigging and

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE AND HAND OVER TO THE NEW

OWNER IF YOU SELL THE CRAFT

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

You should also complete the warranty cards for your engine, stove, head, electric water pump and other accessories. These are enclosed in the manufacturers’ manuals that are packaged with your Operator’s Manual.

HUNTER EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS. NEITHER HUNTER NOR THE SELLING DEALER SHALL HAVE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR LOSS OF USE OF A BOAT, LOSS OF TIME, INCONVENIENCE, COMMERCIAL LOSS, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.

VOIDED WARRANTIES

The following circumstances will void the bottom blister limited warranty:

1. If the gel-coat has been sanded, sandblasted, or subjected to abrasion or impact.

2. If the instructions provided in the Hunter Operator’s Manual are not followed according to Hunter’s required bottom

preparation procedures.

RESTRICTIONS APPLICABLE TO WARRANTIES

These limited warranties do not cover:

1. Paint, sealants, adhesives, window glass, Gelcoat, upholstery damage, plastic finishes, engines, engine parts,

bilge pumps, stoves, blowers, pressure water pumps, propellers, shafts, rudders, controls, instruments, keels and equipment not manufactured by HUNTER. Any warranty made and issued by the manufacturer of such items will be, if and where available, provided to the first use purchaser.

2. Problems caused by improper maintenance, storage, cradling, blocking, normal wear and tear, misuse, neglect,

accident, corrosion, electrolysis or improper operation.

3. Boats used for commercial activities including charter.

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

THESE LIMITED WARRANTIES ARE YOUR SOLE AND EXCLUSIVE REMEDIES AND ARE EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY AND ALL OTHER REMEDIES AND WARRANTIES EXPRESSED AND IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WHETHER ARISING BY LAW, CUSTOM, CONDUCT, OR USAGE OF TRADE. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW LONG AN IMPLIED WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. IN THE EVENT THAT IMPLIED WARRANTIES ARE FOUND TO EXIST UNDER THE LAW OF A PARTICULAR STATE, NOTWITHSTANDING THE EXCLUSION CONTAINED HEREIN, THE DURATION OF ANY SUCH IMPLIED WARRANTY SHALL BE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THE APPLICABLE LIMITED WARRANTY STATED HEREIN. THE PURCHASER ACKNOWLEDGES THAT NO OTHER REPRESENTATIONS WERE MADE TO HIM OR HER WITH RESPECT TO THE QUALITY OR FUNCTION OF THE BOAT. ANY ORAL STATEMENT OR PRINTED MATERIAL ADVERTISING THE BOAT WHICH SPEAKS TO ANY PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTIC OF THE BOAT OR ANY OF ITS COMPONENTS SHALL BE CONSIDERED AND CONSTRUED AS AN ESTIMATED DESCRIPTION ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE RELIED UPON AS AN EXPRESS WARRANTY OR AS THE BASIS OF THE BARGAIN FOR THE BOAT OR ANY OF ITS COMPONENTS.

ANY CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES WHICH MAY BE INCURRED ARE EXCLUDED AND PURCHASER’S REMEDY IS LIMITED TO REPAIRS OR REPLACEMENT OF ANY PART(S). SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL OR INDIRECT DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO HAVE OTHER RIGHTS WHICH VARY FROM STATE TO STATE.

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

OWNER INFORMATION CARD

THE HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS IS LOCATED ON THE STARBOARD AFT SIDE OF THE HULL OR TRANSOM. THIS NUMBER MUST BE PROVIDED IN ALL NECESSARY CORRESPONDENCE.

HULL NO._________________________________________________________________

DATE DELIVERED TO OWNER________________________________________________

YACHT NAME______________________________________________________________

OWNER NAME_____________________________________________________________

STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________________

CITY_______________ STATE/COUNTRY______________ ZIP CODE________________

HOME PORT_______________________________________________________________

ENGINE MODEL___________ SERIAL NO.______________ PROPELLER SIZE_________

DEALER PHONE___________________________PHONE__________________________

STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________________

CITY_______________ STATE/COUNTRY______________ ZIP CODE________________

CUSTOMER SERVICE / WARRANTY___________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

WARRANTY REGISTRATION

These limited warranties shall not be effective unless the HUNTER Warranty Registration Form and Pre-Delivery Service Record, which are furnished with each new boat, are filled out completely and returned to HUNTER within ten (10) days of delivery.

Return of the Warranty Registration Form to HUNTER, signed by both Dealer and Owner, is critical. Warranty coverage cannot be initiated until the completed form is received at HUNTER.

All repairs and/or replacements will be made by an authorized Hunter dealer, or at the option of Hunter, at the Hunter plant. If the repairs are of such a nature that the warranty work must be performed at the HUNTER plant, transportation costs to and from the HUNTER plant shall be paid by the owner. The labor cost reimbursement will be based on a Labor Allowance Schedule established by HUNTER and where not applicable, on a reasonable number of hours as determined by HUNTER. Any repairs and replacements must be approved in advance by an authorized HUNTER service representative.

TRANSFER OF LIMITED WARRANTIES

For 1995 and later hull numbers, the limited warranties will be transferred to a subsequent purchaser of the boat if:

1. A notice of the transfer of ownership of the boat is given by the subsequent purchaser in writing to Hunter within

thirty (30) days of the transfer.

2. The notice shall include the name, address and telephone number of the subsequent purchaser, the date of

purchase, the hull number and the name of the seller of the boat.

Hunter will mail to the subsequent purchaser notice of the expiration dates of the limited warranties (see form letter, attached). The transfer of the ownership of the boat will not extend the expiration dates of the limited warranties.

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

SAMPLE FORM LETTER

March 12, 2008

Mr. John Smith 1456 Joy Street Sarasota, FL 34266

Dear Mr. Smith,

Thank you for providing written notice of transfer of own ership. We are pleased you have selected a Hunter sailboat, a nd we will make every effort to assure Hunter ownership will be a satisfying experience for you.

Based on the information you have provided, we are pleased to notify you of the expiration dates of the limited warranties:

• The limited one-year New Boat warranty expires (d)_____________________.

• The limited five-year Hull Structure and Bottom Blister warranty expires (d)_______________________.

Should you require assistance at any time during ownership, we encourage you to contact your Hunter dealer or to call us directly at 386-462-3077.

Please confirm the information at the bottom of the page and ad v ise us if any corrections are required.

_________________________________________

Customer Service Manager

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hull No: HUN____________________________________ Model:___________________________________

Telephone: (H)___________________________________(B)________________________________________

Date of Purchase:___________________________________________________________________________

Purchased From: Name:_________________________________________________________________

Address:____________________________________________________________________________

City/State____________________________________________________Zip____________________

Country____________________________

( ) Private Owner ( ) Dealer

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

GRAPHIC EXPLANATION OF WARRANTY COVERAGE

Internal fiberglass pan and f ibergla ss gr id sys tem a re covered by the five-year limited warranty.

Footnote 1. All wooden bulkhea ds, modular components, floors, floor supports , paneling, trim, coring ma ter ia ls, facepla tes, countert ops, fiberglass tabbing, overlays, se condary bonding , sealants , adhesives, gas kets and epoxies a re cover ed only by the one-year limited warra nty. They are not cove re d by t he five-year limited war ra nty.

Footnote 2. Voids loc ate d within the dec k or hulls ge lcoat surface or build lam ina t e are covered only by the one-year limited warra nt y. They are not c overed by the five-year limited warranty.

Footnote 3. Keel and rudder are not covere d under the bl ist er warranty. T hey are not covered under the one-year or five-year limited warranty’s.

All fiber glas s tabbing, overla ys , adhesives, epoxy and secondary bondi ng are covered only by the one- year limited warr anty. They ar e not cove red by the five-year limited war ranty.

Dec k and deck f loor-pans are covered only by the one-yea r limit ed warra nt y. Floor- pan sizes wi l l va ry by boat t ype and size. T hey a re not cove re d by t he fiveyear limited warranty

Internal fiberglass pan and f iberglass grid sys t em are covered by the five-year limited warranty.

Rudde r , kee l a nd cente rboar ds ( small boats) are excluded from all warrantie s . Kee l and centerboa rd leaks at the attachment point are excluded from all warrantie s .

Hull to deck jo int a dhes ive s, epoxies and sealants are covere d only by the one- yea r limited warranty. They are not covered by the five-year limited warranty.

The fiberglass hul l component is covere d by t he five-year lim ited warranty. Installed items s uch a s ( but not l im ite d to) ports, shafting, thru-hulls, vents and strut s are not covered by the five-year limited wa rranty. The rudder and keel are excluded from all warranties.

2. LIMITED WARRANTY

GRAPHIC EXPLANATION OF WARRANTY COVERAGE

All wooden bulkheads, modu lar compone nt s , floors , floor s upports , panel ing , t rim, coring materials, faceplates, countertops are covered only by the one- yea r limited wa rra nty. They ar e not cove red by t he f ive -year limited warranty.

All fiber glas s tabbing, over lays, sec ondary bonding, sealants, adhe sives, gaskets and epoxies are covered only by the one-year limite d warranty. They are not covered by the five-yea r limited warranty.

Internal fiberglass pan and fibe rglass grid syst em a re covered by the five-year lim ited warranty.

3. CERTIFICATION

CE CERTIFIED

Hunter sailboats are manufactured in the United States and are certified by the IMCI to be in compliance with the relevant parts of the Recreational Craft Directive 94/25/EC from the European Parliament. The CE mark means the boat meets or exceeds the applicable current International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standards and directives as stated on the CE certificate supplied with your craft. The builder’s plate, affixed to the boat, describes various parameters involved in the design of the boat. Please refer to it regularly when operating the boat.

Following are the Design Categories, established by the Recreation Craft Directive, which are to be considered a guideline of use application as per the Recreation Craft Directive’s criteria. Hunter Marine Corporation does NOT establish these criteria, and the category indicated is only a reference to the assigned category. The safety of the captain and crew of any vessel is not measurable by such categories, and you should not interpret these categories as an indication of your safety in such condition. The skill of your captain and crew, proper preparation, appropriate safety equipment for the given conditions and a well maintained vessel are critical to safe sailing.

CE CRAFT DESIGN CATEGORIES

Category A-“Ocean”:

Craft designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force 8 (Beaufort Scale) and include significant wave heights of 4m or more; for vessels that are largely self-sufficient.

Category B- “Offshore”

Craft designed for offshore voyages where conditions include winds up to and including wind force 8 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.

Category C- “Inshore”

Craft designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers, whe re co nditions up to and including wind force 6 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.

Category D- “Sheltered Waves”

Craft designed for voyages on small lakes, rivers and canals, where conditions up to and including wind force 4 and significant wave heights up to and including 0.5m may be experienced.

For additional information, contact: International Marine Certification Institute (IMCI)

Hunter sailboats are judged by the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) to be in compliance with the applicable federal regulations and American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards and recommended practices in effect at the time of manufacture.

For additional information, contact: National Marine Manufacturers Association

Treves Centre, rue de Treves 45 1040 Brussels, Belgium FX: (32) 2238-7700

NMMA CERTIFIED

200 E. Randolph Dr., Suite 5100 Chicago, IL 60611 PH: (1) 312-946-6200 FX: (1) 312-946-0388

4. BRIEF HISTORY

WARREN R. LUHRS

HUNTER MARINE’S OWNER AND FOUNDER

Warren Luhrs was born in East Orange, New Jersey in 1944 into a family with an established tradition in the maritime and transportation Industries. His greatgrandfather, Henry, was a railroad and clipper-shipping pioneer in America, while his great-uncle John helped build the famous St. Petersburg to Moscow railroad for Czar Alexander II.

Henry Luhrs owned shares in twenty-two different oceangoing vessels – barks, brigs, and schooners - and was the principal owner of the bark Sophia R. Luhrs, named for his wife. He was also a partner with Albert Sprout, who managed the shipyard where the Sophia R. Luhrs was built in Melbridge, Maine.

Warren Luhrs’ father, Henry, worked at a small boat manufacturer in Morgan, New Jersey, and later started his own company, continuing the Luhrs’ family sea tradition during the great depression. During World War II he repaired boats and installed ice sheathing on the bows for the Coast Guard.

After the War, Henry built 27-foot fishing boats and in 1948 began to construct custom-built pleasure craft. He then turned to skiffs and in 1952 incorporated as Henry Luhrs Sea Skiffs, where he constructed lapstrake sea skiffs using assembly-line techniques. Henry personally “shook down” his prototypes on family trips up the Hudson River to Lake Champlain.

The sea skiff is a class of boat that has been very popular, owing to its seaworthiness. It features a sharp bow, which reduces pounding in surf or choppy seas, and a hull whose forward section is rounded below the waterline to increase stability in rough water or a following sea. Such skiffs can either be smooth sided or of a lapstrake construction.

Inspired by Henry Ford, Henry Luhrs aimed to give the average man the opportunity to enjoy the luxury of boating by building an affordable and reliable boat. He was both designer and engineer, and his progressive new models exhibited his talent for innovation. He successfully changed the line of the bow from straight to curve at a time when the industry trend was a straight square effect, and he is believed to be the first designer-builder to popularize a small boat with a fly bridge.

In 1960, Luhrs acquired the Ulrichsen Boat Company of Marlboro, New Jersey. It was here that Luhrs’ Alura fiberglass division was located. In 1965, Henry sold his company to Bangor Arrostook Railroad, which was to become the recreational conglomerate Bangor-Punta. It was also during this period that Silverton of Tom’s River, New Jersey was purchased by John and Warren Luhrs.

Today, Warren R. Luhrs and his brother John own the Luhrs Group of marine manufacturers, which consists of Silverton Marine, Mainship Motor Yachts, and Luhrs Fishing Boats with its Alura division, as well as Hunter Marine, which exclusively manufactures sailboats.

In January of 1996, the Luhrs family transferred a portion of the Luhrs Group to its employees through an ESOP program.

5. GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Aback: describes a sail when the

wind strikes it on the lee side.

Abaft: towards the boat’s stern. Abeam: at right angles to the

centerline of the boat.

Aft: at or near the stern. Amidships: the center of the boat,

athwartships and fore and aft. Anti-fouling: a poisonous paint

compound used to protect the underwater part of a hull from marine growths.

Apparent wind: The direction and speed of the wind felt by the crew. It is a combination of true wind and that created by the movement of the boat.

Astern: behind the boat; to go astern is to drive the boat in reverse.

Athwartships: at right angles to the fore and aft line of the boat.

Back: when a wind backs, it shifts

anticlockwise. Back a sail: to sheet it to windward

so that the wind fills on the side that is normally to leeward.

Backstay: a stay that supports the mast from aft and prevents its forward movement.

Ballast: extra weight, usually lead or iron, placed low in the boat or externally on the keel to provide stability.

Ballast keel: a mass of ballast bolted to the keel to increase stability and prevent a keel boat from capsizing.

Batten: a light, flexible strip fed into a batten pocket at the leech of the sail to support the roach.

Beam: 1, the maximum breadth of a boat; 2, a transverse member that supports the deck; 3, on the beam means that an object is at right angles to the centerline.

Bear away: to steer the boat away from the wind.

Bearing: the direction of an object from an observer, measured in

degrees true or magnetic. Beat: to sail a zigzag course towards

the wind, close-hauled on alternate tacks.

Delay: to make fast a rope around a cleat, usually with a figure-of-eight knot.

Bend: 1, to secure a sail to a spar before hoisting; 2, to moor a boat; 3, a sleeping place on board.

Bight: a bend or loop in a rope. Bilge: the lower, round part inside the

hull where the water collects. Block: a pulley in a wooden or plastic

case, consisting of a sheave around which a rope runs. It is used to change the direction of pull.

Boot-topping: a narrow colored stripe painted between the bottom paint and the topside enamel.

Bottlescrew: see Rigging screw. Broach: when a boat running

downwind slews broadside to the wind and heels dangerously. It is caused by heavy following seas or helmsman’s error.

Broad reach: the point of sailing between a beam reach and a run, when the wind blows over a quarter.

Bulkhead: a partition wall in a boat normally fitted athwartships

Caulk: to make the seams between

wooden planks watertight by filling with cotton, oakum or a compound.

Cavitation: the formation of a vacuum around a propeller, causing a loss in efficiency.

Center-board: a board lowered through a slot in the keel to reduce leeway.

Center-line: center of the boat in a fore and aft line.

Center of effort (COE): the point at which all the forces acting on the sails are concentrated.

Center of lateral resistance (CLR):

the underwater center of pressure about which a boat pivots when changing course.

Chain pawl: a short lug which drops into a toothed rack to prevent the anchor chain running back.

Chain plate: a metal plate bolted to the boat to which the shrouds or backstays are attached.

Chart datum: reference level on a chart below which the tide is unlikely to fall. Soundings are given below chart datum. The datum level varies according to country and area.

Chine: the line where the bottom of the hull meets the side at an angle.

Cleat: a wooden, metal or plastic fitting around which rope is secured.

Clevis pin: a locking pin through which a split ring is passed to prevent accidental withdraw.

Clew: the after, lower center of a sail where the foot and leech meet.

Close-hauled: the point of sailing closest to the wind; see also beat.

Close reach: the point of sailing between close-hauled and a beam reach, when the wind blows forward of the beam.

Close-winded: describes a boat able to sail very close to the wind.

Coaming: the raised structure surrounding a hatch, cockpit, etc., which prevents water entering.

Cotter pin: soft, metal pin folded back on itself to form an eye.

Course: the direction in which a vessel is steered, usually given in degrees; true, magnetic or compass.

Cringle: 1, a rope loop, found at either end of a line of reef points; 2, an eye in a sail.

Centerboard: centerboard is retractable. The mechanism of centerboard allows the keel to be raised to operate in shallow waters.

Dead run: running with the wind

blowing exactly aft, in line with the center-line.

Deviation: the difference between the direction indicated by the compass needle and the magnetic

5. GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

meridian; caused by object aboard. Displacement: 1, the weight of water

displaced by a boat is equal to the weight of the boat; 2, a displacement hull is one that displaces its own weight in water and is only supported by buoyancy, as opposed to a planning hull which can exceed its hull, or displacement, speed.

Downhaul: a rope fitted to pull down a sail or spar.

Draft: the vertical distance from the waterline to the lowest point of the keel.

Drag: 1, an anchor drags when it fails to hole; 2, the force of wind on the sails, or water on the hull, which impedes the boat’s progress.

Drift: 1, to float with the current or wind; 2, US the speed of a current (rate UK); 3, UK: the distance a boat is carried by a current in a given time.

Drogue: a sea anchor put over the stern of a boat or life raft to retard drift.

Drop keel: a retractable keel which can be drawn into the hull, when entering shallow waters and recovering on to a trailer.

Eye of the wind: direction from

which the true wind blows.

Fair: well-faired line or surface is

smoother with no bumps, hollows or abrupt changes in directions.

Fairlead: a fitting through which a line is run to alter the lead of the line.

Fathom: the measurement used for depths of water and lengths or rope. 1 fathom = 6 ft. or 1.83m.

Fid: a tapered tool used for splicing heavy rope and for sail-making, often hollow.

Fiddle: a raised border for a cabin table, chart table etc., to prevent objects falling off when the boat heels.

Fix: the position of the vessel as plotted from two or more position

lines. Forestay: the foremost stay, running

from the masthead to the stemhead, to which the headsail is hanked.

Freeboard: vertical distance between the waterline and the top of the deck.

Genoa: a large headsail, in various

sizes, which overlaps the mainsail and is hoisted in light to fresh winds on all points of sailing.

Gimbals: two concentric rings, pivoted at right angles, which keeps objects horizontal despite the boat’s motion, e. g. compass and cooker.

Go about: to turn the boat through the eye of the wind to change tack.

Gooseneck: the fitting attaching the boom to the mast, allowing it to move in all directions.

Goosewing: to boom-out the headsail to windward on a run by using a whisker pole to hold the sail on the opposite side to the mainsail.

Ground tackle: general term used for anchoring gear.

Guard rail: a metal rail fitted around the boat to prevent the crew falling overboard.

Gudgeon: a rudder fitting. It is the eye into which the pintle fits.

Guy: a steadying rope for a spar; a spinnaker guy controls the fore and aft position of the spinnaker pole; the foreguy holds the spinaker pole forward and down.

Gybe: to change from one tack to another by turning the stern through the wind.

Halyard: rope used to hoist and

lower sails. Hank: fitting used to attach the luff of

a sail to a stay. Hatch: an opening in the deck giving

access to the interior.

Hawes pipe: see Navel pipe. Head-topwind: when the bows are

pointing right into the wind.

Headfoil: a streamlined surround to a forestay, with a groove into which a headsail luff slides.

Heads: the toilet. Headway: the forward movement of

a boat through the water. Heave-to: to back the jib and lash the

tiller to leeward; used in heavy weather to encourage the boat to lie quietly and to reduce headway.

Heaving line: a light line suitable for throwing ashore.

Heel: to lean over to one side.

Isobars: lines on a weather map

joining places of equal atmospheric pressure.

Jackstay: a line running fore and aft,

on both sides of the boat, to which safety harnesses are clipped.

Jury: a temporary device to replace lost or damaged gear.

Keel: the main backbone of the boat

to which a ballast keel is bolted or through which the centerboard passes.

Kicking strap: a line used to pull the boom down, to keep it horizontal, particularly on a reach or run.

Lanyard: a short line attached to one

object, such as a knife, with which it is secured to another.

Leech: 1, the after edge of a triangle sail; 2, both side edges of a square sail.

Leehelm: the tendency of a boat to bear away from the wind.

Lee shore: a shore on to which the wind blows.

Leeward: away from the wind; the direction to which the wind blows.

Leeway: the sideways movement of a boat off its course as a result of the wind blowing on one side of the sails.

5. GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Lifeline: a wire or rope rigged around

the deck to prevent the crew falling overboard.

Limber holes: gaps left at the lower end of frames above the keel to allow water to drain to the lowest point of the bilges.

List: a boat’s more or less permanent lean to one side, owing to the improper distribution of weight, e.g., ballast or water.

Log: 1, an instrument for measuring a boat’s speed and distance traveled through the water; 2, to record in a book the details of a voyage, usually distances covered and weather.

Luff: the forward edge of a sail. To luff up is to turn a boat’s head right into the wind.

Luff groove: a groove in a wooden or metal spar into which the luff of a headsail is fed.

Lurch: the sudden roll of a boat.

Marlin spike: a pointed steel or

wooden spike used to open up the strands of rope or wire then splicing.

Mast Step: the socket in which the base of the mast is located.

Measured mile: a distance of one nautical mile measured between buoys or transits/ranges ashore, and marked on the chart.

Member: a part of the skeleton of the hull, such as a stringer laminated into fiberglass hull to strengthen it.

Meridian: an imaginary line encircling the Earth that passes through the poles and cuts at right angles through the Equator. All lines of longitude are meridians.

Mizzen: 1, the shorter, after-mast on a ketch or yawl; 2, the fore and aft sail set on this mast.

Navel pipe: a metal pipe in the

foredeck through which the anchor chain passes to the locker below.

Noon Sight: a vessel’s latitude can be found, using a sextant, when a

heavenly body on the observer’s meridian is at its greatest altitude. The sight of the sun at noon is the one most frequently taken.

Off the wind: with the sheets slacked off, not close-hauled.

On the wind: close-hauled. Out haul: a rope used to pull out the

foot of a sail. Overall length (LOA): the boat’s

extreme length, measured from the foremost past of the bow to the aftermost part of the stern, excluding bowspirt, self-steering gear etc.

Painter: the bow line by which a

dinghy, or tender, is towed or made fast.

Pintle: a rudder fitting with a long pin that fits into the gudgeon to form a hinged pivot for the rudder.

Pitch: 1, the up and down motion of the bows of a boat plunging over the waves; 2, the angle of the propeller blades.

Point of sailing: the different angles from which a boat may sail; the boat’s course relative to the direction of the wind.

Port: the left-hand side of the boat, looking forward (opp. of starboard).

Port tack: a boat is on a port tack when the wind strikes the port side first and the mainsail is out to starboard. A boat on the port tack gives way to a boat on a starboard tack.

Position line/ Line of position: a line drawn on a chart, as a result of taking a bearing, along which the boat’s position must be i.e. Two position lines give a fix.

Pulpit: a metal guard rail fitted at the bows of a boat to provide safety for the crew.

Pushpit: a metal guard rail fitted at the stern.

Quarter: the portion of the boat

midway between the stern and the beam; on the quarter means about 45 degrees abaft the beam.

Rake: the fore and aft deviation from

the perpendicular of a mast or other feature of a boat.

Range: 1, see transit; 2, of tides, the difference between the high and low water levels of a tide; 3, the distance at which a light can be seen.

Rating: a method of measuring certain dimensions of a yacht to enable it to take part in handicap races.

Reach: to sail with the wind approximately on the beam; all sailing points between running and closehauled.

Reef: to reduce the sail area by folding or rolling surplus material on the boom or forestay.

Reefing pennant: strong line with which the luff or leech cringle is pulled down to the boom when reefing.

Rhumb line: a line cutting all meridians at the same angle; the course followed by a boat sailing in a fixed direction.

Riding light to anchor light: an allaround white light, usually hoisted on the forestay, to show that a boat under 50 ft. (15m.)is at anchor. It must be visible for 2 mls. (3 km.).

Rigging screw: a deck fitting with which the tensions of standing rigging, e.g. stays, shrouds, etc. are adjusted.

Roach: the curved part of the leech of a sail that extends beyond the direct line from head to clew.

Run: to run with the wind aft and with the sheets eased well out.

Running rigging: all the moving lines, such as sheets and halyards, used in the setting and trimming of sails.

5. GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Scope: the length of rope or cable

paid out when mor anchoring. Scuppers: 1, holes in the toe rail that

allow water to drain off the deck; 2, drain cockpit through hull.

Seacock: a valve that shuts off an underwater inlet or outlet passing through the hull.

Seize: to bind two ropes together, or a rope to a spar, with a light line.

Serve: to cover and protect a splice or part of a rope with twine bound tightly against the lay.

Serving mallet: tool with a grooved head, used when serving a rope to keep the twine at a constant and high tension.

Set: 1, to hoist a sail; 2, the way in which the sails fit; 3, the direction of tidal current or steam.

Shackle: a metal link with a removable bolt across the end; of various shapes: D, U.

Sheave: a grooved wheel in a block or spar for a rope to run on.

Sheet: the rope attached to the clew of a sail or to the boom, enabling it to be controlled or trimmed.

Shrouds: ropes or wires, usually in pairs, led from the mast to the chain plates at deck level to prevent the mast falling sideways; part of the standing rigging.

Sloop: a single-masted sailing boat with a mainsail and one head sail.

Spar: a general term for any wooden or metal pole, e.g., mast or boom, used to carry or give shape to sails.

Spindrift: spray blown along the surface of the sea.

Spinnaker: a large, light, balloon shaped sail set when reaching or running.

Splice: to join ropes or wire by unlaying the strands and interweaving them.

Split pin: see cotter pin. Spreaders: horizontal struts attached

to the mast, which extends to the

shrouds and help to support the mast. Stall: a sail stalls when the airflow

over it breaks up, causing the boat to lose way.

Stanchion: upright metal post bolted to the deck to support guardrails or lifelines.

Standing part: the part of a line not used when making a knot; the part of a rope that is made fast, or around which the knot is tied.

Standing rigging: the shrouds and stays that are permanently set up and support the mast.

Starboard: right-hand side of a boat looking forward (opp. of port).

Starboard tack: a boat is the starboard tack when the wind strikes the starboard side first and the boom is out to the port.

Stay: wire or rope which supports the mast in a fore and aft direction; part of the standing rigging.

Steerage way: a boat has steerage way when it has sufficient speed to allow it to be steered, or to answer the helm.

Stem: the timer at the bow, from the keel upward, to which the planking is attached.

Sternway: the backward, stern-first movement of a boat.

Stringer: a fore and aft member, fitted to strengthen the frames.

Tack: 1, the lower forward corner of a

sail; 2, to turn the boat through the wind so that it blows on the opposite sides of the sails.

Tacking: working to windward by sailing close-hauled on alternate courses so that the wind is first on one side of the boat, then on the other.

Tack pennant: a length of wire with an eye in each end, used to raise the tack of a headsail some distance off the deck.

Tackle: a purchase system comprising of rope and blocks that is

used to gain mechanical advantage. Tang: a strong metal fitting by which

standing rigging is attached to the mast or other spar.

Tender of dinghy: a small boat used to ferry stores and people to a yacht.

Terminal fitting: fitting at the end of a wire rope by which a shroud or stay can be attached to the mast, a tang or a rigging screw/ turnbuckle.

Tide: the vertical rise and fall of the oceans caused by the gravitational attraction of the moon.

Toe rail: a low strip of metal or molding running around the edge of the deck.

Topping lift: a line runs from the masthead to a spar, normally the boom, which is used to raise it.

Topsides: the part of a boat’s hull that is above the waterline.

Track: 1, the course a boat has made good;

2, a fitting on the mast or boom into which the slides on a sail fit; 3, a fitting along which a traveler runs, used to alter the angle of the sheets.

Transit: two fixed objects are in transit when seen in line; two transit give position fix.

Traveler: 1, a ring or hoop that can be hauled along a spar; 2, a fitting that slides in a track and is used to alter the angle of the sheets.

Trim: 1, to adjust the angle of the sails, by means of sheets, so that they work most efficiently; 2, to adjust the boat’s load, and thus the fore and aft angle at which it floats.

True wind: the direction and speed of the wind felt when stationary, at anchor or on land.

Turnbuckle: see Rigging screw.

Under way: a boat is under way

when it is not made fast to shore, at anchor or aground.

Up-haul: a line used to raise something vertically, e.g., the spinnaker pole.

5. GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS

Veer: 1, the wind veers when it shifts

in clockwise direction; 2, to pay out anchor cable or rope in a gradual, controlled way.

Wake: the disturbed water left astern

of a boat. Waterline: the line along the hull at

which a boat floats. Waterline length (WL): the length of

a boat from stem to stern at the waterline. It governs the maximum speed of displacement hull and effects a boats rating.

Weather helm: ( opp. of lee helm). Weather side: the side of a boat on

which the wind is blowing. Wetted surface: the area of the hull

under water. Whisker pole: a light pole used to

hold out the clew of a headsail when running.

Winch: a mechanical device, consisting usually of a metal drum turned by a handle, around which a line is wound to give the crew more purchasing power when hauling taut a line, e.g. a jib sheet.

Windage: those parts of a boat that increase drag, e.g., rigging, spars, crew, etc.

Windlass: a winch with a horizontal shaft and a vertical handle, used to haul up the anchor chain.

Windward: the direction from which the wind blows; towards the wind (opp. of leeward).

Yawl: a two masted boat with a

mizzen stepped aft of the rudder stock/ post.

6. EXPLANTATION OF SYMBOLS AND LABELS

THIS MANUAL CONTAINS SAFETY PRECAUTIONS THAT MUST BE

OBSERVED WHEN OPERATING OR SERVICING YOUR BOAT. REVIEW

AND UNDERSTAND THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

Denotes an extreme intrinsic hazard exists which will

result in death or serious injury if proper precautions are not

taken

Denotes a potential hazard exists which can result in injury or

death if proper precautions are not taken

Denotes a reminder of safety practices or directs attention to

unsafe practices which could result in personal injury or damage

to the craft or components

7. SAFE BOATING TIPS

*** BE PREPARED ***

Take a safe boating course. In the U.S., contact your local Boating Industry, such as the ASA (www.ASA.com for course information.

Carry all safety equipment required by the laws that apply to your area. Requirements are generally available from the Coast Guard (http://nws.cgaux.org) or your local boating industry.

• Required life saving equipment, including life vests and throwables.

• First Aid kit

• Anchor with sufficient line and/or chain

• Flashlight with good batteries

• Binoculars

• Appropriate navigational charts

• Flares

• Noise emitting device

) or US Sailing (www.USSailing.org),

MINIMUM RECOMMENDED SAFETY EQUIPMENT

SAFETY HAZARD

Obtaining and maintaining the necessary safety equipment is the responsibility of the owner. For more information about equipment required, contact local boating authorities

• Sufficient food and water provisions

• Sunglasses and block

• Blanket

• Oar(s)

The legally required on-board safety equipment may vary by region or body of water. Please check with local authorities prior to departure for a safety examination

LIFE JACKETS

WEARING a life jacket may save your life. Keep jackets

in a readily accessible place – not in a closed compartment or stored under other gear. Remove them from any packaging and keep throwable floatation devices ready for immediate use.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

Approved fire extinguishers are required on most boats, local authorities can provide details. All passengers should know the location and operating procedure of each fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishers are normally classified according to fire type. Be familiar with the type of fire extinguishers required on board.

DROWING HAZARD

Children under 12, those physically restricted, and non-swimmers must wear lifejackets at all times. Make sure all passengers are properly instructed in use of life saving gear.

FIRE HAZARD

Understand and provide the type and quantity of fire extinguishers required on your boat. Refer to your boating handbook for extinguisher specifications and quantities required for your boat.

7. SAFE BOATING TIPS

FLARES

Most boats operating on coastal waters are required to carry approved visual distress signals, therefore check with your local authorities as to which types are required.

ALCOHOL / DRUGS AND BOATING

Drugs and alcohol affect a person’s ability to make sound judgments and react quickly. As a responsible boater, you should refrain from using drugs or alcohol (singly or combined) while operating your boat. Operation of motorized vessels while under the influence carries a significant penalty. Drugs and alcohol decrease your reaction time, impair your judgment and inhibit your ability to safely operate your boat.

FIRE/EXPLOSION HAZARD Pyrotechnic signaling devices can cause injury and property damage if not handled properly. Follow manufacturer’s directions regarding the proper use of signaling devices

Impaired vision or judgment on the water can lead to accidents and personal injury. Operating any boat while intoxicated or under the influence of drugs is both dangerous and illegal.

IMPAIRED OPERATION HAZARD

BEFORE GETTING UNDERWAY

• Leave a float plan (see example Section 10).

• Perform a pre-departure checklist (see example

Section 9).

WHILE UNDERWAY

• Keep a good lookout. Keep a watch to the leeward under the headsail. Keep away from swimmers, divers and skiers.

• Know and obey local boating laws.

• Respect bad weather, and be prepared for

quickly changing conditions.

• Check the weather. Do not venture out if the weather is, or will be, threatening.

COLLISION HAZARD Use extra caution in shallow water or where underwater/floating objects may be present. Hitting an object at speed or severe angle can cause serious injure and/or damage your boat.

7. SAFE BOATING TIPS

BALLAST TANK

The EDGE is equipped with an internal water ballast tank that provides stability and self-righting. The ballast tank must be completely full when under sail and power. If the tank is not completely full, the boats stability will be reduced and its ability to selfright may be significantly impaired, plus you may experience decreased steering capability. Periodically inspect ballast tank valves to guard against undesired or unexpected water loss. Under no condition should the water ballast tank be filled by reversing the outboard engine. Forced entry of water into the ballast tank may cause permanent damage to the tank.

CREW SIZE, WEIGHT & LOCATION

The EDGE is weight specified at a maximum crew size of 6 persons which must not exceed more than 1,438 pounds (652kg) including persons, gear and propulsion. Crew placement is important when shifting between sail and power modes. The position of the center board, rudder, mast, sail and engine can contribute to various changes in the vessels handling when the boat is moving. In the power mode, always ensure the crew is seated within the cockpit and evenly distributed port and starboard. In general, weight should be positioned low and aft, therefore, ensure heavy items are not stored in the v-berth and crew is not positioned on the cabin top or foredeck. In sail mode, crew position will fluctuate based on the crew member’s role, wind conditions, tacking, etc.

CAPSIZE HAZARD THE WATER LEVEL OF THE BALLAST TANK IS CRITICAL. ENSURE THE BALLAST TANK IS COMPLETELY FULL BEFORE RAISING SAILS, MOTORING ABOVE 6 MPH OR EXCEEDING WAKE SPEED. ANY LEVEL OF THE TANK OTHER THAN COMPLETELY FULL WILL PRODUCE INSTABILITY AND MAY LEAD TO CAPSIZING.

CAPSIZE HAZARD FAILURE TO ADHERE TO THE FOLLOWING GUIDELINES MY LEAD TO A CAPSIZED VESSEL RESULTING IN POSSIBLE PROPERTY DAMAGE, MAN OVERBOARD SITUATION OR POSSIBLE DEATH.

Maximum crew size of 6 persons or 1,438 lbs (652 kg) includes persons, gear and propulsion.

In power mode travel, ensure:

1. Crew is off the cabin top and foredeck unless docking at idle speed

2. Engine should be off and boat resting before moving forward to deploy anchor

3. Crew is seated in cockpit and distributed evenly port and starboard

4. Ballast tank should be completely full

8. PRELIMINARY CARE AND MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

Dear Hunter Owner,

Attached you will find a list of items and recommendations that we believe should be incorporated into your own ongoing list of preventative maintenance items and safety check points. THIS LIST SHOULD NOT BE

CONSIDERED A COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL OR THE ONLY ITEMS ON YOUR BOAT IN NEED OF ROUTINE MAINTENANCE, INSPECTION OR ATTENTION.

You will find that we address commonly found optional equipment items installed on Hunter boats, as well as most standard equipment from Hunter Marine. Owners need to familiarize themselves with individual equipment manuals on all such items, especially aftermarket purchases or optional equipment installed by your dealer or Hunter Marine. This should ensure that you are following the manufacturer’s recommendations for proper maintenance and upkeep.

We strongly recommend that all owners complete a Power Squadron course followed with a complementary boat inspection before leaving the dock. To locate a Power Squadron in your area ple ase visit < www.usps.org >.

Reviewing and familiarizing yourself with the Chapman’s Piloting Manual is also highly recommended for every boat owner. This manual contains demonstrations for safety drills which should be practiced routinely, dealing with adverse conditions, general boat handling and recommended safety equipment. Our opinion is that no boat owner should operate a boat without first reviewing this manual and without having ready access to it while sailing.

We hope that this list will be beneficial to you in your ongoing maintenance and upkeep. Safe boating!

Thank You Hunter Marine

8. PRELIMINARY CARE AND MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

OUT OF WATER INSPECTION CHECKLIST

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN SHOULD BE USED IF YOU ARE NOT COMPLETELY CONFIDENT IN YOUR ABILITY TO MAKE REPAIRS OR INSPECTIONS.

 Transducer(s) are in place and secured

properly; throttle/ transmission control handle rotates smoothly

 Hose clamps on all systems below water

line are tight

 Centerboard(Keel) bolts tight and clean  Centerboard(Keel) raising line working

properly

TRAVEL HAZARD Check the ballast tank water intake guillotine valve for proper function prior to any launch procedure. Ensure the ballast tank guillotine valve and vent valve are closed. Failure to do so may cause unexpected results under power or sail.

General

 Ballast tank guillotine valve is properly

functioning

 All thru-hulls and valves inspected for

corrosion, labels and closed until after launch

 Bottom paint in satisfactory condition  Hull freshly cleaned and waxed (free of

gelcoat damage)

 Boat is free of internal and external water

leaks above water line (Failure to stop water intrusion could result in permanent damage or deterioration of structural coring materials, internal wiring and cause mildew and molding)

Mast Assembly

 Maintain mast assembly according to

manufacturer’s recommendations

 Spreaders securely fastened; mast and

spreaders free of corrosion and stress cracks

 Standing rigging and pins inspected for

wear, tear, corrosion and cracking

 External wiring secured for navigation lights

(anchor/steaming lights, bow light and stern light)

 Optional electronic wind indicator installed

per manufacturer’s recommendation

 Mooring, safety lines and fenders onboard

and in good condition

 Inspect start battery and optional 2

for proper installation, fully charged and functioning

 All battery terminals clean and wires

secured

 Inspect outboard engine according to

manufacturer’s recommendations

battery

 Optional wind indicator installed and

functioning properly

 Optional VHF antenna installed and working

properly

 Optional headsail furling system installed

and inspected per manufacturer’s recommendations

 Running rigging inspected for wear and tear

8. PRELIMINARY CARE AND MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

 Mast step stand-up blocks secured and

operational

 Main sail, jib sail and flaking system

inspected for wear and tear

 Check condition and operation of sails

 Electric bilge pump, float switch (discharge

hose has anti-siphon loop in place to prevent back flow under sail) operating properly

 Optional fresh water pumps functioning

properly

 Specified pre-bend and diagonal tensions

attained in mast according to the mast manufacturer’s commendations

 Mast to deck wiring is properly attached

Anchor System and Ground Tackle

 Optional anchor secured in bow roller

assembly

 Optional spare anchor onboard and

accessible; see Chapman’s Manual for recommendations on anchors, anchor lines and drogues

 Anchor line pays out and retrieves into

anchor locker without difficulty

 Anchor assembly inspected and free of

abrasions

 Anchor locker hatch secures properly with

anchor and line in place

 Anchor locker free of debris inside  Anchor locker drain-plate is free of debris

 Optional toilet flush pumps functioning

properly

Illumination and Small Electrical Components Check

 Bow light, cabin lights, stern light, masthead

light, chart light illuminating

 Anchor light illuminating  Smoke detectors operational  CO detector operational  High water bilge alarm functioning properly  Optional shore power cord and adapter plug

operational

 Optional 110 or 220 VAC outlets operational

– Ground fault circuits functioning

 Optional 110 or 220 VAC/battery charging

systems functioning properly

 Compass and compass light functioning

properly

Steering System

 Rudder turns easily and correctly with wheel

direction

 Rudder raising system working and

functioning properly

 Inspect rudder for cracks and/or concealed

damage

 Bolts and brackets secured and steering

cable functioning properly

Primary Pumps

 Optional bilge pump and manual bilge pump

functioning properly

Fresh Water Systems

 Portable water tank and galley faucet water

pump functioning properly

 Optional water tank and shut-off valve

functioning

 All water lines and components purged of

air and checked for leaks

 Sinks and drains checked for leaks and

adequate flow

 Optional cockpit shower operational  Optional fresh water system strainer clean

8. PRELIMINARY CARE AND MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

Head and Holding Tank Systems

 Portable sanitation head holding tank clean  Optional marine head vent clear from tank

to atmosphere

 Optional marine head toilet flushes to

holding tanks properly

 Optional marine head holding tank waste

level checked

 Port/starboard chainplate assemblies are

secured and tightened

 Plexiglass hatches, ports, windscreens and

windows adjusted and cleaned

 All thru deck fittings sealed properly; flipping

cap on thru deck fitting functioning properly

 Topside surface clean and free of damage

 Optional marine head fittings and hoses

checked for leaks or signs of cracks

Galley Systems

 Optional butane stove operational; refer to

manufacturer’s manual for proper operation and trouble shooting

 Optional electric cooler operational and

proper temperature attained

 Galley sink drain plate free of debris  Hose clamps tight and secured; no signs of

cracks on sink drain hose

 Galley sink drain ball valve/handle

functioning properly

Deck

 Swim seats/ladders/grab plate operational  Companionway hatches operate properly

(recheck this after the boat is in water)

 Companionway drop-ins fit properly in

companionway and line locker

 Optional canvas properly cleaned and

installed

Interior Inspection

 Drop-in hatches for bunks and floors in

place and fit securely

 Interior steps and grab rails secured  Ballast tank access cover secured; no signs

of cracks on ballast tank

 Bilges clean and free of debris (is this

possible??)

 Opening port and hatch screens in place  Optional blinds/privacy curtains, shades and

interior cushions cleaned and secured

 Head door open/shut/latch properly  Ensure all wires and connection on

distribution panels are tight (should be professionally inspected)

 Optional stereo/CD operational  Owner supplied Chapman’s Manual

onboard and readily available

 Safety gear onboard, readily available and

up to date. See Chapman’s Manual and US Coast Guard website at < www.uscg.mil >for details

 Operator’s Manual onboard

 Optional cockpit cushions cleaned and

installed

 Lifeline shackles tight and secure  Rubrail sealed and secured to hull  Load bearing hardware sealed and securely

fastened; this includes but is not limited to chainplates, winches and handrail

 User’s Manual onboard

Outboard Engine and Fuel System

 Review manufacturer’s outboard engine

manual for operating procedure and maintenance

8. PRELIMINARY CARE AND MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

 Outboard engine mounting bolts in

place, tightened, secured and properly torqued

 Throttle cable tension set properly  Shifter with trim switch functioning properly

 Crankcase oil at full mark (per engine

manual)

 Transmission fluid/oil at full mark (per

engine manual)

 Seawater intake free of debris  Air bled from fuel lines and no sign of fuel

leaks at fittings

 Throttle and outboard engine steering

linkages smooth and operational

Date of inspection: Inspection made by:

 Shutdown system operational  Fuel tank clean, no cracks or damage, shut

off valve closed properly

 Fuel lines clean and free of cracks or

damage, hose clamps tightened and secured

 Starting sequence and alarms correct

according to engine manufacturer’s recommendations

8. PRELIMINARY CARE AND MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

IN WATER INSPECTION CHECKLIST

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

SECTION OF THIS

Dockside Inspection of Outboard Engine and Operating System

 Review manufacturer’s engine manual for

proper engine starting procedure

 Correct idle rpm (per engine manual)  Hour meter operational  Neutral safety start switch operational

Dockside Pre-sail Inspection

 Standing rigging tuned statically – all fittings

pinned and secured (re-check after sailing)

 Jib sail installed, optional furling system

operational

 Main sail installed and operates smoothly  Main sail flaking system properly adjusted  All reefing points in good condition and

working properly

 Topping lift and outhaul operational  Sheets/blocks/winches operate correctly

and easily under load

 All line stoppers operational and labeled  All electronic equipment calibrated  Owner Supplied VHF operational  Complete safety package onboard and up-

to date (see Chapman’s manual and US Coast Guard rules and regulations)

 Secure and evenly distribute all loose

equipment and weight

 No fuel/oil/water leaks on engine  Engine seawater flowing properly

Date of inspection: Inspection made by:

 Complementary onboard inspection made

by local Power Squadron

9. PRE-DEPARTURE CHECKLIST

theEDGE is designed to operate under sail mode or power mode. You must clearly understand the basic factors directly affecting your chosen mode of travel before departing.

Your boat can not operate at speeds over 6 mph under both auxiliary power and under sail. This will cause significant stability issues and is extremely dangerous.

Depending on your mode of travel, verify the following conditions and their status: rigging, ballast tank, center board, rudder and outboard engine.

1. Rigging - when operating your boat under power,

the rigging may be installed, setup and secured, but the sails must be down (main and jib sails). Also, it is not recommended to leave the mast on the crutches when powering the boat.

2. Ballast tank – when operating your boat under

sail and power, the ballast tank must be completely full. If the tank is not completely full, the boats stability will be reduced and its ability to self-right may be significantly impaired, plus you may experience decreased steering capability. Periodically inspect ballast tank valves to guard against undesired or unexpected water loss.

Under no condition should the water ballast tank be filled by reversing the outboard engine. Forced entry of water into the ballast tank may cause permanent damage to the tank. The guillotine valve and vent valve must always be closed when not filling or emptying the tank.

3. Centerboard – when operating your boat under power, the centerboard is in the raised position. The lower portion of the centerboard remains exposed and acts as a fin (stabilizer) enhancing directional stability as speed increases. Under sail, lower the centerboard to adjust the center of gravity to provide greater stability.

4. Rudder - when operating your boat under power, the rudder is in the raised position. With the rudder fully raised and locked in position, the tip portion of the rudder becomes a fin which provides directional stability of water flow to the outboard engine. When under sail, lower the rudder to allow for proper steering.

5. Outboard engine – when operating your boat under power, the outboard engine must be in the down position. When under sail, tilt the outboard engine to the full up position.

 Check weather conditions and tides  Check food supply  Foul weather gear  Linen, sleeping bags  Fuel  Check bilge for extra water  Water  Sunscreens and sunglasses  Tools  Docking and anchoring gear  Check radio operations  Navigation charts and instruments  Float plan to a friend or Coast Guard (see

next page)

 Fuel for stove

 Cooking and eating utensils  Check that the battery is fully operational  Oil level, tight Vp-belts  Check for loose electrical connections in

engine compartment

 Doors and drawers secured  Check steering lock to lock  Check mast for rigging irregularities and

tightness

 Halyards and sheets are clear and ready to

run

 No lines or other obstructions near propeller

or bow

 Anchor ready to run  Check lifelines for tightness  Turn on fuel and waterlines  Stow all loose gear

10. FLOAT PLAN

1. Name and telephone number of the reporting person:

2. Description of boat

NAME TYPE MAKE LENGTH REGISTRATION# HULL COLOR STRIPE COLOR DECK COLOR OTHER DISTINGUISHING MARKS

3. Number of Persons aboard NAME AGE PHONE #

ADDRESS NAME AGE PHONE # ADDRESS NAME AGE PHONE # ADDRESS

4. Engine TYPE H.P. FUEL CAPACITY

5. Safety equipment

PFDs Flares Mirror Flashlight Food Water EPIRB Raft/Dinghy

6. Radio

TYPE FREQUENCIES

7. Trip Expectations

DEPARTURE TIME DATE FROM DESTINATION RETURN DATE NO LATER THAN

8. Automobile: LICENSE # STATE MAKE

COLOR PARKED AT

9. If not returned by-

Contact the Coast Guard or CALL - AT-

11. AFTER SAILING CHECKLIST

When leaving your Hunter boat at the dock for more than a short time, it is a good idea to review the following checklist to make sure everything is in order. This will help protect the boat’s components and add to their attractiveness and usable life.

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

 Maintain a full ballast tank to provide

stability

 Flake mainsail and cover or remove and

bag

 Remove and stow all portable deck

hardware such as winch handles, etc.

 Secure the topping lift to the boom and

secure it firmly with the mainsheet

 Coil and stow all lines

 Close all fuel lines (refer to your

manufacturer’s outboard engine manual for details)

 Switch off the electrical system; if the boat

has the optional battery charger, switch off the main battery switch

 Pump out the bilge and make sure the

optional high water bilge float switch is free of debris

 Check air vents, secure ports and hatches,

and clean deck stainless, especially if you have operated in saltwater

 Make a final check of mooring lines,

fenders, etc.

12. TRAILER LAUNCHING AND RETRIEVING

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

TOWING HAZARD Trailer towing can be hazardous. Overloading can cause serious injury or equipment damage. Do not overload your trailer.

TOWING HAZARD Check the certification decal located near the hitch of your trailer. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) for your trailer is 5,000 lbs. Total boat weight with all possible Hunter options installed is 4,920 lbs. (including full fuel and ½ water supply). It is your responsibility to ensure any gear or supplies loaded in the boat while under tow does not exceed the total load limit of 5,000 lbs.

TOWING HAZARD Ensure the tow vehicle has a towing capacity higher than that of the trailer’s GVWR. Using an under-rated tow vehicle is dangerous and illegal.

TOWING HAZARD Tow your boat with the ballast tank empty. If the ballast tank is not empty you will exceed the GVWR limit of the trailer and can cause equipment damage and serious injury.

THE MAST MAY BE RAISED WHILE THE BOAT IS ON THE TRAILER OR AFTER THE BOAT IS LAUNCHED. MAKE SURE THAT ALL HALYARDS AND REEFING LINES ARE INSTALLED USING THE MESSENGER LINES ALREADY RUN IN THE MAST. MAKE SURE THE CENTERBOARD AND THE RUDDER ARE SECURED AT ALL TIMES.

BE SURE TO THOROUGHLY FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE TOWING REGULATIONS OF YOUR STATE AND IN ANY OTHERS YOU MAY TRAVEL THROUGH. REGULATIONS VARY FROM STATE TO STATE REGARDING THE TOWING OF BOAT TRAILERS, GOVERNING BOTH THE WIDTH OF THE LOAD AND THE LENGTH OF MAST OVERHANG AT THE REAR OF THE TRAILER. SPECIAL PERMITS MAY BE REQUIRED AND OTHER REGULATIONS MAY APPLY. CONSULT YOUR LOCAL AUTHORITIES FOR MORE INFORMATION.

PRE-LAUNCH PROCEDURES

1. Ensure the centerboard and rudder are up and

secured.

2. Check for damage to the boat caused by towing

3. The engine should be raised so it will not hit

bottom during launching.

4. Ensure thru hull ball valves are closed. Ensure the

galley sink drain valve and ballast tank guillotine valves are closed. The rudder drum overflow drain ball valves should remain open.

5. Remove trailer tie-down straps and ropes and

make sure that the winch snap hook is properly attached to the bow eye and locked in position.

6. Connect the fuel tank, check fluid levels and

safety equipment.

7. Disconnect the trailer light plug to prevent shorting

the electrical system or burning out a bulb.

8. Loose gear and provisions can be loaded via the

swim ladder on the transom.

9. If launching at a dock, attach a line to the bow and

the stern of the boat so it will not drift away after launching.

10. Visually inspect the launch ramp for hazards such

as a steep drop off, slippery areas and sharp objects.

11. When ready, proceed slowly to the ramp.

12. TRAILER LAUNCHING AND RETRIEVING

LAUNCHING

1. Drive to the ramp area and back the boat and

trailer down the appropriate ramp.

2. Keep the rear wheels of the towing vehicle out of

the water. This will generally keep the exhaust pipes out of the water. If the exhaust pipes become immersed in the water, the engine may stall.

3. Set the parking brake and place the transmission

in a parking gear ensuring the vehicle will not move.

4. After the boat is in water, turn the winch to payout

the towing strap but do not allow the boat to drift away from the trailer.

5. Lower the outboard engine and prepare to start

the engine. Make sure the transmission is not engaged at this time. Make sure the lanyard is properly attached to operator.

6. Start the outboard engine and ensure that water is

passing through the engine’s cooling system. Check with the engine’s owners manual for proper operation.

7. Release the winch and disconnect the winch strap

snap hook from the bow when the boat’s operator is ready. At this point, the boat should launch with a light shove or by backing off from trailer under power.

8. Return the towing vehicle and the trailer to the

parking area.

9. Finish any final loading of your boat at the dock.

12. TRAILER LAUNCHING AND RETRIEVING

RETREIVING

The steps for retrieving the boat from the water are basically the reverse of those taken to launch it.

1. Consider the following conditions which may have

changed since you launched your boat:

• wind direction and/or speed

• current and/or tide

• visibility

2. Ensure the rudder and centerboard are raised and

secured.

3. Unload the boat away from the launch ramp.

CAREFULLY maneuver the boat under power to the retrieving site.

4. Back the trailer down the appropriate ramp. Keep

the rear wheels of the towing vehicle out of the water. This will generally keep the exhaust pipes out of the water. If the exhaust pipes become immersed in the water, the engine may stall. Set the parking brake and put the transmission in a parking gear and ensuring the vehicle will not move.

5. Payout the towing strap so the snap hook can be

attached to the bow eye. To avoid hitting the bottom, the outboard engine might need to be partially raised when motoring onto the trailer. When properly aligned on trailer, raise the outboard engine to full up position. Winch the boat securely onto the trailer. Confirm the boat’s position on the trailer and secure it.

6. If the ballast tank was not emptied under power,

open the ballast tank guillotine valve located on the transom and the vent valve located in the port aft hanging locker. Slowly drive the trailer forward and stop to allow time for the ballast tank water to fully discharge.

7. De-rig and unstep the mast if not already

completed. BEWARE OF NEARBY POWER LINES WHEN LOWERING MAST. Secure mast.

8. Attach rear straps from to trailer and stern of the

boat. Confirm that all gear and supplies are secured before driving.

9. When the ballast tank is fully drained, carefully

drive the trailer with the boat aboard out of the

ramp to the washdown area for cleanup and reloading.

13. DOCKING AND ANCHORING

DOCKING

Docking the boat should be handled carefully to avoid damage. Under normal wind and water conditions, the following considerations should be made:

1. Maintain a full ballast tank to provide greater

stability.

2. Whenever possible, approach the dock against

the prevailing wind and current to assist in stopping the boat. Where these conditions are contrary, the stronger of the two should be used to determine approach.

3. When approaching the dock, dock lines should be

at the ready, loose gear stowed and decks cleared. Determine the direction of the wind and current and when you decide which side of the boat will be against the dock, rig dock lines and fenders on the appropriate side.

4. To tie up, attach bow and stern lines to dock with

the fenders between the dock and boat. Rig crossing spring lines to limit motion forward and aft. Be sure to allow some slack in all lines to compensate for tidal activity if present. Never use bow rail, stern rail, or stanchions to secure a vessel, even for brief periods. Consult an

approved boating guide if you are new to docking or mooring

ANCHORING

SAFETY HAZARD Anchoring in unusual water and/or weather conditions will require additional precautions.

Consult an approved guide for suggestions

Your Hunter comes with an on-deck anchor well and optional anchor. The optional anchor is selected to suit the size and weight of your boat under normal anchoring conditions, and provides its best holding characteristic in muddy or sandy bottoms. When anchoring, the following should be considered:

1. Pay particular attention to the slope of your

anchor rode (i.e., the relationship between the depth of the water and the length of the rode). A good rule of thumb is to allow a scope of about 7:1 (a rode seven times as long as the vertical distance from the bow to the bottom). A helpful aid is to mark the rode every 20 feet or so with knots or other types of indicators. Before dropping anchor, make sure the bitter end is secured to the cleat in the anchor well.

2. Consider wind direction, currents, mean low tide

depths, local conditions and the position of any anchored boats nearby when anchoring.

3. To raise anchor, motor or sail (under main only)

forward slowly. When at the point directly above the anchor, a tug should free it from the bottom.

Consult an approved boating guide for additional information.

14. MAST RAISING AND LOWERING SYSTEM

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

ELECTROCUTION HAZARD

Make sure that the mast and riggings are clear of all overhead electrical cables when being raised, lowered or maneuvered about the launch area. Contact with an electrical cable can result in property damage, serious injury or death.

MAST RAISING

BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST

1. IF RASING THE MAST IN THE WATER,

ENSURE THE BALLAST TANK IS FULL.

2. Install lower struts. The lower struts should be

secured on the mast and to the base bracket on the deck, but do not tighten down the bolts at this time. Make sure the bolts will remain attached during the entire procedure. The lower strut fasteners will be tightened down after the mast is fully raised.

3. Attach the lower shroud to the turn buckles on

chainplate in front of the carriage hole. Install cap shroud turnbuckles on all carriage holes of the chainplate. Make sure turnbuckles are pinned and secured.

4. Confirm that all standing rigging and spreaders

are connected and secured to the mast. The spreader mounting bracket bolts should be secured and tightened. Make sure there are no signs of cracks on the mast, shrouds and masthead light wiring harness. Ensure that masthead light is functioning.

5. Confirm that backing shells on top of D2, marine

eye terminal on top of forestay and spreader end plugs are secured on the mast.

6. Main halyard, jib halyard, topping lift and shackles

should be installed and secured on cleats; do not

allow all halyards hanging loose during the mast raising.

STEPPING THE MAST

1. Untie the mast from the mast crutches and slide

the mast aft on the crutch roller until the bottom of the mast is over the mast step. At this point, the mast will be balanced on the roller only, so do not let it go of the mast base. Remove the safety pin and align the mast base, vang toggle and bottom block. Insert the safety pin and install cotter pin on safety pin. The mast should now be secured to the mast step.

INSERTING THE GIN POLE

1. Attach jib halyard to the aft thimble on the top of

the gin pole. Attach main sheet fiddle block to the bottom thimble of the gin pole. Make sure both attachments to the thimble are secured.

2. Install the gin pole vertically in the hole in the front

base of the mast. Attach the lower mainsheet fiddle block (the one with cam cleat) on the U bolt in the anchor-well. Make sure the entire mast raising system is secured and safe for operating.

3. Check to make sure the forestay is not twisted

around the jib halyard and the lower shrouds and cap shrouds are not twisted around each other. All shrouds should be outside the life lines, the turnbuckles should be vertical on the chainplate. Recheck that all shrouds, forestays and shackles are properly attached. Make sure the mast is clear of all overhead electrical wiring.

RAISING THE MAST

1. Tension the halyard with the gin pole in a vertical

position (make sure that the jib halyard is being tensioned and not the main halyard). Secure the jib halyard to the cleat on the mast. The mast struts prevent the mast from moving side to side.

2. Raise the mast by pulling in the main sheet

through the cam cleat.

3. As soon as the mast is raised, leave the

mainsheet jammed and tensioned. Connect the forestay turnbuckle to stem plate; meanwhile, install clevis pin and cotter pin to secure the connection.

14. MAST RAISING AND LOWERING SYSTEM

4. Tension cap shrouds, lower shrouds and forestay

by turning the turnbuckle. Use a tension gauge to check loading tensions on standing rigging. When done, all turnbuckles should have cotter pins installed to keep them from reopening.

5. Check the rig tension.

6. After the mast is secured by all standing riggings,

remove gin pole and mainsheet system from the mast raising system.

7. Connect the mast wiring plug to the deck fitting at

starboard base of the mast.

BOOM INSTALLATION

5. Attach jib halyard shackle to upper spliced eye at

forward end of gin pole.

6. Tension jib halyard (again confirming that it is the

jib halyard being tensioned and not the main halyard—check the color coding) so that the pole angles up at the front end approximately 10 degrees. Secure halyard to cleat on side of deck and lock down the line on cleat.

7. Attach bottom end of mainsheet to “U” bolt in

anchor locker and top end to the bottom loop at end of the gin pole. Tension mainsheet tackle so jib halyard takes the load off the forestay. Make sure mainsheet is jammed and, for extra security, secure to bow mooring cleat.

1. Connect topping lift on aft bale of the boom.

Attach and install forward end of the boom on the mast goose neck. Install bolt and nut to secure this connection.

2. Recheck all riggings, make sure they are secured

and safe for operation.

MAINSHEET PURCHASE

1. Reinstall the mainsheet on boom and on top of

cockpit stainless grab rail; the fiddle with cam cleat should be attached on the grab rail. Ensure the system is secured for operation.

BOOM VANG INSTALLATION

1. Attach and install the lower fiddle block (with cam

cleat) on vang toggle on mast step safety pin. Attach boom vang upper fiddle block on forward bale of the boom. Make sure the shackles are secure for operation.

2. Refer to Section 15 GETTING READY TO SAIL.

MAST LOWERING

1. IF LOWERING THE MAST IN THE WATER,

ENSURE THE BALLAST TANK IS FULL.

2. Remove sails, boom vang and boom.

3. Install mast support crutch to transom, if not

already done.

8. Loosen forestay turnbuckle and remove forestay

from stemhead fitting.

9. Check for overhead electrical cables, make sure

that no one is standing in the cockpit or under the mast, and confirm that the mast is in all respects ready to lower.

10. Allowing the mainsheet to hook around the bow

mooring cleat, unjam the mainsheet and, holding the mainsheet tail in one hand, ease tension on the mainsheet tackle while pushing the mast aft with your other hand. Retaining the deflection of the mainsheet around the cleat, ease the mainsheet further until the mast begins to hinge aft.

11. Continue lowering the mast, remembering that the

load on the tackle will increase as the mast is being lowered until it rests in the mast crutch.

12. Disconnect the gin pole and mast electrical wiring

so the mast can slide forward.

13. Remove mast step pin and disconnect mast base

from step while restraining bottom end of mast and retaining boom vang strap. Replace pin, vang strap and cotter pin.

14. Slide mast forward on mast crutch roller until base

of mast rests in bow pulpit support cradle. Secure mast in place at pulpit and at mast crutch. Take slack out of shrouds and secure forestay forward.

4. Horizontally install gin pole.

15. GETTING READY TO SAIL / SAIL MODE

REFER TO THE USER’S MANUAL FOR MORE DETAILS ON OPERATING YOUR BOAT UNDER SAIL.

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

THE MAST MAY BE RAISED WHILE THE BOAT IS ON THE TRAILER OR AFTER THE BOAT IS LAUNCHED. (Caution: the boat will be less stable during the launch and retrieve process.) MAKE SURE THAT ALL HALYARDS AND REEFING LINES ARE INSTALLED USING THE MESSENGER LINES ALREADY RUN IN THE MAST. MAKE SURE THE CENTERBOARD AND THE RUDDER ARE SECURED AT ALL TIMES.

1. The rudder must be in the down position. Lower

the rudder inside the helm seat by removing the safety pin to allow the rudder to drop below the safety bracket; replace the pin. Pull the downhaul sheeting until the rudder is completely down then tie the sheeting to the cleat. The rudder trunk overflow drain ball valves (upper and lower ball valves) must be open. These open ball valves will allow draining of excess water built up during operation. If the ball valves are closed, water may overflow the upper rudder bearing and may flood the aft cabin.

2. The centerboard must be in the down position.

To lower the centerboard, coil raising line around starboard winch and hold firm, unlock sheet stopper, slowly payout raising line until centerboard is completely down.

3. If not already done, open the ballast tank

guillotine valve, located on the stern of the boat, and the ballast tank vent valve, located in the port locker, and begin filling the ballast tank. To verify the tank is full, open the ballast tank access cover under the lower step and locate the Minimum Water Level Mark. When the water level reaches the Minimum Water Level Mark, close the guillotine valve and vent valve.

4. If the rig was not setup on trailer, follow the mast

raising instruction section to setup the rigs on boat. After the mast has been raised, attach the forestay turnbuckle to the most forward of the two holes in the stem fitting. Turnbuckle should be about ¾ open. Confirm that the upper and lower shrouds are supporting the mast.

5. Remove the mast-raising pole.

6. Using the main halyard, center the rig in the

middle of the boat by first jamming the halyard in a position so that the halyard shackle just contacts a known point on the toe rail adjacent to the mast on the port side. Transfer the halyard to the starboard side and, applying the same amount of tension, see if the shackle contacts the corresponding position on the starboard toe rail. If the shackle falls short, ease the port upper shroud turnbuckle and tension the starboard, always maintaining some tension on each shroud so they are not slack. If the shackle overshoots the mark on the toe rail, ease the starboard upper shroud turnbuckle and shorten the opposite side until the halyard shackle contacts both points on the opposite toe rail uniformly. Turnbuckles are tensioned by turning the center portion counter clockwise and loosened by turning it clockwise. The turnbuckle’s upper swage, the one on the wire, should be held with a wrench to prevent it from turning as the turnbuckle rotates.

7. After the mast is centered, check to see if the rake

of the mast is approximately one degree aft. This can be measured by hanging plumb line or a weight, such as an adjustable wrench, from the main halyard shackle and adjusting the halyard so the weight is suspended immediately above the deck. With the boat level, this plumb line or weight, should be 22” from the aft of the mast. Adjust the forestay turnbuckle as necessary to achieve this position.

8. Tension the upper shrouds uniformly, alternately

taking six turns on one, then the other, until the upper shrouds are tight. The upper shrouds put tension on the forestay and reduce forestay “sag”.

ELECTROCUTION HAZARD Make sure that the mast and rigging are clear of all overhead electrical cables when being raised, lowered or maneuvered about a launching area. Contact with an electrical cable can result in property damage, serious injury or death.

9. Check if the mast is straight when looking from

the stern of the boat. To “sight” use the main

15. GETTING READY TO SAIL / SAIL MODE

halyard by tensioning it to the mast’s base plate. If the mast appears to bow to one side, ease the lower shroud on that side and tension the shroud on the opposite side until the mast appears straight.

10. Once the mast is straight when viewed from the

back or front, sight up the mast from the side to see if there is any fore and aft bend. The mast should be bowed forward at the spreaders by approximately 4”. Ease or tension the lower shrouds uniformly until this slight amount of bend is achieved. When finished, the lower shroud should be slightly less tight than the main shrouds. If you sail in a predominately heavy air region, slightly more mast bend, in the 5” to 6” range, may be desirable in order to flatten and depower the main sail.

11. After tuning the rig, install cotter pins in all

turnbuckles to prevent them from moving while sailing.

12. Install the battens in the mainsail. Attach head of

mainsail to main halyard. Attach tack of mainsail to cunningham hook. Attach clew of mainsail on outhaul line.

13. Install the reefing line (the longer of the two) in the

boom with the messenger line provided and lead from the sheave through the upper cringle at the back of the sail down to the sliding eye on the bottom of the boom. Pull enough slack into the reef line so that the sail can be fully raised unimpeded by the reef line. Tie the mainsail onto the boom with the sail ties.

14. Attach the jib sheet onto the jib and lead the

sheets inside the shrouds to the lead blocks on the deck house top, then aft to the cam cleat on the house top. Tie figure eight knots in the end of the sheets to prevent them from running back through the jams. Shackle the bottom of the jib to the padeye aft of stemhead and hank the jib onto the forestay. Bunch and tie to prevent it blowing overboard before it is ready to hoist.

15. Attach jib and main halyards to their respective

sails.

16. Lower the rudder blade to the full down position..

The rudder must be down to achieve the correct balance for the proper helm loading. A rudder, which is not lowered, will load up excessively in

severe conditions preventing the helmsman from responding to puffs and thus allowing the boat to “round up”. The cleat is provided to retain the blade in the correct position.

17. If sailing off an anchorage. Make sure the anchor

is retrieved and stowed properly.

18. Raise sails, beginning with the main and then the

jib while motoring into the wind. Once each halyard, beginning with the main, is tensioned, the halyard can be tied down into its respective cleat and the excess line coiled. When the sails are raised, the boat can be turned away from the wind. Once sailing the engine can be turned off and tilted upward to clear the water.

19. When the main is sheeted in confirm that the

topping lift is not lifting the boom. The main should be capable of sheeting in hard without the topping lift being tight. With the main sheeted in hard, the topping lift should have eight to ten inches of sag and should be adjusted accordingly. When at dock or at mooring, the topping lift can be readjusted to raise the boom to a comfortable height above the cockpit.

20. Final tuning of the rig will take place when sailing

by sighting up the mast while going upwind in about ten to twelve knots of breeze. The mast should maintain its 4” (10.2cm) fore and aft bend, but should also still appear straight transversely with the leeward main shroud still retaining its tension and not going slack. If the leeward rigging does go slack when sailing, apply more tension uniformly to both shrouds by first tightening the leeward rigging and then tension the new leeward rigging the same amount. Continue this procedure, as necessary until the leeward upper shrouds no longer appear slack and forestay sag has been reduced. Removal and reinstallation of the turnbuckle cotter pins will be necessary to make these fine tuning adjustments.

21. Once the upper shrouds are tensioned, again

sight up the spar to make sure that the middle of the spar at the spreaders is not falling to leeward or bending to weather. Adjust and uniformly retention the lower shrouds as necessary.

NOTE: Standing rigging will stretch slightly when initially loaded. Therefore, the rigging may have to be further tensioned slightly after a few sails in a

15. GETTING READY TO SAIL / SAIL MODE

strong breeze to compensate for this initial stretch. Once the mast is tuned and initial stretch is taken out, the rig should need retuning only at the beginning of each season.

22. Once done sailing, the sails should be lowered

while motoring into the wind, with the jib lowered first and then the main.

16. GETTING READY TO POWER / POWER MODE

REFER TO THE USER’S MANUAL FOR MORE DETAILS ON OPERATING YOUR BOAT UNDER POWER.

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

THOROUGHLY FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE CONTENTS OF THE ENGINE MANUFACTURER’S OWNER’S MANUAL. THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED A REPLACEMENT OF THE MANUFACTUERER’S MANUAL NOR A COMPLETE LIST OF INSTRUCTIONS OR RECOMMENDATIONS.

OUTBOARD ENGINE

The engine manufacturer’s owner’s manual is accompanied with the Hunter Operator’s Manual. This manual will contain technical specifications, running instructions and a maintenance schedule on lubricants and other important functions. For longer engine life, follow the routine maintenance schedule recommended by the manufacturer.

FUEL RECOMMENDATIONS

2. Always use fresh gasoline. Gasoline will oxidize,

3. Additives: Do not use any additives other than

BEFORE START-UP

Lanyard MUST be securely attached to the operator, and clip MUST be installed on key switch. DO NOT operate outboard with clip removed from switch, except in an emergency.

Make sure to follow the outboard engine manual instructions for first time starting of the engine. It’s recommended that you consult with your local dealer and follow the dealer’s recommendations for this procedure.

RUNNING CHECKS

resulting in loss of octane and volatile compounds, as well as the produce gum and varnish deposits, which can damage the motor.

approved by the engine’s manufacturer. Use of other additives can result in poor performance or engine damage.

SAFETY HAZARD

FIRE HAZARD Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive under certain conditions. Improper handling of fuel could result in property damage, serious injury or death. Always turn off the outboard before fueling. Never permit anyone other than an adult to refill the fuel tank. Do not fill the fuel tank all the way to the top or fuel may overflow when it expands from sunlight. Remove portable fuel tanks from the boat before fueling and always wipe off any fuel spillage. Do not smoke, allow open flames or sparks or use electrical devices such as cellular phones in the vicinity of a fuel leak or while fueling.

1. Octane: Refer to the manufacturer’s manual for

minimum to maximum octane rating for the outboard engine.

SAFETY HAZARD

 DO NOT run outboard without a water

supply to the outboard’s cooling system. Cooling system and/or powerhead damage could occur.

 DO NOT run outboard in water when in

the up position.

 DO NOT run the engine indoors without

adequate ventilation or permit exhaust fumes to accumulate in confined areas.

 Engine exhaust contains carbon

monoxide which, if inhaled, can cause serious brain damage or death.

 Contact with a rotating propeller is likely

to result in serious injury or death. Ensure the engine and propeller area is clear of people and objects before starting engine or operating boat.

 DO NOT allow anyone near a propeller,

even when the engine is off. Propeller blades can be sharp and can continue to turn even after the engine is off.

16. GETTING READY TO POWER / POWER MODE

System Check Operation

1. Attach emergency stop lanyard.

2. Turn key switch to ON.

3. Observe the System Check self-test function.

Warning horn should sound for ½ second and all warning lights should turn on at the same time then turn off one at a time.

Fuel System

1. Squeeze fuel primer bulb until hard. Observe all

fuel hoses and connections. Repair any leaks.

2. Start outboard. Inspect all hoses and connections.

Repair any leaks or misrouted hoses immediately

Emergency Stop / Key Switch

Check emergency stop function. With outboard running at idle, pull safety lanyard from emergency stop switch. Outboard should stop immediately.

Remote Control Operation

Make sure the control can be easily moved into all gear and throttle settings. Do not shift remote control when outboard is not running.

Start-in-Gear Prevention

Please follow the manufacturer’s manual for performing this “Starter-in-Gear Prevention procedure.

SAFETY HAZARD Make certain that the starter will not operate when the outboard is in gear. The starter-in gear prevention feature is required by the United State Coast Guard to help prevent personal injuries.

Tachometer Pulse Setting

1. Confirm accuracy of tachometer reading.

2. Adjust dial on back of tachometer to required

setting (the outboard should not be running).

3. Refer to outboard engine manual for settings of

tachometer of particular outboard model.

”

Operating Temperature

An outboard running at idle speed should achieve a temperature based on the engine’s thermostatic control. In general, the powerhead temperature should reach at least 104°F ( 40°C) after five minutes of idling. Check that the powerhead reaches idle temperature.

Idle Speed

Outboard idle speed is essential for proper outboard control and shift function. Make sure the outboard idles within the specified idle RPM range. If the outboard is run on a flushing device, the idle and quality may not be representative of actual “in water” use.

Break-In

Please refer to the correct break-in procedure in the manufacturer’s manual.

Warm-up

Before cruising, run the engine at a low speed for about three minutes as a warm-up operation to allow the oil to circulate throughout the machine. Otherwise, the life of the engine will be negatively affected. During warm-up operation, confirm that cooling water is discharged from its check port.

Fueling

When fueling your engine, be sure to use fresh fuel. Fuel that has been in a tank too long can form gum and varnish, which can affect performance. Use oil as recommended by the manufacturer. Two stroke engines require a special oil to be either mixed with gasoline or injected from a remote tank. This lubrication is essential for the operation of the engine.

EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD

• Store flammable material in safety approved

containers. Keep containers in an area designed for that purpose. Never store in a non-vented space.

• Observe no-smoking while fueling

• Fill to less than the capacity of the tank.

Allow for fuel expansion.

• Inspect fuel system regularly for leaks.

Water Pump Overboard Indicator

A steady stream of water should flow from the overboard indicator.

16. GETTING READY TO POWER / POWER MODE

CAPSIZE HAZARD Your boat has been designed for boating under sail OR power mode. Boating under sail and power at the same time may cause the boat to capsize and could result in property damage, man overboard situation or possible death.

MOTOR POWER

When powering your boat, ensure the following:

1. The ballast tank is completely full. If the tank is

full and must be emptied, open the ballast tank guillotine valve, located at the aft end of the boat, and the ballast tank vent valve, located in the port locker, and begin motoring within the docking or boat ramp areas. Do not exceed 6 mph, wake speed or begin emptying before reaching protected waters. After approximately 15 minutes, verify the ballast tank is empty by inspecting the guillotine valve for discharging water. When water no longer flows from the valve, close the guillotine valve and vent valve.

2. Fill the tank when the boat is stationary. The

filling process will take approximately 15 minutes in non-moving water. Do not attempt to fill the ballast tank by reversing the boat. This may cause excess pressure in the tank resulting in possible damage. Do not run the outboard engine while filling the tank.

3. Lower ring the sails down and tie them off with the

boom properly secured.

4. Put the rudder in the up position. To raise the

rudder, simply pull the up-haul line located inside the helm seat. Use the safety pin to lock the rudder on the pivot joint bracket. The rudder trunk overflow drain ball valves (upper and lower ball valves) must be open. These open ball valves will allow draining of excess water built up during operation. If the ball valves are closed, water may overflow the upper rudder bearing and flood the aft cabin.

5. Put the centerboard in the up position with the up-

haul locked in the sheet stopper. For greater

control, the centerboard can be in the down position when motoring at speeds less than 6 mph, considering sufficient water depth.

6. Put the outboard engine in the full down position

and locked. (Do not operate your outboard engine in the up position).

7. Close and secure the forward deck hatch. It is

recommended that all deck ports (windows) be closed.

8. All loose items throughout the boat are securely

stored. Ensure no loose items remain on deck.

9. If the boat is equipped with a transducer, make

sure the control panel is functioning and monitoring speed and depth.

10. If anchored, make sure the anchor is retrieved

and properly stowed.

11. Distribute weight aft, low and centered. Seat the

crew within the cockpit and evenly distributed port and starboard. Ensure no one is positioned on the cabin or foredeck. Redistribute storage weight aft of the v-berth area as much as possible.

CAPSIZE HAZARD Powering your boat at high speed with rudder and centerboard down may cause the boat to capsize, resulting in property damage, a man overboard situation or possible death.

CAPSIZE HAZARD Powering your boat at high speed in rough water may cause the boat to capsize and could result in property damage, injury, man overboard situation or possible death. Keep the ballast tank full and decrease speed in rough waters.

DO NOT USE MOTOR POWER WITH SAILS UP. Winds could fill the sails and cause the boat to capsize, resulting in property damage, serious injury, man overboard situation or possible death.

CAPSIZE HAZARD

17. STOVE AND TOILET

STOVE

Carefully read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions prior to operating your stove. Save the instructions for review and to transfer to subsequent owners.

USE ONLY THE FUEL RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER AND STORE THE FUEL IN AN APPROVED CONTAINER.

DO NOT SMOKE WHILE WORKING WITH FUEL. IMMEDIATELY CLEAN UP ANY SPILLED FUEL.

STAINING/PRESSURE HAZARD

• Avoid adding holding tank deodorant

through the bowl. If adding to the bowl, slide valve must be fully opened. Avoid spilling or splashing deodorants on slide valve seals or bowl. Rinse off any spilled or splashed deodorant immediately.

• Atmospheric pressure and temperature

changes may cause pressure buildup in lower holding tank. Caution should be used when first opening slide valve.

EXPLOSION/FIRE/ASPHYXIATION HAZARD

• Open flame cooking appliances consume

oxygen. This can cause asphyxiation or death.

• Maintain open ventilation.

• Liquid fuel may ignite, causing severe

burns.

• Use fuel appropriate for type of stove.

• Turn off stove burner before filling.

• Do not use stove for comfort heating.

• Use special care with flames or high

temperatures near urethane foam. Once ignited, it burns rapidly, producing extreme heat, releasing hazardous gasses and consuming a large amount of oxygen.

TOILET

theEDGE comes standard with a portable, selfcontained marine toilet. Please refer to the manufacturers instructions to familiarize yourself with the correct operation of your toilet.

Be sure to keep your toilet secured by connecting it to supplied hold down brackets. Add a holding tank deodorant to the lower unit of the tank, which is the holding tank

Empty the holding tank at an approved permanent toilet facility. Ensure the valve is closed and carry it by the built-in handles. Empty, rinse with fresh water and reassemble the unit.

18. PUMPS AND WATER SYSTEM

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

PUMPS

All pumps should be checked frequently to ensure proper operation. This is a critical regular maintenance item. Properly operating pumps could save your vessel from costly damage.

Inspect all bilge pump hoses for chafing and dry rot. Ensure all hose clamps are tight. Check that the bilge pump impeller area is clean and free of obstructions. Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion. Ensure that the float switch functions properly.

WATER SYSTEM OPERATION

theEDGE is equipped with a manual pump water system, incorporating a water tank and a level actuated manual pump. After sitting for sometime, the pump will need a few strokes to prime the system. If you are using water for dr inking or washing, be aw are of the quality of the water on board and periodically flush the water tank to keep it clean. When storing the boat for the winter, empty the water tank and pump the line dry.

SINKING HAZARD

Ensure proper bilge pump operation.

EQUIPMENT DAMAGE HAZARD Take note of the water tank location when adding options or additional features. When installing, ensure fasteners do not violate the tank housing.

19. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

REFER TO THE DRAWINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL SECTION OF THIS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

THIS SECTION PROVIDES BASIC INFORMATION TO UNDERSTAND, OPERATE AND MAINTAIN YOUR DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. IT IS NOT INTENDED TO EDUCATE YOU ON REPAIRING OR EXTENDING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

BATTERIES

The batteries installed in the boat have been selected for their ability to furnish starting power based on engine starting requirements, as well as their ability to power the DC components attached to the electrical system.

The DC power source is a 12V battery, just as with an automobile, and it must be charged regularly. Some outboard motors include a small alternator which will assist in recharging the battery. If not, you must use a battery charger. Perform regular visual inspections to ensure proper water levels and terminals free of corrosion. If the boat sits for long periods without use, it is recommended to remove the battery(s) and connect them to a trickle charger to keep them fully charged and ready for use.

CHEMICAL HAZARD Batteries contain Sulfuric Acid and can cause severe personal injury if mishandled. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, or clothing. In case of contact, flush with water at least 15 minutes. If swallowed, drink large quantities of water or Milk of Magnesia, beaten egg, or vegetable oil and get medical attention immediately.

SAFETY HAZARD

• Carefully follow safety instructions

included with battery.

• Always charge battery in a ventilated

location.

BREAKERS, SWITCHES, AND FUSES

All electrical systems aboard the boat are provided with over-current protection in the form of breakers or fuses. Breakers can be found at the component controls at the 12 Volt Panel or in the battery selector switch panel. The systems that require energizing are given switches.

LIGHTING SYSTEMS

There are three distinct lighting systems aboard your boat: the interior (Cabin), the exterior and the navigational lighting. The lights are powered from the 12 Volt DC Panel.

ELECTRIC COOLER (OPTION)

If the boat is equipped with the electric cooler option, the manufacturer’s manual will be included and normally found in the cooler. Follow the instructions from the manufacturer’s manual on cooler use.

MAINTENANCE

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground installation. On a weekly basis, you should inspect batteries, terminals and cables for signs of corrosion, cracks, and electrolyte leakage. Battery terminals are to be kept clean and greased. Ensure all connections are clean, tight and covered with a corrosion inhibitor compound. Refer to specific instructions on batteries, wiring diagrams, and electronics.

20. ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS

FUEL AND OIL SPILLAGE

The spilling of fuel or oil into our waterways contaminates the environment and is dangerous to wildlife. Never discharge or dispose of fuel or oil into the water. It is dangerous and unlawful. Common types of accidental discharge include over-filling the fuel tank and pumping contaminated bilge water into the sea.

EXPLOSION/FIRE/POLLUTION HAZARD: Fill fuel tank to less than rated capacity to allow for expansion. Overfill forces fuel out the tank vents, which can cause explosion, fire, or environmental pollution.

DISCHARGE AND DISPOSAL OF WASTE

Waste includes all forms of garbage, plastics, recyclables, food, wood, detergents, sewage, and even fish parts in certain waters. We recommend you return with everything from offshore for proper disposal onshore.

Your marine holding tank (if so equipped) must, in many areas, be pumped out by an approved pumpout facility generally found at marinas.

EXHAUST EMISSIONS

Hydrocarbon exhaust emissions pollute our water and air. Keep your engine properly tuned to reduce emissions and improve performance and economy.

ANTI-FOULING PAINTS

The use of anti-fouling paints is common for boats maintained in water. Be aware of environmental regulations that may govern your paint choice. These regulations may affect which paint may be used, and also its application or removal. Contact your local boating authorities for more information

EXPLOSION/FIRE/HAZARD Ventilate when painting or cleaning. Ingredients may be flammable and/or explosive.

CLEANING CHEMICALS

Cleaning chemicals should be used spar ingly and not discharged into waterways. Never mix cleaners and be sure to use plenty of ventilation in enclosed areas. Do not use products that contain phosphates, chlorine, solvents, nonbiodegradable or petroleum based products. Common household cleaning agents may cause hazardous reactions. Fumes can last for hours, and chemical ingredients can attack people, property and the environment.

BOTTOM PAINTING

Choose a bottom paint system that suits the environment in your area.

Follow the procedure recommended by the manufacturer of the paint, while making sure not to void the Hunter Hull Blistering Warranty. The procedure for preparing and applying paint varies between paint manufacturers, but should always include de-waxing, etching and sometimes priming of the surface.

Do not use any sanding, sandblasting or other abrasive preparation of the bottom, as this will void your hull blistering warranty.

EPOXY BARRIER COAT

Sanding of the gel coat bottom surface will be permitted should a customer wish to have an epoxy barrier coat applied to the hull, (example Interlux Interprotect 1000, 2000, West System or VCTar).

Hunter Marine distinguishes between epoxy barrier coatings and epoxy primer paints. If an epoxy barrier coat is applied to a Hunter vessel, it must be

20. ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS

registered with the Warranty Department prior to application of the product. If the dealer applies bottom paint only, sanding will not be allowed and the no sanding system must be used.

FIRE HAZARD Cleaning agents and paint ingredients may be flammable and/or explosive and dangerous to inhale. Be sure to use adequate ventilation and appropriate safety protection (gloves, safety glasses, respiration, etc).

21. OUTBOARD ENGINE MAINTENANCE

PROPER ATTENTION TO AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR ENGINE WILL ASSURE YOU MANY HOURS OF PLEASURABLE, SAFE BOATING, AND WILL PREVENT UNNECESSARY ENGINE PROBLEMS. YOU MUST, THEREFORE, BECOME THOROUGHLY FAMILIAR WITH ALL ASPECTS OF THE ENGINES PROPER OPERATION OUTLINED IN THE MANUFACTURERS OPERATOR’S MANUALS.

OPERATIONAL HAZARD Take proper care when washing down or cleaning your engine to ensure water does not enter the air in-takes. Water in the air intakes may travel directly to the cylinders, resulting in rust and possible internal engine damage.

Follow the fuel and lubrication requirements in the manufacturer’s engine manual. Check oil levels prior to starting, and use lubricants as recommended. Always check fuel lines and connections for possible leaks, which may create a dangerous situation.

ENGINES ARE NOT WARRANTIED BY THE HUNTER CORPORATION; ENGINE WARRANTIES ARE WRITTEN BY THE ENGINE MANUFACTURERS.

EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD Fuel system connections that are too loose or too tight can leak, resulting in possible fuel loss, environmental pollution, explosion or fire hazard.

If you use your outboard in salt water, wash down the exposed drive unit after every use to limit corrosion. Also, it is recommended to completely flush out the raw water cooling system as described in the manufacturer’s owner’s manual. Regularly check the propeller and drive unit for any damage or other signs of serious wear. Propeller damage will reduce

performance as well as contribute to other potential engine problems.

GENERAL INSPECTION RULES

1. Conduct Periodic Inspections for Your Safety -

2. Inspect Before Starting - Make it a daily rule to

3. Periodic Inspections at Fixed Intervals -

4. Servicing Tools - Have servicing tools available

5. Tightening Torque of Bolts & Nuts - Over-

The functions of engine components will degenerate and engine performance will drop based on engine use. If countermeasures are not taken, you may encounter unexpected troubles while cruising at sea. Consumption of fuel or lubricating oil may become excessive and exhaust gas and engine noise may increase. These all shorten the life of the engine. Periodic inspection and service increase your safety at sea.

inspect before starting.

Periodic inspections must be made after every manufacturer’s recommended hours of use. Conduct periodic inspections according to the procedures described in your outboard engine manufacturer’s manual. Routine inspection and maintenance is necessary to prolong outboard life. Outboards used in rental, commercial, or

other high hour applications require more frequent inspections and maintenance. Adjust schedule for operating and environmental conditions.

onboard to be ready for inspecting and servicing the engine and other equipment.

tightening of bolts and nuts causes them to come off or their threads to be damaged. Insufficient tightening causes oil leakage from the installation face or issues due to the loosening of bolts. Bolts and nuts must be tightened to the appropriate torque specs. Critical parts must be tightened with a torque wrench to the correct tightening torque and in the right order.

22. PROTECT YOUR RIGGING

WITHOUT CAREFUL INSPECTION AND PROPER MAINTENANCE, THE RIG IS SUBJECT TO FATIGUE, WEAR, DISCOLORATION AND, THEREFORE, PRODUCT FAILURE. REMEMBER, REGULAR INSPECTION AND CLEANING WILL INCREASE THE LIFE OF YOUR INVESTMENT AND SECURE YOUR RIGGING.

To protect your rigging we suggest the following:

1. Always rinse your rigging with fresh water after

sailing, especially salt-water sailing. Salt can create corrosion pits, causing cracks and deterioration.

2. Clean with a water-soluble chlorine-free

detergent. Nonabrasive cleansers are best for hard white vinyl coated cables.

3. Inspect rigging for stains. Rust stains may indicate

stress cracks or corrosion. Remove stains with synthetic or brass pads. Never use steel wool pads.

4. Look for broken wires, a sign of fatigue in rigging.

Replace standing rigging if wires are broken.

5. Never mix stainless steel and galvanized metals

on cables, fittings, pins, cotter keys, etc. If mixing dissimilar metals, electric currents may conduct between metals causing rapid deterioration

and continue to the luff. Lash to the boom with sail ties or shock cord.

GENERAL HARDWARE MAINTENANCE

Check all fittings regularly to be sure screws are tight. Occasionally lubricate (use silicone lubricants) all moving parts on such fittings as blocks, turnbuckles and cam cleats, as well as the locking pins of snatch blocks, track slides, spinnaker poles, etc. Inspect cleat and fairleads for roughness or smoothness with finegrained emery paper if necessary. Also, replace any missing or damaged cotter pins in turnbuckles and shackles and either tape them or use them or use protective covers manufactured for that purpose. Grease winches annually at a minimum.

WINCH MAINTENANCE

Follow the maintenance instructions prescribed by the winch manufacturer. We recommend a minimum of an annual cleaning and light greasing.

6. After unstopping, make sure to release all

standing rigging to avoid bending, crushing and kinking.

7. Store rigging in a dry place. Never store in a

plastic bag, which can cause corrosion.

SAIL CARE

Sunlight is a sail’s worst enemy, so cover the mainsail when not in use. An ultraviolet guard, fitted

down the leech of a roller headsail, will protect the exposed part from the weathering effect of the sun and from dirt and grit. Mildew can be prevented by storing sails dry and by hand washing twice a season. Check all sails regularly for chafe, particularly where they chafe on deck fittings or rigging, at reef points, batten sleeves and the foot of the headsail. Sail batten pockets should also be inspected on a regular basis.

To stow the mainsail, start at the leech and flake it onto the boom, left and right, in about 18-in. (46 cm) folds while pulling the leech aft. Secure with a sail tie

23. TRAILER MAINTENANCE

TOWING HAZARD Trailer towing can be hazardous. Overloading can cause serious injury or equipment damage. Do not overload your trailer.

TOWING HAZARD Check the certification decal located near the hitch of your trailer. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) for your trailer is 5,000 lbs. Total boat weight with all possible Hunter options installed is 4,920 lbs. (including full fuel and ½ water supply). It is your responsibility to ensure any gear or supplies loaded in your boat while under tow does not exceed the total load limit of 5,000 lbs.

TOWING HAZARD Ensure your tow vehicle has a towing capacity higher that the trailer’s GVWR. Using an under-rated tow vehicle is dangerous and illegal.

BEFORE USING YOUR TRAILER

Check all bolts and nuts for tightness, including the lug nuts for the wheels.

1. Check to ensure that all lights are working

properly.

2. Always maintain the tires at recommended air

pressure.

3. For improved tire life, have your tires spin

balanced by a qualified tire service center.

4. When the trailer is hitched to your vehicle,

remove the two-speed winch handle before departing.

5. Always check hitch, safety chain connection and

boat tie downs prior to departing.

PROTECTING AND MAINTAINING YOUR TRAILER

Before launching your boat, we recommend the light harness be disconnected from your vehicle and allow enough time for bulbs to cool. This will greatly extend the life of your bulbs.

1. The trailer has a galvanized frame, however,

some parts, including the brakes, axles, hubs, springs, U bolts, and plates, are not galvanized. Most of these parts have been sprayed with a high gloss black rust resistant paint, plus a clear coating. After launching (especially in salt water locations), rinse your trailer, including the painted components. As a continuing measure to protect your trailer, periodically refinish and repaint surfaces that show signs of rusting.

2. Periodically and regularly check your wheel

bearings for sufficient grease and tightness. The more launching you do, the more likely for the need to regrease these bearings.

WINCH MAINTENANCE

1. Periodically grease the gears of your winch with

an all-purpose grease.

2. Regularly check the winch cable for signs of wear

or damage and replace immediately if needed.

WIRING AND LIGHTING

1. Be sure your vehicle is equipped with the proper

lighting connections to avoid overloading circuits.

2. At least once a year, remove light lenses and

spray metal components with WD40 or apply a light coating of petroleum jelly.

3. Always carry spare light bulbs.

BEARINGS AND HUBS

23. TRAILER MAINTENANCE

Check wheel bearings periodically with the following procedure:

1. Leave the trailer connected to the tow vehicle with

brake set and wheels choked. (Trailer must be on level ground).

2. The first step in jacking up your trailer is to block

the wheel on the opposite side, both front and back.

3. Position the jack on the frame as near to the

wheel as possible with supporting-stands installed properly.

4. Proceed to spin the wheel and listen for any

noise. Feel the wheel for any roughness in its rotation. If your trailer is equipped with brakes, be certain that the brake shoes are not dragging. A quiet and smooth rotation indicates that the bearings are in good shape. If a noise or grinding sound is evident, the wheel bearing may need an adjustment. To check if an adjustment is needed, grip the edge of the wheel to see if it rocks, or can move. If the wheel moves at all, an adjustment is necessary. Please contact your local dealer for proper procedure. ALL WORK SHOULD BE DONE BY A QUALIFIED MECHANIC.

TIRE PRESSURE

The recommended air pressure can also be found on trailer's certification plate and it will be found molded on the tire. If the plate is damaged, your local dealer can help you in determining the proper tire and rim size.

NUTS AND BOLTS

Check on all bolts and nuts for tightness. All bolts and nuts should be checked periodically. Please refer to the Manufacturer’s manual for torque specification information.

2. If you must park your trailer outdoors, install a

boat cover that is tight enough for adequate protection but not air tight.

3. Service or repack wheel bearings according to

manufacturer's instructions.

4. Jack up the trailer and place blocks under the

trailer frame to take most of the weight off trailer springs and tires.

5. Loosen tie-downs and winch line, but be sure the

boat is resting properly on hull supports.

6. If the boat has a drain plug, remove it and elevate

the trailer tongue slightly (just an inch or two) to allow water to drain out and keep the boat dry. Tie the plug to something obvious, like the steering wheel, so you will remember to replace the drain plug before you take your next trip.

7. While boat is in storage, it is a good time to touch

up rust spots, nicks and chips and replace damaged tie-downs, winch line, wiring, etc.

8. Lubricate all moving parts such as rollers, winch,

etc.

PROPER MAINTENANCE AND CARE OF YOUR TRAILER WILL HELP ENSURE A MORE TROUBLE

FREE HAULING EXPERIENCE

TRAILER STORAGE

While in storage, the following steps are recommended to ensure continuous optimal performance:

1. If at all possible, park your trailer rig in a protected

area, i.e. garage, carport, etc.

24. GENERAL CARE

CLEANING FIBERGLASS SURFACES

Fiberglass surfaces should be cleaned regularly. Normal accumulations of surface dirt can be removed easily by occasional rinsing with water. If you operate your boat in salt water, more frequent rinsing will be required. To remove stubborn dirt, grease or oil, use a mild detergent and a soft brush. Rinse with fresh clean water. Avoid the plexiglass companionway slider, windshield, deck hatches and fixed ports when using a deck brush, since these surfaces can scratch.

It is a good idea to wax the fiberglass once or twice a year to maintain a deep, glossy appearance. Your local marine supply should be able to provide an appropriate wax.

EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD Cleaning agents and paint ingredients may be flammable and/or explosive and dangerous to inhale. Be sure to use adequate ventilation, and appropriate safety gear (gloves, safety glasses, respirator, etc.).

CLEANING ACRYLIC

Use only mild soap and water to clean acrylics, i.e. windows. Do not use products containing solvents such as ammonia, which is found in many window cleaners.

DAMAGE HAZARD Use care when cleaning acrylic. Dry cloth and many glass cleaners will scratch. Solvents will attack the surface.

VINYL

These patterns, like all fabrics, require a regularly scheduled cleaning program. A thorough cleaning should be administered on a daily, weekly or monthly

basis depending on use and exposure to dirt and/or staining agents. It is important to begin treatment of a stain as soon as possible after a spill. It is advisable to clean these products as soon as the first signs of dinginess occur; otherwise, delaying clean up will require a much greater effort to restore the product to its original appearance.

Regular cleaning requires the use of a mild cleaner such as Murphy’s Oil soap and water. In situations where the vinyl has not been washed regularly and there is a build up of dirt, stronger vinyl cleaners such as Simonize’s Tuff Stuff or Turtle Wax’s vinyl/fabric cleaner are recommended. We do not recommend the use of any other cleaners. The use of cleaners other than those recommended may result in irreparable damage to the product.

In order for the above listed cleaning solutions to work effectively on stubborn stains, please allow time for the cleaning solution to soak in thoroughly. Be sure to remove the cleaning solution before it has time to dry. Regardless of the type of cleaner used, it is necessary to finish up with a thorough rinse us ing fresh water on a clean sponge or rag. A soft bristled nylon or natural fiber brush can be used to remove built-up dirt and staining agents.

Finally, please remember that all our fabric grain vinyls require a greater cleaning effort to maintain than comparable smooth grain vinyls. These products will provide an attractive and durable alternative to conventional fabrics and vinyls if properly maintained.

FABRICS

Leather: Use mild soap water. Blot dry. Do not scrub

as this will stretch and scratch. Wipe with leather cleaner/oil to preserve and help prevent cracks before and after storage.

Fabric: Blot dry. Do not machine wash. Use only mild soap and water. Wipe with a clean white cloth. If stain persists, dry clean. Be sure to treat cleaned surfaces with scotch guard. Stretched or loose covers may be steam leaned. If foam is removed, it will restuff more easily if wrapped with thin plastic.

Storage: Cover with airflow fabric to reduce dust build up. Do not use plastic, as this will cause cushions to sweat and mildew.

Cushions: If wet, prop cushions vertically to promote airflow around each cushion. Cushions can be

24. GENERAL CARE

cleaned by most dry cleaners. Dry clean only.

WOOD MAINTENANCE

Over time, the boat interior may exhibit normal signs of wear and tear and reveal blemishes in the cherry wood finish. To address light to heavy blemishes, we recommend the following items be used within the process:

• 220 sand paper

• Mohawk Satin Top Coat

• Mohawk Sealer

• Cherry Glaze Blended Stick

Begin by sanding the blemish until it disappears. Touch up the area with the cherry blended stick and smooth out with a finger until well blended. If it is a light blemish, conclude the procedure by applying the Mohawk top coat until you achieve the desired look. If it is a heavier blemish, apply the Mohawk Sealer and allow to dry for 20 minutes. Apply any additional coats if necessary, sanding between each coat. Conclude the procedure by applying the Mohawk top coat until you achieve the desired look.

25. STORAGE AND WINTERIZATION

THIS SECTION PROVIDES BASIC RECOMMENDATIONS ON STORAGE AND WINTERIZATION AND SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED A COMPLETE OR EXACT LIST. CONSULT YOUR LOCAL DEALER FOR SPECIFIC STORAGE AND WINTERIZATION INSTRUCTIONS. BALLAST TANK SHOULD BE EMPTY TO PREVENT FREEZING OR RUPTURING.

STORAGE METHODS

Winter storage is recommended to be done in one of the following three ways:

1. Cradle blocking

2. Chained stands on level ground

3. Water with a bubbler system to prevent icing

(damage to your boat, including engine misalignment caused by twisting, is not covered by the warranty)

SAILS

Sails should be properly folded and stowed in a dry, well-ventilated place. Many sailboat owners send their sails back to the sail manufacturer at the end of each season. The sail maker will check the stitching and sailcloth for wear and store the sails until the start of the next season.

ELECTRICAL

Remove battery from boat (refer to manufacturer’s manual) and charge. It is a good idea to also remove the electronics (radio, radar, etc) and store in a safe place.

CUSHIONS

Cushions should be removed and stored at home if possible. If not, prop them vertically to promote air flow around each cushion. Dry clean only!

HATCHES

Tenting the deck during storage will help prevent ice from forming and damaging hatches and deck fittings. The installation of a passive vent will help with ventilation while the boat is in storage.

WATER SYSTEM

Open a faucet and allow the pump to empty the tank. Then add approximately two gallons (7.6L) of nontoxic antifreeze solution to the tank and repeat the pumping out procedure.

A second method is to disconnect the hoses at the pump, allowing them to drain. Find the lowest point in the system and disconnect the fitting. Open all faucets to allow the lines to drain. If possible, use a short hose on the faucet to blow through the lines to clear all water. A diluted solution with baking soda will help freshen the system.

TOILET AND HOLDING TANK

Drain and flush toilet. Using non-toxic antifreeze, pump through toilet and into holding tank.

OUTBOARD ENGINE

Store your engine in a safe place. Refer to manufacturer’s manual for specific storing and maintenance.

DEPARTURE FROM THE BOAT

Invest the time necessary to compile and complete a storage checklist. Addressing overlooked items generally becomes impractical or impossible once later remembered. Primary on this list are items relating to the safety and security of the unattended craft: turning off fuel valves, properly setting electrical switches, pumping out bilges and leaving the switch on automatic (or arranging for periodic pumping). It is

recommended that the power be turned off when leaving the boat. Other departure checklist items

should include securing ports, windows, hatches and doors.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance checklists should include items based on boat use (usually in terms of engine hours) and on calendar dates (weekly, monthly or seasonal checks).

Boat use items typically include oil level checks/ changes and oil and fuel filter changes.

25. STORAGE AND WINTERIZATION

Calendar based items typically include electrolyte levels in batteries, pressure gauges on dry chemical fire extinguishers, and navigation lights.

Check the operation of automatic bilge alarms or pump switches by running water into the boat. Periodically close and open sea cocks several times to ensure their free and easy operation in case they are needed in an emergency. Emergency equipment and supplies should be inspected for any signs of deterioration.

26. ELECTROLYSIS AND GALVANIC PROTECTION

Salt water allows electric current to flow from anodic to cathodic material. For any two distinct metals, their relative positions in the galvanic rating table will determine which loses material (the anode) and which remains largely undisturbed (the cathode). The distance between the two metals on the galvanic table determines the rate of wear. Thus a sacrificial zinc anode is often fitted to the underwater area of a boat to attract any destructive currents away from bronze or steel propeller shafts, for example. An easy place to fit an anode is on the propeller shaft, or covering the propeller nut. The anode should not be painted; this would render it ineffective.

It is not enough to know that your boat does not suffer from electrolysis; a newcomer in the adjacent marina berth may unintentionally allow an unwanted association between metal components.

To prevent electrolysis in seawater, the difference between the voltages of the two adjacent metals should not exceed 0.20 V. For example, zinc and carbon steel can be used together to avoid corrosion; however, lead and active stainless steel are compatible. Metals with a high voltage corrode faster and require a larger area to diffuse the electrochemical reaction.

DIMENSIONS AND CAPACITIES

LENGTH OVERALL 28' 06" 8.69m HULL LENGTH 26' 04" 8.69m LENGTH OF WATERLINE (LWL) 23' 04" 7.11m BEAM (MAX) 8' 04" 2.53m BEAM WATERLINE 7' 07" 2.31m DRAFT CENTERBOARD DOWN 5' 11" 1.8m DRAFT CENTERBOARD UP 1' 06" 0.46m DISPLACEMENT WITH BALLAST 5540 LBS 2513 KG BALLAST 1600 LBS 727 KG MAST HEIGHT FROM WATERLINE 33' 11" 9.42m SAIL AREA (Actual Area Including Roach and Overlap) 333 SQ.FT. 30.94 SQ.M.` WATER CAPACITY/STANDARD 2.5 U.S. Gallons 9.45 Liters WATER CAPACITY/OPTION 20 U.S. Gallons 75.7 Liters HOLDING TANK CAPACITY 12 U.S. Gallons STANDARD (PORTA-POTTY) 2.8 U.S. Gallons 10.61 Liters OPTION ( WITH. MARINE HEAD) 12 U.S. Gallons 45.46 Liters FUEL TANK CAPACITY (MAX) 2 x 12 U.S. Gallons 2 x 45.42 Liters BATTERY CAPACITY DEALER SUPPLIED ELECTRICAL VOLTAGES (STANDARD) 12V ELECTRICAL VOLTAGES (OPTION) 110V OPT. OUTBOARD ENGINE UP TO 75 H.P. 56.25 kw MAXIMUM LOADING 6 PERSONS, GEAR AND 652 kg

AND PROPULSION/1,438LBS

PAGE 57

STANDING RIGGING

QTY ITEM WIRE

SIZE

2 Cap shroud 4mm 434 ball 422 turnbuckle 315.35 Inches

1 Headstay 4mm 444 eye 5422 turnbuckle + 5621 toggle 333.66 Inches

2 Lowers 4mm 434 ball 422 turnbuckle 173.82 Inches

TOP BOTTOM WIRE LENGTH

(2/3)

(8,010 mm)

(8,475 mm)

(4,415 mm)

PIN SIZE NOTES

8mm 2/3 open turnbuckle

PAGE 58

# OPT/STD QTY SIZE/IN SIZE/MM COLOR END 1 END 2 LENGTH/FT LENGTH/M

1 STD 1 3/8 9.5 WHITE

W/ BLUE/RED TRACER EYE BARE 47.0 14.3

2 STD 1 1/4 6.3 WHITE

W/ BLUE/YELLOW TRACER EYE BARE 20.0 6.1

3 STD 1 5/16 8 BLUE FLECK EYE BARE 65.6 20.0 4 STD 1 5/16 8 RED FLECK EYE BARE 65.6 20.0 5 STD 1 5/16 8 GREY SOLID EYE BARE 59.0 18.0 6 STD 2 13/32 10 GREEN FLECK BARE BARE 55.0 16.7 7 STD 1 3/8 9.5 WHITE BARE BARE 12.0 3.7 8 STD 1 3/8 9.5 WHITE BARE BARE 8.0 2.4

9 STD 1 1/4 6.3 BLACK BARE BARE 14.0 4.3 10 STD REEF STRING 1 VARIES VARIES VARIES BARE BARE 32.8 10.0 11 STD 1 5/16 8 RED FLECK BARE BARE 24.6 7.5 12 STD 1 5/16 8 BLUE FLECK BARE BARE 37.7 11.5

PAGE 59

MAIN HALYARD JIB HALYARD

OUTHAUL REEFING LINE #1

TOPPING LIFT JIB SHEET CENTERBOARD UPHAUL

RUDDER RAISING LINE

CENTERBOARD CONTROL

ITEM

MAINSHEET VANG

HUNTER 27TE STANDARD

RUNNING RIGGING SPECIFICATIONS

Boat: HUNTER 27 THE EDGE Date: 8/11/08

27 the EDGE DECK HARDWARE LIST

ITEM DESCRIPTION

1 MAST FORWARD CRUTCH SUPPORT (ON BOW RAIL) 2 BOW ROLLER 3 ANCHOR WELL LID HINGES 4 PORT FORWARD MOORING CLEAT 5 DECK FORWARD HATCH 6 STANCHION 7 THRU DECK BLOCK 8 MAST STEP

9 MAST PORT LOWER STRUT MOUNT 10 PORT JIB SHEET TURNING BLOCK 11 PORT CHAIN PLATE 12 PORT EYE BROW 13 CAM CLEAT 14 PORT WINCH 15 PORTLIGHT WITH SCREEN 16 PORT AFT STANCHION 17 COCKPIT GRABRAIL 18 COMPASS 19 PORT AFT MOORING CLEAT 20 OUTBOARD FUEL TANK COMPARTMENT 21 COMPANIONWAY HATCH ASSEMBLY 22 STEERING PEDESTAL ACCESS COVER 23 HELMSEAT / RUDDER COMPARTMENT 24 COCKPIT STORAGE COMPARTMENT LID 25 PORT STERN RAIL 26 MAST AFT SUPPORT CRUTCH

26A STEERING ARM COVER

27 STERN LIGHT 28 INSULATION BOOT FOR ENGINE CONTROL CABLES 29 INSULATION BOOT FOR ENGINE STEERING CABLE 30 SWIM LADDER WITH GRAB PLATE

30A SWIM LADDER GRABRAIL

31 STARBOARD STERN RAIL 32 STARBOARD AFT MOORING CLEAT 33 OUTBOARD ENGINE THROTTLE / TRANSMISSION LEVER 34 COCKPIT STEERING PEDESTAL 35 JIB FURLING CLEAT 36 STARBOARD AFT STANCHION WITH FURLING BULLSEYE 37 STARBAORD WINCH 38 STARBOARD PORTLIGHT 39 CAM CLEAT 40 SINGLE LINE SHEET STOPPER 41 PAD EYE 42 STARBOARD JIB SHEET TURNING BLOCK 43 DECK STARBOARD FIXED WINDOW 44 MAST STARBAORD LOWER STRUT MOUNT 45 CENTERBOARD RAISING TURNING CHEEK 46 STARBAORD FORWARD STANCHION WITH FURLING BULLSEYE 47 STARBAORD EYE BROW 48 STARBOARD FORWARD MOORING CLEAT 49 ANCHORWELL LINE CLEAT

49A FURLING LINE TURNING BLOCK

50 ANCHORWELL LATCH

50A ANCHORWELL "U" BOLT 50B ANCHORWELL DRAIN PLATE 50C STEM PLATE 50D STEM PAD EYE

51 BOW LIGHT (ON BOW RAIL) 52 ANCHOR WELL LID

PAGE 63

27 the EDGE

IF THE WIND STRENGTH BUILDS TO THE POINT WHERE THE BOAT HEELS EXCESSIVELY OR UNCOMFORTABLY, YOU MAY REDUCE THE SAIL AREA BY TAKING IN A REEF. REEFING IS EASIEST WHEN DONE ON A STARBOARD TACK (WHEN THE WIND IS BLOWING FROM THE STARBOARD SIDE) SINCE THE JIB SHEET IS ON THE PORT SIDE, AND THE HALYARD WINCH IS THEN FREE. HOWEVER, REEFING CAN BE DONE ON EITHER TACK.

1. FEATHER THE BOAT INTO THE WIND SLIGHTLY TO REDUCE THE HEEL.

2. EASE THE TENSION ON THE MAINSHEET.

3. MAKE SURE THE STARBOARD WINCH IS FREE BY EITHER PUTTING THE BOAT ON A STARBOARD TACK OR BY TAKING THE JIB SHEET AND JAMMING IT IN THE JIB SHEET JAM CLEAT BEFORE REMOVING IT FROM THE WINCH.

4. TRANSFER THE MAIN HALYARD TO THE WINCH, AND TAKE UP FULL TENSION OF THE HALYARD BETWEEN THE WINCH AND THE SHEET STOPPER. THEN UNLOCK THE MAIN HALYARD SHEET STOPPER.

5. LOWER THE MAIN HALYARD UNTIL THE FORWARD REEF CRINGLE ON THE SAIL CAN BE SECURED BY INSERTING THE REEF HOOK THRU LOCATED ON THE BOOM GOOSE NECK THROUGH THE CRINGLE.

6. RETENSION THE MAIN HALYARD UNTIL ALL THE SLACK OR WRINKLES ARE REMOVED FROM THE LUFF.

7. TIGHTEN THE REEF LINE AT THE FORWARD END OF THE BOOM BY PULLING THE LINE DOWN THROUGH THE SHEAVE AND JAM UNTIL THE AFT REEFING CRINGLE IS AGAINST THE BOOM AND THE LINE CANNOT BE TENSIONED ANY FURTHER. THE MAINSHEET AND VANG MAY HAVE TO BE LOOSENED TO BE ABLE TO ACHIEVE THE PROPER TENSION.

8. JAM THE REEF LINE AT THE GOOSENECK. RETENSION THE VANG AND MAINSHEET ACCORDINGLY. REJAM THE MAIN HALYARD AND TRANSFER THE JIB SHEET BACK TO THE WINCH IF NECESSARY.

REEFING INSTRUCTIONS

9. IF THE WIND CONTINUES TO INCREASE, YOU MAY DROP THE JIB COMPLETELY AND LASH IT TO THE DECK USING A SAIL TIE. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO SAIL ON A REEFED MAIN ALONE. IN SOME CASES, YOU MAY FIND IT MORE EFFECTIVE TO DROP THE JIB FIRST, INSTEAD OF / BEFORE YOU TAKE IN A REEF. IT MAY ALSO BE EASIER TO TAKE IN A REEF BY TEMPORARILY LOWERING THE JIB DURING THE REEFING PROCESS.

SHAKING OUT A REEF

1. TRANSFER MAIN HALYARD TO THE WINCH AS EXPLAINED ABOVE.

2. EASE THE MAIN HALYARD DOWN ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE FORWARD REEF CRINGLE FROM THE REEF HOOK ON THE BOOM GOOSENECK.

3. UNJAM THE REEF LINE AT THE FORWARD END OF THE BOOM.

4. RAISE MAIN HALYARD USING THE WINCH. WHILE DOING SO, ENSURE THE REEFING LINE CONTINUES TO RUN THROUGH THE SAIL REEF CRINGLE AND THE FORWARD BOOM JAM.

5. TENSION THE MAIN HALYARD AND REJAM

6. ADJUST THE SHEET AND VANG AS NECESSARY.

PAGE 69

EMERGENCY TILLER OPERATION

If the situation arises where the rudder assembly is not functioning properly and affecting your steering, Hunter has available an emergency tiller to provide the required maneuverability. The emergency tiller comes standard for European boats and optional for all other destinations.

If your standard steering is experiencing a problem, inspect the rudder’s upper bearing, lower bearing and bearing rods for damage or obstruction (see page 73). If the situation can not be remedied, proceed with the following steps to assemble the emergency tiller for low-speed steering.

1. Idle the boat

2. Remove the emergency tiller components from its packet

3. Ensure all parts are present (see Emergency Tiller Components drawing, page 83)

4. Place the rudder in the down position

5. Secure the downhaul line on cleat

6. Locate the drag link mounting bracket on the front section of the upper bearing

7. Loosen the fastener securing the bracket and free the rudder from the steering wheel

8. Remove the lock nut which sec ures the drag link using the Control Arm Release Bar

9. Check the rudder freely turns

10. Insert Tiller Handle on top of Tiller Base and secure with the safety pin

11. Place the tiller handle as sembly onto rudder bracket with keyway slots fitting over bracket tabs

You are now able to manually steer your boat. Proc ee d to the closest location for standard steering system review and repairs.

HUNTER MARINE 27 the EDGE Operator's Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual