Congratulations on your new Hunter sailing yacht. We have
engineered and constructed your Hunter to be as fine a cruiser
as any afloat. In order to get the best performance and most enjoyment from your boat you should be familiar with its various
elements and functions. Please take time to study this manual
and its recommendations for trouble-free sailing pleasure.
We stand behind the quality of your Hunter with a warranty
which you should also review.
valid, please fill out the attached card and send it to us
within ten days of the purchase date.
Federal Boat Safety Act requires first owners to be registered.
The warranty data should also be recorded in the space below
for your own reference.
You also need to fill out and mail the warranty cards on your
diesel auxiliary, battery, stove, head, electric water pump and
other accessories. These are enclosed in the manufacturers'
manuals which are included in your owner's pouch
(Hull Identification Number is on outside of transom. starboard side, upper corner. This number must he given in all necessary
communications.)
HUNTER OWNER INFORMATION CARD
DATE DELIVERED TO OWNER
Hull #
Owner
Street
City and State
Model
Engine Model
Name of Boat
Dealer
Street
City and State
Dealer's Signature
Owner's Signature
Size
To insure your warranty is
Section 15 of the
Serial #
Hull #
Propeller Size
Zip
Zip
Page 2
4110
•
A copy of Chapman's
Small Boat Handling
as part of the standard equipment. Any questions
regarding the meanings of terminology used in this
manual may be referenced in your Chapman's.
Piloting, Seamanship and
is provided with your Hunter
•
Page 3
Limited Warranty
HUNTER MARINE warrants to the first use purchaser for a period
of twelve (12) months from the date of sale any part manufactured by
HUNTER to be free of defects caused by faulty workmanship or
materials under normal use and service.
During this period HUNTER will repair or replace any part judged
to be defective by HUNTER free of charge at its plant or at the option
of HUNTER, by an authorized HUNTER dealer. Transportation costs
are the responsibility of the first use purchaser. The labor cost reim-
bursement will be based on a labor allowance schedule established by
HUNTER and where not applicable, on a reasonable number of hours
as determined by HUNTER. All repairs and replacements must be approved in advance by an authorized HUNTER representative.
This warranty does not cover:
Paint, window glass, gel coat, upholstery damage, plastic
(1)
finishes, engines, engine parts, propellers, shafts, controls, instruments and equipment not manufactured by HUNTER.
Any warranty made by the manufacturer of such items will
be, if possible, passed on to the first purchaser.
Boats or parts which have been altered or subjected to
(2)
negligence or misuse.
Commercially used boats.
(3)
THIS WARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY AND ALL
OTHER REMEDIES AND EXPRESSED WARRANTIES. ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY AND FITNESS ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION
OF THIS LIMITED WARRANTY. Some states do not allow limitations
on how long an implied warranty lasts, so that the above limitation
may not apply to you.
ANY. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHICH MAY BE INCUR-
RED ARE EXCLUDED AND THE LIABILITY OF HUNTER AND
THE PURCHASER'S REMEDY SHALL BE LIMITED TO REPAIR
OR REPLACEMENT OF ANY PART OR PARTY JUDGED DEFEC-
TIVE BY HUNTER. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limita-
tion of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or
exclusion may not apply to you.
The purchaser acknowledges that no other representations were
made to him with respect to the quality and function of the boat.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have
other rights which vary from state to state.
This warranty shall not be effective unless the HUNTER warranty
card and predelivery service record are completed and returned to
HUNTER within ten (10) days after the date of sale to the first use
purchaser.
•D2 and D3 are cut to a fixed length (no
turnbuckles).
Initial tuning is best accomplished
before the mast is stepped.
Support the mast, forward side down,
about 1/4 of its length from the end and
at its center. Once the mast is supported,
make certain that it has no bow in any
direciton. Attach a small string from the
masthead, in line with the sail track
groove, to the base of the mast, stretching it as tight as possible. Check to
make sure it is a constant distance from
the mast along the entire length.
You are now ready to "tune in" the
desired mast bend, which is 1% of the
mast height above the boom (.01 x mast
height above boom). On a 50' mast, this
would be .5 feet at the mid point of the
mast.
Using the rigging diagram, locate dl
and d2. Before tuning, make sure the
turnbuckles are adjusted back with equal
thread showing. Carefully counting turns,
adjust dl port, dl starboard, d2 port and
d2 starboard evenly until the desired
bend is induced. This is checked by
measuring from the string down to the
mast at the center of the mast.
It is Important to make sure the mast
is straight athwartships at this time.
You are now ready to step the mast.
Step the mast with all shrouds loosely
attached.
Adjust the forestay and backstay to
obtain the desired mast rake. The mast
should be vertical or raked aft. The more
rake, the greater the weather helm. The
D3*
V2
V1
D1
D2*
dl
d2
forestay and backstay should have a
reasonable amount of tension on them.
Adjust V2 (port and starboard) evenly
until they are tight. You should finish with
approximately equal amounts of thread
showing on each turnbuckle.
Using the jib halyard, check the mast
for athwartship plumb. Pull the halyard
out to the side of the boat and below the
shear. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side. If you find a big difference
(more than 1/2") adjust turnbuckles an
equal amount in opposite directions until
the mast is straight.
Adjust V1 (port and starboard), using
the above procedure.
Repeat for D1 (port and starboard).
Your mast should now have the
original "pre-bend" and be straight
athwartship.
Check the mast tuning by sailing in
medium winds (10-12 knots). Sail on
both tacks, sighting up the luff groove to
check athwartship straightness. Shrouds
should not
When mast tuning is complete, install cotter pins in all turnbuckles and tape over
sharp edges of the cotter pins with chafe
tape.
be
loose on the leeward side.
Page 5
Hunter
B & R RIGGING
D3, Upper Upper:
Runs from Upper Tang to
Upper Spreader Tip
Upper Spreaders
V2. Lower Upper:
Runs from Upper Spreader
Tip, thru Lower Spreader
Tip to Chainplate on Deck
D2, Upper Intermediate:
Runs from Tang below
Upper Spreaders to Lower
Spreader Tips
d2, Upper Diamond:
Runs from Upper Spreader
Tip to Tang above Lower
Spreader
Lower Spreaders
V2, Lower Upper Cont.
VI, Lower Intermediate:
Runs from Lower Spreader
Tip to Chainplate on Deck
dl, Lower Diamond:
Runs from Lower
Spreader Tip to Tang
above Bottom End of
Mast Extrusion
DI, Lower:
Runs from Tang below
Lower Spreader to
Chainplate on Deck
Page 6
HUNTER
•
•
TUNING THE
RIGGING:
MAST TUNING INSTRUCTIONS:
Attach stays and shrouds.
After raising your mast, attach
the headstay, backstay, upper
shrouds and lower shrouds. Set the
headstay tumbuckle at 1/2 open and
then tighten backstay turnbuckle to
medium tension.
To center mast athwartships,
start with only slight tension on the
upper and lower shrouds. Check to
see if the mast is centered in the
boat by measuring from the
masthead to the chainplates with a
steel tape measure hoisted completely up the main halyard. Adjust
the upper shroud until the
measurements port and starboard
are exactly the same. Now the spar
is plumb athwartships, tension both
uppers equally, counting turnbckle
revolutions as you go. Tighten uppers until you have approximately 1"
of "prebend" fore and aft in the
mast. This is achieved because the
swept spreaders will push the middle
part of the mast forward as you increase tension of the uppers.
Now tighten the lower shrouds
evenly making sure the mast remains straight athwartship. Sight up
the luff groove to assure this
straightness. Lowers should end up
almost as tight as the uppers.
Tighten backstay to a taut position.
Perhaps 8.10 turns past your original
tension.
Check the mast tuning by sailing
in medium winds (10.12 knots).
Sometimes fine tuning of the upper
and lower shrouds Is necessary when
the spar is loaded In sailing conditions. Sail on both tacks, sighting up
the luff groove to check athwartship
straightness. Both upper and lower
shrouds should not be loose on the
leeward side.
When mast tuning is complete,
install cotter pins in all turnbuckles
and tape over sharp edges of the
cotter pins with chafe tape.
Page 7
Hunter
RIGGING DIAGRAM
.
Backstay
Runs from Mast Head
to Backstay
Chainpiate on Deck
Uppers: continued
Headstay:
Runs from Mast Head
to Stemhead on Deck
Spreader
Upper
Runs from Tang or
T-ball on Top of Mast,
thru Spreader Tip to
Chainplate on Deck
•
Lowers.
runs from Tang or
T-ball below Spreader
to Chainplate on Deck
Turnbuckles
Page 8
HUNTER
CARE OF
RUNNING RIGGING
To protect your running rigging (sheets,
halyards) from damage, wash with cold
water (and a mild detergent, if
necessary), especially after exposure to
salt water. Rinse thoroughly and coil.
Hang the tail ends of halyards off the
deck to promote drying. Sheets should
also be hung to dry.
Inspect all lines periodically for fraying
and other damage. Lines showing
substantial wear should be replaced.
CARE OF
STANDING RIGGING
The stays and shrouds on your
Hunter are highly durable stainless steel
to insure years of reliable service. To protect your standing rigging, keep it clean,
and, whenever possible, rinse thoroughly
with fresh water. Check occasionally for
"fishhooks," strands of wire that have
broken and curled outward. These can
snag sails and inflict painful cuts in bare
hands. Broken strands indicate the wire is
deteriorating and should be replaced.
Also inspect turnbuckles regularly and
replace any missing cotter pins. Occasional lubricating improves both the life
and the function to turnbuckles.
SHAFT LOG
The stuffing box is held to the shaft
log tube by a rubber tube, secured by
hose clamps. The clamps should be tight
and no water should leak from this location.
A slight drip from the stuffing box at
the shaft exit is necessary (4 drops a
minute).
To adjust, loosen lock nut, tighten
gland nut 1/4 turn, retighten lock nut. If
excessive water flow persists after adjustment, replace the packing and then adjust as above.
ENGINE ALIGNMENT
The engine should be aligned by experienced marine service personnel. Final
alignment should be done after launching, with all normal gear aboard. A
description of the procedure follows.
The coupling flanges must come
together evenly at all points, a feeler
gauge is used to check the gap. If adjustment Is necessary, the engine is tilted up
or down, and/or side to side until the
flanges meet equally. Severe vibration will
result from misalignment and can cause
strut bearing and shaft damage.
Alignment should be checked again
after several weeks of use.
Page 9
HUNTER
DIESEL ENGINE
An engine owners manual is supplied
with your boat and should be read
thoroughly. The manual contains
technical specifications, running instructions and maintenance schedule on
lubricants and fluids. For long engine life,
follow routine maintenance schedules.
You should check engine oil,
transmission fluid, and coolant levels.
Water, rust, scale and dirt will cause
serious damage to the injectors on diesel
engines. You should check your filters
frequently and change when necessary.
If you start your engine, run it a
minimum of 15 minutes to bring it up to
operating temperature. This insures that
any condensation is evaporated. Your
engine should "run-out", at 3/4 throttle,
at least once a month to clean out carbon
build up and moisture.
STARTING:
1.
Visually check engine compartment
to see that the throttle linkage, shifting
controls, electrical connections and fuel
lines are properly secured.
2.
BEFORE EACH START check oil
in engine and transmission.
3.
Insure that engine shut-off cable is
properly secured and operating.
4.
Place the shift lever (Fig. la) in the
neutral position.
5.
Move the throttle or "fuel" lever
(Fig. lb) forward to approximately the
half speed position.
6.
Insert the starter key and turn to
the "ON" position.
7.
Press the starter button and hold
until engine starts, then release The buzzer
and/or light should then go off.
8.
Back the throttle off to an idle
position (700-800 rpm) allow cold engine
to warm up a minimum of 5 minutes.
9.
Check to see that the lube oil
pressure warning light and the charge
lamp go off.
If any of the warning lamps do not go
off above 1000 rpm, the engine is
malfunctioning and should be stopped
immediately. Consult your nearest engine
dealer.
NOTE: To stop engine at any time,
pull "fuel" lever all the way aft (Fig. lb).
Before stopping, however, it is a good
idea to idle the engine in neutral for
about 5 minutes, then race it in the full
throttle position for a moment, then
return to idle and stop the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT TURN SAFETY
MAIN SWITCH TO "OFF' WHILE
ENGINE IS RUNNING. THIS CAN
SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE ALTERNATOR.
MOTORING:
When engine is warm, you may
move the "shift" lever either forward to
go ahead or aft to move in reverse (Fig.
la).
CAUTION: your rigging will conduct
electricity. Always check for overhead
high tension wires before proceeding.
Once clear, you may increase your speed
in a reasonable and safe manner as
desired.
IMPORTANT: do not shift from forward to reverse or back without first
lowering engine rpm.
Page 10
HUNTER
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Your Hunter is fitted with an electrical
system designed for both AC (AC not
available on the 25.5 and smaller)and
DC. While in port, you can operate any
tool, appliance or other device designed
to function on regular house current
(120V) simply by plugging your dockside
power cord into a convenient outlet on
shore, and turning your AC main breaker
on.
(DO NOT ALLOW YOUR DOCKSIDE
POWER CORD TO COME IN CONTACT WITH THE WATER. NEVER
OPERATE ANY AC POWER TOOL OR
OTHER ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
WHILE YOU OR THE DEVICE ARE IN
CONTACT WITH THE WATER.)
When leaving port, disconnect the
dockside power cord and turn the main
DC breaker on. This allows you to use
the ship's lights and other equipment
designed to operate on direct current.
Keep in mind that your DC power source
is a 12-volt battery and, just as with your
automobile, it must be charged regularly
by operating the engine. Unless a state of
charge is maintained, there may not be
enough power to operate the starter
motor. Dangerous situations can result if
the engine cannot be started when needed.
Make a regular visual check of battery(ies) to insure proper water level and
to inspect terminals for signs of corrosion.
If your boat sits for long periods without
use, it is often a good idea to remove the
battery(ies) and attach them to a trickle
charger to keep them fully charged and
ready for use.
REEFING THE
MAINSAIL
Your Hunter is equipped with an
easy-to-use jiffy reefing system. To reef
the main:
1. Ease the main sheet (boom yang if installed) — make sure topping lift is
secured In position.
►
Lower main halyard so that tack reef
2.
cringle (1) can be
placed on gooseneck reef hook (2). Retension main halyard when hooked in
place.
Clew reef line (3) must now be ten-
3.
sioned so that clew reef
cringle is brought down snugly against
boom.
Re-adjust mainsheet and boom yang.
4.
The reefed folds of cloth can be rolled
5.
up and secured with short lines through
the reef points and around the folds and
boom.
IMPORTANT: be sure to untie these first
when shaking out the reef.
To unreef, reverse the process.
6.
OPERATION OF THE
WATER SYSTEM
The water heater operates either on
120 volts AC or when the engine is running. To obtain hot water from the engine
it must run a minimum of one half hour.
CAUTION: do not turn the water
heater on until you are sure the tank is
filled with water. To do so will destroy the
heating element, which would not be
covered by the warranty.
Pressure water pumps are the demand type. Once the circuit breaker
switch is on, opening the faucet will produce water flow.
NOTE: intermittent operation of the
fresh water pump while all faucets are
•
•
Page 11
HUNTER
closed usually indicates a leak somewhere
in the lines. Trace the lines to locate the
leak and correct.
STOVE OPERATION
Follow the operating instructions supplied with the unit installed with your
boat.
TOILET
IMPORTANT: When not in use, lever
must be left in the dry position to prevent
flooding.
Before using, place the lever in the
wet position and pump slowly to partly fill and wet the inside of the bowl.
Return to dry position.
After using: return the lever to the
wet position for flushing and pump until
the bowl is thoroughly cleaned. Continue
with several more full strokes to flush
discharge lines. Return lever to the dry
position and pump slowly until bowl is
empty.
CLEANING OF
FIBERGLASS
SURFACES
Fiberglass surfaces should be cleaned
regularly. Normal accumulations of surface dirt can be removed simply by occasional rinsings with water. If your boat is
operated in saltwater, more frequent rinsing will be required. To remove stubborn
dirt, grease or oil, use a mild detergent
and a soft brush. Rinse with clean fresh
water.
It is also a good idea to wax the
fiberglass once or twice a year to maintain
a deep, glossy appearance. Your local
marine supply should be able to supply
an appropriate wax.
FIBERGLASS REPAIRS
Your Hunter dealer can supply you
with the proper gel coat to be used in
repairing any hairline cracks or chips.
1.
Using a mild detergent solution,
clean repair area completely of wax, dirt
or oil and dry completely.
2.
To patch "spiderweb" or hairline
cracks, begin by widening the crack so
that is will hold putty. This is most easily
done with an electric drill or router equipped with a V-shaped grinding bit. Also,
cut a quarter inch or so beyond the end
of each crack to relieve any stress.
3.
Brush away all dust from the
crack.
4.
Mix gel coat with filler powder to
form a creamy consistency, mix more
than enough patching compound to do
the job and stir to a smooth blend.
Temperatures should be in the 60's or
above, or a heat lamp should be used
5.
Using a putty knife, work the mixture firmly into the crack to eliminate air
bubbles. Leave an
1/16th of an Inch above the surface of
the crack to allow for shrinkage.
excess
of about
Page 12
HUNTER
6.
Since gel coat will only dry fully in
the absence of air, cover the area with a
sheet of cellophane or plastic food wrap
and tape edges to make the covering airtight.
7.
When the putty has reached a
tacky consistency, peel back the seal and
carefully slice away the excess filler that
protrudes above the surface.
8.
Replace seal and allow putty to
harden. Once hardened, remove seal
and sand flush using 320 wet or dry
sandpaper and follow with 600 wet sandpaper. Buff with fine buffing compound
to desired luster and finish by applying a
coat of wax.
SAIL CARE
AND STORAGE
Your Hunter comes with Dacron
mainsail and 110% genoa jib. To extend
the life of your sails and maintain their
best performance:
1.
Never use them in wind ranges
that exceed their capabilities.
2.
Never let them luff for extended
periods of time.
3.
Rinse your sails in fresh water
whenever possible if you sail in saltwater.
Tub wash them every few seasons to
keep them bright and attractive. DO NOT
MACHINE WASH. Use a mild detergent
in warm water, and REMOVE ALL
DETERGENTS COMPLETELY WITH A
THOROUGH RINSING.
For oil and grease stains, use commercial cleaning solvents. Should a
yellow stain develop, bleach with oxalic
acid and rinse thoroughly. Rust stains
should be soaked in a warm solution of
two parts hydrochloric acid per 100 parts
water, rinsing thoroughly.
After rinsing your sails, spread them
and allow to dry thoroughly before bagging. This is a good time to Inspect them
for minor damage. First spread sail on flat
surface, then fold In a smooth accordian
pleat from the foot to the head. Next roll
the folded sail from the clew to the tack
and slide carefully into bag.
At the end of each season, it is good
practice to have your local sailmaker inspect your sails for signs of wear and
tear.
TEAK CARE
Teak wood is an extremely durable
wood with a high oil content. To maintain
that durable quality it should be given a
coat of teak oil once a year or more in
northern climates and twice a year or
more in tropical climates.
Teak can be allowed to weather out,
as seen on many boats, but this will eventually lead to cracking and splitting.
If you wish to maintain your teak with
varnish, resin or urethane; a sealer
should be applied after cleaning and
sanding. Complete finish procedures can
be obtained from your marine finish products manufacturer or supplier.
SERVICING OF
PUMPS
All pumps should be checked frequently to Insure proper operation. THIS
IS AN ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT
REGULAR MAINTENANCE ITEM
SINCE FUNCTIONING OF A PUMP
COULD SAVE YOUR VESSEL FROM
SERIOUS DAMAGE AT SOME FUTURE
TIME.
Inspect all hoses for chafing and dry
rot. See that hose clamps are tight.
Check to see that pump impeller area
is clean and free from obstructions.
Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion.
Make sure float switch moves freely
and is making an electrical connection.
Page 13
HUNTEI4
WINCH
MAINTENANCE
Follow the maintenance instructions
prescribed by the winch manufacturer.
GENERAL
MAINTENANCE
OF HARDWARE
Check all fittings regularly to be sure
screws are tight.
Occasionally lubricate all moving parts on
such fittings as blocks, turnbuckles and
cam cleats, as well as the locking pins of
snatch blocks, track slides, spinnaker
poles, etc.
Inspect chocks, cleats and fairleads for
roughness and smooth with finegrained
emery paper if necessary.
Also, replace any missing or damaged
cotter pins in turnbuckles and shackles,
and either tape them or use protective
covers manufactured for that purpose.
STORING YOUR BOAT
FOR WINTER
IMPORTANT: Winter storage should
be on the cradle supplied with the boat.
The cradle should be blocked level and
square to prevent twisting the boat.
Damage to your boat, including engine
misalignment caused by twisting, is r.ot
covered by the warranty.
CUSHIONS
Cushions
stored at home if possible. If not, prop
them vertically to promote airflow around
each cushion.
should be removed and
HATCHES
Hatches and floorboards should be
left open a crack to provide ventilation
for the whole boat. However, it is prudent to loosely cover any open hatches
with a tarp or plastic sheeting.
WATER SYSTEM
Open
a faucet
empty the tank. Then add approximately
2 gallons of
to the tank and repeat the pumping out
process.
A second method is to disconnect the
hoses at the pump, allowing them to
drain. Find the lowest point in the system
and disconnect the fiting. Open all
faucets to allow the lihes to drain. If
possible, use a short piece of hose on the
faucet to blow through the lines to clear
all water.
and allow the pump to
non-toxic
anti-freeze solution
HOT WATER HEATER
Open valve and drain fully. Leave
valve open during lay-up-time.
TOILET AND HOLDING TANK
Drain and flush toilet. Using automotive anti-freeze (ethyleneglycol) in a
50/50 mixture with water, pump through
toilet and into holding tank.
SAILS
Sails and synthetic lines should be
washed and dried thoroughly. Sails
should be properly folded and stowed in
a dry, well ventilated place. Many sailboat
owners send their sails back to the sail
manufacturer at the end of each season.
The sallmaker will check the stitching and
sailcloth for wear and store the sails until
the start of the next season.
ENGINE
1.
Drain the cooling water completely
out of the engine and flush the line
thoroughly with fresh water. Don't use
high pressure through the line.
2.
Remove the fuel completely from
all fuel lines.
3.
Disconnect the main battery cables
from the battery terminals.
Page 14
HUNTER
4. To prevent corrosion inside the
cylinders, pour a little lubricating oil into
the suction pipe while turning the engine.
Enough oil to reach the intake/exhaust
valves is sufficient.
5.Put the piston at top dead center of
compression stroke so that the intake/exhaust valves are completely closed.
6.
Apply a thin anti-corrosion treatment to the plating and exposed painted
surfaces.
7.
The engine should be in a wellventilated area, and protected from any
kind of dampness.
Put a dust cover over the engine.
8.
9.
Check your operation manual for
engine diagram and for
TURERS RECOMMENDED
WINTERIZING PROCEDURES.
MANUFAC-
Page 15
Hunter
28.5
SPECIFICATIONS
L. O. A.
L. W. L.
Beam
Displacement:
Deep
Shoal
Draft:
Deep
Shoal
Ballast:
Deep
Shoal
Mast height
From Waterline
Headroom
Sail area
E (Mainsail foot)
J
(Foretriangle base)
P (Mainsail huff)
I (Foretriangle ht.)