Hunter 28.5 User Manual

Page 1
Welcome to the Hunter Family
Congratulations on your new Hunter sailing yacht. We have engineered and constructed your Hunter to be as fine a cruiser as any afloat. In order to get the best performance and most en­joyment from your boat you should be familiar with its various elements and functions. Please take time to study this manual and its recommendations for trouble-free sailing pleasure.
We stand behind the quality of your Hunter with a warranty which you should also review.
valid, please fill out the attached card and send it to us within ten days of the purchase date.
Federal Boat Safety Act requires first owners to be registered. The warranty data should also be recorded in the space below for your own reference.
You also need to fill out and mail the warranty cards on your diesel auxiliary, battery, stove, head, electric water pump and other accessories. These are enclosed in the manufacturers'
manuals which are included in your owner's pouch
(Hull Identification Number is on outside of transom. starboard side, upper corner. This number must he given in all necessary communications.)
HUNTER OWNER INFORMATION CARD
DATE DELIVERED TO OWNER Hull # Owner Street City and State Model Engine Model Name of Boat Dealer Street City and State
Dealer's Signature
Owner's Signature
  
Size
 
To insure your warranty is
Section 15 of the
Serial #
Hull #
Propeller Size
Zip
Zip
Page 2
4110
A copy of Chapman's
Small Boat Handling
as part of the standard equipment. Any questions regarding the meanings of terminology used in this manual may be referenced in your Chapman's.
Piloting, Seamanship and
is provided with your Hunter
Page 3
Limited Warranty
HUNTER MARINE warrants to the first use purchaser for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of sale any part manufactured by HUNTER to be free of defects caused by faulty workmanship or
materials under normal use and service.
During this period HUNTER will repair or replace any part judged to be defective by HUNTER free of charge at its plant or at the option
of HUNTER, by an authorized HUNTER dealer. Transportation costs are the responsibility of the first use purchaser. The labor cost reim-
bursement will be based on a labor allowance schedule established by
HUNTER and where not applicable, on a reasonable number of hours as determined by HUNTER. All repairs and replacements must be ap­proved in advance by an authorized HUNTER representative.
This warranty does not cover:
Paint, window glass, gel coat, upholstery damage, plastic
(1)
finishes, engines, engine parts, propellers, shafts, controls, in­struments and equipment not manufactured by HUNTER. Any warranty made by the manufacturer of such items will be, if possible, passed on to the first purchaser. Boats or parts which have been altered or subjected to
(2)
negligence or misuse. Commercially used boats.
(3)
THIS WARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY AND ALL
OTHER REMEDIES AND EXPRESSED WARRANTIES. ANY IM­PLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE WARRANTIES OF MER­CHANTIBILITY AND FITNESS ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS LIMITED WARRANTY. Some states do not allow limitations
on how long an implied warranty lasts, so that the above limitation may not apply to you.
ANY. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHICH MAY BE INCUR-
RED ARE EXCLUDED AND THE LIABILITY OF HUNTER AND THE PURCHASER'S REMEDY SHALL BE LIMITED TO REPAIR
OR REPLACEMENT OF ANY PART OR PARTY JUDGED DEFEC-
TIVE BY HUNTER. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limita-
tion of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
The purchaser acknowledges that no other representations were
made to him with respect to the quality and function of the boat.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have
other rights which vary from state to state.
This warranty shall not be effective unless the HUNTER warranty card and predelivery service record are completed and returned to HUNTER within ten (10) days after the date of sale to the first use purchaser.
Page 4
HUNTER
TUNING THE B&R RIGGING
NOMENCLATURE DESIGNATION
upper-upper lower upper lower intermediate lower upper intermediate lower diamond upper diamond
•D2 and D3 are cut to a fixed length (no turnbuckles).
Initial tuning is best accomplished
before the mast is stepped.
Support the mast, forward side down, about 1/4 of its length from the end and at its center. Once the mast is supported, make certain that it has no bow in any direciton. Attach a small string from the masthead, in line with the sail track groove, to the base of the mast, stret­ching it as tight as possible. Check to make sure it is a constant distance from the mast along the entire length.
You are now ready to "tune in" the desired mast bend, which is 1% of the mast height above the boom (.01 x mast height above boom). On a 50' mast, this would be .5 feet at the mid point of the mast.
Using the rigging diagram, locate dl and d2. Before tuning, make sure the turnbuckles are adjusted back with equal thread showing. Carefully counting turns, adjust dl port, dl starboard, d2 port and d2 starboard evenly until the desired bend is induced. This is checked by
measuring from the string down to the mast at the center of the mast.
It is Important to make sure the mast
is straight athwartships at this time.
You are now ready to step the mast.
Step the mast with all shrouds loosely
attached.
Adjust the forestay and backstay to
obtain the desired mast rake. The mast should be vertical or raked aft. The more rake, the greater the weather helm. The
 
  
D3* V2 V1 D1 D2*
dl d2
forestay and backstay should have a reasonable amount of tension on them.
Adjust V2 (port and starboard) evenly until they are tight. You should finish with approximately equal amounts of thread showing on each turnbuckle.
Using the jib halyard, check the mast for athwartship plumb. Pull the halyard out to the side of the boat and below the shear. Repeat the procedure on the op­posite side. If you find a big difference (more than 1/2") adjust turnbuckles an equal amount in opposite directions until the mast is straight.
Adjust V1 (port and starboard), using the above procedure.
Repeat for D1 (port and starboard).
Your mast should now have the original "pre-bend" and be straight athwartship.
Check the mast tuning by sailing in medium winds (10-12 knots). Sail on both tacks, sighting up the luff groove to check athwartship straightness. Shrouds should not When mast tuning is complete, install cot­ter pins in all turnbuckles and tape over sharp edges of the cotter pins with chafe tape.
be
loose on the leeward side.
Page 5
Hunter
B & R RIGGING
D3, Upper Upper: Runs from Upper Tang to Upper Spreader Tip
Upper Spreaders
V2. Lower Upper: Runs from Upper Spreader Tip, thru Lower Spreader Tip to Chainplate on Deck
D2, Upper Intermediate: Runs from Tang below Upper Spreaders to Lower Spreader Tips
d2, Upper Diamond: Runs from Upper Spreader Tip to Tang above Lower Spreader
Lower Spreaders
V2, Lower Upper Cont.
VI, Lower Intermediate: Runs from Lower Spreader Tip to Chainplate on Deck
dl, Lower Diamond:
Runs from Lower Spreader Tip to Tang above Bottom End of Mast Extrusion
DI, Lower: Runs from Tang below Lower Spreader to
Chainplate on Deck
Page 6
HUNTER
TUNING THE RIGGING:
MAST TUNING INSTRUCTIONS:
Attach stays and shrouds.
After raising your mast, attach the headstay, backstay, upper shrouds and lower shrouds. Set the headstay tumbuckle at 1/2 open and then tighten backstay turnbuckle to medium tension.
To center mast athwartships, start with only slight tension on the upper and lower shrouds. Check to see if the mast is centered in the boat by measuring from the masthead to the chainplates with a steel tape measure hoisted com­pletely up the main halyard. Adjust the upper shroud until the measurements port and starboard are exactly the same. Now the spar is plumb athwartships, tension both uppers equally, counting turnbckle revolutions as you go. Tighten up­pers until you have approximately 1" of "prebend" fore and aft in the mast. This is achieved because the swept spreaders will push the middle part of the mast forward as you in­crease tension of the uppers.
Now tighten the lower shrouds evenly making sure the mast re­mains straight athwartship. Sight up the luff groove to assure this straightness. Lowers should end up almost as tight as the uppers. Tighten backstay to a taut position. Perhaps 8.10 turns past your original tension.
Check the mast tuning by sailing in medium winds (10.12 knots). Sometimes fine tuning of the upper and lower shrouds Is necessary when the spar is loaded In sailing condi­tions. Sail on both tacks, sighting up the luff groove to check athwartship straightness. Both upper and lower
shrouds should not be loose on the leeward side.
When mast tuning is complete, install cotter pins in all turnbuckles and tape over sharp edges of the cotter pins with chafe tape.
Page 7
Hunter
RIGGING DIAGRAM
.
Backstay Runs from Mast Head to Backstay Chainpiate on Deck
Uppers: continued
Headstay: Runs from Mast Head to Stemhead on Deck
Spreader
Upper
Runs from Tang or T-ball on Top of Mast, thru Spreader Tip to Chainplate on Deck
Lowers. runs from Tang or T-ball below Spreader to Chainplate on Deck
Turnbuckles
Page 8
HUNTER
CARE OF RUNNING RIGGING
To protect your running rigging (sheets, halyards) from damage, wash with cold water (and a mild detergent, if necessary), especially after exposure to salt water. Rinse thoroughly and coil. Hang the tail ends of halyards off the deck to promote drying. Sheets should also be hung to dry.
Inspect all lines periodically for fraying and other damage. Lines showing substantial wear should be replaced.
CARE OF
STANDING RIGGING
The stays and shrouds on your Hunter are highly durable stainless steel to insure years of reliable service. To pro­tect your standing rigging, keep it clean, and, whenever possible, rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Check occasionally for "fishhooks," strands of wire that have broken and curled outward. These can snag sails and inflict painful cuts in bare hands. Broken strands indicate the wire is deteriorating and should be replaced.
Also inspect turnbuckles regularly and replace any missing cotter pins. Occa­sional lubricating improves both the life and the function to turnbuckles.
SHAFT LOG
The stuffing box is held to the shaft log tube by a rubber tube, secured by hose clamps. The clamps should be tight
and no water should leak from this loca­tion.
A slight drip from the stuffing box at
the shaft exit is necessary (4 drops a minute).
To adjust, loosen lock nut, tighten
gland nut 1/4 turn, retighten lock nut. If excessive water flow persists after adjust­ment, replace the packing and then ad­just as above.
ENGINE ALIGNMENT
The engine should be aligned by ex­perienced marine service personnel. Final alignment should be done after laun­ching, with all normal gear aboard. A description of the procedure follows.
The coupling flanges must come together evenly at all points, a feeler gauge is used to check the gap. If adjust­ment Is necessary, the engine is tilted up or down, and/or side to side until the flanges meet equally. Severe vibration will result from misalignment and can cause strut bearing and shaft damage.
Alignment should be checked again
after several weeks of use.
Page 9
HUNTER
DIESEL ENGINE
An engine owners manual is supplied with your boat and should be read thoroughly. The manual contains technical specifications, running instruc­tions and maintenance schedule on lubricants and fluids. For long engine life, follow routine maintenance schedules.
You should check engine oil, transmission fluid, and coolant levels. Water, rust, scale and dirt will cause serious damage to the injectors on diesel engines. You should check your filters frequently and change when necessary.
If you start your engine, run it a minimum of 15 minutes to bring it up to operating temperature. This insures that any condensation is evaporated. Your engine should "run-out", at 3/4 throttle, at least once a month to clean out carbon build up and moisture.
STARTING:
1.
Visually check engine compartment to see that the throttle linkage, shifting controls, electrical connections and fuel lines are properly secured.
2.
BEFORE EACH START check oil
in engine and transmission.
3.
Insure that engine shut-off cable is
properly secured and operating.
4.
Place the shift lever (Fig. la) in the
neutral position.
5.
Move the throttle or "fuel" lever (Fig. lb) forward to approximately the half speed position.
6.
Insert the starter key and turn to the "ON" position.
7.
Press the starter button and hold until engine starts, then release The buzzer and/or light should then go off.
8.
Back the throttle off to an idle position (700-800 rpm) allow cold engine to warm up a minimum of 5 minutes.
9.
Check to see that the lube oil pressure warning light and the charge lamp go off.
If any of the warning lamps do not go off above 1000 rpm, the engine is malfunctioning and should be stopped immediately. Consult your nearest engine dealer.
NOTE: To stop engine at any time, pull "fuel" lever all the way aft (Fig. lb). Before stopping, however, it is a good idea to idle the engine in neutral for about 5 minutes, then race it in the full throttle position for a moment, then return to idle and stop the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT TURN SAFETY MAIN SWITCH TO "OFF' WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING. THIS CAN SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE ALTER­NATOR.
MOTORING:
When engine is warm, you may move the "shift" lever either forward to go ahead or aft to move in reverse (Fig.
la).
CAUTION: your rigging will conduct electricity. Always check for overhead high tension wires before proceeding. Once clear, you may increase your speed in a reasonable and safe manner as desired.
IMPORTANT: do not shift from for­ward to reverse or back without first lowering engine rpm.
Page 10
HUNTER
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Your Hunter is fitted with an electrical system designed for both AC (AC not available on the 25.5 and smaller)and DC. While in port, you can operate any tool, appliance or other device designed to function on regular house current (120V) simply by plugging your dockside power cord into a convenient outlet on shore, and turning your AC main breaker on. (DO NOT ALLOW YOUR DOCKSIDE POWER CORD TO COME IN CON­TACT WITH THE WATER. NEVER OPERATE ANY AC POWER TOOL OR OTHER ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT WHILE YOU OR THE DEVICE ARE IN CONTACT WITH THE WATER.)
When leaving port, disconnect the dockside power cord and turn the main DC breaker on. This allows you to use the ship's lights and other equipment designed to operate on direct current. Keep in mind that your DC power source is a 12-volt battery and, just as with your automobile, it must be charged regularly by operating the engine. Unless a state of charge is maintained, there may not be enough power to operate the starter motor. Dangerous situations can result if the engine cannot be started when need­ed.
Make a regular visual check of bat­tery(ies) to insure proper water level and to inspect terminals for signs of corrosion.
If your boat sits for long periods without
use, it is often a good idea to remove the battery(ies) and attach them to a trickle charger to keep them fully charged and ready for use.
REEFING THE
MAINSAIL
Your Hunter is equipped with an easy-to-use jiffy reefing system. To reef the main:
1. Ease the main sheet (boom yang if in­stalled) — make sure topping lift is secured In position.
Lower main halyard so that tack reef
2. cringle (1) can be placed on gooseneck reef hook (2). Re­tension main halyard when hooked in place.
Clew reef line (3) must now be ten-
3. sioned so that clew reef cringle is brought down snugly against boom.
Re-adjust mainsheet and boom yang.
4. The reefed folds of cloth can be rolled
5.
up and secured with short lines through the reef points and around the folds and boom.
IMPORTANT: be sure to untie these first when shaking out the reef.
To unreef, reverse the process.
6.
OPERATION OF THE WATER SYSTEM
The water heater operates either on
120 volts AC or when the engine is run­ning. To obtain hot water from the engine it must run a minimum of one half hour.
CAUTION: do not turn the water heater on until you are sure the tank is filled with water. To do so will destroy the
heating element, which would not be
covered by the warranty.
Pressure water pumps are the de­mand type. Once the circuit breaker switch is on, opening the faucet will pro­duce water flow.
NOTE: intermittent operation of the fresh water pump while all faucets are
Page 11
HUNTER
closed usually indicates a leak somewhere in the lines. Trace the lines to locate the leak and correct.
STOVE OPERATION
Follow the operating instructions sup­plied with the unit installed with your boat.
TOILET
IMPORTANT: When not in use, lever
must be left in the dry position to prevent
flooding.
Before using, place the lever in the
wet position and pump slowly to part­ly fill and wet the inside of the bowl. Return to dry position.
After using: return the lever to the wet position for flushing and pump until the bowl is thoroughly cleaned. Continue
with several more full strokes to flush
discharge lines. Return lever to the dry position and pump slowly until bowl is empty.
CLEANING OF FIBERGLASS SURFACES
Fiberglass surfaces should be cleaned regularly. Normal accumulations of sur­face dirt can be removed simply by occa­sional rinsings with water. If your boat is operated in saltwater, more frequent rins­ing will be required. To remove stubborn dirt, grease or oil, use a mild detergent and a soft brush. Rinse with clean fresh water.
It is also a good idea to wax the fiberglass once or twice a year to maintain a deep, glossy appearance. Your local marine supply should be able to supply an appropriate wax.
FIBERGLASS REPAIRS
Your Hunter dealer can supply you with the proper gel coat to be used in repairing any hairline cracks or chips.
1.
Using a mild detergent solution, clean repair area completely of wax, dirt or oil and dry completely.
2.
To patch "spiderweb" or hairline cracks, begin by widening the crack so that is will hold putty. This is most easily done with an electric drill or router equip­ped with a V-shaped grinding bit. Also, cut a quarter inch or so beyond the end of each crack to relieve any stress.
3.
Brush away all dust from the crack.
4.
Mix gel coat with filler powder to form a creamy consistency, mix more than enough patching compound to do the job and stir to a smooth blend. Temperatures should be in the 60's or above, or a heat lamp should be used
5.
Using a putty knife, work the mix­ture firmly into the crack to eliminate air bubbles. Leave an
1/16th of an Inch above the surface of
the crack to allow for shrinkage.
excess
of about
Page 12
HUNTER
6.
Since gel coat will only dry fully in the absence of air, cover the area with a sheet of cellophane or plastic food wrap and tape edges to make the covering air­tight.
7.
When the putty has reached a tacky consistency, peel back the seal and carefully slice away the excess filler that protrudes above the surface.
8.
Replace seal and allow putty to harden. Once hardened, remove seal and sand flush using 320 wet or dry sandpaper and follow with 600 wet sand­paper. Buff with fine buffing compound to desired luster and finish by applying a coat of wax.
SAIL CARE AND STORAGE
Your Hunter comes with Dacron
mainsail and 110% genoa jib. To extend
the life of your sails and maintain their best performance:
1.
Never use them in wind ranges
that exceed their capabilities.
2.
Never let them luff for extended
periods of time.
3.
Rinse your sails in fresh water whenever possible if you sail in saltwater. Tub wash them every few seasons to keep them bright and attractive. DO NOT MACHINE WASH. Use a mild detergent in warm water, and REMOVE ALL DETERGENTS COMPLETELY WITH A THOROUGH RINSING.
For oil and grease stains, use com­mercial cleaning solvents. Should a yellow stain develop, bleach with oxalic acid and rinse thoroughly. Rust stains should be soaked in a warm solution of two parts hydrochloric acid per 100 parts water, rinsing thoroughly.
After rinsing your sails, spread them and allow to dry thoroughly before bag­ging. This is a good time to Inspect them for minor damage. First spread sail on flat
surface, then fold In a smooth accordian
pleat from the foot to the head. Next roll the folded sail from the clew to the tack and slide carefully into bag.
At the end of each season, it is good practice to have your local sailmaker in­spect your sails for signs of wear and tear.
TEAK CARE
Teak wood is an extremely durable wood with a high oil content. To maintain that durable quality it should be given a coat of teak oil once a year or more in northern climates and twice a year or more in tropical climates.
Teak can be allowed to weather out, as seen on many boats, but this will even­tually lead to cracking and splitting.
If you wish to maintain your teak with varnish, resin or urethane; a sealer should be applied after cleaning and sanding. Complete finish procedures can be obtained from your marine finish pro­ducts manufacturer or supplier.
SERVICING OF
PUMPS
All pumps should be checked fre­quently to Insure proper operation. THIS IS AN ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT REGULAR MAINTENANCE ITEM SINCE FUNCTIONING OF A PUMP COULD SAVE YOUR VESSEL FROM SERIOUS DAMAGE AT SOME FUTURE TIME.
Inspect all hoses for chafing and dry rot. See that hose clamps are tight.
Check to see that pump impeller area is clean and free from obstructions.
Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion.
Make sure float switch moves freely and is making an electrical connection.
Page 13
HUNTEI4
WINCH
MAINTENANCE
Follow the maintenance instructions
prescribed by the winch manufacturer.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE OF HARDWARE
Check all fittings regularly to be sure
screws are tight. Occasionally lubricate all moving parts on such fittings as blocks, turnbuckles and cam cleats, as well as the locking pins of snatch blocks, track slides, spinnaker poles, etc.
Inspect chocks, cleats and fairleads for roughness and smooth with finegrained emery paper if necessary.
Also, replace any missing or damaged cotter pins in turnbuckles and shackles, and either tape them or use protective covers manufactured for that purpose.
STORING YOUR BOAT FOR WINTER
IMPORTANT: Winter storage should
be on the cradle supplied with the boat. The cradle should be blocked level and
square to prevent twisting the boat. Damage to your boat, including engine misalignment caused by twisting, is r.ot covered by the warranty.
CUSHIONS
Cushions
stored at home if possible. If not, prop them vertically to promote airflow around each cushion.
should be removed and
HATCHES
Hatches and floorboards should be left open a crack to provide ventilation for the whole boat. However, it is pru­dent to loosely cover any open hatches with a tarp or plastic sheeting.
WATER SYSTEM
Open
a faucet
empty the tank. Then add approximately 2 gallons of to the tank and repeat the pumping out process.
A second method is to disconnect the hoses at the pump, allowing them to drain. Find the lowest point in the system and disconnect the fiting. Open all faucets to allow the lihes to drain. If possible, use a short piece of hose on the faucet to blow through the lines to clear all water.
and allow the pump to
non-toxic
anti-freeze solution
HOT WATER HEATER
Open valve and drain fully. Leave valve open during lay-up-time.
TOILET AND HOLDING TANK
Drain and flush toilet. Using auto­motive anti-freeze (ethyleneglycol) in a 50/50 mixture with water, pump through toilet and into holding tank.
SAILS
Sails and synthetic lines should be washed and dried thoroughly. Sails should be properly folded and stowed in a dry, well ventilated place. Many sailboat owners send their sails back to the sail manufacturer at the end of each season. The sallmaker will check the stitching and sailcloth for wear and store the sails until the start of the next season.
ENGINE
1.
Drain the cooling water completely out of the engine and flush the line thoroughly with fresh water. Don't use high pressure through the line.
2.
Remove the fuel completely from all fuel lines.
3.
Disconnect the main battery cables from the battery terminals.
Page 14
HUNTER
4. To prevent corrosion inside the cylinders, pour a little lubricating oil into the suction pipe while turning the engine. Enough oil to reach the intake/exhaust valves is sufficient.
5.Put the piston at top dead center of compression stroke so that the intake/ex­haust valves are completely closed.
6.
Apply a thin anti-corrosion treat­ment to the plating and exposed painted surfaces.
7.
The engine should be in a well­ventilated area, and protected from any kind of dampness.
Put a dust cover over the engine.
8.
9.
Check your operation manual for engine diagram and for
TURERS RECOMMENDED WINTERIZING PROCEDURES.
MANUFAC-
Page 15
Hunter
28.5
SPECIFICATIONS
L. O. A. L. W. L. Beam Displacement:
Deep
Shoal
Draft:
Deep
Shoal
Ballast:
Deep Shoal
Mast height
From Waterline Headroom Sail area E (Mainsail foot)
J
(Foretriangle base) P (Mainsail huff) I (Foretriangle ht.)
28'5" 23'9" 10'6"
7000 lbs. 7100 lbs.
5'2"
4'0"
3000 lbs. 3100 lbs.
41'3"
6'2"
398 sq.ft.
10' 10"
12' 1" 31'9" 37'4"
 
8.66m.
7.24m.
3.20m.
3175.1 kg.
3220.5 kg.
1.57m.
1.21m.
1360.7 kg.
1406.1 kg
12.57m.
1.87m.
36.97m.
3.30m.
3.68m.
9.68m.
11.38m.
Page 16
Hunter 283
SAIL PLAN & SPECIFICATIONS
continued
Page 17
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CONSTRUCTION DETAIL
28.5
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