Hudson Hornet 1955, 1955 Wasp, 1955 Rambler Technical & Service Manual

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ENGINE SECTION

(6 Cylinder)

ENGINE IDENTIFICATION

The engine number is located on the upper left hand forward portion of the cylinder block on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series. The engine number on the "Rambler" Series is located on a machined surface on the right side of the engine block just above the exhaust pipe.

Letter Identification, Size of Bore, Main Bearings and

Connecting Rod Bearings

In the machining of cylinder .blocks and crankshafts, it is sometimes necessary to machine the cylinder bores to .010" oversize, and the crankshaft main bearing journals or crank pins to 0.10" undersize. These engines are marked with a three letter code. The code is stamped adjacent to the engine number. The letters are decoded as follows:

First Letter Size of Bore Second Letter Size of Main Bearings Third Letter Size of Connecting Rod Bearings Letter "A" Standard Letter "B" .010" Undersize Letter "C" .010" Oversize

Engines (after Number F-2814 or M-3616) that are not marked are standard in all respects.

CYLINDER HEAD AND GASKET

Whenever a cylinder head is removed, inspect the mating surfaces on the cylinder head and block for cleanliness and squareness with a straight edge. Coat the gasket with a non-hardening gasket paste and locate the gasket on the cylinder block. A pair of guide pins, size 3" x 1/2"-13 "Hornet" and 3" x 7/16"-14 "Wasp" Series, will aid in the installation of the cylinder head (Fig. 1).

Series, and the studs on "Rambler" Series, as they connect to water passages in the cylinder head. Tighten the cap screws or stud nuts with a torque wrench in a uniform manner, following the sequence shown in Figures 2 and 3. The "Hornet" Series, with aluminum cylinder head, cap screws should be drawn up to 75-80 foot pounds of torque with engine at room temperature. The "Wasp" Series, with cast iron cylinder head, cap screws are drawn up to 60-65 foot pounds of torque with engine at normal operating temperature. With aluminum cylinder head, tighten to 60-65 foot pounds of torque with engine at room temperature. Tighten the "Rambler" Series stud nuts to 57-60 foot pounds torque with engine at normal operating temperature.

FIGURE 2—"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence

FIGURE 3—Cylinder Head Tightening

Sequence "Rambler" Series

VALVES

Valve Springs

Whenever valve springs are removed, they should be tested according to the specifications listed below, using a valve spring tester (Fig.

4). Any spring not within the specifications should be replaced.

FIGURE 1—Guide Pin Installation to Install

Cylinder Head

Be sure that a sealing compound is used on all cylinder head cap screws, "Hornet" and "Wasp"

Valve Spring Specifications

Series "Hornet" "Wasp" "Rambler"

Valve Spring Approximate Free Height 2-1/2" 2-3/16" 2-5/32"

Valve Spring Pressure Valve Closed 73-81 Lbs. 40-48 Lbs. 37-41 Lbs. @ 2-1/2" @ 1-61/64" @ 1-3/4" Valve Open 153-165 Lbs. 16-124 Lbs. 75-82 Lbs. @ 1-27/32" @ 1-19/32" @ 1-7/16"

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1. Torque Wrench

2. Valve Spring Tester

3. Valve Spring

ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

engine supports and loosening the rear supports. The engine may then be moved slightly upward and to the left. To assist in the installation of valve locks, Tool J-1953 can be used on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series (Fig. 6).

FIGURE 6—Valve Lock Installation "Hornet"

and "Wasp" Series

FIGURE 4—Valve Spring Tester

Valve Spring Position

The valve springs are installed with the closed coils toward the head of the valve as shown in Figure 5.

1. Correct Position, Closed Coils Up

2. Arrow Points to the Valve Seat

3. Incorrect Position, Closed Coils Down

FIGURE 5—Correct Position of the

Valve Spring

Valve Spring and Valve Removal

The valve springs and valves can be removed after the manifolds (where necessary), cylinder heads, and valve covers are removed.

"Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Twin-H-Power

To remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as an assembly with the carburetors, required additional clearance can be obtained by removing the 5/8" nut from the top of the front

"Wasp" Hi-Torque 6

Clearance permits removal of the manifolds without movement of the engine.

"Rambler" Series

Exhaust pipe mounted to side of engine need not be removed. Valve Spring Compressor J-4487 ("C" Type) will facilitate valve spring removal and replacement on the "Rambler" Series.

Valve Adjustment After removing the intake and exhaust manifold

assembly and valve covers, the valves on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" can be adjusted to a cold setting clearance of .010" "go"-.011" "no-go" on the intake valves and .014" "go"-.015" "no-go" on the exhaust valves. The "Rambler" valves are adjusted without removal of the exhaust pipe to a cold setting clearance of .016" intake valves and .018" exhaust valves.

Valve Refacing

It is important when refacing valves that just enough material be ground off to clean up the face. The valve should be replaced if there is less than approximately 1/16" material, "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series and 1/3 2" "Rambler" Series, left on outer diameter of the valve head known as the valve head margin. A heavy margin aids in the dissipation of heat and helps avoid valve warpage (Fig. 7). The "Hornet" Series intake and exhaust valve seat and face angle is ground to 45°.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

1. Correct Valve Refacing

2. Incorrect Valve Refacing

FIGURE 7—Correct Valve Refacing

1. Valve Guide Removing Tool J-2814

The "Wasp" Series intake valve seat and face angle is 45°. The exhaust valve seat and face angle is 46°. The "Rambler" Series intake and exhaust valve face angle is 44°. The valve seat angle is 45°.

Valve Guides

"Hornet" Series valve stem to guide clearance is .0015"-.003" Intake, .002"-.004" Exhaust; "Wasp" Series .001"-.003" Intake, .002".004" Exhaust; "Rambler" Series .0018".0033" Intake and Exhaust. Replace the guides when these clearances are exceeded. Check valve stem diameters to determine whether or not proper stem to guide clearance exists. Stem diameters are:

Intake Exhaust

“Hornet” .3412”-.3422” .3402”-.3412”

The valve guides can be removed through the valve seat opening with a puller. "Rambler" Series Tool J-2814, illustrated in Figure 8, can also be adapted to the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series by using the spacers from their respective guide installing tools.

The "Hornet" Series valve guides are installed with Tool J-883-A (Pilot J-883-8 or 9) to insure that the guides are driven to the correct depth of 1-3/32 for the exhaust guides, 1-7/16" intake guides, from the top of the guide to the top face of the block (Fig. 9).

“Wasp”

.3412”-.3422”

3402”-.3412”

“Rambler” .3407”-.3412 .3407”-.3412

FIGURE 8—Removing Valve Guides

"Rambler" Series

FIGURE 9—Installing Valve Guides

The "Wasp" Series valve guides are installed with Tool J-883-A (Pilot J-883-101. The guides are inserted to a depth of 1%9" from the top of the guide to the top face of block. Use Tool J-1429-A to install the "Rambler"

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ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

Series valve guides. Drive the guides flush with the opening of the guide bore in the block.

Valve Timing

Valve timing is determined by the relation between the sprocket on the camshaft and the sprocket on the crankshaft.

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

When installing timing assembly, line up the marked teeth on the sprockets with the marked links on the chain. Correct installation will result in locating 7 links or 14 pins between marks on sprockets as illustrated in Figure 10.

mark on the inner timing mark radius (5.06" flywheel radius). This distance should be 21/4" plus or minus 1/s" for valve lash errors. One tooth off timing on crankshaft sprocket will affect this dimension by plus or minus 1-31/64". One tooth off on camshaft sprocket will affect this dimension by plus or minus 13/16".

1. Marked Tooth on Camshaft Sprocket

2. Marked Tooth on Crankshaft Sprocket

3. 7 Links or 14 Pins

FIGURE 10—Correct Timing Chain Installation

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

"Hornet" Series

Valve timing can be checked without dismantling the engine. With the engine at room temperature, locate No. 1 piston at U.D.C. exhaust stroke. Install a dial indicator on No. 1 cylinder exhaust valve head through spark plug opening. Crank engine slowly until dial indicator indicates valve has seated. Place a chalk mark on the flywheel, through the ignition timing mark opening in line with the lower ledge of opening. Crank engine backwards to expose both the chalk mark and U.D.C. mark on flywheel. (This is only possible if timing is correct or early.) With a pair of dividers, measure the distance between the U.D.C. mark and chalk

FIGURE 11—Valve Timing Diagram

"Hornet" Series

"Wasp" Series

To check valve timing on the "Wasp" Series, crank engine until No. 1 piston is at T.D.C. exhaust stroke. Install a dial indicator on No. 1 cylinder exhaust valve head through spark plug opening. Crank engine slowly until dial indicator indicates valve has seated. Place a chalk mark on outer edge of vibration damper below pointer. Measure distance from chalk mark back to U.D.C. No. 1 mark with steel scale located around circumference of damper. This distance should be approximately 13/4" (with cold valve lash .015") plus or minus 1/8" for valve lash errors. If the camshaft sprocket is off one tooth, it will affect the dimension by plus or minus 1%2". If the crankshaft sprocket is off one tooth, the dimension will be affected by plus or minus 13/16".

"Rambler" Series

When installing timing assembly, line up the marked teeth adjacent to each other on a center line drawn through the center of the camshaft and the center of the crankshaft (Fig. 13). Before installing the timing chain cover, check the correct installation of the timing chain; locate the marked tooth of the camshaft sprocket

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

1. Marked Tooth on the Camshaft Sprocket

2. Marked Tooth on the Crankshaft Sprocket

3. 91/2 Links or 19 Pins

FIGURE 12—Valve Timing Diagram

"Wasp" Series

FIGURE 14—Correct Timing Chain Installation

"Rambler" Series

FIGURE 13—Place Marked Teeth on Center

Line When Installing Sprockets and Chain "Rambler" Series

at approximately the one o'clock position. This should place the marked tooth of the crankshaft sprocket where it begins to mesh with the chain (Fig. 14). Count the number of links between the marked teeth of both sprockets. There should be 91/2 links or 19 pins. Valve timing may be inspected by locating the No. 6 piston on T.D.C. in firing position. Then set valves on the No. 1 cylinder to .003" clearance. Slowly rock the crankshaft back and forth.

If the timing is set properly, the exhaust valve should open before the D.C. mark on the vibration damper lines up with the pointer. Note this distance. The intake valve should open an equal distance after the D.C. mark passes the pointer.

FIGURE 15—Valve Timing Diagram

"Rambler" Series

TIMING CHAIN COVER "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The timing chain cover oil seal is a leather chevron design, spring loaded, to contact the seal surface of the vibration damper under

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ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

pressure. Tool J-2776 is used to remove and install the timing chain cover oil seal (Figs. 16 and

17):

lip of leather is in good condition and

not curled over.

FIGURE 16—Removing Timing Chain Cover

Oil Seal—"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Insert the collar so that slot in collar engages depression in cover. Support the cover when driving out the seal with the straight side of the driver.

NOTE: The tool head is reversible on the

handle. The side with the tapered pilot is used for installing the seal and the large size for removal. Before installing a new oil seal, apply a coating of white or red lead in the well of the timing cover. Install the oil seal in cover using tapered pilot side of tool (Fig.

17). With J-872-5, handle screw in opposite end of tool, and with an arbor press or soft hammer, press the seal tightly into place. After seal is installed, recheck to make certain that the

FIGURE 17— Installing Timing Chain Cover Oil

Seal—"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

"Rambler" Series

The timing chain cover is provided with a felt seal to prevent the leakage of oil around the front crankshaft pulley hub. To prevent damage to this seal, it is important that the cover be properly aligned when installing the vibration damper. This is accomplished by leaving the cover to block screws loose until the vibration damper has been partially installed. Then tighten the cover screws. At time of installation of a new seal, the rubber section of the seal must be installed to the rear of the cover. The oil seal installed in the timing chain cover is replaced by driving the old one out from the rear and installing a new seal and retainer from the front. An oil slinger is used inside the timing chain cover.

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The slinger is held in place by the crankshaft sprocket and vibration damper.

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS

The camshaft is supported by four steel shelled, babbitt lined bearings which have been pressed into the block and line reamed. The camshaft bearings are step bored being larger at the front bearing than at the rear to permit easy removal and installation of the camshaft. All camshaft bearings are lubricated under pressure through drilled passages in the cylinder block. To simplify camshaft removal on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series, remove the radiator core and grille assemblies and intake exhaust manifold. Then raise the front of the engine slightly. On cars equipped with air conditioning and all "Rambler" Series, the engine should be removed for camshaft removal. The engines should also be removed from the car if camshaft bearing replacement and/or line reaming is contemplated.

Camshaft Bearing Oil Clearances

"Hornet" .0015"-.002" "Wasp" .0005"-.0015" "Rambler" .001"-.002"

FIGURE 19—Removing Vibration Damper

Assembly "Wasp" Series

Locate engine with timing assembly lined up as shown in Figure 10. Remove timing chain cover and cut safety wire from camshaft sprocket mounting bolts. Remove camshaft sprocket and chain assembly. Use Puller 1-471 to remove crankshaft sprocket (Fig. 20) if a gear change is to be made.

Camshaft Removal "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Remove the radiator, radiator grille, fan assembly, and intake and exhaust manifolds. Pull the vibration damper pulley assembly after removing retaining cap screw. Use Puller J-676-C for the "Hornet" Series (Fig.

18) and J-5371 "Wasp" Series (Fig. 19).

FIGURE 20—Removing Crankshaft Sprocket

Remove valve side covers and raise valves and springs sufficiently to install tools 1-1612-3-A tappet holders (Fig. 21). Remove oil spout on the "Wasp" Series and spout and chain silencer on the "Hornet" Series. Remove camshaft thrust plate. Remove camshaft. To reinstall the crankshaft sprocket, if removed, use Driver J-5369 (Fig. 22):

FIGURE 18—Removing Vibration Damper

Assembly "Hornet" Series

"Rambler" Series

Remove engine from the car. Remove fan assembly and cylinder head. Remove valve tappet covers and vibration damper. Remove valves and valve springs;

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ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

End Play: .003"-.005" "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series .004"-.006" "Rambler" Series

The camshaft end play can be checked with a feeler gauge between the rear of the camshaft sprocket and the front surface of the camshaft thrust plate. A dial indicator can also be used for checking the end play of the camshaft.

PISTONS

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The pistons are aluminum alloy cam ground with taper ground skirt. Ring grooves are provided for four piston rings, two compression and two oil control rings. One oil control ring is installed below the piston pin while two compression rings and one oil control ring are above the pin. The rings are positioned and retained in a limited working area by pins installed in the piston ring grooves.

"Rambler" Series

FIGURE 21—Tool J-1612-3A Tappet Holders

FIGURE 22—Installing Crankshaft Sprocket

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

retain tappets with wire. Remove timing chain cover and oil slinger. Position engine with timing marks on a center line (Fig. 12). Remove camshaft sprocket retaining screw. Remove timing chain and sprockets. The sprockets can be pryed off of the shafts. Remove camshaft thrust plate and camshaft.

Camshaft End Play

The camshaft end play is obtained between the front surface on the camshaft bearing and the camshaft thrust plate. When excessive end play occurs, a change in thrust plate will restore the correct end play.

The pistons are aluminum alloy cam ground having a larger diameter measured at right angles to the piston pin hole and taper ground skirt. A steel strut for structural strength and to control expansion is located in the pin boss structure. Ring grooves are provided for four rings above the piston pin, two compression and two oil control rings. The piston pin is off-set from the center axis toward the thrust side of the cylinder. To insure proper installation of off-set pin, a notch is cast in top of piston. Piston must be installed in the engine with the notch toward the front.

Piston Removal

Piston removal is accomplished from the top of the engine. However, before removing the pistons, the ring ridges in the cylinder bores must be removed. Failure to remove the ridge at the top of the cylinder bore will very often result in piston ring breakage and damage to the piston groove land. If cylinder taper exceeds .009", bore must be trued up and oversize pistons and rings used.

Fitting Pistons "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The pistons are fitted by the use of a spring scale and feeler tape for a clearance of .002" under a three to four pound pull. (Parts must be clean, dry, and at room temperature.)

"Rambler" Series The piston is fitted so that each piston will support its own weight in any portion of the cylinder with all parts clean and dry. Piston

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

to bore clearance is .0006" to .0012".

PISTON RINGS

The pistons are fitted with four piston rings, two compression and two oil control rings. A chrome plated upper ring is used to resist corrosion. Before assembling the rings to the piston, carbon must be cleaned from all ring grooves. The oil drain holes in the oil ring grooves must be cleared. Care must be exercised not to remove metal from the grooves, since that will change their depth, nor from the lands, since that will change the ring groove clearance and destroy ring to land seating.

Checking Ring Groove Clearance

Side groove clearance is measured with a feeler gauge. Roll the rings around the piston in the grooves in which they operate. Check for freedom all the way around. The groove clearances are listed below by ring number with the top ring as number one.

Ring Number 1 2 3 4 "Hornet" .002"-.004" .002"-.004" ,001"-.003" ..001"-.003" "Wasp" .002"-.004" .002"-.004" .001"-.003" .001"-.003" "Rambler" .002"-.004" .002"-.004" .002"-.004" .002"-.004"

Rings must be installed on pistons with a ring installation tool to prevent distortion and ring breakage. Detailed instructions in service ring packages must be followed.

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Four piston rings are used; three rings are located above the piston pin and one below the pin. The rings are pinned in place to prevent movement (Figs. 23 and 24).

Checking Ring Gap Clearance

Piston ring gap clearance is measured in the bottom of the cylinder near the end of the ring travel area. To square the ring in the bore for checking gap clearance, place the ring in the bore. Then, with an inverted piston, push the ring down near the lower end of the ring travel area. When other than standard ring sizes are used, rings should be individually fitted to their respective bores. The ring gaps for fitting rings are listed below:

"Hornet" .006"-.014" "Wasp" .004"-.009" "Rambler" .010"-.020"

Piston Ring Installation

Removal of glaze from the cylinder wall for quicker ring seating can be accomplished by various methods. If the expanding flexible type hone is used, do not use more than 10 strokes (each stroke down and return) to recondition a cylinder wall. Successful ring installation depends upon cleanliness in handling parts and while honing the cylinder walls. The engine bearings and lubrication system must be protected from abrasives. Rigid type hones are not to be used to remove cylinder glaze as there is always a slight amount of taper in cylinder walls after the engine has been in service.

FIGURE 23—Ring Arrangement

"Hornet" Series

The rings are notched on the inner diameter at the gap slot. The width of the notch is .125". Approximately .075" is at one end of the ring and .050" at the other end. This off-setting of the notch enables a single pin pressed in from the top of the piston to locate the three top rings without having the gaps on adjacent rings aligned (Fig. 25).

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ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

CAUTION: Because of the backlash clearance requirement, it is suggested that no ring be filed to fit a bore size smaller than the ring size.

"Rambler" Series

The two compression and two oil control rings are located above the piston pin. The compression rings are of the "twist" design with an inner groove installed to the top of piston. A conventional oil control ring is used in the third ring groove.

FIGURE 24—Ring Arrangement

"Wasp" Series

FIGURE 25—Pinning of Piston Rings "Hornet"

and "Wasp" Series

The end gap is equal to the backlash of the ring notch on pin. Therefore, if the ends of a ring are filed to obtain the correct ring end gap, the notch has to be filed enough to provide the backlash in equal amount.

1. Inner Groove Up

2. Oil Control Ring

3. Oil Control Ring "U" Flex

FIGURE 26—Ring Installation

"Rambler" Series

The "U" flex oil control ring used in the lower oil control ring groove, as original equipment, differs from all other rings. The normal free diameter of this ring is 1/8" to 3/1_6" larger than the bore diameter in which it is installed. Installation is outlined in Figures 27, 28, 29, and 30. Before installing piston in engine, arrange ring gaps 180° apart, being sure no gap is over the piston pin.

Service Ring Sets

For service ring replacement, follow detailed instructions enclosed in the ring package.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 27—Step 1—Place "U" Flex Ring in

Bottom of Oil Ring Groove. Lubricate all

Rings and Piston Skirt with a Light

Grade Engine Oil. Butt Ends of

"U" Flex Ring Together

FIGURE 28—Step 2—Keep Ends of "U" Flex

Ring Butted Together and Place Compressor

Over Piston, Either a Constricting Band

or Split Sleeve Type Compressor

can be Used

FIGURE 30—Step 4—Make Sure Compressor

Rests Squarely on Top of Block, and

Push or Tap Piston into Cylinder

CAUTION: If Piston Does not Enter Cylinder without Excessive Force, Remove Piston Assembly and Examine Rings for Ring Interference.

PISTON PINS

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Full floating type piston pins are used. They are retained in the piston by two circular lock rings, one at each end of the pin. The piston pin fit in the connecting rod bushing is a hand push fit at room temperature (70°). The piston pin fit in the piston is a hand push fit in a heated piston. Heat piston in water or electric furnace to 200°F. The piston pin bushings are steel back bronze. To remove and replace, press out old bushing, using burnisher block tool J-2950 and remover J-2948 for the "Hornet" Series, and J-2951 and J-2948 "Wasp" Series. Install new bushing with same tools making sure oil holes in bushing and rod are in alignment. Burnish bushing with block J-2950 and burnisher J-2791 "Hornet" Series, and J-2951 and J-2949 "Wasp" Series (Fig. 31). The bushing should be reamed .0003" larger than its matching pin diameter. Check the fit by holding the piston with the connecting rod in a horizontal position. The rod should just turn on the pin under its own weight.

FIGURE 29—Step 3—Tighten Ring Compressor

if Band Type is Used. If Sleeve Type is Used,

BE SURE THAT IT IS NOT PULLED

HIGHER THAN THE TOP OF THE

PISTON. However, it Should be

Drawn up High Enough to

Cover all of the Rings

The standard piston pin dimensions are:

“Hornet” “Wasp”

Length

2.942" — 2.932"

2.4375" + or —.005"

Diameter

.9687" — .96845"

.7499" + .000"

—.00025"

"Rambler" Series

The piston pin is locked in place in the connecting rod by means of a locking bolt (Fig. 32). To fit the piston pin, hone the connecting rod to fit the pin. Then hone the piston to allow a thumb press

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ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

Tighten piston pin clamp screw to 18-22 foot pounds torque.

CONNECTING RODS

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The connecting rods have oil squirt holes to provide cylinder wall lubrication, at low and idle speed, to the thrust side of the cylinders. An oil hole on the top of the rod supplies lubrication to the piston pins. When installing connecting rods, the squirt hole is toward the camshaft side (thrust side) of the engine. The cylinder location numbers are stamped on the connecting rod and caps during initial assembly.

"Rambler" Series

Two oil squirt holes are provided in the upper rod cap section for cylinder wall lubrication at low and idle speeds. The notch on the top perimeter of the piston and the identification boss on the connecting rod (Fig. 33) must be installed to the front of the engine.

FIGURE 31—Burnishing Connecting Rod

Bushing "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

1. Locking Bolt and Notch

2. Piston Pin

FIGURE 32— Piston Pin "Rambler" Series

fit or .0002" maximum loose fit in piston at room temperature (70°F.). The standard piston pin dimensions are: Length 2.755", Diameter .8598"-.8595".

1. Identification Boss

FIGURE 33—Connecting Rod Identification

Boss "Rambler" Series

The connecting rods are stamped by cylinder number location during initial assembly. Always assemble the rods and caps with the cylinder location numbers on the same side.

Connecting Rod Alignment

Whenever new rings are installed or new piston pins are replaced, it is necessary to align the connecting rods and pistons, as assemblies, to insure true operation in the cylinder bore. Misaligned rods will cause uneven piston and ring wear which will result in oil consumption and noise. The connecting rod should be inspected for a twisted or bent condition (Figs. 34 and 35). Always bend beyond the true alignment position and then bend back to straighten so the stresses and strains in the rod material are relieved. If the stresses are not relieved, the rod will not hold its alignment after installation in the engine.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 34—Checking Connecting Rod Alignment for Twist

Connecting Rod Bearings

The connecting rod bearings are the steel backed babbitt lined precision type. They are installed as pairs in connecting rod and cap.

CAUTION: Never file a connecting rod or

cap to adjust bearing clearance.

If the bearing clearance is excessive, the correct connecting rod undersize bearing set must be installed. The correct connecting rod bearing clearance is .0005" to .0015" "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series and .001" to .0015" on "Rambler" Series. To determine the amount of bearing clearance, use a piece of Plastigage in the bearing cap as shown in Figure 36. Then tighten the cap to the torque specification to compress the gauge. Remove the bearing cap and calibrate the width of the Plastigage with the scale furnished as shown in Figure 37.

Connecting Rod Bearing Caps

FIGURE 35—Checking Connecting Rod

Alignment for Bend

It is important that the connecting rod cap bolt nuts be drawn up to the correct tension. Tighten to:

"Hornet" 40-45 Ft. Lbs. "Wasp" 40-50 Ft. Lbs. "Rambler" 27-30 Ft. Lbs.

FIGURE 36—Plastigage in Place in the

Bearing Cap

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ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

FIGURE 37—Measure the Width of the

Plastigage Scale

Reduce torque 15 per cent if threads are oily The notches on the lower and upper rod caps should be to the same side of engine with the squirt hole on upper cap to camshaft side of engine on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series. The cylinder numbers are to the camshaft side of the engine and the identification mark (Fig. 33) to the front of engine on the "Rambler" Series. Connecting rod side clearance: "Hornet" and "Wasp" .007" — .013" "Rambler" .005" — .015"

CRANKSHAFT

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The crankshaft is supported by four main bearings with the end thrust taken at the No. 3 bearing position. The crankshaft, flywheel, and vibration damper are balanced as individual units. Complete engine assemblies are then balanced with all reciprocating parts in motion. Replacement of vibration damper or flywheel can be accomplished without rebalancing the complete assembly.

caps should never be filed. When either half of a bearing requires replacement, a complete set should be installed. To replace the upper half of a bearing, remove the bearing cap of the bearing to be replaced. Then loosen all of the other bearing caps and insert a small pin in the crankshaft oil hole. The head of the pin should be large enough so that it will not fall into the oil hole, yet thinner than the thickness of the bearing (Fig. 38).

FIGURE 38—Removing Main Bearing Insert

With the pin in place, rotate the shaft so that the upper half of the bearing will rotate in the direction of the locating tongue on the bearing. Tool J-2955 will greatly facilitate front and rear bearing cap removal on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series (Fig. 39).

CAUTION: Care must be exercised on

removal of the front main bearing cap because if the front engine end plate gasket is damaged, a replacement requires the removal and replacement of timing assembly and front engine end plate.

"Rambler" Series

The crankshaft is supported by four main bearings with the end thrust taken at the front main bearing location. The component parts of the crankshaft assembly are individually balanced; then rebalanced as an assembly. Replacement of vibration damper or flywheel can be accomplished without rebalancing the complete assembly.

Crankshaft. Main Bearings

Main bearings are of the precision type having a steel back with a babbitt lining. The bearings are not adjustable. Shims should never be used and the bearing

FIGURE 39— Removing Front Min Bearing

Cap with Tool J-2955 "Hornet" and

"Wasp" Series

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Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance

The standard clearance of .0005" to .0015" on the "Hornet" and "Wasp' Series and .001" to .0015" "Rambler" Series can be accurately checked by the use of Plastigage.

NOTE: When checking bearing clearance with the engine in such a position that the bearing caps support the weight of the crankshaft and flywheel, keep all main bearing caps tight except the one being checked. Support the weight o f the crankshaft

with a jack. Remove the bearing cap and wipe the oil from the bearing insert. Place a piece of Plastigage across the full width of the bearing insert (Fig. 36). Reinstall the bearing cap and tighten 75-80 foot pounds torque (dry) on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series and 66-70 foot pounds torque (dry) on the "Rambler" Series. Then remove the bearing cap and with the graduated scale, which is printed on the plastigage envelope, measure the width of the flattened plastigage at its widest point (Fig. 37). The number within the graduation indicates the clearance in thousandths of an inch. Install the proper size bearing liners (inserts) to bring the clearance to standard. Before installing crankshaft or main bearing inserts, the journals must be inspected for condition and dimensions.

Main Bearing Journals

Main journals can be measured without removing the crankshaft from the engine block. There are various gauges for this use, one of which is shown in Figure 40.

Then release the plunger so that it is up against the journal and lock the adjusting screw in position. Remove the gauge carefully and double the micrometer reading across the pin and anvil in the center of the "V". This reading is the diameter of the journal. Always check the journal at both ends for taper. Then rotate the shaft 90° and measure for out-of round. The out-of-round and taper limit is to be held to .001".

Main Journal Series Diameter "Hornet" 2.4988"-2.4998" "Wasp" 2.4988"-2.4998" "Rambler" 2.4791"-2.4798"

Connecting Rod Bearing or Series Crankpin Diameter "Hornet" 2.1244"-2.1254" "Wasp" 1.937" -1.938" "Rambler" 2.0948"-2.0955"

Main bearing caps are recessed into the engine block and line reamed. Therefore, it is not practical to replace them in the field.

Crankshaft End Play

The "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series end thrust of .003" to .009" is taken at the No. 3 main bearing. The "Rambler" Series end thrust of .003" to .008" is taken at the flanged front main bearing.

MAIN BEARING OIL SEALS

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The rear main bearing oil seal is a metal backed neoprene lined seal made in two identical halves. The upper half can be removed without removing the crankshaft by removing the rear main bearing cap and applying pressure against the metal part of the seal with a 1/4" brass rod. At the same time, rotate the flywheel to assist in removing the seal. At time of installation of the seals, coat the groove of the seal with non-hardening sealer.

FIGURE 40—Measuring Main Bearing Journal

To operate this gauge, remove the main bearing cap and place the gauge against the crankshaft journal

1. Packing Groove

2. Oil Seal

FIGURE 41—Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Page 20

ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

After the rear main bearing cap is replaced, cotton waste must be driven into the vertical packing holes to seal the side of the cap. A punch smaller in diameter than the vertical holes and at least 4" long will facilitate the packing of the cotton waste. Enough packing must protrude to seal between the pan gasket and bearing cap. The front main bearing cap has both a horizontal and a vertical seal to prevent external oil leakage. This packing seals from leakage between the engine front end plate gasket and the bearing cap. The vertical grooves are packed before the horizontal grooves (Fig. 42).

FIGURE 42— Front Bearing Cap Oil Seal

Groove Locations "Hornet" and

"Wasp" Series

"Rambler" Series

A hemp packing and "L" shaped neoprene rubber type rear main bearing oil seals are used. A special tool J-1610 is required to install the hemp packing (Fig. 43) . To properly replace upper hemp packing, the crankshaft must be removed.

VIBRATION DAMPER

"Hornet" Series

The vibration damper (Fig. 45) on the "Hornet" Series has two punch marks for alignment to maintain proper balance when the damper is disassembled for replacement of rubber discs.

2. Point at which Packing is Cut Flush

1. Oil Seal Installing Tool J-1610

FIGURE 43—Installing Hemp Packing Oil Seal

in Rear Main Bearing Cap "Rambler"

Series

1. Hemp Packing

2. Cap Side Seal

3. Cap Side Seal

4. Main Bearing Cap

FIGURE 44— Rear Main Bearing Cap and Seals

"Rambler" Series

Pulley Remover J-676-C and Replacer J-483 will facilitate removal and replacement operations (Fig. 18).

Page 21

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

1. Outer Member 5. Spacer

2. Rubber Discs 6. Oil Seal

3. Inner Member 7. Retainer Plate

4. Damper Cap Screw

FIGURE 45—Vibration Damper "Hornet"

Series

Tighten damper cap screw to 100-120 foot pounds torque.

"Wasp" Series

The vibration damper has an off-set screw location to insure proper reassembly for balance in the event disassembly was made to replace rubber cushions. Pulley Remover J-5371 and Replacer J-5369 will facilitate removal and replacement operations (Fig. 19) Tighten damper cap screw to 80-90 foot pounds torque.

"Rambler" Series

The vibration damper is not adjustable. The screws that retain the rubber are drawn up to a point where the shoulders will limit the tension of the rubber blocks (Fig. 47).

1. Damper Cap Screw 8. Damper Cover Plate

2. Cap Screw Lock 9. Rear Damper Cushion

3. Nut 10. Pulley to Damper

4. Lockwasher Screw

5. Front Damper Cushion 11. Hub

6. Damper Pulley 12. Key

7. Damper

FIGURE 46— Vibration Damper "Wasp" Series

FIGURE 47—Vibration Damper "Rambler"

Series

Tighten damper cap screw to 100-110 foot pounds torque

Page 22

ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

STARTER RING GEAR

With the exception of the flywheel, as used with the automatic transmission, which is a steel stamping, the starter ring gear can be replaced by placing the flywheel in an arbor press with steel blocks equally spaced around the gear and pressing the flywheel through, or the ring gear can be broken with a chisel. To install the new starter ring gear, first heat it to expand the inside diameter so that it can be pressed over the flywheel.

SHAFT PILOT BEARING

The pilot bearing for the shaft is located at the center of the rear end of the crankshaft. This is an oil impregnated bronze bearing. It is pressed into the end of the crankshaft. This bearing does not require any lubrication after assembly. When assembled in service, it is advisable to place a small amount of high melting point grease on the end of the shaft as it is installed into the bearing. Bearings being installed must be of the correct size for the series and type of transmission.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM

The lubrication system is of the full pressure type with all vital moving parts receiving lubrication under pressure except the piston pins.

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The pressure is supplied by a positive displacement rotor type oil pump mounted on the right lower side of cylinder block and driven from a gear cut on the camshaft. The oil is drawn through the floating oil intake screen (Fig. 48) to the intake side of the oil pump.

Oil under pressure passes the plunger of the oil relief valve assembly and fills the main horizontal oil gallery from which it is directed through drilled passages to lubricate the camshaft bearings, tappet assembly, main and connecting rod bearings, cylinder walls, and timing assembly. Piston pins are lubricated by oil "throwoff" from rotating parts and wiping action of piston rings. Before removing the oil pump, position the engine crankshaft so that No. 1 cylinder piston is at T.D.C. exhaust stroke and No. 6 cylinder piston is at T.D.C. on compression stroke. Upon disassembly of the oil pump, remove the oil pump cover and use a brass drift to mark an indexing point of one lobe and notch on rotor and internal gear or outer rotor to insure relationship for reassembly. Measure the clearance between a lobe and notch opposite the reference mark. This clearance should be .010" or less. If more than .010", replace both rotors and shaft. Place a straight edge across the pump body between the screw holes. Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the top of the rotors and the straight edge. This clearance should be .004" or less. If the clearance is greater than this limit, the pump body must be replaced. With the outer rotor pressed against one side of the pump body, measure the clearance between this rotor and the body on the opposite side. If this clearance is more than .008", replace the pump body. The pump cover plate must be smooth and not worn from the rotors. Place a straight edge across the cover. If a .002" feeler can be inserted between the cover and the straight edge, the cover is worn and must be replaced.

1. Swivel Connectlon

2. Intake Screen

3. Drain Plug Outlet

FIGURE 48— Oil Intake Screen Assembly

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

1. Oil Pump Drive Gear Pin

2. Oil Pump Drive Gear

3. Oil Pump Body

4. Oil Pump Shaft

5. Oil Pump Inner Rotor

6. Inner Oil Pump Rotor Lobe

7. Outer Oil Pump Rotor

8. Oil Pump Cover Gasket

9. Oil Pump Cover

10. Oil Pump Cover Screws

FIGURE 49—Oil Pump Assembly "Hornet"

and "Wasp" Series.

Page 23

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

In the event the engine crankshaft was not moved, replacement of the oil pump presents no problem. However, if the crankshaft was moved, the following procedure can be used to insure basic distributor timing location inasmuch as the distributor is driven by the oil pump shaft. Crank the engine until the No. 1 cylinder piston is on T.D.C. exhaust stroke and No. 6 is on T.D.C. in firing position. Install Aligning Tool J-2794 so that the guide pin indexes with the distributor mounting screw hole (Fig. 50).

1. Screen and Retainer 9. Idle Gear

2. Bolt 10. Key

3. Inlet Tube Gasket 11. Oil Pump Drive Shaft

4. Bolts 12. Oil Pump Idle Shaft

5. Cap Screws 13. Oil Pump Body

6. Oil Pump Cover 14. Oil Pump Drive Gear Pin

7. Gasket 15. Thrust Washer

8. Drive Gear (In Pump) 16. Oil Pump Drive Gear

FIGURE 51— Oil Pump "Rambler" Series

FIGURE 50—Oil Pump Shaft Aligning Tool

Install the oil pump, indexing the slot in the pump shaft with the tang on aligning tool, and push out the tool. Install distributor with rotor aligned with terminal in distributor cap which leads to No. 6 cylinder spark plug.

"Rambler" Series

The oil pump is mounted on the right hand side of the cylinder block. It is of the positive displacement gear type. The oil pump is driven off of a gear cut on the camshaft and in turn drives the distributor by means of an off-set tang which is part of the oil pump main shaft. Oil is drawn from the oil pan reservoir through a fixed inlet screen assembly to the intake side of the oil pump. The oil is discharged under pressure past a relief valve in the main oil gallery and then through holes drilled through the main bearing webs to the crankshaft and camshaft main bearing locations. The crankshaft drillings provide lubrication from the main bearings to the connecting rod bearings. The front camshaft bearing permits oil to flow onto the timing gear and chain assembly. The valve tappets and piston pins are lubricated by crankshaft oil "throw-off" and vapors.

CAUTION: Always maintain a tight

connection between the oil pump inlet flange and oil inlet hole located on the right side at the bottom of the cylinder block

The position of the oil pump drive gear keyway should be noted before removal of oil pump. Installing in the same location will prevent disturbance of distributor timing. In the event the crankshaft has been moved, crank the engine until No. 1 cylinder is at T.D.C. in firing position. The keyway will be located at approximately the three-thirty o'clock position, viewed from the lower section of the pump body.

Oil Pressure Relief Valve

The oil pressure relief valve consists of a plunger, spring, and retainer. The valve is located on the left side of the cylinder block on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series and the right side of the cylinder block on the "Rambler" Serieas. The oil pressure relief valve is not adjustable. A setting of 40 P.S.I. for the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series and 50-58 P.S.I. for the "Rambler" Series is built into the tension of the spring.

1. Housing Plug 3. Spring

2. Gasket 4. Plunger

FIGURE 52— Oil Pressure Relief Valve

"Rambler" Series

Page 24

ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

Series

Type No. Cylinders Bore Stroke Compression Ratio (Standard) (Optional) Piston Displacement Compression Pressure at Cranking Speed Horsepower

Twin Carburetor

Engine Lubrication

Series

Stem Diameter Intake Exhaust

"Hornet"

L-Head

3-13/16"

41/2"

7.5:1

308 Cu. In.

100 P.S.I. Min.

160 @

3800 R.P.M.

170 @

4000 R.P.M.

Pressure

VALVE SPECIFICATIONS

"Hornet"

.3412"-.3422" .3402"-.3412"

"Wasp"

L-Head

43/4"

7.5:1

8.0:1

202 Cu. In.

100 P.S.I. Min.

115 @

4000 R.P.M.

126 @

4000 R.P.M.

Pressure

"Wasp"

.3412"-.3422" .3402"-.3412"

"Rambler"

L-Head

3W'

41/4"

7.32:1

195.6 Cu. In.

120 P.S.I.

90 @

3800 R.P.M.

Pressure

"Rambler"

.3407"-.3412" .3407"-.3412"

Stem to Guide Clearance Intake Exhaust

Head Diameter Intake Exhaust

Seat Angle Intake Exhaust

Valve Face Angle Intake Exhaust

Valve Spring Free Height

Valve Spring Pressure Valve Open

Valve Closed

Spring Retainer Lock

.0015"-.003"

.002"-.004"

1.831"

1.556"

45° 45°

2-1/2"

153-165 Lbs.

@ 1-27/32

73-81 Lbs.

@ 23/16"

Split Two Piece

.001"-.003" .002"-.004"

1.495"-1.505"

1.390"-1.400"

45° 46°

2-1/2"

116-124 Lbs.

@ 1-13/32" 40-48 Lbs. @ 1-61/64"

Split Two Piece

.0018"-.0033" .0018"-.0033"

1.594"

1.343"

45° 45°

44º 44°

2-1/2"

75-82 Lbs.

@ 17/16"

37-41 Lbs.

@ 1-3/4"

Single Horseshoe

Tappet Clearance Cold Setting Intake

Exhaust

.010" "Go"

.011" "No-go"

.014" "Go"

.015" "No-go"

.010" "Go"

.011" "No-go"

.014" "Go"

.015" "No-go"

.016"

.018"

Page 25

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

OIL SYSTEMS

Series

Oil Pump Type Normal Oil Pressure

Oil Pressure Release Engine Oil Refill Capacity

Series

Bearing Type No. of Main Bearings Main Bearing Clearance Diameter Shaft End Play End Thrust Taken By Bearing Cap Adjustment

"Hornet"

Rotor

40 P.S.I. @

30 M.P.H.

40 P.S.I.

7 Qts.

CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS

"Hornet"

Replaceable

.0005"-.0015"

24988"-2.4998"

.003"-.009"

No. 3 Main Bearing

75-80 Ft. Lbs.

(Dry)

"Wasp"

Rotor

40 P.S.I. @

30 M.P.H.

40 P.S.I.

5 Qts.

"Wasp"

Replaceable

.0005"-.0015"

2.4988"-2.4998" .003"-.009"

No. 3 Main Bearing

75-80 Ft. Lbs.

(Dry

"Rambler"

Gear

30 P.S.I. @

20 M.P.H.

12 P.S.I. Min.

@ 600 Engine R.P.M.

50-58 P.S.I.

4 Qts.

"Rambler"

Replaceable

.001"-.0015"

2.4791"-2.4798" .003"-.008"

Front Main Bearing

66-70 Ft. Lbs.

(Dry)

Series

No. Rings Per Piston End Gap (Except "U" Flex Ring)

Compression Ring Side Clearance in Ring Groove

Oil Ring Side Clearance in Ring Groove

Series

Bearing Type Bearing Clearance Crankpin Diameter Bearing End Play Bearing

PRODUCTION PISTON RINGS

"Hornet"

.006"-.014"

.002"-.004"

.001"-.003"

"Wasp"

.004"-.009"

.002"-.004"

.001"-.003"

CONNECTING ROD AND BEARING

"Hornet"

Replaceable

.0005"-.0015"

2.1244"-2.1254" .007"-.013"

40-45 Ft. Lbs.

(Dry)

"Wasp"

Replaceable

.0005"-.0015"

1.937"-1.938" .007"-.013"

40-50 Ft. Lbs.

(Dry)

"Rambler"

.010"-.020"

.002"-.004"

"Rambler"

Replaceable

.001"-.0015"

2.0948"-2.0955" .005"-.015"

27-30 Ft. Lbs.

(Dry)

Page 26

ENGINE 6 CYLINDER

TUNE-UP DATA

Series

"Hornet"

"Wasp"

"Rambler"

Engine Idle Speed—Transmission in Neutral, Air Conditioning on. "Hornet" and "Wasp" 540-560 R.P.M. (Standard Transmission) 575 R.P.M. (Overdrive Transmission) 490-510 R.P.M. (Hydra Matic) "Rambler" 500-550 R.P.M. (Standard and Overdrive) 475 R.P.M. (Hydra Matic) 500 R.P.M. (With Air Conditioning on) Compression Pressure at Cranking Speed — "Hornet" and "Wasp" 100 P.S.I. Minimum "Rambler" 120 P.S.I.

Spark Advance (See Electrical Section—Distributor)

Firing Order-1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4

Plug

Gap

.032"

.030"

Int. Exh.

.10" "Go" .11" "No-go" .010 "Go" .11" "No-go" .016"

Tappet Clr. Cold

.14" "Go" .15" "No-go" .14" "Go" .15" "No-go" .018"

Distributor

Point Gap

.020"

.018"-.024"

Positive Battery Terminal Grounded Coil—Secondary Terminal Tower, Negative Polarity Breaker Point Spring Tension— "Hornet" and "Wasp" 17-20 Ounces "Rambler" 17-21 Ounces

Spark Plugs"Hornet"—Champion H-11 Torque 25 Ft. Lbs. (Aluminum Head) "Wasp"—Champion H-10 Torque 30 Ft. Lbs. (Cast Iron) 25 Ft. Lbs. (Aluminum Head) "Rambler"—Auto-Lite A-7 Torque 30 Ft. Lbs. (Cast Iron) Cylinder Head—Nut or Cap Screws Torque Specifications— "Hornet"-75-80 (Cold) "Wasp"-60-65 (Operating Temperatures) Cast Iron (Cold) Aluminum "Rambler"-57-60 (Operating Temperature)

Dwel

Angle

38º

31º-37º

Igniton Timing

T.D.C.

at Idle Speed

T.D.C.

at Idle Speed

4° A.T.D.C.

at Idle Speed

Description

Cylinder Head Exhaust Pipe Clamp Nut Exhaust Manifold Intake Manifold Oil Pan Bolt Timing Chain Cover Piston Pin Clamp Screw Connecting Rod Cap Nuts Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Screws Vibration Damper Retaining Screw Flywheel Retaining Cap Screw or Nuts Camshaft Sprocket Screw

*Aluminum cylinder heads are tightened at room temperature (70° F.).

ENGINE TORQUE TIGHTENING CHART

(Foot Pounds Dry)

"Hornet"

*75-80

20-35 12-15 15-20 15-20

40-45

75-80

100-120

40-45 20-30

"Wasp"

*60-65

20-30 12-15 15-20 15-20

40-50

75-80

80-90

40-45 20-30

"Rambler"

57-60 10-15

15-20 15-20

18-22 27-30

66-70

65-70

100-110

50-55

Page 27

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

TECHNICAL SERVICE LETTER REFERENCE

Date Letter No. Subject Changes of informatin on Page. No.

Page 28

Page 29

ENGINE SECTION

V-8

FIGURE 1—V-8 Engine Assembly

ENGINE IDENTIFICATION

The engine number is located at the right rear upper corner of the cylinder block below the rear exhaust manifold port (Fig. 2)

FIGURE 2—Engine Number Location

CYLINDER HEAD AND GASKET

After thoroughly cleaning the top surface of the block and the bottom surface of the cylinder head, inspect each for smooth and flat surfaces with a straight edge. The cylinder block surface has two sleeve locating dowels to assist in lining up and holding position of cylinder head and gasket during installation or removal. Coat the gasket with a non-hardening gasket paste. For convenience in removing and installing the cylinder head, use Tool J-4159 (Fig. 3).

FIGURE 3—Removing or Installing Cylinder

Heads with Tool I-4159

After installing the push rods, rocker arm assembly, and cylinder head cap screws, tighten them evenly.

Page 30

ENGINE V-8

Then retighten to 55 to 60 foot pounds with torque wrench following the sequence outlined in Figure 4.

FIGURE 4—Torque Tightening Sequence

55-60 Ft. Lbs.

ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY

The rocker arm shaft assembly is secured to the cylinder head with four long cylinder head and rocker arm shaft retaining cap screws. The rocker arm shafts axe hollow, plugged at each end, serving as oil galleries for rocker arm, push rod end, and valve stem lubrication. The oil pressure supply for the left hand bank rocker arm assembly is taken from the left main oil gallery at the front camshaft bearing. The oil under pressure through connecting passages in cylinder block and cylinder head enters around the undercut stem area of. the front rocker arm shaft mounting cap screw upward into the rocker arm shaft. The right bank rocker arm assembly lubrication pressure is taken from the vertical oil gallery passages at the rear camshaft bearing oil passage through the cylinder head and block to the rear rocker arm shaft retaining cap screw. Two different rocker arms are used to accommodate the angle from the rocker arm shaft support to the valve stems. However, the rocker arm shaft assemblies are interchangeable from cylinder bank to cylinder bank.

1. Exhaust Valves

2. Intake Valves FIGURE 6—Valve Arrangement

Intake or Exhaust Valve Spring: Valve Closed 78-86 Lbs. @ 1-3/4" Valve Open 158-172 Lbs. @ 1-3/8"

Valve springs are installed with the inactive (closed) coils against the cylinder head. The valve spring retainer serves the dual purpose of holding the valve and spring together and providing a valve stem oil seal. The seal is moulded onto the retainer. At valve service periods, the valve spring retainers should be replaced to insure good oil control at this point. Tool J-5988 will facilitate removal of the valves from the cylinder head (Fig. 7). The half conical shaped valve locks can be removed after compressing the spring.

FIGURE 5—Valve Rocker Arm Assembly

VALVES

Figure 6 illustrates the valve arrangement.

Valve Springs

Whenever valve springs are removed, they should be tested according to the specifications listed below. Use valve spring tester and replace all springs not within specifications.

FIGURE 7—Removing Valves from

Cylinder Head

Valve Stem to Guide Clearance

Valve guides are cast integrally with the cylinder head. The valves are replaced with oversize stem valves when excessive stem to guide clearance develops (Fig. 8). For service, valves with oversize stems are supplied in .003", .010", .020', and .030". A special set of valve guide reamers (J-6042) are available to fit the various size valves to their guide.

Page 31

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 8—Checking Valve Stem to Guide

Clearance Limits—.004" Intake,

.005" Exhaust

Valve Refacing

The intake valves are faced to a 30° angle and the exhaust valves to a 45° angle. Valves may be refaced until remaining margin is down to 1/32"; then the valve must be replaced. The valve stem tip when worn can be resurfaced and rechamfered. However, never remove more than .010".

Valve Seat Refacing

Grind the valve seats to the following specifications:

FIGURE 9—Checking Valve Seat Runout

under pressure flows into the body through the check valve assembly maintaining the tappet fully charged. This cycle of operation occurs when tappet leaks off some oil during the normal valve opening events. Opening movement of the cam lobe causes tappet body movement, closing the check valve and transmitting "zero-lash" movement of the push rod to open the cylinder valve. The valve tappets should be cleaned and serviced at time of engine overhaul or whenever excessive noise exists.

Seat Angle Intake Valve 30° Exhaust Valve 45° Seat Width Intake Valve 3/64" Exhaust Valve 5/64"

Narrowing stones should be used to obtain the proper seat widths when required. Control seat runout to a maximum of .002" (Fig. 9).

Valve Tappets and Push Rods

11222

The hydraulic valve tappet consists of a body, plunger, plunger return spring, check valve assembly, push rod socket, and lock ring (Fig. 10). The tappet operates in a guide bore which has an oil passage drilled into the adjoining main oil galleries. When the tappet is on the heel of the cam lobe, the plunger return spring indexes an oil hole undercut in the plunger with the oil supply admitted through the tappet body. Oil

FIGURE 10— Valve Push Rod and Tappet

Page 32

ENGINE V-8

When removing the tappets, they must be kept in an order that will insure replacement in their respective operating bores in the engine because they are select fitted to that bore. Keep each tappet component group by itself as all detail components are select fitted to one another in manufacturing. Only complete tappet assemblies are supplied for service replacement. The tappet assembly should be cleaned in a solvent to remove all varnish or leaded deposits. After cleaning, the tappet must be "leak-down" tested to insure its "zero-lash" operating ability. Kerosene should be used for this test. Test the tappet by filling the body with kerosene and then install the plunger return spring, plunger assembly, and push rod socket. Leave out snap ring for test. Insert the tappet in tappet test tool J-5978, and check it for "leak-down" by squeezing the handles together (Fig. 11) .

FIGURE 11— Checking Hydraulic Tappet

"Leak-Down"

If the tappet leaks down rapidly or collapses immediately, it must be rechecked and/or replaced with a complete new tappet assembly. The normal tappet will take approximately 10 seconds or more to "leak- down" with kerosene. After testing tappets, they should be prelubricated and assembled in the engine without an oil charge. They will normally charge themselves in 3 to 8 minutes of engine operation.

Tappet Noise

A loud clicking noise is usually the result of the plunger stuck down below its operating position or a check valve held open. A light clicking noise is usually the result of excessive "leak-down" caused by wear or slight leakage at the check valve and its seat. An intermittent noise at tappet is the result of dirt or chips stopping the check valve or a lack of oil flow into the body because of dirt. A general tappet noise is in most cases due to a lack of oil volume or pressure. The normal tappet plunger operating range is .140" to .170".

Valve Timing

The correct valve timing is established by the relation between the sprocket on the camshaft and the sprocket on the crankshaft.

FIGURE 12—Properly Installed Timing

Assembly

To obtain the correct valve timing, index the "0" marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets on a line drawn vertically through the center line of each shaft (Fig. 12) . To check the assembly, rotate the crankshaft until the timing mark on camshaft sprocket is on a horizontal line at either the 3 or 9 o'clock position. Count the number of links or pins on the timing chain between timing marks. You should have 101/2 links and/or 21 pins between timing marks. Each' link contains two pins. To make an external check of valve timing, remove the cylinder head covers and spark plugs. Crank the engine until No. 6 cylinder piston in right bank is on T.D.C. on compression stroke. This places No. 1 cylinder piston on T.D.C. on the exhaust stroke valve overlap position. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise. 90°. Install a dial indicator on the number one intake valve rocker arm push rod end (Fig. 13). Crank the engine slowly in direction of rotation (clockwise) until the dial indicator indicates push rod movement. The hydraulic lifter should be fully charged for this check. At the time the dial indicator moves, the ignition timing mark on the vibration damper should align with the 14° (approx.) position on the degree quadrant section of the timing assembly cover. If more than 1/2” variance

Page 33

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 13—Installation of Dial Indicator

for External Valve Timing Check

in either direction is evident, remove the timing chain cover and inspect timing chain installation. Replace timing chain if over chain deflection exists.

TIMING CHAIN COVER

The timing chain cover is a die casting incorporating an oil seal at the vibration damper hub. To remove the timing chain cover, first remove the oil filter pressure line, water pump and manifold, fuel pump assembly, and vibration damper. The oil seal can be pryed out of the cover and a new one installed with seal installing tool J-5983 (Fig. 14).

To prevent damage to this seal, it is important that the cover be properly aligned when installing the vibration damper. This is accomplished by leaving the cover to block screws loose until the vibration damper has been partially installed. Then tighten the cover screws. An oil slinger is used inside the timing chain cover. The slinger is held in place by the crankshaft sprocket, and the vibration damper hub.

CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS

The camshaft is supported by five steel shelled, babbitt lined bearings which have been pressed into the block and line reamed. The camshaft bearings are step bored, being larger at the front bearing than at the rear, to permit easy removal and installation of the camshaft. All camshaft bearings are lubricated under pressure. The oil for lubrication is supplied through connecting drilled passages from the intermediate main bearing locations and from the main oil galleries to the front and rear camshaft bearing locations.

Camshaft End Play

The camshaft end thrust is controlled by the front surface of the camshaft bearing and the rear surface of the thrust plate, and the rear hub surface of the camshaft sprocket and the front surface of the thrust plate.

The end play tolerance is .004" to .006".

Camshaft Removal

Remove cylinder head covers, ignition plug wires, rocker arm assemblies, intake manifold, and carburetor. Remove water pump and water distribution manifold. Remove upper oil breather and tappet assembly cover. Remove inner oil baffle cover. Remove push rods, keeping them in their relative operational positions. Remove hydraulic tappets and keep in relative operational positions. Remove fuel pump, vibration damper, and timing chain cover. Crank engine until timing marks line up on a vertical line with shaft centers (Fig. 12). Remove oil shedder, fuel pump eccentric, crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, and timing chain assembly (Figs. 15 and 16). Timing sprockets can be pryed off with ease. Remove the camshaft retainer and thrust plate and the end thrust spacer (Figs. 17 and 18).

FIGURE 14— Installation of Timing Chain

Cover Seal

PISTONS

Slipper type, tapered skirt, cam ground, pistons are used. They are of aluminum alloy, steel reinforced for controlled expansion.

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ENGINE V-8

FIGURE 15—Timing Chain Cover Oil Shedder

The ring belt area provides for three piston rings, two compression and one oil control ring above the piston pin. The pistons are removed from the top of cylinder bore after removing ring ridge. The piston pin boss is "offset" from the piston center line to place it nearer the thrust side of the cylinder. To insure proper installation of the piston in the bore, a notch is cast in the piston top, and letters "F" cast in the pin boss structure at the front (Fig. 19).

FIGURE 16— Fuel Pump Drive Eccentric

FIGURE 17— Camshaft Retainer and Thrust

Plate

FIGURE 18— Camshaft End Thrust Spacer

1. Notch and "F" letter to Front of Engine

FIGURE 19— Correct Piston Position

The piston to bore clearances are .021" to .027" at top land, .001" to .0015" top of skirt, and .000" to .0015" bottom of skirt (Fig. 20).

PISTON PINS

Full floating type piston pins are mounted in a split bronze bushing at the connecting rod upper end and retained by lock rings in piston pin bosses. Prior to fitting a new piston pin, the bronze connecting rod bushing is pressed into place and burnished with components of tool J-6055 (Fig. 21). Be sure oil hole in bushing lines up with oil hole drilled in rod. The burnishing operation is required to prevent the bushing from turning in the rod end while honing or reaming to fit piston pin. The piston pin should be a palm press fit in rod bushing at room temperature and a palm press fit in a piston heated in water to about 200°F. When pin is properly fitted to rod, rod will fall by its own weight when located in a horizontal position and held by the piston pin.

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ENGINE V-8

FIGURE 20— Measuring Clearance at Bottom

of Piston Skirt

PISTON RINGS

A three ring piston is used. The two compression and one oil control rings are located above the piston pin boss. Before assembling the rings to the piston, carbon must be cleaned from all ring grooves. The oil drain holes in the oil ring grooves must be cleared with the proper size drill. Care must be exercised not to remove metal from the grooves, since that will change their depth, nor from the lands, since that will change the ring groove clearance and destroy ring to land seating. Checking Ring Groove Clearance Side clearance between land and piston ring should be .0015" to .005". Roll the ring around the groove in which it is to operate. It must fit freely at all points.

Checking Ring Gap Clearance

Piston ring gap or joint clearance is measured in the bottom of the cylinder near the end of the ring travel area. To square the ring in the bore for checking joint clearance, place the ring in the bore. Then with an inverted piston, push the ring down near the lower end of the ring travel area.

FIGURE 21— Burnishing Piston Pin Bushing

When other than standard ring sizes are used, rings should be individually fitted to their respective bores for a gap clearance of .010" to .018".

Piston Ring Installation

Removal of glaze from the cylinder wall for quicker ring seating can be accomplished by various methods. Where an expanding type hone is used, do not use more than ten strokes (each stroke down and return) to recondition a cylinder wall. Successful ring installation depends upon cleanliness in handling parts and while honing the cylinder walls. The engine bearings and lubrication system must be protected from abrasives. Rigid type hones are not to be used to remove cylinder glaze as there is always a slight amount of taper in cylinder walls after the engine has been in service. Rings must be installed on the pistons with a ring installing tool to prevent distortion and ring breakage. For service ring replacement, follow the detailed instructions enclosed in the ring package. Prior to installing the piston and connecting rod assembly into engine, the piston ring gaps are to be

Page 36

ENGINE V-8

FIGURE 22

PISTON RING GAP LOCATION

arranged so that the gap for the oil ring expander is to the outside of the block and oil ring gap is toward the inside of the block. The gaps on the compression rings as shown in Figure 22 are 120° apart. Do not locate a ring gap over the piston pin boss.

CONNECTING RODS

Connecting rods are the "I" beam drop forged steel type. The connecting rods are stamped with the cylinder numbers in which they are assembled. The numbers are opposite the squirt holes and toward the outside of the banks in which they are located. The squirt holes from connecting rods in one bank lubricate the cylinders in the opposite bank. The connecting rod squirt holes are located in the parting surface of the bearing cap (Fig. 23).

The cylinders are numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 in the left bank of engine from front to rear, and even numbers 2, 4, 6, 8 in the right bank, front to rear as viewed from driver's seat. Two connecting rods are mounted, side by side, on each crankpin. The side clearance is .003" to .011" Fig. 24).

FIGURE 23— Connecting Rod Squirt Hole

Location

FIGURE 24— Checking Connecting Rod

Side Clearance

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

CRANKSHAFT

The crankshaft is a precision steel cast shaft having five main journals, four crankpins, and provided with an oil stinger at rear journal inboard of the rear oil seal. The component parts of the crankshaft assembly are individually balanced, and then the complete engine assembly is balanced as a unit. Replacement of crankshaft, flywheel, or vibration damper can be accomplished without rebalancing the complete assembly.

Main Bearing Journals

Main bearing journals can be measured without removing the crankshaft from the engine block. Various gauges are available for this purpose. Always check both ends of the journal to note the taper. Then rotate the shaft 90° and measure for out of round. The main bearing diameter is 2.500" and should not taper or be out of round more than .002".

FIGURE 25—Piston and Connecting Rod

Assembly

Connecting Rod Alignment

Whenever new rings are installed or new piston pins are replaced, it is necessary to align the connecting rods and pistons as assemblies to insure true operation in the cylinder bore. Misaligned rods will cause uneven piston and ring wear which will result in oil consumption. The connecting rod should be inspected for a twisted or bent condition.

Connecting Rod Bearings

The connecting rod bearings are the steelbacked, babbitt lined precision type. They are installed as pairs in the connecting rod and cap.

CAUTION: Never file a connecting rod

or cap to adjust bearing clearance.

To determine the amount of bearing clearance, use a piece of Plastigage in the bearing cap. Then tighten the cap to torque specifications to compress the gauge. Remove the bearing cap and calibrate the width of the Plastigage with the scale furnished. If the bearing clearance is excessive, the correct undersize bearing insert (pair) should be installed in the connecting rod. The correct connecting rod bearing clearance is .0005" to .0025". It is important that the connecting rod bearing cap bolt nuts be drawn up to 40 to 45 foot pounds torque.

Crankshaft Main Bearings

Main bearings are of the precision type having a steel back with a babbitt lining. The bearings are not adjustable. Shims should never be used and the bearing caps should never be filed. When either half of a bearing requires replacement, a complete set should be installed. To replace the upper half of a bearing, remove the bearing cap of the bearing to be replaced. Then loosen all of the other bearing caps and insert a small pin about 1/2" long in the crankshaft oil hole. The head of this pin should be large enough so that it will not fall into the oil hole, yet thinner than the thickness of the bearing. With the pin in place, rotate the shaft so that the upper half of the bearing will rotate in the direction of the locating tongue on the bearing.

Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance

The standard clearance of .0005" to .0025" can be accurately checked by the use of Plastigage.

NOTE: When checking bearing clearance,

with the engine in such a position that the bearing caps support the weight of the crankshaft and flywheel, keep all main bearings tight except the one being checked. Support the weight of the crankshaft with a jack.

Remove the bearing cap and wipe the oil from the bearing insert. Place a piece of Plastigage across the full width of the bearing insert. Reinstall the bearing cap and tighten 90 to 95 foot pounds torque. Then remove the bearing cap and with the graduated scale, which is printed on the Plastigage envelope, measure the width of the flattened Plastigage at its widest point. The number within the graduation indicates the

Page 38

Page 39

COOLING SYSTEM

WATER PUMP

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The water pump is a centrifugal type utilizing a nonadjustable packless type seal. The shaft and sealed double row ball bearings are an integral assembly. The water pump discharges into a brass water distributing tube to provide uniform coolant circulation around the valves.

FIGURE 3—Water Pump Assembly

"Hornet" V-8 Series

is connected to the Ultramatic transmission oil cooler, while the pump discharges into the equalizing manifold. Dual outlets on the manifold supply a balanced flow of coolant to both cylinder banks.

FIGURE 1—Water Pump Assembly

"Hornet" 6 Series

FIGURE 2—Water Pump Assembly

"Wasp" Series

The "Hornet" V-8 water pump impeller housing is cast integrally with the water distribution equalizing manifold. The single inlet

"Rambler" Series

The water pump is a centrifugal blade type utilizing a factory packed, sealed-in cartridge shaft seal. The seal gland springs hold the seal tight to the shaft. The seal cartridge is non-adjustable and serviced as an assembly only. It is mounted and sealed in the pump body by means of a rubber "0" ring. The "0" ring permits self-alignment of the pump shaft as well as absorbing radial loads imposed by the hydraulic forces of the impeller. The seal gland spring chamber serves as a lubricant reservoir for the shaft and bushing lubricant (Fig. 4).

Water Pump Disassembly and Assembly "Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

Remove the pump shaft retainer, cover, and gasket. Support the pump in water pump holding fixture J-2778. Press the pump shaft and bearing assembly, complete with the pulley hub, from the pump using the shaft driver.

NOTE: The holding fixture is provided with

adjustable studs to permit leveling the pump on the fixture. A slotted adapter is placed between the lower part of the body to support the body and prevent possible fracture.

The bore in the pump body must be cleaned before reassembly.

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COOLING SYSTEM

1. Shaft and Seal Assembly

2. Seal Housing Rubber Retaining Ring

3. Impeller

4. Pump Body

5. Impeller Rivet

FIGURE 4—Water Pump Assembly

"Rambler" Series

The bore must be inspected for scoring and wear. Inspect the seal surface in the pump body; if rough, reface; if scored, replace body. Inspect the pump body impeller area; if the impeller has been scraping the body, it indicates excessive end thrust movement. Replace the complete pump. Inspect the bearings, turning slowly by hand while applying hand thrust load. The bearing and shaft assembly must be replaced if drag or roughness is noted. The bearing and shaft assembly must be replaced if the metal end seals are loose and may be turned by hand, the shaft is worn, or the spring retainer groove is worn. Press the shaft and bearing assembly into the pump body. Press the outer ring of the bearing, not the shaft. Lubricate the hub end of the shaft with castor oil and install by supporting the hub flange and pressing on the impeller end of the shaft. The front face of the pulley hub should be 5%6" on the "Hornet" 6 Series and 52%2" on the "Wasp" Series as shown in Figures 1 and

2. Lubricate the impeller end of the shaft with castor oil. Assemble the seal, carbon washer, and retainer in the impeller. Press the impeller on the shaft supporting the shaft at the pulley hub end. The impeller must protrude .007" to .017" beyond the cover face of the pump body. Install a new pump shaft assembly retainer and the pump body cover.

"Hornet" V-8 Series

The pump is attached to the equalizing manifold with cap screws and copper sealing washers (Fig. 5).

FIGURE 5—Water Pump and Manifold

Assembly "Hornet" V-8 Series

"Rambler" Series

The water pump impeller is installed in the slotted end of the pump shaft and retained by a tubular brass rivet. A removable plug in the pump body permits the removal, by drill or punch, and installation of the rivet. The seal and shaft assembly may be pulled from the pump housing after the rivet is removed. To prevent damage to the cartridge seals or loss of lubricant, do not remove the cartridge from the shaft. Position the "0" ring on the edge of the seal cartridge and press the cartridge squarely into the pump housing. NOTE: Do not lubricate the "0" ring, groove in the pump body, or surface of seal cartridge to facilitate assembly of seal in body. Insert the impeller in the housing, through the outlet, and install it on the pump shaft. Fasten the impeller to the shaft with a new rivet. Peen the rivet, working through the access hole in the housing while supporting the pump shaft. Install a new gasket when assembling the pump to the cylinder block. Apply gasket seal to the gasket.

RADIATOR

The radiator is a conventional vertical flow type with the expansion tank located on top of the tube section. Although the capacities remain essentially the same, radiators, with increased fin area, are used on models equipped with air conditioning. Water or anti-freeze solution should, whenever possible, be added to the radiator only when the system is cool. Coolant should be added to barely cover the tubes of the core. This precaution will prevent constant loss of coolant due to expansion when heated. The Weather Eye valve should be fully open when refilling or flushing the system. The engine must be idling during the refilling

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

idling during the refilling operation to prevent trapped air interferring with the circulation or Weather Eye operation. A drain cock is provided on the lower tank of the radiator to drain the cooling system. On the "Hornet" V-8 Series, two cylinder block pipe plug drains are also provided, one on the left side lower center, and the other on the right side lower rear.

ELECTRICAL Capacities

"Hornet" V-8 Series 28 Qts. "Hornet" 6 Series 19-1/2 Qts. "Wasp" Series 14 Qts. "Rambler" Series 12 Qts.

Radiator Filler Cap

The cooling system radiator filler cap is an atmospheric vented cap. The atmospheric vent valve closes only if there is, a coolant vapor flow through the vent valve of .4 to .7 cubic feet per minute. When the vent valve closes, the system will become pressurized 61/4 to 73/4 pounds per square inch. Pressurizing the cooling system increases the boiling point of the coolant. On models equipped with air conditioning, the pressure cap pressurizes the cooling system 12 to 15 pounds per square inch.

"Hornet" V-8 Series

The thermostat is located in the coolant distribution manifold outlet. A restricted passage permits the coolant to circulate through the water pump and cylinder block when the thermostat is closed, thus bypassing the radiator core.

All Series

NOTE: The thermostat should be checked whenever the cooling system is serviced and particularly at the time of installation of antifreeze solution.

FAN ASSEMBLY "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

An "X" type fan is attached to a hub on the water pump shaft. When equipped with air conditioning, a five blade fan is used.

"Rambler" Series

A four blade fan is mounted on an adjustable bracket on the front of the engine block. When equipped with air conditioning, a five blade fan is used.

Fan Belt Adjustment "Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

FIGURE 6—Cross Section Radiator

Filler Cap

THERMOSTAT

"Hornet" 6, "Wasp", and "Rambler" Series

A thermostat is located in the cylinder head water outlet housing to insure proper engine operating temperatures for maximum economy and engine life. Always use a thermostat as an engine may be overcooled as well as over-heated.

The fan belt is adjusted by moving the generator on its mounting bracket to obtain a deflection of approximately 3/4" inward at a point midway between the water pump and generator pulleys.

"Hornet" V-8 Series

The fan belt is adjusted by moving the generator on its mounting bracket to obtain a deflection of approximately 1/2" inward at a point midway between the water pump and generator pulleys.

"Rambler" Series

The fan belt is adjusted by moving the fan assembly in a horizontal plane. The fan belt should be adjusted so that upon application of 25 pounds pressure, at a point midway between the fan and generator pulleys, it will deflect approximately 1/2".

All Series

It is important that the proper tension of the fan belt is maintained to insure efficient operation of the cooling and electrical systems. Too much tension will cause excessive wear on the fan and generator bearings.

Page 42

Page 43

ELECTRICAL SECTION

BATTERIES (Auto-Lite) The battery is a three cell, six volt unit with adequate storage capacity for the normal requirements of the car.

CAUTION: Always connect positive

terminal to ground.

Specifications "Hornet" Series

CT-1-15, 20 Hrs. 105 A.H., 20 Min. 133 Amps. 15 Plate.

"Wasp" and "Rambler" Series 1M-100, 20 Hrs. 100 A.H., 15 Plates.

Connecting Cables

Use only genuine replacement cables to insure the proper ground connections. Undersize cables reduce starting ability. Always apply vaseline to the hold-down clamp, nuts, and terminal connections when the battery is installed.

Servicing of Battery

The battery should be inspected every month or every 1,000 miles. The addition of distilled water, particularly in cold weather, should be made just before operating the car above charging speed. This insures mixture of the water with the acid. Be sure that the height of the liquid in each cell is not less than 3/8" and not more than 1/2" over the top of the separators.

Battery Testing

At regular intervals, each cell of the battery should be tested with a hydrometer. The battery should register not less than

1.250 specific gravity in climates where freezing occurs, and not less 1.225 under more moderate conditions. CAUTION: When replacing a battery in the carrier, do not tighten the hold-down clamp wing nuts excessively. It is unnecessary and will cause distortion of the battery case.

Discharge Causes

Following are a few of the factors that contribute to the discharge of a battery in use:

Improper regulator settings. Oxidized regulator contact points. Loose or corroded battery terminals. High resistant ground connections. Short circuits in wiring and terminal blocks.

GENERATOR (AUTO-LITE)

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series The Auto-Lite Model GGW-4801-F Generator used on the "Hornet" V-8 and Model GGW-4802-B used

on the "Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series are six volt, two brush, shunt units with a ball bearing supporting the armature at the drive end and a bronze bushing at the commutator end (Fig. 1). A fan integral with the pulley forces air through the generator to cool the armature. The generator output is regulated by the correct settings of the current and voltage regulator.

Lubrication

At time of regular chassis lubrication intervals, add 3 to 5 drops of medium engine oil to the oiler at the top of the drive end head. Fill the commutator end oil pocket with medium engine oil. At overhaul, pack ball bearing 1/2 full with high temperature non-fibre grease and soak bronze bearing and felts in medium engine oil.

Maintenance

A periodic inspection should be made of the charging circuit. The intervals between these checks will vary depending upon the type of service. Dirt, dust, and high speed operation are factors which contribute to increased wear of the bearings, brushes, etc. Under normal conditions, an inspection of the generator should be made every 5000 miles. A visual inspection should be made of all wiring to be sure that there are no broken wires and that all connections are clean and tight. Special attention should be paid to the ground connections at the bat- tery, generator, and regulator. If the commutator is dirty or discolored, it can be cleaned by holding a piece of No. 00 sandpaper against it while turning the armature slowly. Blow the sand out of the generator after cleaning the commutator. If the commutator is rough or worn, the generator should be removed from the engine, the armature removed, and the commutator turned down. The brushes should slide freely in their holders. If the brushes are oil soaked or if they are worn to less than one-half of their original length, they should be replaced. Check the brush spring tension of 35. to 53 ounces with a spring scale. To check, hook the scale in the hole in the end of the brush arm. Pull the scale on a line parallel to the face of the brush and take the reading just as the arm leaves the brush. If the tension is excessive, the brushes and commutator will wear very rapidly. If the tension is low, arcing between the brushes and commutator will result in reduced output.

Overhaul Procedure

At periods of approximately 25,000 miles of operation, the charging circuit should be thoroughly checked and the generator removed from the engine and reconditioned.

Page 44

ELECTRICAL

FIGURE

1—Generator Auto-Lite Model GCW-4801-F

Wiring

Be sure all connections are clean and tight and that there are no broken wires. The wiring should be inspected visually and then checked electrically. To check, connect an ammeter between the battery terminal of the regulator and the lead removed from this terminal. Run the engine at a medium speed and turn on lights or accessories to obtain a generator output of 10 amperes.

At this 10 ampere charging rate, a voltage reading should be taken with a 10 volt voltmeter between the following points:

Generator frame to battery ground post—.03 volt maximum

Battery ground post to regulator base—.03 volt maximum

Battery post to regulator "B" terminal—.1 volt maximim

Generator "armature" terminal to regulator "armature" terminal—.1 volt maximum

Generator "field" terminal to regulator "field" terminal—.05 volt maximum

If readings higher than these are obtained, the cause should be located and corrected.

Armature

The armature should be visually inspected for mechanical defects. If the commutator is rough or worn, it should be turned down in a lathe. After turning the commutator, the mica should be undercut to a depth of 1/32". When undercutting the mica, the cut should be square and free from burrs. The maximum eccentricity of the commutator is not to exceed .0005". For testing armature circuits, it is advisable to use a set of test probes consisting of a lamp in series with two test points and connected to a 110 volt lighting circuit. To test armatures for ground, connect one point of a set of test probes to the core or shaft (not on bearing surfaces) and touch a commutator segment with the other probe. If the lamp lights, the armature winding is grounded and the armature should be replaced. To test for shorted armature coils, a growler is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and hold a thin steel strip on the armature core. The armature is then rotated slowly by hand and if a shorted coil is present, the steel strip will vibrate.

Field Coils

Using the test probes, check the field coils for both opens and grounds.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

To test for open coils, connect the probes to the two leads of each coil. If the lamp fails to light, the coil is open and should be replaced. To test for grounds, place one probe on the generator frame and the other on the field coil terminals. If a ground is present, the lamp will light and the coil should be replaced.

Brush Holders

With test probes, check the insulated brush holder to be sure it is not grounded. Touch the insulated brush holder with one probe and a convenient ground on the commutator end plate with the other probe. If the lamp lights, it indicates a grounded brush holder. Inspect the brush holders for distortion and improper alignment. The brushes should slide freely and should be perfectly in line with the commutator segments.

Brushes

Brushes that have been subjected to oil or are worn to one-half or less of their original length should be replaced. When replacing brushes, it is necessary to seat them so that they have 100 per cent surface contacting the commutator. The brushes should be sanded to obtain this fit. This can be done by drawing a piece of No. 00 sandpaper between the commutator and brush and against the brush holder. Do not sand too much as it merely shortens brush life. After sanding the brushes, blow the sand and carbon dust out of the generator. The generator should then be run under load long enough to secure a perfect brush fit. Generators are not to be tested for output until after the brushes are seated.

Assembly of Generator

Pack the ball bearing 1/2 full with a high melting point grease and soak the felts in medium engine oil before assembly.

Generator Test

After the generator is assembled and the brushes are properly fitted, the generator should be bench tested under conditions of speed, voltage, current, and temperature as near as possible to its operation on the engine before installation. To check the field coil draw, connect a battery and ammeter in series with the field coils and connect a voltmeter across the field coil terminals. Adjust the voltage to the specified value and read the ammeter which should be within the limits specified. Any other reading indicates faulty field coils or connections. Check the motorizing draw. Connect an ammeter and battery in series with the armature terminal and the frame. Complete the

field circuit to ground and connect a voltmeter from the armature terminal to the frame. If the reading is too high, check the bearings and armature for binding and correct alignment. Check the output with generator connected as above. Drive the generator on the test bench, or if none is available, on the engine. If the output cannot be obtained or if the speed is too high, inspect for high resistance connections and for improper brush seating.

Polarizing Generator

All generators should be polarized with the battery before running. This can be done by using a jumper wire momentarily from the negative battery terminal to the armature terminal of the generator with the field circuit completed to ground.

Generator Specifications Auto-Lite Model GGW-4801-F and GGW-4802-B

Volts - 6 Rotation—Clockwise at the Drive End Control—Vibrating Type Current-Voltage Regulator Rated Output-45 Amperes Poles - 2 Brushes - 2 Brush Spring Tension-35 to 53 Ounces with new brushes. Measure with scale hooked in the hole in the end of the brush arm. Pull on a line perpendicular to the top of the brush and take the reading just as the arm leaves the brush. End Play—.003" to .010" Ground Polarity—Positive Field Coil Draw-1.6 to 1.7 amperes at 5 volts. Measure from armature to field terminals. Motorizing Draw-5.0 to 5.5 amperes at 5 volts. Have field terminal grounded to frame and measure from armature termi nal to a ground on the frame. Output Tests (Cold) —6.4 Volts, 0 Amperes at 870 to 970 R.P.M.; *8.0 Volts, 45 Amperes at 1925 to 2125 R.P.M. (Hot) —6.4 Volts, 0 Amperes at 950 to 1050 R.P.M.; *8.0 Volts, 45 Amperes at 2350 to 2550 R.P.M. *Do not operate at more than 45 Amperes for any length of time as to do so may result in burned armature and field windings.

VIBRATING CURRENT-VOLTAGE REGULATORS (Auto-Lite)

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The Auto-lite Model VBE-6101-A regulators are used with shunt type generators and have three units each with a separate function to perform. These units are the circuit breaker unit, the voltage regulator unit, and the current limiting regulator unit.

Page 46

ELECTRICAL

Circuit Breaker

The circuit breaker consists of an electromagnet and a set of contacts. The contacts are mounted with one on a stationary bracket and the other on a movable armature which is controlled by the electromagnet. The movable contact is mounted on a spring arm so that as the contacts open and close a slight wiping action is produced. The electromagnet of the circuit breaker has two windings, one, the shunt coil which is connected across the generator output like a voltmeter and the other a series coil connected in series with the generator output like an ammeter. These two coils are wound in the same direction so that when the generator is charging the battery, the magnetism of the series coil increases the total magnetism. When the battery discharges back through the generator, the magnetism of the series coil is reversed and the magnetism of the two coils is opposed. This results in a decreased pull on the armature and spring action opens the contacts. The sequence of operation of the circuit breaker unit is as follows: When the generator is not running, the contacts are open. When the generator is started, the voltage builds up at the armature terminal and in the shunt coil and as soon as it reaches the value for which the circuit breaker is calibrated, there is sufficient magnetism created by the shunt coil to pull down the armature, closing the contacts which automatically connects the generator to the battery. With the contacts thus closed, the current in the series coil is flowing from the generator to the battery or in the same direction as the current in the shunt coil, so that the pull on the armature is increased by the magnetism of the series coil. When the engine is stopped and the generator speed decreases, the voltage falls, and as soon as the generator voltage drops below the battery terminal voltage, the current flows from the battery to the generator, reversing the direction of current in the series coil so that the magnetism created by the series coil opposes and reduces the magnetism of the shunt coil. This reduces the pull on the armature to a point where spring action opens the contacts.

Voltage Regulator

The function of the voltage regulator is to hold the generated voltage at a predetermined value as long as the circuit values allow the voltage to build up to the operating voltage. The electromagnet of the voltage regulator unit has a winding of many turns of fine wire and is connected across the charging circuit so that the system voltage controls the amount of magnetism. The contacts of the voltage regulator unit are connected in the generator field circuit so that the field circuit is completed through the contacts when they are closed and through

a resistor when the contacts are opened. When the voltage rises to a predetermined value, there is sufficient magnetism created by the regulator winding to pull the armature down. This opens the contacts and inserts resistance in the field circuit of the generator, thus reducing the field current. The generated voltage immediately drops which reduces the pull on the armature to the point where the spring closes the contacts. The output again rises and the cycle is repeated. These cycles occur at high enough frequencies to hold the generated voltage at a constant value and will continue as long as the voltage of the circuit is high enough to keep the voltage regulator in operation. With the addition of a current load great enough to lower the battery voltage below the operating voltage of the unit, the contacts will remain closed and the generator will maintain a charging rate as limited by its speed or the current limiting regulator. Due to the effect of heat on the operating characteristics of regulator windings, it is necessary to compensate for the changes in coil resistance when the regulator is operating under varying temperature conditions. This is accomplished through the use of a nickel iron magnetic by-pass on the voltage regulator unit. This shunt by-passes some of the magnetic flux when the unit is cold and allows most of the flux to act on the armature when the unit is hot. Thus, when the coil is hot and not as efficient, the magnetic shunt reduces the amount of flux needed to vibrate the armature. The compensation is usually more than enough to offset the changes in regulator coil resistance due to heat. The excess compensation allows the regulator to operate at higher voltages under cold operating conditions than under hot conditions. This is necessary as it requires a higher voltage to charge a battery with its internal resistance increased by low temperature.

Current-Limiting Regulator

The function of the current-limiting regulator is to limit the output of the generator to its maximum safe output. The electromagnet of the current regulator unit consists of a winding of heavy wire that is connected in series with the generator output. When the generator output reaches a predetermined value, the current in the winding produces enough magnetism to overcome the spring tension and pull the armature down. This opens the contacts and inserts resistance in the field circuit of the generator. With the field current reduced by the resistance, the generator output falls and there is no longer enough magnetism to hold the contacts open. As soon as the spring closes the contacts, the output rises and the cycle is repeated. These cycles occur at high enough frequencies to limit the output to a minimum fluctuation.

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VIBRATING CURRENT-VOLTAGE REGULATOR SPECIFICATIONS

(AUTO-LITE VBE-6010-A)

Volts Ground Polarity Carbon Resistors

Cutout Relay

Current Limiting Regulator

Temp. F. Amperes

Temp. F. Amperes Voltage Regulator

Temp. F. Volts

50º

7.41

60º

7.38

Positive Two used—R1 marked 38, Resistance 34.5 to 42 Ohms. R2 marked 7, Resistance 6.5 to 8 Ohms. Resistance of voltage windings 29.8 to 33 Ohms. Armature Air Gap .031" to .034". Contact Point Gap .015" Minimum. Contacts Close 6.3 to 6.8 Volts. Contacts Open 4.1 to 4.8 Volts after a charge of 23 Amperes. Armature Air Gap .048" to .052". Operating Amperage after 15 minutes run at 10 Amperes. 40° 60° 70° 80° 100° 55 Max. 53 Max. 52 Max. 51 Max. 49 Max. After an additional 15 minutes run on current regulator with voltage reduced .2 to .4 volts below the V.R. operating figure. 40° 60° 70° 80° 100° 46-50 44-48 43-47 42-46 40.44 Resistance of winding 10.8 to 12 Ohms. Armature Air Gap .048" to .052". Operating Voltage—Figures given for a unit in normal operation and charging at 23 Amperes. Allowable variation ± .15 Volts.

70º

7.35

80º

7.32

90º

7.29

100º

7.27

110º

7.24

120º

7.21

The current regulator unit is built with a bi-metal hinge on the armature. This hinge exerts an additional tension on the armature when the unit is cold and in- creases the current necessary to vibrate the contacts. This increases the available output when the generator and regulator are cold without danger of overheating under prolonged operation.

Operation Test

Check the wiring to see that it is properly connected to the generator. Make sure the generator operates correctly without the regulator in the circuit. Remove the armature and battery leads from the regulator and connect an ammeter between them. Remove the field lead from the regulator and while operating at idle speed, touch the field lead to the regulator base. Increase the speed slowly, noting the charging rate. DO NOT INCREASE THE OUTPUT ABOVE THE RATED OUTPUT OF THE GENERATOR. If the generator output will not build up, inspect the wiring harness for shorts and opens and remove the generator for an overhaul. Make sure the regulator is the correct type for use with the generator. Check the specific gravity and terminal voltage of the battery. If the battery is not up to specifications, substitute temporarily for test purposes a fully charged battery of the same type and capacity. Inspect the wiring between the generator, regulator,

and battery for broken wires and high resistance connections. Pay special attention to the ground connecLions at all three units. Connect a reliable ammeter with one ampere graduations in series with the regulator "B" terminal and the lead removed from this terminal. Run the generator at a medium speed and turn on lights or accessories until the ammeter shows one-half of the maximum charging rate. At this charging rate, measure the voltage drop between the following points using an accurate voltmeter graduated in .1 volt divisions. The voltmeter should not show a reading above the maximum noted.

Generator "A" terminal to regulator "A" terminal—.1 volt max. Generator "F" terminal to regulator "F" terminal-.05 volt max. Battery terminal to regulator "B" terminal— .1 volt max. Regulator ground screw to generator frame— .03 volt max. Regulator ground screw to battery ground post—.03 volt max. Generator frame to battery ground post—.03 volt max.

Circuit Breaker (End Unit—with Heavy Wire Winding)

Connect a reliable ammeter in series with the regulator "B" terminal and the lead removed from the terminal. Connect an accurate volt-

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ELECTRICAL

-meter from the regulator "A" terminal to the regulator base and place a reliable thermometer near the regulator (about 2" from the regulator cover but not touching the regulator). Disconnect the field lead from the regulator "F" terminal and insert a variable resistance (3 amp.-50 ohm capacity) between the lead and the regulator terminal. Run the generator at about 1000 generator R.P.M. Insert all the resistance in the field circuit. Then slowly reduce the resistance, noting the voltage reading just before the change caused by the closing of the circuit breaker. Increase the charging rate to the figure specified for the regulator being tested. Then reduce the charging rate by inserting resistance in the field circuit. Note the voltmeter and ammeter reading just before the circuit breaker opens and the ammeter reading drops to zero. The closing voltage and the opening voltage or current should be within the limits specified. An accurate method for noting the exact instant of opening or closing of the circuit breaker is to connect a headphone (2000 ohms or higher) to the battery and armature terminals of the regulator. When the contacts open or close, a click will be heard in the headphone. Before adjusting circuit breaker opening or closing voltage, check the armature air gap .031" to .034"; contacts should be open and the armature against the upper stop (Fig. 2). Measure the gap with the gauge as near to the hinge as possible. To adjust the closing voltage, change the armature spring tension by bending the hanger at the lower end of the spring (Fig. 3). Increase the spring tension to raise the closing voltage or decrease the tension to lower the voltage. To adjust the opening voltage, raise or lower the stationary contact keeping the contacts perfectly aligned (Fig. 4). Increasing the contact gap lowers the opening voltage. Change the contact gap by expanding or contracting the stationary contact bracket, keeping the contacts aligned. Do not adjust the gap between the contacts to less than the specified minimum.

FIGURE 2—Circuit Breaker Armature Stop. for

Control of Air Gap

Voltage Regulator (End Unit—with Fine Wire Winding)

Connect the ammeter as noted above and connect the voltmeter from the regulator "B" terminal to the regulator base. Remove the variable resistance from the field circuit. Operate the generator at one-half maximum output for 15 minutes to make sure the regulator is at normal operating temperature. Have the cover on the unit during this warm-up period and when taking readings. Stop the engine. Then bring it up to approximately 2500 generator R.P.M. Adjust the amperage to one- half maximum output by turning on lights or accessories and then

FIGURE 3—Adjusting the Circuit Breaker

Closing Voltage

note the voltmeter reading. This reading should be within the limits specified for the voltage regulator operation. Before adjusting operating voltage, check voltage relay armature air gap .048" to .052"; contacts should be closed with a high limit gauge in place (Fig. 5) and open with a low limit gauge on the contact side and next to the brass armature stop pin.

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to pick up the sound of the opening and closing of the contacts. The clicks should be regular and clear without irregularities or missing. If the tone is not clear and regular, remove the regulator cover and inspect the contacts. The contacts should be flat and not burned excessively and should be aligned to make full face contact. If the contacts require cleaning, refer to subject "Contacts."

Current Regulator (Center Unit—with Heavy Wire Winding)

Connect the regulator and instruments as described above for the voltage regulator and run the generator at approximately 3000 generator R.P.M. Turn on lights and accessories so that the generator must charge at its maximum rate. The ammeter should show a reading within the limits specified.

Before adjusting the operating amperage, check armature air gap .048" to '.052". Contacts should be closed with a high limit gauge in place (Fig.

5) and open with a low limit gauge on the contact side and next to the brass armature stop pin.

FIGURE 4—Adjusting the Circuit Breaker

Opening Voltage

FIGURE 5—Checking Voltage Relay Armature

Air Gap

To adjust the operating voltage, change the armature spring tension by bending the hanger at the lower end of the armature spring. After each adjustment stop the engine; then restart it. Bring it up to speed and adjust the current before taking a reading. In order to obtain an accurate indication of the operation of the voltage regulator unit, connect a headphone (2000 ohms or higher) between the "F" terminal and ground

to pick

To adjust the operating amperage, change the armature spring tension by bending the hanger at the lower end of the armature spring. After each adjustment. stop the engine; then restart it. Bring the engine up to speed and take an ammeter reading. Have the cover on the unit when taking readings.

In order to obtain an accurate indication of the operation of the current regulator unit connect a headphone (2000 ohms or higher) between the regulator "F" terminal and ground to pick up the sound of the opening and closing of the contacts. The clicks should be clear and regular without irregularities or missing. If the tone is not clear and regular, remove the regulator cover and inspect the contacts. The contacts should be flat and not burned excessively and should be aligned to make full face contact. If the contacts require cleaning, refer to subject "Contacts."

Contacts

Inspect the contacts on all three units. In normal use, the contacts will become gray in color. If the contacts are burned or dirty or if they are not smooth, file the contacts with a No. 6 American Swiss cut equalling file. Move the file parallel and lengthwise to the armature (Fig. 6).

File just enough so that the contacts present a smooth surface toward each other. It is not necessary to remove every trace of burning. After filing, dampen a piece of linen or lintless bond tape in refined carbon tetrachloride and draw the tape between the contacts. Repeat with a dry piece of tape. Use clean tape for each set of contacts.

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FIGURE 6—Cleaning Contact Points

Recheck

Operate the unit at one-half maximum output for 5 minutes with the cover on the regulator. Repeat the testing procedure for all

units as described in the preceding paragraphs. Be sure cover is on regulator when taking readings.

Quick Checks

LOW CHARGING RATE WITH A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY: A fully charged battery and a low charging rate indicates normal regulator operation. A further check of the regulator operation can be made by using the starting motor for 5 to 10 seconds with the ignition primary circuit open. Then start the engine and operate at a generator speed of 2500 to 3000 R.P.M. The charging rate should rise to its maximum value, then taper off to a minimum charge as the battery becomes charged. HIGH CHARGING RATE WITH A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY: This usually is an indication that the voltage regulator is not operating correctly. The high voltage will cause the battery to gas excessively and will shorten the life of the ignition contacts and in general will have a detrimental effect on all connected load. Connect an ammeter in series with the regulator "B" terminal and the lead removed from the terminal. Run the generator at a medium speed and perform the following operations. After each test is completed, reconnect whatever leads have been opened.

OPERATION EFFECT CAUSE AND REMEDY

Disconnect the field lead at the generator.

Disconnect the field lead at the regulator.

Remove the regulator cover and hold the voltage regulator contacts open.

Operate the units at one-half maximum output and measure the voltage drop from the regulator base to the generator frame.

Output should drop to zero. Output does not drop.

Voltage reading should be below .03 volts. Voltage reading above .03 volts.

Shorted field circuit in regulator or in wiring harness. See operation below. Shorted field in regulator. See operation below. Shorted wiring harness. Repair or replace wiring harness.

Regulator contacts sticking, regulator out of adjustment or regulator inoperative. Check for high resistance. Check operation. Clean contacts. Shorted field circuit in the regulator. Clean the regulator contacts and inspect the regulator visually for incorrect wiring between units and shorted leads.

Ground circuit O.K. Inspect ground circuit for poor connections and eliminate the high resistance.

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OPERATION EFFECT CAUSE AND REMEDY

Connect a headphone from the regulator field terminal to the base and hold the current regulator

A steady beat should be heard. An unsteady beat is heard. No beat is heard.

contacts closed.

LOW BATTERY AND A LOW OR NO CHARGING RATE: Check all wiring for loose connections, frayed insulation, and high resistance connections and correct any fault. Make sure the generator operates correctly without the regulator in the circuit. Remove the "A" and "B" leads from the regulator and connect an ammeter between them. Remove the field lead from the regulator and while operating at idle speed, touch the field lead to the regulator base. Increase the speed slowly, noting the charging rate. Do not increase the output above the rated output

OPERATION EFFECT CAUSE AND REMEDY

Read the voltmeter.

Voltage should build up. Voltage does not build up.

Voltage regulator operating. Reset regulator. Dirty or sticking contacts. Clean contacts. Inoperative voltage regulator unit. Remove regulator for an overhaul.

of the generator. If the generator output will not build up, inspect the wiring harness for shorts and opens and remove the generator for an overhaul.

Connect an ammeter between the battery lead and the regulator "B" terminal. Connect the field lead to the regulator "F" terminal and connect the armature lead to the regulator "A" terminal. Connect a voltmeter from the regulator "A" terminal to the regulator base. Operate the generator at a medium speed and perform the following tests:

Open series circuit. Regulator out of adjustment, field circuit open, grounded series circuit.

Remove the regulator cover and with the generator operating at a medium speed, hold the circuit breaker contacts closed.

Run the generator at idle speed and momentarily connect a jumper from the "F" terminal to the regulator base.

Operate at a medium speed with the jumper removed. Remove the regulator cover and hold the voltage regulator contacts closed.

Ammeter should indicate charge. No generator output.

Voltage should build up. Voltage does not build up.

Open circuit breaker shunt winding, incorrect setting of circuit breaker or dirty contacts. Clean contacts and reset circuit breaker. If there is still no charge, the series windings are open and the regulator should be removed for an overhaul. If the circuit breaker cannot be set, the shunt coil is open and the regulator should be removed for an overhaul.

Open field circuit or regulator out of adjustment. Grounded series circuit. Remove regulator for an overhaul.

Voltage regulator contacts burned or dirty or incorrect regulator setting. Clean the contacts and adjust the regulator. Test again. If the voltage still does not build up, see test operation below.

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ELECTRICAL

OPERATION EFFECT CAUSE AND REMEDY

Remove the regulator cover and hold the current regulator

Voltage should build up. Voltage does not build up.

contacts closed.

GENERATOR (DELCO-REMY)

"Rambler" Series

The Delco-Remy generator model 1102815 is used with Air Conditioning equipment and model 1100021 on the "Rambler" Series without Air Conditioning. The generators are a six volt 4.630 inch diameter frame size, two brush shunt unit with a ball bearing supporting the armature at the drive end and a bronze bushing in the commutator end. It is force draft ventilated by means of a fan mounted behind the drive pulley which rotates with the armature shaft. The generator output is regulated by the correct settings of the current and voltage regulator.

Lubrication

The two hinge cap oilers should be supplied with 10 to 20 drops of light engine oil every 5,000 miles of operation. Do not oil excessively. NEVER OIL COMMUTATOR.

Current regulator contacts burned or dirty or incorrect regulator setting. Clean the contacts and adjust the regulator. Test again. If the voltage still does not build up, remove the regulator for an overhaul.

Inspection

The generator should be removed and disassembled to inspect the commutator and brushes at regular intervals. If the commutator is dirty, it may be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. Blow out all dust after cleaning. NEVER USE EMERY CLOTH TO CLEAN COMMUTATOR. If the commutator is rough, out of round, or has high mica, it should be turned down in a lathe and the mica undercut %2". Worn brushes should be replaced. Brushes should be free in their holders. Check the brush spring tension which should be 28 ounces. At regular intervals, (actual mileage or time depending on the type of operation) the generator should be disassembled for a thorough cleaning and inspection of all parts. Never clean the armature or fields in any degreasing tank, or with grease dissolving materials, since these may damage the insulation. The ball bearing should be cleaned

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 8—Undercutting Mica

and repacked with a good grade of ball bearing grease. The commutator should be trued in a lathe and the mica undercut if necessary. All wiring and connections should be checked. Rosin flux should be used in making soldered connections. Acid flux must never be used on electrical connections.

Checking Inoperative Generator

Several conditions which may require removal of the generator from the engine and further checking of the generator are no output, unsteady or low output, excessive output or noisy generator.

No Output

Remove the generator, disassemble, and check for sticking or worn brushes and burned commutator bars. Burned bars, with other bars fairly clean, indicate open circuited armature coils. Then reassemble the generator. If the brushes are making a good contact with the commutator and the coinmutator appears satisfactory, use test leads and continuity light and check as follows:

Raise ground brush through cooling vent openings. Check with test points from "A" terminal to frame. Light should not light. If it does, the generator is grounded; raise the other brush from commutator and check field commutator and brush holder to locate ground. If generator is not grounded, check field

for open circuit. If the field is not open, check for shorted field. Field draw at six volts, 80° temperature should be 1.87 to 2.00 amperes on Model 1102815 and 1.85 to 2.03 amperes on Model 1100021. Excessive current draw indicates a shorted field.

If trouble has not been located, remove the armature and check on growler for short circuit.

Unsteady or Low Output

Check as follows: Check drive belt tension. Check brush spring tension and brushes for sticking.

Inspect commutator for roughness, grease and dirt, dirt in slots, high mica, out of round, or burned bars. With any of these conditions, the commutator must be turned down in a lathe and mica undercut. In addition, when burned bars indicate an open circuit, the open circuit condition must be eliminated or the armature replaced.

Excessive Output

Excessive output usually results from grounded generator field—grounded either internally or in the regulator. Opening the field circuit (disconnecting lead from "F" terminal of regulator or generator) with the generator operating at a medium speed, will determine which unit is at fault. If the output drops off, the regulator is causing the condition. If the output remains high, the field is grounded in the generator either at the pole shoes, leads, or at the "F" terminal.

Noisy Generator

Noisy generator may be caused by loose mounting or drive pulley, worn, dry, or dirty bearings, or improperly seated brushes. Installation Caution After the generator is reinstalled on the engine, or at any time after leads have been disconnected and then reconnected to the generator, a jumper lead should be connected MOMENTARILY between the BATTERY and ARMATURE terminals of the regulator before starting the engine. This allows a momentary surge of current from the battery to the generator which correctly polarizes the generator with respect to the battery it is to charge.

Generator Specifications

Delco-Remy Generator Model 1102815

Armature rotation—clockwise viewing the drive end 45 amperes at 8.0 volts at 2450 Generator R.P.M. (maximum output controlled by setting of current regulator unit). Brush spring tension-28 ounces. Field current at six volts (at 80°F.) 1.87 to 2.00 amperes.

Delco-Remy Model 1100021

Armature rotation—Clockwise viewing the drive end —35 amperes at 8.0 volts at 2650 Generator R.P.M. (maximum output controlled by setting of current regulator unit). Brush spring tension-28 ounces. Field current at six volts (at 80°F.) 1.85 to 2.03 amperes.

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CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATORS (Delco-Remy)

The Delco-Remy Models 1118828 and 1118841 (six volt) current and voltage regulators (Fig. 9) are designed for operation with a positive grounded battery and have the following specifications:

FIGURE 9—Current and Voltage Regulator

Specifications "Rambler" Series with Air Conditioning (Delco-Remy Model 1118828)

Cut-Out Relay

Air Gap .020" Point Spacing .020" *Closing Voltage Range 5.9-6.7 Volts Adjust to 6.4 Volts

Voltage Regulator

Air Gap .075" *Voltage Setting Range 6.9-7.4 Volts Adjust to 7.2 Volts

NOTE: Adjustment need not be made if check

shows value within range given. When adjustment is necessary, adjust to specified value.

*Current and voltage specifications apply

only at operating temperatures. Operating temperature shall be assumed to exist after not less than 15 minutes of continuous operation with a charge rate of 8 to 10 amperes.

Construction and Operation (Delco-Remy Current and Voltage Regulators)

The regulator (Fig. 9) consists of a cut-out relay, a voltage regulator, and a current regulator unit. The cutout relay closes the generator-to-battery circuit when the generator voltage is sufficient to charge the battery. and it opens the circuit when the generator slows down or stops. The voltage regulator unit is a voltage-limiting device that prevents the system voltage from exceeding a specified maximum and thus protects the battery and other voltage-sensitive equipment. The current regulator unit is a current-limiting device that limits the generator output so as not to exceed its rated maximum. Figure 10 is a wiring diagram of this regulator in the charging circuit.

Current Regulator

Air Gap .075" *Current Setting Range 42-47 Amperes Adjust to 45 Amperes

Voltage Regulator

Air Gap .075"

*Voltage Setting Range 6.9-7.4 Volts

Adjust to 7.2 Volts

"Rambler" Series without Air Conditioning (Delco-Remy Model 1118841)

Cut-Out Relay

Air Gap .020" Point Spacing .020" *Closing Voltage Range 5.9-6.7 Volts Adjust to 6.4 Volts

Current Regulator

Air Gap .075" *Current Setting Range 34-39 Amperes Adjust to 38 Amperes

FIGURE 10— Schematic Drawing of Charging

Circuit

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

Cut-Out Relay

The cut-out relay has two windings, a series winding of a few turns of heavy wire and a shunt winding of many turns of fine wire. The shunt winding is connected across the generator so that generator voltage is impressed upon it at all times. The series winding is connected in series with the charging circuit so that all generator output passes through it. The relay core and windings are assembled into a frame. A flat steel armature is attached to the frame by a flexible hinge so that it is centered just above the end of the core. The armature contact points are located just above the stationary contact points. When the generator is not operating, the armature contact points are held away from the stationary points by the tension of a flat spring riveted on the side of the armature.

Cut-Out Relay Action

When the generator voltage builds up a value great enough to charge the battery, the magnetism induced by the relay windings is sufficient to pull the armature toward the core so that the contact points close. This completes the circuit between the generator and battery. The current which flows from the generator to the battery passes through the series winding in a direction to add to the magnetism holding the armature down and the contact points closed. When the generator slows down or stops, current begins to flow from the battery to the generator. This reverse flow of current through the series winding causes a reversal of the series winding magnetic field. The magnetic field of the shunt winding does not reverse. Therefore, instead of helping each other, the two windings now magnetically oppose so that the resultant magnetic field becomes insufficient to hold the armature down. The flat spring pulls the armature away from the core so that the points separate; this opens the circuit between the generator and battery.

Voltage Regulator

The voltage regulator unit has a shunt winding consisting of many turns of fine wire which is connected across the generator. The winding and core are assembled into a frame. A flat steel armature is attached to the frame-by a flexible hinge so that it is just above the end of the core. The armature contains a contact point which is just beneath a stationary contact point. When the voltage regulator unit is not operating, the tension of a spiral spring holds the armature away from the core so that the points are in contact and the generator field circuit is completed to ground through them.

Voltage Regulator Action

When the generator voltage reaches the value for which the voltage regulator unit is adjusted, the magnetic field produced by the winding overcomes

the armature spring tension, pulls the armature down, and the contact points separate. This inserts resistance into the generator field circuit. The generator field current and voltage are reduced. Reduction of the generator voltage reduces the magnetic field of the regulator shunt winding. The result is that the magnetic field is weakened enough to allow the spiral spring to pull the armature away from the core, and the contact points again close. This directly grounds the generator field circuit, causing generator voltage and output to increase. The above cycle of action again takes place, and the cycle continues at a rate of many times a second, regulating the voltage to a predetermined value.

Current Regulator

The current regulator has a series winding of a few turns of heavy wire which carries all generator output. The winding and core are assembled into a frame. A flat steel armature is attached to the frame by a flexible hinge so that it is just above the core. The armature has a contact point which is just below a stationary contact point. When the current regulator is not operating, the tension of a spiral spring holds the armature away from the core so that the points are in contact. In this position, the generator field circuit is completed to ground through the current regulator contact points in series with the voltage regulator contact points.

Current Regulator Action

When the generator output reaches the value for which the current regulator is set, the magnetic pull of the winding overcomes armature spring tension, pulls the armature down and opens the contact points. This inserts a resistance into the generator field circuit. The generator output and field current are reduced. Reduction of the current output reduces the magnetic field of the current regulator winding. The result is that the magnetic field is weakened enough to allow the spiral spring to pull the armature up and the contact points close again. This directly grounds the generator field circuit, causing the generator output to again increase. This cycle is repeated many times a second, limiting the generator output so as not to exceed its rated maximum.

Resistances

The current and voltage regulator unit circuits use two common resistors. One is inserted in the field circuit when either the current or voltage regulator unit operates. The second resistor is connected between the regulator FIELD terminal and the cut-out relay frame, which places it in parallel electrically with the generator field coils. The sudden reduction in field current occurring when either the current or voltage regulator contact points open, is accompanied by a surge of induced voltage in the field coils as the strength of the

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ELECTRICAL

magnetic field changes. These surges are partially dissipated by the two resistors, thus preventing excessive arcing at the contact points.

Regulator Polarity

Some regulators are designed for use with negative grounded batteries while other regulators are designed for use with positive grounded batteries. Using the wrong polarity regulator on an installation will cause the regulator contact points to pit badly and give very short life. As a safeguard against installation of the wrong polarity regulator, regulators designed for positive grounded systems have copper plated current and voltage regulator armatures while regulators for negative grounded systems have cadmium plated armatures.

Regulator Maintenance

Mechanical checks and adjustments (air gaps, point spacing) must be made with battery disconnected and regulator preferably off the vehicle.

CAUTION: The cut-out relay contact points

must never be closed by hand with the battery connected to the regulator. This would cause a high current to flow through the units which would seriously damage them.

Electrical checks and adjustments may be made either on or off the vehicle. The regulator must always be operated with the type generator for which it was designed. The regulator must be mounted in the operating position when electrical settings are checked and adjusted, and it must be at operating temperature. After regulator removal for any tests or adjustments, the generator on the vehicle must be repolarized after leads are connected but before the engine is started as follows:

Repolarizing Generator

After reconnecting leads, momentarily connect a jumper lead between the "Gen" and "Bat" terminals of the regulator. This allows a momentary surge of current to flow through the generator which correctly polarizes it. Failure to do this may result in severe damage to the equipment since reversed polarity causes vibration, arcing, and burning of the relay contact points.

Quick Checks of Generator and Regulator

In analyzing complaints of generator-regulator operation, any of several basic conditions may be found:

FULLY CHARGED BATTERY AND LOW CHARGING RATE: This indicates normal generator- regulator operation. Regulator settings may be checked as outlined in the following sections.

FULLY CHARGED BATTERY AND A HIGH CHARGING RATE:

This indicates that the voltage regulator is not reducing the generator output as it should. A high charging rate to a fully charged battery will damage the battery, and the accompanying high voltage is very injurious to all electrical units. This operating condition may result from—

Improper voltage regulator setting. Defective voltage regulator unit. Grounded generator field circuit (in either generator, regulator, or wiring) . Poor ground connection at regulator. High temperature which reduces the resistance of the battery to charge so that it will accept a higher charging rate even though the voltage regulator setting is normal. If the trouble is not due to high temperature, determine the cause of trouble by disconnecting the lead from the regulator "F" terminal with the generator operating at medium speed. If the output remains high, the generator field is grounded either in the generator or in the wiring harness. If the output drops off, the regulator is at fault and should be checked for a high voltage setting or grounds.

LOW BATTERY AND HIGH CHARGING RATE: This is normal generator-regulator action.

Regulator settings may be checked as outlined in the following sections.

LOW BATTERY AND LOW OR NO CHARGING RATE: This condition could be due to—

Loose connections, frayed, or damaged wires. Defective Battery. High circuit resistance. Low regulator setting. Oxidized regulator contact points. Defects within the generator. If the condition is not caused by loose connections, frayed, or damaged wires, proceed as follows: To determine whether the generator or regulator is at fault, momentarily ground the "F" terminal of the regulator and increase generator speed. If the output does not increase, the generator is probably at fault and it should be checked. If the generator output increases, the trouble is due to: A low voltage (or current) regulator setting. Oxidized regulator contact points which insert excessive resistance into the generator field circuit so that output remains low. Generator field circuit open within the regulator at the connection or in the regulator winding.

BURNED RESISTANCES, WINDINGS, OR CONTACTS: These result from open circuit

operation or high resistance in the charging circuit. Where burned resistances, windings, or contacts are found,

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always check car wiring before installing a new regulator. Otherwise the new regulator may also fail in the same way.

BURNED RELAY CONTACT POINTS: This is due to reversed generator polarity. Generator polarity must be corrected after any checks of the regulator or generator, or after disconnecting and reconnecting leads.

Cleaning Contact Points

The contact points of a regulator will not operate indefinitely without some attention. It has been found that a great majority of all regulator trouble can be eliminated by a simple cleaning of the contact points plus some possible readjustment. The flat points should be cleaned with a spoon or riffler file. The flat point is in the upper contact bracket so the bracket must be removed for cleaning the points. A flat file cannot be used successfully to clean the flat contact points since it will not touch the center of the flat point where point wear is most apt to occur. NEVER USE EMERY CLOTH OR SANDPAPER TO CLEAN THE CONTACT POINTS.

Air Gap—Push down on armature until contact points are just touching. Measure air gap between armature and winding core (Fig. 12). Adjust by loosening contact mounting screws and raising or lowering contact mounting bracket as required. Be sure the contact points are aligned and screws securely tightened after adjustment.

FIGURE 12— Voltage Regulator Air Gap Check

and Adjustment

Voltage Setting—Fixed 1/4 Ohm Resistance Method

FIGURE 11—Cleaning Contact Points

Current and Voltage Regulator Check and Adjustments

Procedure: For best results, the following steps should be taken in the sequence given. (1) Bring voltage regulator to operating temperature, (2) Check voltage regulator, (3) Check cut-out relay, (4) Bring current regulator to operating temperature, (5) Check current regulator.

Connect a 1/4 ohm fixed resistor (not less than 25 watts) into the charging circuit at "Bat" terminal of regulator (in series with battery) as in Figure 13. Connect a voltmeter from regulator "Bat" terminal to ground. Operate generator at specified speed for 15 minutes. Regulator cover must be in place. (Regulator may now be considered to be at operating temperature.)

Voltage Regulator Check and Adjustments

Two checks and adjustments are required on the voltage regulator: Air gap and voltage setting

FIGURE 13—Fixed Resistance and Voltmeter

Connections to Check Voltage

Regulator Settings

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ELECTRICAL

NOTE: IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO MEASURE THE AMOUNT OF CURRENT FLOWING DURING TESTING AND ADJUSTING. HOWEVER, IT IS IMPORTANT THAT NO ELECTRICAL LOAD OTHER THAN IGNITION BE ON DURING TEST.

Cycle the Generator

Method A-Move voltmeter lead from "Bat" to "Gen" terminal of regulator. Retard generator speed until generator voltage is reduced to 2 volts. Move voltmeter lead back to "Bat" terminal of regulator. Bring generator back to specified speed and note voltage setting. Method B—Connect a variable resistance into the field circuit, as in Figure 18. Turn out all resistance. Operate generator at specified speed. Slowly increase (turn in) resistance until generator voltage is reduced to 2 volts. Turn off all resistance again and note voltage setting (with voltmeter connected as in Figure 13. Regulator cover must be in place. To adjust voltage setting, turn adjusting screw (Fig. 14). Turn clockwise to increase setting and counterclockwise to decrease voltage setting.

head. Final setting of the unit should always be made by increasing spring tension, never by reducing it. If setting is too high, adjust unit below required value and then raise to exact setting by increasing spring tension. After each adjustment and before taking reading, replace the regulator cover and cycle the generator.

Voltage Setting Variable Resistance Method

Connect a variable resistance (not less than 25 watts) and an ammeter into the charging circuit (in series with battery) at "Bat" terminal of regulator as in Fig 15.

FIGURE 14—Adjusting Voltage Regulator

Setting

CAUTION: If adjusting screw is turned down (clockwise) beyond range, spring support may not return when screw is backed off. In such case, turn screw counterclockwise until there is ample clearance between screw head and spring support. Then bend spring support up carefully until it touches the screw

FIGURE 15—Checking Voltage Regulator with

Variable Resistance Method

Connect a voltmeter from regulator "Bat" terminal to ground (Fig. 15). Start generator and adjust variable resistance to obtain a current flow of not more than 10 amperes. Operate the generator at specified speed for 15 minutes. Regulator cover must be in place. (Regulator may now be considered to be at operating temperature.) Cycle the generator as explained in "Fixed 1/4 Ohm Resistance Method." Adjust voltage setting as necessary, as explained in "Fixed 1/4 Ohm Resistance Method."

Cut-Out Relay Checks and Adjustments

The cut-out relay requires three checks and adjustments: Air gap, point spacing and closing voltage. Air gap and point spacing must be made with the battery lead disconnnected from the regulator. Air Gap—Place fingers on armature directly above core, move armature down until points just close. Measure air gap between armature and center of core (Fig. 16). Make sure that the points close simultaneously. Adjust air gap by adjusting two screws in back of relay and raise or lower armature as required. Tighten screws after adjustment.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 16— Cut-out Relay Air Gap Check and

Adjustment. Battery Must be Disconnected

When this Check is Made

Point Spacing—Check point spacing and adjust by bending the upper armature stop (Fig. 17).

FIGURE 18— Voltmeter Connections to Check

Cut-out Relay Closing Voltage. Variable

Resistance may be Connected as Shown

for Cycling Generator

FIGURE 17—Checking Circuit Breaker Point

Opening

Closing Voltage—Connect regulator to proper generator and battery. Connect voltmeter between the regulator "Gen" terminal and ground (Fig. 18). Alternate Method: Connect as above but in addition add a variable resistor, 15 ohm-25 watt connected, into the field circuit (Fig.

18). Operate generator at medium speed with variable resistance all in. Slowly decrease (turn out) at the resistance until cut-out relay points close. Note closing voltage. Slowly increase (turn in) resistance to make sure points open. Adjust closing voltage by turning adjusting screw (Fig. 19). Turn screw clockwise to increase setting and counterclockwise to decrease setting.

FIGURE 19— Adjustment of Cut-o ut

Relay Closing Voltage

Current Regulator

Two checks and adjustments are required on the current regulator: Air gap and current setting. Air Gap—Check and adjust in exactly the same manner as for the voltage regulator. Current Setting—To check current regulator setting, the voltage regulator unit must be prevented from operating. Several methods for preventing the voltage regulator from operating

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are available. Regardless of the method used, connect an ammeter into the charging circuit at the regulator "Bat" terminal. The first method listed below should be used for preliminary checks wherever possible since it does not require removal of the regulator cover. The various methods are as follows:

Quick Check Method

Connect ammeter into charging circuit. Turn on all lights and accessories. Operate generator at specified speed for 15 minutes with cover in place. (This establishes operating temperature.) Insert screw driver blade through hole in regulator base (Fig. 20). This shorts out the voltage regulator. (Hold screw driver firmly with blade touching regulator base and shield at same time.) Cycle generator and note current setting. Adjust as described for the voltage regulator (Fig. 14).

Adjust as described for the voltage regulator (Fig. 14).

Adapting Voltage Regulator Setting For Unusual Conditions

The voltage regulator setting must often be "tailored" to adapt it to the battery and type of service. The ideal setting is that which will keep the battery at or near full charge, with the minimum use of water. The normal setting (value shown in test specifications) will be right for the average service. But if service is above or below average, the setting may be tailored to fit the operation. Either one of two conditions which may exist will require tailoring: Battery is being overcharged (using too much water) ; Battery remains undercharged (3/4 charge or less).

If the battery is being overcharged, the voltage setting is too high. Reduce the setting about .1 or .2 of a volt at a time and check for improved condition. It rarely will be necessary to lower voltage below 6.9 volts on a 6-volt system.

CAUTION: Whenever the voltage setting

is reduced, the cut-out relay must also be checked and reduced if necessary. It must be at least 5 volt less than voltage regulator setting.

If the battery is consistently undercharged, the voltage setting may be too low. Increase .1 volt at a time and check for improved condition. It rarely will be necessary to increase voltage more than 7.5. Always he cautious when increasing voltage because of the danger to lights and other accessories during cold weather operation.

NOTE: Always make sure that the rubber

gasket is in place between the cover and base before replacing the cover. The gasket prevents entrance of moisture, dust, and oil vapors which might damage the regulator.

Before tailoring the voltage setting for either condition, be sure the battery is normal, not sulphated, not permanently damaged due to having been overheated, not operating in too hot a location, or insufficient ventilation.

FIGURE 20—Quick Check Method for Cutting

Out Voltage Regulator in Order to Check

Current Regulator Setting

Load Method

Connect ammeter into charging circuit. Place load across battery about equal to current regulator setting. Load may be a carbon pile or bank of lights. Operate generator at specified speed for 15 minutes with cover in place. Cycle generator and note current setting.

Temperature Compensation

Voltage regulators are compensated for temperature by means of a bi-metal thermostatic hinge on the armature. This causes the regulator to regulate at a higher voltage when cold which partly compensates for the fact that a higher voltage is required to charge a cold battery.

Reversed Polarity

If the polarity of the generator is reversed, the cut-out relay contact points will vibrate and burn. To make sure the generator has the correct polarity, after reconnecting regulator

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

connecting regulator, momentarily connect a jumper lead between the "Gen" and "Bat" terminals BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE. The momentary surge of battery current to the generator will correctly polarize the generator.

Radio By-Pass Condensers

The installation of radio by-pass condensers on the field terminal of the regulator or generator will cause the current and voltage regulator contacts to oxidize. Oxidized points cause a high resistance and may result in a low charging rate and a discharged battery. DO NOT CONNECT RADIO BY-PASS CONDENSERS TO THE FIELD TERMINAL OF THE REGULATOR OR GENERATOR. If a condenser has been installed on the field terminal, disconnect the condenser and clean the contact points of both the current and the voltage regulator.

STARTER MOTORS (AUTO-LITE)

The following Auto-Lite Model Starting Motors are four pole, four brush units equipped with a Bendix type inboard type drive on Standard and Overdrive transmission and outboard type drive on Automatic transmission equipped units.

Model Series Type Transmission Number

"Hornet" V-8 Ultramatic MCL-6132

"Hornet" 6 Standard and Overdrive MCH-6109 Hydra-Matic MCH-6306 "Wasp" Standard and Overdrive MZ-4167 Hydra-Matic MZ-4172

Auto-Lite Starting Motor Specifications

Model

No Load Test

Amperes Volts R.P.M

Lock Test

Amperes Volts R.P.M

Brush Spring

Tension

Maintenance Procedure

A periodic inspection should be made of the starting circuit. While the interval between these checks will vary according to the type of service, it should, under normal conditions, be made every 5000 miles. At this check the following points should be inspected. The starting circuit should be inspected to be sure all connections are clean and tight and that the insulation

MCH-6306 MCH-6109

5.5

4900

335

2.0

6 Ft. Lbs.

42-53 Ozs. 42-53 Ozs. 42-53 Ozs.

MZ-4172 MZ-4167 MCL=6132

5.5

4300

280

2.0

4.4 Ft. Lbs

5.0

4900

410

2.0

8 Ft. Lbs.

FIGURE 21—V-8 Series Starting Motor (Ultramatic Transmission)

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ELECTRICAL

on the wires is not worn or damaged. The starting circuit should be given a voltage loss test to make sure there is no loss of starting motor efficiency due to high resistance connections. In making this check, the voltage loss from the battery terminal to the starting motor terminal should not exceed .30 volts maximum for each 100 amperes. The loss in voltage between the battery ground post and the starting motor frame should not exceed .10 volts maximum for each 100 amperes. If the voltage loss is greater than the above limits, the voltage should be measured over each part of the circuit to locate the resistance causing voltage

loss.

If the commutator is dirty or discolored, it can be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. Blow the sand out of the motor after cleaning.

Should the commutator be rough or worn, the motor should be removed from the engine for cleaning and reconditioning.

The brushes should slide freely in their holders and make full contact on the commutator. Worn brushes should be replaced.

No on-the-car lubrication is required.

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

Overhaul Procedure

At periodic intervals, the starting motor circuit should he thoroughly checked and the motor removed from the engine for cleaning and checking.

Disassembly

When disassembling the motor, each part should be removed and cleaned and inspected for wear or damage. The drive should be cleaned and inspected for wear. Bearings should be checked for proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be free from oil and in good condition. The armature, field coils and brushes should be checked for grounds or open circuits.

Brushes

The brushes should slide freely in their holders and make full contact on the commutator. Worn brushes should be replaced. Brushes that are soldered to the field coil lead should be unsoldered and have the loop in the field coil lead opened. The new brush pigtail should be inserted to its full depth in the loop and then clinched before resoldering. A good soldering must be done to insure no loss of starting motor efficiency due to a poor contact. Brush spring tension should be checked with a spring scale. To check the tension of reaction type brush springs, hook the scale under the brush spring near the brush and pull on a line parallel with the side of the brush. Take the reading just as the spring leaves the brush. If the brush spring tension is too low, there will be a loss of efficiency due to poor brush contact. If the tension is too great, the commutator and brushes will wear excessively and have short life. It is, therefore, important that the brush spring tension be kept within 42 to 53 ounces. To change the spring tension twist the spring at the holder with long nosed pliers.

Armature

Check the commutator for wear or discoloration. If the commutator is only slightly dirty or discolored, it can be cleaned with Nos. 00 and 000 sandpaper. Blow the sand out of the motor after cleaning the commutator. If the commutator is rough or worn, the armature should be removed and the commutator turned down in a lathe. The armature should be visually inspected for mechanical defects before being checked for shorted or grounded coils. For testing armature circuits, it is advisable to use a set of test probes. To test the armature for grounds, touch one point to a commutator segment, and - touch the core or shaft with the other probe. Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or to the brush surface as the arc formed will burn the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil connected to the commutator segment is

grounded. To test for shorted armature coils, a growler is necessary. The armature is placed against the core and a steel strip held on the armature. The armature is then rotated slowly by hand. If a shorted coil is present, the steel strip will become magnetized and vibrate.

Field Coils

Using test probes, check the field coils for grounds. To test for grounds, place one probe on the motor frame or pole piece and touch the other probe to the field coil terminals. If a ground is present, the lamp will light. Inspect all connections to make sure they are proper. ly clinched and soldered. Inspect the insulation for evidence of damage.

Brush Holder Inspection

Using test probes, touch each insulated brush holder with one probe and a convenient ground on the commutator end head with the other probe. If the lamp lights, it indicates a grounded brush holder.

Pinion Housing

Inspect housing for cracks and bearing for wear. Assembly When assembling absorbent bronze bearings, always use the proper size arbor as these arbors are designed to give the proper bearing fit. Soak the bearing in oil before assembling in the bearing bore. The pinion end of the armature shaft should be given a light wipe with very light oil when assembling. Brushes should be correctly installed and connected as previously outlined in order to be sure of proper starting motor efficiency. Proper brush seating should be insured by sanding the brush to fit the commutator. To sand the brush, wrap a strip of No. 00 sandpaper around the commutator and turn the armature slowly in the direction of rotation. Blow the sand out of the motor after sanding.

Lubrication

When the starting motor is overhauled, the bearings should be soaked in oil and the bearing seats should be given a light wipe of oil.

Bench Test

The motor should first be checked to see that the free running voltage and current are within specifications. To test, connect the motor to a battery, ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high, check the bearing alignment and end play to make sure there is no binding or interference. Using a spring scale and torque arm, check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated cranking power. The stall torque will be the product of the spring scale reading and

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ELECTRICAL

the spring scale reading and the length of the arm in feet. If the torque is not up to specifications, check the seating of the brushes on the commutator and the internal connections of the motor for high resistance. The Bendix should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under "no load".

Over-Running

"Hornet" V-8 Series

Do not dip the in solvent as it cannot be repacked with grease. Clean with cloth dampened in cleaning solvent. Install the on the shaft and make sure it slides easily without binding. Turn the pinion which should rotate smoothly, though not necessarily freely. Reverse the direction of turning a few times. The should instantly lock and unlock. Replace the if it does not act as described or if the pinion is worn or damaged.

Pinion and Switch Adjustments

"Hornet" V-8 Series

With the pinion at rest, measure the distance from the face of the mounting flange to the outer edge of the pinion. This distance should be .834" to .984". Adjust by installing thrust washers on the armature shaft making sure the armature end play is kept between .005" and .030". Apply voltage to the switch to shift the pinion into the full mesh position and measure the clearance between the pinion and the pinion stop. Adjust to 3/32" ± 1/64" by screwing the switch plunger link screw in or out as required. This adjustment is important as incorrect pinion position can cause insufficient meshing or pounding of the stop and failure of the switch contacts to properly close.

Starting Switch Relay

"Hornet" V-8 Series

Inspect the control wiring between battery, switch and switch relay (Auto-Lite Model HRW 4001A) for breaks, loose terminals and worn insulation. Tighten all connections and make sure the switch is firmly mounted and makes a good ground connection. Check the voltage drop across the switch during normal starting. If the drop is in excess of .20 volts per 100 amperes (Approximately .25 to .50 volts during normal starting) replace the switch. If the switch does not close and open properly when the control button is operated, remove the switch and check its closing and opening voltages on the test bench. Contacts close 1.5 to 3.0 Volts. Contacts open 0.5 min. Volts.

Engaging Solenoid

"Hornet" V-8 Series

The over-running engaging solenoid (mounted

(mounted on the starting motor) specifications are: Pull in coil 31.5 to 36.0 amperes at 3.0 volts. Hold in coil 8.8 to 10.1 amperes at

3.0 volts.

Starting Switch Solenoid

"Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

Inspect the control wiring between battery, ignition switch, and solenoid for breaks, loose terminals, and worn insulation. Tighten all connections. Be sure the switch is firmly mounted and makes a good ground connection. Check the voltage drop across the solenoid switch during normal starting. If the drop is in excess of .20 volts per 100 amperes (approximately .25 to 1.00 volts during normal starting) replace the switch. If the switch does not close and open properly when the ignition switch is operated, remove the switch and check its closing and opening voltages. Contacts close 3.5 to 4.5 volts. Coil resistance 1.1 ohms plus or minus 8% at 20°C. (68°F.).

STARTER MOTORS (DELCO-REMY)

"Rambler" Series

The "Rambler" Series starting motors are a DelcoRemy Model 1107119 used with standard and overdrive transmission, and Model 1107136 with HydraMatic transmission. They have a no-load speed of 5500 R.P.M. at 70 amperes at 5.65 volts. They develop 11 foot pounds torque at 550 amperes at 3.25 volts. They are four pole, two field, six volt units. The armature rotates in a bronze bushing at the commutator end and in pinion housing. The starting motors are lubricated by a hinge cap oiler located on the drive end frame. Every 5000 miles this oiler should be given eight to ten drops of light engine oil. Whenever the starting motor is disassembled or removed from the engine, the oilless bushing in the commutator end should be supplied with a few drops of light engine oil. The starting motor used with the HydraMatic transmission differs only in the length of the starting motor pinion teeth and solenoid switch control from the standard or overdrive transmission starting motor.

Starting Motor Maintenance (Delco-Remy)

Starting motor maintenance may be divided into two sections: normal maintenance, required to assure continued operation of the starting motor, and the checking and repair of inoperative units. INSPECTION: The cover band should be removed and the commutator and brushes inspected at regular intervals. If the commutator is dirty, it may be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. Blow out dust. Never use emery cloth to clean commutator. If the commutator is rough, out of round, or has high mica, it should be turned down on a lathe. The mica should be undercut to a depth of %2 of an inch. Worn brushes should be

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 24— "Rambler" Series Starting Motor (Regular or Overdrive Transmission)

replaced. If brushes wear rapidly, check for excessive brush tension and roughness or high mica on the commutator. Brush spring tension should be from 24 to 28 ounces.

Starting Motor Disassembly

At regular intervals, (the actual time depending on the type of operation) the starting motor should be disassembled for a thorough cleaning and inspection of all parts. The Bendix drive should be cleaned and oiled with a penetrating oil as any accumulation of dirt on the drive might restrict the free movement of the pinion. Never clean the armature or fields in any degreasing tank, or grease dissolving materials, since these may damage the insulation. The commutator should be trued in a lathe if necessary. Replace all parts showing excessive wear. All wiring connections should be checked. Rosin flux should be used in making soldered connections. Acid flux must never be used on electrical connections. Submit reassembled unit to NO-LOAD and LOCK tests.

Checking of Improperly Operating Starting Motor

If the starting motor does not develop rated torque and cranks the engine slowly or not at all, check the battery, battery terminals and connections, and battery cables. Corroded, frayed, ,or broken cables should be replaced and loose or dirty connections corrected. The starting motor switch should be checked for burned contacts and the switch replaced if necessary. If all these are in order, remove the cover

band of the starting motor and inspect the brushes and commutator. The brushes should form good contact with the correct brush spring tension. A dirty commutator can be cleaned with a strip of No. 00 sandpaper held against the commutator with a stick while the starting motor operates. NEVER USE EMERY CLOTH TO CLEAN COMMUTATOR. If the commutator is very dirty, or burned, or has high mica, remove the armature from the cranking motor and take a cut off the commutator in a lathe. The mica should be undercut to a depth of 1/32". If there are burned bars on the commutator, it may indicate open circuited armature coils which will prevent proper cranking. Inspect the soldered connections at the commutator riser bars. An open armature will show excessive arcing at the commutator bar which is open on the no-load test. Tight or dirty bearings will reduce armature speed or prevent the armature from turning. A worn bearing, bent shaft, or loose field pole screws will allow the armature to drag on the pole shoes causing slow speed or failure of the armature to revolve. Check for these conditions. If the brushes, brush spring tension, and commutator appear in good condition, the battery and external circuit found satisfactory, and the starting motor still does not operate correctly, it will be necessary to remove the starting motor for no-load and torque checks. NO-LOAD TEST: Connect the starting motor in series with a battery of the specified voltage and an ammeter capable of reading several hundreds amperes. If an R.P.M. indicator is available, read the armature

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ELECTRICAL

R.P.M. in addition to the current draw. TORQUE TEST: It is advisable to use a high current carrying variable resistance in the circuit so that the specified voltage at the motor can be obtained. A small variation of the voltage will produce a marked difference in the torque developed.

Interpreting Results of No-Load and Torque Tests

Rated torque, current draw, and no-load speed indicates normal condition of starting motor. Low free speed and high current draw with low developed torque may result from:

Tight, dirty, or worn bearings, bent

armature shaft, or loose field pole screws which would allow the armature to drag.

Shorted armature. Check armature further

on growler.

A grounded armature or field. Check by

raising the grounded brushes and insulating them from the commutator with cardboard and then checking with a test lamp between the insulated terminal and frame. If test lamp lights, raise other brushes from commutator and check fields and commutator separately to determine whether it is the fields or armature that is grounded.

Failure to operate with high current draw:

A direct ground in the switch, terminal, or fields. Frozen shaft bearings which prevent the armature from turning. Failure to operate with no current draw: Open field circuit. Inspect internal connections, and trace circuit with a test lamp. Open armature coils. Inspect the commutator for badly burned bars. An open armature will show excessive arcing at the commutator bar which is open when running free speed. Broken or weakened brush springs, worn brushes, high mica on the commutator, or other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and commutator. Any of these conditions will cause burned commutator bars.

Low no-load speed with low torque and low current draw indicates:

An open field winding. Raise and insulate ungrounded brushes from commutator and check fields with test lamp. High internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator, and causes listed under "Failure to

operate with high current draw." High free speed with low developed torque and high current draw indicates:

Shorted fields. There is no easy way to detect shorted fields since the field resistance is already low. If shorted fields are suspected, replace the fields and check for improvement in performance.

Starting Motor Automatic Drive Unit

"Hornet" 6, "Wasp," and "Rambler" Series

The Bendix Folo-Thru type drive is designed to overcome premature demeshing of the drive pinion from the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined engine speed is reached. Automatic meshing of the drive pinion with the flywheel ring gear is accomplished in the usual manner by closing the starter switch, and the drive then cranks the engine. In the meantime, a spring loaded detent pin, located in the control nut, has dropped into engagement with a notch in the screwshaft. If the engine fails to continue running due to weak or irregular firing, movement of the control nut in the demeshing direction on the screwshaft is temporarily checked because of the pin engagement in the screwshaft notch. Due to the design, it is recommended that only a complete drive be used for service replacement.

NOTE: Do not disassemble the drive under

any circumstance. There are two spring loaded pins in the control nut. These springs have different tensions and must be assembled in their respective locations. Otherwise, the drive cannot operate properly. If the pinion and barrel assembly is accidentally rotated manually to the fully extended position on the screwshaft, do not attempt to force it in the reverse direction. Proceed to install the drive even though it is fully extended. When the engine starts, the detent pin in the control nut is released by centrifugal force. The drive pinion is then automatically de- meshed from the flywheel ring gear in the usual manner, and the pinion and barrel assembly returns to the full demeshed position on the screwshaft.

1. Pinion and Barrel Assembly 7. Drive Spring

2. Stop Collar 8. Drive Head

3. Control Nut 9. Spring Washer

4. Detent Spring 10. Anti-Drift Pin

5. Detent Pin 11. Drift Pin Spring

6. Screw Shaft 12. Dentil

FIGURE 25—Bendix Folo-Thru Drive

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

The screwshaft on the FOLO-THRU Drive is divided into two sections with a dentil connection between them. Therefore, when the engine is driving the pinion at a greater speed than the driving effort of the starting motor, the pinion and barrel assembly, control nut, and screwshaft over-run the starting motor armature shaft. This over-running serves as a safety factor preventing damage to the starting motor. When the engine does not continue to run and slows down, the speed of the pinion and barrel assembly, control nut, and screwshaft also decreases. Cranking is automatically resumed immediately after the speed of the over-running parts reaches that of the starting motor armature shaft provided the starter switch has been kept closed. Intermittent action between over-running and cranking occurs until the engine is firing so that its speed reaches the predetermined rate at which the detent pin is centrifugally forced against the detent spring, thereby compressing it. The detent pin thus becomes disengaged from the screwshaft notch which permits the drive pinion to automatically demesh from the flywheel ring gear. Drifting of the pinion and barrel assembly towards the flywheel ring gear while the engine is running is prevented by a spring loaded anti-drift pin which engages a slope on the screwshaft. This anti-drift pin, also assembled in the control nut, is identical in design to the detent pin. However, due to the difference in function, the spring tension is not the same. In general, the anti-drift spring is stronger than the detent spring. The Bendix Folo-Thru Drive should be cleaned and oiled with a penetrating oil, as any accumulation of dirt on the drive might restrict the free movement of the pinion.

IGNITION SYSTEMS

The ignition system consists of the ignition coil, condenser, distributor, high tension wiring, spark plugs, ignition switch, and a source of electrical energy — the battery or generator. There are two circuits in the ignition system. The primary circuit includes the source of electrical energy, the distributor contact points, the condenser, and the primary winding of the ignition coil. The secondary circuit includes the secondary winding of the ignition coil, the rotor, distributor cap, the high tension wiring, and spark plugs. The primary circuit is completed and broken by the circuit breaker mechanism of the distributor, causing a build-up and collapse of a magnetic field in the ignition coil. The condenser is connected across the distributor contact points. When the points open, the current tries to continue flowing. Without the condenser, the current would form an arc across the separating points. The condenser prevents this because it has the ability or capacity to store up electrical energy. The current instead of forming an arc,

flows into the condenser. Therefore, the condenser brings the current flow to a quick stop. This causes the magnetic field in the coil, sustained by the current flow, to collapse quickly. It is this quick collapse of the magnetic field which induces the high voltage in the secondary coil windings. The high voltage is distributed to the correct cylinder spark plug wire by means of the rotor and distributor cap.

DISTRIBUTORS (AUTO-LITE)

"Hornet" V-8 Series

A dual contact distributor is used on the V-8 series engine for required increased secondary ignition efficiency. The increased efficiency is a result of better magnetic induction on the secondary coil, through longer operation of the primary coil. This is accomplished by increasing the duration of current flow through the primary coil, between the firing points of the distributor, with dual contacts connected in parallel and staggered around the eight lobe cam. Connected in parallel and staggered around the cam, one set of contacts is actuated later than the other, so the two contact points are in a state of closing and opening. The circuit closing contact is moving toward its closed position, while the circuit opening contact is moving toward its open position. For a brief period, both contacts are then open, opening the primary circuit and causing a spark plug to fire. With this arrangement, the dwell angle is increased considerably, permitting the available voltage from the secondary circuit to be more fully utilized. The dwell angle is the angle of cam rotation through which the primary circuit remains closed. The coil primary offers inductive reactance to a current flow, so some time is required to build the current flow up to its full value in the primary. The dual contacts more adequately provide for this required time. The distributor is fully automatic with both governor and vacuum control of the timing. The diaphragm is linked to a pin on the upper plate which carries the contacts. This plate is pivoted at one side and rides on flat, absorbent bronze bearings. The timing is changed by the plate movement. The maximum vacuum advance is limited by a stop which is a part of the vacuum chamber linkage.

"Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

The "Hornet" 6 (Model IAT-4203-A) and "Wasp" Series (Model IAT-4202) Auto-Lite Distributors are fully automatic with both governor and vacuum control of the timing. The diaphragm is linked to a pin on the upper plate which carries the contacts. This plate is pivoted at one side and rides on flat absorbent bronze bearings. The timing is changed by the plate movement. The maximum vacuum advance is limited by a stop which is a part of the vacuum chamber linkage.

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FIGURE 26— V-8 Distributor Assembly Side

Sectional View

Distributor Specifications (Auto-Lite)

Make Model Rotation Contact Gap Condenser Capacity Side Play End Play

FIGURE 27— Top View, V-8 Distributor

Dual Contact Mounting

Tune-Up Procedure

Both the primary and secondary circuits of the ignition circuit should be checked individually. Each circuit should be carefully checked for loose connections, damaged insulation or corroded terminals. As it is not practical to check distributors, replace contacts or make any other adjustments while the unit is installed, it should be removed from the engine and checked on the bench. It is recommended that the unit be periodically removed from the engine and the following points checked.

"Hornet" V-8 Series

Auto-Lite

BK-4001 (Prior to P-6001) —IBK-4001-B (At P-6001)

Left Hand (Viewed from top)

.017" ± .002". Keep Contacts aligned

.25 to .28 Microfarads

Shaft Side Play not to exceed .005"

.00 3" to .010". Measure after the Shaft Collar is Assembled

Breaker Arm Spring Tension.17 to 20 ounces. Measure with Scale Hooked on the Breaker Arm at the Contact and

Pull on a Line Perpendicular to the Contact Face. Take Reading as Contacts Separate.

Automatic Advance (Engine Degrees and R.P.M.) Start Intermediate

Model IBK-4001 0° at 600 R.P.M. 2° at 650 R.P.M.

Model IBK-4001-B 0° at 600 R.P.M. 2° at 750 R.P.M.

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Auto-Lite

IAT-4203-A ("Hornet" 6)—IAT-4202 ("Wasp")

Right Hand (Viewed from Top)

.020" ± .002". Keep Contacts Aligned

.21 to .25 Microfarads

Shaft Side Play not to Exceed .005"

.003" to .010". Measure after the shaft Collar is Assembled

17 to 20 Ounces. Measure with Scale Hooked on the Breaker Arm at the Contact and

Pull on a Line Perpendicular to the Contact Face. Take Reading as Contacts Separate.

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

Intermediate Intermediate Full Advance

Vacuum Advance (Engine Degrees and Inches Mercury) Start

Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate Full Advance

22° at 1200 R.P.M. 38° at 2270 R.P.M. 40° at 2400 R.P.M.

Model IBK-4001 0° at 6" 2° at 63/4" 6° at 87/8" 8° at 91/4" 11° at 10"

Distributor Specifications (Auto-Lite)

"Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

Make Model Rotation Contact Gap Condenser Capacity Side Play End Play Breaker Arm Spring Tension

16° at 1700 R.P.M. 30° at 3300 R.P.M. 32° at 3500 R.P.M.

Model IBK-4001-B 0° at 61/4" 2° at 65/8" 12° at 9" 22° at 121/g" 24° at 13"

Automatic Advance

(Engine Degrees and R.P.M ) Start Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate Full Advance

Vacuum Advance

(Engine Degrees and Inches of Mercury)

Start Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate

Full Advance

The distributor cap should be thoroughly cleaned and a visual inspection made for cracks, carbon runners or corroded high tension terminals. If any of these conditions are found, the cap should be replaced. After a distributor cap has had normal use, the vertical face of the insert will become slightly burned and can be cleaned with refined carbon tetrachloride. DO NOT FILE. If the burning is excessive, the cap should be replaced. Also note if the insert shows signs of burning on its horizontal face. If burning is noticeable at this point, it indicates that the rotor is too short and should be replaced. The rotor should be visually inspected for cracks, (replace if cracked) and evidence of burning on the top of the metal strip. After

Model IAT-4203-A

0° at 600 R.P.M. 2° at 700 R.P.M. 9° at 1000 R.P.M. 24° at 2650 R.P.M. 27° at 3000 R.P.M.

Model IAT-4203-A

0° at 5-1/4" 2° at 5-3/4" 8° at 7-1/2" 12° at 8-3/4" 15° at 9-1/2"

Model IAT-4202

0° at 1000 R.P.M. 2° at 1340 R.P.M. 8° at 2300 R.P.M. 16° at 3650 R.P.M. 18° at 4000 R.P.M.

Model IAT-4202

0° at 9-1/2" 2° at 10" 4° at 10-3/8" 6° at 10-7/8"

7.5° at 11-1/4"

normal use the end of the metal strip will become slightly burned and can be cleaned with refined carbon tetrachloride. If evidence of burning is found on top of the metal strip, it indicates that the strip is too short and the rotor should be replaced.

Use of Distributor Test Fixture

The distributor test fixture accurately checks cam angle, spark advance and synchronization on distributors removed from the car. It will also show excessive distributor shaft eccentricity as indicated by variation in synchronization. After a distributor has been repaired, the calibration of the centrifugal automatic mechanism should be checked. Proper engine performance

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ELECTRICAL

FIGURE 28—"Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

Auto-Lite Distributor Assembly Side

Sectional View

FIGURE 29—"Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series

Auto-Lite Distributor Top View

checked. Proper engine performance cannot be obtained unless the centrifugal curve is within the limits specified for the particular engine.

The Condenser

The function of a condenser is to prevent excessive arcing at the contacts. Correct condenser capacity is necessary to insure good performance and to protect the life

of the breaker contacts. When checking the distributor, the condenser should always be checked for both leakage and capacity with an approved condenser tester. Four factors affect condenser performance and each factor must be considered in making any condenser tests. BREAKDOWN is a failure of the insulating material, a direct short between the metallic elements of the condenser. This prevents any condenser action. LOW INSULATION RESISTANCE or leakage prevents the condenser from holding a charge. A condenser with low insulation resistance is said to be "weak." All condensers are subject to leakage which, up to a certain limit, is not objectionable. When it is considered that the ignition condenser performs its function in approximately 1/12,000 of a second, it can be seen that leakage can be large without detrimental effects. It must be considered, however, in any condenser test. HIGH SERIES resistance is excessive resistance in the condenser circuit due to broken strands in the condenser lead or to defective connections. This will cause burned points and ignition failure upon initial start and at high speeds. CAPACITY is built into the condenser and is determined by the area of the metallic elements and the insulating and impregnating materials. For a complete check of the condenser, it is desirable to use a tester which will check for the above four conditions.

Breaker Contacts

Contacts that show a grayish color, are only slightly pitted and are within .002" of the correct maximum gap, need not to be replaced or adjusted. A dial indicator is recommended to check the point opening of used points. When necessary to check and adjust point opening with a feeler gauge, use a wire feeler gauge. After adjusting the gap, tighten the lock screw and recheck the gap. It is desirable that the contacts be replaced if they are pitted as refaced contacts do not have the shape and finish for satisfactory performance. When replacing contacts, be sure they are aligned and that they make contact near the center. Bend the stationary contact bracket to secure proper alignment. DO NOT BEND THE BREAKER ARM. Breaker arm spring tension should be checked when the contacts are inspected. Use a spring scale hooked on the arm at the contact and held at right angles to the contact surfaces. Take a reading as the contacts separate. This spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces. Adjust by loosening the screw holding the end of the contact spring and install spacing washers or slide the end of the spring in or out as necessary. Retighten the screw and recheck the pressure. If the tension is too weak, the contacts will chatter at high speed giving poor

performance while, if the

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

performance while, if the tension is too strong, excessive wear of the cam and breaker arm rubbing block will result.

Governor Adjustment

Mount the distributor on a test fixture that will show the distributor R.P.M. and degrees of advance. Operate the distributor in the correct rotation and increase the speed until the spark begins to advance. Reduce the speed slightly and set the indicator to zero. Increase the speed to the value specified to give 1° advance. If the advance is not 1°, stop the distributor and bend the outer spring lug on the weak weight spring to change its tension. Check this point again; then operate the distributor at the specified speed to give an advance 1° below the maximum. If this advance is not as specified, stop the distributor and bend the outer spring lug on which the heavy spring is mounted. Recheck the zero point and the above two points and make whatever readjustments are necessary; then check the advance at all of the points specified. When making this check, operate the distributor both up and down the speed range. If there is a variation between the readings for increasing and decreasing speeds, it indicates that the governor action is sluggish and requires overhaul.

Vacuum Advance Adjustment

Vacuum advance should be checked on a distributor test fixture that has a controlled source of vacuum and a vacuum gauge. Mount the distributor on the fixture and connect the vacuum line. Tighten the vacuum connections thoroughly, being careful not to apply a torque to the vacuum housing as this could cause leakage where diaphragm is clamped in the housing. Turn on the vacuum pump to give a reading of 10" to 20" vacuum; then shut off the pump. If the gauge reading falls, it indicates leakage in the vacuum chamber, pump, gauge, or connections which should be located and corrected before tests and adjustments are made. Remove all vacuum from the distributor and operate it at a speed above the maximum governor advance speed to eliminate all spark variations due to the governor. Set the indicator to zero and apply vacuum to give one of the advance figures specified. If the advance is incorrect, change the spacing washers between the vacuum chamber spring and nut. Be sure to tighten the nut thoroughly and have gasket in place. When one point of the curve is adjusted, the others should be checked. If they are not within limits, it indicates either incorrect spring characteristics or leakage in the vacuum chamber and lines. The maximum advance is controlled by a stop on the vacuum chamber arm. If the maximum advance is not correct, make sure the parts are correctly assembled and have not had an incorrect part installed.

Distributor Assembly

NOTE: After the distributor has been reassembled, all of the points mentioned in the following lubrication

section should be checked. BE SURE THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR CONTACTS ARE CLEAN AND DRY. If any grease or oil is on the contacts, they should be cleaned with refined carbon tetrachloride. Remove any residue by pulling a piece of clean dry tape between the contacts. The breaker contacts should be adjusted to the correct gap.

Lubrication

Distributor should be lubricated periodically at the following points: Apply 3 to 5 drops of medium engine oil to the oiler on the side of the distributor base at regular chassis lubrication periods. After the first 2500 miles, remove the cap and rotor and apply 5 drops of medium engine oil to the felt in the top of the cam. Repeat this lubrication at 5000 miles and every 10,000 miles thereafter. At 10,000 mile intervals, apply one drop of light oil to the breaker arm pivot pin. Operate arm once or twice; then remove the excess oil. Apply a light film of grease to the breaker cam. At overhaul, soak drive shaft bearings in medium engine oil and drain before reassembling the distributor. Wipe all oil from upper part of base. At assembly apply a film of grease to the upper drive shaft washer and put a small amount of grease in the bearing bore just above the bearing. Lubricate the governor mechanism sparingly with medium engine oil. Place one drop of light oil on each of the breaker plate support hearings and on the pivot bearing. On Models IAT-4203-A and IAT-4202, press on pivot retainer spring to expose a slight gap between the spring and the washer. Apply one drop of light oil under the washer.

DISTRIBUTOR (DELCO-REMY)

"Rambler" Series

The "Rambler" Series distributor, Delco-Remy Model 1112382, is a six volt, six cylinder, full automatic unit with centrifugal advance of 24 engine degrees. The shaft revolves in a special porous bushing which spans an oil reservoir in the distributor housing (Fig.

30).

Spark Control

Advancing and retarding of the spark for varying conditions of speed and load is accomplished by a centrifugal advance mechanism (governor weights) on the distributor shaft which advances the contact breaker cam and a vacuum control mechanism which, actuated by the manifold vacuum, rotates the distributor in its mounting.

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ELECTRICAL

Make Model Rotation Cam Angle Contact Point Pressure Contact Point Opening Condenser Capacity Automatic Advance

Vacuum Advance Make Model Advance

FIGURE 30 - “Rambler” Series Distributor

Distributor Specifications (Delco-Remy)

“Rambler” Series

Delco-Remy

1112382

Clockwise at Drive End

31 to 37 Degrees

17 to 21 Ounces

.022"

.18 to .23 Mfd.

Start at 2.0 Engine Degrees at 600 Engine R.P.M.

Intermediate-11 Engine Degrees at 800 Engine R.P.M.

Maximum 24.0 Engine Degrees at 2800 Engine R.P.M.

NOTE: Low Limit---4 Degrees Less

Delco-Remy

1116045

3 to 5 Inches Vacuum to Start Travel

13 to 17 Inches Vacuum. for 17 Degrees Engine Advance (23/64" Travel)

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

Centrifugal Control

With speed variations, it is desirable to advance the spark in direct relation to the engine speed in order to develop maximum power (Fig. 31) . As engine speed increases, the weights gradually throw out and advance the cam assembly to give the desired spark advance for the speed at which the engine is running. The correct centrifugal spark advance is determined by various specified throttle tests until the maximum is obtained. Weight, cam contour, and spring calibration, which permits this advance, may then be corrected by adjustment or replacement.

tween the diaphragm and the distributor stem is drawn into the vacuum units, causing the distributor to rotate in its mounting to secure vacuum advance. The total spark advance for any condition of engine speed is determined by the two advance mechanisms acting together and depending on the throttle opening and load. When the throttle is closed, there is no vacuum advance, all advance being secured by the centrifugal advance mechanism. The total advance is the sum of the centrifugal plus the vacuum advance. With a wide open throttle, the vacuum drops off and all advance is obtained by the centrifugal advance mechanism. The "Rambler" Series is equipped with an external vacuum spark control unit which rotates the entire distributor in its mounting pad to the correct advance for the existing vacuum.

FIGURE 31— Centrifugal Advance Mechanism

Vacuum Control

Under part throttle operation, additional spark advance is desirable for improved performance and fuel economy. The vacuum control (Fig. 32) consists essentially of a diaphragm and linkage acting against a return spring. The linkage is riveted to the diaphragm at one end and clamped about the distributor stem at the other end. The vacuum tube from the vacuum control connects to a passage, in the carburetor, leading to a port just above the throttle valve. As soon as the throttle is opened, the manifold vacuum is admitted to the carburetor and the vacuum control diaphragm is caused to collapse in proportion to the vacuum. The linkage be-

FIGURE 32— Distributor Vacuum Control

"Rambler" Series

Distributor Maintenance (Delco-Remy) Lubrication

The distributors incorporate a built-in oil reservoir from which shaft lubrication is obtained through a porous bushing. This reservoir back of the shaft bushing is filled with light engine oil and sealed before the unit is shipped. The supply of oil is sufficient to last for 10,000 miles of operation (approximately 200 hours) under normal operating conditions. The oil reservoir should be refilled every 10,000 miles of operation or more frequently when unusual heat or other operating conditions are experienced

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ELECTRICAL

To refill the reservoir, remove the oil plug and add Grade 20W oil. When replacing plug, seal with a compound that will hold against oil. In addition, a trace of high melting point ball bearing grease should be placed on the breaker cam every 5,000 miles. Also at 5,000 miles, place one drop of light engine oil on the breaker lever pivot and a few drops on the felt wick under the rotor.

Inspection

The cap should be removed at regular intervals and the contact points, rotor and cap examined. Check the high tension wiring for frayed or damaged insulation and poor connections at the cap or plugs. Replace if necessary. Replace the cap or rotor if they are cracked or show carbonized paths indicating the secondary current is leaking to ground over the surface of the material.

Contact Points

Contact points that are burned or pitted should be replaced or dressed with a clean, fine-cut contact file. The file should not be used on other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. NEVER USE EMERY CLOTH TO CLEAN CONTACT POINTS. Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication that they are not functioning satisfactorily.

Oxidized Contact Points

Oxidized contact points may be caused by high resistance or loose connections in the condenser circuit, oil or foreign materials on the contact. surfaces, or most commonly, high breaking current. Check for these conditions where burned contacts are experienced.

The Contact Point Opening

Contact point opening must be set to specification. Points set too closely may tend to burn and pit rapidly. Points with excessive separation tend to cause a weak spark at high speed. The point opening of new points may be checked with a feeler gauge. Use of a flat feeler gauge on used points is not recommended, since the roughness of used points make it impossible to set the point opening accurately by this method. A dial indicator is recommended to check the point opening of used points. When necessary to check and adjust point opening with a feeler gauge, proceed as follows: Rotate breaker cam until breaker lever rubbing block is on the high point of the cam lobe, thus giving the maximum point opening. Loosen the clamp screw holding the contact support and adjust point opening by turning the eccentric screw in the contact support. Tighten clamp screw; check with gauge again after tightening clamp screw. THE CONTACT POINTS SHOULD BE CLEANED BEFORE ADJUSTING IF THEY HAVE BEEN IN SERVICE. The cam or contact

angle is the angle in degrees of cam rotation through which the points remain closed.

Contact Point Pressure

Contact point pressure must fall within the limits given. Weak tension will cause point chatter and ignition miss at high speed, while excessive tension will cause undue wear of the contact points, cam and rubbing block.

The Condenser

Four factors affect condenser performance and each factor must be considered in making any condenser tests. BREAKDOWN is a failure of the insulating material, a direct short between the metallic elements of the condenser. This prevents any condenser action. LOW INSULATION RESISTANCE or leakage prevents the condenser from holding a charge. A condenser with low insulation resistance is said to be "weak." All condensers are subject to leakage, which up to a certain limit, is not objectionable. When it is considered that the ignition condenser performs its function in approximately 1/12,000 of a second, it can be seen that leakage can be large without detrimental effects. It must be considered, however, in any condenser test. HIGH SERIES resistance is excessive resistance in the condenser circuit due to broken strands in the condenser lead or to defective connections. This will cause burned points and ignition failure upon initial start and at high speeds. CAPACITY is built into the condenser and is determined by the area of the metallic elements and the insulating and impregnating materials. For a complete check of the condenser, it is desirable to use a tester which will check for the above four conditions.

IGNITION TIMING

Timing of the distributor to the engine should be made after the distributor has been calibrated in accordance with specifications. (See Distributor Specifications.)

"Hornet" V-8 Series

The ignition timing is controlled by the distributor location in its mounting. The breaker contact set that controls the interruption of the primary circuit (circuit opening contact) must just open when the 5° B.T.D.C. No. 1 cylinder position of the crankshaft is obtained (Fig. 33) . Timing marks are located on vibration damper pulley and timing chain cover. A basic timing location position for the distributor is given to prevent undue bending of the vacuum tube and rewiring of the distributor cap for timing and firing order. This timing should be done whenever the distributor is removed and the engine inadvertently cranked. Locate No. 1 cylinder in firing position. Install distributor with the

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

"Hornet" 6, "Wasp", and "Rambler" Series

All distributors on these models have off-set drives so they can only be installed in one position, provided the oil pumps have not been removed and replaced. Proper location of the oil pump is necessary to obtain basic distributor timing location. (Refer Oil Pump Removal and Replacement, Engine Section.) Position engine in No. 1 firing position and install distributor. Rotate distributor until points just begin to separate. Tighten clamp screw to prevent distributor from turning. Check firing order arrangement in distributor cap. Start engine and retime accurately with timing light at T.D.C. for the "Hornet" 6 and "Wasp" Series, and 4° A.T.D.C. for the "Rambler" Series. Timing marks are located on the flywheel on the "Hornet" 6 Series. Correct timing is obtained by firing No. 1 cylinder as the U.D.C. No. 1 mark aligns with the lower edge of opening in the rear engine end plate near the starting motor. The four lines are 3° apart. The "Wasp" Series has four marks plus the No. 1 U.D.C. timing mark located on the vibration damper. The marks are 3° apart. The "Rambler" Series has two marks on the vibration damper pulley, one for U.D.C. and one for ignition timing 4° after top center.

FIGURE 33— Ignition Timing Position

V-8 Series

vacuum advance connection in approximately 2:00 o'clock position as viewed from the front of engine and the rotor pointing to the cap terminal, No. 1 cylinder position, just to the left of the rear distributor cap clip. Position the distributor so the circuit opening contacts are just ready to open. Tighten the distributor retaining clamp screw enough to hold distributor and start engine. With a timing light, accurately time distributor to engine. The distributor is driven at Y2 crankshaft speed from a gear cast and cut on the rear of the camshaft. An extension on the distributor (Fig. 26) drives the oil pump. This makes it possible to engage the oil pump shaft in advance of engagement with the cam shaft drive gear. Because of this drive arrangement, the oil pump can be removed at any time with no effect on distributor timing location. While installing the distributor, the extension also permits engagement with the oil pump drive shaft in one of two locations 180° apart merely by turning the rotor. Further downward movement of the distributor assembly will engage the distributor drive gear with the camshaft drive gear

IGNITION COILS

Ignition coils do not require special service other than the keeping of terminals and connections clean and tight. It is necessary to replace the complete coil in case of failure in the windings.

TYPE

Champion H-10 (Prior to P-6001) “Hornet” V-8 *Auto-Lite AL-7 Auto-Lite AG-5 (At P-6001) “Hornet” V-8 *Champion N-8 Champion H-10 “Wasp”

(C.I. Heads)

(Aluminum Heads) *Auto-Lite AL-7 Champion H-11 “Hornet” 6 *Auto-Lite AL-9 Auto-Lite A-7 “Rambler” *AC-44 *Champion J-7

TORQUE

30 Ft. Lbs.

30 Ft. Lbs. 25 Ft. Lbs.

25 Ft. Lbs.

30 Ft. Lbs.

GAP

.035”

.032” .032”

.030”

*Optional

Inspection

The spark plugs should be removed periodically from the engine and examined for burned electrodes and dirty, fouled, cracked, or broken porcelains (Fig. 34).

THREAD

REACH

7/16”

3/4”

7/16” 7/16”

7/16”

3/8”

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ELECTRICAL

FIGURE 34—Spark Plugs Often Indicate Other

Sources of Trouble

The gaps should be checked, set, and rechecked with an adjusting tool and gauge (Fig. 35). CAUTION: When installing plugs, always

use new gaskets. They aid in dissipating heat and also insure compression and power expansion pressure seal.

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The instrument cluster housing is mounted in the left side of the dash panel. In addition to the speedometer, it contains the panel lights, high beam indicator light, no-charge indicator light, low oil pressure light, electric gauge receiver units for water temperature and fuel level, clock, and directional signal pilot lights.

1. No-Charge Indicator

2. Low Oil Pressure Warning Light

3. Left Turn Indicator Pilot Light

4. Hi-Beam Indicator Light

5. Right Turn Indicator Pilot Light

FIGURE 36—Instrument Cluster Assembly

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

FIGURE 35— Set Gap with Gauge

Always use a torque wrench when installing spark plugs. Distortion from over-tightening will change the gap clearance of the plug. Torque to 30 Foot Pounds in cast iron cylinder heads, 25 Foot Pounds in aluminum heads.

1. Clock

2. Speedometer

3. Instrument Voltage Regulator

FIGURE 37—Instrument Cluster Assembly

Rear View "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

"Rambler" Series

The instrument cluster assembly contains the speedometer, low oil pressure light, high beam indicator light, no-charge indicator light, electric gauge receivers for water temperature, and fuel level indicators.

INSTRUMENT LIGHTS

The instrument lights illuminate the faces of the instrument cluster gauges for night driving. The main light switch must be in "Park" or "Drive" position before the instrument lights will operate. They are controlled by an independent rheostat switch on the left and lower edge of the dash panel on the “Hornet”

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1. Windshield Wiper Control 4. Light Switch

2. Instrument Cluster 5. Weather Eye Control Valve

3. Ignition Switch 6. Cigar Lighter

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 38—Instrument Cluster Assembly and Dash Panel "Rambler" Series

and "Wasp" Series, and by a toggle switch in dash panel edge on left side of steering column on the "Rambler" Series.

HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LIGHT

This light is connected to the high beam circuit in the headlight foot or dimmer switch. When the high beam is Operating in the head lamps, a red light dot is seen below the center of the speedometer scale on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series, and in the lower radius of the instrument cluster on the "Rambler" Series.

NO CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT

A light is used to indicate general generator operation. When the output of the generator is below battery potential, a red light dot is seen on the left hand side of the instrument cluster above temperature gauge. When the generator output is above battery potential, other factors (wiring, voltage regulator, etc.) being normal, the light is out. On the "Rambler" Series, the no charge light is in the left side of the instrument cluster. The charge indicator bulb is in an insulated socket and is connected to the charging circuit obtaining its ground through the voltage regulator. When the generator output rises above battery potential, the current flow from the generator reverses the direction of flow in the charging circuit and the light goes out. At this time, the charge indicator light no longer obtains a ground through the voltage regulator.

LOW OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT

The low pressure warning light is wired in series with the oil pressure sending unit on the engine block. This sending unit contains a diaphragm, spring, linkage, and electrical contacts. When the ignition switch is in the "on" position, the warning light circuit is energized and the circuit is completed through the closed contacts in the sending unit. Upon start of the engine, build up of oil pressure will compress the diaphragm opening the contact points, thereby breaking the circuit.

Oil Pressure Unit Test Procedure

Connect indicator light bulb in series with sending unit. Apply air or oil pressure to sending unit controlling pressure with a control valve and positive indicating gauge (Fig. 39). With less than 13 P.S.I. ± 2 on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series and 61/2 P.S.I. 11/2 "Rambler" Series, the light will be on. Over this pressure, the light will be off.

ELECTRIC GAUGES

The fuel level and temperature gauges (indicators) are of the bi-metal type King Seeley Models.

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Variable resistor type sending units are used for fuel and temperature gauges. Because of this, a voltage regulator is required. The function of the instrument voltage regulator is to recieve the variable voltage supply from

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ELECTRICAL

does not produce a steady D.C. voltage output, but rather a pulsating voltage at an effective constant average value of 5.0 volts. The input voltage source can, therefore, be D.C. intermittent or interrupted D.C. or A.C. just as long as the average input voltage does not drop below 5.0 volts. Input voltage lower than 5.0 volts will result in proportionately low gauge indication. With the constant voltage regulator operating properly (with input voltage normally varying from 5.6 to 8.0 volts) input voltages in excess of 8.0 volts will not affect gauge indication accuracy but will overload the regulator contacts and may result in premature wear.

Fuel Level Gauge Operation

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

With the tank empty, the float holds the slide rheostat (variable resistance) at maximum resistance causing the gauge to read "empty" (Fig. 41).

FIGURE 39—Oil Pressure Warning Light

Test Procedure

the storage battery or charging circuit and regulate it to a constant value for the single wire gauge circuit shown schematically in Figure 40.

FIGURE 40—Fuel and Temperature Gauge

Circuit "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

To produce the constant voltage 5.0 volts output, the regulator is constructed simply as a heater bi-metal in conjunction with a pair of contacts. It is temperature compensated to produce correct constant voltage for the gauge systems at all expected temperatures. It is mounted near the dash panel indicators at approximately their same temperatures. The voltage regulator

FIGURE 41—Tank "Empty" Position

With the tank full, the slide rheostat is moved to the minimum resistance point causing the gauge to read "full" with the ignition switch on (Fig. 42).

Temperature Gauge Operation

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The temperature gauge sending unit is a thermistor which varies in electrical conductivity with change in temperature, being very high in resistance when cold and low in resistance when hot. The schematic drawings (Figs. 43 and 44) show the operation of the temperature gauge system.

Testing the Gauge Units "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

If both gauges read excessively high such as fuel gauge reading high level when actually low level exists or temperature gauge reading

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 42— Tank "Full" Position

If both gauges read too low, either the input voltage to the voltage regulator is too low (below 5.0) or the voltage regulator is not functioning properly and should be replaced

To check instrument cluster complete: Connect accurate resistor of 73 ohms between temperature indicator terminal and case. Connect accurate resistor of 59 ohms between fuel indicator terminal and case. Apply 6-8 volts between "IGN" terminal on instrument voltage regulator and case. Indicator pointers should be on "E" and "C" marks. Duplicate same test except use 9 ohm resistor in temperature gauge circuit to ground and 10.9 ohm resistor in fuel gauge circuit to ground. Indicator pointers should be on "F" and "H" marks.

To check temperature indicator gauge in cluster:

With a current flow of .06 amperes plus or minus .007 amperes through temperature gauge, pointer should align with "C" mark. With current of .208 amperes plus or minus .006, pointer should be on "H" mark.

To check fuel indicator gauge in cluster: With a current of .072 amperes plus or minus .009 passed through indicator, pointer should align with "E" mark. With current of .195 amperes plus or minus .006, pointer should align with "F" mark.

FIGURE 43— Cold Coolant Conditions of

Temperature Indicator

Electric Gauges

"Rambler" Series

The "Rambler" Series indicator units in the instrument cluster are very much like those of the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series. However, bi-metal type sending units are used. Figures 45, 46, 47, and 48 illustrate the schematic circuit conditions in the bi-metal type circuit.

FIGURE 45—Fuel Tank "Empty" Condition

"Rambler" Series

FIGURE 44—Hot Coolant Conditions of

Temperature Indicator

higher temperatures with a cold engine, the constant voltage regulator is at fault and should be replaced.

All Series

Gauge units may be tested but cannot be repaired in the field. When one fails to function properly, it is necessary to replace it. Gauges can be removed from the rear of the cluster. They are held in the cluster plate by mounting screws.

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FIGURE 46— Fuel Tank "Full" Condition

"Rambler" Series

ELECTRICAL

Obtain a known-to-be-good tank unit from parts stock. The "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series requires a King-Seeley variable resistor type. The "Rambler" Series requires a King-Seeley bi-metal type. Do not attempt checking one system with the tank unit from the other. To determine that the test unit is satisfactory, connect it in series with a known-to-begood receiver of the same type as the sending unit and a six volt source of current (and voltage regulator "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series). Operate the tank unit by hand. The receiver must read "empty" with tank unit float in bottom position and "full" with tank float in top position. Two ten foot lengths of insulated wire equipped with clip terminals at each end will facilitate checking procedure. Disconnect the sending unit being checked and connect a tank test unit. Turn on ignition switch and operate tank unit by hand.

FIGURE 47—Cold Coolant Condition of

Temperature Indicator

FIGURE 48— Hot Coolant Condition of

Temperature Indicator

CAUTION: Whenever any work is to be performed on the instrument cluster, speedometer, ignition switch or horn blower, disconnect one battery lead at the battery terminal.

When removing more than one wire in the gauge cluster, label each wire as it is removed. This will insure proper relocation.

Testing Fuel Level and Temperature Indicators (General)

No unit should be removed from the car until a check has been completed which shows that such units are damaged or defective.

FIGURE 49— Test Circuit (All Series). Be

Sure Correct Type Tank Unit is Used

Fuel Level Indicator

With float of tank unit at bottom position, receiver being checked should register at bottom mark on dial. Move float up to top position; receiver being checked should move to top mark on dial. Allow one minute for receiver pointer to come to rest.

Water Temperature Indicator "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Refer to Gauge Testing "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series.

"Rambler" Series

With float of tank unit at bottom position, receiver being checked should register at HOT end of scale. Move float up to top position; receiver being checked should move to COLD end of scale. Allow one minute for receiver pointer to come to rest.

All Series (Testing Continued)

If the dash unit needle reads high scale at all times, check for grounded wiring to the sending unit. shorted or burned out sending

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

unit, or reversed wiring on the dash unit. If the dash unit needle reads low scale at all times, check for open circuit to the sending unit, open circuit in the sending unit, or failure of the ignition switch circuit to energize the gauge units. If receiver operates correctly, check sender on car to see if it is properly grounded. If car is radio equipped, check condenser on sender. If condenser is shorted, it will cause receiver to over-indicate. When replacing condenser, it is preferable to use one of .10 microfarad capacity, but up to .50 can be used if necessary to cut out radio interference. If ground and condenser are all right, replace sender and check to see if this has corrected the difficulty. If receiver does not operate or fails to operate correctly, check wire lead to receiver and replace wire if faulty. If wiring is good, then replace receiver and check with sender on car. If receiver fails to operate, then replace sender.

NOTE: If necessary to replace the receiver

because it has been burned out, check wiring, sender, and radio condenser (if any) for a "short" and correct this condition. Otherwise, new receiver will also burn out. A short in the gauge circuit is easily recognizable because it will cause receiver to over-indicate in most cases beyond full scale. WARNING: Do not apply six volts direct to receiver (dash unit) as this will burn it out.

IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER REMOVAL

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Remove the left ash tray assembly. Then remove the large switch retaining nut and "map" reading light assembly. Enough slack exists in the wiring to the ignition switch to permit lowering the switch assembly so that the ignition lock cylinder can he removed. The cylinder is held in the housing by a spring loaded horseshoe lock which snaps into a groove cut in the switch housing to retain the cylinder. Insert a stiff piece of wire, or paper clip, into the small hole as illustrated in Figure 50. Turn the key to the right (ignition "on" position). With the wire, depress the horseshoe lock in the lock cylinder and pull lock cylinder from the housing.

Briggs and Stratton type lock cylinders are used on the "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series.

"Rambler" Series

Disconnect the ignition switch wires and remove the switch retainer nut located behind the instrument panel. The switch assembly may then be withdrawn from the panel. Insert a stiff wire, or paper clip, through the small hole in the switch housing to depress the small horseshoe lock retaining the lock cylinder (Fig. 51).

1. Use Stiff Wire to Depress Horseshoe Lock FIGURE 51—Ignition Switch Assembly

"Rambler" Series

Briggs and Stratton lock cylinders are used on all "Rambler" Series.

IGNITION SWITCH REMOVAL

Follow the procedure outlined under "Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal."

CAUTION: Before any work is performed under the dash, the battery should be disconnected from the electrical system.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Circuit breakers are provided to protect the main electrical wiring from overload. These consist of 20 ampere circuit breaker (ignition switch, heater motors, and stop light) and one 30 ampere circuit breaker (main lighting circuit). The 20 ampere circuit breaker is located behind the dash panel on the left side of the ceiling of the cowl. The 30 ampere circuit breaker is attached to the headlight switch.

ELECTRICAL FUSE "Rambler" Series

A 30 ampere fuse is provided in the light switch assembly to protect the main lighting circuit from overload. The stop light and directional signal lights are protected by a 30 ampere fuse located on the left front wheelhouse panel.

FIGURE 50—Ignition Switch Assembly

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

HEAD LAMPS

The head lamps are of the familiar sealed beam type. Adjustment of beam direction may be made to agree with existing state regulations by the method outlined

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ELECTRICAL

below. For access to the adjustment screws

on each sealed beam, it is only necessary to remove the head lamp door.

To obtain maximum results in road illumi-

nation and the safety that has been built into the headlighting equipment, the headlamp beams must be properly aimed.

Locate the car on a level floor (with no

passengers in the car). Place a light colored vertical screen 25 feet ahead. (A vertical wall may be used.) Draw a horizontal line on the wall two inches (three inches if required by local State law) below the headlamp center level, and draw a vertical line directly ahead of each lamp. The vertical line, midway between the headlamps, may be located by sighting through the center of the rear window and over the center of the hood.

Cover one lamp and adjust the other lamp

by centering the high intensity beam (Fig.

52).

Repeat the operation for the second lamp.

No further adjustment is needed for the lower beam.

CAUTION: If your state requires a

loading allowance, draw the horizontal line below the level line by the amount required in your particular state.

LIGHT SWITCH "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The main lighting switch is located at the

left side of the dash panel between the radio speaker grille and windshield wiper control.

To remove the light switch assembly, remove

the Knob with an Allen wrench. Then remove the retaining (French) nut. The light switch assembly can now be removed

from the dash panel and lowered to provide

access to the wiring (Fig. 54).

"Rambler" Series

Disconnect the instrument switch panel from

the dash panel. Place the switch in the full

"on" position and insert a stiff wire, or

paper clip, in the hole provided to release

the switch shaft and knob assembly (Fig. 55).

Then remove retaining (French) nut.

HEADLAMP DIMMER SWITCH

The "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series dimmer switch

is located below the left front fender on the

toe board. It is protected with a shield

which must be removed from below the car

before the switch can be removed (Fig. 56).

1. Vertical Adjustment

2. Horizontal Adjustment

FIGURE 52—Head Lamp Adjustment

PARKING, TAIL, STOP, AND DIRECTIONAL LIGHTING

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

Parking and directional signal lights are

mounted in a single assembly located in the

front fender. Double contact bulbs are used

FIGURE 53—Head Lamp Adjusting Chart

in parking and directional signal light sockets. One element for parking light the

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1. Resistor for Dash Instrument Lighting

2. 30 Ampere Circuit Breaker

TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

FIGURE 54— Light Switch Removed from Dash

the other for directional signal light. Bulb #1154 (Trade Number) Directional Light Element 21 cp 6-8 volts Parking Light Element 3 cp 6-8 volts Tail, stop, and directional signal lights are all contained in the rear fender light assemblies. Double contact bulbs are used in the tail lamp assembly. One element is in the tail light circuit while the other element is alternately in the brake light or directional light circuit depending on how the directional control switch is positioned. The lens are retained with three screws. Bulb Size #1154 (Trade Number) Tail Light Element 3 cp 6-8 volts Stop and Directional Element 21 cp 6-8 volts The right hand light assembly upper compartment houses the fuel tank filler cap. The license lights are located in the rear vertical bars. Bulb Size #63 (Trade Number) 3 Candle Power 6-8 volts

"Rambler" Series

1. Fuse Holder

2. 30 Ampere Fuse

3. Stiff Wire to Release Knob and Shaft

4. French Nut

FIGURE 55— Light Switch Assembly

"Rambler" Series

The "Rambler" Series front parking and directional light assemblies are mounted in the front section of the fender. The parking lamp assembly (less directional signal) contains a single contact bulb for parking light operation. Bulb #63 (Trade Number) 3 cp 6-8 volts Where directional light assemblies are installed, they contain double contact bulbs and two wire leads. One bulb element is then directional signal and the other is parking light. Bulb #1154 (Trade Number) Directional Light Element 21 cp 6-8 volts Parking Light Element 3 cp 6-8 volts To change a parking light bulb, the snap ring holding the lens in place must be removed. Tail, stop, and directional signal lights are housed in rear fender ends. The lamp assembly contains an upper and lower section. The division is part of the lens. To change a tail, stop, or directional light bulb, the lens must be removed. It is held with one center retaining screw. Bulb #1154 (Trade Number) Stop Light Element 21 cp 6-8 volts Tail Light Element 3 cp 6-8 volts

FIGURE 56— Headlight Dimmer Switch

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

License Light Assembly

The license light is mounted in the rear license plate mounting bracket which is mounted with two metal screws from the rear of the license plate cross bar. To change the bulb, the license mounting bracket must be removed from the license plate cross bar and the socket and lens assembly removed from the

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ELECTRICAL

licensemounting bracket. Bulb #T-63 (Trade Number) 3 cp 6-8 volts

HORNS AND RELAYS

The horn circuit includes a matched pair of

horns, the horn relay, the battery, the horn button, and the car frame. With the relay in the circuit, the button is required to carry only the relay control current. Therefore, the spark formed when the button contacts open is much less than it would be if all current flowed through the button.

The "Hornet" and "Wasp" Series horns are

mounted on the right and left wheelhouse panel extensions behind the radiator grille.

The "Rambler" Series straight twin horns

and relay assembly are mounted on the right front wheelhouse panel underneath the hood.

The horn button contact plates are actuated

by the horn ring or button contained in the steering wheel. The horn button wire has a bayonet connection at the lower end of the steering post under the hood.

Each horn consists of a diaphragm vibrated

rapidly by an electromagnet. When the electromagnet is energized, it pulls on an armature attached to the diaphragm. The slight movement of the armature flexes the diaphragm and also opens a set of contacts. With the contacts open, the electromagnet is no longer energized and the diaphragm returns to its original shape. This closes the contacts and the cycle is repeated.

The constant flexing and straightening of

the diaphragm produces vibration and sound.

A resistance unit is connected across the

contact points to reduce arcing and prolong contact life.

The horn relay consists of an electromag-

net and a set of contacts arranged so that when the magnet is energized an armature is attracted and the contacts close. A spring keeps the contacts open when the unit is at rest.

Horn Wiring

Inspect the wiring between the horn, button,

relay, and battery for loose connections, chafed insulation, corroded terminals, and for partial breaks—especially where the leads enter a conduit or are clamped by a terminal. This inspection should include the battery ground strap and the grounding of the horn through its mounting bracket.

If the horns do not operate when the horn

ring is depressed, check for breaks in the horn button circuit by grounding the relay "S" terminal. If the horns operate, the horns and relay are not defective. Then the horn button and lead should be thoroughly inspected.

The usual cause of continuous operation

of the horns is a ground in the horn button wiring. To check, disconnect the horn button lead from the relay "S" termimal. If this

stops the horn operation, inspect the button lead for grounds especially where it enters the steering column. If the horns do not stop when the "S" terminal lead is removed, disconnect the other leads from the relay and inspect the relay.

Horn Maintenance

The horns should be cleaned and inspected periodically. If horns are rusted or corroded, they should be removed for overhaul or replacement. If the horn mounting is cracked or loose, repairs should be made. To test whether the horns are inoperative, connect a jumper lead from the battery to the horn terminal. The horns should operate with this lead in place. If they do not, ground the horn frame to the chassis to check the horn ground connection. If the horns now operate, the ground connection is at fault and the horn should be removed and the mounting surfaces cleaned.

Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

If the horns are inoperative, or do not have a steady clear tone, they should be removed, cleaned, and disassembled. To remove the horn dome, place a screw driver between the dome head and the projection and loosen. Inspect the diaphragm for cracks and distortion and inspect the windings and connections for breaks, faulty insulation, and grounds.

Horn Relay Maintenance

To check the relay operation, ground the relay horn button terminal. If the relay does not close with the terminal grounded, check the wiring and horns as described previously and remove the relay for a complete test.

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series

The relay coil resistance is 4.5 ohms taken through the coil from the "S" and "B" terminals. The normal amperage draw for the low pitch horn is 13-17 amperes @ 5-7 volts. The normal amperage draw for the high pitch horn is 12-16 amperes @ 5-7 volts.

"Rambler" Series

Clean relay points with contact file. Bend brass strip on top of armature to readjust points to .03125" plus or minus .010".

SPEEDOMETERS

King-Seeley type speedometers are used. They are the magnetic type. For servicing of the speedometer head within warranty, it is recommended that the head be replaced with a unit from stock. For maintenance service after the warranty period, the speedometer head should be

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TECHNICAL SERVICE MANUAL

removed and taken to an authorized service

station.

Lubrication of the needle shaft bearing

is provided by a wick located at the rear

of the speedometer head.

The end play of the speedometer needle

shaft bearing should be inspected. This

should not exceed a maximum of .005" on the

"Hornet" and "Wasp" Series. Maximum end play

not to exceed .008" to .014" on the

"Rambler" Series.

Speedometer Cable Inspection

Always inspect the speedometer cable hous-

ing, whenever working on the speedometer,

for kinks or sharp bends in the housing.

Make sure that the cable is of the correct

length for the series required.

To insure the use of speedometer cable cores which will give quiet and satisfactory service, locate the cable core on a flat surface in the form of an inverted "U" and then cross the open ends. Hold one end in the left hand, the other in the right hand. Twist one end, applying light finger pressure to the other end. If the core is satisfactory, the turning action will be smooth. On a damaged core, although not noticeable by visual inspection, the turning action will be jerky and, in a severe case, the core will leap or jump. The speedometer cable requires no lubrication but as a sound deadener, it is beneficial to coat the cable with a light coating of high melting point grease.

BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS

Series "Hornet" "Wasp"

and "Rambler"

Make Auto-Lite Auto-Lite

Model CT-1-15 1M-100

Ampere Hours: 20 Hour Rating 105 100

Amperes: 20 Minute Rating 133

No. of Plates 15 15

GENERATOR SPECIFICATIONS

Series "Hornet" V-8 "Hornet" 6

and "Wasp"

Make Auto-Lite Auto-Lite Auto-Lite Model

With Air Conditioning Without Air Conditioning

Type Shunt Shunt Shunt

Rotation R.H. Drive End R.H. Drive End R.H. Drive End Brush Spring Tension 35-53 Ozs. 35-53 Ozs. 28 Ozs. Field Current@

6 Volts 80°F.

GGW-4801-F GGW-4801-F

GGW-4802-B GGW-4802-B

"Rambler"

1102815 1100021

1.87 to 2.00 Amperes (Model 1102815)

1.85 to 2.03 Amperes (Model 11000211

@ 5 Volts 1.6 to 1.7

Max. Controlled Charging Rate

(Controlled by Current Setting)

1.6 to 1.7

Amperes

45 Amperes 45 Amperes 45 Amperes

Amperes

(Model 1102815)

38 Amperes

(Model 1100021)

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ELECTRICAL

ELECTRICAL VOLTAGE AND CURRENT REGULATOR SPECIFICATIONS

"Hornet"

and "Wasp"

Make Auto-Lite Delco-Remy Delco-Remy Model VBE-6101-A 1118841

(Without A.C.)

Cut-Out Relay Voltage at Closing

Air Gap .031"-.034" .020" .020" Voltage Regulator Volts 7.35 6.9-7.4

Air Gap .048"-.052" .075" .075" Current Regulator

Amperes Air Gap .048"-.052" .075" .075"

6.3-6.8 5.9-6.7 Adjust to 6.4

Adjust to 7.2

43-47 34-39

Adjust to 38

"Rambler"

1118828

(With A.C.)

5.9-6.7

Adjust to 6.4

6.9-7.4

Adjust to 7.2

42-47

Adjust to 45

STARTING MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS

"Hornet"

V-8 6 Cylinder

"Rambler"

Make Auto-Lite Auto-Lite Auto-Lite Delco-Remy Model MCL-6132 MCH-6109

(Std. and O.D.)

MCH-6306

(Hydra-Matic) Brush Spring Tension 42-53 Ozs. 42-53 Ozs. 42-53 Ozs. 24-28 Ozs. Lock Test Amperage Draw 410 335 280 550 Volts 2.0 2.0 2.0 3.25 Torque in Foot Pounds 8.0 6.0 4.4 11 No Load Test Amperage Draw 65 65 70 70 Volts 5.0 5.5 5.5 5.65 R.P.M. 4900 4900 4300 5500

MCH-4167

(Std. and O.D.)

MZ-4172

(Hydra-Matic)

1107119 (Std. and O.D.)

1107136 (Hydra-Matic)

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