Hudson 1953 Jet, 1953 Super Jet Mechanical Procedure Manual

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FOREWORD

This edition of the Mechanical Procedure Manual will serve as a guide and reference for Hudson servicemen in the proper servicing of Hudson Jet and Super Jet models.

available from our service tool source, the Kent-. Moore Organization, Inc., 5-105 General Motors Building, Detroit 2, Michigan, with whom order should be placed directly by Distributors and Dealers.

The data contained in this Manual includes information covering specifications, adjustments and detailed operations involved in maintenance an d repair procedures. The operations listed herein are predicated on the use of special service tools developed for the purpose where necessary and with the work done by mechanics of average ability.

The Hudson Service Merchandiser is published each month by the Service Department to keep servicemen supplied with up-to-date information including suggestions and short cuts received from the Field, dealing with the servicing of Hudson cars. Read this publication regularly and make full use of the help it affords.

The special service tools illustrated or referred to in this book are indispensable to good workmanship and in meeting standard flat rate times. They have been developed by and are

For easy reference, the Index at the front of the book is made up of sections in alphabetical order and with each section alphabetically arranged.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX

Group Page Group Page

BRAKES 136-143 COOLING SYSTEM 53-59

Adjustment-Brakes Bleeding Brake Lines Brake Fluid Brake-Front Brake Pedal Brake -Rear Construction Lubrication Master Cylinder Parking Brake Specifications Trouble Shooting Wheel Cylinder-Front Wheel Cylinder-Rear

CLUTCH

Assembly-Clutch Construction Disassembly-Clutch Installation-Clutch Pedal Adjustment Release Bearing Removal-Clutch Flywheel Operation of Clutch Release Lever Adjustment Specifications

142 141 141 140 142

140-141

136 143

136-138

136,142

136 143 139

139-140

72-80

78 72

76-78

80 72 79 76 78 72 78 72

Anti-Freeze Chart Anti-Freeze Solution Cooling System Diagnosis Draining System Fan Belt Adjustment Inhibitor Radiator Reverse Flushing Temperature Gauge Thermostats Water Pump

Installation Removal

ELECTRICAL

Battery Breaker Points Circuit Breakers and Fuses Coil Condenser Distributor

Breaker Points

Generator

Circuit Resistance Check

Motorizing Draw Head Lamps Horn Spark Plugs Specifications

53 54 59 53 57 54 59 54

57-58

57 54 56 55

60-71

66-67

69 68 67

66-68

63-64

64 64 68 69 68

60-61

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX - CONTINUED

Group Page Group Page ELECTRICAL - Continued

Starter Motor Voltage Regulator Wiring Diagram

ENGINE

Camshaft and Bearings Connecting Rods

Alignment Bearing Sizes Installation Removal

Rod Bushings Construction Crankshaft

Installation

Removal Cylinder Head Engine Removal Lubrication Main Bearings Oil Check Valve Oil Pan Oil Pressure Switch Oil Pump Piston Fitting Piston Pins Pistons, Pins and Rings Rear Bearing Oil Seal Rear Main Bearing Specifications Timing Chain and Sprockets Timing Gear Cover Timing Gear Cover Oil Seal Valve Maintenance Valve System Valve Tappets Valve Tappets-Adjustment Valve Timing Vibration Dampener

ENGINE TUNE UP

Battery Carburetor:

Anti-Percolator Adjustment

Fast Idle Adjustment

Float Level Setting

Idle Adjustment

Metering Rod Setting

Pump Travel Adjustment

Unloader Adjustment

Coil Test Compression Condenser Cylinder Balance Test

62-63 65-66 69-70

21-40

39-40 29-32 33-34 33 37 29 31-32 23 34 36 34 27 34 23 36 24 25,27 23 25-27 30 31 29-30 36,39 39 21-22 37 38 38 40 28 29 28 40 38

8-20

19 20 18 20 19 19 20 13 9 12 10

ENGINE TUNE UP - Continued

Distributor Fan Belt Adjustment Fuel Pump Test Generator Test Ignition Timing Manifold Heat Control Spark Plugs Specifications Starter Motor Starter Solenoid Vacuum Test Valve Tappets Voltage Regulator

FRONT SUSPENSION

Center Steering Arm Front Suspension

Installation Removal

Front Wheel Alignment

Adjustment Camber Caster Pivot Pin Inclination

Toe-In Lower Support Arm Lower Support Arm Pivot & Bushing Riding Height Specifications Spindle Pivot Pin Steering High Point Steering Spindle Pivot Pin Upper Support Arm Upper Support Arm Pivot & Bushing Tie Rod Tie Rod Ends

FUEL SYSTEM

Air Cleaner Carburetor

Accelerating Pump Anti-Percolator Valve Anti-Percolator Adjustment Assembly Climatic Control (Choke) Disassembly Fast Idle Fast Idle Adjustment Installation Metering Rod Pump Travel Removal Specifications Unloader Adjustment

11-12 15 18 15 13 18 9 8 13-14 14 10 10 16-17

116-124

121 116 118 116 122-123 124 123 124 124 124 116 118 122 116 120 123 116 116 119 122 121

41-52

48 41-48 42 42 44 46 42 45 42 44 47 43 43 45 41 41

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX - CONTINUED

Group Page Group Page

III

FUEL SYSTEM - Continued

Exhaust and Intake Manifold Exhaust Pipe Fuel Level Indicator Fuel Pump Gasoline Tank Gas Tank Gauge Unit Manifold Heat Control Valve LUBRICATION Engine Oil Engine Oil Circuit Engine Oil Level Lubrication Lubrication Charts Lubrication Schedules

OVERDRIVE

Overdrive

Assembly Cleaning and Inspection

Disassembly Overdrive Housing Installation Overdrive Main Shaft Oil Seal Overdrive Shift Rail Transmission and Overdrive

Assembly

Disassembly

Installation

Removal

52 51-52 48-50

52 52 52

1-7

1-3

5-6-7

92-103

92-97

97 96-97

92 98 97 97 98

100

103

SPRINGS, SHOCK ABSORBERS AND STABILIZERS

Front Coil Springs Front Shock Absorbers Front Stabilizer Rear Shock Absorber Rear Springs Rear Spring Shackle Identification Riding Height and Spring Sag

4 4 5 4

Shock Absorbers Specifications

STEERING GEAR Steering Gear

Adjustment Assembly Construction Disassembly Installation Lubrication Removal

Specifications Center Steering Arm Drag Link Jacket Tube Bearing Steering Gear Jacket Tube Steering Wheel Trouble Diagnosis

TRANSMISSION

132-135

132 134-135 135 134-135

133 134

132 134-135 132

125-131

125 130 128 126 128 129 126 128 126 130 129 127 127 127 131

81-91

PROPELLER SHAFT

Assembly Construction Disassembly Inspection Installation Removal Universal Joints

REAR AXLE

Rear Axle

Assembly Construction Disassembly Inspection Installation Removal

Specifications Differential Assembly Drive Pinion

Removal Installation

104-105

105 104 104 104 105 104 105

106-115

106 115 106 109 111 115 109 106 109 109 110 112

Assembly Construction Countershaft Countershaft Gear Cluster Disassembly Drive Gear Bearing Retainer Inspection Installation Main Drive Gear Mainshaft Assembly Rear Bearing Retainer Removal Reverse Idler Gear Shift Shafts and Interlock Specifications Transmission Control (Handy Shift)

WHEELS AND TIRES Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment

Specifications Tightening Wheel Hub Bolts Tire Inflations Wheel and Tire Balance Wheel and Tire Run-Out

86 88 89 87 84 88 86 89 88 88 89 83 88 86 83 91

144-145

145 144 145 144 144 145

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1 LUBRICATION

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LUBRICATION 2

Page 8

3 LUBRICATION

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LUBRICATION 4

SECTION

LUBRICATION

Proper lubrication is the life of every piece of mechanism. This is particularly true of the motor car. Correct lubrication spells the difference between long life or rapid and premature wear.

For this reason, a definite plan and schedule for application is necessary in order to provide the various bearing surfaces with the right amount of the correct lubricant at the proper intervals.

It is a well-known fact that one type of lubricant will not suffice for all applications. The degree of load carried and operating conditions make necessary the use of different types of lubricants.

In order to familiarize Hudson mechanics on the proper lubrications of the engine, chassis and body; lubricating charts indicating points to be lubricated, type of lubricant to be used and the frequency of application are shown in this Manual.

NOTE: Quality lubricants are used in the course of assembling every new car. These need not be changed until the recommended mileage period shown in the Lubricating Schedule.

the oil filter passageway and permits full pump flow direct through the main oil gallery, extending the full length of the crankcase. This oil gallery is intersected by drilled leads to all main and camshaft bearings and the valve tappets.

Through the drilled crankshaft, oil pressure from the main bearings is distributed to each connecting rod bearing. An angular hole drilled through the large end of each connecting rod and upper half of bearing shell deposits a uniform spray of oil on all cylinder walls. Fitted in the front end of main oil gallery is an oil trough that conducts a small stream of oil to the timing chain and sprockets.

The oil measuring gauge seats on a tube pressed in the crankcase at the left rear side. A pressure type oil signal switch mounted above the oil pump and connected with the main oil gallery operates the dash oil signal light which shows red when the oil pressure drops below approximately 13 pounds

ENGINE OIL

ENGINE OILING CIRCUIT

Pressure lubrication to all engine bearings is maintained by a rotor type oil pump m o u n t e d on the right side of crankcase and driven by a worm gear on the camshaft. Oil is drawn by the suction side of the pump through a pipe connecting with a floating screen fixed in the oil pan.

The oil pump parts consist of an inner and outer rotor, a shaft and the body and cover. No adjustment of the pump is required. Oil pressure is regulated by a built-in, nonadjustable release valve and spring. These are accessible for inspection or cleaning through a plug opening at the left rear side of engine.

When the engine is started, the release valve has moved to a position that closes the oil passage-way to

Select oils from the well-known brands and of the proper viscosity to suit your seasonal and driving requirements.

The oil refiners or marketers supplying oils are responsible for the quality of their product and their reputation is the car owner's assurance of receiving high-grade lubricants.

It is most important that the oil should have the ability to flow at low temperatures to permit easy starting and at the same time, afford adequate lubrication when the engine is a t normal operating temperatures. The oil selected should be based on its ability to perform these two functions at the lowest anticipated temperatures expected before the next oil change period. The following table will be helpful in making this selection.

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5 LUBRICATION

FOR USE 90° Average Temperature S.A.E. 30 32° Minimum Temperature S.A.E. 20 10° Minimum Temperature 20W

-10º Minimum Temperature 10W Below -10° Temperature, 5W. or 10W plus 10% Kerosene

Your Authorized Hudson Dealer, who has had long experience with the brands of oil available in your locality, will be glad to help you with your lubrication problems.

ENGINE OIL LEVEL - The level should be checked each time you purchase gasoline. The oil level gauge is located on the left side of the engine.

WHEN TO CHANGE ENGINE OIL

The oil which is placed in the engine at the factory should b e drained and replaced after the first 500 miles of operation.

Thereafter, at intervals of 2,000 miles the reservoir should be drained and refilled with new oil of good quality. If the car is operated constantly in dusty areas or for short distances at low speeds during cold weather, which permits foreign matter and sludge to accumulate, it should be changed more frequently. However, the actual change period is largely dependent on the individual driving circumstances.

NOTE: Darkening or discoloration of oil does not always mean that it is unsatisfactory. But evidence of dilution or dirt is good indication that the oil should be changed and the filter cartridge should be replaced.

CAUTION: The use of flushing oils or compounds is not recommended. However, in the event they are used, the oil reservoir should be thoroughly drained before installing new oil.

FIGURE 3

For normal operation, the oil level is satisfactory when it is within the "Oil Level Range." For high speed operation, the level should be maintained near the full mark. (Top line on the "Oil Level Range.") Figure 3.

To make an accurate check, it is best to wait a minute or two after shutting off the engine to permit the oil to drain back into the reservoir (oil pan). Oil is added through the oil filler opening by removing the filler cap.

ENGINE OIL CAPACITIES - The total engine oil capacity is 5-1/2 quarts. When the oil is drained in the conventional manner, the refilling quantity is 5 quarts.

Approximately two quarts of oil are required to bring the level from the "Low" to "Full" mark.

BREAK-IN OIL - Should the use of so called "break- in" oils or special compounds for breaking in new engines be decided upon, make sure the supplier guarantees that they contain no harmful ingredients.

LUBRICATION SCHEDULE

The lubricants placed in your car at the time of assembly are of the best quality and need not be changed until the recommended change period shown in the Lubrication Schedule has been reached.

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LUBRICATION 6

AT 500 MILES

Drain engine oil reservoir and refill with new oil of good quality. See "Engine Oil" - Page 4.

EVERY 1,000 MILES

VISCOUS CHASSIS LUBRICANT

Points Points

Drag Link Upper Support Arm Outer Upper Support Arm Inner Lower Support Arm Outer Lower Support Arm Inner Brake Pedal Bearing

Engine Door Lock Push Button Door Hinge Door Striker Wedge Fuel Tank Filler Door Hinge and Spring

Windshield Wiper Cables at Pulleys Door Lock Star Wheel and Dovetail .. Rear Compartment Door Latch and Striker Door Check Arm

Check Oil Level

WATER RESISTANT LUBRICANT

2 2 4 2 4 1

ENGINE OIL

Points Points

4 8 4 3

Points Points

4 8

1 4

Center Steering Arm Pivot Bearing. Tie Rod End Steering Spindle Pivot Pins Clutch Pedal Bearing Rear Spring Shackle Bushing

Hood Hinge Windshield Wiper Pulley Remote Control Shift Lever Rear Compartment Door Hinge

Dome Light Switch Door Striker Hood Upper Lock Hood Lower Lock

1 4 2 1 4

8 4 1 8

2 4 1 2

E. P. GEAR LUBRICANT - S.A.E. 80 WINTER, S.A.E. 90 SUMMER

Transmission Overdrive

Hydra-Matic Drive Transmission Check Level

MULTI-PURPOSE GEAR LUBRICANT - S.A.E. 140

Rear Axle Check Level

Universal Joint Needle Rollers 2 Points

Check Battery Electrolyte Level and Gravity.

Check Coolant Level and Anti-Freeze Strength.

Check Level

Steering Gear Check Level

Check Level

HYDRA-MATIC DRIVE FLUID

GEAR OIL - S.A.E. 140

DISTILLED WATER

WATER OR ANTI-FREEZE

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7 LUBRICATION

HUDSON HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID

Check Brake Master Cylinder Fluid Level .

EVERY 2,000 MILES

Perform operations included in 1,000 mile lubrication, in addition to the following:

ENGINE OIL

Engine - Drain Oil Reservoir and Refill. See "Engine Oil," Page 4. Generator 2 Points Distributor 4 Points Air Cleaner - Standard - Wash and Re-oil

Air Cleaner - Oil Bath - Remove, wash and add new oil. Oil Filler Pipe Cap - Wash and Re-oil. Throttle Operating Linkage All Joints Brake Operating Linkage All Joints

EVERY 5,000 MILES

Perform operations included in 1,000 and 2,000mile lubrications, in addition to the following: Oil Filter Renew cartridge

E. P. LUBRICANT - S.A.E. 80 WINTER, S. A. E. 90 SUMMER

Transmission Drain and Refill Overdrive Drain and Refill

VISCOUS CHASSIS LUBRICANT

Brake Cables Clean and Lubricate

EVERY 10,000 MILES

Perform operations included in 1,000 mile, 2,000 mile and 5,000 mile lubrications, in addition to the following:

VISCOUS CHASSIS LUBRICANT

If springs are equipped with metal covers use Viscous Chassis Lubricant using special lubricating clamp. If springs do not have metal covers, do not lubricate.

MULTI-PURPOSE GEAR LUBRICANT - S.A.E. 90

Rear Axle Drain and Refill

IMPORTANT: When checking the level of the lubricant in the rear axle and transmission, make sure that the lubricant has stopped foaming. If the car has been run for a considerable length of time, it should be permitted to stand long enough to allow the oil to reach the true level before checking.

Hydra-Matic Oil Level Indicator Clean

SODIUM SOAP BASE LUBRICANT

Front Wheel Bearings Remove, Clean and Repack Rear Wheel Bearings Remove, Clean and Repack

VERY 25,000 MILES

HYDRA-MATIC DRIVE FLUID

Hydra-Matic Drive Transmission Drain and Refill

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ENGINE TUNE-UP 8

SECTION 2

ENGINE TUNE-UP

SPECIFICATIONS

Cylinder Compression Vacuum, Intake Manifold Valve Tappet Clearance (Hot) Battery Specific Gravity Starting Motor

Cranking Voltage Cranking Amperage Stall Test:

Volts Amperes Torque

Coil Amperage Draw:

Engine Stopped Engine Idling

Distributor:

Point Gap Cam Angle - (Dwell) Spring Tension Condenser Capacity Advance: Automatic

0° at 300 R.P.M. 1° at 350 R.P.M.

4.5° at 500 R.P.M. 12° at 1325 R.P.M.

13.5° at 1500 R.P.M.

Minimum 100 lbs.

17-20" Hq.

Intake .010" - Exhaust .012"

1.270

5 0 Volts

Approximately 160 Amps

2 0 Volts

Maximum Amps 280

Min. Ft. Lbs. 4.4

5.0 Amps

1 5 - 2.0 Amps

.020"

39º

17 to 20 oz.

21-25 Mfd.

Vacuum

0° at 5-1/4"

1° at 5-3/4" 4° at 7-1/2" 6° at 8-3/4"

7.5° at 9-1/2"

Generator Output: Cold - at 870 to 970 R.P.M Cold - at 1925 to 2125 R.P.M. Hot - at 950 to 1050 R.P.M Hot - at 2350 to 2550 R.P.M.

Voltage Regulator: Contact Point Gap Contact Close Contact Open (After 15 Amp Charge) Voltage Regulator Operates

Spark Plug Gap Fuel Pump (Carter) Pressure Volume

Carburetor

Float Setting Pump Travel Idle Adjustment

Climatic Control

6 4 Volts 0 Amps

8.0 Volts 45.0 Amps

6.4 Volts 0 Amps

8.0 Volts 45.0 Amps

Minimum .015"

6.3 to 6.8 Volts

4.1 to 4.8 Volts

7.25 Volts 22 Amps at 100° F.

.032"

4 lbs. min. - 5 lbs. max. @ 1800 R.P.M.

1 quart 60 seconds 500 R.P.M.

Carter - Model WAI-2009S

1/2"

16/64"

1/2 to 1-1/2 turns open

Set one point lean

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9 ENGINE TUNE-UP

ENGINE TUNE-UP

Engine tune-up is important in maintaining engine performance, fuel economy, dependability, and complete owner satisfaction. Modern high speed engines demand accurate diagnosis and adjustments. It is recommended that the engine be tuned every 5,000 miles.

The tune-up procedure that follows is arranged in the usual order of performance, which is generally: compression, ignition, carburetion. Various manufacturers of testing equipment have set up specific procedures for their units which may be followed.

Many of the tests involved in the tune-up are dependent upon a battery in good condition. If the battery is below standard it should be recharged, or replaced with a fully charged battery before the tune-up.

ENGINE

COMPRESSION

An engine that fails to develop proper compression cannot be tuned. Compression should be checked with the engine at operating temperature with a reliable compression gauge. Test is made with ignition switch off and all plugs removed.

valve. If two adjacent cylinders show low compression readings, check for a leaking cylinder head gasket or loose cylinder head.

To differentiate between ring and valve leak, place a small quantity of oil on top of each piston and re-test. Oil will temporarily seal a ring leak and result in near normal compression. Little or no improvement will be noted if valve is leaking.

Correct any unsatisfactory condition found during the compression test before continuing with the tune-up.

SPARK PLUGS

Upon satisfactory completion of the compression test, inspect, clean and adjust spark plugs.

1. Spark plugs with burned, blistered or cracked porcelains, o r with pitted o r burned electrodes, should be replaced with new plugs of the same type. For cast iron and aluminum cylinder heads, use Champion H-8 spark plugs. See "Electrical Section".

2. Adjust spark plug gaps to .032" using a bending tool and wire loop gauge.

1. Loosen spark plugs to break free any accumulated carbon.

2. Use an air hose and blow out all dirt and carbon

from spark plug cavities before removing

plugs.

3. Remove all plugs.

4. Insert compression gauge in each spark plug

hole in turn and crack engine with starter at least 4 compression strokes.

NOTE : Check reading on first and final stroke.

5. Compression at each cylinder should be at least

100 pounds and should not vary more than 10 pounds.

NOTE: If compression gauge moves up in jerky steps of 10 or 20 pounds at a time, it generally indicates a sticking or leaking

valve.

3. Install new gaskets on the plugs and replace plugs in cylinder head. Tighten to 25 to 30 pounds with a torque wrench.

4. Examine spark plug wires for loose terminals, cracked or broken insulation. Replace defective wires.

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ENGINE TUNE-UP 10

VACUUM TEST

An engine in good :condition - will show a

steady, or slight fluctuating , high vacuum reading from 18" to 21". Vacuum readings are affected by altitude. Over 2000 feet the vacuum gauge will show about one inch lower for each 1000 feet of elevation.

1. Remove wiper hose at intake manifold and connect vacuum gauge hose. (If the engine has a combination fuel and vacuum pump,disconnect the booster pump line at intake manifold.)

2. Check carburetor and intake manifold nuts for tightness.

3. Connect one lead of tachometer to the distributor primary terminal and the other lead to engine for ground. Adjust carburetor to obtain a smooth idle at 540 to 580 R.P.M. If car is equipped with Hydra-Matic Transmission, set idle speed at 490-

510. Vacuum readings at sea level may be interpreted generally as follows:

TAPPET ADJUSTMENT

1. Raise front of car, place stand jack under frame cross member and remove right front wheel.

2. Remove bolts on the fender side dust shield and attaching parts and take out shield from under the fender.

3. Remove front and rear tappet covers and breather pipe . Take out the rear tappet cover by sliding cover forward and out.

4. Adjust tappets and re-install parts.

CYLINDER BALANCE TEST

The Cylinder Balance Tester compares the eveness of the power output of each cylinder in the engine.

1. Connect the vacuum gauge in Figure 2 and set the throttle until engine is running at 1500 R.P.M.

18 - 21" Steady or with slight fluctuation: En gine in good condition. 15" Steady: Incorrect ignition timing. 10" Steady: Incorrect valve timing, or burned valves. 15 - 21" Fluctuating: Sticking valves or com pression leak. 12 - 16" Drifting: Carburetor too rich or too lean . Any number of engine conditions may cause the same action of the vacuum gauge. The exact cause must be established by process of elimination.

VALVE TAPPETS

Check the valve tappets clearance when the engine is at normal operating temperature.

Correct valve clearances are .010" for intake valves, .012" for exhaust valves.

FIGURE 2

2. Ground the master clip of the cylinder balance tester and connect individual leads to the spark plugs 2-3-4 and 5. Engine will now run on 1 and 6.

3. Note the reading on the vacuum gauge. Make the same test on each pair of cylinders in the following sequence. 6 Cylinders 1-6, 2-5, 3-4.

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11 ENGINE TUNE-UP

NOTE: A variation of more than 1 inch of vacuum or 40 R.P.M. between pairs of cylinders being tested indicates either a defective plug or unequal compression in a cylinder.

To isolate one weak cylinder, short out half the cylinders. The half giving the lower reading will include the weak cylinder.

Air bubbles prevalent in the radiator filler neck (radiator filled with coolant to th e overflow pipe) indicates a leaking cylinder head gasket, cylinder head or internal cracks in the water jackets.

An extreme blow-by at the oil filler pipe indicates defective piston rings. (Compression pressure by-passing the piston rings.)

BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY

Check the battery specific gravity with a hydrometer. A battery when fully charged should read 1.270 specific gravity at 70° F. A uniform hydrometer reading below 1.225 at 70° F. indicates a low battery that should be recharged.

it will crank the engine for 1/2 minute and the voltage does not drop below 4-1/2 volts. Slow cranking speed or lower voltage may be due to high resistance in the starter circuit. Check cables and retest. (DO NOT crank for more than 1/2 minute at a time.)

A standard cell tester may be used to make the load test. The cell tester has a shunt across the terminals which places each cell under load. Each cell should show 1-1/2 volts or over, and the variation between cells should not exceed .15 volts.

If a Starter-Battery Tester is not available, a voltmeter can be connected across the battery terminals while cranking t he engine with the starting motor. The battery is in good condition if the starter cranks the engine at a good speed for 1/2 minute and the voltage does not fall below 4-1/2 volts. DO NOT crank for more than 30 seconds without allowing starter motor to cool.

NOTE: A slow cranking speed or voltage lower than 4-1/2 volts indicates a weak cell or high resistance in the connections to the starter. Check battery cables and connections and repeat the "Load Test".

FIGURE 3

BATTERY LOAD TEST

Battery may be tested under load by connecting a voltmeter across the terminals and cranking the engine. Battery is satisfactory if

DISTRIBUTOR

1. Remove wires from cap anu inspect cap and rotor for cracks and burned or corroded contacts. Replace defective parts.

2. Clean spark plug cable sockets with tool No. KMO-230.

CONTACT POINTS

1. Inspect distributor contact points f o r alignment, corrosion, burning o r pitting and clean with carbon tetracholoride.

2. Replace burned or corroded points. If points are badly pitted, check condenser for over or under capacity.

3. With a feeler gauge set the points for the proper gap. Correct gap is .020".

NOTE: Contact points adjustment is made by loosening the clamp screw (B) Figure 4, holding

Page 17

ENGINE TUNE-UP 12

the stationary contact plate, then turning eccentric adjusting screw (D) to move the contact point. Tighten clamp screw when correct gap is secured.

FIGURE 4

4. Bend stationary contact point if necessary to secure correct alignment.

BREAKER ARM SPRING TENSION

1. Hook a spring scale to the breaker arm at the contact and pull at right angles to the contact surfaces. Tension should be 17 to 20 ounces just as the points open.

2. Adjust spring tension by loosening screw attaching breaker arm spring to plate and move end of spring in or out of clip as necessary.

CONDENSER

1. Inspect condenser lead to see that it is not frayed or broken and is connected securely to breaker arm clip. Condenser mounting screw must make tight ground to breaker plate. Ground wire from breaker plate to subplate must be securely connected.

DISTRIBUTOR DWELL TEST

Check distributor cam angle or dwell on a distributor tester to determine the cam angle or degrees of dwell of the distributor point. This should be 39 degrees with distributor contact point set at .020".

If the dwell angle is too great, the contact point gap is set too close. If the dwell angle is too small, the contact gap is too wide. An erratic reading of the Dwell Meter will indicate faulty contact, a faulty breaker plate, a worn distributor shaft and bearings. A change of dwell angle when accelerating or deaccelerating, the engine will indicate a faulty breaker plate, bearing or support plate.

VACUUM ADVANCE ADJUSTMENT

Vacuum should be checked on a distributor tester that has a controlled source of vacuum and a vacuum gauge .

If the vacuum advance range does n ot conform with specifications, it may be varied by inserting or removing washers under the sp r in g in the vacuum chamber. Carefully check for leaky diaphragm and sticking linkage.

AUTOMATIC ADVANCE

Place distributor on tester and check the advance curve R.P.M.'s against the degree of advance.

If the degree of advance is more than specifications call for at the same R.P.M., it indicates that the governor spring tension is too weak and the advance is too rapid. If the degree of advance is less than specifications, call for at the same R.P.M., the spring tension is too stiff and the advance is too slow. In most cases, the tension of the spring may be increased or decreased by bending the brackets on the weight plates to which the springs are attached, in order to make the springs conform to specifications. Check the advance both up and down the speed range so that the sluggish action of the governor will be indicated and may be corrected by cleaning and lubrication.

Check condenser with suitable equipment and if capacity is not within range of .20 to .25 MFD, replace with new part.

NOTE: Every 2,000 miles, lubricate contact arm pivot, wick top of shaft, cam lobes and 3 to 5 drops of medium engine oil at oiler.

Page 18

13 ENGINE TUNE-UP

COIL

If a faulty coil is ,suspected, the coil should be tested with a test light or approved coil testing equipment. A quick test with the coil on the car can b e made by removing the high-tension wire from the center of distributor cap and hold end of wire 1/4" from cylinder head and while cranking engine, if a spark occurs regularly the coil can be considered satisfactory.

IGNITION TIMING

1. Place a chalk mark on the long line before No. 1-U.D.C. on the vibration dampener, Figure 5.

1 piston starts up on compression stroke. Continue cranking until long line on dampener lines up with pointer. Loosen distributor quadrant screw and rotate distributor clockwise to the limit of the slot in the quadrant. Remove secondary wire from center of distributor cap and hold bare end of wire about 1/8" from the cylinder head. With ignition switch on, slowly rotate the distributor counterclockwise just until a spark jumps from the wire to the cylinder head; then tighten quadrant screw. Spark setting may be advanced with fuels of high octane rating. Correct ignition timing is indicated by a slight "ping" at about 15 M.P.H. when accelerating at full throttle from 10 M.P.H. in high gear. If no "ping" is heard, timing should be advanced one quadrant graduation mark at a time until the "ping" is heard.

CRANKING VOLTAGE

1. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the starter switch terminal (where the battery to starter cable is connected), Figure 6.

FIGURE 5

2. Connect one lead of the power timing light to No. 1 spark plug and the other lead to the negative terminal of the battery.

3. With the engine idling properly, the timing light flash should occur when the chalk mark is in line with the pointer on the timing chain cover. If timing is off, make the necessary correction by loosening the distributor advance arm screw (on octane selector) and rotate distributor clockwise for retard and counterclockwise for advance.

4. Increase engine speed. The vacuum advance should be at full retard position but should advance readily when the engine speed is in creased.

To set the timing without a timing light, remove No. 1 spark plug and crank engine until No.

FIGURE 6

2. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to engine for a ground.

3. With the ignition key off, engage the starter motor and note the reading on the voltmeter. The cranking voltage should read 5 volts or more.

CAUTION: Crank engine intermittently (not more than 30 seconds) to prevent starter motor from overheating.

Page 19

volts, check the battery and engine ground cables, starter cable and the starter solenoid to determine the low reading.

BATTERY AND ENGINE GROUND STRAPS

1. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the battery ground terminal, Figure 7.

FIGURE 7

2. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to engine ground and a jumper to the frame.

3. With ignition off, crank engine and make volt meter reading, (should not be more than .2).

4. If more than .2, check ground strap connections from battery to engine. Replace defective ground straps.

ENGINE TUNE-UP 14

FIGURE 8

AMPERAGE DRAW TEST

1. Turn battery starter test know to "off" position and the voltmeter "selector switch" to the 15 volt position and connect test leads, Figure 9.

STARTER CABLE

1. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the "BAT" terminal of the starter and the negative lead to negative battery post.

2. Crank engine again (ignition off). If the voltmeter reading is more than .2, check for loose connections or frayed cables.

STARTER SOLENOID

1. Connect negative voltmeter lead to "BAT" terminal of starter solenoid switch and positive lead to motor terminal of the solenoid switch, Figure 8.

2. Close the solenoid electrically to crank the engine; and if the reading is more than .2 volts, replace solenoid switch.

FIGURE 9

2. Press starter switch and crank engine for approximately 15 seconds and note the "exact" reading on voltmeter.

3. Release Starter Switch and turn Starter-Battery

Tester knob clockwise until the voltmeter reads "exactly" the same as when cranking the engine. Ammeter reading should be 140 to 160 amperes (engine warm).

Page 20

15 ENGINE TUNE-UP

4. Turn tester to off position after completing test.

NOTE: Excessively high readings indicate a short in the starting motor circuit or an excessive drag on the motor due to a bent armature shaft or the field coils touching the armature. Low readings indicates excessive resistance in the circuit caused by loose connections, worn brushes, or weak brush spring tension.

FAN BELT ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen generator adjusting bracket bolt (A Figure 10), Nut (B) and 2 generator support bracket bolts (D), three to four turns.

2. Apply a torque wrench approximately 12" long and as nearly vertical as possible to head of generator adjusting bracket bolt (C) and pull generator against fan belt.

3. With torque wrench indicating 10-1/2 foot pounds tighten generator adjusting nut (B) securely. Remove torque wrench and tighten remaining 3 bolts securely.

FIGURE 11

2. Install a jumper from generator field terminal to a ground. Momentarily raise the engine to about 1250 R.P.M. the reading on the ammeter should read 45 amperes minimum output.

CAUTION: The engine MUST NOT be run for more than a few seconds while making the above test, due to danger of burning out the generator. All lights and accessories must be turned off also to prevent damage due to excessive voltage.

FIGURE 10

GENERATOR

GENERATOR OUTPUT CHECK

1. Disconnect battery lead at voltage regulator "B" terminal; connect the ammeter negative lead to the regulator "B" terminal and the positive lead to the wire disconnected from the regulator, Figure 11.

NOTE: A 11 generator tests should be made with the generator circuit at normal operating temperature.

GENERATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE CHECK

FIGURE 12

Page 21

ENGINE TUNE-UP 16

2. Install the negative voltmeter lead to the generator "A" terminal an d the positive voltmeter lead to the battery negative terminal.

3. Connect a jumper between t he generator "F" terminal and a ground.

4. Run the engine at a speed to deliver 20amperes.

The voltmeter should not read more or less than 8 (tenths) of a volt.

5. If the resistance is more than .8, make the

following checks with the ammeter connected as in paragraph 1.

a. Remove the positive voltmeter lead from the battery and install to the "A" terminal at the voltage regulator. Ammeter should show less than .1 (tenth). b. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the regulator "A" terminal and the volt- m e t e r positive lead to the regulator "B" terminal. Ammeter should not show more than .3 (tenths). c. Next, connect the voltmeter positive lead to the battery negative terminal, negative lead to "B" terminal on regulator. Ammeter should not show more than .5 (tenths). d. Connect the voltmeter positive leads to en g in e ground, negative wire to base of regulator. Ammeter should show .2 (tenths) or less.

CIRCUIT BREAKER CHECK

1. Disconnect the battery wire at the voltage regulator "B" terminal and connect the ammeter between the voltage regulator " B" terminal and the wire disconnected, Figure 13.

2. Connect voltmeter positive lead to base of regulator and negative voltmeter to the generator "A" terminal.

3. Set carburetor adjusting screw so engine will

idle at approximately 400 R.P.M.

4. Increase engine R.P.M. by carefully rot a t in g

the accelerator bellcrank while watching the voltmeter.

NOTE: When the voltmeter reads at any point between 6.3 to 6.8 volts the circuit breaker points should close and the ammeter will show the generator is charging. When the circuit breaker points close, a slight drop back of the voltmeter needle will be noticed. In the eve nt the drop back is not evident, slightly discharge the battery and recheck.

5. Next, slowly reduce engine speed and watch the

ammeter.

NOTE: When the ammeter reads 4 to 6 amperes, negative side of zero, the circuit breaker should open and the ammeter needle will return to zero. Perform operation 4 and 5 several times until you are sure your readings are correct.

To determine whether the circuit breaker points are closing at the proper generator voltage and also whether they will open upon deceleration by amperage from the battery proceed as follows:

FIGURE 13

6. Proper adjustments can be made by bending the

spring hanger on the circuit breaker. Increasing the tension raises the opening voltage; decreasing the tension lowers the opening voltage. Contact gap must not be less than .015".

VOLTAGE REGULATOR CHECK

1. Disconnect the battery wire at the voltage regu-

lator "B" terminal and connect the test ammeter between the voltage regulator "B" terminal and the wire disconnected, Figure 14.

2. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the regu-

lator base and the negative lead to the regulator "B" terminal.

3. Run engine at approximately 2,000 R.P.M.

4. Vary resistance until ammeter reads 19 amperes

and then check the voltmeter reading which should be 7.25 volts. (Hot, cover in place.)

Page 22

17 ENGINE TUNE-UP

FIGURE 14

NOTE: If the car is out of warranty the voltage regulator can be set by bending the spring hanger to get this necessary reading. The unit must be final-checked with the voltage regulator cover in place as generally it will change the reading from .1 to .2 of a volt and must be compensated for in making this adjustment.

5. Stop engine, disconnect battery negative terminal and then proceed to remove the tester leaks from the voltage regulator and install the wires back on the "B" terminal of the regulator.

6. Install voltage regulator cover.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove cover and change the armature spring

tension by bending the lower spring hanger. Increasing the tension raises the operating voltage; decreasing the tension lowers it.

2. Replace cover and recheck.

FIGURE 15

2. Connect a Starter-Battery Tester directly across the battery and set load to 45 amperes or use the equivalent in sealed beam lamps.

3. Run engine to approximately 2000 R.P.M. amperage reading should be 36 amperes. If it is not within a tolerance of one or two amperes of this reading, the unit should be taken to an authorized Auto-Lite dealer for replacement.

NOTE: If car is out of warranty, remove the voltage cover and adjust the current regulator spring hanger to the necessary 36 ampere output. To prevent operation of the voltage regulator unit place a jumper across voltage regulator points during this test. For final test always replace the cover on the unit.

CAUTION: Momentarily touch t he negative battery cable to the battery negative post to determine that there is no spark between the battery negative post and cable terminal then connect negative cable.

3. After each adjustment, stop the engine and restart. Bring up engine speed to deliver 15 amperes before taking a reading.

CURRENT REGULATOR CHECK

1. Disconnect the battery wire terminal "B"and

connect the test ammeter between the voltage regulator "B" terminal and the wire disconnected, Figure 15.

CURRENT REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove cover and change armature spring tension by bending the lower spring hanger. Increasing the tension raises the operating amperage, decreasing the tension lowers it.

2. Replace cover and recheck. Stop and start engine

after each adjustment. Take readings with cover in place.

Page 23

ENGINE TUNE-UP 18

FUEL PUMP

FUEL PUMP TEST

To determine if the fuel pump is operating properly, make the following tests:

1. Be sure fuel lines are not blocked, leaking or have a stricture that would retard the flow of fuel to the pump. The flexible hose should be carefully checked for deterioration or cracks.

2. Remove and clean sediment screen.

NOTE: If the combination fuel and vacuum pump is used, in addition, remove and clean the air filter screen located under the cover at the top of the pump.

3. Make sure all connections are tight after replacement.

4. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and connect the fuel pump gauge, Figure 16.

5. Start engine and run at 1800 R.P.M. normal pressure should be 4 lbs. minimum to 5 lb s . maximum. Stop engine and watch pressure gauge. Pressure should not fall perceptible after engine is stopped.

VACUUM BOOSTER CHECK

To check the action of the vacuum portion of the combination fuel and vacuum pump, connect a vacuum gauge to the inlet port and disconnect outlet. Gauge should show 8-1/2" of mercury at 120 R.P.M. and 12" at 1800 R.P.M.

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL

Check the manifold heat control valve to see that spring is in good condition and valve is free. If damper shaft is stuck, remove the thermostat and spring, apply penetrating oil or kerosene and tap shaft for end play to break carbon or corrosion. The shaft should not be oiled. When properly freed, check springs and thermostat before installing and replace them if weak.

CARBURETOR

CLIMATIC CONTROL

1. Remove t he carburetor Climatic Control Cover. Check the heat control tube for leaks or obstruction and the choke valve and piston for free movement. Choke valve should open of its own weight when cover is removed.

2. Reinstall the cover with graduations down and rotate counter clockwise to one point lean of center graduation.

FIGURE 16

6. If pressure falls; leaking pump valves are indicated.

7. If pressure is below specifications, attach the vacuum gauge to the inlet port of the pump and operate the engine. Gauge should show a minimum of 6 inches of mercury for satisfactory operation.

CARBURETOR INLET STRAINER

1. Remove bowl cover strainer nut, gasket, and strainer screen. Clean screen and replace if corroded or damaged.

CARBURETOR FLOAT LEVEL

1. Remove air cleaner, carburetor dust cover and

screws attaching carburetor air horn.

2. Disconnect throttle connector r o d, bowl cover

and check float level with gauge J-818-1 Figure

17. Float level should be 1/2".

3. To adjust, make sure needle is seated, raise float

and press down on float lever lip with a screw driver. Bend only a small amount at a time and do not disturb the curvature of the lip.

Page 24

19 ENGINE TUNE-UP

1. With throttle valve seated and connector link i n

lower hole (short stroke) pump travel should be

FIGURE 17

PUMP TRAVEL

16/64". Use Carter Pump stroke gauge T-109117-S if available.

2. Adjust pump travel by bending throttle connecting link at lower angle.

METERING ROD SETTING NOTE: The correct setting of metering rod is

important and must be made after pump adjustment o r when leaner than standard rods are installed.

FIGURE 18

1. Crack throttle valve .020" by placing gauge J-1633 (Carter No. T-109-29) between throttle valve and bore of carburetor on side opposite the idle port, Figure 19.

1. With air cleaner and dust cover off remove hairpin clip and disconnect spring from metering rod, remove metering rod and disc.

2. Insert metering rod gauge, J-1265 (Carter No. T-109-102). Hold gauge vertical and be sure gauge is seated in metering rod jet, Figure 18.

3. Press down on vacuum piston link directly over piston until it contacts the pump arm. Clearance between metering r o d pin and shoulder of gauge should be less than .005" with throttle valve seated. Gauge must not drag on pin.

4. Adjust by bending lip on piston link at (A). 5. Re move gauge and install metering rod and disc and connect metering rod spring.

ANTI-PERCOLATOR ADJUSTMENT NOTE: Carburetor must be removed from en-

gine.

FIGURE 19

Page 25

2. Clearance between percolator rocker arm lip and pump arm should be .005" to .015"

3. Adjust by bending the rocker arm, using Bending Tool J-1389 to make this adjustment.

FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

1. With fast idle cam in normal idle position,

tighten throttle lever adjusting screw (A), Figure 20, until it just seats against the cam.

ENGINE TUNE-UP 20

FIGURE 21

IDLE ADJUSTMENT

FIGURE 20

2. Hold throttle lever closed an d pull cam back

until low step is against but not on set screw (B), Figure 20.

3. Clearance between lower edge of choke valve

and air horn should be 5/8" as shown at (A), Figure 21.

4. Adjust by bending fast idle link at offset.

UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT

I. Open throttle wide and check clearance be-

tween lower edge of choke valve and air horn. Clearance should be 7/16" (A), Figure 21.

1. Start engine and allow to warm up.

2. See that choke valve is wide open.

3. Set idle adjustment screw (A), Figure 22, 1/2 to 1-1/2 turns open to obtain smooth idle. Cars equipped with Hydra-Matic; set idle at 490-510 R.P.M., 540 to 560 for standard transmission and 575 for overdrive.

2. Adjust by bending cam (B) on throttle lever.

FIGURE 22

Page 26

MAIN BEARING SIZE

21 ENGINE

SECTION 3

ENGINE

SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE - GENERAL

Arrangement No. Cylinders Compression Pressure Firing Order Serial No. Location

Bore Stroke Piston Displacement . Horsepower - Taxable Horsepower - Actual. Torque

CRANKSHAFT

Drive Bearings Type

No.

4. Radial Clearance

End Play Timing Marks Timing Chain Timing Chain Width Camshaft Sprocket Crankshaft Sprocket

CRANKSHAFT

No.

Diameter

2.4988" to 2.4998" 1.530"

2.4988" to 2.4998" 1.500"

2.4988" to 2.4998" 1.750"

2.5006" to 2.5010"

L Head 6 100 lbs. minimum 1-5-3-6-2-4 Right Hand Front of Block 3" 4-3/4" 202 Cu. In.

21.6 104 158 ft. lbs. @ 1400 R.P.M.

Silent - Chain 4 Interchangeable - Steel Back Babbitt

Diameter Length

2.375"

1.997"

1.965"

1.497" .0005"

.003 to .005 On Sprockets and Chain 60 Links 3/8" Pitch 1" 42 Teeth 21 Teeth

x x x x x

Journal

Length

x 1.312" x 1.250" x 1.494" x 1.500"

1" 11/16" 11/16" 1-1/8"

.0015"

Diametral Clearance Adjusting Shims Crankpins End Play Thrust

CONNECTING RODS

Material Weight Length - Center to Center Bearing - Lower End

Type Diameter & Length End Play Diametral Clearance. Shims

Bushing - Upper End:

Material Diameter & Length Diametral Clearance

PISTON

Type Material Weight Length (Overall) Length - Pin Center to Top Piston Clearance Ring Groove Depth

PISTON PIN

Type Length Diameter Fit in Piston Fit in Rod

PISTON RINGS

Material Compression Rings Width Oil Rings Width - Upper Width - Lower Gap Clearance

.0005" to .0015" None

1.937" to 1.938"x

1.125" .003" to .009" On No. 3 Bearing

Forged Steel 26 ozs.

8.183" to 8.193" Precision Insert Removable Steel Back Babbitt

1.9375" x .962" .007" to .013" .0005" to .0015" None

Steel Back Babbitt .8465" x .870" 0" to .0003"

Cam Ground Aluminum Alloy 10-1/4 oz.

3.1875"

1.6875" .0015" to .002" .148"

Floating

2.4375" .7497" to .750" .000" to .0003" Hand Push Fit at 70° F.

Cast Iron Two (Pinned) 5/64" Two (Pinned) 3/16" 5/32" .004" to .009"

Page 27

ENGINE 22

INTAKE VALVES Angle of Seat Head Outside Diameter Port Diameter Lift Length Stem Diameter Stem to Guide Clearance Operating Clearance Hot Inserts

EXHAUST VALVES

Angle of Seat Head Outside Diameter . Port Diameter Lift Length Stem Diameter Stem To Guide Clearance Operating Clearance Hot Valve Angle. Inserts

45°

1.500"

1.418" .356" .5.045" .3412" to .3422" .0015" to .0025"

.010" None

45°

1.395"

1.315" .356"

5.022" .3402" to .3412" .003" to .004"

.012" 7° None

VALVE TIMING

Inlet Opens Inlet Closes Exhaust Opens Exhaust Closes Timing Marks

26.8° BTC 9

9.7° ABC

64.9° BBC 4

5.7° ATC On Vibration Dampener

LUBRICATION

Engine Lubricating Method Normal Pressure Oil Pump Type Oil Pump Drive Oil Capacity

Pressure 40 lbs. @ 30 M.P.H. Rotor Worm on Camshaft 5-1/2 qts. Total 5 qts. refill.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE

VALVE GUIDES

Type Length: Intake Exhaust Inside Diameter

VALVE SPRINGS

Free Length With Valve Closed With Valve Open Total Coils Spring Pressure -Closed

Open

VALVE TAPPETS

Type Guides Guide Size Tappet Size Fitting Clearance Length

Removable

2-5/8" 2-5/8" .3435"

2-3/16" .1.953"

1.607" 8-½ 40-48 lbs. .116-124 lbs.

Mushroom Integral with Block .6245" to .625" .62325" to .62375" ..00075" to .00175"

2.310"

Camshaft Gear Bolt Connecting Rod Bolt Crankshaft Bearing Cap Screw Cylinder Head Cap Screw Cylinder Head Water Outlet Bolt Engine Mounting Bolt (Front) Engine Mounting Bolt (Rear) Engine Mounting to Frame Bolt (Rear) Manifold (Exhaust) Manifold (Intake) Oil Pan Bolt Spark Plugs Timing Gear Cover Bolt Vibration Dampener Screw Water Pump To Cylinder Bolt

SIZE 3/8-16 3/8-24

1/2-13 7/16-14

3/8-16

7/16-20

7/16-14

5/16-18 3/8-16 5/16-18 5/16-18 14 M.M. 5/16-18

5/8-18

3/8-16

FT. LBS.

20-30 40-50

75-80

20-30

40-45

40-50

12-15 20-30 12-15 15-20 25-30 15-20

80-90

20-30

Page 28

23 ENGINE

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION

The Hudson Jet and Super Jet engines are of the "L" head design.

Crankcase and cylinder block are integra1, made of chrome alloy iron to provide maximum strength with minimum cylinder wear and weight.

The engine is cushioned against shock and vibration by rubber mountings at three points in cars e quipped with standard synchromesh transmissions. One cushion is mounted on the frame side rail at each side of the engine front support plate. The rear of the engine assembly is supported on the No. 3 frame crossmember, the cushion being attached to the under side of the clutch bell housing. Models equipped with Hydra-Matic transmissions have four rubber engine mountings, - one at each side of the transmission supporting the engine at the rear at the No. 3 crossmember. Front engine mountings are identical for both types of transmissions.

A fully counter balanced crankshaft of forged alloy steel is balanced statically and dynamically. Four precision insert type steel back babbitt main bearings support the shaft. Main bearing inserts of several undersize dimensions are available for service 'requirements. (See Parts Book) Crankshaft end thrust is taken at the No. 3 main bearing.

Connecting rods have replaceable precision insert steel back babbitt bearing shells which are interchangeable.

The camshaft is made of especially heat treated alloy iron mounted in four steel back babbitt bearings. A Morse chain and sprockets are utilized to drive the camshaft.

Mushroom type rotating valve tappets are used. The tappets are fitted directly in the crankcase and may be removed from the bottom of the crankcase after removal of the oil pan and camshaft.

Valves seat directly in the engine block with no valve seat inserts required. The exhaust valves have welded stems with the valve head and upper stem made of Austenetic Alloy steel to provide maximum heat transfer from the exhaust valve. Removable valve guides are provided for both intake and exhaust valves.

LUBRICATION

Engine lubrication is provided by pressure to friction surfaces of the engine, Figure 4. A positive rotor type oil pump is mounted on the right side of the cylinder block. The pump is driven by a worm gear integral with the camshaft.

Oil is drawn through a floating oil screen in the oil pan and the intake pipe to the pump. From the pump oil under pressure is forced up into the horizontal oil gallery. From the oil gallery, oil is distributed to valve tappets and camshaft bearings. Circulation is also provided through oil laterals to engine main bearings and through holes in the crankshaft to the connecting rod bearings which also provide cylinder wall lubrication. The oil check valve located in the crankcase on the left side regulates oil pressure.

Aluminum alloy cam ground pistons are provided. Four piston rings are utilized on each piston, steel stake pinned at the ring gaps to prevent ring rotation in the ring grooves.

Piston pins are of the full floating type held in position with steel lock rings fitted into grooves machines near each end of the piston pin bore. Piston pins operate in steel backed bronze bushings pressed in the upper ends of the rods.

NOTE: Normal oil pressure is 40 pounds at 30 M.P.H.

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

An oil pressure switch assembly is used in conjunction with the rotor type pressure pump. The function of the pressure switch is to Indicate by means of an instrument panel light when there is no oil pressure.

Page 29

ENGINE 24

The unit consists of a spring loaded diaphragm and a set of electrical contact points normally closed when the engine is not operating. The closed contact completes a ground connection to the instrument panel lighting the lamp. When the oil pump begins to operate, oil pressure breaks the ground contact, and the lamp goes out.

OIL CHECK VALVE

Oil pressure is maintained by a non-adjustable oil check valve consisting of a plunger, spring, plug retainer and plug gasket. The assembly is located in the left side of the crankcase slightly below the distributor. Oil pressure against the end of the plunger and spring forces the plunger off its seat allowing oil to return to the oil pan, Figure 1.

one cylinder. Do not disturb this position of the engine while the oil pump is removed.

2. Remove the two oil pump to block attaching screws and remove the oil pump.

FIGURE 2

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove the cover screws (1), Figure 2, cover (2) and gasket (3).

2. Hold hand over cover opening and with the pump upside down, turn shaft until the pump rotor (4) falls out in the hand.

3. Drive out straight pin (10) which holds pump drive gear to pump shaft.

4. Press shaft (7) out of gear (9) by supporting the oil pump body (8) on the cover face in an arbor press allowing the inner rotor and shaft to clear when pressing the shaft out of the pump gear.

5. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air.

FIGURE 1

OIL PUMP

The oil pump is of simple construction and very efficient providing high volume. It is a rotor type pressure pump. Service is seldom required.

REMOVAL

Care must be exercised to maintain correct engine ignition timing when it is necessary to remove the pump for servicing. The recommended procedure is as follows:

1. Lift off the distributor cap and rotate the engine crankshaft until the distributor rotor is in firing position for the number

INSPECTION

1. Install rotors and shaft in pump body with the inner rotor located so that one lobe of the inner rotor contacts the corresponding notch in the outer rotor. Measure the clearance between the opposite lobe of the inn e r and outer rotor. This clearance should be .010" or less. If more than this, replace both rotors and shaft.

2. With rotors and shaft assembled in the pump

body place a straight edge across the pump body between the screw holes and using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the top of the rotors an d the straight edge. This clearance should be .004" or less. If the clearance is greater than this limit, the pump body must be replaced.

Page 30

25 ENGINE

3. With the outer rotor (4) pressed against one side of the pump body, with a feeler gauge measure the clearance between the outer rotor and pump body at the opposite side. If this clearance is more than .008", replace the pump body.

4. Body cover (2) should be smooth. It should be replaced if scratched, grooved or worn. Lay a straight edge across the inner surface of cover and check with .002" feeler gauge between the cover and straight edge. If the feeler gauge can be inserted, the cover is worn and must be replaced.

ASSEMBLY

1. Install the outer. rotor (4) in the pump body (8),

Figure 2.

2. Slide the pump shaft (7) and rotor (5) assembly

into the pump body.

3. Support oil pump body, shaft and rotors assembly on a clean surface and press pump drive gear (9) on pump shaft (7). End play between the hub of the drive gear and pump body should be .004" to .008".

NOTE: The slot in the end of the oil pump shaft is machined off center as is the tongue on the end of the distributor shaft, Figure 4.

4. Install the oil pump, engaging the oil pump drive gear with the camshaft worm gear teeth. The pump shaft must be aligned to engage the shaft slot with the tongue on the end of the aligning tool. Then push the tool out as the pump is seated against the block mounting face.

5. Remove aligning tool J-2794'.

6. Set distributor in No. 1 firing position and

install.

7. In stall distributor mounting screw, distributor c a p , distributor vacuum control tube and connect the coil lead wire.

4. In stall gear pin and peen over both ends securely.

5. After inspecting to see that pump is thoroughly clean, install cover gasket (3) in the recess in the pump body.

6. Install cover (2). Tighten cover screws (1)

evenly and securely.

INSTALLATION

If the engine crankshaft has been rotated inadvertently during the interval the oil pump was out being repaired, ignition timing will be incorrect. The following steps will then be necessary to remedy the improper timing.

1. Remove the distributor mounting screw, dis

connect the distributor vacuum control tube, disconnect the coil lead wire and remove the distributor.

2. Set dampener timing with the No. 1 piston on

T.D.C.

3. Insert aligning tool J-2794 in the distributor

shaft hole with the aligning pin in line with the distributor mounting screw hole, Figure 3.

FIGURE 3

OIL PAN

REMOVAL

1. Raise car and place stand jacks under the No. 2 frame crossmember.

2. Remove the three bolts attaching the center

steering arm support bracket to the No. 2 crossmember. This permits the center steering arm and tie rods to drop.

3. Remove the two attaching bolts, flywheel dust

cover to bell-housing, and remove dust cover.

4. Remove oil pan drain plug and drain oil. 5. Re-

move bolts and lockwashers attaching oil pan to cylinder block and remove oil pan.

NOTE: Do not lose the round rubber gasket at the oil outlet tube.

Page 31

ENGINE 26

FIGURE 4

Page 32

27 ENGINE

INSPECTION

1. Remove all traces of old gaskets from the pan and crankcase. In s t all new gasket, applying a light coat of Hudson Perfect Seal Gasket Paste on both sides of the new gasket.

2. Remove cotter pin (1) Figure 5, attaching oil pan screen to the outlet pipe. Clean screen thoroughly or replace.

3. Install oil pan screen to outlet pipe. Check to be certain there is no binding action and screen swivels freely.

4. Secure ends of cotter pin.

3. Disconnect and remove vacuum advance control tube.

4. Disconnect top radiator hose.

5. Disconnect heater hoses (if so equipped).

6. Disconnect throttle rod at carburetor.

7. Disconnect temperature gauge wire at cylinder

head sender unit.

8. Disconnect spark plug wires and remove spark plugs.

9. Remove cylinder head cap screws and lift off

cylinder head.

10. Remove temperature gauge sender unit

from cylinder head.

INSTALLATION

1. Make certain cylinder head is free of -carbon

and dirt. Check cylinder head with a straight edge to detect roughness or warping, especially in those instances of frequent "blowing" of head gaskets. With a .010" feeler gauge, check between the straight edge and the machined surface of the cylinder head. If the feeler gauge enters at any point, the head must be remachined or replaced.

2. In stall new head gasket with lettering on gasket

up. (Apply a light coating of "Hudson Perfect Seal Gasket Paste".)

FIGURE 5

INSTALLATION

1. Install rubber gasket on outlet tube.

2. Install the oil pan to the engine, using two screws on each side until all screws have been started.

3. Tighten oil pan screws evenly to 15 to 20

pounds torque.

4. Install oil pan drain plug.

5. Install flywheel dust cover.

6. Install center steering arm support bracket and tighten bolts securely.

7. Fill oil pan with 5-1/2 quarts of motor oil

of the recommended viscosity

CYLINDER HEAD

REMOVAL

1. Drain cooling system.

2. Loosen carburetor a i r horn attaching screw

and clamp and lift off air cleaner.

NOTE: Cylinder head and gasket installation can be facilitated by using two J-2969 cylinder head locating studs t o align the gasket and head. These studs have a screw driver slot for easy removal after the cylinder head has been aligned, Figure 6.

3. Cylinder head cap screws should be tightened to 75-80 foot pounds, (Cold) using a torque wrench and retighten when engine is at normal operating temperature.

FIGURE 6

Page 33

ENGINE 28

4. Cylinder head cap screws should be tightened in the sequence illustrated in Figure 7.

FIGURE 7

CAUTION: Always clean out threads in cylinder block before installing cylinder head. If threads in the block are corroded or filled with dirt, an incorrect torque wrench reading will be indicated, as a percentage of the torque will be absorbed by the threads. Apply "Hudson Perfect Seal Gasket Paste" to threads to facilitate tightening of the cap screws to the proper tension.

VALVE SYSTEM

VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove right front wheel.

2. Remove fender side shield.

3. Remove valve covers and breather. Adjust tappets as follows:

Intake .010" hot Exhaust .012" hot

VALVE REMOVAL

The engine block is of hard chrome alloy iron and the valves seat directly in the block with no valve seat inserts required. The following procedure is recommended for removing valves:

NOTE: Place corks or wood plugs in valve chamber oil return holes to prevent valve locks from dropping through those holes into the oil pan.

6. Remove valve s from engine and place them in

proper sequence in a valve rack to assure their installation on the seats from which they were removed.

7. Check all valves and replace those badly

burned, warped or cracked.

REFACING VALVES

Remove enough metal to clean up pits and burns. Grind until a clean metal surface is obtained to provide a good seal on the seat. Do not grind to a knife edge at the top of the valve. At least 1/16" of metal should remain, measured from the upper edge of the valve seat to the top of the valve shown at (D), Figure 9. If this thickness of metal does not remain after grinding, replace the valve.

REFACING VALVE SEATS

Before refacing valve seats, it is necess a r y to clean all carbon and varnish from valve guides. Cleaning can be quickly accomplished using a KMO-122 Valve Guide Cleaner Metal Brush mounted in a small electric drill. Place a cloth below the valve guides in the valve chamber to catch dirt and excess thinner and prevent it from dropping into the oil pan. The valve guides must also be checked for excessive wear before attempting to reface the valve seats. Excessive valve guide wear can usually be detected by an oily deposit on the under side of the intake valve heads or in the intake valve ports.

STANDARD CLEARANCES

1. Drain cooling system.

2. Remove cylinder head. See 'Cylinder Head Removal", Page 27.

3. Raise car and remove right front wheel and fender shield with extension.

4. Remove front an d rear valve covers and crank case breather tube.

5. Compress valve springs and remove s p ring keepers an d retainers (use tool KMO-484 Valve Spring Lifter).

VALVE GUIDES & VALVE STEMS

INTAKE EXHAUST Valve Guide Bore .3437 .3437 Valve Stem Diameter .3417 .3407 Clearance .002 .003

When valve guides must be replaced, they may be removed by driving them out with J-267 valve guide remover after taking out tappet adjusting screws.

Page 34

29 ENGINE

Valve guides can be properly installed with the J-883-A Valve Guide Installer using pilot I-883-10. The installer consists of the driven handle, stop collar and a pilot calibrated to limit the depth to which the guides are driven. The valve guides are inserted to a depth of 1-9/32" from the top of the valve seat to the top of the guides for both intake and exhaust valve guides. (See Figure

8.)

FIGURE 8

Before starting to reface the valve seat, be sure that the stone is clean and true. Touch the valve seat lightly with the stone to avoid chatter o f the grinder. Grind seat until all pits are removed and the seat is clean.

Seats should be held to a width of from 1/16" to 3/32" inch. When the seat is too wide, difficulty is encountered trying to obtain a good seal. If a wide seat is found, grind the edge with a 20° stone until proper seat width is obtained. If necessary, an additional cut can be taken at the port end with a 75° stone if the valve does not contact the valve seat within the gauge line limits. (See Figure 9.)

VALVE TAPPETS

Valve tappets are of the mushroom rotating type with self-locking tappet adjusting screws.

The valve tappets must be removed from the bottom of the cylinder block. To accomplish this, the oil pan, and camshaft must be removed, while holding the valves wide open with J-1612-3 tappet and valve holders.

FIGURE 9

INTAKE EXHAUST

A - 45° 45° B - 1.831" 1.561" C - .1135" .1525" D - .0495" .0496 E - .083" .103" F - .016" .008" G - .054" .075" H - 1-11/16" 1-3/8"

Valve tappets should be carefully inspected f or pitting and scratches on t he mushroom faces that might damage the cam lobes. Replace any tappets that are pitted or scratched.

If the valve tappet guides are worn excessively, the tappets should be removed, the guides reamed and oversize tappets installed. Tappets available are standard, .002", .004" and .010" oversizes.

PISTONS, RINGS &

CONNECTING RODS

REMOVAL

Pistons and connecting rods must be removed through the top of the cylinder block. The oil pan and cylinder head must, therefore, be removed prior to servicing pistons and connecting rods.

NOTE: Before rods and pistons are removed, t he ridge must be removed from the upper cylinder walls with a Ridge Reamer. This is necessary to prevent cracked or broken piston lands or piston rings.

Page 35

ENGINE 30

PISTON & SIZE CODE

When a piston is being replaced, it should be

of the same weight as the one removed. A com A code letter is $tamped on the cylinder block along the lower race of the valve chamber to show the original size of each cylinder. A code letter and the piston weight in ounces and quarter ounces is stamped on the head of each piston. In addition, each piston is also stamped during original factory installation with the block

plete set of new pistons should always be of the

same weight because unequal piston weight can

cause unbalance and rough engine operation.

NOTE: Piston sizes shown in the chart are t he

major diameters at the top of the piston skirt at

"A", Figure 10, just below the chamfer under the

No. 3 ring groove. number and the number of the cylinder in which each piston is fitted.

The difference between the cylinder size

shown on the chart and the piston size shown give

s the recommended piston and cylinder clearance.

KEY TO CODE MARKINGS

PISTON, CYLINDER, RING SIZES

(Ring Oversizes Apply Only to

Production Type Rings)

CYLINDER PISTON PISTON RING

Size Code Size Code Size

FIGURE 10

EXAMPLE: The piston from the No. 2 cylinder of a certain engine is marked as shown in Figure

10. The number "547" stamped on the piston is for identifying this piston as one of a matched set to be installed in the No. 2 cylinder of the engine block bearing the s am e number. The number is

3.005

3.0015

3.0025

3.0045

3.0055

3.0075

3.0105

3.0115

3.0125

3.0145

3.0205

3.0215

3.0225

3.0305

3.032

B D

BO DO

stamped on the front of the cylinder block td the right of the water pump. The mark "B" i s the code le t t e r stamped on both the piston and the lower face of the valve chamber. By referring to the Code Marking Chart, in the next column, the definite size of the piston and cylinder bore can be determined. The "10" stamped on the top of this 3 indicates that the weight of this piston is 10-3/4 ounces. Similarly, a piston stamped "10" would

Cylinder bore sizes from standard to .030" over-

size are given in this chart and the recommended

piston and ring sizes for each bore size.

It is always advisable to hone the cylinder to the

smallest dimension for which a given ring is recom-

mended. Ring oversizes shown in the table are avail-

able only in production type rings. Service piston rings

are available in .003", .005", .010", .015", .020", and

.030" oversize for this engine. 1 indicate a piston weight of 10-1/4 ounces. The

PISTON FITTING

number "2" is the number of the cylinder in which the piston is to be installed.

Pistons are cam ground to eliptical shape.

B D

P BO DO

FO LO BB DD

FF B000 E000

2.9985

2.9995

3.0005

3.0025

3.0035

3.0055

3.0085

3.0095

3.010

3.013

3.0185

3.0195

3.0205

3.0285

3.030

3.000

3.003

3.005

3.010

3.015

3.020

3.030

Page 36

31 ENGINE

Under normal operating temperatures, expansion of the piston bosses forces the piston to assume a circular form.

The pistons are also tapered, measuring approximately .0007" to .0012" larger at the bottom of the piston skirt than at the thrust face.

Cam grinding makes careful fitting of the piston in the cylinder bore necessary. A .002" feeler gauge 1/2" wide, extending the full length of piston travel, is inserted between the cylinder bore and the thrust face of the piston directly opposite the valve mechanism. The feeler gauge should be moved by a pull of from 3 to 4 pounds. Use Tool J-888 to measure the pull. A variation of .001" will change the pull on the feeler gauge only a few pounds. Use of the scale will eliminate guesswork.

NOTE: Check the piston fit in the cylinder bore when both the cylinder block and piston are at room temperature (70° F). Always be certain that the ridge at the top of the cylinder has been removed before attempting to fit pistons.

PISTON PINS

Piston pins are of the full floating design. The pin rotates in the connecting rod bushing with sufficient movement in the piston to equalize wear. The piston pin hole is diamond bored for close fitting of the pin.

The piston pin and connecting rod bushing should be replaced if necessary. Select the proper size pin to fit the piston and ream the connecting rod bushing to size.

To remove the piston pin, remove the piston pin lock rings. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to 200°F. in water o r in an electric furnace. (Never heat-the piston with a blow torch as this may distort the piston.) Push the piston pin out with hand pressure, using Tool J-2948 Piston Pin Remover. If the pin cannot be removed by hand pressure, tap lightly on the tool with a hammer while holding the piston in one hand. Do not hold the piston solidly during this operation as distortion and misalignment could result.

CYLINDER BORING Before fitting pistons, examine the cylinder

walls for scratches, scores and wear. Cylinders should be checked for taper and out of round with a Cylinder Checking Gauge KMO-913. It is recommended that the cylinder bores be reconditioned when the taper exceeds .020" and out of round is greater than .005"

Honing will remove cylinder wall scratches and scores up to .005" metal depth. An experienced operator can remove metal up to .010" to .015" depth. Reboring is recomm e n d e d only where cylinders are so badly scored, worn, tapered or out of round that honing will not provide a satisfactory finish.

After boring operations have been completed, the cylinder walls should be polished with crocus cloth dipped in kerosene. If the cylinder walls have been either honed or rebored, they should be thoroughly washed with soap and water, using a brush to remove all traces of grit, chips and abrasive materials. Otherwise, extremely rapid wear of new parts will result.

Piston pins should be a tight hand push fit in the piston bores with the pistons heated t o 200° F. P i s t on pins are available for service in the oversizes shown and are identified with a color code by a spot of paint on the end of each pin. Following is a chart show in g pin sizes, color code and bushing diameters after reaming:

PISTON BUSHING SIZE PIN DIAMETER COLOR DIAMETER

Standard .7499 None .7502 .001" .7509 Yellow .7512 .002" .7519 Orange .7522 .005" .7549 White .7552 .010" .7599 Blue .7602 .015" .7649 Green .7652 .020" .7699 Brown .7702

If the pin selected cannot be installed with hand pressure, enlarge the hole with an expansion reamer or a hone. Take very light cuts until the pin can be fitted to the piston as outlined above.

CONNECTING ROD BUSHINGS

Connecting rod bushings are steel back bronze burnished in place in the connecting rod bore and

Page 37

ENGINE 32

and diamond bored to very close tolerance.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

Press out the old bushing by supporting the bushed end of the connecting rod on Bushi n g Burnisher Block J-2951 and press the bushing out, using Bushing Remover and Replacer J-

2948. Press the new bushing in place in the connecting rod bore. Be certain the oil hole in the bushing is aligned with the oil hole in the connecting rod bore. Burnish the bushing in place, using burnishing tool Z-2949, (Figure 11).

NOTE: This operation swages or expands the bushing i n the rod bore. This prevents the bushing from working out of the rod.

The bushing should b e reamed .0003" larger than the piston pin diameter. To ream, remove the connecting rod bearing cap and mount o n Aligning Fixture J-874-H Arbor (1.9375 diameter). (Tighten rod on arbor and lock in position by tightening the arbor lock screw located on the side of the fixture.)

Mount the reamer pilot bushing in the face plate bore on the upper end of the fixture and lock the lower arbor in place with the locking handle. Insert the reamer through the connecting rod bushing and into the pilot bushing an d perform the reaming operation, (Figure 12).

FIGURE 12

CONNECTING RODS

FIGURE 11

Connecting rods are drop forged heat treated steel with an I-beam section. An oil metering hole is provided in the upper half of the connecting rod bearing to provide an oil spray for cylinder wall lubrication. This oil metering hole indexes with the hole drilled in t he crankshaft as the piston approaches top dead center on each piston stroke. This sprays additional oil on the exposed cylinder wall.

Connecting rods have steel backed babbitt lined bearing inserts, with upper and lower halves interchangeable in all rods. Bearing halves are held in position by the extruded portion of the bearing shell fitted into notches machined in the rod and cap.

Replacement bearings require no reaming or fitting. Connecting rods are interchangeable. When replacing rods, the weight of new rods should not vary more than 1/4 ounce in any one group of rods.

Page 38

33 ENGINE

NOTE: New bearing inserts should be installed only in pairs. Never file bearing caps to provide proper clearance when installing new bearings.

Before installing new connecting rod bearings, the crankpin journals should be checked for wear, out of round and taper. Crankpin out of round should not exceed .0015" and taper no more than .001". Measure journals vertically and horizontally with a micrometer and check at both ends for taper.

Diametral clearance of the connecting rod bearing should be .0005" to .0015" and the rod end play .007" to .013". The clearance can be checked either by the plastigage or shim method.

PLASTIGAGE METHOD

1. Remove the bearing caps one at a time and insert a length of plastigage slightly shorter than the cap width.

2. Install the bearing cap with a new standard

insert and tighten to 40 to 45 foot pounds torque. Do not rotate the crank-shaft while the plastigage is in place.

3. Remove the bearing cap and check the width

of the flattened plastigage. If the width is not over .00225", a standard bearing should be installed.

CONNECTING ROD BEARING

SIZES, CRANKPIN

DIAMETERS AND CONNECTING

ROD BORES

BEARING

SIZE

Standard .0622"

.0005" US .0627"

.002" US .0632"

.010" US .0672"

.012" US .0682"

SHELL

THICK-

NESS

.0619"

.0624"

.0629

.0669"

.0679"

CRANKPIN

DIAM-

ETERS

1.938"

1.937"

1.9376"

1.937"

1.936"

1.935"

1.928"

1.927" .1926"

.1925"

CONNECT-

ING

ROD

BORES

2.0630"

2.0625"

2.630"

2.0625"

2.0630"

2.0625"

2.630"

2.0625"

2.0630"

2.0625"

After tightening the connecting rod bolt nuts to the proper torque, install Palnuts snug against the bolt nuts. Then tighten the Pal- nuts 1/4 to 1/3 more to lock the Palnuts in position. New Palnuts should always be used when rods are reassembled.

CONNECTING RODS

SHIM METHOD

1. Place brass shim stock .0015" thick, 1/2" wide

by 7/8" long in the bearing cap with a new standard bearing in place.

2. Tighten the bearing cap to 40 to 45 foot pounds torque.

3. Try to move the rod endwise by hand, then tap

lightly with a hammer. If the rod will not move by hand, but moved when tapped with the hammer, a standard bearing should be used. If the rod can be moved by hand, install an undersize bearing.

Bearing shell thickness, crankpin diameters and connecting rod bores are given for standard and various undersize bearings.

PIN TO ROD ALIGNMENT

1. Remove connecting rod bearing shells and mount rod on the arbor, (Figure 13).

2. Place the "V" block against the piston pin. The amount of misalignment will be shown by the clearance between the pins on the "V" block and the face plate.

If the two top pins contact against the face plate and the two bottom pins fail to contact the face plate, the rod is cocked or bent. The same condition exists if the bottom pins contact the face plate and the upper pins show a clearance. When the pins in a horizontal plane contact the face plate and the other two do not, the connecting rod is twisted.

Page 39

FIGURE 13

ALIGNING ROD WITH PISTON

A quick check of a piston and connecting rod assembly can be made for both twist and b end without disassembling the piston from the connecting rod.

1. Mount the connecting rod and piston assemby on the alignment fixture and set the piston in line with the connecting rod.

2. Place the "V" block on the piston skirt. If both pins

on the "V" block contact the face plate, then the rod is straight.

3. With the "V" block on the piston skirt and the pins

against the face plate, rotate the piston first in one direction and then in the other. If the pins on the "V" block contact the face plate at all points, the connecting rod is not twisted. If one pin leaves the face plate while being rotated in one direction and the other while being rotated in the opposite direction, the rod is twisted.

To straighten a bent or twisted rod, use two Bending Bars HM-3-R, one to hold the rod and

ENGINE 34

the other to bend or twist the rod into proper alignment. Always bend beyond the true alignment position and then bend back straight to relieve the stress that results from the bending operation. If the stress is not relieved, the rod will not hold its alignment after installation in the engine.

CRANKSHAFT

The crankshaft can be removed from the engine without removing the engine from the car. However, it is more practical to remove the engine when replacing the crankshaft.

ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: After removing the transmission the

engine can be removed as one unit with the electrical units and carburetor attached.

1. Re move the two hood hinge bolts from each side at the rear of the hood.

2. Lift and remove hood.

3. Drain cooling system, open drain at bottom right side of radiator. Remove drain plug from left rear side of the engine.

4. Disconnect the throttle linkage.

5. Disconnect the fuel line at the junction of the

fuel pump flexible hose and steel gas line.

6. Remove the bolts from the exhaust pipe to the

exhaust manifold flange.

7. Remove the radiator hoses.

8. Disconnect the remote control rods at the

transmission.

9. Disconnect the wire at the starter motor and

remove the cable from the battery.

10. Disconnect the water temperature gauge wire

from the side of the cylinder head.

11. Disconnect the oil gauge light wire.

12. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the wind-

shield wiper motor.

13. Remove the two generator lead wires.

14. Disconnect the primary coil wire.

15. Remove slotted head screw holding the

breather tube to the rear tappet cover.

16. Remove the bolt from the bracket attaching the

breather to the engine end plate.

17. Remove the nine hexagon head self-tapping

screws holding the hood lock lower support panel to the fender tie panel and remove the support panel.

Page 40

35 ENGINE

18. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the radiator to the channel, also remove the four nut s located inside the radiator channel. Lift the radiator up and out of the channel.

19. Remove the two front engine mounting bolt nuts.

20. Drain engine oil.

21. Disconnect the rear end of the propeller shaft at the rear axle companion flange, lower shaft and pul1 rearward out of transmission. Remove transmission.

22. Remove the nuts from the clutch throwout lever

release rod.

23. Attach motor lift bracket and raise engine up and

out of chassis, and place engine on bench or motor rebuilding stand.

CRANKSHAFT REMOVAL

1. Remove the flywheel housing dust cover.

2. Remove the clutch. See "Clutch Removal", and

remove the flywheel.

3. Remove the oil pan.

4. Remove the vibration dampener cap screw,

lock, and remove the vibration dampener. Using Puller J-5371, Figure 14. See "Vibration Dampener Removal".

9. Remove front and rear main bearing caps using Bearing Puller J-2955.

NOTE: The No.2 and No.3 main bearing caps can be reversed in error, therefore place punch marks on caps and cylinder block to insure that caps are returned to their original position.

10. Remove No. 2 and No. 3 main bearing caps.

11. Lift out the crankshaft.

12. Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies from the cylinder block and carefully place them on the work bench and cover them with a clean cloth.

13. Use clean rags in bores of cylinder to catch any

foreign material during replacement of crankshaft.

FIGURE 14

Do not hammer on dampener to remove.

5. Remove gear case cover.

6. Remove camshaft gear and timing chain.

7. Using Puller J-471, remove the crankshaft gear (Figure 15).

8. Remove connecting rod palnuts, attaching nuts and remove connecting rod caps. Be sure caps are installed on connecting rods

FIGURE 15

Before installing the crankshaft a n d bearings, the crankshaft should be checked for wear, out of round and taper. The limit on out of round and taper of main bearing journals should be no greater than .001". Check with micrometers horizontally and vertically. The recommended main bearing clearance is .0005" to .0015". Proper clearance can be checked by either the plastigage or shim methods.

To check clearance with shim stock, remove one bearing cap at a time. Install a pie ce of brass shim stock, .002" thick by 1/2" wide by 1" in length c r o s s w i se in the bearing. Oil the shim stock freely to avoid bearing or journal damage. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to a torque of 75 to 80 foot pounds. A considerable drag indicates

Page 41

ENGINE 36

correct clearance. Rotate the crankshaft only 1/4 to 1/2 revolution. If no drag is felt and the crankshaft can be rotated freely by hand, an undersize bed ring shell should be installed, Figure 16.

FIGURE 16

Ma in bearings are available in .001", .002", .010" and .012" undersizes. Bearing upper and lower halves are interchangeable. Bearing she are ink stamped on the back with the part number. Bearings should be replaced in pairs; never use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Main bearing insert sizes, crankshaft and cap bores are shown in the following table:

MAIN BEARING, CRANKSHAFT

AND CAP BORE DIAMETERS

BEARING

SIZE

Standard

.001" U. S.

SHELL

THICK-

NESS

.0955" .0952"

.0960" .0957"

CRANK-

SHAFT

DIA.

2.4998"

2.4988"

2.4998"

2.4988"

CAP

BORE

DIA.

2.692"

2.691"

2.692"

2.691"

machined notch at one end of the main bearing caps and bores. Place the tool at the end of the upper bearing insert opposite the notch and rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction to remove. Turn in a counter-clockwise direction to install new bearing upper halves.

FIGURE 17

REAR BEARING OIL SEAL

1. Remove old seals from crankcase and rear bearing caps and thoroughly clean grooves and flanges.

2. Using a new seal coat lips of seal and groove with liquid soap and press seal over flange in crankcase and bearing cap.

NOTE: Both halves of seal are identical and must be pressed in place so that bottom of groove i n seal contacts the bearing cap and crankcase flange all around: Edges of upper and lower seals may project slightly beyond parting line of cap and crankcase.

.002" U. S.

.010" U. S.

.012" U. S.

.0965" .0962"

.1005" .1002"

.1015" .1012"

2.4978"

2.4973"

2.4898"

2.4893"

2.4878"

2.4873"

2.692"

2.691"

2.692"

2.691"

2.692"

2.691"

Main bearing upper halves can be removed and replaced without removing the crankshaft from the engine. Use tool KMO-734 Bearing Shell Remover and Replacer, Figure 17. En ter tool in crankshaft oil hole with hinged head against the bearing end. Bearing shells are held in position by an extruded end end fitting into a

CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION

1. Remove the rags from cylinder bores, oil bores, clean pistons, rings and connecting rods and install in block.

2. Place crankshaft in main bearings and install main bearings and bearing caps. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 70-80 ft. lbs. After installation of new main bearing shells, crankshaft end play must be checked. The shaft thrust limits are .003" to .009". End play can be determined by using a dial indicator. Move the crankshaft in one direction until the shaft thrust surface contacts against the bearing thrust surface as outlined above.

Page 42

37 ENGINE

Mount a dial indicator on the block with the indicator pin against the crankshaft rear flange. Pry the shaft in the opposite direction to its limit and note the total amount of end play shown on the dial indicator.

3. Install connecting rods to crankshaft, torque connecting rod bolt nuts t o 40-45 foot pounds and install palnuts.

4. Install wick packing into the vertical holes (1)

and (2), Figure 18, in front and rear caps first, then into the horizontal holes (3) of the front bearing cap.

of more than 3/4" from a straight line at the lower span indicates a worn chain that should be replaced. Check the sprockets for excessive wear conditions. If considerably worn, replace the sprockets.

INSTALLATION

1. Align keyway in crankshaft sprocket with key in crankshaft.

2. Using J-5369, Installer, and with a hammer drive crankshaft gear on until it seats against shoulder on crankshaft, Figure 19.

FIGURE 18

NOTE: When installing a new packing, use a blunt punch with a diameter slightly smaller than the packing groove. Punch end should be not shorter than 4 inches to insure seal bottoming.

Packing must be compressed until it bottoms in the packing grooves, and enough packing installed to make a solid seal flush with front face and bottom face of the bearing caps.

5. Clean all traces of the old front support gasket

from front face of cylinder block. Install a new gasket and the front support plate.

6. Install new oil pan gaskets and oil pan. Tighten

all screws to 15-20 foot pounds.

TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS

The timing chain is non-adjustable. To check for chain and sprocket wear, rotate the crankshaft until the upper span of the chain is tight. Deflection

FIGURE 19

NOTE: After the crankshaft sprocket is insta lle d, rotate the crankshaft until the key way is in a vertical position at the top, Figure 20. The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket will be approximately 60° from the vertical. (This places the #1 piston at top dead center in firing position.)

The timing chain has two punched side links 7 full lengths apart, shown as (A), Figure 20.

3. Mount the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the marks matched on the sprocket and chain.

4. In s t all the timing chain over the crankshaft sprocket with the chain and sprocket timing marks matched.

5. Rotate the camshaft until the camshaft screw holes match those in the camshaft sprocket and install the three mounting cap screws.

6. Install safety wire through the three cap screw heads.

Page 43

FIGURE 20

FIGURE 21

TIMING GEAR COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

The timing gear cover has an oil seal which fits closely over the vibration dampener hub to prevent oil leaks at the forward end of the crankshaft. The oil seal is a tight press fit in the cover and can be removed with the J-2776 Timing Gear Oil Seal Remover and Installer.

1. Place the collar with the slot engaging the depression in the cover.

2. Support the cover and drive the seal out with the straight side of the driver.

3. Before installing a new seal, apply a coating of white or red lead in the well in the timing cover and install the oil seal in the cover using the tapered side of the driver tool to press the seal tightly in place.

NOTE: After the seal is installed, recheck to make certain that lip of seal is in good condition.

ENGINE 38

1 Dampener cap screw.

2. Dampener cap screw lock.

3. Pulley attaching screw nut.

4. Pulley attaching screw lockwasher.

5. Dampener cushion (front).

6. Dampener pulley.

7. Dampener.

8. Dampener cover plate.

9. Dampener cushion (rear).

10. Pulley to dampener screw.

11. Dampener hub.

12. Dampener key.

VIBRATION DAMPENER

NOTE: One of the six bolts attaching the pulley to the vibration dampener is offset 1/16" to insure assembly in original position, Figure 21.

REMOVAL

1. Drain cooling system and remove radiator. Remove nuts from front motor support and raise engine approximately 1/2 inch.

2. Remove dampener screw (1) and lock plate (2) install J-5371, Vibration D ampe ne r Puller and remove dampener assembly.

TIMING GEAR COVER INSTALLATION

1. Use a new timing gear cover gasket and install cover assembly. Install all screws finger tight.

2. With radiator off and engine raised install vibration dampener assembly (see Vibration Dampener Installation).

3. Then tighten timing gear cover screws toapproximately 15-20 ft. lbs.

INSTALLATION

1. Align the dampener hub keyway (12) on the crankshaft.

2. Using J-5369, Installer, and soft hammer install vibration dampener assembly.

3. Install lock plate (2) and dampener screw (1). Tighten screw (1) to 80-90 ft. lbs.

4. Lower engine, replace motor support nuts, radiator and engine coolant.

Page 44

39 ENGINE

REAR MAIN BEARING

OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

(ENGINE IN CAR)

1. Drain engine oil and remove flywheel dust pan and engine oil pan.

2. Remove the two bolts holding rear main bearing cap in place and loosen No. 2 and No. 3 bearing cap bolts 2 to 3 turns.

3. Using J-2955 Puller, remove No. 4 main bearing.

4. Using a blunt screw driver raise lip of oil seal at rear of crankcase, and with 1/4" brass rod drive out old seal sufficiently so that end of seal can be grasped with pliers and pulled out.

5. Remove oil seal from main bearing cap and clean the channel at the crankcase rear flange and in the bearing cap by forcing a swab through the channel several times and wipe dry.

6. Apply a liberal amount of liquid soap to both ends of the Brummer seal and along the groove of the seal.

7. Insert the end of the seal in the crankcase groove and work the seal carefully around the crankshaft until the end appears on the opposite side.

CAUTION: Exercise extreme care during seal installation to void scuffing the soft center sealing cushion at the bottom of the seal groove.

Replacement bearings are available f o r service both reamed and unfinished. The finished bearings are sufficiently oversize to the proper dimensions when pressed into place. This eliminates the necessity of reaming or scraping bearing for proper clearance.

Service replacement camshaft bearings are a press fit of .0026" to .0055" in the cylinder block bores.

NOTE: When pressing new bearings in, always install bearings with the locating notch at the top. It is advisable to remove the engine from the car if it is necessary to replace all camshaft bearings.

CAMSHAFT REMOVAL

1. Drain cooling system, remove radiator hoses and remove radiator.

2. Remove right front wheel.

3. Remove right hand fender side shield.

4. Disconnect vacuum pump line, windshield wiper hose and fuel pump.

5. Remove distributor.

6. Remove oil pump.

7. Remove valve covers and crankcase breather pipe.

8. Using KMO-484 Valve Lifter, compress valve springs and raise tappets.

8. Install the new seal in the bearing cap being careful to see that the flange on cap fits the groove in the seal.

9. Apply oil liberally between the seal flange and the crankshaft journal and install rear bearing cap.

10. Install the rear bearing cap bolts and tighten to

75-80 ft. lbs. torque.

11. Tighten the cap screws on No. 2 and No. 3

main bearing to 75-80 ft. lbs.

12. Install wicking in the grooves between the No. 4

bearing cap and crankcase, Figure 18, Page 37.

CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS

Camshaft bearings are line bored in or iginal production to close tolerance and seldom have to be replaced. If bearing clearance becomes excessive, new bearings can be pressed in place after the camshaft and oil bearings have been removed.

Hold tappets in the raised position using J-1612-3

Tappet Holders or an alternate method as outlined in the April, 1951 is- s u e of the Service Merchandiser, Page 180.

9. Loosen front motor support bolt nuts and raise engine 1/2" to facilitate removal of dampener.

10. Remove vibration dampener screw, lock plate nuts and lock plate and pull off dampener with Puller J-5371.

11. Remove dampener key and gear case cover.

12. Align gear markings and remove camshaft sprocket, chain and crankshaft sprocket using tool J-471.

NOTE: Before the camshaft is removed from t he block end play should be checked. The range should be .003" to .005". With a pry bar, move the camshaft toward the rear of the engine.

Check

Page 45

ENGINE 40

Check between the camshaft forward bearing and thrust plate with a feeler gauge. If end play is more than .010", replace the thrust plate.

13. Remove camshaft and thrust washer.

NOTE: The camshaft can be removed between the grille louvres, rotate the camshaft and withdraw slow ly and carefully to prevent camshaft or bearing damage.

INSTALLATION To install, reverse procedure of removal.

NOTE: Timing chain and sprockets should be installed with No. 1 piston on top dead center with marks on sprockets 7 links or 14 inches apart as shown in Figure 20.

VALVE TIMING

The valve lash should b e set at .010 on the intake and .012 on the exhaust for checking the timing events, if the dial gauge on the valve head is to be used to indicate the point of opening and closing. If the points of opening and closing are to be determined by the use of feeler gauge the valve lash should be increased from the above dimensions by the thickness of the feeler gauge used.

The timing events in crankshaft angles are as follows:

Intake Opens 26.8° BTC Intake Closes 99.7° ABC Exhaust Opens 64.9° BBC Exhaust Closes 45.7° ATC

2. Insert a .002" feeler gauge in No. 1 intake tappet and

rotate engine in direction of rotation until exhaust valve begins to close. Continue to rotate engine very slowly until a light drag is felt on the feeler gauge.

3. At this point, inspect the timing marks on the

dampener. The engine is correctly timed when the No. lUDC mark (long mark) is 1" from the pointer. This would show the first small mark 1/4" before the pointer.

FIGURE 22

4. Reset No. 1 intake valve to recommended

clearance of .010" hot or .012" cold and reinstall tappet cover.

The above figures are for a new engine. The initial chain stretch which occurs within the first 5,000 miles of driving is usually sufficient to retard the events approximately 2°.

VALVE TIMING CHECK

To determine if valve timing is correct without dismantling the engine, the following procedure may be used:

1. Remove the front tappet cover and adjust the tappet clearance of No. 1 intake valve to .010 with engine hot or .012 with engine cold.

VALVE MAINTENANCE

If valve tappets, with proper clearance, are noisy the following should be checked:

1. Tappets loose in their guides.

2. Tappets not properly rotating causing uneven wear on tappet faces.

3. Weak valve springs.

4. Valve sticking in valve guides.

5. Valves loose in valve guides.

6. Valve springs cocked or not seating properly.

7. Warped valve.

8. Valve seat and guide not in alignment.

Page 46

41 FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

(Medium stroke). Use gauge No. T-109-117S

Choke: Climatic control, set 1 point lean.

Butterfly type, off set valve. Choke

heat suction hole in body, size No.

FULL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

SECTION 4

SPECIFICATIONS

Make

Type

Main Venturi

Primary Venturi

Flange Size

Secondary Venturi . Float Level

Idle Adjustment

PumpPlunger Travel from closed to Wide Open Throttle

Low Speed Jet Tube

Vent

Gasoline Intake

Idle Port

Idle Port Opening

Idle Screw Seat

Carter WA1-2009S

Single Throat Down Draft

1-3/8"

11/32" I.D.

1-3/8"

11/16" I.D.

1/2"

1/2 to 1-1/2 turns open

16/64"

Jet Size No. 65 drill. By-pass size No. 53 (.0595") drill. Economizer, in body .0545" - .0555" diameter. Idle bleed, size No. 53 (.0595") drill.

Outside only No. 10 drill.

Square vertical needle.

Length .165", Width .030".

120" to .124" above valve with valve tightly closed.

No. 46 drill.

Main Nozzle

Metering Rod Jet

Metering Rod

Metering Rod Setting:

Use Gauge J-1265 Carter T-109-102

Accelerating Pump:

Pressure type spring operated lever with adjustable stroke.

Pump Adjustment - 16/64" plunger travel.

40 (.098") drill.

Anti-Percolator Valve

Vacuum Spark Port:

Slip nozzle, flush type, (angle tip) seats in primary venturi at 45° angle. Discharge jet size .110" diameter inner nozzle (seats in slip nozzle),. Inside diameter No. 31 drill (.120") drill.

.1015" Diameter

(75 - 864)

Saxophone Key

.051" - .054" diameter. Bottom of port .020" above valve.

Page 47

FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST 42

the engine is flooded during the starting period.

As the choke valve opens, the fast idle cam moves away from the screw allowing the engine to run at normal idle speed.

ANTI-PERCOLATOR VALVE

When the car stands in extreme ly hot weather or after a hard run, fuel in the carburetor bowl may vaporize and set up pressure in the bowl. To prevent this pressure forcing the fuel out the high speed nozzle (percolating), a saxophone key type anti-percolator valve vents the carburetor bowl to the atmosphere when the throttle is closed, relieving the pressure in the bowl, Figure 2. An antipercolator valve that opens too early will allow excess air to be drawn into the high speed circuit. If the valve fails to open, it will cause difficult starting when the engine is hot.

FIGURE 1

CLIMATIC CONTROL (CHOKE)

The Climatic Control c1oses the choke valve when the engine is cold. The Climatic Control is connected to the exhaust manifold by a tube (J-Figure 1) which allows exhaust gases to enter through the opening into the control housing and warm the thermostatic spring (C) and decreases the spring tension. A Vacuum piston (D) is connected to the choke valve and operates from the vacuum of the intake manifold. The pull of the piston against the thermostatic spring opens the choke valve (H) as the engine becomes warm.

FAST IDLE

A cam on the choke valve shaft is brought against an adjusting screw when the choke is closed. The screw is adjusted to hold the throttle open sufficiently to provide necessary engine speed (fast idle) during the warm up period. An unloader (G) is provided in the choke linkage to open the 'choke valve when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed. This allows the engine to clear itself of excess fuel if

FIGURE 2

ACCELERATING PUMP

The carburetor incorporates a throttle operated accelerating pump, Figure 3, which discharges additional fuel into the carburetor

Page 48

43 FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

throat when the throttle is opened. The discharge is prolonged by the pressure of the pump and the restriction of the pump jet. This discharge allows time for the high speed circuit to furnish necessary fuel.

mixture passes and the vacuum piston returns the metering rod to normal position for mechanical operation through the throttle linkage.

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT PUMP TRAVEL

1. Remove the carburetor dust cover and back out throttle adjusting screw to seat throttle valve.

2. Pump connector link should be in the lower hole (short stroke), Figure 3.

3. Pump travel should be 16/64". Use Carter Universal Pump Stroke Gauge T-109-117-S if

available. Adjust pump travel by bending throttle connecting link at lower angle. Figure

FIGURE 3

METERING RODS

The amount of fuel admitted to the carburetor throat through the high speed circuit is controlled by a stepped and tapered metering rod. Figure 2. Opening the throttle raises the metering rod allowing more fuel to pass through the jet. At top speed the smallest section of the metering rod is in the jet. Under heavy load at part throttle and for acceleration at part throttle, a richer than normal air fuel ratio is required. To provide this richer mixture, regardless of throttle position, the metering rod is connected to a vacuum piston. Under normal operating conditions the vacuum piston holds the metering rod down against the throttle link. When the engine vacuum drops, a spring under the vacuum piston raises the piston and metering rod, allowing more fuel to flow through the jet. As soon as the engine vacuum rises, the need for rich

FIGURE 4

METERING ROD SETTING

1. Remove air cleaner and carburetor dust cover.

2. Remove hairpin clip and disconnect spring from metering rod and remove metering rod and disk.

Page 49

3. Insert metering rod gauge J-1265 (Carter No. T-109-102). Hold gauge vertical and be sure gauge is seated in metering rod jet, Figure 4.

4. Press down on vacuum piston link directly

over piston until it contacts the pump arm. Clearance between metering rod pin and shoulder of gauge should be less than .005" with throttle valve seated. Gauge must not drag on pin. Adjust by bending lip on piston link at (A).

5. Remove gauge, install metering rod, disk

and reconnect metering rod spring.

ANTI-PERCOLATOR ADJUSTMENT NOTE: Carburetor must be removed from

engine.

FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST 44

FIGURE 6

UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove carburetor air cleaner, open throttle wide open and check between lower edge of choke valve and air horn (A) Figure 7, clearance should be 7/16".

2. Adjust by bending cam (B) on throttle lever

using Bending Tool J-1137.

FIGURE 5

1. Crack throttle valve .020" by placing gauge 1-1633 (Carburetor No. T-109-29) between throttle valve and bore of carburetor on side opposite the idle port, Figure 5.

2. Clearance between percolator rocker arm lip

and pump arm should be .005" to .015", Figures 5 and 6.

3. Adjust by bending the rocker arm at (A) Figure 6, using bending Tool 1-1389 to obtain this clearance.

FIGURE 7

FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

1. With fast idle cam in normal idle position tighten throttle lever adjusting screw (A), Figure

Page 50

45 FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

8, until it just seats against the cam.

2. Hold throttle lever closed and pull cam back until low step is against but not on set screw (B), Figure 8. Clearance between lower edge of choke valve and air horn should be 5/8" (A), Figure 7.

3. Adjust by bending fast idle link at offset portion,

(C).

4. Remove nuts and lockwashers from the carburetor mounting studs and remove carburetor assembly.

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove fast idle cam and pin assembly.

2. Remove air horn and climatic control assembly and lift off air horn gasket.

3. Disconnect throttle connector rod; then remove bowl cover with all parts attached. Remove throttle shaft arm assembly.

4. Check throttle rod for wear at both ends and at hole in pump arm. Remove bowl cover gasket and pump spring.

5. Remove the metering rod jet and gasket assembly.

6. Remove the low speed jet assembly.

7. Remove the pump jet plug and gasket assembly and pump jet.

FIGURE 8

IDLE ADJUSTMENT

1. Start engine and allow engine to warm up.

2. See that choke valve is wide open and set idle adjustment screw to obtain smooth idle at 540 to 560 R.P.M. on cars equipped with Standard Transmission (490-510 R.P.M. for cars e quipped with HydraMatic Transmission).

NOTE: Normal setting is 1/2 to 1-1/2 turns open.

CARBURETOR REMOVAL

1. Remove air cleaner and disconnect throttle

linkage at carburetor.

2. Disconnect gas line from carburetor to fuel

pump and disconnect vacuum line from carburetor to distributor.

8. Remove the pump discharge ball retainer and gasket, and check ball.

9. Remove nozzle passage plug, nozzle retainer plug and nozzle. (Be sure to remove small nozzle gasket from casting.)

10. Remove the pump strainer and pump intake

ball check.

11. Separate the body from flange assembly and

remove the body flange gasket.

12. Remove idle adjustment screw and spring.

NOTE: Check for groove on seating surface.

13. Remove idle port rivet plug with rivet extractor

KMO-481.

14. Remove throttle valve screws, valve and

throttle shaft and lever assembly. Check shaft for wear or loose lever and throttle rod hole in lever for wear.

3. Disconnect heat riser tube from exhaust manifold to carburetor.

15. Remove choke valve screws, choke valve,

shaft and piston assembly from air horn.

Page 51

FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST 46

Do not remove the piston housing (attached to the air horn with rivets).

16. Remove all parts from the bowl cover.

ASSEMBLY

1. Clean casting and metal parts thoroughly with a good commercial carburetor cleaning compound.

2. Examine each p art and replace any part that shows wear. Use all new choke gaskets, and new screws on throttle and choke valve.

3. Install strainer and strainer nut and gasket

assembly.

4. Install needle seat and gasket assembly.

NOTE: Check for wear. II either the needle or the seat shows wear, replace both.

5. Install the needle, float and lever assembly, and float lever pin. Check float for dents and wear on lip, and float pin for wear. Check bowl cover for wear in hole. Set float lever to 1/2" by bending lip (A), Figure 9, that contacts the needle. Do not bend float. Measure distance from projection on b owl cover to soldered seam of float.

FIGURE 9

6. Install throttle shaft and lever assembly and

throttle valve. Small "C" in circle should be toward idle port facing manifold side of flange

Figure 10. Center the valve by tapping valve lightly before tightening screws. Peen ends of screw threads to keep screws from loosening.

FIGURE 10

NOTE: Back out throttle lever adjustingscrew before installing shaft assembly.

7, Install idle port rivet plug.

8. Install idle adjustment screw and spring. Back out from seated position 1/2 to 1-1/2 turns. (Make final adjustment after installation).

9. Assemble body and flange assembly. Install screws

and lockwashers. Pul1 screws down evenly.

10. Install low speed jet assembly. (Be sure jet seats firmly in casting.)

11. Install pump jet and pump jet passage plug and gasket assembly. (Be sure jet is clear of all restrictions and seats properly.)

12. Install pump check ball and pump discharge ball retainer and gasket.

13 Install pump intake check ball and pump strainer. 14 Install pump spring and pump plunger and rod

assembly. Examine leather of plunger for damage. If leather is not in good condition, replace entire plunger assembly.

15. In stall metering rod jet and gasket assembly. Examine for wear. If jet is worn, replace both metering rod and jet.

16. Install the bowl cover assembly. Pull screws down evenly. Install idle passage plug and gasket assembly. (Center of bowl cover) .

17. Install the anti-percolator cap and rocker arm assembly and spring. (Make certain that leather is in good condition and that pin is not worn.)

Page 52

47 FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

18. Install pump arm and countershaft assembly. Install connector link on pump shaft in lower hole in pump arm.

19. Install the throttle shaft arm and screw assem-

bly and throttle connector rod. Check throttle shaft arm for wear.

24. Install air horn and piston housing assembly. Install screws and lockwashers. Tighten screws evenly.

25. With choke, lever,screw and link in place, install choke shaft and piston assembly. Check for loose lever on shaft.

26. Install choke valve. Center choke valve on

shaft and in bore by tapping lightly. Hold in place with finger while tightening screws. Peen ends of screw threads to keep screws from loosening.

27. Install the piston housing and thermostatic coil

assembly with indicator marks at bottom and rotate counter-clockwise to center graduation.

28. Hold choke valve wide open, then tighten the

choke lever screw. Be sure that the linkage does not bind in any position. Fast idle, unloader and lockout adjustments should be made as specified under "Carburetor Adjustments".

29. Install fast idle cam and pin assembly.

FIGURE 11

20. With the throttle connector rod in place, adjust pump stroke. Use Carter Universal Pump Travel Gauge T-109-117S or machinists scale, Figure 11, and set pump travel 16/64". Adjust by bending throttle connector rod at lower angle.

21. Adjust metering rod after pump adjustment is

made. (See Figure 4). Insert metering rod gauge 1-1265 in place of metering rod, seating tapered end in jet. With throttle valve seated, press down lightly on piston link directly over piston. There should be less than .005" clearance between metering rod pin and shoulder of notch in gauge. Gauge must not drag on pin. Adjustment can be made by bending lip (A) on piston link so that it contacts hump on pump arm (B). Remove gauge, install rod and disc, and connect spring.

22. Adjust anti-percolator as outlined on Page

44, Figure's 5 and 6.

CARBURETOR INSTALLATION

NOTE: Place one gasket above and seven below the deflector. Replace broken or damaged gaskets and straighten deflector if damaged

1. Install carburetor and install nuts and lock washers on the carburetor mounting studs (E), Figure 12.

23. Install nozzle, nozzle retainer plug and nozzle

passage plug and gasket assembly.

FIGURE 12

Page 53

FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST 48

2. Connect vacuum line from distributor to carburetor

(F) and gas line from fuel pump to carburetor (G).

3. Connect heat riser tube from exhaust manifold to

carburetor (H) and throttle to carburetor, install clamp.

4. Adjust and test carburetor for maximum

performance.

5. Install air cleaner.

NOTE: Do not tighten air cleaner clamp so tight that carburetor air horn will be distorted

AIR CLEANER, DRY

(OIL WETTED TYPE)

The oil wetted type air filter can be cleaned by removing the attaching wing nut and lifting out the unit. Clean off old oil and dirt by dipping in kerosene and blowing dry. Re-oil by dipping unit in engine oil (using the same grade as used in the engine). Permit excessive oil to drain off and reinstall unit in the cleaner.

AIR CLEANER

(OIL BATH)

1. Loosen long clamp screw at cleaner base, lift off

complete cleaner.

2. Remove the wing nut at top of cleaner, lift out filter

element and wash element in kerosene. DO NOT oil.

3. Remove oil, wash out base and refill to level indi-

cated with one pint of S.A.E. 50 oil at temperatures above 32° and S.A.E. 20 oil at temperature below 32 degrees.

FUEL PUMP

A Carter mechanical fuel pump M-729SZ Figure 13, is used as standard equipment. A combination fuel and vacuum pump is also available as an option. The pump cam lever (A) fits under an eccentric on the camshaft. Rotation of the camshaft forces the cam lever down against the diaphragm spring (G) pressure, raising the diaphragm (H). Fuel is drawn into the fuel chamber through the inlet port (L) screen (M), and the inlet valve (I). When the low side of the eccentric is against the cam lever, the diaphragm spring forces the diaphragm down, expelling fuel through the o u t le t valve (N) and outlet port (K) to the carburetor bowl.

Continued pump operation fills the carburetor bowl, and the float needle valve closes the carburetor inlet. Fuel pressure built up in the pump fuel chamber opposes the diaphragm spring, resulting in shorter strokes until the pump stops completely. Normal diaphragm stroke is about 1/64".

FUEL PUMP TEST

1. Make sure all connections and cover screws are tight after replacement.

2. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and connect the fuel pump pressure gauge.

3. Start the engine and run at 1800 R.P.M. Pre s sure should be 4 to 5 pounds. Stop engine and watch pressure gauge. Pressure should not fall perceptibly.

4. If pressure falls, leaking pump valves are indicated.

FIGURE 13

5. If pressure s below specifications, attach vacuum gauge to inlet port of pump and operate engine. Gauge should show 6" of mercury or higher for satisfactory operation.

6. If fuel pump pressure is low, but vacuum reading satisfactory, difficulty is in the gasoline tank or lines to the pump.

7. If pump pressure and vacuum are both low,

pump should be repaired or replaced.

Page 54

49 FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

VACUUM BOOSTER TEST

To check the action of the vacuum portion of the combination fuel and ;vacuum pump, connect a vacuum gauge to the inlet port and disconnect outlet. Gauge should show 8-1/2" of mercury at 120 R.P.M. and 12" at 1800 R.P.M. If vacuum is not within these limits, repair or replace pump.

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect fuel lines from pump. On combination pump disconnect vacuum lines also.

2. Remove cap screws, fuel pump and gasket pack.

FUEL PUMP DISASSEMBLY (CARTER)

1. Mark pump body and valve housing with a file to insure correct reassembly.

2. Remove cam lever return spring (E), Figure 13, cam lever pin rivet plug (B), retainer (C), and pin (D), and cam lever (A).

4. Install cam lever (A), pin (D), pin retainer (C), and new rivet plug (B).

5. Flex diaphragm and hold in maximum down position and tighten valve housing attaching screws.

6. Install cam lever return spring (E).

3. Remove six valve housing screws (F), valve housing (I), the two valve housing cover attaching screws, valve housing cover (0), outlet air dome diaphragm (P), and strainer (M).

4. Remove diaphragm assembly (H).

NOTE: Do not remove valve cage assemblies (I) and (N) unless they are to be replaced.

5. Clean all parts in gasoline. (Do not use a strong solvent or cleaner on valve housing.)

6. Inspect parts for wear.

FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY (CARTER)

1. Assemble strainer (M), outlet air dome diaphragm (P), valve housing cover (0), and attach to valve housing.

2. Install diaphragm assembly (H), in pump body with flat spaces on sides towards port.

3. A1ign mark on pump body with mark on valve housing (J) and install housing, but DO NOT tighten screws.

FIGURE 14

FUEL AND VACUUM PUMP (AC) - DISASSEMBLY

1. Mark the vacuum section cover and fuel section

cover to insure parts are reassembled in their correct position.

2. Hold pump in vise, remove 2 fuel cover screws

from opposite sides and insert 2 headless screws No. 10-32 x 1-1/2". After guide screws are installed remove balance of screws and vacuum section cover.

3. Press down on rocker arm (13), Figure 14 and

unhook diaphragm link assembly (9) from inner pump arm (12).

4. File riveted end of rocker arm pin (10) flush with steel washer or drill off end with a 3/8" drill. Drive out rocker arm pin. Wiggle rocker arm (13) until link (11) is unhooked from diaphragm shaft (19). Re move rocker arm bushings, arm (13), spring (16), link (15), link (12) and link (ii).

Page 55

FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST 50

5. Remove fuel pump cover screw (26), gasket (25), cover (24), gasket (23) and screen.

6. Remove screws attaching fuel section to center section and remove fuel section, diaphragm (19), valves (21) and (22).

ASSEMBLY

1. Assemble link spacer (15) over fuel link (11). Place one vacuum link (11) and (12) on each side of the fuel link. The hook ends of the vacuum link should come together so that they surround the fuel link. All link hooks should point in the same direction. Place assembly of links and spacer between lobes of rocker arm with one spacer washer on the outer side of each vacuum link. Slide rocker arm bushing (14) through holes in rocker arm spacer washers and links. Retain the parts in position by using AC Tool PT-6 or a long straight 3/16" pin.

2. Place diaphragm spring in position and assemble

pull rod and diaphragm assembly (19) through boss in fuel body, hooking pull rod over end of link.

3. Drive out tool PT-6 with a new rocker arm pin

(10). Place washer over small end of new pin and spread pin end with a round nose punch.

4. Place valve and cage gaskets in recesses on fuel

cover. Inlet valve must have three legged spider facing out of cover, outlet valve must have three-legged spider facing into cover. Install retainer and screw.

8. Turn cover over and set screen in recess over valve hole. Set screen retainer on screen. Place cover gasket (3), cover (2), cover screw gasket and cover screw (1) in position and tighten cover screw.

9. Assemble oil seal on vacuum diaphragm pull rod in the following sequence: oil seal spring, upper retainer, oil seal washer, and lower retainer. Turn lower retainer 90 degrees to lock in position.

10. Lift the pump body above eye level, facing the

vacuum diaphragm flange. The two vacuum links will swing down so that the diaphragm pull rod can be hooked to both links.

11. While holding vacuum diaphragm in position,

the body should be clamped in a vise, v a c u u m side up. Clamp by one of the mounting flange ears. The vacuum diaphragm must be held leve1 with body flange during the following operations by inserting a 3/32" piece of metal between rocker arm stop and body. This spacer can be made from a piece of steel, 3/16" to 3/32" by 8 inches. Bend one end to form a right angle hook, 3/8" from bend to end. (This tool is available from your AC jobber as tool PT-8).

12. Place spring retainer on riveted end of diaphragm

pull rod, and place spring on the retainer. Place vacuum cover and valve assembly over spring and align the file marks.

5. Install strainer screen, bowl gasket (23), bowl (24), bowl screw gasket (25) and bowl screw (26). Install air dome (20).

6. In stall fuel cover on body, making sure that file

marks on cover and body line up. Push on rocker arm until diaphragm is flat across body flange. Install cover screws and lockwashers loosely until screws just engage lockwashers. Pump the rocker arm three or four full strokes and tighten cover screws alternately until secure. Diaphragm must be flexed before tightening cover screws, or pump will deliver too much pressure.

7. Place two gaskets and two valves and cage

assemblies (17) and (5) in cover. Secure valve and cages with retainer and screw.

13. Insert the two No. 10-32 x 1-1/2" screws in opposite holes in cover flange. Turn these long screws down as far as they will go without forcing, alternating a few turns on each. Insert regular screws with lock washers and tighten until screws just engage lockwashers. Place two long screws with regular screws and lockwashers.

14. Remove 3/32" spacer from rocker arm posi-

tion. This allows the heavy vacuum spring to push diaphragm into a flexed position. Tighten all cover screws alternately until secure.

15. Combination fuel and vacuum pump cannot be

bench tested because of the heavy vacuum spring. Use a vacuum gauge and test pump while pump is assembled to engine.

Page 56

51 FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST

INSTALLATION

Install in reverse order of removal. Make sure the flange gasket, mounting stud insulator bushings and washers are installed properly.

FUEL LEVER INDICATOR

The fuel level indicator is of the constant voltage type. It consists of a voltage regulator, panel indicator and a tank level unit connected by a single wire system between the units. Figure 15.

FIGURE 15

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Its function is to regulate the variable (input) voltage available from the car storage battery, or the charging system, to produce a constant 5.0 volt output to the gauges. This regulator is a simple device, operating with a heater bimetal in conjunction with a pair of contacts.

FUEL LEVEL GAUGE

With the tank empty, the float holds the slide rheostat (variable resistance) at maximum resistance causing the gauge to read empty. With the tank full, the slide rheostat is moved to the minimum resistance point causing the gauge to read "Full" with the ignition switch on. The use of the bimetal in the fuel indicator provides stability of reading and eliminates pointer fluctuation incidental to

surging in the tank and the float bobbing on the surface of the fuel.

GAUGE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS

GAUGE TESTING EQUIPMENT

One new OK tank level unit (constant voltage type), one new OK panel fuel indicator gauge and three ten-foot lengths of No. 16 insulated wire equipped with clip terminals at each end of wire.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

The constant voltage regulator is common to both fuel and temperature system, that is, one regulator is used to operate both systems .

METHOD OF CHECKING

1. If both gauges read considerably too high- for example, if the gas gauge reads up the scale with an empty gas tank and the temperature gauge reads up scale with a cold engine, the constant voltage regulator is not working properly and should be replaced: (Check ground connections of the voltage regulator as grounding is essential to the proper functioning of the regulator).

2. If both gauges read too low, either the input

voltage to the C.V. regulator is below 5.0 volts or the voltage regulator is inoperative and should be replaced. Check battery voltage output before replacing regulator.

PANEL INDICATOR CHECK

1. Disconnect lead wire at gas tank gauge unit.

2. Hook in a new tank unit.• Ground tank unit.

Place float in empty position. Turn on ignition switch. Panel gauge should read at (E) on dial.

3. Move float to full position, panel gauge should

read full (F).

NOTE: If check 2 and 3 are OK, both panel gauge and lead wire are OK. If checks 2 and 3 are not OK, hook up a new tank unit to proper terminal of panel gauge and eliminate the lead wire from the panel indicator to the unit from the regulator circuit. Repeat empty and full check. If now operating OK, correct or replace bad wire between tank unit and panel gauge.

Page 57

FUEL SYSTEM & EXHAUST 52

GAS TANK UNIT

If there is any question about the tank level unit being OK, took the tank unit up in series with a panel indicator and a constant voltage regulator known to be OK and a six volt battery. Operate tank level unit by hand and see if panel indicator reads empty (E) with tank level unit float in bottom position, and reads full with level unit float in top position. If the panel indicator and lead wire function properly with a new OK tank unit, but did not function properly with original unit, replace original unit.

NOTE: Be sure tank unit is properly grounded to gas tank and also that the tank is grounded to the frame.

GASOLINE TANK

REMOVAL

1. Raise car and drain the gasoline tank and dis connect the fuel gauge wire and fuel line.

2. Remove the two nuts and washers attaching gas tank straps to rear compartment floor and re move gas tank.

3. Remove the gas tank gauge unit and gas tank outlet pipe.

INSTALLATION

1. Install gas tank gauge unit (use new gasket).

2. Install outlet tube and install gas tank.

3. Install gas tank straps and draw tank up into position.

4. Connect gauge wire and fuel line and lower car.

EXHAUST AND INTAKE

MANIFOLDS

INSTALLATION

Reverse the procedure of removal.

HEAT CONTROL VALVE

REMOVAL

NOTE: For removal, follow same procedure as exhaust manifold removal and, in addition the following operation.

1. Disconnect outer spring and retainer and remove heat control spring.

2. Remove the two nuts holding cover to manifold. Remove c over and anti-rattle spring.

3. Use a drift to remove the tapered pin. This will allow removal of the shaft and butterfly.

INSTALLATION

Reverse procedure of removal.

FRONT EXHAUST PIPE

REMOVAL

1. Raise car.

2. Remove two bolts attaching exhaust pipe flange.

3. Remove bolt and nut from bracket attaching exhaust pipe to engine support plate.

4. Remove bolt and nut and clamp attaching exhaust pipe to auxiliary muffler.

5. Disconnect exhaust pipe and remove from under car.

NOTE: Forcing the auxiliary muffler to the rear on the mounting will help in the removal of the exhaust pipe.

REMOVAL

Remove both manifolds as a single unit.

1. Remove air cleaner by loosening the attaching screw at the carburetor air horn.

2. Disconnect the throttle rod at carburetor.

3. Remove the fuel line, vacuum line and heat riser tube from carburetor.

4. Re m o v e the two bolts attaching exhaust pipe flange to exhaust manifold.

5. Remove the eight nuts, four washers, and four retainers attaching manifolds to block and re move manifolds with carburetor attached.

INSTALLATION

1. Install new front exhaust pipe from under car, and connect at front of auxiliary muffler, do not tighten clamp.

2. Install clamp at engine support plate but do not tighten.

3. Connect exhaust pipe flange to exhaust manifold and tighten securely.

4. Tighten clamps at auxiliary muffler, also at engine support plate.

Page 58

53 COOLING SYSTEM

COOLING SYSTEM

SECTION 5

ANTI-FREEZE CHART

Protection

Temperature

-10

-20

-30

Hudson

Anti-Freeze Qts.

4-1/4

5-1/2 6-3/4 7-3/4 8-3/4

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

The cooling system is of the pressure type and has a cellular tubular radiator, a centrifugal six vane impeller pump and a 17" four blade radiator fan with the blades unevenly spaced to minimize noise.

The engine block contains a brass water distributing tube with holes properly spaced to direct the flow of water around the cylinders for efficient cooling.

By-pass thermostats are used to permit rapid engine warm up by restricting circulation of the coolant through the radiator and by-passing it through the cylinder block until the coolant temperature rises sufficiently to open the thermostat. The temperature range of the thermostats is as follows:

Methonal

Qts.

3-1/4 4-1/4 5-1/4

6-3/4

A pressure type radiator cap which is designed t o maintain a constant pressure in the cooling system under normal operating conditions is used

CAUTION: When removing pressure cap while the engine is hot, always turn cap slowly counter clockwise until the stop is reached. Keep the cap in this position until all pressure is dissipated; then turn cap fully and remove.

DRAINING SYSTEM

To drain the cooling system open the radiator drain cock located at the lower right corner. Also remove the pipe plug in the cylinder block located at the rear left side. Remove the radiator cap to prevent air lock.

Ethylene Glycol

(Prestone or Equivalent) Qts.

4 5-1/4 6-1/4 7 7-3/4

The standard thermostat starts to open at 150° to 155° and is fully open at 175°.

The high temperature thermostat starts t o open at 165° to 170° and is fully open at 195°. (For use with Permanent Anti-Freeze.)

RUST AND SCALE -DEPOSITS

Scale or rust tends to obstruct the flow coolant through the water passages of the cylinder block and radiator, when such formation is excessive, it prevents proper heat

Page 59

COOLING SYSTEM 54

dissipation and results in overheating. This, in turn, cause loss in lubrication efficiency and accumulation of carbon, varnish and sludge.

If overheating exists due to clogging of the engine portion of the cooling system, the conditions should be corrected by the use of a reputable solvent or a reverse flushing.

CAUTION: Care must be used in the selection of cleaners as some of them contain strong acids or caustics that will react with the metal of the radiator core, eating holes through the metal and causing the radiator to leak.

REVERSE FLUSHING

Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the radiator using air pressure and flushing in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water .

USE OF INHIBITOR

The regular use of a cleaning and an inhibiting fluid in the cooling system and periodic reverse flushing will greatly reduce the formation of rust, s c ale and corrosion. The logical time for flushing and introduction of inhibitor is when the antifreeze is installed in the fall and when it is removed in the spring.

ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTION

There are several anti-freeze solutions available that are satisfactory for automobile cooling systems. Among them are denatured alcohol, methanol (synthetic wood alcohol) and ethylene glycol. Do not mix different basic types of antifreeze.

The alcohol type antifreeze solutions are subject to evaporation, especially on heavy runs, and should be tested frequently. Add as necessary to protect the cooling system for the lowest anticipated temperature:

CAUTION: These liquids, if spilled on the car, should be washed off immediately with a generous quantity of water to prevent damage to the finish.

It is advisable to tighten or replace all hose connections. It is important that the cylinder head be kept tight to prevent leakage.

If evaporation o c cur s with the use of ethylene glycol, it is only necessary to add water to the solution; however, the cooling system should be watched closely for leaks, and should be tested when additional water is required.

CAUTION: Solutions containing salt, calcium chloride, soda, sugar, or mineral oils such as kerosene or engine oil should never be used in the cooling system as they either clog the water passages or damage the hose connections and other parts.

A good inhibitor should be kept in the cooling system at all times. The effectiveness of any inhibitor is limited to about six months after which the cooling system should be flushed, refilled and new inhibitor added.

Hot water heaters should be flushed separately. Deposits build up in the heater core just the same as they do in the radiator core and will decrease the efficiency of the heater.

WATER PUMP

The water pump features a permanently lubricated ball bearing for the pump shaft and a nonadjustable packing. A permanent seal, which makes repacking unnecessary, is used to prevent leakage around the water pump shaft.

A large drain hole at bottom side of pump body allows for drainage and acts as a vent to minimize moisture formation in the pump assembly.

Page 60

55 COOLING SYSTEM

The pump shaft is mounted in a permanently lubricate d double row ball bearing with grooves in the :shaft to furnish race-way for the bearing balls and provide a means of taking end thrust of the fan and pump.

The bearing and shaft are retained in the pump housing by the shaft bearing retainer.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

1. Drain the cooling system.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the radiator to remove the pump; however, use care when removing and installing the pump.

2. Loosen the bolt in fan belt and generator adjusting bracket and move generator in toward the cylinder block to remove the fan belt.

3. Disconnect hose from the water pump inlet.

4. Remove the bolts and nut from the generator

adjusting bracket to cylinder block and remove bracket.

The bearing and shaft is serviced as an assembly only. The water pump pulley hub is not part of the shaft and must be removed from the old shaft and installed on the new shaft.

WATER PUMP SHAFT, SEAL AND BEARING INSPECTION

1. Clean the bore in the pump body and check for scores and wear.

2. Check the pump body at the area of the impeller and if the impeller has been scraping the body, it indicates improper clearance.

3. Check seat and if necessary replace seal. Using a brass drift and working through hub bore of pump, drive out seal assembly.

4. Revolve bearing slowly by hand, using hand thrust load. If bearing does not drag or feel rough, it can be reused.

5. If steel seals at ends of bearing, outer races are loose so they can be turned with fingers, the bearing should be replaced.

5. Remove the four bolts and lock washers attaching fan blades to fan pulley and hub, and remove the fan blades.

6. Remove bolts attaching water pump to block

and remove the water pump.

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove the water pump shaft retainer (7) and

old gasket (13), Figure 1.

2. Press out the pump shaft and bearing assembly

with water pump pulley hub attached using adapter plate between body and pulley hub.

The slotted adapter is placed between the body and the pulley hub to support the lower part of the body to eliminate spring-back and possible body fracture when removing the water pump shaft. The adapter (J-2778-3) is included in S-2778 Holding Fixture.

6. Worn shafts and shafts with a worn spring retainer groove should be replaced.

ASSEMBLY

1. Assembly the shaft and bearing in the water pump body.

NOTE: Bearing should be slight press fit into pump body, and assembled so that the groove on the outer race is aligned with the retainer wire slot in pump body bore.

CAUTION: When pressing bearing and shaft in housing, press against face of outer ring, not against shaft.

2. In stall seal assembly (10) as seal outer retainer is a press fit in pump body. Be sure seal is properly aligned. Use of a steel tube 1-5/8" outside diameter will facilitate assembly.

3. Lubricate the shaft with engine oil and press on the

Page 61

WATER PUMP - LEGEND

COOLING SYSTEM 56

1. Body pipe plug

2. Fan blade bolt and lockwasher

3. Generator adjusting bracket

4. Fan blade assembly

5. Pulley hub

6. Pulley assembly

7. Bearing retainer

fan pulley hub. Support the flange of the hub and apply pressure on the impeller end of the shaft. Maintain proper pulley spacing. This dimension should be 5-1/64" from the front face of pulley hub to rear end of shaft (A-Figure 1).

4. Install impeller on shaft, be sure front face of impeller is free of nicks and burrs. Support pump on fan end of shaft when installing impeller.

NOTE: Impe11er and shaft must protrude .007" to 017" beyond cover face of pump body, Figure

INSTALLATION

1. Remove all traces of the old pump to block gasket and install new gasket and pump to engine. Be sure the proper gasket is used in order to insure correct impeller to body clearance and install attaching bolts and tighten

8. Bearing and shaft assembly

9. Shaft slinger

10. Shaft seal

11. Impeller

12. Body

13. Body to cylinder block gasket

14. Cylinder block

to 20 to 30 foot pounds.

2. Install fan belt.

3. Install pulley hub (5), fan blades (4), lock washers and screws (2). Tighten screws to 12 to 15 pounds torque.

NOTE: Clearance from outside edge of fan blade to radiator cap should be 7/8" .

4. Install generator adjusting bracket.

5. Install hoses.

6. Install adjusting bracket bolt in generator

bracket and adjust fan belt.

7. Refill radiator.

Page 62

57 COOLING SYSTEM

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

Place the thermostat in a pail of water with a thermometer and heat the water until the thermostat starts to open.

FAN BELT ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen generator adjusting bracket bolt (A) Figure 2 nut (B) and two generator support bracket bolts (D) three t o four turns.

2. Apply a torque wrench approximately 12" long and as nearly vertical as possible to the head of generator adjusting bracket bolt (C) and pull generator against fan belt.

3. With torque wrench indicating 10-1/2 foot

pounds tighten generator adjusting nut (B) securely. Remove torque wrench and tighten remaining three bolts securely.

THERMOSTATS

The temperature at which the thermostat opens is very important and it should be checked whenever the complete cooling system is being checked.

The thermometer should show from 150° to 155° F, Figure 6.

Continue he a tin g the water until the thermostat is wide open. The thermometer should show 175° F.

Discard thermostats that:

Do not open completely. Open at too low a temperature. Open at too high a temperature.

A thermostat that opens too soon will cause the engine to operate at too low a temperature and if it opens too late or is sticking, it may cause the engine to overheat.

NOTE: High temperature thermostats are also available, these start to open at 165° to 170° F. These should be used with permanent type AntiFreeze to insure maximum heater efficiency.

WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE

CAUTION: In cases of extreme overheating or freezing, check the thermostat, as excessive temperature may have caused the bellows to take a set in the expanded position.

When the coolant is cold, the high resistance in the unit causes the instrument panel gauge to read at the cold end of the dial with ignition switch turned on, Figure 4.

Page 63

COOLING SYSTEM 58

FIGURE 4

When the coolant is hot, the low resistance in the unit causes the instrument panel gauge to read at the hot side of the dial with ignition switch on, Figure 5.

FIGURE 5

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

FIGURE 6

not working properly and should be replaced. (Check ground connections of the voltage regulator as grounding is essential to the proper functioning of the regulator).

2. If both gauges read too low, either the input voltage to the C.V. regulator is below 5.0 volts or the voltage regulator is inoperative and should be replaced. Check battery voltage output before replacing regulator.

NOTE: It is not advisable to attempt any repairs or adjustments to either unit of the gauge since they are factory calibrated and attempt to repair is impractical.

The constant voltage regulator is common to both the temperature and fuel systems, that is, one regulator is used to operate both systems, Figure

METHOD OF CHECKING

1. If both gauges read too high for example, if the temperature gauge reads up scale with a co1d engine, and the gas gauge reads up scale with an empty gas tank, the constant voltage regulator is

FIGURE 7

Page 64

59 COOLING SYSTEM

The water jacket plugs used in the left side of the cylinder block are a drive fit and can be easily installed fusing tool J-2793 as illustrated in Figure

7. Use a light coat of H u d s on Perfect Seal Paste to facilitate installation and improve the sealing. The plug is started into place and then driven into the block with the installer until the shoulder of the installer contacts the block. Figure 7.

RADIATOR

REMOVAL

1. Drain radiator and disconnect hoses.

2. Remove two sheet metal screws attaching deflector shield to fender tie panel.

3. Disengage headlamp wiring from retaining clips at front of radiator.

4. Remove the four hexagon bolts attaching the radiator to "U" channel and remove radiator.

INSTALLATION

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS

EXCESSIVE ENGINE TEMPERATURE CAUSES

1. Ignition timing too late or too early.

2. Fan belt slipping.

3. Radiator or cylinder block clogged or restricted.

4. Radiator core outside surface covered by grille covers, ornaments, etc.

5. Outward air passages clogged with bugs or dirt accumulations.

6. Thermostat defective.

7. Collapsed water pump inlet hose.

8. Pump impeller loose on shaft or improper clearance of impeller in pump housing.

Reverse procedure of removal.

NOTE: Proper clearance between the fan blades and radiator core is 7/8".

Should the f an be too close, there is danger of damaging the radiator on an emergency stop. If set too far from the core, cooling efficiency will be impaired particularly at low speed.

Provision for adjusting the positions of the radiator core is by means of elongated holes at each side of the radiator mounting channel. A cap screw and a lip in each bracket fits in the elongated holes and limits the amount of adjustment.

9. Engine fan blades not set at proper pitch.

10. High engine friction resulting from: a. Insufficient internal clearance b. Internal misalignment c. Use of heavy engine oil d. Inadequate oil circulation

11. Dragging brakes or tight wheel bearing.

12. Use of certain types of anti-freeze solutions in

warm weather.

13. Slipping clutch.

Page 65

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 60

SECTION 6

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

SPECIFICATIONS

GENERATOR

Make and Model Type and Volts Control Controlled Output Poles Brushes Brush Spring Tension Bearings:

Commutator End

Drive End Armature Shaft End Play Ground Polarity Field Coil Draw

Motorizing Draw

Output Test:

Cold

Hot

Auto-Lite GGW-4802A

Shunt - 6 Volt

Vibrating type current - Voltage Regulator

45 Amperes

2 2

35 to 53 ounces with new brushes

Bronze

Ball

003" to .010"

Positive

1.4 to 1.5 amperes at 5.0 volts. Measure from

armature to field terminals.

4.1 t o 4.6 amperes at 5.0 volts. Have field grounded to frame and measure from armature terminal to a ground on the frame.

6 4 volts, 0 amperes at 870 to 970 RPM

8.0 volts, 45.0 amperes at 1925 to 2125 RPM

6 4 volts, 0 amperes at 950 to 1050 RPM

8.0 volts, 45.0 amperes at 2350 to 2550 RPM

GENERATOR REGULATOR

Make and Model Volts Ground Polarity Resistors:

R1 R2

Cutout Relay

Armature Air Gap

Contact Point Gap Contacts Close

Contacts Open Current Regulator Armature Air Gap

Operating Amperage Armature Spring

Auto-Lite VBE-6104A

Positive

34.5 to 42.0 OHMS (Marked 38) 6 5 to 8.0 OHMS (Marked 7)

Resistance of voltage winding 29.8 to 33.0 ohms

031" to .034" contacts should be open and the armature against the upper stop. Measure the

gap with the gauge as near to the hinge as pos-

sible.

015" minimum

6.3 to 6.8 Volts

4.1 to 4.8 Volts after a charge of 15 amperes

.048" t o .052" contacts should be closed with

the high limit gauge in place and open with the low limit gauge in place on the contact side and

next to the brass armature stop pin.

43-47 (at 70°)

14-1/2 turns

Page 66

61 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Voltage Regulator:

Air Gap Armature Spring Operating Voltage

STARTER MOTOR

048" to .052"

14-1/2 turns

(at 22 ampere charging rate plus or minus 1.15 volts)

Make and Model Volts Poles Brushes Brush Spring Tension

DISTRIBUTOR

Make Rotation Drive Point Gap Points Open Cam Angle Arm Spring Tension Condenser Capacity Firing Order Shaft Bearings Shaft Side Play Shaft End Play

ADVANCE—

Automatic

0° at 300 RPM

10 at 350 RPM

4.5° at 500 RPM

12° at 1325 RPM

13.5° at 1500 RPM

Auto-Lite MZ 4172

6 4 4

42 to 53 ounces

Vacuum 0° at 5-1/4" 1º at 5-3/4" 4° at 7-1/2" 6° at 8-3/4"

7.5° at 9-1/2"

Auto-Lite MZ 4167

6 4 4

42 to 53 ounces

IAT-4016

Auto-Lite

Clockwise

Oil Pump

0.20"

T.D.C.

39°

17-20 oz.

21-25 MFD

1-5-3-6-2-4

2 absorbent Bronze

.005" max.

.003" to .010"

Timing Marks

COIL

Make Model Amperage Draw:

Engine Stopped Engine Idling

SPARK PLUGS

Make Gap Thread Size

BATTERY

Make Capacity Number of Plates Per Cell

Allowable variation from curve, plus or minus 1°.

Vibration Dampner

Auto-Lite

CR-6012A

5.0 amps.

1.5-2.0 amps.

Champion H8

032"

14 M.M.

National 1W-90

90 Ampere hours at 20 hour rate

Page 67

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 62

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The starting system uses a 6 volt starter mot or and left hand inboard type Bendix drive, on cars not equipped with Hydra-Matic Drive, and a right hand outboard Bendix Drive with cars equipped with Hydra-Matic Drive. The starter motor is energized by the battery through a solenoid. Turning ignition sw itch key to the extreme right activates the solenoid.

BATTERY

The battery used i s a National, Model 1W-90, 45 plate 6 volts 90 ampere hour storage battery. Electrolyte level should be at the bottom of the square in filler cap opening. Use distilled water in the battery. Level should be checked at lubrication periods and more often in warm weather. Battery terminals should be kept clean and tight at all times.

BATTERY TEST

HYDROMETER

Under normal conditions a hydrometer reading of the specific gravity of each cell will determine the state of charge. A specific gravity of 1270 at 70° F indicates a fully charged battery. A specific gravity of

1.130 indicates a fully discharged battery. If specific gravity varies more than 25 points between cells, recharge and retest or test under load.

VOLTMETER

A battery that fails to perform properly after charging should be tested with a volt-meter. Each cell should show two volts or over under no load, and the voltage across the terminal posts should be six volts or over. If these readings cannot be obtained the battery should be replaced.

the Battery-Starter Tester, meter should show at least 4 volts at 300 amperes discharge.

If a tester is not available, a voltmeter may be connected across the battery terminals while engine is cranked with the starter motor.

Battery is serviceable if the starter cranks the engine at a good speed for 1/2 minute and the voltage does not fall below 4-½ volts. DO NOT CRANK MORE THAN 1/2 MINUTE WITHOUT ALLOWING THE STARTER MOTOR TO COOL.

A slow cranking speed or voltage lower than 4-1/2 indicates a weak cell or high resistance in the connections to the starter, and the battery cables should be checked and load test repeated.

BATTERY CABLE CHECK

1. Connect a negative voltmeter lead to th e negative battery terminal and the positive lead to the starter motor terminal. Crank the motor with the starter. Voltage should not exceed .2 volts.

2. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the battery ground post and connect the negative lead to car frame. Crank the motor with the starter. Voltage should not exceed .2 volts.

3. Connect positive voltmeter lead to car frame and

negative lead to starter motor frame. Crank the motor with the starter. Voltage should not exceed .2 volts.

4. If voltage loss is greater than above, terminal

posts, ground strap and connections, and starter solenoid should be checked for high resistance.

CRANKING VOLTAGE TEST

LOAD TEST

A load test should be made to eliminate possibility of a weak cell. Use Battery-starter tester or a standard cell tester with a heavy shunt across the terminals. With the cell tester the difference between cells should be not more than 1.5 volts, and each cell should test at least 1.5 volts. With

1. Connect the negative voltmeter lead of the

starter motor tester to the starter switch terminal and the positive lead to the engine for a ground.

2. With the ignition key off, engage the starter

motor and note reading on the voltmeter. The cranking voltage should read 5 volts or more.

Page 68

63 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CAUTION: Crank engine intermittently (not more than 30 seconds) to prevent starter motor from overheating.

3. If the voltmeter reading i s less than 5 volts, check the battery cables, and starter solenoid to determine the causes for the low reading.

STARTER SOLENOID TEST

1. Connect negative lead to "Bat" terminal of

starter solenoid switch and positive lead to the starting motor terminal of starter solenoid switch, Figure 1.

2. On inboard type Bendix, remove lock spring from end of Bendix drive, and remove spring and retainers.

3. Remove two countersunk screws attaching drive

end head and remove head.

4. Remove commutator cover band and remove

brushes from holders.

5. Remove commutator end head and armature.

ASSEMBLY

1. Replace armature in frame and install drive end

head and attaching screws.

2. Install commutator end head and through bolts

and pry up brush springs and insert brushes in holders and replace band cover.

3. Replace Bendix sleeve, pinion, spring retainer,

spring, stop nut, pin and lock ring.

4. On Hydra-Matic Drive equipped cars, install

Bendix Drive Housing and through bolts.

INSTALLATION

FIGURE 1

2. Close the solenoid electrically to crank the engine; if the reading is more than 0.2 volts, replace the solenoid switch.

STARTER REMOVAL

1. Disconnect cable at battery negative terminal

and remove cable at starter motor post.

2. Remove the two starter mounting stud nuts and

remove the starter motor assembly.

DISASSEMBLY

1. On cars equipped with the outboard type starter,

remove the two through bolts attaching the Bendix housing to starter frame and remove the Bendix housing, drive out pin attaching adapter to shaft and remove adapter, sleeve and pinion.

Reverse procedure of removal.

GENERATOR

Generator output is controlled by a three unit vibrating type current voltage regulator.

The voltage regulator holds the generator output at 45 amperes or below, depending on the load requirements.

A signal system incorporated in the regulator operates the signal light on the dash. The signal lights when the ignition switch is turned on and remains lighted until the generator starts to charge the battery.

The electrical system is positive grounded and whenever a generator is installed or reinstalled on the engine it should be polarized with the battery to prevent burning of regulator contacts points and damage to the electrical units.

To polarize the generator, ground the field terminal to the frame and touch the armature lead briefly to negative terminal of the battery.

Page 69

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 64

Generator brushes may be replaced without disassembling generator. Brushes should be replaced if they are oil soaked or worn to less than 1/2 of their original length.

1. Remove cover band and disconnect brush leads.

2. Lift brush arms, remove old brushes, install new brushes in holders and connect brush leads.

3. Cut a strip of 00 sandpaper the exact Width of the commutator, slide sandpaper under brush with sanded side against brush.

4. Pull the sandpaper so that brush is forced against holder. Once or twice is sufficient.

NOTE: Blow sand and carbon dust out of generator.

5. Run generator under load to obtain perfect brush seating and re-install cover band.

GENERATOR MOTORIZING DRAW

the regulator "B" terminal and the positive lead

to the wire disconnected from the regulator, Figure 2.

2. Install the negative voltmeter lead to the generator "A" terminal and the positive volt meter lead to the battery negative terminal.

FIGURE 2

3. Connect a jumper between the generator "F" terminal and a ground.

After generator is assembled and brushes properly fitted, the motorizing draw should be checked to assure proper assembly and alignment.

1. Connect an ammeter and battery in series with the armature terminal and frame.

2. Ground the field terminal to the frame.

3. Connect a variable resistor in series with the battery and generator.

4. Connect a voltmeter from the armature to the frame.

5. Generator should operate as a motor with the armature turning slowly.

6. Adjust voltage to 5 volts and read ammeter.

7. Motorizing draw should be 4.1 to 4.6 amperes. If motorizing draw is higher, or armature does not turn, worn bearings, incorrect bearing alignment, short circuits, or improper assembly is indicated.

GENERATOR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE

1. Disconnect battery lead to voltage regulator "B" terminal; connect the ammeter negative lead to

4. Run the engine until am meter shows 20 amperes. The voltmeter should not read over .9 (tenths) or less.

5. If the resistance is more than .9, make the following checks with the ammeter connected as in paragraph 1.

A. Remove the positive voltmeter lead from the battery and connect it to the "A" terminal at the voltage regulator. Ammeter should show less than .1 (tenth). B. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the regulator "A" terminal and the voltmeter positive lead to the regulator "B" terminal. Ammeter should not show more than .3 (tenths). C. Next, connect the voltmeter positive lead to the battery negative terminal, negative lead to "B" terminal on regulator. Ammeter should not show more than .5 (tenths). D. Connect the voltmeter positive leads to engine ground, negative to base of regulator. Ammeter should show .2 (tenths) or less.

Page 70

65 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CIRCUIT BREAKER CHECK

To determine whether the circuit breaker points are closing at the proper generator voltage and also whether they will open upon deceleration by amperage from the battery proceed as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery wire at the voltage

regulator "B" terminal and connect the ammeter between the voltage regulator "B" terminal and the wire disconnected, Figure 3.

FIGURE 3

2. Connect voltmeter positive lead to base of

regulator and negative voltmeter lead to the generator "A" terminal.

3. Set carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw so

engine will idle at approximately 400 R.P.M.

4. Increase engine R.P.M. by carefully rotating

the accelerator bell-crank while watching the voltmeter gauge. When the voltmeter reads at any point between 6.3 to 6.8 volts the circuit breaker points should close and the ammeter will now show that the generator is charging.

5. Next, slowly reduce the engine speed and watch the ammeter. When the ammeter reads 4 to 6 amperes, negative side of zero, the c i r cuit breaker should open and the ammeter needle will return to zero. Perform operations 4 and 5 several times until you are sure your readings are correct.

6. Proper adjustments can be made by bending the spring hanger on the circuit breaker.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR CHECK

1. Disconnect the battery wire at the voltage regula-

tor "B" terminal and connect the test ammeter between the voltage regulator "B" terminal and

the wire disconnected, Figure 4.

2. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the regulator base and the negative lead to the regulator "B" terminal.

FIGURE 4

3. Run engine approximately 2000 R.P.M.

4. Vary resistance until ammeter reads 19 amperes

and then check the vo1t meter reading which should be 7.25 volts. (Hot, cover in place.)

NOTE: If car is out of warranty the voltage regulator can be set by bending the spring hanger to get this necessary reading. The unit must be first checked with the voltage regulator cap in place as generally it will change the reading from .1 to .2 of a volt and must be compensated for in making this adjustment.

5. Stop engine, disconnect battery negative terminal

and then proceed to remove the tester leads from the voltage regulator and install the wires back onto the " B" terminal of the regulator.

6. Install the regulator cover.

CURRENT REGULATOR CHECK

1. Disconnect the battery wire terminal "B" and

connect the test ammeter between the v o 1 t age regulator "B" terminal and the wire disconnected, Figure 5.

2. Connect a starter battery tester directly across

the battery and set load to 45 amperes or use the equivalent in sealed beam lamps.

3. Run engine to approximately 2000 R.P.M.;

amperage reading should be 36 amperes. If it is not within a tolerance of one to two amperes

Page 71

FIGURE 5

of this reading, the regulator should be removed and taken to an authorized Auto-Lite dealer for replacement.

NOTE: If car is out of warranty, remove the cover and adjust the current regulator spring hanger to the necessary 36 ampere output.

To prevent operation of the voltage regulator unit while making this adjustment place a jumper across the voltage regulator points. For final checking, the regulator cover must be in place on regulator.

CAUTION: Momentarily touch the negative battery cable to battery negative post to determine that there is no sparking between the battery negative post and cable terminal, then connect negative cable.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 66

proper ignition timing in relation to engine speed. The vacuum advance control provides additional spark advance over the centrifugal advance through the engine vacuum. When the engine is running under light load and engine vacuum is high, the breaker plate is rotated to the maximum advanced positions. However, under heavy load conditions, as when the throttle is opened for additional acceleration or hill climbing, the engine vacuum is low, the breaker plate is rotated to the retarded position to prevent detonation or pinging. Correct spark setting is obtained when the number one cylinder is at top dead center on compression stroke, rotor facing No. 1 terminal of distributor cap, distributor set in mid-position in the quadrant, and contact points just opening.

BREAKER POINT ADJUSTMENT

Breaker points may be adjusted with distributor

installed in car as follows:

1. Remove distributor cap and rotor.

2. Crank engine until the fibre block on the contact

arm rest on the highest point of the cam lobe.

3. Loosen the contact support lock screw (B) Figure

6, and turn the eccentric adjusting screw (D) until the correct gap is obtained. Distributor point gap is .020".

4. Tighten contact support lock screw and recheck

point gap. If necessary bend stationary contact to secure correct alignment.

REGULATOR CONTACT POINTS In normal use the contact points on all three

regulator units will become grayed. If the contacts are burned, dirty, or rough, the points should be filed just enough to secure a smooth surface. File parallel with and lengthwise to the armature. Clean the points with a piece of linen or lintless bond tape dipped in carbon tetrachloride and follow with dry tape. Use clean tape for each set of contacts.

DISTRIBUTOR

The distributor rotates in a clockwise direction. The distributor shaft has an offset tongue end which fits into a slot at the end of the oil pump shaft gear. Incorporated in the distributor is an automatic centrifugal advance and vacuum advance control. The automatic centrifugal advance provides the

Page 72

67 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

BREAKER POINT RENEWAL

1. Remove distributor cap and rotor.

2. Remove hairpin clip at (F), Figure 6, screws (0) attaching vacuum control unit to distributor housing and remove vacuum control unit.

3. Remove the two screws at (C) and the two nuts, washers and insulators at (H).

4. Disconnect breaker point wires at (E) and (Id) and remove complete contact support plate and contacts with condenser attached for bench disassembly.

5. Re move screw and clip (A) attaching breaker arm spring and remove breaker arm spring.

6. Remove lock screw (B) attaching stationary contact and remove the contact.

7. Install a new breaker arm and attach primary and condenser lead wires to breaker spring clip and install clip and screw (A).

8. Install a new stationary contact but do not tighten lock screw; connect wires at (E) and (H) and install condenser.

clip. Condenser mounting screw must make tight ground to breaker plate. Ground wire from breaker plate to subplate must be securely connected. Check condenser with suitable equipment and if capacity is not within range of .21 to .25 MFD, replace with new parts.

DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL

1. Remove wires from distributor cap and remove cap.

2. Disconnect vacuum line and the distributor primary wire.

3. Re move the lock plate and the hold down

screw attaching distributor quadrant to engine

and remove distributor from engine.

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove rotor.

NOTE: R e m o v e stationary contact support with

condenser, stationary contact and breaker arm as an assembly. See operations 2 through 4, under "Breaker Point Renewal".

2. Remove oil wick from cam, remove hair pin retainer from oil well and pull cam off shaft.

9. Install complete contact support plate and stationary contact as an assembly and install screws (C) and terminal nuts (H).

10. Check alignment of contact points. Bend the stationary contact arm if necessary to secure proper alignment and contact. DO NOT bend breaker arm.

11. Tighten screw (D) and adjust breaker point gap.

12. Check breaker arm spring tension. Hook a spring scale to the arm at the contact and pull at a right angle to the contact surface. T e n s i on should be 17 to 20 ounces just as the contact separate.

13. Adjust spring tension by loosening screw at (A), attaching breaker arm spring to plate, and move end of spring in or out of clip as necessary.

CONDENSER

Check condenser lead to see that it is not frayed or broken and is connected securely to breaker arm

3. Remove centrifugal weights and springs, using care to prevent distortion of springs.

4. Drive out pin from distributor shaft collar and remove shaft through top of distributor.

ASSEMBLY

1. If clearance between shaft and bushings is greater than .005", install new shaft and bushings. Soak bushing in engine oil for 15 minutes before installing shaft.

2. Install distributor shaft, thrust washers, collar and pin. Peen over pin.

3. Check distributor shaft end play for minimum of .010" and install centrifugal weights and springs.

4. Install cam, hairpin retainer, and oil wick. Apply a drop of engine oil to centrifugal weight pivots and cam slots.

Page 73

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 68

5. Pack breaker plate bearing 1/2 full of (high melting point) grease and install breaker plate, bearing retainers and breaker plate screws. Install breaker points and condenser on breaker plate before installing plate. Install plate and distributor cap clips and screws and install primary lead screw. (Do not allow wire from breaker arm to primary terminal to ground on breaker plate.)

6. Attach primary and condenser leads to clip (A) Figure 6, on breaker arm spring and check spring tension. Adjust point gap.

7. Install vacuum control unit.

NOTE: Make sure ground wire (E), is securely attached to upper and lower sections of breaker plate and that condenser lead and mounting are tight.

8. Coat cam lobes lightly with water pump grease and soak the oil wick with engine oil. Place a drop of light engine oil on the breaker arm pivot and install rotor.

2. Set distributor rotor to point to No. 1 contact in the distributor cap, Figure 8, and insert and engage distributor shaft in slot in oil pump gear.

3. Install lock plate and hold down screw attaching distributor quadrant to engine. Set distributor midway on the quadrant an d tighten screw.

4. Replace distributor cap, secondary wire and spark plug wires.

5. Place three to five drops of engine oil in shaft oiler and adjust timing.

For distributor testing and ignition timing, see Engine Tune-Up section.

SPARK PLUGS

Champion H-8 plugs are used. Gap should be .032". Check gap with a wire feeler gauge and adjust by bending the ground (side) electrode.

When replacing spark plugs always use new gaskets. Seat the plug finger tight an d use a torque wrench to tighten to 25-30 ft. lbs.

COIL

INSTALLATION

1. Place a chalk mark on the long line before No. 1-U-D-C on the vibration dampener, Figure 7.

FIGURE 7

If a faulty coil is suspected, the coil should be tested with a test light or approved coil testing equipment.

A quick test with the coil on the car can be made by removing the high-tension wire from the center of the distributor cap and hold end of wire 1/4" from cylinder head and while cranking engine if a spark occurs regularly the coil can be considered satisfactory.

HEAD LAMPS

The headlamps are the "SEALED BEAM" type, designed so that the bulb, reflector, lens, and the gasket are assembled in one securely sealed unit making them dust a n d moisture free.

When the filament burns out or the lens break, the entire unit is discarded and a new one installed, thereby assuring maximum lighting efficiency. The Sealed Beam units are interchangeable right and left.

Page 74

69 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Page 75

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 70

Page 76

71 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

SEALED BEAM UNIT

REPLACEMENT

1. Remove headlamp lens rim by taking out the screw at bottom of rim.

FIGURE 9

2. Loosen, but do not remove, the three screws (B) and (D), Figure 9, holding the retainer. Do not disturb the aiming screws (A) and (C) at the top and left side of the unit.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS & FUSES

The main circuit breaker is incorporated in the car headlight switch and is connected to an auxiliary circuit breaker by a jumper wire.

The auxiliary circuit breaker is located on the steering column brace under the dash panel.

NOTE: When accessory items such as clocks or cigar lighters are installed, they must be connected as shown in the wiring diagram.

Fuses are used for the protection of optional equipment as follows:

Electric Clock - Three ampere fuse in a fuse case at

back of clock.

Weather Control - Fourteen ampere fuse in a fuse

case on left side of weather control housing.

Radio - Fourteen ampere fuse incorporated in the

radio "A" lead wire.

FIGURE 10

3. Remove retainer by rotating counter clockwise, allowing the Sealed Beam Unit to be removed.

4. Remove the reflector plug from the unit as shown in Figure 10.

5. Install new unit by reversing above operation.

Direction Indicator - Ten ampere fuse attached to

the flasher unit lead wire.

Overdrive Circuit - Thirty ampere fuse on Over-

drive relay.

HORN

The horn is operated by a magnetic type motor which consists of a field, armature and a set of breaker points which interrupt the flow of current in the coil.

The armature is securely attached to the diaphragm. Interruption of the current in the coil causes the

diaphragm to vibrate which produces the sound.

The twin horns are constructed in such a manner as to produce different tone frequencies and the frequencies of each horn re synchronized to produce a harmonious tone when the horns are sounded together.

Page 77

SECTION 7

CLUTCH

CLUTCH 72

SPECIFICATIONS

Type Clutch Facings Facing Inside Diameter Facing Outside Diameter Facing Thickness Facings Required Pressure Springs Pressure Spring CompresIon Height. Release Levers Clutch Pedal Lash Clutch Release Bearing

Woven Molded Asbestos

3/4" to 1-1/4"

Dry

6-1/8" 9-1/8"

.125"

1-1/2"

Ball

CONSTRUCTION

The clutch for models 1C and 2C is a single dry disc type. No adjustment for wear is provided in the clutch assembly. The adjustment to compensate for lining wear is provided by the clutch pedal linkage. Individual clutch release lever adjustments are made when the clutch is assembled but should never be disturbed except after disassembly for replacement of worn parts. A ball type clutch release bearing, pre-lubricated during manufacturing, is utilized and needs no additional lubrication. A steel clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel and contains the pressure plate, clutch pressure springs , clutch release levers and clutch drive plate.

CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTMENT

Full clutch disengagement must be provided to prevent gear clashing when shifting and to prevent the clutch pedal from riding against the floor boards. The clutch pedal clearance should be from 3/4" t o 1-1/4", Figure

FIGURE 1

To adjust the clutch pedal to maintain proper clearance proceed as follows:

1. Loosen lock nut (3) Figure 1 on clutch adjusting link (2).

2. Back off o r tighten adjusting nut (4) to in crease or decrease the clearance as required.

OPERATION

The clutch plate has molded woven asbestos facings riveted t o both sides. Six dampening springs absorb shocks and cushions torque loads.

Pressure on operation of the clutch pedal moves the release bearing and collar assembly toward the release levers (5) which are pivoted on pins (8) in the eye bolts (9), adjustable t o control release lever heights. Pivot pins float in the eye bolt bores to permit release lever movement. The outer ends of t he release levers engage the pressure plate lugs through fulcrums (7) providing knife edged contacts between the levers and lugs, Figure

FIGURE 2

3. Lock the adjusting nut (4) with lock nut (3).

Page 78

73 CLUTCH

Page 79

CLUTCH 74

1. Flywheel

2. Driven disc plate assembly

3. Pressure plate

4. Clutch engaging spring

5. Release lever

6. Release bearing and collar

FIGURE 6

LEGEND

7. Release lever retainer

8. Release lever eyebolt pin

9. Release lever eyebolt

10. Release lever anti-rattle spring

11. Clutch cover

12. Release lever eyebolt nut

Page 80

75 CLUTCH

Page 81

CLUTCH REMOVAL FROM CAR

The clutch assemblies of models 1C and 2C can be removed from the car without dismounting the clutch bell housing from the engine. The floor panel is welded in position and cannot be removed. Therefore, all clutch work must be done from beneath the car. To remove the clutch assembly from the car, proceed as follows:

1. Raise car and place jack stands under front suspension lower support arms.

2. Disconnect the propeller shaft companion flange and remove the shaft.

3. Disconnect the speedometer cable.

4. Disconnect the shift selector levers from the transmission.

NOTE: Electrical wiring must be disconnected

from the control switch, solenoid and governor and the wiring harness released from the clips on transmissions equipped with overdrive.

5. Remove the two screws (27) attaching the clutch cross shaft support assembly (26) to the transmission and remove the support, Figure 6.

6. Place transmission floor jack under the transmission.

CLUTCH 76

FIGURE 7

10. Remove the cotter pin (15), pivot pin (13) and pivot pin spring (14) from the clutch bell housing and throwout lever pivot, Figure 7. Remove the throw-out lever and the clutch release bearing assemblies from the bell housing.

11. Punch mark the clutch cover, pressure plate lug and flywheel for correct positioning during reassembly.

12. Remove the six cap screws attaching the clutch assembly to the flywheel and carefully remove the assembly.

NOTE: When removing the clutch assembly, loosen each cap screw only a few turns at a time until the spring tension is relieved. Otherwise distortion of the clutch cover might result leading to a chattering clutch condition when reassembled.

7. Disconnect the adjusting rod (2) from the outer end of the clutch throw-out lever (5).

8. Remove the three attaching screws from the throwout lever boot (22) and remove retainer and boot off the lever.

9. Remove the four cap screws attaching the transmission to the clutch bell housing. Slide the transmission toward the rear of the car until the transmission main shaft clears the bell housing and lower carefully to the floor.

CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY

The clutch pressure plate and cover assembly is always under spring tension. Exercise c are when disassembling the unit to avoid injury or damage to parts.

To disassemble clutch proceed as outlined below:

1. Mount the clutch assembly on the clutch fixture or on a press. Place a wood block on the cover in position where it does not interfere with the three eyebolt nuts Figure 8.

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77 CLUTCH

FIGURE 8

2. Tighten the clutch fixture nut until the pressure springs are compressed sufficiently to relieve the pressure on the release levers and remove the three eyebolt nuts Figure 8.

3. Loosen the clutch fixture nut carefully until the spring tension is relieved.

6. Lift the eyebolt and release lever assembly out of the pressure plate socket.

FIGURE 10

INSPECTION

CLUTCH SPRINGS

Clutch springs must be thoroughly inspected for cracks, burn s and for proper tension at a give n length. Use KMO-607 Valve and Clutch Spring Tester. 195 pounds pressure plus or minus 6 pounds should be required to compress the spring to a height of 1-1/2".

FIGURE 9

1. Lift off the clutch cover and remove the pressure springs, Figure 9.

2. Grasp the release lever and eyebolt between the thumb and fingers holding them close together. See Figure 10. With the eyebolt held in the pressure plate socket, lift the fulcrum over the end of the lever

DRIVE PLATE

Repairs to the drive plate are not recommended except replacement of the facings. Carefully check for wear in the splines of the plate hub and for looseness of the dampening springs. Excessive wear of the splines or loose dampening springs may cause excessive back lash and noise.

When replacing worn facings, never punch the old rivets out as this might result in p late distortion. Use a 3/16" drill and cut away the rolled portion of the rive t and remove.

Rivet the new facings to the plate being certain they are held securely in position. Loose or uneven facings may cause the clutch to drag.

Page 83

CLUTCH 78

PRESSURE PLATE

The pressure plate must be true and free of scoring or cracks to provide smooth clutch application. Check for evidence of burning and overheating.

Place on a surface plate and check with feeler gauges to detect distortion. The maximum distortion should be no greater than .004" to .006".

Inspect the pressure plate lugs for wear at the fulcrum contacts. If excessive wear is noted the pressure plate must be replaced.

CLUTCH COVER

Care must be exercised during removal and installation of the clutch assembly. The clutch assembly is under spring tension and the six mounting screws attaching the cover to the flywheel must be loosened or tightened evenly to prevent cover distortion. If severe damage or distortion is noted replace the cover.

NOTE: The mounting screws are of a special hardened steel and in no case should substitutions be made.

FLYWHEEL AND PILOT BUSHING

After the clutch assembly has been removed from the flywheel carefully inspect the surface of the flywheel for any roughness. Check the tightness of the flywheel stud nuts. Use a torque wrench and tighten to 40-45 foot pounds torque.

Check the crankshaft pilot bushings for looseness in the crankshaft bore and for scoring or excessive wear. If the bushing is badly worn it can be re moved by using a 11/16" - 16 tap. As the tap is turned in, threads will be cut in the bushing. After the tap has bottomed ins the crankshaft bore, the bushing will be forced out.

Install the new bushing in the crankshaft using tool J-5442.

ASSEMBLY OF CLUTCH

The release lever fulcrums must be lubricated with a small amount of lubriplate grease before

assembly. Below are the assembly steps:

1. Mount the p r e s sure plate on the clutch fixture, Figure 9.

2. Assemble the release lever pin in the eyebolt and release lever.

3. Hold the eyebolt and release lever upper ends as closely together as possible in one hand; then enter the lower end of the e ye bolt in the pressure plate bore and install the fulcrum, Figure 10.

4. Use the same procedure for installing the other two release lever assemblies.

5. Check to see that the anti-rattle springs are in place in the cover. Figure 9.

6. Place the six p re s sure springs one on each plate boss and install the cover over the springs. Be certain the springs seat in the cover recesses and the punch marks on the pressure plate and cover are aligned.

7. Tighten the eyebolt nuts until they are flush with the upper ends of the eyebolts.

8. Release the clutch assembly and remove from the clutch fixture.

CLUTCH LEVER ADJUSTMENT

1. Place the clutch Finger Adjusting Gauge J-4708, Figure 11 on a fly w he e 1 in the same position as the driven disc.

2. Place the clutch assembly on the flywheel and align the machined surfaces of the gauge directly under the pressure plate levers. Tighten the cover mounting s c re w s uniformly a few turns at a time until the cover is drawn down against the flywheel.

3. Depress each lever several times before checking the lever height to seat the levers in their operating positions.

Page 84

79 CLUTCH

FIGURE 11

4. Place the Lever Height Gauge J-5490-1 on the Gauge plate hub with the height gauge offset down, Figure 12.

FIGURE 13

FIGURE 12

5. Adjust the release levers until they just contact the lower surface of the lever height gauge. Tightening the eyebolt nuts will raise the levers and loosening them will lower the levers. Operate the levers several times and recheck heights.

6. After rechecking the lever heights to verify their setting stake the eyebolt nuts with a dull punch and a hammer, Figure 13.

7. Remove the clutch assembly from the fixture. Always handle the Plate Gauge with care to prevent damage.

CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING

The clutch release mechanism Figure 6 consists of the clutch throw-out lever (5) pivot (16) and linkage. The inner end of the throw-out lever contacts the flange of the throw-out collar. The clutch throw-out or release bearing fits over the inner end of the collar assembly and contacts the release levers when the clutch pedal is partially depressed, Figure 14.

FIGURE 14

The clutch release bearing is lubricated and s e ale d during manufacture. It should never be washed in gasoline or solvents. Solvents entering the bearing will dissolve the lubricant. Check the bearing for roughness and wear. If found defective press the old bearing off the clutch collar and replace with a new bearing.

Page 85

INSTALLING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY IN CAR

To install the clutch assembly on engine, proceed as outlined below:

1. Place clutch assembly in position on flywheel with driving plate between flywheel and pressure plate. Driving plate must be in s fa ffe d with side stamped ((Flywheel side" toward flywheel.

2. Center the clutch disc on the flywheel using aligning arbor J-5442 or a transmission main drive gear shaft, Figure 15.

CLUTCH 80

FIGURE 16

6. Hold the throwout lever and release bearing assembly in one hand and install the pivot spring on the throwout lever pivot pin. Insert the end of the pin through the bores in the pivot and the bell housing. Insert a cotter pin through the pivot pin and clinch securely.

FIGURE 15

The clutch disc must be centered to permit entering the transmission main shaft in the driven plate hub splines.

3. Align the punch marks placed, on the clutch cover and pressure plate hub with the one on the flywheel (A - Figure 15). Start the six cap screws attaching the clutch assembly to the flywheel T i g h t e n the cap screws evenly a few turns at a time until the assembly is drawn up tight on the flywheel. Ti g h t e n the mounting screws to 20-25 foot pounds torque.

4. Install the clutch throwout lever pivot (16) on the lever (5) and secure in position with the attaching spring (17) Figures 6 and 14.

5. Hold the clutch release bearing assembly in one hand with the bearing toward the flywheel. Insert the throw out lever through the bell hou sing opening. The spring at the inner slotted end of the throwout lever will hold the thrust bearing assembly in place, (Figures 16 and 17).

FIGURE 17

7. Raise the transmission, align the main shaft and slide the transmission forward against the bell housing.

8. Install and tighten the four transmission to bell housing attaching screws and tighten to 35-40 pounds torque.

9. Install throwout lever boot (23) and retainer (22), Figure 6.

10. Connect transmission shift lever clutch control linkage speedometer cable and propeller shaft.

11. Check for correct clutch pedal clearance

(See Clutch Pedal Adjustment - Page 72).

Page 86

81 TRANSMISSION

Page 87

TRANSMISSION 82

1. Synchronizer rings

2. Synchronizer springs

3. Synchronizer hub

4. Synchronizer shift plates

5. Synchronizer sleeve

6. Cover

7. Cover gasket

8. Main shaft snap ring

9. Synchronizer assembly

10. Second speed gear and bushing

11. Low and reverse gear

12. Mainshaft front rollers

13. Mainshaft

14. C.S. thrust washer (front)

15. C.S. gear cluster

16. C.S. rear thrust washer (inner)

17. C.S. rear thrust washer (outer)

18. C.S. bearing washer

FIGURE 2

LEGEND

19. C.S. gear spacer

20. C.S. bearing rollers

21. Counter shaft

22. Reverse idler gear

23. Reverse idler gear bushing

24. Reverse idler gear shaft

25. Idler and C.S. lock plate

26. Drive gear bearing retainer

27. Drive gear snap ring

28. Bearing snap ring

29. Drive gear bearing

30. Oil retaining washer

31. Drive gear

32. Bearing retainer gasket

33. Transmission case

34. Mainshaft bearing (rear)

35. Mainshaft bearing snap ring

36. Bearing retainer gasket

37. Speedometer gear snap ring (front)

38. Speedometer gear

39. Speedometer gear lock key

40. Speedometer gear snap ring (rear)

41. Mainshaft bearing retainer

42. Mainshaft oil seal

43. Mainshaft bushing

44. Shift fork (second and high)

45. Taper pin

46. Shift fork (low and reverse)

47. Shift shaft (second and high)

48. Shift shaft interlock sleeve

49. Shift shaft (low and reverse)

50. Shift rail lock ball

51. Shift rail lock ball spring

52. Shift shaft oil seal

53. Shift lever interlock pin

54. Control lever outer clevis pin

55. Second and high control lever (outer)

56. Low and reverse control lever (outer)

Page 88

83 TRANSMISSION

SECTION 8

TRANSMISSION

SPECIFICATIONS

GEAR RATIOS

Low Second High Reverse

SNAP RING THICKNESS

Main Drive Gear Bearing .073" and .076" Main Drive Gear .087", .090", .093", .096" and .103" Mainshaft Bearing Rear .073" and .076" Mainshaft Rear Bearing .087", .090", .093" and .096"

INTERLOCK SLEEVES

MARKING

"A"

"B" "C"

"D"

No Marking

LENGTH

2.605:1

1.630:1

1.000:1

3.536:1

1.295"

1.291"

1.287"

1.303"

1.299"

the rear bearing retainer.

The main-shaft second speed gear and the reverse idler gear operate on their shafts through precision fitted, bronze alloy bushings. The countershaft gear cluster operates on the stationary countershaft through needle rollers at each end held in position by a spacer tube and washers. Countershaft gear cluster end thrust is taken by a single stationary, bronze faced thrust washer at the front and by a rotating bronze washer and a stationary steel washer at the rear.

Separate shift shafts with integral cams on the inside and actuating levers on the outside, operate the low and reverse and second and high gears through forks and an interlock arrangement common to both shafts. Separate rubber mounted rods connect the outer shift shaft levers to the levers on the transmission control

The transmission is mounted at the front on the clutch housing with four bolts passing through lugs on the transmission case from the rear into the clutch housing. This simplifies transmission removal and replacement since the clutch housing and floor cover do not have to be disturbed.

LUBRICATION

Transmission - 1-1/2 Pts. S.A.E. - 90 Summer S.A.E. - 80 Winter

CONSTRUCTION

The transmission is of the all-helical gear type with synchro-mesh second and high gears.

The rear of the main drive gear is supported by a ball bearing mounted in the transmission case and the front end pilots in a bronze bushing. The front end of the main-shaft operates in rollers carried in the main drive gear and the rear end of the main-shaft is supported by a ball bearing mounted in the case. Oil retention is by means of a hydraulic leather oil seal in

The main drive gear be a r i n g retainer positions the transmission in a machined locating hole in the clutch housing.

Breathing or venting is through a small opening in the front of the cover and two holes in the rear of the gasket, which is held away from the cover at the center by a depression stamped in the cover.

REMOVAL

1. Drain transmission lubricant.

2. Disconnect the universal joint at the rear axle companion flange, push propeller shaft f o r ward to release bearing cups from seats in companion flange, then pull propeller shaft rear-ward to release the sleeve yoke from the

Page 89

rear end of transmission and remove complete propeller shaft. Use tape around bear in g cups to retain cups and rollers in position.

3. Disconnect the low and reverse, and second and high shift rods at the transmission shift levers.

4. Disconnect speedometer cable at transmission and remove the speedometer pinion.

5. Remove the two screws attaching the clutch cross shaft support assembly to the transmission case and remove the support.

6. Using a universal socket on a 10" extenstion, remove the two top bolts attaching the transmission to clutch housing and insert two guide studs (J-2969) to guide transmission during removal.

7. Lower the transmission and clean the outside thoroughly before disassembly.

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove the four cover screws and remove cover (6) and gasket (7), Figure 2.

TRANSMISSION 84

FIGURE 3

allow shaft and gear cluster to be lowered to bottom of case for removal of the main drive gear.

The dummy shaft can be made from a piece of 11/16" diameter cold rolled steel and cut to exactly 5-7/8" long and drill a 3/16" diameter hole 1" deep in each end to provide a means of raising the cluster assembly with two small punches.

2. Remove the four bolts from the mainshaft rear bearing retainer (41) and remove retainer and gasket (36).

NOTE: The rear bearing retainer has a

reamed bushing at the rear end of the retainer and care should be used when removing the retainer.

3. Remove the snap ring (40) at the rear of the speedometer gear, remove the speedometer gear (38), key (39) and snap ring (37).

4. Remove the three bolts attaching the main drive gear bearing retainer and remove retainer (26) and gasket (32).

5. Using a brass drift and hammer Figure 3, drive countershaft rearward enough to free the lock plate in the shaft recess and remove lock plate.

6. A dummy shaft is necessary to replace the countershaft in the transmission gear cluster to

NOTE: The purpose of the dummy shaft is to retain in position the needle rollers, spacer and thrust washers when removing and installing the countershaft cluster gear.

7. Place end of dummy shaft against front end of countershaft, and with a soft hammer, drive the countershaft to the rear out of transmission case.

NOTE: Be sure the dummy shaft remains in constant contact with the countershaft during this operation; otherwise, the thrust washers and needle rollers will fall out of place.

8. Use a small pointed brush and paint a fine line across the synchronizer rings, sleeve and second and high gear to insure reassembly of these parts in their proper location, Figure 4.

9. In removing main drive gear, use a brass drift a g ain s t the rear face of the drive gear teeth (not synchronizer teeth) and carefully drive gear forward out of case.

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85 TRANSMISSION

FIGURE 4

10. Use the same brass drift on the pilot end of the mainshaft and drive mainshaft rearward to remove mainshaft bearing from rear of case.

11. Use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring., from front of mainshaft, Figure 5.

idler gear shaft out of rear of transmission case and

remove the idler gear.

FIGURE 6

14. Lift the countershaft gear cluster up and out of case Be careful dummy shaft does not slide out and spill the needle rollers, roller washers and thrust washers.

FIGURE 5

12. Hold the synchronizer assembly and the second and low gears together as a unit and move mainshaft assembly to the right of transmission case as far as possible to disengage the high and intermediate shifter fork from the synchronizer collar and the low and reverse fork from the collar and the low gear. Turn mainshaft and while holding the gears with-draw the mainshaft through the gears and out of rear of case, Figure 6.

13. With a long curved brass drift drive the reverse

Note the position of the front and rear thrust washers to insure exact replacement.

15.. Using a pin punch drive taper pins securing shift shafts up and out of case, Figure 7.

FIGURE 7

16. Remove the nuts, washers and levers (55) and (56),

Figure 2, from shift shafts (47) and (49) and remove shafts from case. The interlock balls (50), sleeve (48), spring (51) and pin (53) may also be removed.

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TRANSMISSION 86

INSPECTION

Thoroughly clean and carefully inspect all parts for wear, nicks, scores, etc., to determine if any parts need replacement. Regardless of appearance, all oil seals and gaskets should be replaced to prevent the possibility of oil leaks. To replace the mainshaft rear oil seal (42), drive old seal from rear flange and install a new seal, tapping it into bearing retainer from rear of retainer using Seal Installer Tool J-1354. The rear face of the seal projects 1/4" out of retainer when properly installed. The shift shaft oil seals (52) are replaced by driving the old seals out from inside of transmission case and driving new ones in from outside of case.

NOTE: When installing new .oil seals, it is good practice to coat the outside diameter of the seal and the inside of the housing with white lead or gasket sealer to prevent oil leaks. Leather seals must be soaked in engine oil for 24 hours before using.

The mainshaft second speed gear (10) and the reverse idler gear (22) fitted with bronze bushings must be replaced with a gear and bushing assembly if excessive wear is noted, since replacement of bushings in the field is impracticable.

thimble removed, Figure 8 and replacer J-2995-1 Figure

FIGURE 9

ASSEMBLY

SHIFT SHAFTS AND INTERLOCK

1. Install the low and reverse shift shaft (49) Figure 2, in the transmission case. Use care to avoid damage to the oil seal, align the neutral detent of the cam with the interlock boss opening in transmission case and install the taper pin (45) through shift shaft and case.

FIGURE 8

If the main drive gear ball bearing (29) or the main shaft rear bearing (34) appear rough or show excessive wear or damage, they should be replaced, using remover J-1134-H with with thimble

FIGURE 10

NOTE: It is necessary to install low and reverse shift shaft (49) first due to interference by the boss of the reverse idler gear shaft.

2. Install interlock sleeve in case and insert an interlock

ball in sleeve. Then install the sleeve spring (51) and

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87 TRANSMISSION

pin (53), Figure 10.

3. Install the second and high shift shaft (47) in case and move shaft toward outside of case as far as possible. Install the other interlock ball (50) in the sleeve compressing spring as far as possible; then slide the shift shaft toward center of case aligning neutral detent with interlock ball. Install the taper pin (45) through shift shaft and case.

4. Install shift shaft levers, short lever (56) (low and reverse) on rear shaft (49) and long lever (55) (second and high) on front shaft. Shift either lever into any gear and with one end of interlock contacting the shift shaft cam, use a feeler gauge as shown in Figure 11 and check the clearance at opposite end of interlock sleeve and cam.

2. Cover the thrust washers (14), (16), and (17) and ends of gear cluster with viscous grease and place thrust washers in position. The f r on t washer (14) has bronze face to gear and lug to top. Rear washer (16) (inner) bronze mu st be installed so the two lugs in center of washer engage cluster gear and the (outer) steel washer (17) with the lug to top.

3. With cluster gear assembly complete on the dummy shaft, carefully lower the assembly into the transmission case.

Position the assembly with the countershaft holes in

case and start countershaft through rear of case. Tap the countershaft forward and keep in constant contact with the dummy shaft to prevent rollers and washers from becoming dislodged.

Drive the countershaft forward just far enough to

enter front end in front of case since it must be removed again after checking end play.

4. Insert a feeler gauge between the two rear thrust washers to check gear cluster end play, which should be .006" to .016". If clearance is more, the thrust washers should be replaced, Figure 12.

FIGURE 11

Clearance should be .001 to .007". If not within these limits, the sleeve must be removed and replaced with one of proper length. Consult the "Specifications" page for sleeve dimensions.

COUNTERSHAFT GEAR CLUSTER

1. To assemble the countershaft gear cluster, insert the dummy shaft and needle roller spacer (19) Figure 2, in the gear cluster (15). Stand assembly on one end apply viscous grease between shaft and bore of gear cluster. Insert 20 rollers (20) and place the second roller washer (18) on top of rollers. Turn assembly end for end and perform same operation.

FIGURE 12

5. Enter the dummy shaft into front of case and tapping lightly with a soft hammer, drive the countershaft out through rear of case, being careful to keep both shafts

Page 93

butted together at all times. Then lower the gear cluster assembly with dummy shaft to bottom of case.

TRANSMISSION 88

.003" to .016". Excessive end play at this point

can only be corrected by installing new parts.

REVERSE IDLER GEAR

1. Install idler gear (22) Figure 2, in position (long hub to front), and drive in idler gear shaft (24) with slot for lock place in position for alignment with slot in the countershaf t. Do not seat shaft tightly since it may be necessary to turn it when countershaft is installed.

Idler gear end play tolerance is .003" to .010". MAINSHAFT ASSEMBLY

1. Install the mainshaft bearing on the main- shaft so that inner race of bearing bottoms against end of spiral splines and install the proper thickness span ring. These snap rings are furnished in five thicknesses. See "Specifications" Page 83.

2. Insert the mainshaft and rear bearing assembly through rear of transmission case an d install the low and reverse sliding gear (11) with the shift collar to rear of case.

3. Install the low and reverse shift fork (46) (offset to rear) and engage fork in collar of low and reverse sliding gear (11).

4. Install the second speed gear (10) and assemble the synchronizer clutch hub, shift plates, shift sleeve, springs and synchronizer rings and install the assembly on the ma in shaft with the long hub of the clutch hub to front of transmission.

NOTE: When installing synchronizer springs (2) the hooked ends of both springs must engage the same shift plate on opposite sides.

6. Install the second and high shift fork (44) in the second and high shift shaft and move mainshaft assembly to right of case, align shift fork with clutch sleeve and move mainshaft to center to engage fork in synchronizer clutch sleeve.

7. Complete the installation of mainshaft and bearing assembly b y tapping the rear bearing outer with a plastic or rawhide hammer until bearing case snap ring is flush with rear of transmission case.

MAIN DRIVE GEAR

1. Coat inside of main drive gear pocket with heavy viscous grease and assemble the bearing rollers (12) in position in the gear pocket.

2. Install the mainshaft drive gear and bearing assembly, tapping outer race of bearing lightly and evenly with a soft hammer until the snap ring in the bearing is flush with the front of case.

CAUTION: When installing the gear, be sure

bearing rollers are not dislodged before pilot end of mainshaft enters drive gear.

MAIN DRIVE GEAR BEARING RETAINER

1. Tap the main drive gear bearing face lightly with a soft hammer to make sure the bearing snap ring is fully seated on the transmission case.

Be sure the paint marks on the synchronizer parts are properly aligned.

5. Install the mainshaft snap ring, Figure 5, retaining the gears in position and check end play of the second gear by inserting a feeler gauge between the rear face of gear and the front ends of the mainshaft spiral splines. End play may be from

2. Install a new bearing retainer gasket and install the bearing retainer with three cap screws and tighten evenly.

NOTE: Be sure oil drain hole in bearing retainer

flange is aligned with oil drain back hole in transmission case.

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89 TRANSMISSION

COUNTERSHAFT

1. To raise the gear cluster and dummy shaft to align with the countershaft holes in case, insert two suitable punches through countershaft hole s in the transmission case and engage the 3/16" holes drilled in ends of dummy shaft. Raise the gear c l u s t e r assembly to alignment with the countershaft hole s in the case and while forcing the countershaft cluster against the case with one pin punch to maintain alignment remove the other pin punch and start the countershaft through rear of case.

2. Tap the countershaft forward and hold front end of dummy shaft to keep constant contact with the countershaft at all times to prevent thrust washers and needle rollers from dropping from gear cluster. Line up slot in countershaft w ith slot in idler gear shaft and install lock plate. Drive both shafts in case securely to retain lockplate.

MAINSHAFT REAR BEARING RETAINER

1. Tap the rear face of mainshaft rear bearing (34) Figure 2, outer race to be sure bearing snap ring is seated firmly against transmission case.

2. Install snap ring (37), position woodruff key (39) and slide the speedometer drive gear (38) on mainshaft and install rear snap ring (40).

3. Place rear bearing retainer (with new oil se al installed) with a new gasket (36) in position on rear of transmission; install the four attaching screws and tighten.

4. Install the transmission cover, using a new gasket.

NOTE: The two gasket vent holes go to the rear while the vent hole in cover goes to the front, install the four capscrews, lockwashers and tighten cover screws.

TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION

1. Install the two guide studs ( J-2969) in upper bolt holes of clutch housing to assist in supporting the

transmission during installation.

2. Raise the transmission assembly into position and enter guide studs in top holes of case flange.

3. Check the position of the clutch driving plate and see that it is perfectly centralized within the clutch assembly. Use 1-5442 Aligning Arbor for this operation.

4. Move the assembly forward and engage mainshaft splines in clutch plate hub. Be sure the throwout bearing and collar are properly positioned in the throwout lever.

5. Install the clutch cross shaft support assembly to the bottom of the transmission case.

6. In stall the two lower bolts, attaching transmission to clutch housing. Then remove the guide studs at top and install the two upper bolts.

7. Install speedometer drive pinion and connect speedometer drive shaft and cable.

8. Connect the second and high and low and reverse shift rods to shift shaft levers on transmission and adjust.

9. Place the universal joint needle roller cups in position on rear axle companion flange , install clamps, washers and tighten nuts 14-17 ft. albs., be sure bearing cups are properly seated under retaining lugs of companion flange.

10. Tighten drain plugs, remove filler plug and fill transmission to bottom of plug opening (1-1/2 albs) of S.A.E. 80 Winter o r S.A.E. 90 Summer gear oil. Replace and tighten filler plug.

Page 95

TRANSMISSION 90

Page 96

91 TRANSMISSION

TRANSMISSION CONTROL

(HANDY SHIFT)

CONTROL SHAFT AND LEVERS

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect low and reverse and second and high shifter rods at the control shaft levers by removing the cotter pins and flat washers.

2. Remove the control lever fulcrum pin (4), Figure 13, control lever grommet (3), silencer (2) and take out control lever (5).

3. Loosen the Allen screw (19) at the control shaft lower bracket attaching the (Handy Shift) control shaft to the steering jacket tube and slide the bracket and levers down on the tube approximately 2-1/4 inches to clear the control shaft pilot (1) at the steering jacket tube housing.

4. Remove the screw (15), lockwasher (16), and plain washer (17) attaching the control shaft lever anchor bracket (14) to the control shaft lower bracket (18).

NOTE: Do not lose the pilot compression spring (6) and flat washer (7) when removing the control tube assembly.

INSTALLATION

1. Install spring (6) and washer (7) into fulcrum bracket.

2. In stall fulcrum and shift control shaft over pilot (1).

3. Install control lever silencer (2), control lever grommet (3). Insert control lever through grommet, silencer, fulcrum bracket and in socket of pivot.

4. Insert lock pin (4) using care not to damage fulcrum bracket.

5. Place spring washer (9) low and reverse lever (10) on control shaft.

6. Install drive pin (12) onto control shaft and retain in position with drive pin retainer (11).

5. While holding the control shaft (8) remove the second and high shift lever (13), control shaft drive pin retainer (11), drive pin (12), low and reverse shift lever (10), spring washer (9) and control shaft lever anchor bracket (18) from lower end of control shaft.

6. Control shaft (8) and fulcrum bracket can now be removed by pulling the control shaft away from the jacket tube.

7. Slide anchor bracket (14), second and high lever (13) and control bracket lower (18). Install washer (17), external tooth lock washer (16) and hex head bolt (15).

NOTE: Place gear shift lever in each shift posi-

tion. Pin (11) must not bottom in groove of either lever in any gear shift position. If p i n bottoms make necessary adjustments at anchor bracket (14).

Page 97

SECTION 9

OVERDRIVE

Overdrive provides a driving ratio of engine speed to rear wheel speed that is numerically lower than direct drive. In overdrive the engine revolves 30% slower than in direct gear at the same car speed, resulting in less wear on engine parts as well as greater fuel and oil economy and smoother operation at high speeds.

SERVICING UNITS REQUIRING

REMOVAL OF OVERDRIVE

HOUSING ONLY

Repairs to the overdrive case, overdrive mainshaft, mainshaft ring gear, free wheeling cam, pinion cage assembly, stationary gear, shift rail and fork assembly, overdrive mainshaft rear bearing, overdrive mainshaft oil seal, speedometer drive gear, solenoid pawl and interlock plunger may be performed underneath the car by removing the overdrive housing without disturbing the transmission. See "Overdrive Housing Removal". However, if the transmission mainshaft, overdrive adapter, or transmission mainshaft bearing are to be replaced, it will be necessary to proceed as outlined under "Transmission and Overdrive Removal".

OVERDRIVE HOUSING REMOVAL

1. Place car on stand jacks.

2. Remove drain plugs and drain transmission and overdrive cases.

3. Disconnect governor switch wire at control switch, also two wires at solenoid.

4. Remove nuts and washers from "U" clamps attaching propeller shaft universal cross to rear axle pinion companion flange.

5. Lower rear end of propeller shaft and pull complete assembly backward out of transmission.

NOTE: Use masking tape to hold bearings to universal joint.

OVERDRIVE 92

FIGURE 1

Figure 1, and pull control shaft out as far as possible to disengage the operating cam of the shift shaft from the slot in shift rail.

NOTE: Small end of taper pin is down.

9. Remove the three bolts and lock washers and remove the mainshaft rear bearing retainer.

10. Remove the four bolts attaching the overdrive housing to transmission and overdrive adapter.

11. Remove the overdrive mainshaft rear bearing snap ring (105) and spacer washers 104, Figure 2.

12. Remove overdrive housing. (Lightly tap the end of the overdrive mainshaft with a rawhide mallet to prevent mainshaft from coming off with the overdrive housing and spilling the free wheeling rollers.)

NOTE: Removal of the overdrive housing will expose the governor gear, speedometer gear, overdrive mainshaft and ring gear free wheeling cam, pinion and cage assembly, shift rail and fork, stationary gear, stationary gear cover plate and overdrive mainshaft bearing.

6. Remove speedometer cable and speedometer driven gear.

7. Disconnect overdrive control cable at control shaft lever.

8. Drive out the overdrive control shaft tapered pin,

REMOVAL OF PARTS

FROM REAR OF ADAPTER

1. Install one bolt removed from housing to hold the adapter plate to the transmission case.

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93 OVERDRIVE

FIGURE 2

Page 99

OVERDRIVE 94

99. Retainer gasket

100. Governor drive gear

101. Speedometer drive gear

102. Woodruff key

96. Control shaft locating pin

97. Control switch gasket

98. Control switch

103. Rear bearing

104. Rear brg. retainer snap ring

105. Rear bearing spacer washer

106. Output shaft snap ring

107. Rear bearing retainer

108. Output shaft oil seal

LEGEND

FIGURE 3

83. Lockup rail "C" washer

84. Lockup rail washer cup

85. Cam retainer clip

86. Control shaft

87. Control shaft oil seal

88. Control lever

71. Cam assembly

72. Cam roller retainer springs

73. Cam roller

70. Pinion cage retainer

57. Mainshaft

58. Trans. mainshaft snap ring

74. Cam roller retainer

75. Governor switch

59. Trans. mainshaft bearing

60. Trans. mainshaft snap ring

61. Bearing oil baffle

62. O/D to trans. case gasket

91. O/D mainshaft ring gear

89. Shift rail

90. Shift rail retractor spring

76. Lock ring

77. Governor pinion

78. Sun gear pawl

63. Overdrive housing adapter

64. Sun gear plate and balk ring

65. Sun gear plate cover

92. O/D mainshaft output shaft

93. Snap ring

94. Overdrive housing gasket

95. Overdrive housing

79. Sun gear pawl oil seal

66. Cover plate snap ring

82. Shift rail sleeve spring

80. Solenoid assembly

81. Shift fork

67. Sun gear snap rings

68. Sun gear and shifting collar

69. Pinion cage assembly

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95 OVERDRIVE

FIGURE 4

2. Remove the overdrive mainshaft and ring gear assembly, Figure 4, (Catch the rollers as they drop out of the free wheeling cam roller retainer).

from the overdrive mainshaft (3); the oil collector

ring (4) is spun securely to the mainshaft to form an oil tight seal.

4. Remove the retaining clip at the end of the clutch cam, Figure 6, this will allow removal of the cam and the pinion cage assembly.

FIGURE 5

3. Removing lock ring (2), Figure 5, will permit the removal of the ring gear (1)

FIGURE 7

5. Remove the "U" clip located between the free wheeling c a m and pinion cage and separate these units, Figure 7.

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 6

6. Remove the sun gear and shift rail assembly, Figure