Page 1
Operating Manual and
Service Instructions
NEW
recumbent-
technology
2009
HPVelotechnik
August 2009
Page 2
HP
Velotechnik
General safety instructions
Intended use – 3
The first miles – 3
Legal requirements – 3
Load capacity – 4
Carrying luggage – 4
Transport in the car – 5
Do not take kids with you – 5
Trailers – 5
Added parts and accessories – 5
Fairings – 5
Replacement of parts – 6
No alteration of parts – 6
Final assembly – 6
Screws and bolts – 6
Quick Releases – 7
Adjusting your new bike
Adjusting the leg length – 9
Adjusting the seat angle – 10
Adjusting the handlebars – 13
Adjusting the suspension – 16
Handling instructions
Learning the new riding technique – 24
Wear protective clothing – 25
Use clipless pedals – 25
Slowly increase the strain – 26
Do not ride freehand – 26
Do not pull on the handlebars – 27
How to ride correctly and safely – 26
Brakes – 28
Gear system – 30
Light system – 31
Prop stand – 32
Table of contents
-
Maintenance and care
Wear and Tear – 33
Brakes – 33
Gear system – 35
Chain – 36
Chain tubes – 38
Chain roller – 40
Headset – 43
Rear suspension element – 45
Swing arm pivot – 47
Seat – 48
Water bottle cage – 49
Mudguards – 50
Wheels – 51
Cleaning and conservation – 52
Storing the bicycle – 54
Screws and bolts – 54
Tightening torques for screws – 55
Warranty – 56
Warranty pass
Warranty pass – 57
Service plan – 58
Proofs of service – 62
Revision August 2009. For latest product information, please check out our website at
www.hpvelotechnik.com. All trademarks belong to their respective owners.
HP V
ELOTECHNIK
Elisabethenstrasse 1
65830 Kriftel / Germany
Tel. ++49 (0) 61 92 - 97 99 2-0
Fax ++49 (0) 61 92 - 91 02 18
Page 3
HP
Velotechnik
thank you for buying a recumbent by HP VELOTECHNIK and con-
gratulations on the purchase of your new Spirit! With the Spirit,
a high-quality luxury bike, you will enjoy many years of exhilarating riding pleasure.
Your security and your satisfaction are our main concern. On
the following pages, this manual will inform you about important
safety issues as well as maintenance and care instructions.
Even if you have many years of experience with bicycles please
do take your time to read this manual carefully.Your recumbent
is designed with the latest bicycle technology by HP V
ELOTECHNIK
that partly needs special treatment and care.
In this manual you will find detailed instructions on how to optimize your Sprit to meet your demands and riding style as well
as your size and weight. In addition to this, we have put together a collection of information on care and maintenance as well
as special technical advice from our engineers. Important: Please
send us the attached warranty registration form for your extended warranty (see page 56.)
This guide helps you to keep your Spirit in perfect condition so
you will always experience maximum fun, comfort and safety.
Enjoy yourselves and have a great ride!
Paul J.W. Hollants, Dipl.-Ing. Daniel Pulvermüller
and the HP V
ELOTECHNIK team
1
Introduction
Dear customer,
Page 4
HP
Velotechnik
The manuals of component manufacturers
such as the brake manufacturer, the gear system manufacturer, and the pedal manufacturer
also belong to this manual.They give detailed
information on operating and maintaining
these specific parts. Please read the manuals of
the part manufacturers as carefully as this
manual. Please provide this manual to any other user of your recumbent before using it.
The maintenance and adjustment of this recumbent partly requires special tools and
skills. Do only works within your limits and,
for the purpose of your own safety, do not go
beyond. Should you be uncertain at any point,
get in contact with your local dealer.
The instructions in this manual apply only to a
completely assembled Spirit with standard
parts from the series production of HP
VELOTECHNIK.
On special demand HP V
ELOTECHNIK delivers
frame kits to put a specialist dealer in a position to assemble a tricycle individually. In this
case the manuals on the operation and maintenance of the parts only represent a guideline,
please read every manual of every part manufacturer separately.The specialist dealer is responsible for the expert assembly, please contact him for detailed information! A tricycle
that has been assembled from a frame kit must
always be tested and approved by a qualified
bicycle mechanic before your first ride.
Introduction
2
Caution! The texts in the grey boxes are
particularly important for your safety.Texts
that begin with „Danger!“ mark an immediate danger for your life and your health.
Please read them carefully.
Page 5
General safety instructions
HP
Velotechnik
3
Legal requirements
When you ride your bike on public roads it
must comply with national legislation and guidelines.These will vary from country to country. In general, there are minimum standards
for brakes, reflectors and lighting systems, as
well as usually a general duty to ensure that
your vehicle is in roadworthy safe condition.
There will also be a duty to ride in a safe and
responsible manner. If you ride your HP
V
ELOTECHNIK bike in traffic you should be sure
to observe all the applicable laws and regulations.
In most countries, including Germany and the
UK, two independent braking systems are required. Do not ride with only one brake working!
Please contact your local dealer to find out about your legal obligations.
As an addition, we recommend to mount a flag
on a pole for better visibility in traffic.
The safety equipment on your bike must be
checked before every ride and maintained in
proper condition.
General safety instructions
Intended use
Your Spirit is a bicycle for the use on streets
and surfaced roads.
This bicycle is not designed for the use in racing and off-road riding, for jumping or acrobatics, and you must not ride across curbs, stairs,
etc.
Damage through inappropriate use, assembly
errors, accidents or similar activities and wilful
damage results in the loss of any warranty.
The intended use also includes the precise observation of the prescribed usage and maintenance regulations and instructions.
The first miles
The first 300 km (186 miles) are an important
for breaking in the tricycle. During the first use
of a new tricycle the screws may settle and
become loose. Cables and spokes may stretch.
Bearings may show play. Please be very attentive during that period.
After 300 km or after two months at the latest you will have to take your bicycle to a bicycle mechanic for the first service. Please record this first service and the works performed in the warranty pass on page 57.The first
service is the prerequisite for further use of
the bicycle and for your warranty claims.
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HP
Velotechnik
4
Load capacity
The maximum load (rider + luggage) is 130 kgs
(286 lbs.).The maximum total weight (bicycle
+ rider + luggage) is 150 kgs (330 lbs.).The lower limit is valid. It is important to adjust the
spring stiffness of the suspension according to
the load, see the chapter about adjusting the
suspension in this manual, 16.
With an attached trailer, the maximum total
weight must not be higher than 150 kg
(330 lbs)
Carrying luggage
Luggage transport is only allowed with the integrated seat rack, with a bicycle bag at the
upper seat stay and with bags at the optional
lowrider rack.You can put smaller items like a
repair kit, your mobile phone or your wallet in
the integrated bags at the lower end of the
back rest.
Maximum load:
● rear rack 25 kgs (57 lbs.)
● bicycle bag at the back rest 15 kgs (34 lbs.)
● zipped bag in back rest 1 kgs (2.3 lbs)
● lowrider rack under the seat 25 kgs (57 lbs.)
Additional loading can influence the road performance of your bike considerably. If you plan
on riding with heavy luggage we advise you to
make a test ride on a street with no traffic to
get used to the new situation.
The load should be packed as close to the body of the rider as possible, since this results in
a better riding performance.You can also improve the handling of the bike by positioning
the center of gravity of the luggage as low as
possible, so pack heavy items in the bottom of
your panniers.
Be careful that your luggage is safely stored on
the racks. Bags must be tightly fastened to the
rack or to the lowrider carrier that is available
as accessory. Make sure that loose parts like
straps or belts can not touch the wheels, the
derailleur, or the suspension.
We recommend bicycle bags by O
RTLIEB.You
can buy them with extra large hooks matching
the oversized tubes of the rack.You can also
retrofit those large hooks later.
Take care that your luggage does not cover
the lighting system and the reflectors of your
bicycle and that they stay fully functional.
In case you want to park your bicycle take care to lean it on a wall or any other solid object.With the kickstand alone it is not possible
to safely park a bicycle loaded with luggage, it
could fall down and be damaged.
General safety instructions
Page 7
General safety instructions
HP
Velotechnik
5
Transport in the car
The best way to transport your bicycle is inside the car.Take care that it does not lie on the
derailleur.
If you want to transport it outside the car we
recommend a roof-rack or a rear carrier.Take
care to fasten your bicycle at the frame only.
Please remove any parts that could come loose during transport (water bottles, luggage
bags, pumps, pennants, etc.).
Do not take kids with you
The Spirit is not designed for the transport of
children.You are not allowed to mount a child's seat. It is only allowed to transport children
in a trailer that has been specially designed for
that purpose.
Trailers
You are allowed to use trailers up to 40 kg
(88 lbs.) with the Spirit.We recommend to assemble it with the Weber-coupling Type E.
Always check that the suspension and the trailer still work properly after you have mounted
the trailer.Take care that the trailer does not
damage the frame in case the bicycle falls over.
Added parts and accessories
Additional accessories may impair the function
of your Spirit.We advise you to generally ask
your dealer before you mount any special
parts or accessories to your bicycle.
Take care that the handlebar and the suspension always stay movable.You must not add
any parts to the handlebar or the seat that
might endanger the rider through sharp edged
or pointed shapes while steering, getting on
and off the bike or bumping against something.
Before you purchase a bell or a lighting system
make sure that these accessories conform to
your national laws and regulations.
Fairings
When you mount a fairing to your Spirit please take care to assure a good vision over the
fairing and sufficient freedom of movement below.
Please take into account that any fairing makes
the bicycle more prone to crosswind influences. In strong wind or gusts of wind unsafe situations may occur, please take off the fairing
in such weather conditions before the ride.
Caution! Do not fasten your bicycle at the
handlebar or, with disassembled wheels, at
the dropouts.The wind causes violent forces
that can stress the parts and therefore may
cause damage. Such damage may not be noticed immediately.
Caution! Mounting additional parts or accessories is at your own risk. It is important
that you carefully read the installation guide
of the manufacturer.Additions to the handlebar like fairings, handlebar fittings, bottle holders, etc. may impair your safety due to additional loading or clips with sharp edges.
Page 8
HP
Velotechnik
6
Replacement of parts
The replacement of parts relevant for safety
(especially brakes, lighting system, handlebar,
fork, drive train, suspension elements) should
only be done with original parts by a bicycle
mechanic, since it requires a certain degree of
skill, suitable tools and mechanical aptitude.
Any technical change you perform on your
own is at your own risk!
No alteration of parts
Final assembly
Your bike has been delivered to your specialist
dealer only partly assembled.
Your dealer has carefully finished the assembly,
perhaps altered the specification of your bike
to meet your special requirements and performed a test ride. Please take care that this predelivery service is recorded in the warranty
pass at the end of this manual.
All screws must be checked and tightened,
especially at handlebar, stem, fork, swing arm
pivot and wheels. Please follow the tightening
settings in the table on page 55.
Rear derailleur and brakes must be checked
and adjusted. Please follow the instructions in
the manuals of the parts manufacturers that
come with this manual.
Screws and bolts
General safety instructions
Danger! If any part is deformed (e.g. due to
an accident or overload), especially frame,
fork, handlebar, seat mounts, pedal, cranks
and brakes, it is not allowed to use it any
further or repair it. Do not try to straighten
bent parts.You must replace them for your
own safety. If you do not replace a damaged
part it can result in a total failure of the part
and you may be seriously injured!
Caution! You are not allowed to perform
any work on the parts of the bicycle, especially frame, fork, handlebar and seat, which
might endanger their solidity.
These works include drilling holes, welding,
brazing, painting methods that add heat or
any other chemical treatment. If any of these
works is done improperly it may result in a
loss of strength by direct damage or increased susceptibility to corrosion.
Caution! Screws must be tightened with
prescribed tightening torque. In this handbook tightening torques are given in Nm
(Newtonmeter).Always use a torque
wrench wherever a torque setting is given in
this manual. Never rely on "feel". Screws
tightened too much or not enough can
break, which can lead to dangerous accidents. In case you don't own a torque
wrench have your bicycle mechanic do the
respective work.You will find a table with
the prescribed torque settings on page 55 in
this manual.
Page 9
HP
Velotechnik
General safety instructions
7
Quick release levers
Quick release levers hold the seat of your
Spirit in position.
The wheels are equipped either with screws
and nuts at the axles or with quick releases.
The following instructions are also valid for
the wheels. Please read the instructions of the
quick release manufacturer.
A quick release lever consists of two basic
parts: the lever on one side provides the clamping force.With the adjusting nut on the other
side you adjust the clamping tension on the
screw thread.
To open the quick release move the lever away
from the frame. In doing so the inscription
"open" should be visible on the lever.
To close the quick release move the lever with
power in the other direction so that the word
"close" is visible on the outward side of the lever.At the start of the lever's motion, for, say,
half of its movement, the lever should move
very easily, without any clamping action. In the
second half of the lever's movement the force
on the leer should increase considerably, corresponding in the end to 15–20 kg (46 lbs.).
In its final position the lever should lie parallel
with the bicycle and should not stick out to
one side.
Check the security of the lever by attempting
to twist the lever. If the lever can be made to
pivot around in a circle the clamping is too
loose.You must re-open the quick release,
hold the lever and increase the clamping tension. Do this by screwing the adjustment nut
on the other side by half a turn. Close the lever and check the clamping anew.
Finally, check the that the part being secured is
firmly fixed: Lift each wheel several inch off the
ground and give it a slap onto the tire from
above.A properly fixed wheel will remain secure in the frame's dropouts.
The dropouts of the fork of your Spirit are designed as safety dropouts.Therefore you always have to loosen the clamping nut of the
quick release when you take off the front
wheel.When you reassemble it do not forget
to tighten the nut again!
Parts that are fastened with a quick release
open easily.Thus, they are more susceptible to
theft.Therefore, always secure the wheels with
a lock when you park your bicycle. It is also
possible to exchange the quick releases with
special security screws (e.g. from P
ITLOCK) that
can only be opened with a special tool. For
this please consult your local specialist dealer.
Danger! An incompletely or improperly
closed quick release can result in parts coming loose, and hence in a crash, possibly resulting in serious injury.
The quick release levers must be closed firmly. Hold the seat frame with your fingers to enhance your thumb’s power.
Page 10
HP
Velotechnik
8
Before the first ride: adjusting your
new Spirit
The seating position is essential for your riding
comfort, well-being and efficient cycling on the
Spirit.Therefore adjust the seat, handlebar, and
suspension to your individual requirements.
In order to adapt the Spirit as closely as possible to your body dimensions you can adjust
the distance from seat to pedals, the seat angle, the angle, and the position of the seat cushion individually.
The stem of the handlebar is vertically adjustable like a telescope.The handlebars are adjustable in their angle.
All adjustments together affect the distance
between your knees and the handlebars as
well as your minimum turning circle.
Remove your luggage prior to all adjustments.
That way you have easy access to all operating
elements and you don't complicate the adjustment by additional weight.
Adjusting the leg length: moving the
seat
The Spirit is designed for people from
150–200 cm (5'–6'7") height. In order to adjust
the distance between the pedals and the back
of the seat move the seat on the rails.
Open the two quick release levers under the
seat by turning away the silver levers from the
frame.
Hold the frame with one hand.With the other
hand you take hold of the seat unit at the integrated rear rack. Now move the seat to the
correct position.
Close the two quick release levers by moving
the levers towards the frame.The front lever
in particular has to be closed tightly so that
the angle of the back of the seat does not
change during a ride.
In order to check the adjustments have another person hold the bicycle while you are sitting on the recumbent.
Adjust the seat in a way that your leg is fully
extended when your heel (wearing flat shoes)
is in the foremost position on the pedal.
Experience shows that the pedal-to-seat distance on a recumbent can be slightly longer
than on a conventional bike.While you are pedaling the ball of your foot should be positioned over the center of the pedal axle. It is important that your leg is not fully straightened
when the crank is in the foremost position.
If the distance is too long it is difficult to overcome this dead point, pedaling becomes uncomfortable and there is too much strain on
the sinews of your feet.
Adjusting the seat
Danger! All procedures described here re-
quire a certain degree of skill, suitable tools
and mechanical aptitude.After any assembly
operation perform a static check and take a
short test-ride on a quiet street, away from
traffic. If you have any doubts please contact
your local dealer.
Page 11
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
If the distance is too short you may suffer
from knee pain or your legs may bump on the
handlebar.
A wrong adjustment may lead to pain in your
knees and inefficient pedaling. In addition we
recommend to ride with a high pedalling cadence, which means to pedal fast and with little pressure. Pedalling with too much pressure
may also lead to pain in the knees.You will find
more information about this on page 26.
9
The area wherein you move the seat is limited
to the front by a screw at the and of the rail.
The screw head keeps the seat from gliding
down off the rail and damages the surface of
the frame tube. Always take care that this
screw is placed in its hole at the right front of
the rail.
The seat rail has marks for easy length adjustment.The maximum rear position is clearly
marked with a „max“ mark. Do not move the
seat further back once the front edges of the
front sliders are aligned with the „,max“ mark.
Since the rail is open at the rear end you can
take off the seat for transportation.
To reconnect the seat onto the rail adjust the
two sliders on the quick release lever axle parallel to each other and to the rail and move
the seat slowly onto the rail.
The easiest way to do it is when you park
your bicycle with the kickstand. Kneel down
behind the bicycle to have a good view on the
rail and the sliders.
Take care that your fingers do not get caught
between the rear rack and the frame and thus
get hurt while you move the seat.
Adjust the seat so that your knee will not be fully straightened
when pedaling.
Caution! The two quick releases have to be
closed firmly (tightening force 15–20 kg /
45 lbs.) to safely hold the seat.You must not
open them while riding.After they have been
closed the imprint "close" must be visible. If
the quick releases are not tightened appropriately the seat can move while riding and
you may no more be able to control your
bicycle.
Caution! The seat rail does not have a limitation at the rear end. If you move the seat
too far back the rear sliders glide off the rail
so that you can't position the seat properly
anymore.Always take care to not move the
seat too far back.
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HP
Velotechnik
To adjust the angle of the back rest only open
the front quick release lever.That way the seat
stays fixed on the rail and you keep the adjustment made for the leg length. Only when the
back quick release lever is closed very tightly
it is better to open it a little bit, too.
The rear rack moves together with the seat
back.Take care to keep your fingers, bags,
straps, etc. away from the area between integrated rear rack and frame while adjusting the
seat back.
Hold the seat at the upper end of the back
rest and move it to the correct angle.
Close the quick release levers.
10
Adjusting the seat angle
You can adjust the seat back in a range of
55° - 65°.
The angle you feel comfortable with depends
on the form and the length of your back.
The back seat back has an ergonomic shape
according to the S-form of the spine.The upper bend automatically puts the neck in an
upright position so that you don't feel any
strain in neck and shoulders even on a long ride.
In addition to this you can influence the shape
of the back rest by adjusting the tension of the
inlaying belts.
To get started we recommend a medium seat
angle. After you have gained some riding experience you can start trying different angles.
Recumbent beginners often start with a very
upright seat position.That way the biggest part
of your weight lies on the seat cushion and
you mainly sit on your muscles which can lead
to problems on a long ride.
The lower the angle the better you distribute
your weight between seat cushion and seat
back - this is one of the main advantages of
the recumbent.
Another advantage of a low seat back angle is
better aerodynamics. In a recumbent position
you don't offer much area for head wind
which can result in a big plus in velocity.
Adjusting the seat
Caution! The two quick releases have to be
tightened firmly (tightening force 15–20 kgs.
/ 45 lbs.) after adjusting the seat.You must
not open them while riding.After they have
been closed the imprint "close" must be visible. If the quick releases are not tightened
appropriately the seat can move while riding
and you may no more be able to control
your bicycle.
Adjusting the Seat Back
Page 13
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
11
Adjusting the seat cushion
The angle of the seat cushion has an immediate effect on your riding comfort.
The steeper you adjust the cushion, i.e. the
higher the position of the front part, the more
contact the cushion has with your thighs.That
way you distribute your weight on a larger
area.The feeling of being "in the seat instead of
on the seat" is something which most people
sense as very comfortable.
However, if the angle of the cushion is too
steep it may pinch a little bit while pedaling.
When you lower the front part a little bit it is
also more comfortable for smaller riders to
rest their feet on the ground during a stop.
In case the angle of the cushion is too flat you
may have sometimes the impression that you
slide off the seat to the front.
You will find the most comfortable seating position when you try different combinations of
the angle of the cushion with its horizontal position, as described in the following.
To adjust the angle of cushion you have to unscrew the the bolt on the left side under the
seat cushion, directly behind the forward quick
release with a hex key size 5.You may loosen
the forward and backward quick release a little
bit in order to make adjustment easier.
Grab the front part of the seat cushion and
move it up or down to the correct angle.
Take care not to get caught in the moving
parts with your fingers or your clothing.
Close the quick release levers and tighten the
bolt with 5-6 Nm.
The angle of both seat cushion and back rest
is fixed by friction.That’s why it is necessary to
apply high tightening forces.
Always take care that the two grooved washers at the front quick release lever are located between quick release and seat fitting.
Unscrewing the bolt on the left side under the seat cushion
Caution! The two quick releases have to be
tightened firmly (tightening force 15–20 kgs.
/ 45 lbs.) after adjusting the seat.You must
not open them while riding.After they have
been closed the imprint "close" must be visible. If the quick releases are not tightened
appropriately the seat can move while riding
and you may no more be able to control
your bicycle.
Page 14
HP
Velotechnik
12
Adjusting the seat cushion horizontally
The seat cushion is attachted to its brackets in
long holes.That way you can adjust the horizontal seat position individually.
The more you move the cushion to the front,
the larger the seating area which distributes
your weight evenly.
However, if the cushion is too far towards the
front you may feel a gap between seat and
back rest.
Also, the further the cushion is at the front
the bigger is the feeling of being pinched at the
front part of the cushion, also see page 11 for
reference.
We recommend to start with a middle position and to change it only when necessary.
At the bottom of the seat there are four hexheaded screws. Unscrew these screws with a
hex key 4 by several turns.
Tighten the screws with 4-6 Nm.
Adjusting the seat
You can move the seat cushion back or forth after you have loosened the four hex-headed screws.
Page 15
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
13
Adjusting the height
The handlebars of the Spirit are held by a telescopic stem that is vertically adjustable.
The height of the handlebars determines the
distance to your knees and the maximum possible steering angle of the front wheel.
Before you adjust the height and the angle of
the handlebars please make sure that the seat
of your Spirit is well adjusted to your leg
length, see page 8.
When you have little experience with recumbents, we recommend you to choose a high
position for the handlebars, so you have the
biggest possible moving range for your legs.
After you have gained some riding experience
you can lower the handlebars.The lower the
handlebars the sooner your knees touch them
while riding in a curve.
A low position of the handlebars permits a relaxed position for your arms and a good view
forward.
The handlebar stem consists of two parts.The
upper part is connected with the handlebars
and you slide it telescopically into the lower
part.
The lower part has two clamping connections
where the tube is slotted.There’s a clamping
bolt at each slot.Those connections are in particular the connection to the upper part of the
stem and the connection stem/fork at the lower end of the tube.
You adjust the height of the handlebars at the
clamping at the upper end of the lower part of
the stem.
Adjusting the handlebars
You can adjust the height of the handlebars by undoing the
clamping screw.
Danger! Every time you loosen one of the
clamping connections you have to check the
clamping screw.You also have to check the
welded-on thread nut.The thread must not
be damaged and the screw must turn easily.
Once a year you have to dismount the
screw completely and check it. In case of damage or deformation you have to change
the clamping screw immediately.When you
refit the screw, it has to be lubricated carefully and tightened with the required tightening torque (see table on page 55).
In case you tighten the screws too much the
clamping may deform and break.When you
bend the screws while tightening they may
break and the clamping can loosen.When
you tighten the screws with an insufficient
tightening torque, the clamping does not reach the necessary strength.This can result in
twisting the handlebars or the stem easily
while riding.All these assembly errors can
lead to dangerous falls!
Page 16
HP
Velotechnik
The cables are secured in their guides with
plastic clips.Alternatively, you can fasten the
cables with zip ties that are put through the
cut in the guide.
Adjusting the angle of the foldable
stem
As an option, the Spirit can be equipped with
the foldable Glideflex stem from Terracycle.
Angle adjustment of the folding stem
The Glideflex unit is equipped with a backstop
adjustment screw close to the pivot axle.To
adjust the backstop, fold the stem forward and
turn the backstop screw in or out with a 4
mm hex key.Turning the bolt in (clockwise) allows the handlebars to fold further back; turning the bolt out stops the handlebars from going as far back.
Adjusting the folding friction
To adjust the folding friction, tighten or loosen
the pivot bolt with a 5 mm hex key.Tightening
the bolt will increase friction; loosening will
decrease friction.
The friction adjustment should not need frequent readjustment in normal use. Sometimes,
rain will cause the friction to drop slightly, but
things should go back to normal when dried
out.
14
Loosen the hex-headed screw with an hex key
6 by several turns. Now you can slide the upper part of the stem up or down.
Secure the front wheel with your legs and turn
the handlebars perpendicular to the front
wheel.
Tighten the clamping screw with 14-16 Nm.
Check the safe clamping by trying to twist the
handlebars against the front wheel.
Take special care that the cable of the front
disc brakes is not bent or stretched when you
move the handlebars strongly.
You can make smaller adjustments by moving
the cables in their guides at the frame and the
handlebar, so that there is enough room at all
moving parts.
If this proves not to be sufficient you will have
to have your specialist dealer shorten the cables or replace them by longer cables.
Adjusting the Handlebars
Danger! The minimum insertion depth of 7
cm (2 3/4") must not be dropped below. In
no case the lower end of the inserted tube
may be visible in the clamping slot.The mark
on the upper stem part must not be visible
above the lower part! When the stem sticks
out too far the clamping may be damaged or
the stem may come loose while riding,
which can result in a dangerous fall.
Caution! After you have adjusted the handlebar position you also have to adjust the
length of the brake cables and shifter cables.
The cables have to run smoothly without
any sharp turns and they must not be bent
or stretched beyond their elastic limit when
the handlebar is at maximum steering angle.
Also avoid large arches that could be caught
by other parts.
Caution! Do not turn the screw so far out
that it contacts the top of the stem when it
is folded back.The bolt must contact the
sloping surface.
Danger! Do not loosen the bolt past the
minimum friction point. If you do, retighten
the bolt until you can feel the friction increase.The bolt must be secured with threadlocker.
Page 17
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
While riding you should allow your arms to
rest in a relaxed position on the handlebars.
Do not pull on the handlebars. If the handlebars turn in the stem clamping during the ride,
stop immediately and tighten the clamping
screw of the handlebars again.
If the handlebars turn in a stem that is not sufficiently clamped, the handlebars or the stem
might be damaged or deformed. In that case a
safe clamping can no longer be guaranteed,
even with the correct tightening torque, and
handlebars and stem have to be exchanged.
Handlebar grips
The grips on the handlebar are susceptible to
wear and tear. Have your grips replaced by
your bike shop once they don't feel comfortable anymore.The grips always need to be attached firmly to the handlebar.
15
Adjusting the angle of the handlebars
By changing the angle of the handlebars you
can adjust the position of the grips to the
length of your upper body and arms.
Most riders are comfortable with a 45° angle,
so that the grips are in a lower/inner position.
The more you turn the grips down the less
you can cramp the front wheel, since the
handlebars touch your knees earlier.
In order to change the angle loosen the clamping screw of the handlebars at the upper part
of the stem a little bit.Turn the handlebars into
your favorite position. Check that the stem
clamps the handlebars precisely in their middle.
Tighten the clamping screw with approx. 6-8
Nm. Check the correct clamping of the handlebars by pulling and turning them. In doing so,
they must not move.
Please take care that the stem clamp is free
from burrs and there are no sharp edges. A
sharp edge can cause the handlebars to break.
Danger! Every time you loosen the clamping connection you have to check the clamping screw. It must not show any sign of damage, deformation or corrosion.The thread
must not be damaged and the screw must
turn easily. In case of damage or deformation
you have to replace the clamping screw immediately.
After you have loosened the clamping screw you can adjust the
handlebar amgle.
Page 18
HP
Velotechnik
16
Purpose of the adjustment of the suspension
Your Spirit is fitted with a suspension fork for
the front wheel and a rear swing arm for the
suspension of the rear wheel.This system
compensates slight bumps on the road so that
riding is comfortable and the strain on your bicycle is reduced.
A well-adjusted suspension improves the traction of your bicycle on uneven roads.
Especially when riding in a bend this allows a
higher speed and also improves the safety.
In order to achieve maximum riding comfort,
the suspension settings have to match your
weight as well as the road condition.
The goals of the adjustment are:
● maximum use of the available suspension
travel without the suspension frequently bot
toming out
● quick reaction of the suspension without
obvious oscillation after having passed a
bump
● avoiding self enforcing oscillations, that means
increasing oscillations of the suspension
system due to pedaling influence, rhythmic
body movements or permanent wavy underground
Suspension and damping
The suspension systems of the suspension fork
and the rear swing arm are fitted with the actual springs and dampers which are mounted
separately. Often, the terms suspension and
damping are used inappropriately in everyday
language.
The spring is the elastic element that compresses and decompresses through the load
which occurs on bumpy roads.While decompressing the spring releases the same energy it
has saved during compression.
The Spirit is fitted with coil springs of steel at
the suspension fork and the rear fork swinging
arm.
The damper slows down the process of compression and decompression.That means that
the bicycle after having passed a bump does
not immediately "spring" back to the initial position or even further than that.The damper
converts spring energy into friction and finally
into heat, and thus takes away energy from the
suspension system.That way the damper prevents that the spring swings uncontrolled after
an initial stimulation. In addition, the damper
helps to avoid self inforcing oscillations of the
suspension that may be caused by reoccurring
stimulations like pedaling forces within a crank
revolution or the rhythmic up and down movement of the legs.
The suspension fork of the Spirit works with a
mechanical friction damping.The rear suspension element has a hydraulic damping cartridge
with a specific damping rate.
Adjusting the suspension
Page 19
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
Adjusting to load
The luggage carriers of the Spirit are mounted
to the suspended part of the frame.That way
your luggage is also fully suspended and it spares the material. Most notably, even under heavy load the suspension will compensate an uneven road much better and quicker compared
to a design where the luggage carrier would
be mounted to the unsuspended parts, e.g. the
rear swing arm.
Additional luggage changes the load of the
wheels and their suspension.The suspensions
are more compressed through the load.That
way, there is less suspension travel for bumps
while riding.Your suspension could seize up
more often.
The suspension of the front wheel is less affected since luggage at the rear rack almost only
puts weight on the rear wheel.
The distribution of the load also differs with a
change of the seat position.The more you move the seat to tha back the more you have to
increase the spring stiffness.
In order to compensate the variations in the
load you can change the pre-load.
This can compensate for a load of approx. 10
kg (23 lbs.) at the rear wheel. In case of higher
variations in the load you would have to exchange the spring for another spring with another spring stiffness.
17
You can ride the Spirit with a considerably lower damping than for example a MTB: due to
the relaxed and steady position of the body,
the recumbent does not experience extreme
variations in the load as it is known from the
dancing on the pedals while riding uphill on a
mountain bike.
In addition to this, varying pedaling forces have
very little influence on the suspension of the
bicycle due to the No Squat design of the suspension system of the Spirit.
It is necessary to choose the correct spring
stiffness to have a well operating suspension
system.The spring stiffness is a measure for
the compression of a spring at a certain load.
It is either given in "N/mm" (Newton per
Millimeters) or "lbs/inch" (Pounds per Inch).
Sometimes you only find "lbs." printed on the
springs.
The suspension is designed in a way that the
spring compresses considerably when you
mount your bicycle.This is called negative suspension travel and it enables the bicycle to
decompress on bumpy roads.You should choose a spring stiffness with which this negative
suspension travel takes up around 20-30% of
the overall suspension travel.This value usually
provides a very comfortable ride on your fully
suspended recumbent bike designed by HP
V
ELOTECHNIK.
Page 20
HP
Velotechnik
You will reach this value by changing the air
pressure in the fork.
It is not important to exactly follow the recommended values for the negative travel, rather follow your feeling how the bicycle behaves during a ride, depending on the road situation and your speed.
While riding you should only seldomly feel the
suspension bottoming out. However, in case
this never occurs, the suspension might be set
up too hard, which means you don't use the
available suspension travel.
18
Adjusting the suspension
Front wheel suspension with suspension fork
The front wheel is suspended by a suspension
fork.The suspension fork of the Spirit comes
with an Airwings steering tube suspension system. In contrast to conventional telescopic
suspension forks the suspension elements are
situated in the steering tube above the crown
of the fork.
During compression the lower part of the fork
moves into the steering tube that is held in
the frame by the headset.A shock boot protects the moving parts against soiling. Inside
the steering tube there is a linear ball bearing
that secures the parts of the fork against turning, thus enabling precise steering movements.
A new suspension fork has to be broken in for
at least 300 km (190 miles), so that the guides
adjust and rough edges become smooth.At the
beginning, the fork only compresses through
harder shocks.Therefore, you should wait for
the end of the break in period to judge the
spring stiffness correctly.
The suspension travel is about 40 mm (1,6
inch).The suspension fork should compress by
20-30% when you sit down on your bike (negative travel), this corresponds to 9-11 mm
(0,4 - 0,43 inch).
The suspension of the front wheel is integrated in the steering tube.
Page 21
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
19
Recommended air pressures
load pressure
to 80 kg 8 bar
to 100 kg 9 bar
to 130 kg 10 bar
Maximum allowed pressure: 20 bar
To pump up the suspension fork you need a
special air pump designed for bicycle air
shocks. It must feature a fitting schrader valve
adaptor and a pressure indicator.When attaching or removing the pump to/from the valve,
you will lose some pressure (about 0,5-1 bar).
Take off the pump quickly.
Remount the handlebar stem on the steerer
tube. Secure the front wheel with your legs
and adjust the handlebar perpendicular to the
front wheel. Check the safe clamping by trying
to twist the handlebars against the front
wheel.
Adjusting the spring stiffness of the
suspension fork
In order to adjust the spring stiffness you have
to take off the handlebar stem (not with
Glideflex folding stem). For that purpose, loosen the lower clamping screw of the handlebar
stem which clamps the slotted tube of the
stem on the steerer tube with a hex key 6.
Take off the handlebar stem and carefully put it
aside. In doing so, take care not to bend or
stretch the cables.
Now you can see Schrader valve at the end of
the steering tube. Use a fork pump to change
the air pressure in the suspension system.
You increase the spring stiffness by increasing
the air pressure (pumping in more air).
You decrease the spring stiffness by decreasing
the air pressure (deflate some air).
Caution! Do not loosen the smaller clamping clip below the stem tube.This clip secures the headset and adjusts the steering
play. If you have loosened this screw you will
possibly have to readjust the headset, see
page 43.
After you have loosened the clamping screw of the stem you can
take off the stem.
In the inner fork steerer tube you will find an air valve to adjust
the air pressure.
Danger! Please take care that the air suspension cartridge never protrudes more
than 13-23 mm above the fork’s steering tube. Else the cartridge may become loose.
This may lead to uncontrollable situations
and serious injury.
Page 22
HP
Velotechnik
20
Adjusting the suspension
Page 23
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
21
Adjusting the rear suspension element
For the rear suspension of the Spirit a steel
spring is combined with a hydraulic damping
unit in a spring element.
The damping results from fluid friction of an
oil flow through thin holes of a throttle valve
in between two chambers inside the damper.A
slightly noticeable sound that may occur from
this oil flow is normal.
Due to the fluid friction the spring element
may heat up, therefore touch the spring element after a ride only when it has cooled off.
Your Spirit comes standard with a steel spring
rear shock.As an Option, the air shock DTS
WISS XM-180 can be installed. Please read the
manual of the rear shock manufacturer for details.
For the rear wheel the same guidelines as for
the suspension fork are valid: for maximum riding comfort the suspension should compress
by about 30% of the total suspension travel
(100 mm) while you mount the bicycle in driving position.This corresponds to about 30
mm (1 1/5 inch).
For that purpose measure for example the distance between the end of the main frame and
the rear wheel while the bike is unloaded as
well as while sitting on the bicycle in riding position.Also take into account possible luggage.
You can affect this negative suspension travel
depending on how much you weigh and how
much you load your bike either by adjusting
the suspension pre-load for fine tuning or by
replacing the spring with a spring with a different stiffness in the rough tuning.
Rear suspension element of the Spirit
Danger! Take care that the rear wheel or
the mudguard or the suspension element
never hit the frame or the rear rack while
the suspension is fully compressed.
Therefore, relax the spring completely by
turning the spring retention disc on the
thread of the spring element as far as possible. Have a second person mount the bicycle
and make the suspension bottom out by leaning on the seat or the rear rack.
Danger! While adjusting the rear suspension element never load the bicycle, e.g.
through resting on the seat or loading the
rear rack, when your hands or tools are close to the suspension element. Otherwise
your hands may get caught and squeezed
when the suspension compresses.
Danger! The suspension elements are filled
with gas under high pressure. Never try to
open the damper or to remove the screw at
the gas tank. Inside the damper there are no
user serviceable parts. In case of damage
you will have to take the complete suspension element to your dealer.
Page 24
HP
Velotechnik
22
Adjusting the pre-load of the rear
suspension element (steel spring)
The preload determines how far the suspension compresses when you are sitting on the
bicycle while standing still.
In order to adjust the suspension pre-load
turn the knobby adjustment ring on the threaded part of the suspension element by hand.
Turning the adjustment ring clockwise (looking
at it from behind) reduces the pre-load, turning it anti-clockwise, you screw the adjustment ring towards the spring and increase the
suspension pre-load. It is helpful to turn the
spring together with the adjustment ring.
The adjustment ring should be turned no more than five turns (measured from the relaxed
position) towards the spring. If the suspension
compresses still too far even after six turns,
the spring is too soft and has to be replaced
by a harder spring.A too big pre-load of a too
soft spring does not take advantage of the full
comfort potential. For instructions on changing
the spring see page 45.
Adjusting the suspension
Turning the adjustment ring for the pre-load..
Danger! The adjustment ring has always to
be screwed so far towards the spring that
the spring has no play when unloaded.
Otherwise the adjustment ring could come
loose through shocks while riding, so that
the slotted rear spring retention disc comes
off. In that case the suspension element may
be damaged or the rear wheel could hit the
frame or rear rack, which may lead to serious falls.
Always have an initial preload by at least half
a turn on the spring.
Page 25
Adjusting your new bike
HP
Velotechnik
Air shock DT.SWISS XM-180
This rear shock contains pressurized air in a
main („positive“) air chamber as suspension
medium.Air shocks are lighter than steel
spring rear shocks.Another advantage is that
the spring stiffness can be easily adjusted with
an air pump: By increasing the pressure the
spring becomes harder.
The valve for the air chamber is located at the
back end of the air shock.The valve is protected by a metal valve cap.
To pump up the air shock you need a special
air pump designed for bicycle air shocks. It
must have a fitting schrader valve adaptor and
a pressure indicator.
When attaching or removing the pump
to/from the valve, you will lose some pressure
(about 0,5-1 bar).Take off the pump quickly.
Recommended pr
essur
e settings
load pressure
– 80 kg (183 lbs) 10,5 bar
–100 kg (230 lbs) 11,5 bar
–130 kg (286 lbs) 13,0 bar
Maximum allowed pressure is 18 bar.
23
Danger! Take care that the rear wheel or
mudguard or suspension element never hit
the frame, seat or rear rack box while the
suspension is fully compressed.
Therefore fully deflate the air shock. Have a
second person sit down on the bicycle and
make the suspension bottom out by pushing
on the seat or the rear rack.
Adjusting the damping
By adjusting the damping you can adjust the
performance of the suspension precisely to
your individual riding situation.A rough street
with many harsh bumps that occur in a row or
even cobblestones needs a low damping rate
while a road with long stretched bumps that
occur more regularly needs a stronger damping to achieve a smooth road holding.
Please note that you can seriously spoil the
riding comfort through a bad damper setting,
especially through unsystematic playing with
the knobs that may result in much to high
damper values. In the worst case the suspension element will neither compress nor decompress. If you are in doubt please consult
your local dealer.
A good setting for maximum comfort is
achieved when the rear wheel decompresses
completely after a shock and then oscillates
only once. In order to check the adjustment
you will need a second person that compresses the suspension by pushing the bicycle down
while you are sitting on the bicycle in the riding position.The other person can then observe the suspension movements.
In order to adjust the damping during decompression, turn the adjustment knob on top of
the rear end of the suspension element.
If you turn the knob in direction of the „-“ you
will get less damping and thus faster decompression.Turning the knob in direction of the
„+“ will give you more damping and thus slower decompression.
Page 26
HP
Velotechnik
24
Learning the new riding technique
Your new bicycle has been assembled by your
specialist dealer and adjusted together with
you as described on the previous pages under
"Adjusting your new bicycle". Before you
mount your bike and take your first ride please make yourself familiar with the instructions
on the riding technique and the handling.
To ride this recumbent you will have to make
yourself acquainted with the different riding
position. Make sure that you and all other future users of this bicycle will have read this
manual carefully prior to the first ride. If you
are in doubt please consult your local dealer.
Before the first ride, the users of this recumbent have to practice and make themselves familiar with the different handling.We recommend to practice riding your Spirit on a quiet
road away from traffic. Before you ride the bicycle in traffic you must master the handling
completely.
Go to a road where you can ride straight ahead without being hindered. Hold your bike at
the handlebar and pull a break.Then sit down
on your bicycle and lean back. Leave one foot
on the ground and put one on the pedal.
Therefore, rotate the crank in the top position
so that you can later pedal with power.
Try to keep your balance in that position.
Assure yourself that you can stop whenever
you want to and hold the bicycle with one
foot on the ground.When you feel safe put
pressure on the pedal, loosen the brake, pedal
with a lot of force and immediately put your
second foot on the other pedal.
Do not care on which side of pedal you are
currently pedaling in the beginning. Hold the
handlebar loose but steady. Do not pull at it.
Accelerate with a few pedal strokes.Your bicycle needs speed to stabilize.
Look ahead in the direction where you want
to ride, not at the handlebar, at your feet or
the front wheel.
In order to stop, brake carefully with both brakes until the bicycle has come to a complete
stop. Only then you put a foot on the ground
and keep the balance.
Learning the new riding technique
Danger! Never touch the ground with your
feet while the bicycle is still moving.The feet
could be caught on the ground and be pulled
backwards which could lead to a serious injury.
Danger! With a compact recumbent like
the Spirit it is possible that a foot of the rider contacts the front wheel when riding
sharp corners with a pedal in the front position.You will have to avoid this situation at
all times since in extreme situations it may
lead to a fall and injuries.
To control the bicycle you will therefore have to apply the following cornering technique: when you ride a curve stretch the leg
on the outside of the curve, stop pedaling,
only then start steering into the curve. Only
when you ride straight ahead again may you
resume pedaling.
Page 27
Handling instructions
Wear protective clothing
Riding a bicycle is a potentially dangerous
sport where accidents can happen even when
you take care of every safety instruction prescribed.
We recommend you to wear an approved bicycle helmet. Protect yourself by wearing special sports clothing that fits tight and is reflective.
When you fall with a recumbent you usually
land on the side of your hips and your hands.
Wearing reinforced cycling shorts and gloves
reduces the danger of skin injuries considerably.
Use clipless pedals
On request, your Spirit comes with pedals that
have a binding system on one side.
As soon as you are comfortable with riding
your Spirit you should use those clipless pedals. Due to the rigid connection between
shoe and pedal you don't have to keep your
foot on the pedals with pressure anymore. This
enables a more relaxed and round pedalling
movement where you may even pull a little on
the pedals.Without this connection to the pedals your feet may come off suddenly, which
may result in a fall. Modern system pedals with
binding therefore contribute to safe riding.
A first you will have to practice with these pedals to make sure that you can get off quickly
in a dangerous situation. Please note the manual of the pedal manufacturer that comes with
the binding system and have your dealer explain the use of the pedals to you. In the beginning set the release force of the binding to a
low value to make sure you can get off safely.
Please use exclusively the original shoe plates /
cleats from the manufacturer of the pedals, do
not use any other brand. If you use non-authorized shoe plates the binding system can not
operate safely.
At first you will have to practice with these
pedals to make sure that you can get off quickly in a dangerous situation. Please read the
manual of the pedal manufacturer that comes
with this manual and have your dealer explain
the use of the pedals to you. In the beginning
set the release force of the binding to a low
value to make sure you can get off safely.
Please use exclusively the original shoe plates /
cleats from the manufacturer of the pedals, do
not use any other brand. If you're using shoe
plates that are not authorised the binding system won't work properly.
Protective clothing, cleatless pedals
Danger! Please note that you may be not
be very late or not at all by other road
users due to the low seat height and ride
anticipatory according to this.This is especially important while riding in darkness.You
yourself have a much better view than
others perceive you. Ride defensively. We recommend you to mount a well visible and
reflecting flag to the bicycle while using it in
traffic. Please ask your dealer for more information.
Page 28
HP
Velotechnik
26
Slowly increase the strain
We recommend you to perform only short rides without much power during the first
weeks.
Always use a low gear and ride with a high pedaling frequency. Only after having acquired some training increase the strain slowly.
When you ride on a recumbent you use other
muscles than on a conventional bicycle, and
they have to be trained first.
In case of an overload, the blood circulation in
your legs may be affected, which shows in loss
of power, a prickling in the toes, falling asleep
of the legs or cramps.When you have a sporty
way of riding, it can take up to 6 months until
you have become accustomed to your recumbent.
Should you have pain in your knees while riding this is usually the result of too much power put into pedaling.The good support of the
back sometimes misleads to putting the full
power of the legs in the pedal, similar to the
leg training machines in the fitness center.
When you repeat it regularly it is harmful for
the knees. Pain in the knees often results from
an overuse of the muscles in the knee that can
also be strengthened through exercise.
Also, a wrong adjustment to the leg length (in
most cases too short) can lead to pain in the
knees.You will find many tips on proper training for cyclists in miscellaneous books and
magazines for cyclists.
Your pedaling cadence should stay between
80-100 revolutions per minute and not fall below 60 revolutions when going uphill. If necessary have your specialist dealer adjust the gear
range to your riding style and the terrain you
usually ride.
When you have the impression that riding
your Spirit stresses your stomach muscles
considerably, please lean consciously back and
take care not to pull on the handlebars.
In case of persistent problems please consult
your doctor.
Do not ride freehand
Strain, Do not ride freehand
Danger! In order to ride safely you have to
keep both hands at the handlebar. Even
when signaling keep at least one hand at the
handlebar. Otherwise, unforeseen bumps in
the road or oscillations of the steering may
lead to a serious fall.
Page 29
Handling instructions
HP
Velotechnik
27
Do not pull at the handlebars How to ride correctly and safely
Always adjust your speed to the traffic, the road and the weather conditions. Ride slowly in
curves and on unknown roads.Always ride at a
safe distance from other road users, and when
you ride in a group never ride side by side.
When you approach a traffic light never ride
past the line of waiting cars, since even the
most attentive car driver may not see you due
to your low seating position.
Handlebars, Ride correctly and safely
Caution! Always carry your bicycle over
stairs and curbstones. Do not ride through
big road holes. Especially when road holes
are filled with water it is very difficult to
guess how deep they really are. In case you
hit such an obstacle, frame and fork may be
damaged which can result in a serious fall.At
first, the damage may be unnoticed. Please
check your bicycle immediately for deformations and cracks. If you are in doubt please
consult your local dealer.
Caution! Do not pull at the handlebars
with power.They have to be held in a relaxed position.The handlebars do not have
the task to absorb the pedaling forces, this
happens at the seat. Because of the long
stem you exert a big leverage on the stem
clamping of the fork when you pull at the
handlebars, and you might damage the fork.
A failure of the stem clamping can lead to
serious falls.
Prior to each ride, check the stem clamping
for any deformation or damage. In case of
damage you must not use your bicycle any
longer. Have your dealer exchange the damaged stem.
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HP
Velotechnik
28
Brakes
The Spirit is equipped with a powerful highquality brake system. Please read the separate
manual from the brake manufacturer that comes with your bike for details.
Make yourself familiar with the braking system.
Remember which lever pulls the front brake
and which the rear brake.
If the arrangement of the levers does not correspond to what you are used to, please have a
bicycle mechanic change it. Please contact your
bike dealer to find out if there exists any legal
requirement for the arrangement of the brake
levers in your country.
For optimum handling you can adjust the distance between the brake grip and the handlebar with a small hex-headed screw at the grip,
please see the respective manual for details.
Note that the rear brake is the most effective
brake on the Spirit.With the rear brake, you
achieve a much higher braking effect than with
the front brake.The front wheel has a tendency to lock up and slip on the pavement even
under low braking forces.
The braking effect of modern brake systems
can be more powerful than what you have
been used to until now. Brake carefully.
Do not brake in a bend, always brake before a
bend. Braking increases the risk of slipping.
If you should hear any unusual sounds while
braking or the braking effect is reduced, the
braking pads might be worn. Do not use your
bike any further until you have checked the
braking pads according to the manual of the
brake manufacturer or ask your local dealer.
Brakes
Danger! Please note that the braking di-
stance is much longer when it is wet or
when the bike is heavily loaded. When riding
on wet, sandy, icy or slippery roads you have
to use the front brake very carefully to avoid
that your front wheel slips. If it does so, you
will no longer be able to control your bike,
which might lead to a serious fall.
Danger! In case you get into a situation like
that during an emergency stop you have to
let go of the brakes immediately, balance
your bicycle and brake again. If you are not
familiar with the brakes, we recommend you
to train at first at low speed and with little
braking effect until you find the correct dose
for an emergency stop.
Page 31
Handling instructions
HP
Velotechnik
New brake systems, new brake pads and new
brake discs need a break-in period to achieve
maximum brake power.This period lasts for
about 30-40 stops from about 30 km/h
(20mph), which should be done in a safe area
without traffic.
29
Check before every ride:
● that the brake system does not have any da
mages or leaks by activating the lever, holding
it and checking the hose connections for
possible leaks.
● that the brake lever pressure is ok by pulling
the lever and ensuring that full braking per
formance is achieved before the lever tou
ches the handlebar. If this is not the case, ad
just the cable or change the brake pads, for
hydraulic disc brakes pull the lever several ti
mes (pump) until it feels firm.
● check the hydraulic brake system for the
correct pressure by pulling the lever, holding
the pressure and checking the hose connec
tions, bleeding screw and compensating tank
for possible leaks.
Caution! Disc brakes can overheat on long
downhill rides, fade and fail! Do not pull the
brake levers constantly but brake powerfully
from time to time. If you notice that the
braking power starts to fade, stop immediately and let your brakes cool down!
Danger! Never touch neither the brake
disc nor the brake caliper after long braking
as this may cause serious injury (risk of
burns).
Danger! Always make sure that the disc and
brake pads are free of oil and grease. If these
parts are dirty please do not use your bicycle any more.You can clean oily brake discs
with alcohol or a special spray. Oily brake
pads have to be replaced. If you are in
doubt, please have your specialist dealer
maintain your brake system.
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HP
Velotechnik
30
Gear System
With the gear system you can adjust the pedaling frequency, that means the number of revolutions of the crank per minute, to the terrain
and the desired speed.
Your pedaling frequency should stay between
80-100 revolutions per minute and should not
fall below 60 while going uphill. If necessary
consult your local dealer and have him adapt
the gear range to your style of riding.
Your Spirit comes with DualDrive gear system
by SRAM that combines a 3-gear internal hub
gear system with an 8-gear derailleur gear to
24 gears in total, which are easy to handle.As
an option, you can order the Spirit with a 14gear internal hub gear system made by
R
OHLOFF or only a derailleur gear system.The
following section refers to the DualDrive gear
system only. Please also refer to the manual of
the gear manufacturer.
With the left-hand twist grip you operate the
hub gear system.You can turn the grip while
standing as well as while riding with or without pedaling.The most comfortable and easiest way to shift gears is to shift while pedaling with reduced power.
According to the terrain choose between the
uphill mode "I", standard mode "2" and speed
mode "3".We recommend you to ride mostly
in the standard mode since the transmission
then operates at highest efficiency.
With the right-hand twist grip you operate the
derailleur gear.You can only change the gears
while you keep pedaling, smoothly and without
applying great force, all the time that the chain
is moving between the sprockets.
Choose between the easiest gear "I" and the
heaviest gear "8".
Due to the long cables that expand under
pressure and the housing that compresses under pressure, it may be helpful for changing gears quickly to turn the twist grip a little bit
farther than necessary to select a gear and
turn it back to the indexed position once the
chain has properly shifted ("overshift").
Riding a recumbent requires foresighted gear
shifting. Before stopping you should timely
change in a low gear to make it easy to start
off again, without having to pedal heavily struggling with your balance.Also while standing
you can still operate the left-hand twist grip to
the uphill mode "I".
In case your gear system does not operate
smoothly any more or causes noise while pedaling, please have your gear system readjusted
again according to the instructions on page 35.
Gear system
Danger! Do practice shifting gears on a
traffic-free street. In the course of this, make
yourself familiar with the function of the
twist grip shifters. Doing this in traffic could
distract your attention from possible dangers.
Page 33
Handling instructions
HP
Velotechnik
31
Lighting system
If you want to ride your bike on public streets,
it must be equipped with a legal lighting system. Do not only use your lights in the dark
but also in the twilight of dusk and dawn. Due
to laws and regulations the brightness of bicycle lights may be considerably lower than that
of other vehicles.Therefore always keep in
mind that other road-users may only see you
very late or not at all.
For the Spirit, HP V
ELOTECHNIK offers two dif-
ferent dynamo lighting systems: one with a tire
dynamo and the other with a hub dynamo.
Both lighting systems come with strong LEDs
for headlamp and rear light.The LEDs last considerably longer (approx. 100.000 working
hours) than a light bulb. For your safety the
lighting system has a parking light system at
the front and at the rear light, which makes
the LEDs shine a few minutes after you have
stopped riding.The electronic system is maintenance free. Because of the capacitors used
you don't have to worry about batteries.
The cables and the contacts can be affected by
corrosion or mechanical damage.Therefore,
check the lighting system before every ride.
Tire dynamo
You turn on the lighting system with the tire
dynamo at the rear wheel by unlocking the
swiveling mechanism of the dynamo. For this
purpose, you press the red button at the dynamo until it moves towards the rear wheel. To
turn the light off, you turn the dynamo back to
its initial position by hand.
Lighting system
You switch on the tire dynamo by pressing the red button.To
switch off the dynamo move it away from the wheel.
Danger! Do not try to move the dynamo
while riding, your hands can be caught in the
wheel and be injured! To turn the lighting system on or off stop riding, get up from your
bicycle and only then move the dynamo.
Danger! The dynamo must always be safely
fastened to the bracket at the frame, so that
it can not turn. If the screws comes loose
the dynamo can get caught in the spokes
and block the rear wheel - danger of a serious fall! Always check the position and secure attachment of the dynamo before a ride.
Page 34
HP
Velotechnik
32
You can adjust the pressure of the dynamo
against the wheel with the turning knob at the
side.The pressure is right when the dynamo
wheel just does not slip at the wheel, if the
light flickers, the pressure is too low and you
have to increase it. The dynamo should be positioned in a way that the extension of the dynamo axle points through the center of the
wheel.Take care that the dynamo is mounted
safely and can’t be turned.Worn dynamo
wheels can be exchanged. Please ask your specialist dealer.
Hub dynamo
The lighting system with a hub dynamo is switched on electrically. For this purpose you will
find a switch on the back of the headlamp with
three labeled switch positions.With the switch
you can turn the lighting system ON, OFF or
set it on SENSOR. In the SENSOR position a
twilight sensor in the lamp turns the lighting
system on and off automatically, depending on
the brightness of the environment.
The SON hub dynamo is highly efficient and
works silently.When the light is switched off, it
has a very low turning resistance.Although you
can feel the single poles of the used permanent magnets very distinctly when turning it by
hand, the real rolling resistance is minute. (The
loss is below 1 W at 15 km/h / 9,5 mph).
For details on the hub dynamo please visit
www.nabendynamo.de.
Stand
Only operate the stand when you stand beside
your bicycle.
Before riding check that the stand in any position does not affect the function of other
parts.
The stand is only suitable for parking the bike
on even, solid ground. In case of unsuitable
ground, luggage load or mounted fairings we
recommed to lean the bike securely against a
solid wall or pole.
Lighting system, Stand
You switch on the hub dynamo lighting system with the integrated switch on the front light.
Danger! Before every ride check whether
the stand is lifted up to its riding position.
With a recumbent stands are often forgotten. In the first left turn the stand can touch
the ground and cause a fall! After a fall you
will have to check the stand and the area
where it is mounted for damage and deformation.
Page 35
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
33
Maintenance and care
Your Spirit is equipped with the latest bicycle
technology that does not require much maintenance.
However, you will have to maintain your bicycle regularly, as it is with other vehicles, too.At
least once a year the bicycle has to be taken
to a bicycle mechanic for an overall service.
Only this way a long lasting and safe function
of all parts of your bicycle can be guaranteed.
It maintains the value of your bicycle as well as
the fun and the safety while riding for many
years.
Read in this chapter how you can carry out
smaller maintenance and care works between
the services.
For a quick overview of the works to be done
take a look at the warranty pass on page 58.
Wearing parts
As on many other vehicles, some parts on a
bicycle are affected by wear and tear.The lifetime expectation of these parts depends on
the intensity and type of use as well as on the
maintenance and care. Please keep in mind that
the process of wear and tear is normal and no
reason for a warranty claim against your dealer or HP Velotechnik.
You will find more specific information on
wear and tear in the chapters on the relevant
parts.
Maintenance and care, Brakes
Caution! The maintenance works of this re-
cumbent partly require special tools and
skills. Do only work within your limits and,
in the interests of your own safety, do not
go beyond. Should you be uncertain at any
point, get in contact with your local dealer.
Brakes
The brake pads suffer from wear due to friction and have to be exchanged then. Depending
on riding conditions, they can last bewteen a
few hundred up to several thousand kilometers. Please read the manual of the brake manufacturer carefully.
With rim brakes the rim walls suffer from
wear.When the rims are too worn the tire
pressure can tear up the rim and damage the
wheel. Please have your bicycle mechanic check
your rims at the latest after the second brake
pad change and exchange them if necessary.
Cable oper
ated (mechanical) brakes
The brake pads of your brakes are worn when
you can pull the lever further and further to
the handlebar before the pads touch the rim.
Rim brakes:When the pads are so worn that
you can't see the cross grooves of the pad
anymore you should have your bicycle mechanic replace the brake pads.
To compensate the wear of the brake pads
you can tighten the cable with the adjuster
barrel where the cable touches the brake
lever. First loosen the locknut, then unscrew
the barrel so far that the wheel still turns,
barely not touching the pads, hold the barrel
and tighten the locknut again towards the
brake lever housing.Take care that the barrel’s
slot points downwards to prevent moisture
from entering.
Page 36
HP
Velotechnik
34
Brakes
Mechanical disc brakes
To readjust the brake pads you have to use the
big red knobs on each side of the brake
caliper. Adjust the inner and the outer pad
evenly. In case you are not sure, have this adjustment work done by a qualified bike mechanic.
Check your brake pads frequently as explained
in the manual supplied by the brake manufacturer.Worn brake pads, oily or damaged pads
must be replaced immediately by a qualified
bike mechanic.
Hydr
aulic brakes
MAGURA hydraulic brakes use low viscosity
mineral oil that, contrary to DOT brake liquid
used in cars, does not absorb water.Thus, you
don't have to change the oil. Please read the
M
AGURA manual that comes with the bike.You
will find more detailed maintenance instructions in the manual "Workshop" that is available for download from M
AGURA at
www.magura.com. In case of a damaged hose
or any leakage of oil always consult a qualified
technician in a bike shop.
Hydraulic rim brak
es
To compensate the wear of the brake pads
there is a turning knob at the brake lever.Turn
this knob counterclockwise to move the pads
closer to the rim.As soon as the knob can’t be
turned any more the brake pads have to be replaced. Before you change the pads turn the
knob clockwise as far as possible, back to the
initial position.
Hydr
aulic disc brakes
MAGURA disc brakes feature a fully automatic
pad wear adjustment. Brake pads are subject
to wear, therefore regularly check the thickness of your brake pads and replace them, if
necessary.The minimum thickness of the brake
pad incl. metal backing is 2.5 mm.
Caution! Never activate the brake lever
without the brake pads in place or with the
wheel dismounted.When you transport the
bicycle without wheels always use the transport clips delivered with your bike or put a
piece of cardboard in the brake caliper to
replace the disc. Carefully separate brake
pads that have moved together with a
screwdriver.
Danger! All maintenance work on the hydraulic system of your brakes may only be
carried out by a qualified technician. In case
these works are carried out without the required knowledge and skills the brake system might fail which can lead to a serious
crash.
Caution! Damaged cables where single
wires stick out have to be exchanged immediately. Otherwise your brake system may
fail - danger! Please take care that the cable
ends are always protected with a cap.
Always keep the cables shortly trimmed.
Leaving too much cable extending past the
cable anchor can result in the cable catching
in the rotor or wheel, which could then be
pulled in the calliper, causing the wheel to
lock up.
Page 37
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
Adjusting the gear indexing for the
DualDrive hub gear
Turn the left twist grip for the hub gear to the
standard mode "2".
At the right side at the rear axle there is the
click box for the hub gear. In the transparent
window you see a yellow indicator.Adjust this
indicator in line with the mark at the click box
by turning the adjustment screw where the cable goes into the box.
All moving parts of the gear system are affected by wear. Cleaning and lubricating these
parts frequently can prolong the life of these
parts, however they will have to be replaced
once worn out.
The cables have to be checked, cleaned and
serviced regularly. Expect more wear and corrosion when the bike is often parked outside
in bad weather conditions.
35
Gear system
Please read the manual of the gear system manufacturer carefully before working on the
gear system.
Your dealer will adjust your derailleur gearing
system carefully before handing over the trike.
But during the first 300 kilometres (186 miles)
of riding the cables can stretch, making the
gear indexing imprecise.The chain then climbs
only hesitantly onto the next sprocket.
Adjusting the gear inde
xing for the derail-
leur gear
Adjust the barrel adjuster where the gear cable goes into right twist grip or the derailleur.
Do it in small steps of half a turn.
Check after each adjustment whether the
chain moves smoothly up to the next larger
sprocket.To do this, either turn the cranks by
hand or ride the bike.
When the chain climbs up easily, you need to
check that it still goes down easily onto the
smallest sprocket. If necessary turn the barrel
adjuster a little more and then try shifting gears again.
Gear system
Danger! If the chain shifts over the smallest
or the biggest sprocket you have to readjust
the end-limit adjusters of the rear derailleur.
Incorrect adjustment can lead to the chain
coming off, getting stuck or damaging the
spokes, which may result in serious falls.The
adjustment of the end-limit adjusters is a job
for the professional cycle mechanic.
Danger! If the bike falls over, the derailleur
or its mounting can be bent so that the movement range of the derailleur changes.
Check the movement range and have it readjusted by your bicycle mechanic, if necessary.
Caution! Damaged cables that show for
example single wires have to be changed
immediately. Otherwise they may damage
your gear system.Take care that the ends
of the cables are protected with fitting
caps.
Page 38
HP
Velotechnik
36
Chain
The chain is a wearing part that has to be lubricated regularly and to be changed at signs
of excessive wear and tear.
Lubricating the chain
Diligent lubrication is important.The chain of
your Spirit is approximately 2.5 times longer
than a standard bicycle chain (approx. 2.9 m,
119 inch). But it also lasts longer since a chain
only wears while bending at the sprockets and
the chain rings.
Use a good chain oil that won't leave a sticky
film on the chain.The chain oil must not contain any aggressive chemical substances that
might affect the surface of the chain tube.
Specialist stores sell biodegradable lubricants.
HP V
ELOTECHNIK recommends a DryLube-type
lubricant.This lubricant is purely based on
PTFE (Teflon) that keeps the chain clean and
dry.This way dirt simply falls off and the tubes
always stay clean.
It is important that you clean the chain with a
cloth before lubricating. Otherwise the fresh
oil washes the dirt that clings to the chain into
the gaps and the bushings where the dirt causes heavy wear.
Do not use any solvents to clean the chain!
The solvent washes the oil off the bearing
parts, stays there and dilutes the fresh oil so
that a sufficient lubrication is not guaranteed. If
you have treated the chain with a solvent you
will have to heat it up with a hot air gun or
boil it in chain grease.
An effective protection against corrosion is
crucial for a long chain life. Some minutes after
you have oiled the chain rub it with a cloth to
remove superfluous oil from the outer surface.
Wax the chain thoroughly with a wax spray.
The wax keeps off water, protects from corrosion and makes dirt fall off easily.
If the chain has become wet after riding in the
rain you should put your bicycle in a dry and
heated room, and turn the crank every day to
move the chain until it is dry again. Otherwise
it is difficult for the moisture in the chain tubes to evaporate which may lead to corrosion
at the chain.
Chain
Danger! Take care not to pour any oil on
the brake discs or the tires.The brake system could fail or the tires could slip away
suddenly.The oil affects the rubber of your
tires and could damage them.While lubricating cover the surrounding area.
Page 39
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
37
Changing the chain
The chain is one of the parts of the bike that
will wear out.This shows in a stretching of the
chain.Worn out chains do not fit the sprockets
and the chain ring any more and wear them
away very quickly.
Check the chain regularly for lengthening. For
this purpose try to remove the chain from the
chain ring.The chain may come off to a maximum of 5 mm (0,2 inch). For a more precise
reading you can buy a chain measurement gauge in your bike shop that you simply put into
the chain.
Only use chains that are suitable for the gear
system of your bike. Otherwise a precise gear
shifting is not guaranteed any more. Please
consult your dealer on this topic. He will also
assist you in checking your sprockets and chain
rings.A new chain does not fit a worn sprokket or chain ring.We recommend chains from
SRAM (former S
ACHS/SEDIS) with rounded ed-
ges.They also shift gears very well.
HP V
ELOTECHNIK delivers spare chains by the
meter via your dealer. For this purpose please
indicate the exact length of your chain or order it a little bit longer if you want to be sure
it fits.You will need approx. 2,9 m (115 inch) of
chain.
The chain length has to be fitted so that the
arm of the derailleur is not fully stretched
when you shift onto the the big rear sprocket.
The derailleur must be able to compensate a
tightening of the chain by 4 cm. Please see also
the manual of the derailleur manufacturer on
the choice of the correct chain length.
See that the joining link is not bigger in size
than the other chain links to avoid irregular
chain sounds.We recommend the joining links
by SRAM (power links). Every time you change
the chain you also have to mount a new power link.
Make sure that any chain links in the chain are
not stiff, as this can cause some annoying and
not obvious problems with the gear system.
Make sure that you have not twisted the chain
180 degrees before joining it back together.
Caution! When you change the chain take
care that the new chain does not show any
sharp edges or burrs.Very thin racing chains
are also not suitable since they wear the
chain tubes and the chain roller much faster.
Caution! The chain has to be closed with a
special joining link or a chain riveting tool
that expands the ends of the rivet while riveting (ROHLOFF revolver).A poorly joined
chain may break, you can come off the pedals and fall. If you are in doubt please have
adjustments of the chain length or the changing of the chain be done by your bicycle
mechanic.
Page 40
HP
Velotechnik
38
Chain tubes
The chain protection tubes are made of a long
lasting plastic that features very low friction,
slow wear and good noise damping.The tubes
protect your clothes against the chain oil as
well as the chain against dirt from the road.
The tubes are attached to the frame with a
flexible belt and zip ties.
The tubes are worn by the chain and have to
be cut at the ends and expanded again (or exchanged) after 3.000-5.000 km (1600-2700 miles) approximately, depending on the chain type and the overall riding condition.You can extend this maintenance interval by turning the
tubes by a quarter turn from time to time so
that they do not keep wearing out in the same
place.
The intensity of the wear depends mainly on
the chain type. Please see also the instructions
on "Chain" on page 36.
In order to perform any work at the chain tube you'll have to open the chain and finally close it again. Please see the instructions on
"Chain" on page 36.
Expanding the tube ends
The ends of the tubes are expanded like a
trumpet so that the chain can enter smoothly
without friction and without making noises.
When the ends are worn out you can renew
them by expanding them again. Remove the
chain by opening the power link or open it
with a special chain riveting tool. Cut the worn
part of the tube exactly perpendicular with a
sharp knife.
Heat the last 5-10 mm at the end of the tube
with a gas burner, a hot air gun, or a candle
and turn it permanently until the colour of the
utmost edge turns from a dull black to a shiny
black. Now you expand the end with a proper
tool, e.g. the rounded grip of a screwdriver.
Quench the expanded end immediately with
cold water.
Take care that the tubes don't catch fire. At
any rate work in a place with sufficient ventilation.
If the tube is too short after you have cut it so
that there is not enough protection anymore it
has to be replaced.You can buy spare tubes either as uncut tubes or already cut into the
correct length, complete with retention spring
from your specialist dealer.
Chain tubes
Caution! Take care that the chain tubes
keep at least a 5 cm (2 inch) distance to the
rear derailleur or sprockets and front chainring when the chain is stretched to the maximum, and that the tubes are well fastened.
If necessary you will have to shorten the tubes. If the end of a chain tube gets into the
rotating parts of the drivetrain the drivetrain
can be blocked and the chain tubes may be
destroyed.
Page 41
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
39
Changing single tubes
Open the chain as described above and remove it entirely from the tube you want to change.
Use a side cutter or sharp knife to cut the zip
tie that holds the tube in the belt. Remove the
old tube from the belt loop.
Put the new tube through the belt loop. Put a
zip tie through the ring in the belt and around
the tube so that the lock of the zip tie lies hidden in the belt. Move the chain tube so that
there are at least 5 cm to both the biggest rear sprocket and the chain ring cover at the
front.Tighten the zip tie firmly and cut off the
spare end.
Thread the chain again through the tube.Take
care not to twist the chain. Close the chain
again as described above.
Page 42
HP
Velotechnik
40
Suspension Fork
Please clean the dust boot and the tube below
every four weeks. Lubricate the free part of
the slider tube after cleaning with a thin layer
of grease or treat it with wax spray.Take care
that the dust boot fits well. Otherwise, dirt
and water can lead to corrosion.
Always check the correct position of brakes
and wheels after you have worked on the suspension fork as described in the respective
chapters.
Please ask your local dealer for assistance in
case you don’t feel safe in performing these
works.
The inner fork steerer tube is tightly fitted and
glued in the fork crown, never try to tear this
connection apart or to change the tube.
Never add threads to the steerer tube - danger of breaking! You can only use the fork with
A-Head type headsets.
A new suspension fork needs a break-in period of at least 300 km (160 miles) for the sliding surfaces to smoothen. At the beginning,
the suspension compresses only under heavier
shocks. In order to judge the response or the
play properly you should first wait for the end
of the break-in period.
Play in the direction of driving
If you notice at your bicycle that the handlebar-fork-unity has play in the direction of driving, this may have several causes.
First please check if the headset is mounted
correctly and adjusted without play. Please refer to the instructions on page 43.
When you pull the front brake and rock the
bicycle a little bit back and forth while sitting
on it you may notice a play in the disc brake
system.
The brake pads have a little play in their guides
that gives a jolt while rocking. In any case
check whether the caliper is tightly and correctly screwed to the frame and whether the
brake disc is tightly connected to the hub.
The suspension fork itself also may have a
slight normal play in the direction of driving
that you'll notice while rocking back and forth
with the front brake pulled. Similar to conventional telescopic forks this is immanent in the
construction and does not cause problems
while riding.
Suspension fork
Danger! When working on the suspension
fork with your hands or tools on the fork,
never load the bicycle i.e. by somebody
propping up on the seat. Deflection of the
front wheel may bruise your hands.
Danger! Please take care that the air suspension cartridge never protrudes more
than 13-23 mm above the fork’s steering tube. Else the cartridge may become loose.
This may lead to uncontrollable situations
and serious injury.
Page 43
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
41
The linear ball bearing suffers from wear
which depends on the frequency of use, dirt
and lubrication.
If the linear ball bearing is so worn that the
play makes the steering movements unprecise
or produces unusual noise, the fork needs to
be replaced. Please contact your dealer for this
service.
Page 44
HP
Velotechnik
42
Suspension fork
(room for notes)
Page 45
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
43
Headset
Loosen the screw of the clamp by one or two
turns.
Carefully fasten the end cap with an hex key 6
a little bit more.
In order to check whether everything works
smoothly lift the bicycle at the frame so that
the front wheel moves freely above the
ground. Lean the frame a little sideways. Now
the handlebar should immediately turn
smoothly.When you hold the frame steady and
touch the handlebar lightly it should turn
smoothly, without jolts, from its middle position.
If the bearing is adjusted too tight, unscrew
the end cap a little bit. If necessary, you can
loosen the headset with a gentle blow of a
rubber hammer. Repeat the adjustment.
Adjusting the headset with mounted adjustment bushing.
Headset
The front fork is pivoted in the frame by the
steering head bearing, also called headset.
Due to heavy shocks caused by very uneven
roads, the headset may become loose.
Adjusting the play
The steering head bearing has to be adjusted
so that the fork turns easily with the front
wheel without having play.
To check the bearing play pull the front brake
and grasp with the other hand the upper steering head bearing.Then rock your bicycle hard
back and forth. If the steering head bearing has
play the upper housing distinctly shifts with respect to the lower.
To adjust the bearing you need the adjustment
tube and the end cap with hex head screw
M6x30 (rigid fork) or the adjustment nut
(Airwings suspension fork) that have come
with your bicycle. (Equipped with the optional
Glideflex folding stem, the stem replaces the
clamp above the headset and there is a long
black spacer between headset and stem.)
Loosen the lower stem clamping screw and remove the whole stem.
Put the adjustment tube on the steerer fork
tube above the clamp. Screw the end cap tightly into the steerer tube.
Caution! Do not ride with a loose headset.
This increases the strain on the fork and the
headset bearing.The headset may be damaged or the fork may break.
Caution! Do not tighten the end cap very
hard. It is only used to adjust the play. If the
headset is adjusted too tight the surface of
the bearings can be damaged.The consequence is a turning with jolts and rest positions.Then, the headset has to be exchanged.
Page 46
HP
Velotechnik
44
After the headset has been adjusted without
play tighten the screw of the clamp with 4-6
Nm.
Remove the end cap and take the adjustment
tube off the steerer tube. Safely deposit these
adjustment tools, best together with this manual.
Remount the stem to the steerer tube. Keep
the front wheel with your legs in place and adjust the handlebars perpendicular to the front
wheel.Adjust the stem’s clamping screw with
14-16 Nm. Check the clamping by trying to
twist the handlebars against the front wheel.
Lubricating the steering head bearing
Once a year the steering head bearing has to
be dismounted, cleaned and lubricated.
Take care of the exact order and position of
the different parts of the bearing.After you have undone the clamping clip you have to readjust the headset as described above. If you are
in doubt have your bicycle mechanic lubricate
the steering head bearing.
Note for Airwings suspension fork
Instead of the end cap with hex headed screw
you have to use the supplied adjustment nut
(wrench size 32).
Headset adjustemnt with folding stem
With the optionally available folding stem, the
stem is clamped directly to the fork’s steerer
tube.There is a black spacer tube between headset and folding stem. No extra clamp is installed.The upper end of the steerer tube is
closed by an end cap (rigid fork) or an adjustment nut with cover cap (Airwings suspension
fork).
After you have adjusted the bearing play as described above check if the stem is adjusted in
a parallel position to the front wheel and tighten the two clamping screws alternately with
8–10 Nm. Check the clamping by trying to
turn the stem against the front wheel.
Headset
Danger! The hex headed screw in the end
cap or the adjustment nut adjust the play of
the steering head bearing only.This screw /
nut does not help to clamp the stem tightly
to the steerer tube. It does not secure it
against turning.Take care that both clamping
screws on the side are tightened as prescribed after you have finished your works
at the stem. Otherwise the stem may turn
while riding and cause an accident.
Caution! Never beat on the air valve of the
Airwings suspension fork.
Page 47
Maintenance and care
HP
Velotechnik
45
Rear suspension element
Changing the springs of the rear suspension element
You can buy the spring for the rear suspension
element in different spring stiffnesses from
your dealer.
We recommend the following spring stiffnesses, depending on the overall weight:
up to 80 kg (183 lbs): 650 lbs./inch
up to 100 kg (230 lbs): 850 lbs./inch
up to 130 kg (286 lbs): 1100 lbs./inch
Spring lengths:
DV22: 70–90 mm (2 3/4 – 3,5 inch)
(Length of the spring element: 150 mm)
In order to change the spring you will have to
remove the upper screw and swing away the
rear frame.
Hold the main frame of your bicycle in a work
stand.
If there is a safety ring at the thread of the suspension element move it to the end so you
can unscrew the adjustment ring completely
and then turn it to the outer position at the
end. Remove the slotted spring retention disc
at the other end.
Loosen the screws of the rear suspension element with two hex keys and push the screw
out of the suspension element’s eye.
Remove the spring from the suspension element and put in the replacement spring. Make
sure that the new spring has the same diameter and length as the old spring and that it lies
safely on the adjustment ring.
Put back the slotted upper spring retention
disc on the piston rod. If necessary, compress
the spring a little bit with a screw driver.The
spring retention disc has to match its seating
at the rear end of the suspension element.
Secure the spring by tightening the adjustment
ring until the spring doesn't have any play anymore. Push the safety ring back into the slot
on the thread.
Move the rear swing arm back up and connect
the rear end of the suspension element with
the rear swing arm with the bolt. Lubricate the
bolt thoroughly. Secure the screws of the suspension element with threadlocker medium
and tighten the screw with 6-8 Nm.
Readjust the spring preload as described on
page 19.
Danger! If the bicycle does not stand on
the ground while undoing the screws of the
suspension element, the rear swing arm may
come down uncontrolled afterwards and
hurt you seriously. In addition to this, the cables of the gear system and the brakes may
overstretch or bend and you would have to
replace them. Ensure that the rear swing
arm comes down in a controlled and gentle
fashion by putting up a solid string or cable
tie between the main frame and the rear
swing arm.
Danger! When the bicycle is standing on
the ground, the frame and the swing arm come up against each other. Please make sure
that this happens in a controlled and gentle
fashion. Put a cloth between the contact points.Take care not to squash your fingers.
Page 48
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Velotechnik
46
Rear suspension element
Cleaning the suspension element
Do clean the suspension element, especially
the polished piston rod, if it is dirty. Remaining
dirt can damage the seals of the hydraulic system and so shorten its life considerably. When
you often use dirty roads you can protect the
suspension element from dirt with an elastic
cover that you can buy at your local dealer.
From time to time grease the thread for the
spring pre-load with a drop of acid-free oil.
Thus, you can always turn the adjustment ring
easily by hand. Once a year you have to grease
the pivots of the suspension element. For that
purpose dismount the suspension element as
described under on page 23.
Remove the plastic spacer and pull the metal
tube off the bushing. Lubricate the bushing and
the tubes with grease. Finally remount the suspension element.
Hydraulic dampers are effected by wear and
tear through normal use. It depends on the
usage of the bike, the amount of dirt on it and
the maintenance and lubrication how long it
lasts.After 3000 km the damper must receive
an inspection by a trained mechanic, worn out
parts or the hydraulic cartridge can be replaced then. Due to wear of the seals oil can leak
drom the damper or the internal oil can become foamy.This may lead to some noise when
the damper is working.This noise does not effect the function of the damper. Only if there
is no obvious damping after the first 5 mm of
travel, the damper should be replaced.
Please also note the maintenance instructions
of the damper manufacturer provided with
your bike.
The bushings of the rear spring element need to be lubricated
once a year.
Page 49
Maintenance and care
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Velotechnik
47
The bushings are exchangeable. For that purpose you will have to dismount the rear swing
arm and send it together with the axle via
your specialist dealer to HP V
ELOTECHNIK
.After
having been mounted the bushings are machined to adjust them.
Unscrewing the axle bolts
In order to mount the rear rack or the
lowrider the axle bolts have to be unscrewed.
We recommend you to leave one screw in
place each to prevent the axle from turning.
In case the rear swing arm is to be dismounted completely you can prevent the axle from
turning by inserting a thin metal rod in the
hole of the axle through the hole in the rear
swing arm under the axle.
Swing arm pivot
Swing arm pivot
The rear swing arm pivot comes with maintenance-free bushings.They have a self lubricating system with Teflon particles.The bushings
sustain a very high load and they show almost
no wear.
In case you notice play or a creaking noise at
the rear swing arm please check the two
screws that keep the axle in the frame.They
will have to be secured with Loctite.
Tightening torques:
Mushroom head screw M8x25: 14-16 Nm
Danger! If the screws of the axle are not
tight enough this leads to play and noises
when the spring compresses. In extreme
cases the swing arm may come loose which
leads to a serious fall. If the screws are too
tight the thread of the axle may tear out or
the screw may be damaged.
Caution! There has to be a big washer
between the main frame and the end of the
bushing, else the busing is not able to function without play and the frame will be damaged.
You can prevent the axle from turning by inserting a thin metal
rod in the hole of the axle.
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Velotechnik
48
The seat
The seat cover of the back rest stretches under load. On the backside, there are four belts
to tighten the back rest again.Try different tensions; often, a somewhat lower tension appears
to be more comfortable.
Clean the back rest with lukewarm water and
a sponge. Do not put it in the washing machine, since the net material with the reflective
strip will be damaged.
The seat cushion suffers from wear and tear. It
can be damaged by sharp items or by chemical
cleansing agents.When the surface is worn or
damaged you will have to replace the cushion.
Otherwise, dampness could get into the seat
and affect the wooden underside, which would
endanger its solidity.
If you dismount the quick releases of the seat
fastening, take care to remount the transparent plastic bushings between the sliders when
you put them back.These bushings work as
compression springs that push the sliders away
from the clamping rail after you have opened
the quick releases. Only that way can the seat
be smoothly moved on the rail.
At the front quick release there are on both
sides knurled washers between the quick
release and the aluminum fittings.These washers provide the clamping force necessary for
the adjustment of the angle of the back rest.
The knurling might affect the coating in the
clamping area slightly but it does not interfere
with the functionality.
The seat
Clean the back rest and the zipper with lukewarm water.
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Maintenance and care
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Velotechnik
49
Water bottle cage
You can mount a water bottle cage at the
main frame. For that purpose, there are threaded inserts M5 at the top of the frame.
You can mount another water bottle cage
using the threaded bosses at the stem.
Before buying a water bottle cage please try
whether it fits your Spirit and accesses easily.
Another useful alternative to water bottles are
systems with a "water bag" and a drinking hose, e.g. from Source or Camelbag.You can simply strap them behind the seat, onto the rear
rack or to your pannier.
Water bottle cage
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Velotechnik
Check whether the suspension can still be fully
compressed with the mounted mudguards.The
mudguards, stays and screws must not touch
other parts under maximum compression.
50
Mudguards
Mudguards
At bicycles with suspension, mudguards are
exposed to very strong vibrations and may
break through wear. Please check the stays of
the mudguard regularly for their position and
check the mudguards for cracks or deformations. Immediately replace damaged mudguards.
In order to prevent falls you have to fasten the
stays of the front mudguard with a security
clip that opens under pressure.When the clip
has opened once please replace it with a new
one.
After you have performed service work or replaced mudguards check if the wheels turn
freely. Between mudguard and wheel there has
to be a distance of at least 7 mm (0,2 inch).
Caution! You must not mount additional
parts like rear lights or reflectors to the
mudguards since they may break then.
Danger! If branches or other obstacles get
caught in the wheels while riding and are
moved around they may drag the mudguards
along.The mudguard can possibly fold up
between frame and tire and hence block the
wheel, which may lead to a serious fall. If you
hear any unfamiliar noises while riding stop
immediately and remove anything that might
cling to the mudguards or the wheels.
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Maintenance and care
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51
Wheels
The correct air pressure is decisive for
smooth running and a good protection against
punctures.The maximum pressure is printed
on the side of your tire.If your Spirit is fully
suspended you can always go for the maximum
pressure.You might find an indication of the
minimum required pressure on the side of the
tire as well.
Since the tubes in the tires gradually loose air
you should check the air pressure before every ride.
The tubes come with Presta valves (also called
french valves).They are very airtight and easy
to pump up.
To do so, first screw off the valve cap. Now
you see a small threaded rod with a knurled
nut that comes out of the valve. Loosen the
knurled nut as far as it is possible.
To pump up the tire and check the pressure
you need a pump with a gauge, preferably a
solidr floor pump. Put the knob of the pump
on the valve, push it completely on the valve
and then retract it a little bit. Now you can
pump up your tire easily.
After you have pumped up the tire to the
maximum pressure pull off the pump knob.
Secure the valve by turning the knurled nut on
the threaded rod properly against the valve
body. Finally put on the valve cap again.
When you exchange tires please note the maximum width limit of 54 mm (approx. 2"). We
recommend tires that are 40-54 mm (1,6 - 2
inch) wide. At the front and at the rear wheel
you have to use ISO size 406 (20"). The tire
width possible at your bicycle depends on the
size of your rims. Please ask your local dealer.
Wheels
Before pumping up the tire, you have to unscrew the little
knurled nut on the valve.
Danger! Never pump up your tires beyond
the maximum pressure.The tire may burst
while riding or come off the rim, which may
result in a serious fall.
Danger! Check your tires for damage on a
regular basis.You should exchange tires with
worn threads or damaged sidewalls.
Damaged rim tapes have to be exchanged
immediately. Damages at the tires may lead
to a sudden burst of the tire and thus result
in a serious fall.
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After you have exchanged the tires please
check if the wheels turn freely and check the
minimum distance between mudguards and
frame.
Due to the small wheel diameter even small
tolerances in rim or tire diameter can cause
visible misalignement of the tire on the rim.
Pump up the tire to only 1 bar first, then align
the tire by twisting it with your hands. Do not
orientate yourself at the attached reflex strip,
this strip can be slightly misaligned due to the
production process.
To remove the rear wheel shift the rear derailleur to the fastest gear / smalles sprocket.Turn
the twist grip of the hub gear to the uphill
mode "1". Press the locking mechanism of the
click box. Remove the click box. Now you can
loosen the axle nuts and dismount the rear
wheel (see the DualDrive manual).
Cleaning and conservation
The frame of the Spirit has a high quality and
environmentally friendly powder coating.The
surfaces of the aluminum parts are either polished or anodized.
To keep the surfaces brilliant over many years
and to protect them effectively against corrosion the bicycle has to be cleaned from dirt
and then conserved.
Dried sweat but also environmental influences
such as air pollution, dirt on the roads and
especially grit affect the parts, and not only
may this cause flaws but also serious structural
damage of the parts through corrosion.
In contrast to a widespread belief particularly
the "non-rusting" aluminum is dramatically affected by grit! This kind of damage may not be
visible in the beginning but it leads to a serious
danger when the part breaks.
Do clean and conserve your bicycle diligently!
The best things to clean your bicycle with are
warm water and a soft cloth. If your bicycle is
very dirty first take a wet sponge to soften the
dirt and then remove it. In case of bad grease
or oil stains you should use a special cleansing
agent for bicycles in addition.
Wheels, Cleaning
Danger! Take care that your spokes are al-
ways in perfect condition and the spoke tension is balanced. Do not ride with wheels
that run untrue or wheels with loose or
missing spokes.These faults may lead to a
total failure of the wheel while braking and
result in a serious fall!
Caution! To true up the wheels you need
special skills, please have this work done by
an experienced bicycle mechanic.
Caution! Do not use any cleansing agents
that scrub or are chemically aggressive since
they affect the paintwork. Before using any
cleansing agent please test it at a part of
your bicycle that is not immediately visible.
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Maintenance and care
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53
While cleaning your bicycle check it for any
cracks, scratches, deformations, damaged parts,
loose spokes etc. If you are in doubt please
consult your local bike shop.
In case of small scratches at the surface of the
powder coating of the frame or the surface of
the seat you can simply polish them away.You
can buy a special polishing agent for epoxy resins at a specialist dealer for boat building. Do
not use a polish for metal!
After you have cleaned the bicycle, dry it and
treat the paintwork and the metal surfaces
with wax.You can purchase this wax from your
local bike dealer as a convenient spray.
The wax passes moisture and flows into tiny
gaps and pores.After some minutes the solvent evaporates and leaves a dull and glutinous
film. Now polish the waxed parts of your bicycle with a soft cloth to make it real shiny.
Do not only wax the frame but also the spokes, hubs, screws and nuts etc.You can also
conserve the chain with a wax spray after lubricating it, see also the chapter on "Chain",
page 36.
The frame has small holes for ventilation that
prevent condensation in the frame.These drilling holes must not be sealed. However, moisture may enter the frame through the drilling
holes.Therefore protect the inside of your frame by applying wax spray through the holes.
Protect the parts where cables or chain tubes
may scratch the frame with a layer of tape.You
can buy extra strong transparent tape at your
do-it-yourself-store.That way you avoid scratches in the powder coating and coating coming off.
Caution! Do not use any high-pressure cleaner.The strong jet of water goes through
the seals of the bearings, blows away the lube and causes corrosion of the bearing parts
and the chain. In addition to this it may damage stickers.
Caution! Any damage of the paintwork has
to be cleaned from rust and repaired immediately, else the damaged part in the frame
gives way to corrosion that nests in the surrounding paintwork.This can result in damage of the frame.
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54
Storing the bicycle
Before storing your bicycle over a longer period of time, e.g. over winter, please take care of
the following steps:
● Clean your bicycle and protect it from
corrosion as described in the chapter on
"Cleaning".
● Store your bicycle in a dry and warm place.
● Avoid direct sun and storage close to the
heating since it affects the rubber of your
tires.
● Choose the uphill mode "1" at the hub gear
and the smallest sprocket at the rear
derailleur.That way the cables are in the
most relaxed position.
● The tubes of your tires loose air when
standing over a longer period of time. If the
bicycle then rests on flat tires the tires may
be damaged.Therefore hang up your bicycle
or check the air pressure regularly.
The winter months are a convenient period of
time for the annual service since then you won't have to wait long for an appointment. Many
dealers offer special prices for the winter
check.
Screws and Bolts
Screws gradually settle in and hence they can
come loose.Therefore check the screws and
bolts regularly if they are tightened appropriately with a torque wrench.
In the following table you will find the prescribed tightening torques, they refer to
greased screws!
The grease also prevents your screws from
seizing in their threads so that they won't unscrew anymore. In particular, screws made of
stainless steel are susceptible to this and
therefore have always to be put in with grease.
Use high quality acid free grease, if possible a
lubricant with added solid particles like Teflon
or MoS
2.Their ingredients still work properly
after the thinner grease has been removed
from the contact surfaces.
Alternatively you can use L
OCTITE screw locker
that you apply to the screw before you put it
into the thread.
Always check the screws very diligently for
signs of corrosion. Rust at the screw heads
may also lead to the screw seizing in the
thread.When the metallic and shiny coating of
galvanised screws comes off and discloses dull,
gray-brown steel you have to exchange the
screw.
When you exchange screws please only use
screws of the same type. Screws come in different strength classes. Please only use galvanised screws of the same type and strength,
corresponding to the German strength class
8.8 or stainless steel screws grade A2-70,
when not given any other recommendation. If
you are in doubt please ask your specialist
dealer.
Storing the bike, Screws and bolts
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Maintenance and care
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Velotechnik
55
Tightening torques for screws
The values indicated are meant for a friction value µ=0,125 (greased threads and screw heads). They only refer to the indicated parts. Please do always follow the values given in the manuals of the parts manufacturers, since the following values may not be the latest due to changes in the product line!
Part connection screw tightening torque
brakes: mechanical
- brake lever handlebar/lever M6 key size 5 4 Nm
- brake caliper caliper/frame M6 5–7 Nm
cable clamping 6–8 Nm
brakes: hydraulic
- brake lever handlebar/lever M6 key size 5 4 Nm
- brake caliper caliper/frame M6 key size 5 7–9 Nm
- brake disc disc/hub M5 Torx T25 5–6 Nm
- brake hose hose/lever key size 8 4 Nm
gear click box cable clamping 4–5 Nm
dynamo dynamo/frame M6 key size 5 6–8 Nm
suspension element element/frame M6 key size 4 6–8 Nm
rear swing arm axle M8 key size 6 14–16 Nm
b.b. set cartridge/frame 50–60 Nm
crank crank/axle key size 8 35 Nm
chain ring screws key size 5 8–11 Nm
wheel quick release 9–12 Nm
lowrider rack lowrider/main frame M5 key size 4 4–6 Nm
axle M8 key size 6 14–16 Nm
hub cassette/ lock ring 38–42 Nm
pedal pedal/crank key size 15 35–40 Nm
shifter lever lever/handlebar key size 3 2–2,5 Nm
derailleur derailleur/frame key size 5 8–10 Nm
cable clamping key size 5 4–6 Nm
mudguard stay/frame M5 key size 4 4–6 Nm
seat seat cushion/seat mounts M5 key size 4 4–6 Nm
quick release 12–15 Nm
stem fork/stem M8 key size 6 14–16 Nm
telescopic stem M8 key size 6 14–16 Nm
stem/handlebar M6 key size 5 6–8 Nm
folding stem fork/stem M6 key size 5 6–8 Nm
pull rod DualDrive pull rod/hube 0,3 Nm
Page 58
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56
Warranty
Your dealer has to fully set up and adjust your
Spirit, so that safe function is guaranteed.The
dealer has to make a final safety check and
carry out a test ride.
Your cycle dealer is obliged by law to ensure,
among other things, that your bicycle is not affected by defects which materially diminish its
value of suitability for the described purpose.
The exact details will vary according to your
country. In Germany, this liability ends two
years after purchase.
In addition to this, HP V
ELOTECHNIK offers a 10
year warranty on the frame and the swing arm
pivot of the Spirit against damage through original material or manufacturing defects.This
warranty applies only to the original purchaser.
Damage trough wear and tear, corrosion or
damage at the surface coating is excluded.
Damage through inappropriate use, inadequate
care and maintenance, falls, crashes, overloading through excess weight, incorrect assembly
or modifications to the bike is also not covered.The onus rests with the purchaser.The
warranty is void if any of the instructions in
this manual are neglected.
The warranty starts with the date of purchase
(receipt of the bike dealer) of a new bicycle.
The warranty is processed via the bike dealer
who ordered the bicycle from us.
We process our services preferably through
your nearest HP V
ELOTECHNIK dealer but also
through your local bike dealer.
In case of damage the specialist dealer has to
send the damaged frame to us so that we can
check it, if asked to do so by us.We do not take over any secondary costs.
In case of warranty we will cover the costs for
the transportation within the usual limits
(postal service). In case of warranty we will replace the damaged part with a part of our
choice or a new part equal to the old one
(warranty obligation).
In the event of any work that falls under warranty the usual warranty period will not be
prolonged and no new warranty will be given.
If HP V
ELOTECHNIK refuses to count a repair as
warranty case we will only carry out a repair
with costs after having talked to the customer
or his representative, the respective dealer.
It is necessary for the purchaser to fill in the
enclosed warranty registration form to benefit
from the extended warranty.This filled in form
has to be sent to HP V
ELOTECHNIK within 4
weeks after the purchase.
The warranty is only valid when the warranty
pass at the end of this manual has been filled
in when you received your bike, and when every inspection listed has been done and recorded by your bicycle mechanic within the described time schedule.
In the event of any warranty the warranty pass
together with a copy of the proof of purchase
has to be sent to HP V
ELOTECHNIK through
your dealer.
This warranty does not have any influence on
the rights of the purchaser according to his
statutory rights.
Warranty
Page 59
HP
Velotechnik
Warranty pass
57
Warranty Pass
With the HP VELOTECHNIK Warranty Pass you
can assure the safety and proper function of
your Spirit for many years.
Like any other vehicle your bicycle has to be
checked for safe operation before riding.Your
bicycle has to be maintained at regular intervals, at least once a year you will have to take
your bicyle to a qualified bicycle mechanic for
a thorough check.
The service plan on the next page shows you
our mandatory maintenance and service
works.
If you wish you can set an upper price limit for
the service with your bicycle mechanic. If the
necessary works exceed this limit you will be
informed in advance.
Our tip:
You can avoid seasonal waiting periods in
spring and summer when you have your annual
inspection done in the quiet months from
October to January. Many bike shops then have special winter check offers.At any rate do
make an appointment. Clean your bicycle prior
to the inspection since then many of the
checks by sight can be done quickly and at low
cost.
Please have your specialist dealer record every
inspection work in the Warranty Pass.This is a
requirement for the validity of our expanded
warranty that exceeds the legal warranty.
Warranty pass
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Warranty pass
58
HP
Velotechnik
Service Plan
part work
lighting system check functionality
adjust headlamp and rear light, check cable contacts
clean reflectors, replace missing reflectors
tires check air pressure
check tread and sidewalls
brakes check for damages / brake test whilst standing still
check cables / hydraulic system for leaking oil
check rigid feel brake lever blades when pads reach rotor
check brake pads for wear
suspension element clean and oil thread
lubricate bushes
replace worn out parts / hydraulic cartridge
suspension fork check dust boot and correct position
lubricate
check fork play, adjust if necessary
rear swing arm check function and bearing play, tighten axle screws
bottom bracket bearings check bearing play
rims check allignment, check for cracks, dents, wear
chain grease and check for wear
chain tube check for wear
expand ends or exchange tubes
crank check, tighten
paintwork conserve and repair
wheels check alignement and spoke tension
handlebar check for damage / bends
headset check bearings, grease
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Velotechnik
Warranty pass
59
see page before every ride monthly annually note
31
●
●
●
51 ●
●
28 / 33 ●
●
●
●
45 ●
●
▲
40
●
▲ every 1000 km
●
47 ▲
▲
51 ▲
36
●
38 ●
●
▲
52
●
51 ●
13 ▲
44 ▲
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Warranty pass
This service plan is intended to give you a
rough overview over the required maintenance and service works. In no case it can replace the detailed instructions in this manual!
You can perform service works marked with a
“
●” when you have the required skills and
tools as for example a torque wrench.
When you discover any defects while checking
your bicycle they have to be repaired immediately. If you are in doubt please consult your
local bike shop.
Works marked with a "▲" should only be carried out by a trained bicycle mechanic.
At the annual service the bicycle mechanic has
to carry out all works listed as well as all services and maintenance works necessary according to the momentary technical standard and
professional knowledge.
Please follow at any rate the manuals of the
parts manufacturers.
Service plan (continued)
parts work
hubs check bearing play and brake discs mount
pedal check bearing play, check binding mechanism
frame check clamping of the front boom
clean and conserve
check for damage, damage to paintwork
quick release check correct closing
derailleur check for movement and function
clean and lubricate
screws and nuts check and tighten
mudguards check for damage and correct position
valves check for correct position and air tightness
stem check clamping
check clamping screws
cables dismount, lubricate, replace if necessary
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61
see page before every ride monthly annually note
▲
▲
52
●
●
7 ●
35 ●
●
54 ●
50 ●
51 ●
13 ●
▲
35 ▲
The service intervals given in this Warranty
Pass refer to an average use and a riding performance of 3.000 km per year.
When you ride more kilometers per year or
often ride under bad conditions like rain, grit
or other dirty factors it is necessary to have
shorter maintenance intervals.
In order to measure your riding performance
we recommend you to use a bicycle computer.
The regular service maintains the safe operation and the value of your bicycle. Not only
does the completed Warranty Pass record the
maintenance works for the validation of your
warranty but also does it proove the care and
the value of your bicycle - a good thing to
have when you are going to sell your Spirit
one day.
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Velotechnik
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Warranty pass
service at delivery
At the delivery of a new Spirit
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
(When you assemble a frame kit please list
the components on an extra sheet and attach it to this Warranty Pass.)
Your personal Warranty Pass
name:
adress:
telephone:
frame no:
(close to the bottom bracket)
I have received the bicycle in good condition. adjusted to my size and performed a test ride.
I have been informed about the correct use of
the recumbent, the components like derailleur
and especially steering and brakes as well as the
necessity of regular service and maintenance. I
will read the manuals prior to the first ride and
have all future users read them too. I am aware
that I need to send the warranty registration form
to HP Velotechnik within four weeks of the purchase to qualify for the extended warranty.
Date:
Customer’s Signature:
Dealer’s Signature an Stamp::
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2nd service
No later than 3000 kilometers or one year after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
1st service
No later than 300 kilometers or 2 months after
the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
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Velotechnik
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Warranty pass
4th service
No later than 9000 kilometers or three years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
3rd service
No later than 6000 kilometers or two years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
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6th service
No later than 15000 kilometers or five years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
5th service
No later than 12000 kilometers or four years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
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HP
Velotechnik
7th service
No later than 18000 kilometers or six years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
8th service
No later than 21000 kilometers or seven years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
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Warranty pass
9th service
No later than 24000 kilometers or eight years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
10th service
No later than 27000 kilometers or nine years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
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HP
Velotechnik
11th service
No later than 30000 kilometers or ten years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
12th service
No later than 33000 kilometers or eleven years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
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Velotechnik
Warranty pass
13th service
No later than 36000 kilometers or twelve years
after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
14th service
No later than 39000 kilometers or thirteen
years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
Page 72
HP Velotechnik ● Paul J. W. Hollants und Dipl.-Ing. Daniel Pulvermüller GbR
Elisabethenstr. 1
● D-65830 Kriftel ● Tel.++49 - 61 92 - 97 99 2-0 ● Fax 91 02 18 ● www.hpvelotechnik.com
2009
HPVelotechnik
NEW
recumbent-
technology
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