HP Velotechnik Speedmachine Operating Instruction and Service Manual

Operating manual and service instructions
NEW
recumbent technology
2011
HPVelotechnik
General safety instructions
Intended use – 3 The first miles – 3 Legal requirements – 3 Load capacity – 4 Carrying luggage – 4 Transport in the car – 5 Do not take kids with you – 5 Trailers – 5 Added parts and accessories – 5 Fairings – 5 Replacement of parts – 6 No alteration of parts – 6 Final assembly – 6 Screws and bolts – 6
Adjusting your new bike
Adjusting the leg length – 7 Adjusting the seat position – 11 Adjusting the handlebars – 13 Adjusting the suspension – 16
Handling instructions
Learning the new riding technique – 24 Wear protective clothing – 25 Use clipless pedals – 25 Slowly increase the strain – 26 Do not ride freehand – 26 How to ride correctly and safely – 26 Quick release levers, Seat – 27 Brakes – 28 Gear system – 30 Light system – 31 Prop stand – 32
Content
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HP
Velotechnik
Maintenance and care
Wear and tear – 33 Brakes – 33 Gear system – 35 Chain – 36 Chain tubes – 38 Chain roller – 40 Suspension fork – 41 Rear suspension element – 46 Swing arm pivot – 48 Seat cushion – 49 Water bottle cage – 50 Mudguards – 51 Wheels – 51 Cleaning and conservation – 52 Storing the bicycle – 54 Screws and bolts – 54 Tightening torques for screws – 55
Warranty Pass
Warranty – 56 Warranty Pass – 57 Service Plan – 58 Proofs of service – 62
Revision August 2011. For latest product infor­mation, please check out our website at www.hpvelotechnik.com. All trademarks be­long to their respective owners.
HP V
ELOTECHNIK
Bleichstrasse 5 65830 Kriftel / Germany Tel. ++49 (0) 61 92 - 97 99 2-0 Fax ++49 (0) 61 92 - 91 02 18
thank you for buying a recumbent bike designed by HP VELOTECHNIK and congratulations on the purchase of your new Speedmachine! With the Speedmachine, a high-quality sports bike, you will enjoy many years of exhilarating riding pleasure.
Your safety and your satisfaction are our main concern. On the following pages, this manual will inform you about important safety issues as well as maintenance and care instructions.
Even if you have many years of experience with bicycles please do take your time to read this manual carefully.Your recumbent bike is designed with the latest bicycle technology by HP V
ELOTECHNIK that partly needs special treatment and care.
In this manual you will find detailed instructions on how to optimize your Speedmachine to meet your demands and riding style as well as your size and weight. In addition to this, we have put together a collection of information on care and mainte­nance as well as special technical advice from our engineers. Important: Please send us the attached warranty registration form for your extended warranty (see page 56.)
This guide helps you to keep your Speedmachine in perfect condition so that you will always have maximum fun, comfort and safety.
Enjoy yourselves and have a great ride!
Paul J.W. Hollants, Dipl.-Ing. Daniel Pulvermüller and the HP V
ELOTECHNIK team
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Introduction
Dear customer,
The manuals of component manufacturers such as the brake manufacturer, the gear sys­tem manufacturer, and the pedal manufacturer also belong to this manual.They give detailed information on operating and maintaining these specific parts. Please read the manuals of the part manufacturers as carefully as this manual. Please provide this manual to any oth­er user of your recumbent before using it.
The maintenance and adjustment of this re­cumbent partly requires special tools and skills. Do only works within your limits and, for the purpose of your own safety, do not go beyond. Should you be uncertain at any point, get in contact with your local dealer.
The instructions in this manual apply only to a completely assembled Speedmachine with standard parts from the series production of HP VELOTECHNIK.
On special demand HP V
ELOTECHNIK delivers
frame kits to put a specialist dealer in a posi­tion to assemble a bicycle individually. In this case the manuals on the operation and mainte­nance of the parts only represent a guideline, please read every manual of every part manu­facturer separately.The specialist dealer is re­sponsible for the expert assembly, please con­tact him for detailed information! A bicycle that has been assembled from a frame kit must always be tested and approved by a qualified bicycle mechanic before your first ride.
Introduction
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Caution! The texts in the grey boxes are particularly important for your safety.Texts that begin with "Danger!" mark an immedi­ate danger for your life and your health. Please do read them carefully.
General safety instructions
Legal requirements
When you ride your bike on the public road it must comply with national legislation and guidelines.These will vary from country to country.
In general, there are minimum standards for brakes, reflectors and lighting systems, as well as usually a general duty to ensure that your vehicle is in roadworthy safe condition.There will also be a duty to ride in a safe and respon­sible manner. If you ride your HP V
ELOTECHNIK
bike in traffic you should be sure to observe all the applicable laws and regulations.
In most countries, including Germany and the UK, two independent braking systems are re­quired. Do not ride with only one brake work­ing!
Please contact your local dealer to find out about your legal obligations.
General safety instructions
Intended use
Your Speedmachine is a bicycle for the use on streets and surfaced roads.
This bicycle is not designed for the use in rac­ing and off-road riding, for jumping or acrobat­ics, and you must not ride across curbs, stairs, etc.
Damage through inappropriate use, assembly errors, accidents or similar activities and wilful damage results in the loss of any warranty.
The intended use also includes the precise ob­servation of the prescribed usage and mainte­nance regulations and instructions.
The first miles
The first 300 km (186 miles) are an important phase in which you break in the bicycle. During the first use of a new bicycle the screws may bed in and come loose. Cables and spokes may stretch. Bearings may show play. Please be very attentive during that period.
After 300 km or after two months at the lat­est you will have to take your bicycle to a bi­cycle mechanic for the first service. Please record this first service and the tasks per­formed in the warranty pass on page 57.This first service is the prerequisite for further use of the bicycle and for your warranty claims.
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Load capacity
The maximum load (rider + luggage) is 130 kg (286 lbs).The maximum total weight (bicycle + rider + luggage) is 150 kg (330 lbs).The lower limit is valid. It is important to adjust the spring stiffness of the suspension according to the load, see the chapter about adjusting the suspension in this manual, page 16. With an attached trailer, the maximum total weight must not be higher than 150 kg (330 lbs).
Carrying luggage
Luggage transport is only allowed with the special rear racks or lowrider racks offered by HP Velotechnik .The maximum load of the rear rack is 25 kg (57 lbs), the maximum load of the lowrider rack is 25 kg (57 lbs).
When a rear rack is mounted you have to make sure that when the rear suspension is fully compressed there is at least a 1 cm (app.
1
/2") distance between the rear tire (or mud­guard) and the rear rack. In order to adjust this distance you can clip spacers onto the pis­ton rod of the spring at the rear end between the spring retention disc and the bottom-out elastomer.These spacers are available from your local HP Velotechnik dealer.You will find further information in the chapter on suspen­sion adjustment on page 20.
Additional loading can influence the handling of your bike considerably. If you plan on riding with heavy luggage we advise you to make a test ride on a street with no traffic to adjust to the new situation.
The load should be placed as close to the body of the rider as possible, since this leads to more stable performance.
You can also improve the handling of the bike by positioning the center of gravity of the lug­gage as low as possible, so pack heavy items in the bottom of your panniers and hang them on the lowrider racks.
Be careful that your luggage on the rack is safely stored. Bags must be tightly fastened to the rack so they can not move. In no case may loose parts like straps or belts touch the wheels, the derailleur or the suspension.
We recommend waterproof bicycle bags by the German manufacturer O
RTLIEB.You can buy
them with extra large hooks matching the oversized tubes of the rack.You can also refit those largs hooks later.
Take care that your luggage does not cover the lighting system and the reflectors of your bicycle and that they stay fully functional.
In case you want to park your bicycle take care to lean it on a wall or any other solid ob­ject.With the kickstand alone it is not possible to safely park a bicycle loaded with luggage, it could fall down and be damaged.
General Safety Instructions
General safety instructions
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Transport in the car
The best way of transporting your bicycle is inside the car.Take care that it does not lie on the derailleur.
If you want to transport it outside the car we recommend a roof-rack or a rear carrier.Take care to fasten your bicycle at the frame only.
Please remove any part that could come loose during transport (seat cushion, water bottles, luggage bags, pumps, pennants, etc.).
Do not take kids with you
The Speedmachine is not designed for the transport of children.You are not allowed to mount a child's seat. It is only allowed to transport children in a trailer that has been specially designed for that purpose.
Trailers
You are allowed to use trailers up to 40 kg (88 lbs) with the Speedmachine.We recom­mend to assemble it with the W
EBER-coupling
Type E.Always check that the suspension and the trailer still work properly after you have mounted the trailer.Take care that the trailer does not damage the frame in case the bicycle falls over.
Added parts and accessories
Additional accessories may impair the function of your Speedmachine.We advise you to gen­erally ask your dealer before you mount any special parts or accessories to your bicycle.
Take care that the handlebar and the suspen­sion always stay mobile.You may not add any parts to the handlebar or the seat that might endanger the rider through sharp edged or pointed shapes while steering, getting on and off the bike or bumping against something.
Before you purchase a bell or a lighting system make sure that these accessories conform to your national laws and regulations.
Fairings
We advise you against using front fairings for the Speedmachine, since the high position of the bottom bracket impairs the vision over a fairing to the front.
Please take into account that any fairing makes the bicycle more prone to crosswind influ­ences. In strong wind or gusts of wind unsafe situations may occur, please take off the fairing in such weather conditions before the ride.
Caution! Do not fasten your bicycle at the handlebar or, with disassembled wheels, at the dropouts.The wind causes violent forces that can stress the parts and therefore may cause damage. Such a damage may not be noticed immediately.
Caution! Mounting additional parts or ac­cessories is at your own risk. It is important that you carefully read the installation guide of the manufacturer.Additions to the handle­bar like fairings, handlebar fittings, bottle holders etc. may impair your safety due to additional loading or clips with sharp edges.
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Replacement of parts
The replacement of parts relevant for safety (especially brakes, lighting system, stem, handle­bar, fork, drive train, suspension elements) should only be done with original parts by a bicycle mechanic, since it requires a certain de­gree of skill, suitable tools and mechanical apti­tude.
Any technical change you perform on your own is at your own risk!
No alteration of parts
Final assembly
Your bike has been delivered to your specialist dealer only partly assembled.
Your dealer has carefully finished the assembly, perhaps altered the specification of your bike to meet your special requirements and per­formed a test ride. Please make sure that this pre-delivery service is recorded in the warran­ty document at the end of this manual.
All screws must be checked and tightened, es­pecially on the handlebar, stem, fork, swing arm pivot and wheels. Please follow the tightening torque settings listed in the table on page 55.
Rear derailleur and brakes must be checked and adjusted. Please follow the instructions in the manuals of the parts manufacturers that come with this manual.
Screws and bolts
General Safety Instructions
Danger! If any part is deformed (e.g. due to
an accident or overload), especially frame, fork, handlebar, seat mounts, pedals, cranks and brakes, it is not allowed to use it any further or repair it. Do not try to straighten bent parts.You must replace them for your own safety. If you do not replace a damaged part it can result in a total failure of the part and you may be seriously injured!
Caution! You are not allowed to perform any work on the parts of the bicycle, espe­cially frame, fork, handlebar and seat, which might endanger their solidity. These works include drilling holes, welding, brazing, painting methods that add heat or any other chemical treatment. If any of these works is done improperly it may result in a loss of strength through direct damage or increased susceptibility to corrosion.
Caution! Screws must be tightened with prescribed tightening torque. In this manual tightening torques are given in Nm (Newtonmeter).Always use a torque wrench wherever a torque setting is given in this manual. Never rely on "feel". Screws tightened too much or not enough can break, which can lead to dangerous acci­dents. In case you don't own a torque wrench have your bicycle mechanic do the respective work.You will find a table with the prescribed torque settings on page 55 in this manual.
Adjusting your new bike
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Before the first ride: adjusting your new Speedmachine
The seating position is essential for your riding comfort, well-being and efficient cycling on the Speedmachine.Therefore you should adjust the frame, seat, handlebar and suspension to your individual requirements.
In order to adapt the Speedmachine as closely as possible to your body dimensions and to find the ideal seating position you need to ad­just the front boom, seat and handlebars.
Adjusting the leg length: moving the front boom
In order to adjust the leg length you have to move the front boom (the front part of the frame where the cranks are mounted) within the main frame.
Unscrew both screws M8x35 under the main tube with an 6 mm Allen key.Take a grip on both cranks and move the front boom into the frame or pull it out while cautiously turning it.
Before you pull out the front boom shift the chain to the smallest chain ring and sprocket. Turn the cranks a little bit backwards while pulling.Thus the chain is not under tension.
Adjusting the leg length
Danger! In case of wrong adjustment your
legs will bump against the handlebar.You may hence hurt yourselves or even loose control over the bicycle and fall!
Danger! All procedures described here re­quire a certain degree of skill, suitable tools and mechanical aptitude.After any adjust­ment perform a static check and take a test­ride on a quiet street, away from traffic. If you have any doubts please contact your lo­cal dealer.
Caution! After you have unscrewed the clamping bolts take them off and examine them for deformation. Lubricate threads and heads thoroughly.Then re-fit the bolts. If they don't turn easily you will have to repla­ce the bolts.
Unscrew the clamping bolts to adjust the front boom.
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In order to check the adjustments have anoth­er person hold the bicycle while you are sit­ting on the recumbent.
Adjust the front boom in such a way that your leg is fully extended when your heel (wearing flat shoes) is in the foremost position on the pedal. Experience shows that the pedal-to-seat distance on a recumbent can be slightly longer than on a conventional bike.
While you are pedaling the ball of your foot should be positioned over the center of the pedal axle.
It is important that your leg is not fully straightened when the crank is in the foremost position. If the distance is too great it is diffi­cult to overcome this dead point, pedaling be­comes uncomfortable and there is too much strain on the sinews of your feet and legs. If the distance is too short you may suffer from knee pain or your legs bump on the handlebar.
For riders with a short leg length the front boom has to be cut by a bicycle mechanic, so that it can be inserted to the maximum. It is important to trim the end of the tube neatly. The bare metal of the shortened tube end has to be protected against corrosion with a paint stick or wax spray.
On the left underside of the front boom there is a fine line.Align this line with the sticker on the main tube’s front end right above the clamping bolts to adjust the bottom bracket axle to a horizontal position.Additionally, you can look beyond the bottom bracket shell at the rear wheel axle and align the front boom parallel to it.Align your eyes with the bottom bracket axle and not the front derailleur tube. Then sit down on your bicycle and check the position.
Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench (tight­ening torque 14–16 Nm). On your first ride check whether there is sufficient clamping.
Adjusting the leg length
Caution! When you move the front boom
take care that its end does not damage any light cables that possibly come out of the main frame near the fork. Please inform yourself about the length of the front boom on your bike before you do any work.While moving the front boom you also have to move the light cables The light cable must never be stressed by pulling.
Adjust the front boon so that your knee will not be fully straight­ened when pedaling.
Danger! When you insert the front boom, the front boom and the inner wall of the tube must be totally free from grease, other­wise it won’t clamp properly and turn while you are riding.
Adjusting your new bike
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Caution! The minimum insertion depth of the front boom into the main frame is 10 cm (4"). In no case may the end of the front boom be visible in the clamping slot when you look at the main frame from below, since it may result in a damage of the frame.
Danger! In the opening of the main frame there must be a spacer (a slotted tube of black plastic with edges to the front and the clamping slot) that is glued into the frame. This spacer ensures safe clamping of the front boom and protects the paint. It is im­portant that you take care that this spacer is always visible at the front end of the main frame.The lower slot has to be aligned in accordance with the slot in the main frame. If this spacer is missing or is moved to the back of the tube while inserting the front boom, secure clamping is no longer guaran­teed, even if it seems to be the case at first glance. If the front boom is not clamped properly it may turn and lead to a fall. A missing or misaligned spacer will lead to a frame damage.
The rear end of the front boon may never be visible in the clamping slot.
The plastic spacer between front boom and main frame must be visible at all time.
Danger! If the bolts are tightened too much or bent, the screw or the frame can break! If the clamping is insufficient the front boom can turn during a ride which may cause your feet to slip from the pedals and lead to a dangerous fall.
If the spacer is missing or not alligned properly or the screws are tightened too much, the frame can break.!
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When moving the bottom bracket tube your dealer has to adjust the chain length. By default the Speedmachine comes with a very long chain so that the adjustment range of the bicy­cle can be fully used without the need to lengthen the chain.
After the first adjustment of the leg length that you have done together with your dealer while handing over the bicycle, the chain has to be shortened so that the arm of the derailleur is not fully turned forward while shifting on the big chain ring in front and the big sprocket be­hind.The derailleur must still be able to com­pensate a length change of the chain of at least 4 cm (1 1/2"). In order to choose the right chain length, please consult the manual of the derailleur manufacturer.
After you have adjusted the front boom you should seal the gap in the clamping slot be­tween the front boom and the main frame with wax or silicone in order to protect your frame from the penetration of water and dirt and hence damage through corrosion which may lead to a broken frame. (The clamped tube has to stay grease free, see above).
We recommend to slightly readjust the front boom every 3 months so that knees, muscles and ankles will be used differently, and you might find a more comfortable and more effi­cient riding position.
A wrong adjustment may lead to pain in your knees and inefficient pedaling. In addition we recommend to ride with a high pedaling ca­dence, which means to pedal fast and with lit­tle pressure. Pedaling with too much pressure may also lead to pain in the knees.You will find more information about this on page 26.
Adjusting the leg length
Danger! After the chain has been short-
ened it has to be closed with a special clos­ing link or a chain riveting tool that expands the rivet while riveting (i. e. ROHLOFF- Revolver).A poorly joined chain may break and thus lead to a fall. Have adjustments of the chain length or the changing of the chain be done by your bicycle mechanic.
Check that thre is at least a 5 cm (2")clearance between the end of the chain tube and other parts of the drive train.
Caution! Take care that the chain tubes have at least a clearance of 5 cm (2") to the rear derailleur and the front changer even under maximum tension of the chain and that the tubes stay tight in their fastenings. The front upper tube can be moved to the rear for length adjustment. Shorten the tubes if necessary. If the end of the chain tube gets into the rotating drive train it could be locked-up and destroyed.The end of the chain tubes have to be tightly secured with a rubber tube over the retention spring.
Adjusting your new bike
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Adjusting the seat position
Adjusting the seat length
Your Speedmachine is equipped either with the ErgoMesh®mesh seat or the adjustable BodyLink
®
seat from HP VELOTECHNIK.
The following instructions refer to the BodyLink seat. Length, seat back angle and lower seat angle are adjustable for this seat. The adjustment of the seat length and the proper seat angle is crucial for a comfortable feeling while riding your recumbent.
The upper curve of the seat back in the area of the shoulder blades determines the correct seat length:Through this shape the shoulder and neck area is lifted from the recumbent po­sition so that the head rests in a natural and relaxed position. For this reason you shouldn't need a head rest if you have the right seat po­sition. On long rides, a head rest can increase your riding comfort as you can relax your neck for a few seconds by leaning back.You can mount our custom headrest to your exist­ing seat. The seat is too small when you have the im­pression that your back is pressed too much into a "hunchback". It is too large when you have the impression that the seat angle is too far back when you are in the most upright po­sition, or when you hit the upper seat edge with the back of your head when you look up­wards.
Adjusting the seat length
Take off the seat cover (see page 49). Open the quick release lever for the seat back angle adjustment, so that the seat is not bent with inner tension. Loosen the 4 screws at the in­ner side of the seat back with an allen key SW4 a few turns. Step behind your bike and hold the seat back with both hands. Pull or push the seat back to achieve the preferred seat length.To achieve the smallest possible seat length, move the 2 upper screws from the top to the middle holes.
Tighten all 4 screws with 5–6 Nm. Move the seat back rest to the preferred angle and close the quick release lever firmly. Reinstall the seat cover
Length adjustment of the Airflow cushion
The optional Airflow-cushion consits of two parts, that connect in a V-type shape. Loosen the velcro mount of the upper part, and place it in the desired position, than fasten the vel­cro.
Adjusting the seat back angle
A big advantage of the BodyLink® seat on your Speedmachine is that you can adjust the seat back angle very quickly. For beginners or rides in the city you can choose an upright seat po­sition for a better view, and for longer rides you can choose a flat position for better aero­dynamics.
The seat back is fastened with a quick release lever on a slotted aluminum seat mount.You can adjust the seat back angle by 10 degrees by simply opening the quick release lever. In the medium seat position the angle is about 33° from horizontal.
Caution! Do not loosen or tighten the 4 screws in the lower seat part to adjust the seat length. Maximum tightening torque of these screws is 3–4 Nm.
Caution! To avoid noise from the seat when loaded, the contact surfaces between the two seat halfs need to be seperated by self­adhesive plastic sheets and all contact sur­faces of seat and seat mounts and frame need to be lubricated with grease.
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Adjusting the seat position
Adjusting the seat back angle is easy when you push the seat closely to the seat mount into the desired position. By pulling at the upper seat edge, you would twist the seat, creating tension and locking up the adjustment mecha­nism.
Because of the flexibility of the BodyLink
®
seat and the special cam shape of the seat mounts, the seat effectively pivots around a central ax­is, approximately in the area of the lower lum­bar vertebrae.This is the place where you sup­port the biggest part of your pedaling force while riding, so this point determines the dis­tance to the pedals.The advantage of this de­sign is that you adjust the distance from the seat to the bottom bracket only once as de­scribed above, a change in the seat angle does not require an adjustment of the front boom.
Adjusting the front seat edge
The front seat edge can be slightly lowered to accommodate smaller riders.With a lower front seat edge, it is easier to put your feet on the ground without pressure from the seat edge on the back of your legs.With a higher front seat edge, the seat will give more sup­port and avoid the feeling of „sliding down the seat“ that occurs with upright seat angles.
To adjust the front seat edge, open the quick release lever at both the lower and the upper seat half, so that the seat has no inner tension. Thus you need less force for the adjustment. Push or pull the seat front edge firmly until you reach the desired position and close the quick release lever firmly.Then adjust the seat back angle as described above.
If the quick release lever pressure is to loose when closed, open the lever and turn the screw on the end of the quick release axle clockwise.The low profile design of the screw head gives more clearance for the drive train.
Adjusting the lumbar support
The BodyLink®seat is ergonomically shaped and supports the natural S-curve of your spine. Forces from pedaling are supported in the area of your lower back just above your hips.The amount of support in this area (lum­bar support) is adjustable by moving the seat back and lower seat opposite to each other.
To get more lumbar support, lower the seat front edge and put the seat back in a more re­clined position. To get less lumbar support, rise the front seat edge and put the seat back more upright. For more extreme adjustments, loosen the 4 screws for the seat length adjustment in the seat back.Thus the seat back can expand and bend into the desired shape.Tighten the screws and quick releases as described above.
Adjustment of the head rest
Both seat types can be equipped with a head / neckrest which is adjustable in height and an­gle. Use the long holes and the screw hidden under the cushion (BodyLink-seat) or the mounting clamp (ErgoMesh-seat) for setting up the correct position.
Caution! The three quick releases have to be closed firmly (tightening force 15-20 kg / 45 lbs) to safely hold the seat.You are not allowed to open them while riding.After they have been closed the imprint "close" must be visible. If the quick releases are not tightened appropriately the seat can move while riding so that you may no more be able to control your bicycle.
Caution! Do not push or carry your bike on the head rest, this could damage the head rest or your seat!
Adjusting your new bike
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Adjusting the above seat steering
There are two versions of above seat steering available for the Speedmachine: Tiller steering (pictured) and Aerobar steering. Both feature a length-adjustable stem which fixes the handle­bars to the fork.
The stem has three clamping connections where the tubes are slotted and connected with a clamping screw.The connections are in particular the connection stem/fork, the con­nection of the upper half of the stem with the lower part of the stem for telescopic adjust­ment of the length, and the connection stem/handlebar.
Danger! Every time you undo one of the clamping connections you have to check the clamping screw.You also have to check the welded-on thread nut.The thread must not be damaged and the screw must turn easily. Once a year you have to dismount the screw completely and check it. In case of damage or deformation you have to change the clamping screw immediately.When you refit the screw it has to be lubricated care­fully and tightened with the required tighten­ing torque (see table on page 55).
In case you tighten the screws too much the clamping may deform and break.When you bend the screws while tightening they may break and the clamping can loosen.When you tighten the screws with an insufficient tightening torque the clamping does not reach the necessary strength and this can result in a twisting of the handlebar or the stem while riding.All these assembly errors can lead to dangerous falls!
Adjusting the handlebars
On the stem you will find 3 clamping screws for adjustment.
At first align the stem parallel to the front wheel. For this purpose loosen the lower clamping screw M8 with an Allen key SW6. Get on your bike, secure the front wheel with your feet and bring the stem into line.Tighten the screw with a tightening torque of 13-14 Nm. Check the safe clamping by trying to twist the stem against the front wheel. Due to the manufacturing process the upper end of the short tube which is attached onto the fork's steerer tube is slightly oval, this is not a defect.
With the tiller steering, the grips of the han­dlebar should show to the front in riding di­rection, away from the rider.This results in the most comfortable position to grip the handle­bar since all you have to do is "hook in" your hands to the handlebar.This position allows for easy cornering as it gives the rider the most space between handlebar and belly.
The adjustable stem should preferably be set to the shortest possible position while taking care that the legs don't touch the handlebars when riding.To check this make sure that you you have correctly adjusted the leg length as described above and sit down on your bicycle. Now, by loosening the clamping screw a little bit you can adjust the length of the stem.
Adjusting the under seat steering handlebars
Your Speedmachine with under seat steering is equipped with an „indirect“ steering.The han­dlebars are supported by a stem that pivots in the frame.The front fork is connected to the stem by a connection rod.
Horiz
ontal alignment of the handlebars
The stem is made of two parts that telescopi­cally slide into each other.The connection is made by 2 clamping screws. Loosen both clamping screws, sit on the bike and align the handlebars horizontally, so that both bar ends are at same height.Tighten both clamping screws with 6–8 Nm. Check the safe clamping by trying to turn the handlebars in the stem.This should only be possible with high forces.The ability to turn is designed on purpose: In case the bike drops over the handlebars can turn without being bent or broken immediately.
We suggest to fully insert the stem half. If you move the handlebars further back, the turning cycle will increase as the handlebars contact the frame or lowrider earlier.
Alignment of the handlebar
s to the wheel
Remove the screw between rear connection rod end and stem. Loosen the counterlock nut at the rod end.Adjust the steering rod length by screwing the rod end in or out to align the handlebars perpendicular to the front wheel. Adjust both rod ends parallel to each other. Make sure that the centerline of the connec­tion rod is in a plane perpendicular to the ground, i.e. parallel to the frame.Tighten the counterlock nut against the steering rod with 6–8 Nm.
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Pull the handlebar together with the upper part of the stem towards yourself so that there is enough room between your thighs and the handlebar for pedaling.Then check the clamping screw as described above and tighten the screw.
Tightening torques: length adjustment screw M8 (Allen key 6 mm ) 8–10 Nm handlebar clamping screws M6 (Allen key 5 mm) 6–8 Nm
Adjusting the handlebars
Danger! Only pull out the stem so far as
not to fall below the minimum insertion depth of 4 cm (1
3
/4"). In no case may the lower end of the inserted tube be visible in the clamping slot! When the stem is pulled out too far the clamping may be damaged or the stem may come loose while riding, which can result in a dangerous fall.
The end of the upper stem half must not be visible in the clamp­ing slot.
Danger! The minimum insertion depth of the stem half is 5 cm (2"). In no case may the rear end of the inserted stem half be­come visible in the clamping slot.
Position the rear rod end on top of the mount at the stem and reassemble the screw and self­securing nut with 6–8 Nm. Check the correct assembly of the indirect steering by turning the handlebars in both directions until the handlebars make contact with frame.The rod ends must moove freely without hitting the frame or getting twisted.
Adjusting the handlebar angle
By changing the angle of the handlebars you can adjust the position of the grip to the length of your upper body and your arms.
To change the angle, loosen the screws of the handlebar clamping.Turn the handlebars until they are in your favourite position. Check that the stem clamps the handlebars exactly in the center.Tighten the clamping screws with 6–8 Nm. Check the correct clamping of the han­dlebars by sitting down on your bike and pulling the handlebars. Doing so the handlebar must not turn.
Please take care that the clamping area of the stem is thoroughly trimmed and does not show any sharp edges which may lead to a rupture of the handlebars.
While riding you should allow your arms to rest in a relaxed position on the handlebars. Do not pull on the handlebars. If the handle­bars turn in the stem clamping during the ride stop immediately and tighten the clamping screw of the handlebars.
Adjusting your new bike
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Danger! The adaptor for the connection of front rod end and front fork must be seated firmly in the slots of the outer steering tube and be firmly secured between adjustment ring and counter lock ring. Before every ride, check that there is no play in the steer­ing system. Play will destroy your front fork and lead to unsecure riding conditions.
If the handlebars turn in a stem that is not suf­ficiently clamped the handlebars or the stem might be damaged or deformed. In that case a safe clamping can no longer be guaranteed, even with the correct tightening torque, and handlebars and stem have to be exchanged.
Adjusting the cable length
You can make smaller adjustments by moving the cables in their guides at the frame and the stem, so that there is enough room at all mo­bile parts. If this proves not to be sufficient you will have to have your specialist dealer shorten the cables or replace them by longer cables.
Cover all contact areas where cables move and touch the frame with protection stickers or sturdy transparent tape.This protects the paint against scratching and wear.
Handlebar grips
The grips on the handlebar are susceptible to wear and tear. Have your grips replaced by your bike shop once they don't feel comfort­able anymore.The grips always need to be at­tached firmly to the handlebar.
Caution! After adjusting the handlebar posi­tion you have to adjust the length of the brake cables and shifter cables.The cables have to run smoothly without any sharp turns and they may not be bent sharply or stretched when the handlebar is at maxi­mum cramping or the above seat steering stem is folded forwards. Also avoid large arches that could be caught up in other parts.
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Purpose of the adjustment of the suspension
Your Speedmachine is fitted with a rear swing arm for the suspension of the rear wheel and optionally with a suspension fork for the front wheel.This system compensates slight bumps on the road so that riding is comfortable and strain on your bicycle is reduced.
A well-adjusted suspension improves the trac­tion of your bicycle on uneven roads. Especially when cornering this allows a higher speed and also increases safety.
In order to achieve maximum riding comfort, the suspension settings have to match your weight as well as the road condition.
The goals of the adjustment are:
maximum use of the available suspension
travel without the suspension frequently bottoming out
quick reaction of the suspension without
obvious oscillation after having passed a bump
avoiding self enforcing oscillations, that means
increasing oscillations of the suspension system due to pedaling influence, rhythmic body movements or permanent wavy under­ground
Suspension and damping
The suspension systems of the suspension fork and the rear swing arm are fitted with the ac­tual spring and a seperate damper. Often, the terms suspension and damping are used inap­propriately in everyday language.
The spring is the elastic element that com­presses and decompresses through the load which occurs on bumpy roads.While decom­pressing the spring releases the same energy it has stored during compression.
The Speedmachine is fitted with coil springs of steel at the suspension fork and the rear fork swing arm.The optional rear shock DT-S
WISS
XM180 uses air as spring medium.
The damper slows down the process of com­pression and decompression.That means that the bicycle does not immediately "spring" back to the initial position or even further than that after having passed a bump.The damper con­verts spring energy into friction and finally into heat, and thus takes away energy from the su­spension system.This way the damper pre­vents the spring from swinging uncontrolled af­ter an initial stimulation. In addition the dam­per helps to avoid self enforcing oscillations of the suspension system that may be caused by reoccurring stimulation like pedaling forces within a crank revolution or the rhythmic up and down movement of the legs.
The suspension fork of the Speedmachine is dampened through a friction damper in the fork, the rear suspension through a hydraulic damping unit. Some models have an adjustable damping.
Adjusting the suspension
Adjusting to load
The luggage rack of the Speedmachine is mounted to the suspended part of the frame. That way your luggage is also fully suspended and it spares the material. Most notably, even under heavy load the suspension will compen­sate an uneven road much better and quicker compared to a design where the luggage car­rier would be mounted to the unsuspended parts, e.g. the rear swing arm.
Additional luggage changes the load of the wheels and their suspension.The suspension system is more compressed through the load. That way, there is less suspension travel for bumps while riding.Your suspension could sei­ze up more often.
The suspension of the front wheel is less affec­ted since luggage at the rear rack almost only puts weight on the rear wheel. Only in case of heavy luggage on the lowrider under the seat there is an influence on the front wheel.
In order to compensate the variations in the load you can change the preload. For details see the following chapter.
Theoretically this can compensate for a load change of approx. 10 kg (23 lbs) at the rear wheel. In case of higher variations in the load you would have to exchange the spring for an­other spring with another spring stiffness. In practice you can often do without it: the Speedmachine offers with 60 mm a lot of su­spension travel for a sports bike. When you choose the spring stiffness so that the full 60 mm are at your disposal when your recumbent is under maximum load, you will have a so­mewhat smaller but still very comfortable su­spension travel when you ride without luggage.
The optional air shock DT-S
WISS XM180 can
be easily pumped up to compensate load.
Adjusting your new bike
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You should always set the damping as low as possible to give the bicycle the possibility to quickly react even to several bumps in a row.
You can ride the Speedmachine with a consid­erably lower damping than for example a MTB: Due to the relaxed and steady position of the body the recumbent does not experience ex­treme variations in the load as it is known from dancing on the pedals while riding uphill on a mountain bike.
In addition to this, varying pedaling forces have very little influence on the suspension of the bicycle due to the No Squat design of the sus­pension system of the Speedmachine. So when you adjust the damping, always start with a low damping rate.
It is necessary to choose the correct spring stiffness to have a well operating suspension system.The spring stiffness is a measure for the compression of a spring at a certain load. It is either given in "N/mm" (Newton per Millimeters) or "lbs./inch" (Pounds per Inch). Sometimes you only find "lbs." printed on the springs.
The spring stiffness of the optional air shock DT-S
WISS XM180 is set by adjusting the air
pressure.
The suspension is designed in a way that the spring compresses considerably when you mount your bicycle.This is called negative sus­pension travel (or "sag") and enables the sus­pension to decompress on bumpy roads. (Which is in fact a definitely positive feature.) You should choose a spring stiffness with which this negative suspension travel takes up around 30% of the overall suspension travel. This value usually provides a very comfortable ride on your recumbent bike designed by HP V
ELOTECHNIK.
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Caution! When you turn the cap take care that it is always screwed into the outer tube with at least 5 complete turns.To check un­screw the cap completely anti-clockwise. Then put the cap back on the outer tube and tighten it at least by 5 threads. In no case may the threaded lower end of the cap be visible.This thread passes on the total load of the front wheel to the frame. In case you don't take care of the minimum thread­ed depth the thread can come off and de­stroy your fork permanently.
Do not turn the cap as far as it will go into the outer tube, there has always to be a small gap of at least half a turn.Thus you have an adjusting range of 3,5 turns.
Adjusting the suspension: suspension fork
Adjust the damping to the smallest value pos­sible.That way the fork reacts sensitively and stable. In case of high damping rate the suspen­sion can rub and compress not as smoothly as with low damping rate.The up and down movement of the legs while pedaling can make the fork oscillate at certain pedaling frequen­cies and certain leg lengths; you can reduce this influence by choosing a higher damping rate.
Caution! After having adjusted the damping rate you have to tighten the lower clamping of the stem as described in the chapter "Adjusting the handlebar", see page 13.
Adjusting the suspension fork
The front fork of the Speedmachine comes with a "Concept S2" suspension system.The suspension travel is about 54 mm.The fork features a simple adjustment of the damping and exchangeable steel springs.
Adjusting the damping of the suspension fork
To adjust the damping you turn the threaded cap at the upper end of the fork.The damping results from friction between an elastomer ring that lies between the outer tube and the inner fork steerer tube. By tightening the cap the elastomer ring is compressed, the friction to the side walls of the inner fork steerer tube is increased and thus gives more damping.
Both compression and rebound damping are affected at the same time by turning the cap.
In order to adjust the damping you have to un­do the clamping screw of the stem.Afterwards you can turn the cap either by hand. If you look at it from above the damping increases while turning clockwise, it decreases while turning anti-clockwise.
After unduing the stem clamping, you can adjust the damping.
Adjusting your new bike
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If the spring stiffness should not meet your re­quirements you can order a spring with anoth­er spring stiffness through your dealer and have it mounted there.
For more information for your specialist deal­er on changing springs, see "Maintenance and Care" on page 41.
You can distinguish the dismounted springs by their color:
medium, 19 N/mm: black hard, 24 N/mm, red
(Values are valid for Concept-Suspension from 10/2005 on.)
Choosing the spring stiffness of the suspension fork
Your suspension fork comes standard with a medium spring that covers a wide range of load and riding styles.The preload is fixed to about 3 mm.
In order to follow our advice for about 30% compression of the suspension while mounting the bike (negative travel) , the suspension should compress by 14-18 mm.To check this value you will need a second person and a ruler. First measure the distance between fork and frame.
Let the second person hold the bicycle while you sit down on the bike and put your feet on the pedals. Now have the second person measure the distance at the same spot.
The value taken should be smaller by 14-18 mm than the value taken before. Repeat this several times and calculate an average value. Due to the stiction caused by the friction damping of the fork and the low preload the fork will not always spring back to its initial position when compressed by hand. However, it will while you are actually riding and the full suspension travel is used.
Measuring is easier when you set the damping rate of the suspension fork to a small amount.
It is not important to exactly follow the rec­ommended values for the negative travel, rather follow your feeling how the bicycle be­haves during a ride, depending on the road sit­uation.While riding you should only seldom feel the suspension bottoming out. However, in case this never occurs the spring might be to hard which means you don't use the total sus­pension travel.
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Adjusting the suspension: rear swing arm
Adjusting the rear suspension ele­ment
For the rear suspension of the Speedmachine a spring element is combined with a hydraulic damping unit in a suspension element.The damping results from fluid friction of an oil flow through thin holes of a throttle valve in between two chambers inside the damper.A slightly noticeable sound that may occur from this oil flow is normal. Due to the fluid friction the spring element may heat up, therefore do­n’t touch the suspension element directly after a ride.
The Speedmachine comes standard with a steel spring rear shock D
NM DV-22.As an op-
tion you can get the air shock DT-SWISS XM180 that uses air as spring medium.
Danger! While adjusting the rear suspen­sion element never load the bicycle e.g. through resting on the seat or loading the rear rack when your hands or tools are clo­se to the suspension element. Otherwise your hands may get caught and squeezed when the suspension compresses.
Danger! The suspension elements are filled with gas under high pressure. Never try to open the damper or to remove the screw at the gas tank. Inside the damper there are no user serviceable parts. In case of damage you will have to take the complete suspen­sion element to your dealer.
Steel spring rear shock DNM DV-22
The preload determines how far the suspen­sion compresses when you are sitting on the bicycle while standing still.
For the rear wheel the same guidelines as for the suspension fork are valid: for maximum ri­ding comfort the suspension should compress by about 30% of the total suspension travel while you mount the bicycle in driving posi­tion.
For that purpose measure (similar to the me­thod described for the suspension fork) the di­stance between the two suspension element bolts or between rear rack and rear wheel while the bike is unloaded as well as while sit­ting on the bicycle in riding position.Also take into account possible luggage. Find out the to­tal suspension travel possible for your bicycle, depending on the mounted add-on parts and clips on the piston rod.The static compression should about one third of the overall suspen­sion travel.
You can affect this negative suspension travel depending on how much you weigh and how much you load your bike either by adjusting the suspension preload for fine tuning or by replacing the spring by a spring with a different stiffness in the rough tuning.
In order to adjust the suspension preload turn the knobby adjustment ring on the threaded part of the suspension element by hand. Turning the adjustment ring clockwise (looking at it from behind) reduces the preload, turning it anti-clockwise you screw the adjustment ring towards the spring and increase the spring preload. It is helpful to turn the spring toget­her with the adjustment ring.
Adjusting your new bike
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The adjustment ring should be turned no mo­re than five turns (measured from the relaxed position) towards the spring. If the suspension compresses still too far even after six turns, the spring is too soft and has to be replaced by a harder spring.A too high preload of a too soft spring does not take advantage of the full comfort potential.
You will find more information on changing springs in this manual under "Maintenance and Care", page 45.
Suspension element DV-22 with fixed damping rate.
Danger! The adjustment ring has always to be screwed so far towards the spring that the spring has no play when unloaded. Otherwise the adjustment ring could come loose through shocks while riding so that the slotted rear spring retention disc comes off. In that case the suspension element may be damaged or the rear wheel could hit the frame or rear rack, which may lead to se­rious falls. Always have an initial preload of at least half a turn on the spring.
The suspension travel is adjusted by adding clips to the piston rod of the spring element.
Danger! Take care that the rear wheel or mudguard or suspension element never hit the frame, seat, rear rack or luggage box while the suspension is fully compressed.
Therefore relax the spring completely by turning the spring retention disc on the thread of the spring element as far as possi­ble (before this, take out the possibly exi­sting safety spring ring of its slot in the thre­aded section). Have a second person mount the bicycle and make the suspension bottom out by leaning on the seat or the rear rack. If the distance between the wheel or mud­guard and the frame or rear rack or Speedbag is smaller than 1 cm you will have to mount an additional spacer. In case you don't, the mudguard may break suddenly or the rear wheel might be blocked which can lead to serious crashes.
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Adjusting the suspension: rear swing arm
Air shock DT.SWISS XM180
Please follow the instructions in the separate manual from the rear shock manufacturer.
This rear shock contains pressurized air in a main („positive“) air chamber as suspension medium.Air shocks are lighter than steel spring rear shocks.Another advantage is that the spring stiffness can be easily adjusted with an air pump: By increasing the pressure the spring becomes harder.
Air shocks have a progressive spring behaviour, whereas steel springs have a linear spring be­haviour. This means that the air shock gets progressively harder, e.g. it is much stiffer when fully compressed than when only slightly com­pressed.
The advantage of this progressive spring be­haviour is the good bottom-out protection when heavily loaded.
The valve for the air chamber is located at the back end of the air shock.The valve is protect­ed by a metal valve cap.
To pump up the air shock you need a special air pump designed for bicycle air shocks. It must have a fitting schrader valve adaptor and a pressure indicator.
When attaching or removing the pump to/from the valve, you will loose some air (about 0,5-1 bar).Take off the pump quickly.
Recommended pressure settings
load pressure
– 80 kg (183 lbs) 7,5 bar –100 kg (230 lbs) 9,0 bar –130 kg (286 lbs) 10,5 bar
Maximum allowed pressure is 18 bar.
Danger! Take care that the rear wheel or mudguard or suspension element never hit the frame, seat or rear rack box while the suspension is fully compressed.
Therefore fully deflate the air shock. Have a second person sit down on the bicycle and make the suspension bottom out by pushing on the seat or the rear rack.
If the distance between the wheel or mud­guard and the frame, seat or rear rack is smaller than 1 cm you will have to have your bike dealer mount an additional spacer in­side the air shock. In case you don't, the mudguard may break suddenly or the rear wheel might be blocked which can lead to serious crashes.
Adjusting your new bike
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Adjusting the damping
By adjusting the damping you can adjust the performance of the suspension precisely to your individual riding situation.A rough street with many harsh bumps that occur in a row or even cobblestones needs a low damping rate while a road with long stretched bumps that occur more regularly needs a stronger damp­ing to achieve a smooth road holding.
When you add a lot of luggage you will need to adjust the spring stiffness; in that case an adjustment of the damping may even give you more riding comfort.
Finally, the oil used in the damper becomes thicker and more viscous at lower tempera­tures, which can be compensated through a change in the damper setting.
Please note that you can seriously spoil the riding comfort by a bad damper setting, espe­cially through unsystematic playing with the knobs that may result in much to high damping rates. In the worst case the suspension ele­ment will neither compress nor decompress. If you are in doubt please consult your local dealer.
The rebound damping prevents an eventual "jumping" of the rear wheel and provides a good traction. By improving the road surface contact the suspension of the Speedmachine also increases your riding safety.
A higher damping value prolongs the time until the decompression movement is finished. Only then can the suspension compensate the next shock with the full suspension travel. Therefore, when you ride on very bumpy streets with shocks that occur fast in a row you might want to use a lower damping value.
A good setting for maximum comfort is achieved when the rear wheel decompresses completely after a shock and then oscillates only once. In order to check the adjustment you will need a second person that compress­es the suspension by pushing the bicycle down while you are sitting on the bicycle in the rid­ing position.The other person can then ob­serve the suspension movements.
In order to adjust the damping during decom­pression, turn the adjustment knob on top of the rear end of the suspension element.
If you turn the knob in direction of the „-“ you will get less damping and thus faster decom­pression.Turning the knob in direction of the „+“ will give you more damping and thus slow­er decompression.
Air Shock DT-Swiss XM180. Damping is adjusted with the red knob at the rear end.The shock must be installed with the lock­out lever facing down to avoid a collision of lever and frame when the suspension is moving.
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Learning the new riding technique
Your new bicycle has been assembled by your dealer and adjusted together with you as de­scribed on the previous pages under "Adjusting your new bicycle". Before you mount your bike and enjoy your first ride please make yourself familiar with the instruc­tions on the riding technique and the handling.
To ride this recumbent you will have to make yourself acquainted with the different riding position. Make sure that you and all other fu­ture users of this bicycle will have read this manual carefully prior to the first ride. If you are in doubt please consult your local dealer.
Before the first ride the users of this recum­bent have to practice and make themselves fa­miliar with the different handling.We recom­mend to practice on a quiet road away from traffic. Before you ride the bicycle in traffic you must master the handling completely.
Go to a road where you can ride straight ahead without being hindered. Hold your bike at the handlebar and pull a break.Then sit down on your bicycle and lean back. Leave one foot on the ground and put one on the pedal. Therefore rotate the crank in the top position so that you can pedal immediately with power.
Try to keep your balance in that position. Assure yourself that you can stop whenever you want to and hold the bicycle with one foot on the ground.When you feel safe put pressure on the pedal, loosen the brake, pedal with a lot of force and immediately put your second foot on the other pedal. Do not care on which side of pedal you are currently ped­aling in the beginning. Hold the handlebar loose but steady and accelerate with a few pedal strokes.Your bicycle needs speed to sta­bilize.
Look ahead in the direction where you want to ride, not on the handlebar, at your feet or the front wheel.
In order to stop brake carefully with both brakes until the bicycle has come to a com­plete stop. Only then do you put a foot on the ground and keep the balance.
Learning the new riding technique
Danger! Never touch the ground with your
feet while the bicycle is still moving.The feet could be caught on the ground and be pulled backwards which could lead to a serious in­jury.
Danger! With a compact recumbent like the Speedmachine it is possible that a foot of the rider contacts the front wheel when riding sharp corners with a pedal in a low position.You will have to avoid this situation at all times since in extreme situations it may lead to a fall and injuries.
To control the bicycle you will therefore have to apply the following cornering tech­nique: when you ride a curve stretch the leg on the inside of the curve, stop pedaling, on­ly then start steering into the curve. Only when you ride straight ahead again may you resume pedaling.
Handling instructions
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Wear protective clothing
Riding a bicycle is a potentially dangerous sport where accidents can happen even when you take care of every safety instruction pre­scribed.
We recommend you to wear an approved bi­cycle helmet that fits well. Protect yourself by wearing special sports clothing that fits tightly and is reflective.
When you fall with a recumbent you usually land on the side of your hips and your hands. Wearing reinforced cycling shorts and gloves reduces the danger of skin injuries consider­ably.
Use clipless pedals
The pedals of your recumbent bike can be up­graded on demand with a binding system.As soon as you are comfortable with riding your recumbent bike you should use those clipless pedals. Due to the rigid connection between shoe and pedal you don't have to keep your foot on the pedals with pressure anymore. This enables a more relaxed and round pedaling movement where you may even pull a little on the pedals.Without this connection to the pe­dals your feet may come off suddenly which may result in a fall. Modern system pedals with binding therefore contribute to safe riding.
At first you will have to practice with these pedals to make sure that you can get off quik­kly in a dangerous situation. Please read the manual of the pedal manufacturer that comes with this manual and have your dealer explain the use of the pedals to you. In the beginning set the release force of the binding to a low value to make sure you can get off safely.
Please exclusively use the original shoe plates (cleats) from the pedal manufacturer. Do not use any other brand. If you're using shoe plates that are not authorized the binding system won't work properly.
Protective clothing, cleatless pedals
Danger! Please note that you may be no-
ticed very late by other road users due to the low seat height and ride anticipatory ac­cording to this.This is especially important while riding in darkness.You yourself have a much better view than others perceive you. Ride defensively.We recommend you to mount a well visible and reflecting flag to the bicycle while using it in traffic. Please ask your dealer for more information.
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Slowly increase the strain
We recommend you to perform only short rides without much power during the first weeks.
Always use a low gear and ride with a high pedaling frequency. Only after having acquired some training do increase the strain slowly. When you ride on a recumbent you use other muscles than on a conventional bicycle, and they have to be trained first. The very high po­sition of the bottom bracket requires your muscles and blood transport system to slowly familiarize with the new position.
In case of an overload the blood circulation in your legs may be affected which shows in loss of power, a prickling in the toes, falling asleep of the legs or cramps.When you have a sporty way of riding it can take up to 6 months until you have become accustomed to your new re­cumbent.
Should you have pain in your knees while rid­ing this is usually the result of too much pow­er put into pedaling.The good support of the back sometimes misleads to putting the full power of the legs in the pedal, similar to the leg training machines in a fitness center.When you repeat it regularly it is harmful for the knees. Pain in the knees often results from an overuse of the muscles in the knee that can al­so be strengthened through exercise.
Also, a wrong adjustment of the front boom to the leg length (in most cases too short) can lead to pain in the knees.
Your pedaling cadence should stay between 80-100 revolutions per minute and not fall be­low 60 revolutions when going uphill. If neces­sary have your specialist dealer adjust the gear range to your riding style and the terrain you usually ride.
You will find many tips on proper training for cyclists in miscellaneous books and magazines for cyclists.
In case of persistent problems please consult your doctor.
Do not ride freehand
How to ride correctly and safely
Always adjust your speed to the traffic, the road and the weather conditions. Ride slowly in curves and on unknown roads.Always ride at a safe distance from other road users, and when you ride in a group never ride side by side.
When you approach a traffic light never ride past the line of waiting cars since even the most attentive car driver may not see you due to your low seating position.
Strain, riding freehand, way of riding
Danger! In order to ride safely you have to
keep both hands at the handlebar. Even when signaling keep at least one hand at the handlebar. Otherwise, unforeseen bumps in the road or oscillations of the steering may lead to a serious fall.
Caution! Always carry your bicycle over stairs and curbstones. Do not ride through big road holes. Especially when road holes are filled with water it is very difficult to guess how deep they really are. In case you hit such an obstacle frame and fork may be damaged which can result in a serious fall.At first, the damage may be unnoticed. Please check your bicycle immediately for deforma­tions and cracks. If you are in doubt please consult your local dealer.
Handling instructions
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Quick release levers
Quick release levers hold wheels and seat in position.
A quick release lever consists of two basic parts: the lever on one side provides the clamping force.With the adjusting nut on the other side you adjust the clamping tension on the screw thread.
To open the quick release move the lever away from the frame. In doing so the inscription "open" will become visible on the lever.
To close the quick release move the lever with power in the other direction so that the word "close" is visible on the outward side of the lever. At the start of the lever's motion, for, say, half of its movement, the lever should move very easily, without any clamping action. In the second half of the lever's movement the force on the lever should increase considerably, cor­responding in the end to 15-20 kg (46 lbs).
In its final position the lever should lie parallel with the bicycle and should not stick out to one side.
Check the security of the lever by attempting to twist the lever. If the lever can be made to pivot around in a circle the clamping is too loose.You must re-open the quick release, hold the lever and increase the clamping ten­sion. Do this by screwing the adjustment nut on the other side further by half a turn. Close the lever and check the clamping anew.
Finally, check that the part being secured is firmly fixed: Lift each wheel several inches off the ground and give it a slap onto the tire from above.A properly fixed wheel will remain secure in the frame's dropouts.
The dropouts of the fork of your Speedmachine are designed as safety dropouts. Therefore you always have to loosen the clamping nut of the quick release when you take off the front wheel.When you reassemble it do not forget to tighten the nut again!
Parts that are fastened with a quick release open easily.Thus, they are more susceptible to theft.Therefore, always secure the wheels with a lock when you park your bicycle. It is also possible to exchange the quick releases with special security screws (e.g. from P
ITLOCK) that
can only be opened with a special tool. For this please consult your local specialist dealer.
Take off the seat
Open all three quick release levers of the seat mounts. Unscrew the nut of the upper seat quick release approximately 4 turns. Turn the quick release levers of the middle and lower seat quick release counter clockwise approxi­mately 4 turns. Eventually it may be easier to hold the quick release lever and turn the flat nut on the right side (chainside) of the seat mounts with a 5 mm allen key.
Pull the lower seat half out of its mounts, then the upper seat half.
Quick release levers, Seat
Danger! An incompletely or improperly
closed quick release can result in parts com­ing loose, and hence in a crash, possibly re­sulting in serious injury.
Caution! When storing the seat, please take care not to bend or break the seat mounts. Protect the edges of the seat mounts with padding to avoid scratching other objects with the seat mounts.
Do not brake in a bend, always brake before a bend. Braking increases the risk of slipping. Especially when it is wet the rear wheel imme­diately slides out of the bend while braking and this can result in a serious fall!
If you should hear any unusual sounds while braking the braking pads might be worn. Do not use your bike any further until you have checked the braking pads according to the ma­nual of the brake manufacturer or ask your lo­cal dealer.
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Brakes
The Speedmachine is equipped with a power­ful disc brake system.This system features an excellent braking performance and little wear of the brake pads.You can choose between ca­ble-operated disc brakes or hydraulic disc brakes. Please read the separate manual that comes with your bike for details.
Make yourself familiar with the braking system. Remember which lever pulls the front brake and which the rear brake.
If the arrangement of the levers does not cor­respond to what you are used to, please have a bicycle mechanic change it. Please contact your local bike dealer to find out if there exists any legal requirement for the arrangement of the brake levers in your country.
For optimum handling you can adjust the di­stance between the brake grip and the handle­bar with a small hex-headed screw at the grip, please see the respective manual for details.
Note that the front brake is the most effective brake on the Speedmachine.With the front brake, you achieve a much higher braking ef­fect than with the rear brake.The rear wheel has a tendency to lock up and slip on the pa­vement even under low braking forces.The braking effect of modern brake systems can be more powerful than what you have been used to until now. Do brake carefully. When you brake too much with the front brake the rear wheel may lift off the street and the bike may tumble over.
Brakes
Danger! Please note that the braking di-
stance is much longer when it is wet or when the bike is heavily loaded. When riding on wet, sandy, icy or slippery roads you have to use the front brake very carefully to avoid that your front wheel slips. If it does so you will no longer be able to handle your bike, which might lead to a serious fall.
Danger! In case you get into a situation like that during an emergency stop you have to let go of the brakes immediately, balance your bicycle and brake again. If you are not familiar with the brakes we recommend you to train at first at low speed and with little braking effect until you find the correct dose for an emergency stop.
Handling instructions
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New brake systems, new brake pads and new brake discs need a break-in period to achieve maximum brake power.This period lasts for about 30-40 stops from about 30 km/h (20mph), which should be done in a safe area without traffic.
Danger! Always make sure that the rims, disc and brake pads are free of oil and grea­se. If these parts are dirty please do not use your bicycle any more.You can clean oily rims or discs with alcohol or a special spray. Oily brake pads have to be replaced. If you are in doubt, please have your specialist dea­ler maintain your brake system.
Check before every ride:
that the brake system does not have any da
mages or leaks by activating the lever, holding it and checking the hose connections for possible leaks.
that the brake lever pressure is ok by pulling
the lever and ensuring that full braking per formance is achieved before the lever tou ches the handlebar. If this is not the case, ad just the cable or change the brake pads, for hydraulic disc brakes pull the lever several ti mes (pump) until it feels firm.
check the hydraulic brake system for the
correct pressure by pulling the lever, holding the pressure and checking the hose connec tions, bleeding screw and compensating tank for possible leaks.
Danger! Disc brakes can overheat on long downhill rides, fade and fail! On downhill ri­des, do not brake constantly, but in several intervals with higher pressure. If you notice that the brake power starts to fade, stop im­mediately and let your brakes cool down.
Danger! Never touch neither the brake disc nor the brake caliper after long braking as this may cause serious injury (risk of burns).
30
HP
Velotechnik
Gear system
With the gear system you can adjust the ped­aling frequency, that means the number of rev­olutions of the crank per minute, to the ter­rain and the desired speed.
Your pedaling frequency should stay between 80-100 revolutions per minute and not fall be­low 60 while going uphill. If necessary consult your local dealer and have him retrofit the gear range to your style of riding.
Your Speedmachine comes standard with a de­railleur gear or with a internal hub gear sys­tem.The following section refers to the de­railleur gear system only. Please also refer to the manual of the gear manufacturer.
You operate the gear changer with the grip­shifters or bar end shifters on the handlebars.
The right lever for the rear derailleur has an index derailleur system that positions the chain always on the chosen sprocket, so that you don't have to "search" for the gears.
It is not possible to index the left lever so that you have to adjust the front derailleur while shifting by slightly moving the shifter to stop the front derailleur from dragging against the chain while pedaling.
Riding a recumbent requires foresighted gear shifting. Before stopping you should timely change in a low gear to make it easy to start off again, without having to pedal heavily and struggling with your balance.
You may only change the gears while you keep pedaling, smoothly and without applying great force, all the time that the chain is moving be­tween the sprockets. Due to the long cables that expand under pressure and the housing that compresses under pressure it may be helpful for changing gears quickly to turn the twist grip a little bit farther than necessary to select a gear and turn it back to the indexed position once the chain has properly shifted (“overshift”).
When the chain length has been properly ad­justed you can choose every combination of front chain rings and rear sprockets to shift gears. However, it is useful to ride the lowest gears with the smallest chain ring (the biggest rear sprocket), the middle gears with the mid­dle chain ring and the highest (fastest) gears with the biggest chain ring.
The setup of the chain rings and sprockets leads to an overlap of some gears.This means that different combinations of chain rings and sprockets can result in the same gear. It would be possible to arrange a gear system so that double gears do not occur but this requires a lot of concentration when you shift gears while riding since you will always have to change the rear sprockets as well as the front chain rings. If you would like to change the set­up of your gears please consult your local dealer.
Gear system
Danger! Do practice shifting gears on a
traffic-free street. In the course of this make yourself familiar with the functioning of the twist-shifters. Doing this in traffic could dis-
tract your attention from possible dangers. Caution! Under no circumstances allow the bike to roll back while changing the rear gears, or try to pull the bike backwards when the gear shifter lever has been moved, as this will damage the rear derailleur.
Handling instructions
31
HP
Velotechnik
Lighting system
Lighting system
If you want to ride your bike on public streets, it must be equipped with a legal lighting sys­tem. Do not only use your lights in the dark but also in the twilight of dusk and dawn. Due to laws and regulations the brightness of bicy­cle lights may be considerably lower than that of other vehicles.Therefore always keep in mind that other road-users may only see you very late or not at all.
For the Speedmachine, HP V
ELOTECHNIK offers
two different dynamo lighting systems: one with a tire dynamo and the other with a hub dynamo.
Both lighting systems come with strong LEDs for headlamp and rear light.The LEDs last con­siderably longer (approx. 100.000 working hours) than a light bulb. For your safety the lighting system has a parking light system at the front and at the rear light, which makes the LEDs shine on approximately 10 minutes after you have stopped riding. The electronic system is maintenance free. Because of the ca­pacitors used you don't have to worry about batteries.
The cables and the contacts can be affected by corrosion or mechanical damage.Therefore, check the lighting system before every ride.
Tir
e dynamo
You turn on the lighting system with the tire dynamoat the rear wheel by unlocking the swiveling mechanism of the dynamo. For this purpose,you press the red button at the dy­namountil it moves towards the rear wheel.To turn the light off, you turn the dynamo back to its initial position by hand.
You can adjust the pressure of the dynamo against the wheel with the turning knob at the side.The pressure is right when the dynamo wheel just does not slip at the wheel, if the light flickers, the pressure is too low and you have to increase it. The position of the dynamo should be so that the extension of the dynamo axle points through the center of the wheel. Take care that the dynamo is mounted safely and does not turn.Worn dynamo wheels can be exchanged. Please ask your specialist dealer.
You switch on the tire dynamo by pressing the red button.To switch off the dynamo move it away from the wheel.
Danger! Do not try to move the dynamo while riding, your hands can be caught in the wheel and be injured! To turn the lighting system on or off stop riding, get up from your bicycle and only then move the dy­namo.
Danger! The dynamo must always be safely fastened to the bracket at the frame, so that it can not turn. If the screws comes loose the dynamo can get caught in the spokes and block the rear wheel - danger of a seri­ous fall! Always check the position and se­cure attachment of the dynamo before a ride.
32
HP
Velotechnik
Hub dynamo
The lighting system with a hub dynamo is switched on electrically. For this purpose you will find a switch on the back of the rear light with three labelled switch positions.With the switch you can turn the lighting system ON, OFF or set it to SENSOR. In the SENSOR po­sition a twilight sensor in the lamp turns the lighting system on and off automatically de­pending on the brightness of the environment. The SON hub generator is highly efficient and works silently.
The SON hub dynamo is highly efficient and works silently.When the dynamo is turned off it has a very low turning resistance.Although you can feel the single poles of the used per­manent magnets very distinctly when turning it by hand the real rolling resistance is minute. (The loss below 1 W at 15 km/h / 9,5 mph.)
For details on the hub dynamo please visit www.nabendynamo.de.
Prop stand
At the rear swing arm you can mount a prop stand.
For this purpose HP Velotechnik delivers a sol­id prop stand.You operate this prop stand with your foot.
Before riding check that the prop stand does not affect the function of other parts in any position.
The prop stand is only suitable for parking the bike on even, solid ground. In case of unforti­fied ground, luggage load or mounted fairings we recommend to lean the bike securely against a solid wall or pole.
Due to the limited space at the kickstand mount, the kickstand is attached with am M8 bolt that runs from the downside through the kickstand and frame mount.A single M8 nut holds the bold.To dismount, hold the nut and turn the bolt.
Lighting system, Prop stand
The hub generator lighting system can be set to on, off or auto­matic (Sensor) with the integrated switch at the front light.
Danger! Before every ride check whether
the prop stand is lifted up to its riding posi-
tion.With a recumbent prop stands are of-
ten forgotten. In the first left turn the prop
stand can touch the ground and cause a fall!
After a fall you will have to check the prop
stand and the area where it is mounted for
damage and deformation.
Maintenance and care
33
HP
Velotechnik
Maintenance and care
Your Speedmachine is equipped with the latest bicycle technology that does not require much maintenance.
However, you will have to maintain your bicy­cle regularly, as it is necessary with other vehi­cles too.At least once a year the bicycle has to be taken to a bicycle mechanic for an overall service. Only this way a long lasting and safe function of all parts of your bicycle can be guaranteed. It maintains the value of your bicy­cle as well as the fun and the safety while rid­ing for many years.
Read in this chapter how you can carry out smaller maintenance and care works between the services.
For a quick overview of the works to be done take a look at the warranty pass on page 58.
Wear and Tear
As on many other vehicles, some parts on a bicycle are affected by wear and tear.The lifeti­me expectation of these parts depends on the intensity and type of use as well as on the maintenance and care. Please keep in mind that the process of wear and tear is normal and no reason for a warranty claim against your dea­ler or HP V
ELOTECHNIK.
You will find more specific information on we­ar and tear in the chapters on the relevant parts.
Maintenance and care, Brakes
Caution! The maintenance works of this re-
cumbent partly require special tools and skills. Do only work within your limits and, in the interests of your own safety, do not go beyond. Should you be uncertain at any point, get in contact with your local dealer.
Brakes
The brake pads suffer from wear due to fric­tion and have to be exchanged then. Please read the manual of the brake manufacturer carefully.
With rim brakes the rim walls suffer from wear.When the rims are too worn the tire pressure can tear up the rim and damage the wheel - danger! Please have your bicycle me­chanic check your rims at the latest after the second brake pad change and exchange them if necessary.
cable oper
ated (mechanical) brakes
The brake pads of your brakes are worn when you can pull the lever further and further to the handlebar before the pads touch the rim. Rim brakes:When the pads are so worn that you can't see the cross grooves of the pad anymore you will have your bicycle mechanic exchange the brake pads.
To balance the wear of the brake pads you can tighten the cable with the adjuster barrel where the cable goes into the brake lever. First loosen the locknut, then undo the screw so far that the wheel turns, barely not touching the pads, hold the screw and tighten the locknut again towards the brake lever.Take care that the slot of the adjuster points down so that no moisture enters from above or the front.
Caution! Damaged cables where single wires stick out have to be exchanged imme­diately. Otherwise your brake system may fail - danger! Please take care that the cable ends are always protected with a cap. Always keep the cables shortly trimmed. Leaving too much cable extending past the cable anchor can result in the cable catching in the rotor or wheel, which could then be pulled in the calliper, causing the wheel to lock up.
34
HP
Velotechnik
Brakes
hydraulic rim br
akes
To balance the wear of the brake pads there is a turning knob at the brake lever.Turn this knob anti clockwise to move the pads closer to the rim.As soon as the knob doesn't turn anymore the brake pads have to be exchanged. Before you change the pads turn the knob clockwise as far as it will go, back to the initial position.
h
ydraulic disc brakes
Hydraulic disc brakes feature a fully automatic pad wear adjustment. Brake pads are subject to wear, therefore regularly check the thick­ness of your brake pads and replace them, if necessary. The minimum thickness of the brake pad incl. metal backing is 2.5 mm.
Mechanical disc brakes
If the brake pads are worn so far that tighten­ing the cable tension is not sufficient, you can re-align the brake caliper in the slotted holes and adjust the inner brake pad with the hex bolt at the hub side of the brake caliper. Have this adjustment work done by a qualified bike mechanic.
Check your brake pads frequently as explained in the manual supplied by the brake manufac­turer.Worn brake pads, oily or damaged pads must be exchanged immediately by a qualified bike mechanic.
Hydr
aulic brakes
Hydraulic brakes on HP VELOTECHNIK bikes use low viscosity mineral oil that, contrary to DOT brake liquid used in cars, does not ab­sorb water. Thus, you don't have to change the oil. Please read the brake manufacturer’s manual that comes with the trike. In case of a damaged hose or any leakage of oil always consult a qualified technician in a bike shop.
Caution! Never activate the lever blade
without the brake pads in place and with the
wheel dismounted.When you transport the
bicycle without wheels always use the trans-
port clips delivered with your bike or put a
piece of cardboard in the brake caliper to
replace the disc. Carefully separate brake
pads that have moved together with a
screwdriver.
Danger! All maintenance work on the hy-
draulic system of your brakes may only be
carried out by a qualified technician. In case
these works are carried out without the re-
quired knowledge and skills the brake sys-
tem might fail which can lead to a serious
crash.
Caution! Keep the brake cable clean where it is not protected by the cable housing. Due to the mounting position of the brake lever with under seat steering, moisture and dirt may enter the cabel and cause drag and ex­cessive wear. Lube the ends of the cable to protect against moisture.
Caution! Keep the brake lever clean. Due
to the mounting position, water and dirt
could collect inside the lever around the hy-
draulic cylinder.This could lead to excessive
wear or leakage of the hydraulic system.
All moving parts of the gear system are affect­ed by wear. Cleaning and lubricating these parts frequently can prolong the life of these parts, however they will have to be replaced once worn out.
The cables have to be checked, cleaned and serviced regularly. Expect more wear and cor­rosion when the bike is often parked outside in bad weather conditions.
Maintenance and care
35
HP
Velotechnik
Gear system
Please read the manual of the gear system manufacturer carefully when you want to work on it.
Your dealer will have carefully adjusted your derailleur gearing system before handing over the bike. But during the first 300 kilometers (186 miles) of riding the gear cables can stretch, making the gear indexing imprecise. The chain then climbs only hesitantly onto the next sprocket.
Adjusting the gear inde
xing for the rear
derailleur
Adjust the barrel adjuster where the gear ca­ble goes into the rear derailleur. Do it in small steps of half a turn.
Check after each adjustment whether the chain moves cleanly up to the next larger sprocket.To do this, either turn the cranks by hand or ride the bike.
When the chain climbs up easily, you need to check that it still goes down easily onto the smallest sprocket. If necessary turn the barrel adjuster a little more and then try shifting gears again.
Gear system
Danger! If the chain shifts over the smallest
or the biggest sprocket you have to readjust the end-limit adjusters of the rear or the front derailleur. Incorrect adjustment can lead to the chain coming off, getting stuck or damaging the spokes, which may result in se­rious falls.The adjustment of the end-limit adjusters is a job for the professional cycle mechanic.
Danger! If the bike falls over, the derailleur or its mounting can be bent so that the movement of the derailleur changes. Check the movement and have it readjusted by your bicycle mechanic, if necessary.
Caution! Damaged cables that show for example single wires have to be changed immediately. Otherwise they may damage your gear system.Take care that the ends of the cables are protected with fitting caps.
36
HP
Velotechnik
Chain
Chain
The chain is a wearing part that has to be lu­bricated regularly and to be changed at signs of excessive wear and tear.
Lubricating the chain
Diligent lubrication is important.The chain of your Street Machine GT is approximately 2.5 times longer than a standard bicycle chain (ap­prox. 3.8 m). But it also lasts longer since a chain only wears while bending at the spro­ckets and the chain rings.
Use a good chain oil that won't leave a sticky film on the chain.The chain oil must not con­tain any aggressive chemical substances that might affect the surface of the chain tubes or chain idler.
Specialist stores sell biodegradable lubricants. HP V
ELOTECHNIK recommends a DryLube-type
lubricant.This lubricant is purely based on PTFE (Teflon) that keeps the chain clean and dry.This way dirt simply falls off and the tubes always stay clean.
It is important that you clean the chain with a cloth before lubricating. Otherwise the fresh oil washes the dirt that clings to the chain into the gaps and the bushings where the dirt cau­ses heavy wear.
Do not use any solvents to clean the chain! The solvent washes the oil off the bearing parts, stays there and dilutes the fresh oil so that a sufficient lubrication is not guaranteed. If you have treated the chain with a solvent you will have to heat it up with a hot air torch or boil it in chain grease.
An effective protection against corrosion is critical for a long chain life. Some minutes after you have oiled the chain rub it with a cloth to remove superfluous oil from the outer surface. Wax the chain thoroughly with a wax spray. The wax keeps off water, protects from corro­sion and makes dirt fall off easily.
If the chain has become wet after riding in the rain you should put your bicycle in a dry and heated room, and every day you should turn the crank and so move the chain until it is dry again. Otherwise it is difficult for the moisture in the tubes to evaporate which may lead to corrosion at the chain.
Danger! Take care not to pour any oil on
the rims, brake discs or the tires.The brake
system could fail or the tires could slip away
suddenly.The oil affects the rubber of your
tires and could damage them.While lubrica-
ting cover the surrounding area.
Maintenance and care
37
HP
Velotechnik
Changing the chain
The chain is one of the parts of the bike that will wear out.This shows in a stretching of the chain.Worn out chains do not fit the sprockets and chain rings anymore and wear them away very quickly.
Check the chain regularly for lengthening. For this purpose try to remove the chain from the chain ring.The chain may come off to a maxi­mum of 5 mm. For a more precise reading you can buy a chain measurement gauge in your bike shop that you simply put into the chain.
Only use chains that are suitable for the gear system of your bike. Otherwise a precise gear shifting is not guaranteed any more. Please consult your dealer on this topic. He will also assist you in checking your sprockets and chain rings.A new chain does not fit a worn sprock­et or chain ring.We recommend rust resistant Rustbuster-chains from KMC with smoothly rounded edges.They also provide a good gear changing performance.
HP V
ELOTECHNIK delivers spare chains by the
meter via your dealer. For this purpose please indicate the exact length of your chain or or­der it a little bit longer if you want to be sure it fits.You will need approx. 3,8 m of chain.
Caution! When you change the chain take care that the new chain does not show any sharp edges or burrs.Very thin racing chains are also not suitable since they wear the chain tubes and the chain roller much faster.
The chain length has to be fitted so that the arm of the derailleur is not fully stretched when you shift onto the big chain ring in the front and the big rear sprocket.The derailleur must be able to compensate a tightening of the chain by 4 cm. Please see also the manual of the derailleur manufacturer on the choice of the correct chain length.
See that the joining link is not bigger in size than the other chain links to avoid irregular chain sounds.We recommend the joining links by KMC. Every time you change the chain you also have to apply a new joining link.
Make sure that any chain links in the chain are not stiff, as this can cause some annoying and not obvious problems with the gear system.
Make sure the chain is not twisted by 180° before joining it back together.
Caution! The chain has to be closed with a special joining link or a chain riveting tool that expands the ends of the rivet while ri­veting (ROHLOFF revolver).A poorly joined chain may break, you can come off the pe­dals and fall. If you are in doubt please have adjustments of the chain length or the chan­ging of the chain be done by your bicycle mechanic.
38
HP
Velotechnik
Chain tubes
The chain protection tubes are made of a long lasting plastic that features very low friction, slow wear and good noise damping.The tubes protect your clothes against the chain oil as well as the chain against dirt from the road.
The upper tubes are fastened with an ex­changeable retention spring, the lower tubes through two adjustable clips.
The tubes are worn by the chain and have to be cut at the ends and expanded again (or ex­changed) after 3.000-5.000 km approximately, depending on how many kilometers have been ridden, on the chain type and the overall riding condition.You can extend this maintenance in­terval by turning the tubes by a quarter turn from time to time so that they do not keep wearing out in the same place.
The intensity of the wear depends mainly on the chain type.
In order to perform any work at the chain tu­bes you'll have to open the chain and finally close it again. Please see the instructions on "Chain" on page 36.
The distance of the upper chain tube to the chainwheel can be adjusted by sliding the tube in the retention spring. It must be secured with the rubber tube over the spring.
Expanding the tube ends
The ends of the tubes are expanded like a trumpet so that the chain can enter smoothly without friction and without making noises.
When the ends are worn out you can renew them by expanding them again. Remove the chain by opening the powerlink or open it with a special chain riveting tool. Cut the worn part of the tube exactly perpendicular with a sharp knife.
Heat the last 5-10 mm at the end of the tube with a gas burner, a hot air gun, or a candle and turn it permanently until the colour of the utmost edge turns from a dull black to a shiny black. Now you expand the end with a proper tool, e.g. the rounded grip of a screwdriver. Quench the expanded end immediately with cold water.
Take care that the tubes don't catch fire. At any rate work in a place with sufficient ventila­tion.
Chain tubes
Caution! The rear ends of the upper chain
tube have to be secured against moving with
a tight rubber tube over the retention
spring.Without the rubber tube the chain
tube may be dragged forward into the turn-
ing chain roller or chainring and thus be
damaged by the chain.
Caution! Check the chain tubes frequently
if they are damaged or defective. Replace de-
fective chain tubes immediately. If the chain
tubes are worn in the area of the retention
spring or tube mountings, the chain will
touch the retention spring, leading to failure
of the spring and mountings.As a result, the
chain tube can get into the drive train and
block it!
Caution! Take care that the chain tubes keep at least a 5 cm distance to the rear and front derailleur when the chain is stretched to the maximum, and that the tubes are well fastened. If necessary you will have to shor­ten the tubes. If the end of a chain tube gets into the rotating drive train it can be blo­cked and the chain tubes may be destroyed.
Maintenance and care
39
HP
Velotechnik
If the tube is too short after you have cut it so that there is not enough protection anymore it has to be replaced.You can buy spare tubes ei­ther as uncut tubes or already cut into the correct length, complete with retention spring from your specialist dealer.
Changing the tubes
In order to exchange single parts in the upper chain tubes cut the old tube at the retention spring at the chain roller and pull the remain­ing part off the spring. Now move the smooth part of the new tube through the spring and rubber tube, then expand the tube end as de­scribed above.
Changing the complete upper chain pr
o-
tection or the retention spring
Remove the bolt in the chain roller with an Allen key SW 6.Take off the chain roller, the washer and the chain retention hook.
Remember the exact position of the spacers. Take the bolt off the frame together with the chain roller.The end of the threaded tube in the frame is protected with a clear plastic tube.
Take the retention spring off this plastic tube and put on the new retention spring.Turn the spring so that the retention springs run under the spacer to the tubes and the wires lie bet­ween frame and chain tube; that way the spi­rals face outwards.
Push the bolt back through the chain roller, the washer and the chain retention hook, se­cure the thread with threadlocker and tighten the bolt with 17–19 Nm.The recessed side of the chain roller has to face to the frame. Make sure the washer is placed between chain roller and plastic tube / frame.
Changing the lower chain tube
The chain tube is connected to the mounting plate by a rubber sleeve. For dismounting the chain tube, grab the sleeve on its rear end and pull it together with the chain tube to the rear. The rubber sleeves will release the rear tongue of the mounting plate then. Swivel the chain tube sidewards. Having done that pull the chain tube to the front to release the sleeve from the front tongue of the mounting plate. Replace the chain tube and mount it by following the above steps vice versa.
You can change the position of the lower chain tube by turning the mounts in which the clips are fastened.The ideal position depends on the position of your front boom and your chain length.After you have undone the screws a lit­tle bit turn the mounts so that the chain bends the least possible.The chain tube must not touch the fork or the rear swing arm in all gear situations.
40
HP
Velotechnik
Chain roller
The chain roller guides the chain below the seat to the rear wheel and is an essential part of the HP VELOTECHNIK No Squat design. It en­sures that the suspension is not influenced by pedaling.
Compared to other models the chain roller has a big diameter and it has a higher section in the middle to make the chain move as smoothly as possible. Due to this higher sec­tion the chain does not lie on the roller with its sharp edged links but with the bushes in the middle that function like small bushings. In addition to a very low rolling resistance it also supports a quiet chain movement.A chain re­tention hook between the frame and the chain roller locks the roller at the bottom and keeps the chain on the roller when you pedal back­wards.
The chain roller wears slowly and gradually shows a sprocket shape in the higher section in the middle.When this middle section is worn completely the links of the chain will run on the roller. In that case you will notice that the chain makes more noise while running and you should change the roller. You can pur­chase the plastic part without the bearing or the complete roller through your dealer.
The chain roller is not symetrically shaped; the recessed side of the chain roller has to face to the frame, the flat side outwards.
The bearings must not be treated with a jet of water from a high-pressure cleaner or with solvents since it destroys the seals and remo­ves grease in the bearings. If the bearings don't move smoothly anymore you'll have to replace them.
Dismounting the chain r
oller
See the notes on changing the chain tube on page 39.
The chain roller is mounted with a special high strength screw of the German strength grade
12.9 and it may only be replaced by a screw of the same type and strength.
Chain roller
Caution! If this chain retention hook is
missing the chain may fall down.When you start pedaling then the chain roller, the seat or the frame may be damaged through the chain. Please consult your local specialist dealer in case you have lost this hook.
Caution! The roller comes with two main-
tenance free sealed bearings.The bearings
are exchangeable. Between the bearings
there is a spacer that keeps the correct dis-
tance. If you forget to put in the spacer after
you have dismounted the bearings they will
be destroyed when you tighten the screw
while remounting them.
Maintenance and care
41
HP
Velotechnik
Suspension fork
The dust boot is very important for the func­tionality and the lasting of your fork. Unlike many other suspension forks the CONCEPT sus- pension system has a closed dust boot, that means it also does not show any openings for ventilation since the ventilation happens within the steerer tube into the clean air inside the frame.
Please check the correct and sealed position of the dust boot at the top and the bottom before each ride.At the bottom the dust boot shows a slot on the inside that has to fit the washer above the fork crown.
Also check the condition of the dust boot. In no case may it show any cracks or holes.
If any dust or dirt enters due to wrong assem­bly or damage the wear of the bushings and the spline mechanism increases considerably.
Suspension fork
Changing the spring
If the spring stiffness does not meet your needs you can order another spring with a dif­ferent stiffness from your dealer and have him mount it.
You can distinguish the dismounted springs by their color:
medium, 19 N/mm: red hard, linear, 24 N/mm, yellow
(Values valid for Concept-suspension from 10/2005 on.)
The following assembly instructions are for the bicycle mechanic:
You can exchange the springs from the bottom of the fork.
Dismount the front wheel. If a mudguard is mounted you will have to undo the screw at the fork crown and remove the mudguard.
Clean the fork and the dust boot diligently. Then remove the safety ring inside the lower end of the steerer tube. Please keep in mind that there is a slight preload on the spring and that it comes out quickly together with the lower spring support after you have removed the ring.
Remove the washer, the spacer and the lower spring support.The upper spring support and the plastic tube that surrounds the coil spring might come out, too.
Change the spring and fasten the spring sup­ports at the ends of the spring. Push the plastic tube back over the spring.
42
HP
Velotechnik
Lubrication
After some use it may be advantageous for the performance to lubricate the fork after it has been dismounted and after the bushings have been cleaned.
Only use the special Concept lube, this lubri­cant is for the use at the upper bushing and the elastomer strip of the Linear Friction System below the upper bushing.
You can buy this lubricant from your HP Velotechnik dealer
Put your bicycle on a work stand so that you can dismount the front wheel and the front fork.
Dismount all add-on parts from the fork (front wheel, brakes, computer sensor etc.). Undo the clamping screw of the stem.
Unscrew the end cap from the outer tube. Then remove the end cap by unscrewing the hex headed screw on its top.The end cap must be held tight.You may have to hold the piston rod under the fitting cap in place.
Suspension fork
Spacers that may come with the spare spring have to be mounted below the spring.Then put the whole package again into the steerer tube.
The spacer has a hole for the screw of the mudguard.Align the hole in the spacer with the thread on the back of the fork crown and push the spacer in the steerer tube.
The upper spring support has to click in no­ticeably on the lower end of the piston rod in the steerer tube so that there is only a 3 mm preload of the spring necessary to put back the safety ring in its position in the slot in the steerer tube.
In order to check whether the safety ring is­correctly seated in its slot take a screwdriver and push slightly on the ring, it must not move then.
Before taking a first test ride always check whether all parts have been mounted correctly and the fork works smoothly by pushing sev­eral times on the frame of the parked bicycle.
Caution! In any case either the spring sup­port or a spacer has to be directly over the safety ring, never the spring itself.
Maintenance and care
43
HP
Velotechnik
Now cautiously pull the fork down out of the outer tube.Take care that you don't turn the outer tube relative to the inner steerer tube while working on it, since the fork has to be remounted in exactly the same position as it has been dismounted.Therefore mark both tubes with a pen in order to keep the correct position.
Clean all bushings and surfaces with a dry cloth. For lubrication only use the appropriate lubricant recommended by us. Other lubri­cants or chemical cleansing agents may have a negative impact on the performance of the synthetic bushes or the linear friction damping system.
Apply the lube thinly and evenly to the surface of the spline guide and the entire surface of the steerer tube as well as the inside of the lower and the upper bushing. Finally remount all parts in reverse order.
In doing this take care that you keep the posi­tion of the steerer tube in relation to the out­er tube as described above.
The spline guide of the lower bushing must not be damaged while inserting in the steerer tube.
The conical ring below the upper bushing must face downward with the slope surface.
The upper bushing and the spacers must not come out at the top while inserting the steer­er tube.
Adjusting the fork play (instructions for the mechanic)
The linear support of the suspension fork and the transmission of the steering forces is done by a spline system in the steerer tube and the lower bushing as well as by the upper bushing.
With the practical adjusting system you can adjust both the smooth performance of the system and the range of the play through the lower adjusting nuts.
It may be necessary to adjust the bearing after the first break-in phase, later on the adjust­ment is only necessary in exception.
The adjustment of the fork play requires spe­cial tools and skills. Please have your bicycle mechanic perform this maintenance work.The following section refers to the expert.
The adjusting nuts for the fork play are pro­tected through the frame tube, therefore you will have to dismount the fork prior to adjust­ing it.
Dismounting the fork
Dismount all add-on parts (front wheel, brakes, computer sensor etc.) from the fork. Undo the clamping screw of the stem and re­move the stem together with the bearing cov­er from the top of the outer tube.
Now take a rubber mallet and carefully hit the cap to remove the outer tube by pressing it downwards through the bearings.
Grab the dust boot at the top and remove it from the lock nuts at the lower end of the outer tube.
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After you have unmounted the fork you can also unmount the bearings and the upper bearing-cup with a fitting soft aluminum tube. This is not necessary when you only want to adjust the fork play.
Adjusting the bushing
The lower bushing is conically shaped at the outside. It fits in a corresponding conically shaped part of the outer tube.
By turning the lower nut the bearing is pushed into the outer tube and thus squeezed togeth­er which reduces the play between the bushing and the inner steerer tube.
First undo the two adjusting nuts by undoing the lock nut that lies above and then undoing or tightening the lower nut until the steering mooves smoothly and has optimum play.
Please note that the bushing has possibly to be pushed out of its conically shaped fitting again when the adjustment is too tight.
Then you tighten the lock nuts against the lower nut and refit the dust bag in its slot be­tween the lock nuts.
Mounting the fork
If the lower bearing (metric, inner diameter 40 mm) has been dismounted remount it with a tool (tube, inner diameter approx. 40,5 mm, outer diameter approx. 51,5 mm) as far as it will go down on its beading.
Push the outer tube of the fork from below through the steering head until the lower bearing fits the frame.
Push the upper bearing (metric, inner diameter 40 mm) on the outer tube and fit it into the upper housing. Refit the bearing cover and the stem.
It is very important that all bearings fit their housings completely. For this purpose dis­mount the front wheel and the brake and put the bicycle on the ground. Put the tool above the stem on the outer tube and press all bearings into their beadings by hitting lightly on the tool.
In order to check the correct fitting of the bearings see if the following criteria are ful­filled:
the bearing cover has no play between the bearing and the stem, and it can only be
turned with effort
the upper edge of the bearing lies in
accordance with the upper edge of the frame
Finally make the front wheel of your bicyle bounce several times heavily on the ground to check whether the bearings still fit tightly.The criteria mentioned above still have to be ful­filled after this test.
Suspension fork
Maintenance and care
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Section cut of the CONCEPT-suspension unit and parts list
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Rear suspension element
Rear suspension element
Changing the steel spring (DV-22)
You can buy the spring for the rear suspension element in different spring stiffnesses from your dealer.
We recommend the following spring stiffnes­ses, depending on the overall weight:
up to 80 kg (183 lbs): 450 lbs./inch up to 100 kg (230 lbs): 550 lbs./inch up to 120 kg (275 lbs): 650 lbs./inch
In addition to this, your dealer can also use springs with other spring stiffnesses or special lightweight springs made of titanium.
In most cases the stiffness is printed onto the spring.Take care to read the imprint carefully, since the term "B650" that sometimes occurs does not mean 650 lbs./inch!
Spring length: DV22: 83 mm (70-90 mm)
In order to change the spring you will have to remove the rear screw and swing away the re­ar frame.
For doing this hold the main frame of your bi­cycle in a work stand.
If there is a safety spring at the thread of the suspension element take it out of its slot in the threaded section. Now you can undo the adjustment ring completely and then turn it to the utmost position at the front. Remove the slotted spring retention disc at the rear end.
Undo the screws of the rear suspension ele­ment with two Allen keys and push the screw out of the suspension element’ eye.
Move the rear swing arm down carefully. In doing this, take care that you don't bend or stretch any cables.
Remove the spring from the suspension ele­ment and put on the exchange spring. Make sure that the new spring has the same diame­ter and length as the old spring and that it lies safely on the adjustment ring.
Put back the slotted rear spring retention disc on the piston rod. If necessary, compress the spring a little bit.The spring retention disc has to match its seating at the rear end of the su­spension element.
Danger! If the bicycle does not stand on the ground while undoing the screws of the suspension element the rear swing arm may come down uncontrolled afterwards and hurt you seriously. In addition to this the ca­bles of the gear system and the brakes may overexpand and you would have to replace them. Ensure that the rear swingarm comes down in a controlled and gentle fashion by putting up a solid string or zip tie between the main frame and the rear swing arm.
Danger! When the bicycle is standing on the ground the frame and the swingarm come up against each other. Please make sure that this happens in a controlled and gentle fashion. Put a cloth between the con­tact points. Otherwise, if they come up against each other uncontrolled your hands may get caught between main frame, rear swingarm and suspension element and your bicycle may be damaged.
Maintenance and care
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Secure the spring by tightening the adjustment ring until the spring doesn't have any play any­more. If there is a safety ring, push it back into the slot on the thread.
Move the rear swingarm back up and connect the rear end of the suspension element with the rear swingarm with the bolt. Lubricate the bolt thoroughly.
Secure the screws of the suspension element with threadlocker (e.g. Loctite 243) and tigh­ten the screw with 6–8 Nm.
After having exchanged the spring you have to readjust the spring pre-load as described in the chapter on "Adjusting your new bicycle" on page 18.
Cleaning and lubricating
Clean the suspension element, especially the polished piston rod, if it is dirty. Remaining dirt and sand can damage the seals of the hydraulic system and so shorten its life considerably. We recommend you to protect the suspension element from dirt with an elastic cover that you can buy at your local dealer when riding on dirty roads regularly.
From time to time grease the thread for the spring preload with a drop of acid-free oil. Thus, you can always turn the adjustment ring easily by hand. Once a year you have to grease the pivots of the suspension element. For that purpose dismount the suspension element as described under "Changing the Spring" on page
45.
Remove the plastic spacers and pull the metal tube out off the bushing. Lubricate the bushing and the tubes with grease. Finally remount the suspension element.
Hydraulic dampers are effected by wear and tear through normal use. It depends on the usage of the bike, the amount of dirt on it and the maintenance and lubrication how long it lasts.After 3000 km the damper must receive an inspection by a trained mechanic, worn out parts or the hydraulic cartridge can be repla­ced then. Due to wear of the seals oil can leak drom the damper.The internal oil can become foamy.This may lead to some noise when the damper is working.This noise does not effect the function of the damper. Only if there is no obvious damping after the first 5 mm of travel, the damper should be replaced.
Please also note the maintenance instructions of the damper manufacturer provided with your bike.
The bushings of the rear spring element need to be lubricated once a year.
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Swing arm pivot
Swing arm pivot
The rear swing arm pivot comes with mainte­nance free bushings.They feature a self lubri­cating system with Teflon particles. The bush­ings sustain a very high load and they show al­most no wear.
In case you notice play or a creaking noise at the rear swing arm please check the two screws that keep the axle in the frame.They have to be secured with threadlocker.
Tightening torque: 17-19 Nm
Danger! If the screws at the axle are not tight enough this leads to play and noises when the spring compresses. In extreme cases the swing arm may come loose which leads to a serious fall. If the screws are too tight the thread of the axle may tear out or the screw may be damaged.
Caution! There has to be a big washer be­tween the main frame and the end of the bushing else the busing is not able to func­tion without play and the frame will be dam­aged.
The bushings are exchangeable. For that pur­pose you will have to dismount the rear swing arm and send it together with the axle via your specialist dealer to HP V
ELOTECHNIK
.After having been mounted the bushings are ma­chined to adjust them.
Undoing the axle screws
In order to mount the rear rack or the lowrider the axle screws have to be undone. We recommend you to leave one screw in place to prevent the axle from turning.
In case the rear swing arm is to be dismount­ed completely you can prevent the axle from turning by inserting a thin metal rod in the hole of the axle through the drilling of the rear swing arm under the axle.
You can prevent the axle from turning by inserting a thin metal rod in the hole of the axle.
Maintenance and care
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Seat cushion
The standard seat cushion consists of a 1,4 cm thick layer of flexible EVA foam. This is a black material with closed cells that is also used in the production of high quality camping mats. It feels very comfortable without appearing too soft or spongy. It is waterproof so that you can dry your seat with a sweep of your hand in case your bicycle has become wet.
For better ventilation, there is an airflow cush­ion available as accessory.
This cushion consists of several layers: a soft foam and a rigid mesh which provides for an approximately 1 cm thick air cushion with ex­cellent circulation.These two layers are wrapped up in a cover that consists of fine mesh like it is known from high quality Rucksacks.
You can wash the material at 30° centigrade and it dries very quickly. In case you want to wash the seat cushion take it off the seat.Then open the Velcro at the back and take out the foam cushion and the Airflow insert.
Raincover
To keep the seat dry when your bicycle is parked you can additionally purchase a rain­cover. It can be carried in the optional Microbag or in the bag the ErgoMesh seat is equipped standard with.
Seat cushion
Caution! The seat cushion is fastened with
Velcro and you can take it off. For this pur­pose it is important not to simply grab the foam and take it off since the Velcro could come off. In order to take off the seat cush­ion lift up the upper part a little bit from the seat.Then you grab the cushion on both sides together with the end of the Velcro that sticks out slightly and remove the cush­ion slowly. In case the Velcro comes off fas­ten it again with contact adhesive.
Caution! Never expose the seat cushion to extreme heat or focused sunlight.The mate­rial warms up considerably.The heat may melt the glue of the Velcro.The seat cushion can be damaged when the rays of the sun are bundled through a lens.Take care to nev­er leave any bubble wrap on the seat in the sun.The air bubbles in the film act like a burning glass and shrink the seat cushion.
Caution! Don’t sit down on the raincover. It may get broken.
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Water bottle cage
You can mount 2 water bottle cages behind the seat with a special adaptor.This sheet met­al part is mounted between the standard BodyLink seat support and the seat shell itself at the middle connetion of seat and frame.The adaptor must be mounted so that the bent side comes close to the seat.
If you don’t have a lowrider, the adaptor can be positioned so that the water bottles are lo­cated in the middle area of the seat.With a mounted lowrider the adaptor must be turned so that the water bottles are located under the lower seat.
The derailleur tube at the front of the frame comes with threaded inserts for an additional water bottle cage.
Another useful alternative to water bottles are systems with a "water bag" and a drinking hose, e. g. from S
OURCE or CAMELBAG.You can
simply strap them behind the seat, onto the rear rack or into the Speedbag.
Water bottle cage
Maintenance and care
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Mudguards
At bicycles with suspension mudguards are ex­posed to very strong vibrations through which may break them. Please check the stays of the mudguard regularly for their position and check the mudguards for cracks or deforma­tions. Immediately exchange damaged mud­guards.
In order to prevent falls you have to fasten the stays of the front mudguard with a security clip that opens under pressure.When the clip has opened once please replace it with a new one.
After you have performed service work or re­placed mudguards check if the wheels turn freely. Between mudguard and wheel has to be a distance of at least 7 mm.
Check whether the suspension can still fully compress with mudguards mounted.The mud­guards, stays and screws must not touch other parts even under maximum compression.
Wheels
The correct air pressure is decisive for smooth running and a good protection against punctures.The maximum pressure is printed on the side of your tire. On suspended wheels of your Speedmachine you can always go for the maximum pressure.You might find an indi­cation of the minimum required pressure on the side of the tire as well.
Since the tubes in the tires gradually loose air you should check the air pressure before every ride.
The tubes come with Presta valves (also called french valves).They are very airtight and easy to pump up. For that purpose first undo the valve cap. Now you see a small threaded rod with a knurled nut that comes out of the valve. Undo the knurled nut by loosening it as far as it is possible.
To pump up the tire and check the pressure you need a pump with a gauge,preferably a solid standing air pump. Put the knob of the pump on the valve, push it completely on the valve and then retract it a little bit. Now you can pump up your tire easily.
Mudguards,Wheels
Caution! You must not mount additional
parts like rear lights or reflectors to the mudguards since they may break then.
Danger! If branches or other obstacles get caught in the wheels while riding and are moved around they may drag the mudguards along.The mudguard can possibly fold up be­tween frame and tire and hence block the wheel which may lead to a serious fall. If you hear any unknown noises while riding stop immediately and remove anything that might cling to the mudguards or the wheels.
Before pumping up the tire, you have to unscrew the little knurled nut on the valve.
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After you have pumped up the tire to the maximum pressure pull off the pump knob. Secure the valve by turning the knurled nut on the threaded rod as far as it will go towards the valve. Finally put on the valve cap again.
The tires will be worn out, very much varying with your riding and braking style. Braking too powerful, so that the wheels lock reduces the life time expectancy of your tires dramatically.
When you exchange tires please note the ma­ximum width limit of 50 mm (approx. 2 "). We recommend tires that are 32-40 mm wide.At the front wheel you have to use tires of ISO size 406 (20"), at the rear wheel ISO size 559 (26").The tire width possible at your bicycle depends on the size of your rims. Please ask your local dealer.
After you have exchanged the tires please check if the wheels turn freely and check the minimum distance between mudguards and frame.
The spokes of the wheels connect the rim with the hub.At the Speedmachine with disc brakes they additionally transmit the braking power of the disc brakes.
The wheels are fastened with a quick release lever and therefore they are susceptible to theft. For this reason always lock the wheels along with the frame to a solid object when you park your bicycle somewhere. It is also possible to exchange the quick release axles with axles that have special security locks (e.g. P
ITLOCK) that can only be opened with a spe-
cial tool.
Cleaning and conservation
The frame of the Speedmachine has a high quality and environmentally friendly two layer powder coating.The surfaces of the aluminum parts are either polished or anodized.
To keep the surfaces brilliant over many years and to protect them effectively against corro­sion the bicycle has to be cleaned from dirt and then conserved. Dried sweat and environmental influences such as air pollution, dirt on the roads and especial­ly grit affect the parts, and not only may this cause flaws but also serious structural damage of the parts through corrosion.
In contrast to a widespread belief particularly the "non-rusting" aluminum is dramatically af­fected by grit! This kind of damage may not be visible in the beginning but it leads to a serious danger when the part breaks.
Wheels, Cleaning and conservation
Danger! Never pump up your tires beyond
the maximum pressure.The tire may burst while riding or come off the rim which may result in a serious fall.
Danger! Check your tires on a regular basis for damage.You should exchange tires with worn threads or damaged sidewalls. Damaged rim tapes have to be exchanged immediately. Damages at the tires may lead to a sudden burst of the tire and thus result in a serious fall.
Danger! Take care that your spokes are al­ways in perfect condition and the spoke ten­sion is balanced. Do not ride with wheels that run untrue or wheels with loose or missing spokes.These faults may lead to a total failure of the wheel while braking and result in a serious fall!
Caution! To true up the wheels you need special skills, please have this work done by an experienced bicycle mechanic.
Maintenance and care
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Do clean and conserve your bicycle diligently!
The best things to clean your bicycle with are warm water and a soft cloth. If your bicycle is very dirty first take a wet sponge to soften the dirt and then remove it. In case of bad grease or oil stains you should use a special cleansing agent for bicycles in addition.
While cleaning your bicycle check it for any cracks, scratches, deformations, damaged parts, loose spokes etc. If you are in doubt please consult your local bike shop.
In case of small scratches at the surface of the powder coating of the frame or the surface of the seat you can simply polish them away.You can buy a special polishing agent for epoxy resins at a specialist dealer for boat builders. Do not use a polish for metal!
After you have cleaned the bicycle dry it and treat the paintwork and the metal surfaces with wax.You can purchase this wax from your local bike dealer as a convenient spray.
The wax passes moisture and flows into tiny gaps and pores.After some minutes the sol­vent evaporates and leaves a dull and glutinous film. Now polish the waxed parts of your bicy­cle with a soft cloth to make it real shiny.
Do not only wax the frame but also the spokes, hubs, screws and nuts etc.You can also conserve the chain with wax spray after lubri­cating it, see also the chapter on "Chain", page
36.
The frame has small holes for ventilation that prevent condensation in the frame.These drilling holes must not be sealed. However, moisture may enter the frame through the drilling holes.Therefore protect the inside of your frame by applying wax spray through the holes.
Protect the parts where cables or chain tubes may scratch the frame.You can buy special stickers at your bike dealer or extra strong transparent tape at your do-it-yourself-store. That way you avoid scratches in the powder coating and coating coming off.
Caution! Do not use any cleansing agents that scrub or are chemically aggesive since they affect the paintwork. Before using any cleansing agent please test it at a part of your bicycle that is not immediately visible.
Caution! Do not use any high-pressure cleaner.The strong jet of water goes through the seals of the bearings, blows away the lube and causes corrosion of the bearing parts and the chain. In addition to this it may damage stickers.
Caution! Any damage of the paintwork has to be cleaned from corrosion and repaired immediately, else the damaged part in the frame gives way to corrosion that nests in the surrounding paintwork.This can result in damage of the frame.
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Storing the bicycle
Before storinge your bicycle over a longer pe­riod of time, e. g. over winter, please take care of the following steps:
Clean your bicycle and protect it from corrosion as described in the chapter on "Cleaning".
Store your bicycle in a dry and warm place.
Avoid direct sun and storage close to the heating since it affects the rubber of your tires.
Choose the smallest sprocket and the smallest chain ring.That way the cables are in the most relaxed position.
The tubes of your tires loose air when standing over a longer period of time. If the bicycle then rests on flat tires the tires may be damaged.Therefore hang up your bicycle or check the air pressure regularly.
The winter months are a convenient period of time for the annual service since then you won't have to wait long for an appointment. Many dealers offer special prices for the win­ter check.
Screws and Bolts
Screws gradually settle in and hence they can come loose.Therefore check the screws and bolts regularly if they are tightened appropri­ately with a torque wrench.
In the following table you will find the pre­scribed tightening torques, they refer to greased screws!
The grease also prevents your screws from seizing in their threads so that they won't un­screw anymore. In particular, screws made of stainless steel are susceptible to this and therefore have always to be put in with grease.
Do use high quality acid free grease, if possible a lubricant with added solid particles like Teflon or MoS
2.Their ingredients still work
properly after the thinner grease has been re­moved from the contact surfaces.
Alternatively you can use threadlocker that you apply to the screw before you put it into the thread.
Always check the screws very diligently for signs of corrosion. Rust at the screw heads may also lead to the screw seizing in the thread.When the metallic and shiny coating of galvanised screws comes off and discloses dull, gray-brown steel you have to exchange the screw.
When you exchange screws please only use screws of the same type. Screws come in dif­ferent strength classes. Please only use gal­vanised screws of the same type and strength, corresponding to the German strength class
8.8 or stainless steel screws grade A2-70, when not given any other recommendation. If you are in doubt please ask your specialist dealer.
Storing the bike, Screws and bolts
Maintenance and care
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Tightening torques for screws
The values indicated are meant for a friction value µ=0,125 (greased threads and screw heads). They only refer to the in­dicated parts. Please do always follow the values given in the manuals of the parts manufacturers since the following val­ues may not be up to date due to changes in the product line!
part connection screw tightening torque
V-brake:
-brake lever handlebar/grip M6 SW5 4 Nm
-brake arms brake arm/frame M6 SW5 5–7 Nm cable clamping M6 SW5 6–8 Nm
disc brake:
-brake lever handlebar/grip clamping M6 SW5 4 Nm
-brake caliper caliper/frame M6 SW5 7–9 Nm
-brake disc disk/hub M4 Torx T25 5–6 Nm
-brake housing brake lever SW8 4 Nm
dynamo dynamo/adaptor M6 SW5 6–8 Nm
adaptor/frame M5 SW4 4–6 Nm
suspension element element/frame M6 SW4 6–8 Nm rear rack at the seat tube M6 SW5 7–9 Nm rear swing arm axle/frame M8 SW5 17–19 Nm b.b. set cartridge/frame 50–60 Nm chain roller roller/frame M8 SW6 17–19 Nm crank crank/axle SW8 35 Nm
chain ring screws SW5 8–11 Nm
hub cassette ring 38–42 Nm quick release wheel/frame 9–12 Nm pedal pedal/crank SW15 35–40 Nm shifting lever twist shifter SW3 2–2,5 Nm
barend shifter SW6 5–6 Nm
rear derailleur derailleur/frame SW6 8–10 Nm
cable clamping SW5 4–6 Nm
mudguard stay/frame M5 SW4 4–5 Nm seat upper seat part / seat mt M6 SW4 5–6 Nm
lower seat part / frame M6 SW4 3–4 Nm
frame front boom clamping M8 SW6 14–16 Nm front derailleur front derailleur/frame M5 SW5 5–6 Nm
cable clamping M5 SW5 4–6 Nm
handlebar handlebar/stem M6 SW5 6–8 Nm ASS-stem fork/stem M8 SW6 13–14 Nm
stem adjustment M6 SW5 8–10 Nm handlebar/stem M6 SW5 6–8 Nm
USS stem length adjustment M6 SW5 8–10 Nm
main axle / bearings SW6 12–14 Nm connection rod / mounts M6 SW5 7–9 Nm
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Warranty
Your authorized dealer has to fully set up and adjust your bicycle, so that safe function is guaranteed.The dealer has to make a final safe­ty check and carry out a test ride.
Your cycle dealer is obliged by law to ensure, among other things, that your bicycle is not af­fected by defects which materially diminish its value of suitability for the described purpose. The exact details will vary according to the country. In Germany, this liability ends two years after purchase.
In addition to this HP V
ELOTECHNIK offers a 10
year warranty on the frame of the Speedmachine against damage through material or manufacturing defects.This warranty applies only to the original purchaser.
Damage trough wear and tear, corrosion or damage at the surface coating is excluded.
Damage through inappropriate use, inadequate care and maintenance, falls, crashes, overload­ing through excess weight, incorrect assembly or modifications to the bike is also not cov­ered.The onus rests with the purchaser.The warranty is void if any of the instructions in this manual are neglected.
The warranty starts with the date of purchase (receipt of the bike dealer) of a new bicycle. The warranty is processed via the bike dealer who ordered the bicycle from us.
In case of damage the dealer has to send the damaged frame to us so that we can check it, if asked to do so by us.
In case of warranty we will replace or repair the damaged part with a part of our choice or a new part equal to the old one (warranty ob­ligation).We do not cover any transport, labour or any secondary costs.
In the event of any action that falls under war­ranty the original warranty period will not be prolonged and no new warranty will be given. If HP V
ELOTECHNIK refuses to count a repair as
warranty case we will only carry out a repair with costs after having talked to the customer or his representative, the respective dealer.
It is mandatory for the purchaser to fill in the enclosed warranty registration form to benefit from the extended warranty.This filled in form has to be sent to HP V
ELOTECHNIK within 4
weeks after the purchase.
The warranty is only valid when the warranty pass at the end of this manual has been filled in when you received your bike and when every inspection listed has been done and recorded by your bicycle mechanic within the described time schedule.
In the event of any warranty the warranty pass together with a copy of the proof of purchase has to be sent to HP V
ELOTECHNIK through
your dealer.
This warranty does not have any influence on the rights of the purchaser according to his statutory rights.
Warranty
Warranty Pass
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Warranty Pass
With the HP VELOTECHNIK Warranty Pass you can assure the safety and proper function of your bicycle for many years.
Like any other vehicle your bicycle has to be checked for safe operation before riding.Your bicycle has to be maintained at regular inter­vals, at least once a year you will have to take your bicycle to a qualified bicycle mechanic for a thorough check.
The service plan on the next page shows you our mandatory maintenance and service works.
If you wish you can set an upper price limit for the service with your bicycle mechanic. If the necessary works exceed this limit you will be informed in advance.
Our tip: You can avoid seasonal waiting periods in spring and summer when you have your annual inspection done in the quiet months from October to January. Many bike shops then have special winter check offers.At any rate do make an appointment. Clean your bicycle prior to the inspection since then many of the checks by sight can be done quickly and at low cost.
Please have your specialist dealer record every inspection and service work in the Warranty Pass.This is a requirement for the validity of our expanded warranty that exceeds the legal warranty.
Warranty Pass
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Service Plan
part work
lighting system check functionality
adjust headlamp and rear light, check cable contacts
clean reflectors, replace missing reflectors
tires check air pressure
check tread and sidewalls
brakes check for damages
check for leaking oil
check rigid feel brake lever blades when pads reach rotor
check brake pads for wear
suspension element clean and oil thread
lubricate bushes
replace worn out parts / hydraulic cartridge
suspension fork check dust boot and correct position
lubricate
check fork play, adjust if necessary
rear swing arm check functioning and bearing play, tighten axle screws
bottom bracket bearings check bearing play
chain grease and check for wear
check wear, exchange if necessary
chain tubes check for wear
expand ends or exchange tubes
chain roller check for wear, check bearing
crank check, tighten
paintwork conserve and repair
wheels check alignement and spoke tension
handlebar check for damage / bends
headset check bearings
Warranty Pass
Warranty Pass
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see page before every ride monthly annually note
31
51
33
45
41
may be necessary after break-
in period, else when
required
47
36
38
40
52
51
13 replace every 2 years
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Warranty Pass
Service plan (continued)
parts work
hubs check bearing play and brake discs mount
pedal check bearing play, check binding mechanism
frame check clamping of the front boom
clean and conserve
check for damage, damage to paintwork
quick release check correct closing
derailleur check for movement and function
clean and lubricate
screws and nuts check and tighten
mudguards check for damage and correct position
valves check for correct position and air tightness
stem check clamping
check clamping screws
cables dismount, lubricate, replace if necessary
This service plan is intended to give you a rough overview over the required mainte­nance and service works. In no case it can re­place the detailed instructions in this manual!
You can perform service works marked with a “
” when you have the required skills and
tools as for example a torque wrench.
When you discover any defects while checking your bicycle they have to be repaired immedi­ately. If you are in doubt please consult your local bike shop.
Works marked with a "" should only be car­ried out by a trained bicycle mechanic.
At the annual service the bicycle mechanic has to carry out all works listed as well as all serv­ices and maintenance works necessary accord­ing to the momentary technical standard and professional knowledge.
Please follow at any rate the manuals of the parts manufacturers.
Warranty Pass
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see page before every ride monthly annually note
52
27
35
55
51
51
13 replace aluminium
stem every 2 years
33
The service intervals given in this Warranty Pass refer to an average use and a riding per­formance of 3.000 km per year.
When you ride more kilometers per year or often ride under bad conditions like rain, grit or other dirty factors it is necessary to have shorter maintenance intervals.
In order to measure your riding performance we recommend to use a bicycle computer.
The regular service maintains the safe opera­tion and the value of your bicycle. Not only does the completed Warranty Pass record the maintenance works for the validation of your warranty but also does it proove the care and the value of your bicycle - a good thing to have when you are going to sell your Speedmachine one day.
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Warranty Pass
service at delivery
At the delivery of a new Speedmachine:
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
(When you assemble a frame kit please list the components on an extra sheet and at­tach it to this Warranty Pass.)
Your personal Warranty Pass
name:
adress:
telephone:
frame no:
(stamped into gusset of the main frame)
I have received the bicycle in good condition. ad­justed to my size and performed a test ride. I have been informed about the correct use of the recumbent, the components like derailleur and especially steering and brakes as well as the necessity of regular service and maintenance. I will read the manuals prior to the first ride and have all future users read them too. I am aware that I need to send the warranty registration form to HP Velotechnik within four weeks of the pur­chase to qualify for the extended warranty.
Date:
Customer’s Signature:
Dealer’s Signature an Stamp::
Warranty Pass
63
HP
Velotechnik
2nd service
No later than 3000 kilometers or one year af­ter the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
1st service
No later than 300 kilometers or 2 months after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
64
HP
Velotechnik
Warranty Pass
4th service
No later than 9000 kilometers or three years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
3rd service
No later than 6000 kilometers or two years af­ter the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
Warranty Pass
65
HP
Velotechnik
6th service
No later than 15000 kilometers or five years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
5th service
No later than 12000 kilometers or four years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
Warranty Pass
66
HP
Velotechnik
7th service
No later than 18000 kilometers or six years af­ter the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
8th service
No later than 21000 kilometers or seven years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
67
HP
Velotechnik
Warranty Pass
9th service
No later than 24000 kilometers or eight years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
10th service
No later than 27000 kilometers or nine years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
Warranty Pass
68
HP
Velotechnik
11th service
No later than 30000 kilometers or ten years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
12th service
No later than 33000 kilometers or eleven years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
69
HP
Velotechnik
Warranty Pass
13th service
No later than 36000 kilometers or twelve years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
14th service
No later than 39000 kilometers or thirteen years after the purchase.
Order No.:
milage approx. km:
Date:
Dealer's Stamp and Signature:
Exchanged or additionally mounted parts:
HP Velotechnik Paul J. W. Hollants und Dipl.-Ing. Daniel Pulvermüller GbR Elisabethenstr. 1
D-65830 Kriftel Tel. ++49 - 61 92 - 97 99 2-0 ● Fax 91 02 18 ● www.hpvelotechnik.com
nik.com
2011
HPVelotechnik
NEW
recumbent technology
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