Hotspot ACWH18 Installation Manual

Air Conditioner Water Heater
Model ACWH18
Installation Guide
IMPORTANT! READ THIS FIRST!
Commissioning of this unit must be done by a licensed HVAC
technician. Commissioning includes making the electrical and refrigerant line connections, evacuating and charging the unit, and starting up the unit for the first time.
end user to perform other parts of the installation. A qualified user would be a user with expert handyman and plumbing skills, who has performed similar work previously, and who has the required tools and equipment.
It is up to the user to determine if a permit is needed and to determine what self-installation work is allowed under local regulations.
Installation of this system must be done in accordance with proper plumbing, electrical and HVAC standards such as those established under NEC, ASHREA, AHRI and IAPMO, and must comply with state and local codes.
The manufacturer accepts no responsibility for failure to follow the applicable standards and codes. Failure to have a licensed HVAC
technician perform the commissioning may void your warranty.
HotSpot Energy LLC
1228 Progressive Dr. Suite 201
Chesapeake VA 23320
info@hotspotenergy.com
1-757-410-8640
The following is an outline of some of the main tasks involved in pre­installing the ACWH. We assume you have the tools and equipment, skills and experience, etc., to perform these tasks. If you do not or if you are not sure if you do, then refer these tasks to a professional.
Read this document entirely before proceeding.
1.Thoroughly read and understand the ACWH Owners Manual. When
doing so, pay extra attention to allowable distances and elevations
between the indoor unit and the outdoor unit, and the allowable distance between the outdoor unit and the hot water tank. Also note the instructions in the owners manual for the indoor unit and condensate drain tube.
2. Determine a proper location for the outdoor unit and set a pad in place. Pre-fabricated pads for air conditioners are available from Lowes
or Home Depot or similar retailers. Alternatively you can select an
exterior wall mount option, or pour your own concrete pad.
3. Unpack the indoor and outdoor units and carefully read and understand all of the enclosed documentation. Place the outdoor unit on the pad. Set the indoor unit inside away from weather.
4. Measure your distances so that you know how much and what type of
electrical lines you will need, verify capacity on your circuit breaker
panel, etc. See the owners manual for AWG and electrical requirements. Measure the water line path between the outdoor unit and tank so you know how much PEX and insulation to purchase and what adapters and fittings are needed.
5. Plan the job and obtain the needed materials. For electrical you may need
Romex or you may be required to used wire in conduit or other option depending on your situation and local code. You may need conduit, PVC or other pipe for the outdoor connections.
For water lines we suggest ¾ PEX. If your run is over 100 ft. one-way it is possible
to exceed this maximum distance by using 1” PEX after performing a pump head
calculation and consulting the pump curve.
If you are at this point and are not sure how to proceed, you are probably not a
good candidate to perform these tasks.
6. Mount the indoor unit on the wall for placement purposes. Make sure it is level.
7. Unpack the line-set and place one end of it near the connection to the indoor unit and place the other end near the outdoor unit. Connect the line-set to the indoor unit. Do not other end. If the line-set is not long enough and you did not
order a 25 ft. extension, your HVAC technician can make one easily if he knows in
advance that he will need to do so. Same applies to the control cable that
connects the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. Make a watertight professional 3”
exterior wall penetration. Fit the line-set and control cable through the hole and carefully bend it towards the outdoor unit. Do this work neatly and carefully, considering the requirements of the drain tube. Use tape to wrap the line-set and control cable. Use the included grommet to seal the hole. Secure the line-set to a wall or other structure so it cannot move in the wind, first making sure you have enough extra line at each end for your connections. Know what kind of structural
and finish materials you are working with and obtain the correct hardware to
properly attach the line-set to the structure. Measure twice! Make sure your line­set and cables are long enough.
8. Before starting installation of the water connections, inspect the water heater for leaks, corrosion or other problems. If the water heater needs to be changed out, now is the right time. If the existing water heater is acceptable, proceed with the following installation.
Fig. 1 Tank Tap
Shown on the next page are options for connecting the water lines from the ACWH to the water tank. One option shown shows the use of the Tank Tap Adapter (shown in fig
1). This adapter is designed to use the boiler drain port as both the supply and return to the ACWH while retaining its drain functionality. Detailed Tank Tap instructions follow at the end of this document. If you did
not order a Tank Tap with your unit, use the
plumbing method.
9. Shut off power to the water heater, if electric, at the fuse or circuit breaker panel. If it’s a gas-fired water heater, close off the gas valve found ahead of the water heater burner and controls. If gas, be sure you know how to turn the gas on and off (including resetting the igniter safety switch) before doing this.
Shut off the cold water supply to the water heater.
10. Empty the water heater by attaching a hose to the drain valve and opening the pressure relief valve. If the draining water appears dirty or cloudy, you may have to refill the water heater and drain it again, until the draining water appears clear and free of sediment.
NOTE: Some water heaters are already plumbed with stubs extending from
the cold water line and the hot water delivery line. Use the cold
water stub, do not use the hot water stub.
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