HOT GRIPS Ergo II User Manual

Installation Instructions for Ergo grips or Model 401 with 2bushings

HOT GRIPS® M anufactured under one or more of the fo llowing Patents: Canada 1,299,621 USA:
4,471,209 4,937,429 4,990,753

Your ATV or motorcycle must have the proper engine alternator to power the heated grips. The grips are a total of 30 watts at 12 volts, or 2.5 amps
of electrical current if measured at a nominal 12 vdc. THESE MODELS MUST BE WIRED IN “SERIES” AS SHOWN IN DIAGRAM.

IMPORTANT: These Hot Grips® are for any motorcycle with .875” (22.22 mm) handlebars and a twist throttle that can accept a grip with the
overall length of 5.20“ and internal bore length of 4.90“. To pre-check the resistance each grip is between 2.2 and 2.6 ohms. You may
temporarily wire the two grips in series and test with 12v.- follow the wiring diagram supplied in “SERIES”.

Read through entire instructions before starting installation. If you cannot comfortably
install this product, hire a professional mechanic to do it.

If you want to pre-test the grips, use a V.O.M. and check that each Hot Grip® resistance measures in the range of 2.2 to 2.5 ohms. You can
temporarily wire them in series (see wiring diagram) and test on a 12 volt car battery or battery charger of minimum 3 amps if you desire.

Hot Grips® are designed to run with engines that have sufficient alternator output to satisfy both the headlight and the heated grips. If your
engine alternator cannot maintain the voltage when all required electrical loads are drawing from the system, then you will not get satisfactory
heat.

Determine how you will align the grips on the handlebars, taking into consideration the safety control levers, and any other items that the grips
may interfere with. Check for clearance with your thumb-throttle if you are installing on an ATV. If the large inboard rubber flange interferes with
full throttle movement, then correct it by trimming the large rubber flange. A new single edge razor blade works well for this. Do not cut within 1/2"
of the lead wires.

Two 7/8" x 1" bushings are included so this kit can be fit to either:an ATV with 7/8" handlebars and thumb throttle in which case you need to use
one bushing on each side. An ATV with 1" handlebars and thumb throttle in which you can throw away the bushings. an ATV with 7/8" handlebars
and twist throttle in which you need one bushing on left side. A motorcycle with 7/8" handlebars in which you need one bushing on the left side.

BUSHINGS: The bushings are slit lengthwise to allow for slight variations in handlebar diameter, some of the metric bars are not exactly 7/8".
If you have a twist throttle be sure to install epoxy only on the first half of the throttle tube and NONE in the interior of the grip to avoid
pushing any epoxy inadvertently inside the throttle mechanism. If you get epoxy in there you will be an unhappy camper. Be very careful not
to force epoxy into the throttle and not to introduce epoxy between the throttle tube and the handlebar. As you install the grip, use a small flat
screwdriver to remove excess epoxy as the grip pushes it toward the inside. You don't want any of the epoxy to get on the throttle housing, or
it would prevent throttle action. The two bushings are supplied just in case the application requires them, such as an ATV with7/8" handlebars
with a thumb operated throttle. On a 7/8" motorcycle with a twist throttle you'd only use one of them on the clutch side. the bushing has an
edge on one end so you can only put it on full length and it then stops. You can do all the epoxy work at one time. Put a very thin amount of
epoxy on the inside of the bushing if the bushing is needed, so as to not artificially expand it more than necessary. You still want the grip to be
able to slide over it. After the bushing is put on the handlebar (the epoxy does not have to have cured, you can do it right away) then epoxy
the outside of the bushing, and then a small amount inside of the grip, and install the grip per the rest of the instructions.

SWITCH AND RESISTOR: The switch can be located at any convenient practical location that you can reach with your left hand that doesn't in­terfere with safe machine operation. (Note that the orientation of the wires in our wiring illustration to the "Hi-Lo" switch plate is correct because
of the switch's internal pivot action.) Drill a 13mm or 1/2" hole to install switch. The resistor may be remotely mounted from the switch, using
any length wires you need.Mount it securely on a metal area such as a metal frame tube where there will be air moving around the resistor to
dissipate heat. It will warm up during "low heat" operation. It is not in use during "off" or "high". The resistor should be secured with nylon wire
ties or other means on a metal surface in air flow. Do not mount it in your housing as an oven effect will take place and cause damage.

WIRING: There is no polarity to the wires on each grip, i.e. no positive or negative. Follow the wiring illustration. A good ground is
important so be sure to scrape the paint off the "ground connection" as a layer of paint may create a problem. Ground should be
to the engine or frame, not the handlebars, since some of them are rubber-mounted and may affect a good ground connection.
Similarly the steering head bearing grease may interfere with a ground connection. Some machines use a wire or "common-wire
ground" instead of "frame-ground". The grips must be wired in "series", as shown.

Do NOT Expose to Oils/Solvents: These grips are manufactured out of a synthetic rubber that will
not crack from sun exposure. Synthetic rubber is manufactured as a petroleum by-product and oils
are used as “modifiers”. Do NOT expose grips to oils or solvents or the “rubber” will be “modified
irreversibly” and ruined. Example, if you treat the palms of your leather gloves with MINK OIL it will
slowly rub itself into the grips and chemically alter the rubber so that it will become gummy, sticky,
and wear quickly because of degraded physical properties.

TOGGLE SWITCH: The diagram switch wiring is correct, the toggle switch sends power to the upper terminal when the switch
is moved to “Lo”. When the switch is moved up to “Hi” the power is sent to the bottom terminal, thus bypassing the Resistor.
There is a pivot mechanism inside the toggle switch which you cannot see, and that is why moving the switch to “LO”
sends the power up to the top terminal.

END WEIGHTS: or other need to open the ends: If the model you have purchased is not supplied with open ends, and you
need to open them, you may bore out the outboard ends of the grips for installation of end weights or other purpose. Use a
fine tooth hole saw and do not go larger than the handlebar’s inside diameter. We recommend at most 7/8”(22 mm) diameter
and be sure to center drill carefully. DO NOT use a hacksaw or you will destroy the grip, because there are resistance wires
molded into the grip outboard of the handlebar diameter. A Dremel® tool can be used with a very coarse abrasive stone
wheel or cylinder. These Hot Grips® have a heat output of 7 watts on “low” and 15 watts on “high” per grip. As a pair they
will consume 18 watts of electrical power on “low” and 30 watts on “high. They consume more than 7 x 2 on “low” because
the resistor consumes some electrical current.

PREPARATION: Remove old grips and any adhesive residue from the handlebars with solvent or compressed air. Do NOT
rely on a press fit since the grips will expand when heated up, and could become loose, and thus unsafe. The grips rely

on 2-part slow-cure high temperature epoxy bonding to remain secure.

WIRING: The wires should be carefully secured to the handlebars. Use the cable ties supplied with the ATV or additional ties.

On the throttle side, make sure that the lead wires form a gentle loop with a radius of about 3” so there is no stress on the wires
as you move through the throttle range of motion. Also, make sure the wires are not hitting anything as you move them through
the range of motion of the throttle. Make sure the wires do not interfere with the brake lever in your plan before epoxying the
grips on.

EPOXY: Dry fit the grips FIRST and determine where to position the wire exiting the throttle grip prior to permanently installing

the grips. Hot Grips® recommend only slow curing (generally considered 6+ hours, or overnight) two-part epoxy because it is
generally rated at 250 degrees F ( 120 degrees C.). The quicker curing epoxy is generally rated at 200 degrees F (94
degrees C.). DO NOT use other types of adhesives. DO NOT use silicone sealant, crazy glue, superglue, other cyanoacrylate
adhesives, weatherstrip adhesives, or anything else. Only use two-part epoxy of the type recommended. There are many
brands available, (ex: DURO, DEVCON, POXY-WELD, JB WELD, BORDEN.) They are commonly available at auto parts
stores, hardware stores, and is often found in Big Box store hardware or automotive departments. The reason Hot Grips®
Mfg., Inc. does not want you to use anything other than epoxy is because of the temperature these grips may reach in
service, and because other types of adhesives rely on solvent evaporation, which may take a very long time to cure. Most
other adhesives will soften and creep with elevated temperatures, and you don’t want these grips to loosen while riding.

After you have pre-determined your grip’s external lead wire orientation in relation to the throttle housing, then you can
proceed to use the epoxy. Mix the epoxy per the manufacturer’s instructions. It is important to mix in the correct ratio or the
epoxy will be weakened. Use a long slender object such as a pencil to get the epoxy spread evenly on the exterior of the
handlebar, BUT NOT INSIDE THE GRIP. The pencil can be rolled around the handlebar or throttle tube to ensure the layer
of epoxy is even or uniform thickness.

DO NOT PUT EPOXY IN THE GRIP INTERIOR unless it is being placed over one of our split bushings, instead allow the
epoxy on the handlebar to find it’s way inside the grip as it is pushed on. The reason? You don’t want to gum up your throttle

mechanism from the outboard end inward. The epoxy will mesh with the inside ribs, locking the grip in place once the epoxy
cures. While aligning the external lead wires where you want them, push the grip on the handlebar fully, and you should clear
away epoxy as it is slid on if it builds up excessively as the grip moves fully into position. Again make sure you have clearance
for your levers and throttle movement so no interference will exist. T his is extremely important, since once the epoxy cures,
you won’t be able to adjust later. Never pull the throttle side grip off after you have started pushing it on an epoxy covered tube,
or when reintroducing the grip to the throttle tube you risk getting epoxy under the throttle tube, which will ruin your day. Never
force a grip on with a hammer, instead file any interfering ribs off the throttle tube so the grip is an easy slip fit. You want a slip
fit so the epoxy isn’t squeegeed off when installing. If you are in a hurry for it to cure, it is OK to quicken the cure by temporarily

wiring the two grips in “series“" as shown in our wiring diagram, putting the switch on “LOW” and applying 12 volts using a car

battery or a battery charger capable of at least 3 amps. 45 minutes will do it, but do not leave the grips heated and unattend-
ed. Let it cool for another 15-20 minutes. The heat will have accelerated the cure from the normal 6-8 hours down to about an
hour. If the epoxy hasn’t cured you may need to give it heat again. If the second time doesn’t cure it, then you probably mixed

the epoxy in the wrong ratio, which prevents the epoxy from curing. Do not test the epoxy bond while it is curing by twisting the
grip. If you want to check if the epoxy has cured, check it at the area where a tiny amount of epoxy has squeezed out next to
the inboard end of the grip. Wait until the epoxy is very hard. Repeat for installing the other grip.

Hi-Off-Lo SWITCH: Locate a suitable site for your switch and drill a 1/2" or 13 mm hole in a safe convenient
location that does not interfere with anything on the motorcycle. In some cases you will have to improvise a
mounting area. Generally an area with access from the left hand is most appropriate.