HOT GRIPS 575-875-ATV User Manual
Installation Instructions for ATVs models with the following
part numbers
475-875-ATV, 525-875-ATV, 575-875-ATV, 475-100-ATV and
525-100-ATV
IMPORTANT: Read through entire instructions before proceeding.
Protected under one or more of the following patents: USA: 4,471,209 4,937,429 4,990,753
Canada: 1,299,621
If you do not have the ability to install these grips then
hire a professional mechanic to do the installation.
These Hot Grips® are for any ATV with .875" (22.22 mm) handlebars and a thumb throttle. If you have a twist throttle
you must purchase our model for motorcycles instead, because the throttle tube requires a larger right side grip I.D.
To pre-check the resistance each grip is between 8 and 10 ohms depending on the grip's overall length. You may
temporarily wire the two grips in parallel and test with 12v.
END-WEIGHTS OR OTHER NEED FOR OPEN ENDS: If the model you have purchased is not supplied with open
ends, and you need to open them, you may bore out the outboard ends of the grips for installation of end weights or
other purpose, if you use a fine tooth hole saw and do not go larger than the handlebar's inside diameter. We have
molded in a visual guide on the grip's ends, and we recommend at most 7/8"(22 mm) diameter and be sure to center
drill carefully. DO NOT use a hacksaw or you will destroy the grip, because there are resistance wires molded into
the grip outboard of the handlebar diameter.
These Hot Grips® have a heat output of 7 watts on "low" and 13 watts on "high" per grip. As a pair they will consume
18 watts of electrical power on "low" and 26 watts on "high. They consume more than 7 x 2 on "low" because the
resistor consumes a little electrical current.
PREPARATION: Remove old grips and any adhesive residue from the handlebars with solvent. There is a slight
variation in handlebar diameters, so some may be loose, and some may be tight. Better to file a tight handlebar down
until it fits than to force the Hot Grip® over it. DO NOT rely on a press fit since the grips will expand when heated up,
and could become loose, and thus unsafe. They rely on epoxy bonding to remain secure.
WIRING: The wires should be secured to the handlebars. On the throttle side, make sure that the lead wires do not
interfere with the thumb throttle action. Also make sure the wires do not interfere with the handlebar clutch and/or
brake levers before epoxying the grips on.
EPOXY: We recommend only slow curing (generally considered 6+ hours, or overnight) two-part epoxy because it is
generally rated at 250 degrees F ( 120 degrees C.). The quicker curing epoxy is generally rated at 200 degrees F (94
degrees C.). DO NOT use other types of adhesives. DO NOT use silicone sealant, crazy glue, superglue, other
cyanoacrylate adhesives, weather-strip adhesives, or anything else. Just use two-part epoxy of the type we recommend. There are many brands out there, and some of them are DURO, DEVCON, JB WELD, Borden, etc. Out of the
USA they may be called by another name. They are commonly available at auto parts stores, hardware stores, and is
often found in hardware or automotive departments. (The reason we do not want you to use anything other than
epoxy is because of the temperature these grips may reach in service, and because other types of adhesives rely on
solvent evaporation, which may take a tremendous amount of time. Most other adhesives will soften with elevated
temperatures, and can allow the grips to slowly rotate and you don't want these grips to loosen while riding.)
After you have pre-determined your grip's external lead wire orientation in relation to the throttle housing and thumb
throttle lever, then you can proceed to use the epoxy. Mix the epoxy per the manufacturer's instructions. It is important to mix in the correct ratio or the epoxy will be weakened. Use a long slender object such as a pencil to get the
epoxy spread evenly on the exterior of the grip, BUT NOT INSIDE THE GRIP. The pencil can be rolled around the
handlebar to ensure the layer of epoxy is even or uniform thickness. DO NOT PUT EPOXY IN THE GRIP INTERI-
OR , instead allow the epoxy on the handlebar to find its way inside the grip as it is pushed on. The epoxy will mesh
with the inside ribs, locking the grip in place once the epoxy cures. While aligning the external lead wires where
you want them, push the grip on the handlebar fully, and you should clear away epoxy as it is slid on if it builds up
excessively as the grip moves fully into position.
Again make sure you have clearance for your levers and thumb throttle movement so no interference will exist. This
is extremely important, since once the epoxy cures, you won't be able to adjust later. If you are in a hurry for it to
cure, it is OK to quicken the cure by temporarily wiring the two grips in "parallel" as shown in our wiring diagram,
and applying 12 volts using a car battery or battery charger capable of at least 3 amps. 45 minutes will do it, and
do not leave the grips heated unattended. Let it cool for another 15-20 minutes. That heat will have accelerated
the cure from the normal 6-8 h ours down to about an hour. If the epoxy hasn't cured you may need to give it heat
again. If the second time doesn't cure it, then you probably mixed the epoxy in the wrong ratio, which prevents the
epoxy from curing. Do not test the epoxy bond while it is curing by twisting the grip. If you want to check if the epoxy
had cured, check it at the area where a tiny amount of epoxy has squeezed out next to the inboard end of the grip.
Wait until the epoxy is very hard. Follow similar instructions above when installing the other grip.
WIRING: Follow our wiring diagram, there is no polarity to the two external wires coming from each grip, no posi-
tive nor negative. IMPORTANT: These models are wired in "Parallel", meaning each grip gets 12 volts. Your ground
connection is important, so scrape the paint off immediately under the contact point you make. Ground shouldn't be
to the handlebars since some are rubber mounted and perhaps electrically isolated from your system. The two Hot
Grips® must be wired in "parallel". Connect one of the two conductors from each grip to positive 12 volts coming off
the switch as illustrated, and each remaining wire to ground. Pilot light (not supplied with kit) is Radio Shack item
and can be installed if you want it. #272-345 or #272-334A or #272-331C. Wire it for 12 v. in parallel as indicated
(see dotted line) and ground one of the leads of the pilot lamp.
SWITCH: Locate a suitable site for your switch and drill a 1/2" or 13 mm hole in a safe convenient location that
does not interfere with anything on the ATV. In some cases you will have to improvise a mounting area.
RESISTOR: Mount the resistor securely in an area where it can give off some heat, since it warms up during "low"
heat operation, not on plastic as it may damage lower temperature plastics. Ideally mount it on a "pad" of silicone
sealant on a metal area and mount it in open air. Secure it with common nylon wire ties as nylon can take the heat.
The resistor may be located any distance away from the switch or grips, however do not leave the resistor dangling
by it's lead wires, or they will eventually fail. You can use any extra lead wire from the grips to wire the resistor.
Solder all connections as a precaution against copper oxidation in the future. Be sure no interference exists during
full range ofhandlebar motion. Use care in locating the lead wires to avoid wear.
POWER SOURCE: Many ATVs come with an accessory electrical terminal, Ask your dealer's service department
if in doubt. Often your owner's manual will include a wiring diagram, and may have information on where to obtain
power for accessories. In any case you will want a power source that does not remain "On“ when the ignition key is
off.
FFFUSE: You should use a 4 or 5 amp fuse if there are other fuses on your electrical system (not included with this
kit.). (The grips normally will draw 2.5 to 3 amps on high). Wire into an accessory terminal if available or into a
power lead that will not be left "hot" or energized when the ignition is shut off. Otherwise leaving the heated grips
on while the engine is off will drain the battery as quickly as if you left your headlight on. If your electrical system
doesn't use fuses to protect the headlights then you don't need them for the Hot Grips®.
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