Hotchkis 1104 User Manual

1104 64-72 GM A-Body/ 1108 70-81 GM F-Body

1104 - Tubular Lower A-Arms 64-72 GM A-Body

1108 - Tubular Lower A-Arms 70-81 GM F-Body

Thank you for your purchase from our new line of A-Body parts.

Please call us at (877) 4NO - ROLL if you have any questions

regarding the service or installation of your Hotchkis products.

Visit us online @ www.hotchkis.net

Tubular Lower A-Arms:

Your new Hotchkis tubular lower A-Arms are stronger and more aesthetically pleasing than the
original OEM control arms. They are equipped with durable Delrin bushings that are designed
to rotate independently of the arm and inner sleeve, which dramatically increases the bearing
surface and ensures longer bearing life. Since you’re getting rid of the stock rubber bushings
in place of the stiff Delrin bushings, handling and steering response is dramatically enhanced.
Your Hotchkis A-Arms also have polyurethane spring pockets, which can be shimmed up or
down allowing for 1” of ride height adjustment. These A-Arms are compatible with stock or
aftermarket coils (such as our 2” lowering springs kit # 1900

Block,

1916 64-66 Big Block, 1917 67-72 Big Block ).

Your Hotchkis A-Arms are 100% bolt-on. If you have not done so already, we suggest using
our Tubular Upper A-Arm Package (Kit #1103 A-Body or #1106 F-Body) in conjunction with
the lowers to maximize your vehicle’s handling and response.

64-66 Small Block, 1901 67-72 Small

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Notes:

Although your Hotchkis A-Arm was designed for stock or aftermarket coils, the
installation with aftermarket coils is dramatically easier than the OEM coils. This is due
to the much longer free length of the OEM coils compared to most aftermarket coils.

Before You Start:

Please read the entire manual before starting. Most pictures shown are of the driver
side a-arm. Please perform the same procedure for the passenger side.

1. Raise Vehicle

Raise the vehicle and put it up on jack stands. You may also use a 2-post or 4-post lift.

1104 64-72 GM A-Body/ 1108 70-81 GM F-Body

2. Remove the Front Sway Bar End links

Disconnect the sway bar form each lower A-Arm by removing the sway bar end links.

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3. Remove the wheels

Remove both front wheels

4. Undo the Top Shock Mount

Using a combination of wrenches and/or allen keys and remove the top shock mounting
nut. Save all shock bushings and hardware for reinstallation.

1104 64-72 GM A-Body/ 1108 70-81 GM F-Body

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5. Undo the Bottom Shock Mount

Remove the 2 bolts that secure the bottom shock mount and remove the shock from the
vehicle. Keep all bushings and hardware for reinstallation.

1104 64-72 GM A-Body/ 1108 70-81 GM F-Body

6. Disconnect the Outer Steering Tie Rod Ends

Locate the outer tie rod end and remove the cotter pin using a pair of dikes. Use a
11/16” wrench to unfasten the tie rod end castle nut. Hit the steering arm with a
hammer to knock the tapered stud out. Allow the tie rod to hang down.

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7. Loosen Lower Ball Joint Nut

Locate the lower ball joint nut near the outboard end of the a-arm and remove the cotter
pin using a pair of dikes. Use a 7/8” wrench to loosen the castle nut. Do not completely
remove this nut! Leave 3 or 4 threads left on the nut.

1104 64-72 GM A-Body/ 1108 70-81 GM F-Body

8. Break Loose the Lower Ball Joint Stud

Using your trusty hammer, hit the spindle until the stud pops loose. The castle nut is
there to keep the spring from launching the lower a-arm down.

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