2. Bill of Materials .....................................................................21
2
Page 3
SHOTSHELL RELOADER INSTRUCTIONS
To help you load completely satisfactory ammunition the first time you operate your 366 Auto,
these instructions have detailed steps of operation and adjustment to help in avoiding problems.
To begin loading shot shells, you will need powder, shot, primers and wads, in addition to empty
hulls. Before purchasing any of these components, first note what charge the standard bushing
furnished with your loader will throw by weighing your charge. Listed on the label on the outside
of the carton is a powder bushing and shot bushing number which is referenced to a powder weight
and brand, as well as shot amount and type.
STANDARD LOADS AND BUSHINGS
If the referenced powder in not available, refer to the recommended load chart furnished with this
loader. This chart will show the other powder weights and brands it will dispense. It is not to be
taken for a reloading manual. Loading data from the major powder manufactures is furnished,
when available, to help you in getting started. Unless you have experience in shot shell reloading,
ask your dealer to help you pick the best starting combination, or contact Hornady’s Reloading
Advisory Center.
IMPORTANT: Never mix powders or use unidentified powder. Do not use smokeless powder
in old firearms until the firearm is certified safe. Do not exceed recommended loads.
Your 366 Auto is a precision machine. It is the only loader to feature full-length resizing with
each stroke, automatic primer feed, swing-out wad guide, three stage crimping with taper-loc for
factory tapered crimp, automatic advance to the next station and automatic ejection with the option
of a gas assisted automatic advance.
This press should give you many years of enjoyable, trouble-free service. Any problems that you
have can generally be corrected by slight adjustments of the dies and punches in each station. If
you are unable to correct the problem, please write us or call:
Hornady Mfg. Co.
PO Box 1848
Grand Island, NE 68802-1848
800-338-3220
DO NOT RETURN THE LOADER TO YOUR DEALER.
3
Page 4
SETTING UP YOUR 366 AUTO
Mount your 366 Auto securely toward the front of a sturdy bench. All operations of the press are
to a full stop, so the operating handle must clear the bench when in the down position. Since the
shells are ejected down a chute, out the back of the loader, you may want to set your loader up on
riser blocks (010060) to provide access to the completed shells. An alternate method to catch
finished shells would be to cut a hole in the bench and place a box underneath.
1. Before filling the shot and powder hoppers, turn the measure assembly upside down and
carefully push the charge bar out and check the powder and shot bushing numbers.
2. Your loader was furnished with standard bushings, 12 GA. 1 ⅛ oz. #7 ½ shot, 468 Powder
Bushing; 20GA. ⅞ oz. #9 shot, 393 Powder Bushing; 28 GA. ¾ oz. #9 shot, 303 Powder
Bushing; 410 GA. ½ oz. #9 shot, 291 Powder Bushing but double check to insure you will
dispense the correct weight of powder and shot.
3. While the charge bar is removed or pushed back, check that the measure casting seals
(rubber washers) are in the recess in the measure casting.
4.Reinstall the bushings and push the charge bar back in place. If the powder slide should
drop out of the measure assembly, do not disassemble the measure plate.
5. Replace the powder slide by pressing it in from the side against the detent spring, pull
spring back and fit into slot.
6. Reinstall the measure assembly by tilting the casting as you slip the measure plate and shot
rotor spring under the hold down washer, and the charge bar into the slot of the charge bar
cam.
7. Secure assembly in position with measure attaching bolt.
8. Install the primer tube in the die head casting and fill the primer tray according to
instructions furnished with it. Do not fill the tube at this time.
9. Check the individual stations of the loader for alignment to make sure nothing has loosened
during shipping. Shut off the powder slide (push in) and the shot rotor (pull forward) while
checking each station.
READ THIS SECTION BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO LOAD AMMUNITION!
4
Page 5
FUNCTION AND ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 1: Function and Adjustment
The following is a detailed description of the operation and adjustment of the 366 Auto
Reloading Press. This press has been pre-adjusted at the factory for Remington STS cases, but
every person has a preference about how the finished product should look, so some changes might
be necessary. The reloader should begin by advancing a single shell through each station to familiarize himself with the operation and adjustment of each position. The illustrated
discussion which follows shows the 366 with all eight stations filled. Since your first shell will be
the only one in the loader, be sure the shot and powder slides are off at the beginning of the sequence.
Sort your shot shells by brand and type. Refer to the loading manuals provided for
recommended loads for your shot shells.
5
Page 6
Step 1: STATION 1A (Resize and Deprime)
Fig. 2: Resize and De-Prime
Place an empty shell in Station 1A, making sure the deprime punch enters the case mouth
and the shell is reasonably centered under the size die (#14). Pull the operating handle (#37) to the
bottom of the stroke. Make sure nothing interferes with the handle reaching bottom. When the
operating handle is pulled, the platen casting (#107) rises until the eccentric arm stop (#111)
contacts the base casting (#100). At this point, the shell should be completely enclosed in the size
die (#14) and there should be no gap between the size die ring cap (#19) and the platen casting
(#107). When the handle (#37) is returned, the de-prime punch guide (#8) pushes the case from the
die. The expander (#8) is threaded on the deprime bolt (#62) which is forced down by the clevis
link (#13) attached to the head casting (#7). The size die (#14) should size the brass head and rim
to permit the chambering of that shell in any firearm. Properly adjusted, the size die (#14) just
contacts the platen casting (#107). All other dies are set from this adjustment point, but are
designed with all stations full. Interference with the handle (#37) can cause light powder charges
or primers not seated properly. The size die (#14) and the size die ring cap (#19) must be kept tight
at all times.
6
Page 7
Step 2: STATION ONE (De-prime Only)
Fig. 3: De-Prime
Insert the case in station.
1. Normally, at this time, we would fill the primer tube (#2), but since we are working with a
single shell, drop only one primer from the tray (#1) into the primer tube (#2). Now pull the
handle (#37). As the handle (#37) makes a complete cycle, the shell will automatically
advance to the next station also dropping the primer into the hole in the primer seat pad
(#3). Some individuals may wish to bypass Station 1A but a shell must be in place in
Station 1 before pulling the handle (#37). The shell automatically advances on the return
stroke and if Station 1 is empty, there will be a gap in the reloading sequence.
Primer Drop: Until you are more familiar with your reloader, always return the handle
smoothly and, at first slowly. The primer is dropped when the shell plate (#45) contacts the
plastic primer drop stop unit (#78) at the bottom of the down stroke, and spreads the fingers of
this unit, allowing the primer to slip into the hole provided in the shell plate (#45). At this
point, make sure that the metal portion of the primer feed body (#42) does not make contact
with the shell plate. Such contact will turn a burr on the inside and prevent primers from
falling.
The primer seat pad (#3) is notched to improve the primer drop, but the primer only falls at
the speed of gravity, so the handle (#37) must not be raised too rapidly, or the primer could be
jammed between the shell plate (#45) and the platen casting (#107). Therefore, operate the
handle smoothly, and only as fast as primers will reliably drop into the primer seater pad (#3).
7
Page 8
Step 3: STATION TW0 (Prime)
Fig. 4: Prime
Pull the handle (#37) through a complete stroke. The primer seating punch (#20) or the
optional spring loaded primer seater punch (010051) will enter the case and push the case
down, over the primer in the primer seating pad (#3). On the return stroke, the primer seating
pad (#3) will push the case back up into position and the shell plate (#45) will advance to the
next position. Before continuing the loading sequence, remove the primed case, to inspect the
primer seat depth. To remove, lift the pawl (#94) from the indexing position and rotate the
shell plate (#45) back to station one and inspect the seated primer. The primer should be flush
with the case head. If the primer is not fully seated, the primer seater punch (#20) must be
adjusted. Different brands of cases have different base wad heights. Replace the case in
position at Station Two. Loosen the primer punch lock nut (#23). Pull the handle (#37) down,
and steadily lower the primer seater punch until you feel the punch start to interfere with the
handle (#37). The primer seating punch (#20) should then be backed up just enough to
eliminate any interference. Your loader was factory set to load the low base wad of the modern
compression formed type cases and may not need any adjustment. The primer seater pad notch
should be on your right as you face the loader.
8
Page 9
Step 4: STATION THREE (Drop Powder)
Fig. 5: Powder Drop
Before pulling the handle (#37), pull the powder slide (#69) toward you. The spring (#71)
will lock the slide in place in the second slot of powder slide(#69). The powder drop is now
on. During the stroke, the powder bushing will advance to the Powder Drop station.
Normally, we would leave the powder slide on, but since we are taking one shell through each
step, push the powder slide back and shut off the powder. (Do this before pulling the handle
again.)
There is no adjustment to the powder drop, but the drop tube should be kept clean and dry and
must be able to float freely in the head casting. To clean the drop tube, use brake cleaner to
remove all oils.
9
Page 10
Step 5: STATION FOUR (Wad Seating)
Fig. 6: Wad Seating
Insert a wad in the wad guide (#106A). Pull the operating handle (#37) through a complete
stroke. When the handle (#37) is pulled, the spring (#106B) around the wad guide rod (#105)
turns the wad guide bracket (#101) to align the wad with the case. The unit then rises until the
wad is stopped with the platen casting (#107) by the wad ram (#48). The case continues
upward until the spring fingers (#77) have entered the case mouth, and then pushes the wad
guide (#101) upward until the wad is seated in the case. The spring fingers (#77) have enough
resistance to prevent the wad from going through until the spring fingers (#77) are in the case.
At the completion of the return stroke, the wad guide bracket (#101) will swing forward for the
next wad to be inserted. The wad guide bracket should have 1/8” clearance above the
shells. The empty shells vary in length so a closer setting would not be beneficial. Be sure the
wad seating ram (#48) is set high enough for the wad to swing into position with out being
folded by early contact with the wad seating ram (#48). Wad pressure is adjusted by raising
or lowering the wad seating ram (#48). Most one-piece plastic wads today will self-adjust
when the shell is crimped. Generally, the wad should be seated to allow 5/8” clearance
between the case mouth and the shot.
10
Page 11
Step 6: STATION FIVE (Shot Drop)
Fig. 7: Shot Drop
Before pulling the handle (#37), rotate the shot shut-off (#70) backward, turning on the
shot. Now, lower the handle (#37). The shot drop tube (#47) enters the case mouth and then
both case and shot drop tube (#47) rise together to the top of the stroke. In this fashion, all the
shot enters the case without being spilled. No adjustment of this station is possible. Upon
completion of the stroke, the shells will advance to the next station. Normally, we would leave
the shot drop on, but since we are taking a single shell through the sequence, rotate the shot
rotor (#70) forward to shut off the shot.
11
Page 12
Step 7: STATION SIX (Crimp Start)
Fig. 8: Crimp Start
As you lower the handle (#37), the shell at Station Six enters the crimp starter (#82). The
plastic body has ridges on the inside to align with the old crimp and restart the folds. The
outside of each crimp starter (#82) has a ridge corresponding with the inside, so if manual
alignment is necessary with damaged crimps, follow these ridges. A hole in the case mouth of ¼” should be left when the shell completes this station. Hornady loaders come with eight
point crimp starter installed, but if you are using another crimp, substitute with either smooth
for paper or six point plastic, included with your loader. The plastic starter unit unthreads from
the rod (#65) extending through the main body. The amount of “start” may be adjusted, but too
much can cause the wall of the case to collapse, producing a defective shell.
12
Page 13
Step 8: STATION SEVEN (Crimp)
Fig. 9: Crimp
As you pull the handle (#37), the shell in Station Seven will enter the crimp die (#59). The
shell will contact the inside of the die and raise the die body (#59) as it goes up. It will then
contact the crimp plunger (#58) and the crimp will be closed. On the return stroke, the shell
will be pulled from the crimp plunger (#58) but the crimp die (#59) will keep pressure on the
case to retain the proper shape. Since different manufactures’ cases have varying types of
construction, different settings are required for best results. The two-stage die enables the user
to create a reloaded round that has approximately the same tapered mouth as a factory shell.
There are two adjustments to the crimp die assembly (#57, #58, and #59); the larger outer
position adjusts the die body (#59), the threaded bolt through the center of the die adjusts the
crimp plunger (#58). To adjust the die, refer to the number of threads exposed above the large
die body locking nut (#15) as reference points for each brand of case. For Winchester AA type
shells, ten to ten and one half threads should remain above the locking ring (#15); for
Remington Blue Magic and Federal Gold Metal Cases, eleven to thirteen threads should be
exposed. These measurements are approximate and may need adjustment up or down,
depending on the plastic and components, but should be correct in most situations. Before
adjusting the crimp the crimp die (#59), the crimp plunger (#58) should be raised a few turns
by loosening lock nut (#15) and turning the crimp die bushing (#57) clock wise. Then, make
the necessary die body (#59) adjustments, and follow by crimping the case. At this point, the
case mouth will not be closed. Lower the crimp plunger (#58) in small increments, each time
recrimping the shell until the final desired crimp depth is obtained. The crimp depth is up to
you, but excessive depth shortens case life, while a crimp that is too shallow will not yield
uniform velocity or good patterns. A good practice is to keep a factory round on hand for
reference
13
Page 14
Step 9: STATION EIGHT (Taper Crimp)
Fig. 10: Taper Crimp
The taper crimp is a smooth crimp starter (#82) and will taper the finished case better than
factory loads. As the shell at Station Eight enters the taper crimp die (#59), the mouth of the
shell will be “rolled.” On the return stroke, the shells advance, but the shell in Station Eight
contacts a cam in the platen casting (#107), moves to the left, and drops through a hole in the
platen casting (#107) down the chute (#108) to the back.
Adjustment of the taper crimp (#82) is done by loosening the lock nut (#29) and raising or
lowering the taper crimp starter (#82) to obtain the desired taper on the case mouth.
At this point in a normal reloading sequence, you would have a completed shell at each
station. To begin reloading, go back to the beginning and follow instructions for Step 1
and Step 2, but this time fill the primer tube (#2) when you insert a shell in Station One.
As the shells advance around the loader, remember to turn on the powder and shot when
the shells advance to the positions, and to reinsert a shell at Station One and a wad in the
wad guide after each pull of the handle. You can continue the sequence until all your
empty shells have been reloaded but always remember to check the powder and shot
hoppers (#80) and make sure a primer drops on each stroke. If you refill the primers,
shot and powder after each 100 rounds, you will never load shells without components.
14
Page 15
ADJUSTMENT OF AUTO ADVANCE
Fig. 11: Adjustment of Auto Advance
When the operating handle (#37) is pulled all the way up, a spring (#98) swings the pivot
arm (#85) and the advance pawl (#94) to your right. The hook of the pawl rides in the gap
between the shell plate (#45) and the shell plate ring (#110). On the return stroke, the roller on
the base casting (#100) contacts the curve on the pivot arm (#85) and the entire unit is cammed
toward the left, advancing the shells to the next position. The cam bearing (#12) is mounted
off-center on the bolt (#25) so when it is turned, the cam bearing is shifted right or left. If an
adjustment is necessary, loosen the lock nut (#28) and turn the eccentric bolt (#93) with a
screwdriver. It is necessary to hold the eccentric bolt (#93) with the screwdriver when
tightening the nut (#28).
15
Page 16
TROUBLESHOOTING
Handle will not come to bottom of stroke
Do not force the handle (#37). If you meet with any resistance, shut off the shot and powder
and slowly return the handle (#37) back to normal while unlatching the rotating pawl (#94).
1. Check to see the loader is mounted near the front of the bench, allowing the handle (#37) to
come completely down.
2. Check to see if the size die body (#14) adjustment has changed or if the size die ring cap
(#19) has loosened.
3. Check that the de-prime punch guide (#8) is threaded all the way up on the size die ejector
bolt (#62).
4. Check to see that you are not seating a second primer on top of an already primed case.
5. Check the primer seater punch (#20) to see if it is adjusted too low. Readjust to seat the
primer when the handle (#37) is depressed.
6. Check to see that you aren’t trying to seat a second wad on top of another and the wad
entered the shell correctly.
7. Check to see that shells are in alignment and the correct shell is in each station.
8. Check for an obstruction inside the shell which would prevent you from depriming or
repriming the case.
9. Check to see that you aren’t trying to load a high base wad shell when you are set up for
low base wads.
10. Check to see if a loaded shell has rolled underneath one of the eccentric arms.
Handle will not turn to normal position on backstroke.
DO NOT FORCE THE HANDLE. Shut off the powder and shot and unlatch the rotating
pawl (#94).
1. Check the clevis link (#13) to see if it is bent and hanging up on the size die eject bolt
(#62). Replace if necessary.
2. Check the primer seater station to see that the primer was fully seated. If not, lower the
primer seater punch (#20).
3. Check to see that the wad is being fully seated and not pulling back up into the wad guide
bracket (#101).
16
Page 17
4. Check the wad guide bracket (#101) to see that the wad guide return spring (#106B) is
attached and that the bracket is fastened to the wad guide rod (#105).
5. Check the charge bar cam (#9) adjustment to see that it hasn’t slipped.
6. Check for an obstruction, spilled shot, etc., between the shell plate ring (#110) and the
platen casting (#107). If there is, you may need to rotate the pawl (#94) clock wise and
take the shell plate nut (#91) off and lift the shell plate (#45) off the platen (#107) and clean
out the shot. When the shot is cleaned out, replace the components in reverse order as you
took them off.
7. Lift each shell up against the shell plate (#45) to see if a primer flange may be catching in a
platen casting (#107) indention.
8. Check to see if the shell plate (#45) is dragging on the shell retainer spring (#63).
9. Check to make sure the primer was fully removed at Station One.
Primers do not drop or drop erratically.
If primers do not drop into the shell plate (#45), or drop erratically, shut off the shot and
powder and unlatch the rotating pawl (#94).
1. Make sure the primer feed body (#42) is adjusted low enough to open the primer stop unit
(#78) which allows a primer to drop.
2. Check alignment of primer feed body (#42) with the shell plate (#45). The taper of the
primer feed body (#42) should enter the chamfer in the shell plate (#45), but not touch.
When there are no shells in the crimp die (#59), pressure on the size die (#14) may tip the
platen casting (#107) enough to cause erratic drop. When possible, make adjustments with
all stations full.
3. Check that the auto advance unit (#83) is fully advancing and stopping in the correct
location.
4. See that the primer feed body (#42) is not burred on the inside, preventing the primers from
dropping freely. If burred, remove with small file.
5. Check the primer feed body (#42) to see that it is not burred on the ends and that it is
straight.
6. Inspect the plastic primer top unit (#78) for flash around the fingers and make sure that the
foot moves freely on the body.
Wads are not seating properly, tearing or tipping.
Shut off the powder and shot and detach the rotating pawl (#94) and return the handle (#37) to
normal position. DO NOT force the handle (#37) back, as it may not be able to move due to the
17
Page 18
swinging wad guide (#101). You may have to cut the wad in half if it cannot be pushed through
into the case.
1. Check your operation of the tool, making sure you allow enough time for the wad to
correctly align with the ram. The wad guide (#106) should be set to swing out just far
enough for easy insertion of the wad; swinging too far will delay the bracket.
2. Make sure the wad guide bracket (#101) clears the shell by about 1/8” so the spring fingers
(#77) enter the case mouth before the wad starts through.
3. Check shell length; variations may cause the case mouth to catch on the bottom of the wad
guide (#106); preventing it from aligning correctly.
4. Check the E clip (#104), which is about 3” from the bottom of the wad guide rod (#105), to
see if it has slipped or broken off the wad guide rod (#105); it could allow the wad to move
through the spring fingers (#77) before they enter the case mouth.
5. Check the spring fingers (#77) to see if they are broken or weak.
6. Check the shells to see that the case mouth is opened up enough to allow the wad to be
seated. Case mouths which are too tight must be flared open, either by hand or with an
expander in the size die (#14) or de-prime station (#1A).
Crimp is concave or opens after being ejected from die. Crimp not satisfactory in
appearance. Detach the rotating pawl, shut off the powder and shot.
1. If the crimp is concave (sinks):
a. Reduce the wad seating depth to see that the shot comes to about 5/8” from the case
mouth in the crimp starter station.
b. Check to see if powder slide is turned on.
c. See if you have correct powder bushing.
d. Make sure the wad length is correct for the case you are loading.
e. Check to see if the shot bushing is correct. Adjust the crimp plunger (#58).
2. If the crimp is bulging open:
a. Check to see if you have seated the wad deep enough.
b. Inspect powder bushing to insure correct powder charge used.
c. Check shot bushing for shot size used.
d. Make sure you have the correct wad length for load being used
18
Page 19
e. Double-check all components to make sure they are the correct ones for the specific
load.
f. Check adjustment of crimp plunger (#58).
3. If the finished shell does not have enough taper in the end or is flared, lower the taper
crimp die (#82) (Station Eight).
4. If crimp isn’t deep enough, turn the crimp plunger (#58) in the final crimp down.
5. If the shell swirls in the center, the plastic shell has elongated or stretched. No adjustment
is generally possible to remove the swirl. This is common, and was probably in the factory
shell.
6. Check to see that you have the proper crimp starter (#82) installed. Eight point for most
plastic target cases, six point for most plastic hunting loads and smooth for paper cases. If
the case buckles at the mouth or wrinkles after final crimp or during the crimp start, raise
the crimp starter. Also check to insure you have the correct components.
Converting to another gauge.
If you purchase a die set for a different gauge, always remember to start installation by
adjusting the full length size die (#14) FIRST! When adjusted properly, the size die should just
contact the platen (#107) at the top of the stroke. Then, install other dies and punches using the
size die (#14) as a guide. Stations should be adjusted by actually reloading a shell. The exception is
the primer seating pad (#3) to ensure seating the primer to the full depth of the primer pocket.
Adjust the wad ram (#46) to provide best crimp (except as noted in sinking crimps or bulging).
By showing you how to “fine tune” and troubleshoot the 366 Auto, we hope to save you
downtime and maximize your reloading enjoyment. Your 366 Auto is a fine progressive
reloader…once the first cycle is completed; it kicks out a finished shell with every stroke.
ABOUT WADS AND WAD PRESSURE: We recommend the use of 1-piece plastic wads. They
are more convenient, and do not require any specific wad pressure. They need to be seated only
deep enough to obtain a satisfactory crimp.
PLEASE NOTE: Normally, few problems are encountered when reloading shot shells. However,
variations in the powder lot, different brands of primers and other components can cause
substantial changes in pressure. Hornady Mfg Company has no control over the components and
equipment which may be used with this published information; no responsibility is implied or
assumed for modern firearms and does not exceed manufacturer’s pressure recommendations.
Further data may be obtained from:
Hercules Powder Company Dupont Explosive Products Winchester Division
Mr. Don Burton Mr. Don Wenner Mr. Ted Henshaw
910 Market Street Wilmington, DE 1938 Olin Corp.
Wilmington, DE 1939 Shamrock St.
East Alton, IL 62024