Thank you for purchasing a Hope Technology disc brake system. Please read the
contents of this service manual to fully acquaint yourself with the correct installation and
safe operation of your brake.
1.1. Instruction manual coverage
This manual covers the installation and servicing of the hydraulic disc brake calipers
XC4, Closed 2, Open 2 and DH4, and the brake levers Pro and Sport.
This manual also covers our two discontinued brakes called the Sport and Pro. For
reference purposes the Pro disc brake is identical to a Closed 2 caliper supplied with a
Pro lever, the Sport disc brake is identical to a Closed 2 supplied with a Sport lever.
New 2001 products – please refer to section 7 for late additions to this manual.
1.2. Safety first
This brake system must be fitted by a competent cycle mechanic using the correct
tools. Incorrect installation can result in brake failure that can cause serious personal
injuries.
Your braking performance will improve in almost all riding conditions but care must be
taken to ride within your own ability. The stopping power of any bicycle is always limited
by the traction of the tire on the ground so take the time to become familiar with your
new brake and its braking characteristics.
Before each ride always check the brake for proper function and the brake pads for
wear and that there is no system damage resulting in fluid leaks.
If you have any doubts or questions please contact your dealer or the appropriate Hope
distributor for your country.
1.3. System identification
There are four caliper designs, the XC4, Closed 2, Open 2 and DH4. Each of these
calipers can be used with either a Pro or Sport lever.
The Pro and Sport levers are supplied in either a Closed or Open system configuration
depending on which caliper is being used.
The following table shows examples of each caliper. The caliper profiles can vary
depending on the disc rotor size and bolt mounting pattern and the table shows
common examples.
5
Caliper identification
The XC4 caliper
A small caliper with 4 pistons. The
caliper has the word HOPE
machined into the side.
Closed system.
The caliper must be used with a
closed system lever.
The Closed 2 caliper
A caliper with 2 pistons. The caliper
has the word HOPE machined into
the side.
Closed system.
The caliper must be used with a
closed system lever.
165mm front caliper shown.
The Open 2 caliper
A caliper with 2 pistons. The caliper
has the letter ‘O’ machined into the
side of the caliper below the Hope
logo.
Open system.
This caliper must be used with an
open system lever.
185mm front caliper shown.
The DH4 caliper
A caliper with 4 pistons. The caliper
has the word HOPE O4 machined
into the side.
Open system.
The caliper must be used with an
open system lever.
6
Lever identification
The Pro lever
Closed system configuration
A two finger lever with a silver pad
adjustment screw.
The Pro lever
Open system configuration
A two finger lever with a fixed master
cylinder cap.
The Sport lever
Closed system configuration
A four finger lever with a silver pad
adjustment screw.
The Sport lever
Open system configuration
A four finger lever with a fixed
master cylinder cap.
Under no circumstances should you use a Closed system caliper with an Open system
lever (and vice versa). A mismatched system will not work and result in brake failure.
7
2. Installation
The disc brake system is supplied fully assembled and bled, i.e. containing brake fluid.
The Cycle Dealer is responsible for supplying the caliper with the correct bolt mounting
pattern to fit your particular fork or frame. Some installations may require an additional
mount bracket as advised by your dealer.
In the first instance it is recommended that you install the brake as supplied without
disconnecting and routing the hose through frame guides (if present) or attempting to
shorten the hose. Once you have experienced the fully working brake you may decide
at a later date to make some hose routing or shortening modifications as described
later in this manual.
2.1. The bicycle wheel
The wheel should be built by a skilled wheelbuilder using a 3 cross lacing pattern and
correctly tensioned. Your dealer will advise whether the hub in your wheel is compatible
with this Hope disc brake. There are two types of compatible hubs; splined Hope hubs
that require a 5 bolt disc spider (purchased separately) and International Standard 6
bolt hubs (made by Hope and other hub manufacturers) where the disc rotor bolts
directly to the hub.
2.2. Attaching the disc rotor to the hub
For Hope splined hubs fit the spider to the hub splines
and ensure it is squarely seated before securing it with
the spider lockring. Hubs using a spider require a disc
rotor with a 5 bolt pattern.
Attach the disc rotor to the hub with the orientation of the
rotor arms as shown in Figure 1 (6 bolt disc rotor shown).
It is recommended that a mild engineering adhesive
often referred to as ‘threadlock’ is used on the bolt
threads to prevent them unscrewing. Do not use a
permanent adhesive or this will prevent removing the
disc rotor at a later date.
Replace the wheel with the attached disc rotor in the
forks (or frame) making sure the wheel axle is sitting
square in the dropouts and that the wheel skewer is
correctly tightened.
FORWARD ROTATION OF WHEEL
Figure 1
8
2.3. Attaching the lever
Attach the lever assembly to the handlebars and route the caliper down to the fork disc
mount or along the frame to the rear disc mount. Take care to avoid situations that can
damage the brake hose when the bicycle is used such as trapping the hose within
suspension fork or rear suspension linkage movements, and also to avoid chaffing on
the tire.
The lever will work in any position providing the master cylinder is not totally upside
down. The master cylinder need only be horizontal when bleeding the system.
2.4. Attaching the caliper
Before attaching the caliper ensure that the brake pads are fully retracted in the caliper.
New brakes will be supplied fully retracted, if you need to perform this operation
yourself then on the XC4 and Closed 2 brakes turn the brake lever master cylinder
screw adjuster anti clockwise (see Figure 4). For the Open 2 and DH4 brakes remove
the pads to avoid damaging them and gently prise the pistons back with a plastic tire
lever (or similar).
The aim is to position the caliper central over the disc rotor using some of the supplied
shim washers between the caliper and disc mount to achieve the central positioning.
This is trial and error until the correct position is achieved.
When the caliper (and lever) are attached, secure the hose to the frame using ties or
hose guides and check for unrestricted handlebar movement and that the hose is not
trapped or pinched.
2.5. Personal settings
Finger reach
This refers to the position of the lever blade relative to the bars. There are two
procedures for setting the reach depending on whether you have the Pro or Sport lever.
For the Pro lever slacken the grub screw
A (see Figure 2) then adjust the position
of the lever using the adjuster screw B.
When the correct position is achieved
gently tighten the grub screw A.
Figure 2
9
For the Sport lever adjust the grub screw
C (see Figure 3) at the front of the lever
to achieve the desired position. Then
undo the locknut D and adjust the screw
E leaving a small amount of freeplay in
the lever. Re tighten the locknut D.
Figure 3
Lever travel (pad position)
This is the amount of lever travel between the brake’s off
and on position.
For the XC4 and Closed 2 brakes this can be set using
the screw adjuster on top of the lever master cylinder
(see Figure 4, Pro lever shown). Screwing clockwise will
move the pads closer to the disc rotor thus reducing lever
travel, screwing anti-clockwise moves the pads away
from the disc thus increasing lever travel.
For the DH4 and Open 2 brakes there is no manual
adjustment and lever travel is determined by the piston
seals in the caliper body which retract the pads. When the brake pads have been
manually retracted (by pushing the pistons back into their bores) these calipers will
require several pulls of the lever to reset themselves, during this period the lever may
travel all the way to the bars.
Figure 4
2.6. Break in period
Before riding check the correct action of the brake and that braking effort is applied as
the lever is pulled. To achieve the maximum braking effort the new brake pads need
bedding in. Bed in the pads by riding a short distance with the brake applied, it also
helps to pour clean water over the caliper and pads whilst bedding in. This procedure
will achieve good braking performance but will reach its full potential after a few rides.
2.7. On the trail
The XC4 and Closed 2 brakes
These brakes feature the thumbwheel adjuster (see Figure 4) on the brake lever master
cylinder which is used to adjust the position of the brake pads relative to the disc rotor.
Turning clockwise will move the pads closer to the disc rotor, screwing anti-clockwise
moves the pads away from the disc. There are two situations where adjustment is
necessary :
1. Compensating for pad wear. As the pads wear you need to reposition the pads
closer to the disc rotor.
1
2. Compensating for over heating. Extreme heating of the brake due to long descents
with heavy braking may cause the brake fluid to expand and push the brake pistons
(and pads) closer to the disc in which case you may need to back off the pads using
the thumbwheel adjuster, then readjusting as the brake cools down.
The DH4 and Open 2 brakes
These brakes do not provide any means of manual pad adjustment. They do however
feature an expansion chamber within the brake lever master cylinder which
automatically compensates for pad wear and similarly compensates for fluid expansion
as the brake heats up and cools down.
With the caliper correctly centred relative to the disc there should be no disc rub on the
DH4 and Open 2 brakes. Even if there is a slight amount of disc rub it will not slow the
bike down in any way and will not be audible against the ground noise from the tires.
If you remove your wheels from your bicycle take care not to pull the brake levers
otherwise the pistons can pump out. If this happens then simply push the pistons back.
If the pistons are so far out that the pads are touching then you will need to remove the
pads in order to get at the pistons. If you transport your bicycle with the wheels
removed then it is advisable to insert a piece of packing between the pads to keep
them in place.
0
1
3. Service
3.1. Regular maintenance
Cleaning your brake
The braking performance will be severely reduced if the disc rotor and pads become
contaminated with oil, brake fluid or after-market degreasing and cleaning agents.
Clean your brake with water.
If the disc rotor becomes contaminated it can be cleaned by wiping with a rag with
isopropyl alcohol or disc brake cleaning products designed specifically for bicycle disc
brakes. Heavily contaminated brake pads will need replacing.
Checking for system leaks
Check the hose for any damage such as chaffing against the bike, or whenever the bike
has been rough handled or dropped. A split hose (however tiny) will cause a system
leak which will severely impair braking performance. A damaged hose will need
replacing.
Check the caliper and lever assemblies for any signs of fluid loss. See the
Troubleshooting section for fixing any problems.
Checking the brake pads
The brake pads will need replacing when the friction material is worn down to 0.5mm.
Do not wait until the friction material has worn through to the backing plate because the
brake will not function and you will damage the disc rotor.
3.2. Changing the brake pads
1. Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the split pins using pliers (and the pad retaining spring on the XC4 caliper)
and slide out the old pads from the caliper.
3. Retract the pistons on the XC4 and Closed 2 brakes by turning the brake lever
master cylinder screw adjuster anti clockwise. For the Open 2 and DH4 brakes
gently prise the pistons back using a plastic tire lever (or similar).
4. Clean the inside of the caliper with a clean rag and insert the new brake pads, (and
retaining spring on the XC4 caliper) and new split pins. The new pads must be
genuine Hope compatible pads for the appropriate caliper.
5. Refit the wheel and adjust the pad position, (see section 2.5).
1
1
6. Bed in the new pads (see section 2.6).
3.3. Bleeding the brake
Bleeding the brake is the procedure whereby new brake fluid is introduced into the
system either as a replacement or to flush out any trapped air.
There are several reasons why a bleed operation may be necessary, for example
shortening a brake hose, changing the brake fluid, or to remedy a situation described
later in the troubleshooting guide (section 4).
There are two distinct procedures for bleeding your disc brake depending on which
brake system you have purchased, please make sure you select the correct procedure.
But first a few important notes on brake fluid.
Brake fluid
This Hope disc brake contains
motor accessory stores. If you cannot obtain DOT 5.1 then DOT 4 is acceptable but you
must flush out all the old DOT 5.1 first.
Use of other types of brake fluid, in particular mineral oil, will seriously damage your
brake and cause brake failure.
Please read the care instructions that come with the DOT brake fluid, in particular we
draw your attention to the following:
Use only new brake fluid from a closed bottle and replace the bottle’s cap
•
afterwards to prevent contamination of the fluid (DOT 5.1 fluid absorbs moisture).
Brake fluid will strip paint so wipe off any spillage immediately and clean the area
•
with isopropyl alcohol.
Brake pads contaminated with brake fluid will need replacing because the braking
•
performance of the pad will be greatly diminished.
Discard old brake fluid in a responsible manner and do not pollute drains or the
•
environment.
DOT 5.1
hydraulic brake fluid which is available from
Bleeding the XC4 and Closed 2 disc brake
Item number references refer to the diagram of the Pro lever in section 5.1. The
procedure is identical if you have a Sport lever.
Wear safety glasses.
1. Remove the wheel and brake pads to prevent contamination.
2. If necessary reposition the brake lever so that the lever and master cylinder is
horizontal to the ground.
2
1
3. Remove the master cylinder cap (item 23) using a 26mm spanner.
4. Place the closed end of an 8mm spanner over the bleed nipple on the brake
caliper. Fit a length of clear plastic hose (approximately 30cm) onto the bleed
nipple and place the free end into an empty container. The hose should be a snug
fit and not fall off, the free end does not need to be submerged under brake fluid.
5. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
6. Open the bleed nipple a 1/4 turn. Slowly pull the brake lever to the handle bars and
hold. Close the bleed nipple. Release the lever. Caution, squeezing the lever too
fast will cause brake fluid to squirt out of the master cylinder.
7. Repeat step 6 until no air is seen coming out of the bleed nipple. You will need to
keep refilling the reservoir during this operation. Caution, if bleeding a rear brake
be careful not to spill brake fluid onto the front
caliper and disc.
8. Unscrew the reservoir piston from the master
cylinder cap. Note that this is a left hand thread,
see Figure 5 .
9. Place a rag around the master cylinder to catch
any spillage and fill the master cylinder to just
below the top surface.
10. Place the reservoir piston into the master cylinder
and allow the fluid to overflow. Gently push it down
until it rests on the ‘O’ ring seal and clean away the excess fluid.
11. Screw the silver adjuster into the piston (note, this is a left hand thread and is part
of the master cylinder cap) until the cap makes contact with the top of the master
cylinder. Press gently down on the cap and thread it clockwise until it is tight then
tighten with a 26mm spanner. Screw the thumbwheel of the adjuster (item 25) anticlockwise to the limit of its travel.
12. Open the bleed nipple a 1/4 turn to allow the pistons to retract into the caliper. The
pistons are spring loaded and should return on their own but may require manually
pressing back. Close the bleed nipple and remove the plastic hose. Caution, do
not over tighten the bleed nipple. Wipe away any spilt fluid from the caliper and
lever.
13. Replace the pads and insert the wheel.
14. Adjust the silver thumbwheel to obtain the desired lever travel.
15. Check the brake for correct function and that there are no any system leaks.
Figure 5
3
1
Bleeding the Open 2 and DH4 disc brake
Item number references refer to the diagram of the Pro lever in section 5.2. The
procedure is identical if you have a Sport lever.
Wear safety glasses.
1. Remove the wheel and brake pads to prevent contamination.
2. Push the caliper pistons back into their bores and insert a spacer between the
pistons to prevent them coming out during the bleed operation.
3. If necessary reposition the brake lever so that the lever and master cylinder is
horizontal to the ground.
4. Remove the master cylinder cap (item 22) using a 26mm spanner.
5. Place the closed end of an 8mm spanner over the bleed nipple on the brake
caliper. Fit a length of clear plastic hose (approximately 30cm) onto the bleed
nipple and place the free end into an empty container. The hose should be a snug
fit and not fall off, the free end does not need to be submerged under brake fluid.
6. Open the bleed nipple 1/2 turn. Screw an M5 bolt into the master cylinder piston
(item 21) and pull out.
fluid. Close the bleed nipple.
7. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
8. Open the bleed nipple a 1/4 turn. Slowly pull the brake lever to the handle bars and
hold. Close the bleed nipple. Release the lever.
fast will cause brake fluid to squirt out of the master cylinder.
9. Repeat step 8 until no air is seen coming out of the bleed nipple. You will need to
keep refilling the reservoir during this operation.
be careful not to spill brake fluid onto the front brake caliper and disc.
10. Ensure the pistons are fully retracted in the caliper, the pistons may require
manually pressing back.
11. Place a rag around the master cylinder to catch any spillage and fill the master
cylinder to just below the top surface.
12. Open the bleed nipple a 1/4 turn. Place the piston into the master cylinder and
allow the fluid to overflow. Gently push the piston down until it is 1mm below the top
surface. Close the bleed nipple and remove the bleed hose.
tighten the bleed nipple. Wipe away any spilt fluid from the caliper and lever.
13. Fit the master cylinder cap and gently tighten with a 26mm spanner.
14. Replace the pads and insert the wheel. Pull the lever several times to allow the
pads to reset themselves to the disc.
15. Check the brake for correct function and that there are no any system leaks.
Caution
, the piston may suddenly pull out and splash brake
Caution
Caution
, squeezing the lever too
, if bleeding a rear brake
Caution
, do not over
4
1
When to change the brake fluid
For high performance usage, typically downhill racing and applications that use lots of
braking effort it is recommended you change the brake fluid once per year. For normal
use change the fluid every four years.
To change the brake fluid follow the preceding instructions for bleeding the brake and
ensure that the master cylinder is filled (and pumped through) at least four times.
3.4. Shortening or re-routing the hose
Your disc brake is supplied fully assembled and bled by the Hope factory and the hose
length will suit the majority of forks and frames. If desired, the following procedure can
be used to shorten the hose. The same procedure can be used to detach the hose and
route it through existing frame guides.
The item numbers refer to the diagram of the XC4 caliper (Section 5.5) but the
procedure is identical for all calipers.
1. Remove the wheel and brake pads to prevent contamination.
2. At the caliper end, unscrew the aluminium shroud (item 16) and slide it away from
the connector (item 18).
3. Prise open the brass olive (item 17) using a screwdriver and slide the olive away
from the connector.
4. Push the end of a small fine bladed screwdriver under the hose end and prise the
hose away from the connector. Once it has eased away from the connector it should
be possible to detach the hose by gently pulling it. This operation must be done
carefully or the inner section of the hose will separate from the outer.
the separated hose carefully, the hose contains brake fluid and it will leak out if you
allow the hose to swing freely.
5. Cut the hose to the desired length using hose cutters or a sharp knife to produce a
clean square cut. Do not remove too much, the resulting hose length should still
permit the full and unrestricted movement of the handlebars.
At this stage the hose can be routed through existing fork or frame guides taking
care not to kink the hose. Take care to avoid a routing situation that can damage
the hose when the bicycle is used such as trapping the hose within suspension fork
or rear suspension linkage movements and avoid chaffing on the tire.
6. Push the hose onto the connector.
7. Slide the brass olive and aluminium shroud into position and tighten.
8. Re bleed the system as described in section 3.3.
Caution
, hold
5
1
3.5. Hose change
If the hose becomes damaged such that a system leak (however small) occurs then
replace the hose. Try to identify how the original damage occurred to prevent the same
thing happening again. A new length of genuine Hope Technology hydraulic hose will
need purchasing. Follow the procedure for shortening/re routing the hose in section 3.4.
Note, in section 3.4, the hose is disconnected from the lever in the same manner as
described for disconnecting from the caliper.
3.6. Caliper half change – piston removal
This operation is required if you change your forks (or frame) to one that incorporates a
different disc mount design. In most cases you can utilise your existing Hope disc brake
by changing the caliper half to a new one that has the appropriate bolt mounting
pattern. Consult your dealer who will advise what caliper half is required.
This procedure can also be used should you need to remove a caliper piston.
1. Remove the wheel and brake pads to prevent contamination.
2. To obtain better leverage leave the caliper on the fork (or frame) and use an Allen
key to just release the tightness of the two caliper half retaining screws. Remove the
caliper from the fork (or frame), there is no need to disconnect the brake hose.
3. Place the caliper over a clean rag to catch the brake fluid and completely remove
the two caliper half retaining screws. The caliper will separate into two halves.
The piston from the old caliper half needs transferring to the new caliper half. The
Closed 2 and XC4 calipers require an additional step prior to removing the piston.
Closed 2 caliper
4.
The piston requires unscrewing using a pin spanner. In most situations the piston
will easily unscrew, if it is tight then do not force it with the pin spanner or you may
damage the piston, in this case use the appropriate Hope tool available from your
Hope dealer. Unscrew the piston to the end of its travel, at this point it will rotate
freely without unscrewing any further. Now follow step 5 to completely remove the
piston from the caliper.
XC4 Caliper
The procedure is similar to the Closed 2 caliper described above except the piston
requires unscrewing using a broad flat blade.
5. To remove the piston (all calipers) a bicycle ‘track pump’ is required. Open the
bleed nipple 1/2 turn place the air line over the bleed nipple. Place your thumb over
the recessed transfer hole and ask a second person to apply pressure with the
pump. The piston will eventually eject with some force so point the caliper towards a
clean rag to catch the piston and prevent damaging it.
at the piston whilst carrying out this operation otherwise it can fly out and strike you
in the face.
Caution
: do not look directly
6
1
For the XC4 and DH4 calipers (2 pistons per caliper half) you should try to eject the
pistons simultaneously. If one piston is moving faster than the other then apply
finger pressure to one piston to allow the other to catch up.
6. Clean the piston. The new caliper half will include a new piston seal. Wipe the
inside of the bore with clean brake fluid and gently push the piston into it. For the
DH4 and Open 2 caliper the piston will push all the way to the bottom.
For the XC4 and Closed 2 caliper push the piston until it locates on the screw thread
and screw the piston into the bore. Caution : do not over tighten or you will strip the
thread and severely damage the caliper half and piston.
7. Using the new ‘O’ ring transfer port seal provided with the new caliper half place the
two halves together and gently tighten. Replace the caliper on the fork/frame and
fully tighten the caliper half bolts to the correct torque.
Do not operate the bicycle with defective brakes. Outlined below are some of the
common problems and solutions. If the problem persists then contact your dealer or the
Hope distributor for your country.
No braking power
SymptomsSolution
The lever operates as normal but the
brake does not deliver a good braking
force.
Lever goes all the way to the bars
The brake pads are new and not fully
bedded in. Follow the instructions in
section 2.6.
The disc rotor and pads may be
contaminated. Clean the disc rotor and
pads (see Cleaning your brake in section
3.1).
If the problem persists then the pads will
need replacing.
SymptomsSolution
No braking effort and the lever goes all
the way to the bars.
For the XC4 and Closed 2 brakes ensure
the pads are correctly adjusted relative to
the disc surface.
If the DH4 and Open 2 brakes are new or
have had some maintenance done then
the lever will require pumping several
times to reset the pad position.
If non of the above work then there may
be insufficient fluid in the system from a
bad bleed (in which case re bleed) or the
system has a leak as described next.
8
1
Spongy lever
SymptomsSolution
Reduced braking power and spongy feel
when pulling the lever.
Air in the system. Re bleed the system
(see section 3.3).
If the problem persists then there may be
a system leak described below.
System leak
SymptomsSolution
Hydraulic oil can be seen on the outside
of the system, usually associated with a
loss of braking performance. A typical
cause is after a crash which has
wrenched the hose and damaged other
items on the brake. Or the brake is very
old and the seals have worn out.
Spare parts are available for your brake.
Please consult your dealer who will advise
and obtain the required spares.
Lever is stiff and does not return
SymptomsSolution
The lever does not snap back to its return
position when released.
On the Pro lever the pivot bush (item 12)
will need lubricating. If this does not cure
the problem then disassemble the lever
pivot and clean the bush, ensuring it
moves freely within the lever blade. On
both the Pro and Sport lever make sure
the lever pivot screw (item 18) is not over
tightened.
If the wrong fluid has been used then the
piston seals in the lever will be ruined
causing them to stick and so preventing
the smooth operation of the lever. In this
case you need to consult your dealer to
obtain new seals.
9
2
[ This page is blank by design ]
0
2
5. Parts lists
1
2
2
5.1. Pro lever for the XC4 and Closed 2 brake
[ EXPLODED DIAGRAM ]
2
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTIONQTY ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTIONQTY
3
Parts list : Pro lever for the XC4 and Closed 2 brake
1HBSP50 PRO BRAKE LEVER115HBSP47 90 DEG BOLT1
2HBSP51L PRO MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY (left)116HBSP16 NYLON WASHER - LEVER2
2HBSP51R PRO MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY (right)117HBSP28 BRASS OLIVE1
3HBSP52 PRO MASTER CYLINDER CLAMP118HBSP18 PIVOT SCREW - LEVER1
4HBSP53 PRO PISTON - MASTER CYLINDER119HBSP19 M5 LOCKNUT1
5HBSP54 PRO SPRING - MASTER CYLINDER120HBSP20 O RING - RESERVOIR1
7HBSP34O RING SEAL - CALIPER115HBSP33 BLEED NIPPLE1
8HBSP72M5 X 20 CAP SCREW216HBSP41 SPLIT PIN2
3
6. Warranty
Hope Technology disc brakes are warranted for a period of one full year from original
purchase against defects in materials and workmanship. The warranty only applies to
the original owner and proof of purchase is required.
Hope cannot process any warranty claim until the product has been returned to the
factory.
Any Hope product that is returned to the factory and is found by Hope to be defective in
materials or workmanship will be repaired or replaced at the option of Hope.
This warranty does not cover damage caused through misuse, incorrect assembly or
failure to follow this manual or service instructions.
Hope shall not be held liable for any indirect, special or consequential damages.
This warranty does not affect your statutory rights.
8
3
7. New 2001 Disc brakes
For 2001 we have made several changes to the open system brakes. The key changes
to the new brakes are shown below.
Enduro 4 caliper
This caliper replaces the DH4. It uses the same pads and seals as the previous DH4.
The major change is to the caliper body, which has been refined and made more
compact. These changes reduce the weight and make the bleeding process easier due
to the improved fluid flow within the caliper. The Enduro pads are held in place with two
screws and a spring.
Mini caliper
This caliper replaces the Open 2. The Mini is a smaller and lighter version. All parts in
the caliper, including the pads and seals are new. The Mini pads are held in place with
a single screw.
Installation and maintenance
Enduro and Mini are still open system designs and installation and maintenance is
carried out in the same way as described in this manual for the DH4 and Open 2
calipers. The master cylinder on the Enduro and Mini caliper brake lever is slightly
different since it now incorporates a revised design. The following notes should be used
when bleeding these calipers.
New open system diaphragm
Instead of the aluminium master cylinder piston of the early open systems (DH4 and
Open 2) we have fitted a special rubber diaphragm that will react much quicker to any
temperature changes or pad wear.
When fitting the diaphragm the master cylinder should be filled to the top with fluid.
Now push the diaphragm onto the fluid with as little air as possible under the rubber. It
is impossible to fit with no air under the diaphragm so do not worry if you cannot expel
all the air.
If you have any questions regarding this operation then please get in touch with us.
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