Honda Automobiles XR400, Estart Kit User Manual

Instructions for the Estart Kit XR400

Read the instructions before you do anything and if there are questions call 408.924.0139

First off you must be competent with basic hand tools and be patient otherwise you might break a lot
of things. The only special tool required is a Honda Fly Wheel Puller, which can be had at any local
bike store.

Lets begin. First put the bike on a Jack or stand and drain all of the oil. There is a plug by the
alternator side to help drain the left side.

Remove the seat, tank, skid plate shift lever, and the connectors from the alternator cover. You will
have to remove the crank vent assembly; now I can’t legally tell you to throw it as faraway as possible
but when they stick and they do it will blow out every seal in your motor. Now I can’t tell you to
replace it but I have seen people run a hose up to the air box and put on a little uni-filter. Keep it high
up if you forge deep streams. Remember I can’t tell you to do this so if you do its on your on accord.

Next remove the alternator cover from the motor. Pull out the stud that’s left in the engine case. Now
carefully remove the three 8mm screw and 2 8mm screws holding the stator and pick-up. (Hint
degreases every thing makes life easier). Be aware of how the cable and cable hold-downs are
situated.

Now carefully install the stator (hopefully you got a
200 watt version) and pick-up in the new cover use
locktite on the screws (just a little please). Bend the
cable tabs a bit to make sure it does not rub. You
may have to pull the wires through the rubber
grommet, as some stators are a little short. It is
imperative that there is enough strain relief in the
harness.

Remove the Alternator/flywheel, and inspect the key
to make sure there are no burrs or distortions.
Check the crank to make sure it’s clean and
smooth. If not sand with Emory cloth. It is
imperative that there are no high spots or burrs
other wise you will experience the sadness of your
bike dying due to shavings collecting on the coils
from the fly wheel rubbing.

Now in stall the Shim marked P1, (This is the thicker of the two shims) follow with the crank adapter.
Hint: Rotate motor so key is facing up.

Crank adapter

1

Tap the crank adapter with a soft mallet to help set it in
place. If you have a dial indicator it would be a good
time to check the run out.

Install the Joeracer key in the adapter making sure that
it is sitting flush and snug with no burrs folds spindles
or mutilations.

Next install the needle bearing over the adapter
making sure to grease well.

Now install part 3 from the clutch assembly sketch, paying attention to the correct direction the gear is
in-stalled.

The thin shim goes in the pocket of the gear facing out

Now per the picture carefully install the clutch bearing
assembly in the hub (part 5 in to part 4) and then in stall
over the large gear assembly part 3

2

Note the position of ft the key and the drive pins. Make sure everything rotates freely and apply a libbrial
amount of motor oil. (At this point the clutch will only rotate freely in one direction. In stall the second
shim (part 9 from the clutch assembly sketch Honda part).

Now carefully align the flywheel to the key, you will have to rotate the clutch assembly to align the
drive holes with the 2 holes in the flywheel. Carefully! Tap the flywheel in place.

If it doesn’t want to go on easily, you may have to either remove the clutch outer hub and bearing
assembly and attach to the flywheel, and then assemble to the clutch gear. NOTE! There are two sets
of drive screws included. The button heads and the machined socket heads. For some flywheels that
are of the 98 and earlier the machined socket heads are the only ones that will fit. Locktite and torque
to 20 ft. lbs.

Note: The correct direction of the key is the wide section in horizontal plane.
The flywheel should be attached to the drive clutch plate. The button heads go through the flywheel

and attach the in the plate. The socket heads are a pin drive where they float.
The upper pictures show the drive pins (socket heads) installed prior to the flywheel installation. This

may not be possible on all bikes; the button heads would go on after the flywheel is installed.

3

We no longer use the machined socket
head screws.

The button heads should be installed last after
the flywheel is torqued down and the assembly
is rotates to center the clutch.

Through the two holes in the fly wheel install
the button heads and locktite torqued to
20 ft. lbs.

Now install the 75x12x1.25 mm bolt, washer (use the original) and lock washer and torque down to
70 ft.lbs. (no more no less if you do it will distort the crank adapter).

Note: Don’t use an impact wrench; if you do you’ll come back to me crying and I’ll have to verbally
assuault you.

Don’t be afraid to use a good deal of locktite. Make sure all
of the threads are cleaned with brake clean or carb cleaner.
Again if you have a dial indicator checks the run out of the
inside of the flywheel. Next install part 1 and part 6 from the
sketch. Which is the double gear and corresponding pin.

Locate the starter motor from your box and the long red cable.
Install the cable on the connector leaving a little loose to adjust
later.

4

Now locate the over flow hose’s from the carb. At the engine case there is a metal rod that holds
them in place.

Remove the screw and rod, as that’s where the starter bolts to the case.
From the flywheel side slide the starter and align with the screw hole that you removed the rod from.
From your pile of old case bolts find a screw about 35 mm (1.25) or so and reinstall the metal rod on

top of the screw. Unless you are good at guessing the alignment of the starter in relation to the case
do not Locktite and tighten, as you’ll be removing later to do so.

Run the wire up to the air box area.

5