Homelite XL Owner's Manual

FIRST EDITION
PRINTED IN U.S.A.
PART NO. 17287
-
Supplied with Product
Extra Copies $1
.OO
operating & Maintenance
MANUAL
HOMELITE
Automatic
Oiler
CHAIN
SAW
WARNING: CHAIN SAWS CAN BE DANGEROUS. TO REDUCE DANGER FOLLOW ALL SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS
IN
THIS OWNER'S MANUAL.
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CONTENTS
rn
INTRODUCTION
Protection Against Vibration
.......................
.2
Hearing Protectors
................................. 2
SAFEmT*TIP:@
......................................
2
Safety Precautions (list)
............................
3
Your Physical Condition
...........................
.4
Protective Articles, Equipment and Supplies
........
.4
Section
1
-
PREPARING YOUR NEW SAW
Guide Bar and Chain Assembly
.....................
4
Chain Tension
....................................
.5
Chain Oil and the Oil System
.......................
5
Fueling the Saw
....................................
6
Section
2-
HOW TO START, STOP AND HOLD SAW
6
Section
3
-
KICKBACK, PUSH and PULL
What is Chain Saw Kickback?.
.....................
.8
How Should You Maintain Control of Your Saw?
.....
9
How Should You Reduce the Chance of Kickback?.
.
.9
Section
4
-
THE WORKING AREA
Work Area Precautions
...........................
.10
Handling and Securing the Saw
...................
.ll
.................
Unusually Hazardous Conditions.. 11
Section 5 - TECHNIQUES OF CUTTING
Bucking, Limbing and Pruning
.....................
12
Cutting Variations According to Stress Factors..
...
.12
Springpoles
......................................
.13
Boring with the Nose Section
......................
13
Tree Felling Techniques
..........................
.14
Notching..
.......................................
.14
Backcutting
.......................................
14
Felling Large Trees
................................
15
Felling "Leaners"
..................................
15
Changing Direction of Fall
........................
.15
Section
6
-
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT
Hornelite@ Saw Chain..
............................
16
Filing Equipment
.................................
.16
How to File the Cutters
............................
16
Corrective Refiling..
...............................
17
How and When to Set Depth Gauge Clearance..
...
.17
Replacement of Worn Sprocket
...................
.18
Guide Bar Maintenance..
.........................
.18
Maintenance of Tanks, Caps and Pick-ups
.........
.18
Air Filter Maintenance
.............................
19
............................
Carburetor Adjustment 19 Rewind Starter Maintenance and Repairs
..........
.20
Ignition, Cooling and Exhaust System Maintenance .21
Storing Your Saw..
...............................
.22
INTRODUCTION
Facts About
XL@
Chain Saws
This Owner's Manual tells how to operate and
maintain^
your Model XL@ chain saw. You are urged to read the en­tire contents of this manual even before you begin to assemble the unit. Proper preparation and maintenance go hand-in-hand with the satisfactory operation of your saw. So you should keep this manual handy.
PROTECTION AGAINST VIBRATION
The chain saw models discussed in this Owner's Manual are not equipped with vibration reduction features and, accordingly, are intended for occasional use only.
It has been determined that certain individuals, after long periods of exposure to chain saw vibration possibly coupled with exposure to cold weather, experience a restriction of blood circulation through the fingers which often has the appearance of Frostbite. This reduction of the blood supply may result in an ailment sometimes referred to as
Raynaud's Disease,
the exact causes of which are presently unknown. Permanent damage may result when early symptoms are ignored.
There are certain measures which can be taken to mini-
mize the risk of this ailment. These are as follows:
1. Wear gloves to keep the hands and wrists warm.
2. Keep the chain sharp so that you do not have
to bear down hard while cutting.
3. Limit your use of the saw to short and occasional per­iods.
4.
After each period of use, exercise to restore normal
blood circulation.
Your saw hasaspark arrestor screen built into the muffler and a temperature screen integral with the exhaust cap.
In certain states where the law requires use of a spark
arrestor, it also requires the
owner/operator to keep a spark arrestor in good condition (intact) in the exhaust system at all times. The spark arrestor is a very fine
stainless steel mesh. Thus it is subject to warping, cracking and burning out. Replacement spark arrestor screens are available in blister packs as #D-93991, or in kit form as #A-69586-6.
NOTICE Model XL chain saws are designed for operation using only conventional guide bars and saw chains. Do not attempt to adapt this engine for use with a bow guide or as a powerhead for any attachments or devices not listed
for the model XL in Homelite sales literature.
HEARING PROTECTORS
Long or continuous exposure to high noise levels, such as involved in the operation of a chain saw, may cause permanent hearing impairment or other possible effects. Hearing protection devices are available from your Homelite dealer or can be ordered through him. When ordering, specify "Homelite Hearing Protectors
#92810."
HOMELITEB SAFE@T@TIP@
(Pat. Pending)
This Homelite anti-kickback device is supplied with your Model
XL@ at no extra charge. The instruction booklet (#17067) packed with the SAFEmTmTIP tells you how to install it properly on your guide bar, and
hoy to operate
with a
SAFEaTmTIP. When properly installed, the SAFEmT-TIP prevents chain saw kickback, because it covers the chain at the upper
90" quadrant of the guide
bar nose where kickback reaction could occur.
2
01979,
TEXTRON,
INC
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r
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR CHAIN SAW USERS
When you are going to cut wood-DO
IT RIGHT!
3
BASIC PRECAUTIONS FOR PERSONAL SAFETY
Use safety footwear, snug-fitting cloth-
ing, and eye, hearing and head protection.
Wear non-slip gloves to improve your
grip. Do not wear scarfs, jewelry, or neckties which could be drawn into the
engine or catch on the chain or under-
brush.
Always hold the chain saw with both
hands when the engine is running. Use a firm grip with thumbs and fingers encir­cling the chain saw handles.
GUARD AGAINST KICKBACK: a) Hold the chain saw firmly with both
hands. Don't overreach. You cannot maintain good control of the saw
if
you cut above shoulder height.
b) Don't let the nose of the guide bar
contact a log, branch, the ground or
any other obstruction. c) Cut at high engine speeds. d) Keep the chain sharp. Don't operate
with a loose chain. Maintain the cor­rect tension of the chain as prescribed in this Owner's Manual.
Guard against the effects of a long or continuous exposure to noise, such as
involved in the operation of a chain saw. Hearing protection devices are available
from your local Homelite dealer'. Never operate a chain saw when you are
fatigued.
Keep all parts of your body away from the saw chain when the engine is running.
BASIC PRECAUTIONS WITH CHAIN SAWS
Always carry the chain saw with the
engine stopped, the guide bar and saw chain to the rear, and the muffler away from your body. When transporting your chain saw, use the appropriate guide bar scabbard.
Always use caution when handling fuel.
Move the chain saw at least
10
feet
(3
m) from the fueling point before starting the engine.
Keep the handles dry, clean and free of oil or fuel mixture.
Before you start the engine, make sure the saw chain is not contacting anything.
Shut off the engine before setting down the saw. Do not leave the engine running
unattended.
Operate the chain saw only in well venti-
lated areas. Be sure that the chain stops moving when
the throttle control is released.
BASIC PRECAUTIONS IN
CUlTlNGMIORK AREA
Do not operate a chain saw in a tree un-
less you have been specifically trained to
do so. Keep bystanders and animals out of the
work area.
Never start cutting until you have a clear
work area, secure footing, and a planned
retreat path from the falling tree.
Use extreme caution when cutting small size brush and saplings, because slender
material may catch the saw chain and be
whipped toward you or pull you off
balance.
When cutting a limb that is under tension,
be alert for springback so that you will not be struck when the tension in the
wood fibers is released.
BASIC PRECAUTIONS ABOUT MAINTENANCE
Never operate a chain saw that is dam-
aged, improperly adjusted, or is not completely and securely assembled. Be sure that the saw chain stops moving when the throttle control trigger is
released.
All chain saw service, other than items in
the Owner's Manual maintenance in-
structions, should be performed by com­petent chain saw service personnel. (If improper tools are used to remove the
flywheel or clutch, or
if
an improper tool is used to hold the flywheel in order to remove the clutch, structural damage to the flywheel could occur which could subsequently cause the flywheel to burst.)
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YOUR PHYSICAL CONDITION
Work relaxed but stay alert. Take a break from work when-
serious ailments such as a heart condition, check with
ever you begin to tire. Never operate when tired or under
your doctor before doing any strenuous lifting, reaching,
the influence of alcohol or any drugs which may affect
pushing, chopping, shoveling, etc. Always do any lifting
your balance, coordination or judgement.
If
you have any
iob with vour leg muscles, not your back.
SECTION 1 -PREPARING YOUR NEW SAW
GUIDE BAR AND CHAIN ASSEMBLY
IMPORTANT:
Wear gloves for protection against the sharp teeth when­ever you are working on
the
saw chain.
TURN SAW OVER SO SPROCKET IS ON TOP SIDE
FLAT WASHER
ARROW STAMPED "FRONT" IN GUIDE BAR MOUNTING PLATE SHOULD
BE TOWARD NOSE OF GUIDE BAR
CHAIN TENSION
ADJUSTING SCREW
ADJUSTING PIN
1. Throw the switch into the "STOP" position to insure that the engine will not start while you are working on the saw.
2.
Although not illustrated here, the SAFE*T.TlP@ may
be assembled on the guide bar at this stage, or you may wait until the last step. Follow
SAFE.T*TIP in-
structions, booklet
#17067.
3.
Place engine on work surface so guide bar mounting
pad and sprocket are face up. Turn tension adjusting
screw until adjusting pin is at rear of slot in mount-
ing pad.
4.
Remove the mounting nut and flat washer, and the guide bar mounting plate from the mounting pad of the engine.
5.
Unpack bar and chain. Straighten any kinks in the chain and lay it out in a loop. Cutting edgesshould face
in direction of chain rotation which is from bar nose toward sprocket along bottom edge of bar.
6. Put the chain tangs into the bar groove and pull the chain so there isa loop at mounting end of bar. Holding
chain in place on bar, hook the loop over and onto the chain drive sprocket. Fit the bar into place so that the fixed pin and the mounting stud and the tension pin fit
into the long mounting slot of the bar.
7. Check that the bar is flush against the mounting pad. Check that the pin fits cleanly into the slot
-
Hold bar in the flush position and put the guide bar plate, flat washer and mounting nut back onto the saw.
8.
Check that the bar and pins are still in place. Then turn down the nut with a wrench until the bar is quite snug
ENSION ADJUSTING PIN TENSION ADJUSTING SCR
PULL UP LOOP
HOOK CHAIN OVER
ONTO THE SPROCKET)
AND ONTO SPROCKE
IEW
against the pad (and adjusting pin cannot come out of the slot). Leave the bar free enough to slide when the tension adjusting screw is turned.
9.
Turn the tension adjusting screw clockwise to more the bar away from the sprocket. Keep turning until nearly all of the chain slack is taken up. Turn saw to the
right-side-up
position before adjusting the chain
tension.
TURN TENSION ADJUSTING SCREW CLOCKWISE TO INCREASE THE
h
CHAIN TENSION.
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CHAIN
TENSION
1.
Proper tension is extremely important. The mounting nut should be loose enough to permit movement of the guide bar tension adjustment. Hold up the nose of the bar during theadjustment
stepsand until the mounting
nut has been tightened completely. This will take up
any clearance between the bar mounting slot and the
mounting pins in the direction in which pressure is most often applied during cutting.
2. "Snap" the chain to remove any kinks (pull chain away from bar and let go several times).
Proper cold tension: As tight as possible without causing binding. Chain tie-straps should remain in contact with bar along bottom rails.
Adjustment of warm chain: Tighten until tangs move
halfway up into bar groove. Check tension after bar has cooled, because only a cool chain can be tensioned accurately.
3. Because steel expands as its temperature rises, you will be concerned with two conditions. a) The first is "cold tension". When first mounted on
the bar, the chain is cool and should be "snug" or taut
-
As much tension as possible without your feeling any binding as you pull the chain along the bar by hand. We call thissetting "cold
tension."You should not seeany clearance between the tie-straps and the bar rails along the bottom of the bar. Tighten the mounting nut to lock the assembly at this ten­sion. Now you are ready to fill the saw with chain oil and fuel and make some cuts.
b) The second condition
isUwarm tension." As you op­erate the saw, the chain will heat up and expand, developing "droop" (too little tension). Operating with a drooping chain is damaging to the chain, bar and engine. It is also dangerous to cut with a droop-
ing chain which can catch in the wood and pull or throw you. When wearing in a new chain and bar,
you should stop to adjust the tension after each four
or five cuts for the first tankful of fuel consumed. During this period, the droop will be due partly to warming of the steel and partly to loosening of the
chain joints. After the joints are worn in, the chain
will stretch from heat, but will return to the original tension when it has cooled.
EXCESSIVE DROOP
4. Any time the chain droops to where the chain tangs hang out or almost out the bar groove (as illustrated in the picture labeled "excessive droop") you must shut off the engine immediately and do the following: a) Take off your glove and feel the chain. If you cannot
hold chain in your fingers without discomfort while counting to 20, the chain is too hot to adjust accu­rately. If you try to adjust an overheated chain, you will fail because
thechain will becontracting rapidly
as you proceed. Let
thechain cool to where you can
hold it comfortably before making the adjustment.
b) A warm chain should not be adjusted to the same
tension as a cold chain. When chain is warm adjust to where the clearance between the tie-straps and bar rails at bottom, center of bar is about
1/8"
(3,2mm) or to half the depth of the tangs (see "Proper Warm Chain Tension" illustration).
CAREFUL Upon cooling, the chain may become too tight on the bar. Before next use, the tension should always be adjusted for proper "cold tension" after it has cooled.
5.
A chain will get too hot if it is underoiled, improperly sharpened or dull, or if you are cutting hard, seasoned wood. Make it a habit to know whether your chain is in good cutting condition and is getting enough lubri­cation. An underoiled chain will get so hot that the joints will stiffen and
thechain will then bind on the bar.
If this occurs let bar and chain cool, then remove them.
Clean all sawdust from
theguide bar mounting pad and
clutch area of the engine. Clean out the oil discharge
hole in the guide bar pad, and all the sawdust from the guide bar. Reassemble and tension the chain on the saw. Fill the chain oiler with oil. Start up and run the engine for
30
seconds at full throttle. Shut off the en-
gine and examine the chain drive
linksand joints.They
should appear moist with oil. If dry, have the saw checked by your dealer.
CHAIN OIL AND
THE
OIL
SYSTEM
1.
The chain oil and fuel mix tanks are identified in raised
letters on the left side of the saw. The fuel cap is RED. The chain oil cap is BLACK. Be sure to fill the chain oil
tank with oil every time you fuel the saw, but always be-
low the check valve.
CHAIN OIL PRESSURE
LINE AND CHECK VALVE. DO NOT
FILL TANK ABOVE VALVE LEVEL.
NOTE
Constant jiggling in a vehicle, or upside-down storage of a saw having a full tank of chain oil, can force oil back through the oil pressure line into the cylinder. This oil may lock the engine hydraulically, preventing cranking. To avoid this occurance, be sure to fill the oil tank only to just below the oil pressure line and check valve. This as­sembly can be seen in the neck of the oil tank. Whenever the engine refuses to turn over, remove the spark plug to break the hydraulic lock. Then crank the engine several times to dispel the oil. Clean the spark plug thoroughly before you reinstall it.
Wipe down the saw if any oil or fuel is spilled on it. Keep the saw handles clean.
2.
Type of oil:
HOMELITEB Bar and Chain Oil
should be used just as it comes from the container, as it is formulated with "viscosity improvers" which render it free-flowing even at below zero temperatures. It has the property of clinging to the chain to minimize "throw-off".
Any brand of clean motor oil including reprocessed oil may be used as a substitute chain oil. However, in ex­tremely cold weather, SAE
30
weight oil should be
diluted in the proportion of
1
part keroseneto4 partsof oil to restore free-flowing properties. Never use dirty oil or used oil in the chain oiler system as it may dam­age the oil pump.
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FUELING THE SAW
WARNING
This fuel tank may be under pressure. Remove cap slowly.
1.
The red plastic fuel mixcap at the top of the saw is iden­tified in raised letters. During fueling, take care that no
sawdust or dirt enter the tank. Do not spill fuel.
CAUTION
Select bare ground for fueling. Do not smoke or bring any fire or flame near the fuel. Move at least
10
feet
(3
m) from
fueling spot before starting engine.
2. Fuel to use: This 2-cycle engine is lubricated by oil mixed with gasoline. Use only oils and gasolines re­commended in this manual. The amount of oil required
per gallon of gasoline depends on the type of oil used.
Always keep fuel in clean fuel cans. Do not keep fuel
in glass containers (which can break or explode) or in plastic jugs (other than those specifically designed for
gasoline storage). a) Acceptable 2-Cycle Engine Oils:
Premium
Hornelite@
32:l
Engine Oil,
in ratio of one
part oil to 32 parts gasoline
(1/4 pint per U.S. gallon
of gasoline or
3% oil).
Hornelite@
16:l
Engine Oil
in ratio of one part oil to
16 parts gasoline
(1/2 pint per U.S. gallon of gaso-
line or
6% oil).
If neither of these
Hornelite@ Oils is available, use any engine oil designated for 2-cycle air-cooled engines in ratio of
16:l only, as stated above. For best performance, however, use Homelite Oils in Homelitee Chain Saws.
b) Acceptable Gasoline Products:
We recommend that clean, fresh regular grade automotive gasoline, either leaded or unleaded, be used in
Homelite engines. Automotive "High Test" premium* grade can be used when regular gasoline is not available.
3. Unacceptable Fuel Ingredients: a) Any fuel made from untreated gasoline on hand for
more than three months should not be used. How­ever, treating fresh gasoline fuel supplies with STA-BILe, an anti-oxidant type fuel stabilizer, can extend the life of fuel beyond this three month limit. Use according to directions on the STA-BIL can. STA-BIL is a product of Knox Laboratories, Chicago, Illinois 60616.
b) Avoid use of multi-grade oil products such as
10W-30, or any other oils formulated for 4-cycle or water cooled engines.
c) Gasohol. (Collects water, corrodes tank and the
engine.)
4.
How to Mix Fuel Thoroughly: You can get a uniform fuel mixture only by mixing the oil thoroughly with the gasoline. Measure out the re­quired amounts of gasoline and oil accurately. Pour
about half of the gasoline into the mixing can (never
directly into the saw tank). Pour in the entire measure of oil. Agitate contents briskly by shaking or by stirring
with a clean paddle. Pour in the remainder of the gaso-
line. Now agitate until sure of a uniform mixture.
*Leaded
premium high-test may shorten spark plug
life.
SECTION 2-HOW TO START, STOP AND HOLD
THE SAW CORRECTLY
PROPER GRIP AND HOLD ON SAW
DURING OPERATION
1. Wear non-slip glovesfor maximum gripand protection. Using the proper grip, hold onto the saw firmly with both hands when the engine is running.
2. Always hold the saw with your left hand on the front handlebar, and your right hand on the throttle control handle. The grip maintained on the handlebar with your left hand is of utmost importance. The only grip with which you can maintain control of the saw in the event it should jerk or kick back toward you is the one (illustrated) where you wrap you fingers around the handlebar, keeping the handlebar diameter in the web­bing between your index finger and thumb.
3. Your
right
hand wraps naturally around the throttle control handle in the correct manner described in Step
2.
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4.
During starting, hold the saw down firmly on a level surface with the bar and chain in the clear. Never strad­dle the guide bar or lean across the saw. As illustrated,
put your left knee snugly against the engine just be­hind the front handlebar to help steady the saw. Grip
the throttle control handle and depress the trigger with
your left hand. Pull the starter rope with your right hand.
5.
Always keep your weight well balanced on both feet
when cutting. Since you will be exerting moderate pressure to cut, guard against loss of balance by being ready to hold up on the saw as it cuts through the ma­terial. However, throttle up to full speed before letting the chain contact the wood. AND do not throttle down before the cut has been completed. Never cut at part throttle, because the clutch is not fully engaged at in­termediate speeds and will slip and burn. As soon as the cutting load is removed, you should release the throttle trigger to slow the engine back to idle speed. Letting an unloaded engine race is harmful to it.
STARTING AND STOPPING
1.
Flip the ignition to the "RUN" position.
2.
Push the choke lever all the way up (for a richer mix­ture required for a cold engine).
FULL CHOKE
HALF CHOKE
OPEN CHOKE
3. Hold the saw down and open the throttle per previous instructions beginning on page 6.
4.
Pull the starter rope out a short way until you feel the starter engage. Then pull rope briskly to give a fast cranking spin. (Do not pull rope to the very end or you
may damage the starter.) Hold onto the grip during rewinding so the rope will not snap back and become
frayed.
5.
Crank until the engine fires. Normally, an engine that
has not been run for some time requires three to five pulls just to prime with fuel before it can fire. On the other hand, a recently run engine will usually start up on the first or second pull. However,
in
cold weather,
initial priming will take more pulls because an ex-
tremely rich mixture is needed.
6. A cold engine will often fire (go pop
...p op ...p op) and
then stop. This is enough to warm it so that you should
push the choke lever halfway down before continuing
to crank.
7.
When the enine starts, keep it running at half-choke
to warm it up, but flip the choke lever all the way down
before it gets so much fuel that it stalls out. Note: Any engine which
hasfired several timesat fullchoke
will start at half choke.
8.
Now you are ready to operate. Grasp the throttle han­dle with your right hand so that you can use one finger on the trigger to hold the throttle open. Grasp the front handlebar with your left hand. (Use correct grip-see page 6.) Let the engine idle. Pick up the saw and position yourself for cutting.
9.
Flip the switch to "STOP" position to stop the engine.
OPERATOR'S
BODY
ENTIRELY TO
LEFT OF
CHAIN
LINE
HARD HAT
EYE PROTECTION
TRIM, PROTECTIVE ELBOW AS
STRAIGHT
AS POSSIBLE
PROTECTIVE,
NON-SLIP
HANDLEBAR
NO PANTS CUFFS TO
UNDERBRUSH
10. To restart a warm engine (or any engine which has fired afewtimes)
crankat half choke.Aftershort shut­downs, the engine may be warm enough to be re­started with out choking and with the throttle control at idle setting.
11. Choking a warm engine may be necessary after an en­gine has been in the hot sun or in a car trunk, or has
been shut down for five to ten minutesafter being run. These things cause vapor to form in the carburetor. it can be cleaned out and the saw started as follows:
Crank alternately at full
chokeand half choke until the
engine fires. Then run at half choke when engine
starts. Allow no more than 30 seconds before opening
the choke fully. If required, repeat above sequence
until engine clears itself and runs properly.
IMPORTANT
When you are through using the saw, relieve tank pres­sures by loosening the
CHAIN OIL
and
FUEL
MIX
caps.
Then retighten the caps. For extended periods of
non­use, prepare the saw for storage as recommended in Section
6.
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SECTION 3-KICKBACK, PUSH AND PULL
and how to control these reaction forces.
WARNING
Also read the instructions
(#17067)
which came with the SAFE*T.TIP@: We strongly urge your protecting yourself
against chain saw kickback by using the
SAFE*T.TIP@. But remember, that for the few types of cuts where a SAFE*T*TIP cannot be used, you should use the tech­niques described in this Owner's Manual.
'Pat.
Pending
WHAT IS CHAIN SAW KICKBACK?
In the operation of a chain saw, engine torque is trans-
ferred
tothechain.Thisenergy is then used tocut wood. If the chain suddenly hits a solid object (or takes too largea cut) and is stopped for an instant, the engine torque is transferred to the guide bar and chain saw as a rotation around the center of mass. The direction of the reaction force depends on where the contact is made along the guide bar. If made at the upper
90"
quadrant of the bar nose, the reaction will be in an upward arc toward the op­erator. This arcing movement of the saw blade is called kickback. Kickback is the most dangerous of the reactions which can cause loss of control. When properly installed, the
SAFE.TmTIP@ prevents kickback. But it is not a gen-
eral insurance against "accidents" with a chain saw.
MOST DANGEROUS KICKBACK ZONE
WITH SOLID
SAFE.T*TIP PREVENTS CO SOLID OBJECTS, PREVENT BACK WHEN PROPERLY INSTALLED
SOLID OBJECTS
Kickback Reaction Zones
SOLID
OBJECT
I
THE SAFE*T*TIP DOES NOT PREVENT OR REDUCE PUSH AND PULL REACTION.
I
Push and Pull Reactions.
I
HEN INCORRECTLY WHEN NOSE STRIKES IF NOSE TTOM OF SAW CUT
STARTING TO BORE
ANY SOLID OBJECT
WHEN REINSERTED INTO PREVIOUS CUT
1
Situations Known to Cause Saw to Kick Back Towards Operator
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