Hogtunes REV 200RG Kit-RM Installation Manual

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InstructionDisclaimer

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Dennis Kirk provides instructions to help our customers better understand how to install the
products we sell. The instructions are exact copies of what the manufacturer includes with the
product being sold.

That means the quality and accuracy of the instructions is solely dependent on what the
manufacturer produces. We do our best to make the text legible and the pictures viewable.
However, the end result depends largely on the quality of instructions the manufacturer
provides.

Therefore, you will find that some instructions are not of the highest quality. Sometimes text is
hard to read and pictures are not easy to see. At times you will find the overall look of the
instructions to be less than professional. However, we feel it is better to provide what we have
rather than provide nothing at all.

To the best of our knowledge the instructions and application information contained in the
instructions is accurate. However, Dennis Kirk assumes no liability related to any errors that
may be contained in the copy of the manufacturer’s instructions we provide. Buyers are solely
responsible to insure that product use is consistent with their application.

If you have any questions please contact us at [e-mail]
800-969-7501 so we can further assist you regarding additional product information or any other
business related questions.

Thank you for doing business with Dennis Kirk.

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REV 200RG Kit-RM

REV 200RG Kit-RM

High Performance Front Speaker Kit with 200 Watt Amplifier

High Performance Front Speaker Kit with 200 Watt Amplifier

For Use on 1998-2013 Ultra ClassiCs and tri-Glides

For Use on rUshmore road Glide models

installation Manual

installation Manual

Thank you for choosing the Hogtunes REV 200RG KIT-RM for Rushmore

platform Road Glide models. Since positive word of mouth is the best way to

grow our business, we want your system to work as well as it was designed

to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help.

The installation will be done in 2 major steps.

Step 1: Changing out the front speakers

Step 2: Installation of the amplifier

Please follow the installation instructions as provided on the following pages.

A video version of this manual is available at

www.hogtunes.com If you still need

assistance, please consider a professional

installation by your motorcycle dealer.

Hogtunes Contact Information

Email: [e-mail]

Tel: [phone]

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362F-RM FRont SpeakeR

InStallatIon InStRuctIonS

Step #1: Remove the seat and both wires (+ and -) from the battery. Each factory

speaker grill will be removed from the inner fairing by prying up on them.
In most cases you can pry these off with your fingers, but if you must use
a tool, please use something with a 90° end being extra careful not to
scratch your inner fairing.

Step #2: Remove the outer fairing from the bike and then the headlamp assembly.

Refer to a service manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a
towel on the front fender can help prevent scratches or “dings” from
dropped tools or fasteners etc. Expletives will also be kept to a minimum.

Step #3: Undo the 4 screws that hold the factory speaker to the cabinet.

Carefully take off each speaker wire by disconnecting one at a time.
Take a Hogtunes speaker and attach the factory speaker wires noting
they will only go on one way. The #1 reason for tech related calls is loose
wires at the speaker which is why we designed the self-locking clips on
the speaker frame. You will need to “maneuver” the new speaker into
place so it will go past grill opening but it will go in without force.

In order to make the speaker install properly, the speaker
wire tabs must be oriented so they are closest to the top
of the inner fairing (12 o’clock position). Reinstall the factory

screws to secure the speakers in place making sure the speaker is flush
to the mounting plane.

Step #4: On the back of each stock speaker grill, you will see a rubber gasket and

2 white clips. These gaskets and clips will be removed from the factory
grills and re-installed on the Hogtunes grills. Once the gaskets and clips
are installed onto the new grills, simply press the new grills back onto
your inner fairing.

The supplied Hogtunes grills are designed so the metal mesh

and grill frame are easily separated for custom finishing.

The metal mesh is thick enough so it should not warp during

processing such as polishing or powder coating.

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ReV 200-RM aMplIFIeR

InStallatIon InStRuctIonS

e

c

D

a

B

Figure 1.1

Before proceeding, please locate the points in the fairing identified by the letters
in Figure 1.1.
A= mounting points for Headlight assembly
B= Wire passage from fairing to bike
C= Brake side speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
D= Clutch Side Speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
E= Factory 2 pin plug for amplifiers (orange) remote turn on lead

Step #1: Locate the supplied power harness and plug it into the matching

pigtail on the side of the amplifier.

Step #2: Locate the supplied input harness and plug it into the “audio input”

socket on the side of the amp. Please note: Once the input harness is
plugged into the amp, you will see 2 two pin plugs and 1 four pin plug.
The 2 two pin plugs are used but the 4 pin is not. The 4 pin plug is
there for future expansion of your system. Do not plug this into anything
on your bike! If you do, you will be calling us for tech support and will
have to pull your fairing back off to unplug it!

Step #3: Locate the harness with brown/black and blue/black wires and plug it

into 4pin BLACK plug on the pigtail coming out of the amplifier.

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Locate the supplied front output harness and plug it into the “amplified
output” plug on the end of the 4 wires coming out of the amp.

Step #4: You will see a 3 position switch on the side of the amplifier. For all

typical installs, this should be in the “+3” position. The switch allows
you to “tune” the amp in relation to other speakers or amps on the
bikes if you add them.

Step #5: MOUNTING THE AMPLIFIER. The holes on the front of the amplifier

plate will mate to the holes that hold the factory headlight assembly to
the bike. These are the holes shown as “A” in figure 1.1. Once you
have the amp/plate in place, use the factory bolts to temporarily
hold the amp/plate in place. No one wants the amplifier to fall on
your fender by accident!

Step #6: WIRING THE AMPLIFIER. As shown by “C” in Figure 1.1, on the brake

side of the bike, you will see a 2 pin connector with pink/pink with
black stripe wires going through it. The plug is close to where the wires
enter the brake side speaker cabinet. Separate the connector so you
now have 2 plugs. From the amp, take the plug with blue/black wires
and plug it into the mating plug you just separated noting it will only go
in one way. Also from the amp, take the plug with green/black wires
and plug it into the mating plug you just separated noting it will only
go in one way.

Step #7: As shown by “D” in Figure 1.1, on the clutch side of the bike, you will

see a 2 pin connector with pink/pink with black stripe wires going
through it. The plug is close to where the wires enter the clutch side
speaker cabinet. Separate the connector so you now have 2 plugs.
From the amp, take the plug with brown/black wires and plug it into the
mating plug you just separated noting it will only go in one way. Also
from the amp, take the plug with yellow/black wires and plug it into the
mating plug you just separated noting it will only go in one way.

Step #8: In the area of “E” in Figure 1.1, there is a factory 2 pin plug with

purple/blue stripe and a black wires. You may have to pull back the
sheathing to properly identify this plug. From the factory, the plug your
looking for has a empty connector in it that will need to be removed.
Once removed, the orange wire on the amp’s power harness will plug
into this factory plug. The orange wire is the amps “turn on” lead and
tells the amp to turn on or off with ignition on/off. The amp will not
turn on if this wire is not installed to the factory plug (or any other
B+ switched power source).

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RoutIng the poweR haRneSS

The balance of the power harness will exit the inner fairing and go towards the
frame of the bike through the “wire passage from fairing to bike” as shown by
“B” in Figure 1.1.

Just in front of the tank, you will see a structure that attaches the fairing to the
frame of the bike. The power harness will pass through this structure and exit
through the rectangular opening where the factory harness also exits the structure
on the BRAKE side of the bike. The wire harness can go under the tank towards
the battery if you want, or, you can run the power harness up an over the tank, but
under the tank’s chrome console.

Once the red and black power wires are in the vicinity of the battery, you can
attach the amplifiers wires to the battery. The factory power and ground wires are
also re-attached at this time. When attaching wires to the battery, it is always
a good practice to attach the power wire (RED) first. When the last connector is
attached, some minor sparking is normal, as this is a function of the capacitors in
the amplifier charging up.

IMPORTANT: With all wires secured, turn the front

wheel to each extreme side making sure that any wires

cannot bind or impede the steering of the motorcycle.

Failure to do so can cause an accident resulting

in serious injury or death!

Turn the stereo on and, at low volume, test to make sure the speakers are working.
Now is a good time to “clean up” and secure the wires using the supplied zip ties.

5

Once you are satisfied the system is working, and you have the wires cleaned
up and zip tied, its time to start putting the bike back together. You will need to
remove the bolts that are temporarily holding the amplifier/plate in place.
These bolts will now be re-installed so that the bolt goes through the headlight
assembly first, then the amplifiers plate, then into the threaded plate on the bike.
Once you have the headlight assembly and amplifier in place and you are
satisfied everything is secure, re-install the bikes outer fairing.

adjusting Your sYsteM-Please read!

In order to make your new system perform as good as it was designed,
please take a minute to understand and follow these tips:

1) Set your “Automatic Volume Control” (AVC) to 3 bars. After extensive
on-road testing, we found that this AVC position works and sounds best.
Your new amplifier has been specifically set-up for this radio setting.

2) Your Hogtunes system is designed specifically for a motorcycle at speed.
Exhaust noise and wind noise have been taken into careful consideration
in how your system performs. How your new system sounds in a driveway
or garage is radically different from how it will sound at highway speeds.
Although your system was set-up with a factory radio, with its bass and
treble controls in the middle position, if you feel the need to make
adjustments please do so (carefully) at your normal cruising speed.

technical sPecifications

Hogtunes REV 200RG Kit-RM

Amp’s RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 100 Watts x 2 Channels

Speakers: 125 Watts RMS 200 Peak
Frequency Response: 40hz - 25khz
Fuse at Amp: 15 amp

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