HOGTUNES
Audio Solutions For The Great American Cruiser
Designed and Engineered in Canada For
FLSK 225-AA
Installation Manual
Adds 5.25” Speakers Into HD Fairing
Lower Glove Boxes on 1998-2013 Bikes
Version 1.1
www.hogtunes.com
Harley-Davidson, Electra Glide, Road Glide, Street Glide, Ultra Classic, Tri Glide, CVO, and Screamin’ Eagle ar e
Trademarks, and/or Registered Trademarks of Harley -Davidson, Inc., Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA, and if Used
or Implied are for Reference Only. There is No Affiliation Between Harley -Davidson, Inc., and Hogtunes Inc.
Any audio system can be a distraction to the rider
and/or passenger. Please use caution when
playing your stereo, especially in traffic.
The REV 225-AA Amplifier In This Kit
Features The Hogtunes Proprietary Circuit
“Reduced EMI Technology” For Superior FM
Reception From A “Class D” Amplifier
Thank-you for choosing the Hogtunes FLSK 225-AA Fairing Lower Speaker Kit with
Amplifier! Since positive word of mouth is the best way to grow our business, we
want your new system to work as well as it was designed to. If you have any
questions or concerns, we are here to help. Email tech@hogtunes.com, or call us
during regular business hours (EST) at (705)-719-6361. If you still need help, please
consider a professional installation by your motorcycle dealer.
Please read these important points before getting started!
* In its most common configuration, the supplied amplifier will power the lower
speakers, and your radios built in amplifier will power the front speakers which
is how this manual is written. If you are installing this kit on a bike with an
existing amp, CVO® Ultra Classic, or CVO® Road Glide Ultra, please email
tech@hogtunes.com for more Information. There are too many ways to make
this kit work and have them all in this manual, so we will send install instructions
specific to what you are doing.
* FLSK 225-AA works on 1998-2013 bikes with a factory radio and Ultra Classic style
fairing lowers. This kit WILL NOT work if you have a 1998-2009 Road Glide
with the FLTR Road Glide specific lowers offered in those years.
* This kit cannot be used on 2011-2013 CVO® Street Glide or Road Glide Models that
came with factory amplifiers.
* For 1998-2013 Street Glide/EG Classic/Ultra Models, if you have something on top
of the radio already, and the amp in this kit will not fit, you can use Hogtunes
2CHSP (Drag Specialties Part # 4405-0234) mounting plate to relocate the amp
between the radio and brake side speaker.
* For ALL Road Glide Models with ULTRA style lowers, Hogtunes RG Adaptor kit
(Drag Specialties Part # 4405-0096) is required to install the amplifier properly!
Getting Started:
Step #1: Remove the seat, and both wires (+ and -) from the battery.
Step #2: Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly. Refer to a service manual if
you need help with this. Note: A towel on the front fender can help prevent
scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or fasteners etc.
Step #3: On Street Glide/Ultra Models, the amplifier gets mounted to the top of
the factory radio using the supplied “hook and loop” adhesive, and must sit so you
can read the text on top of the amplifier as shown in Diagram 1.1 .The amp needs to
mount as far back on the radio as possible so the fairing can go back on. The
minimum distance from the back of the radio to the most forward edge of the
amplifier is 5/8” (15mm). On pre-2006 model bikes, it is a tight fit, but will go. 2006
and newer Ultras have the CB Radio mounted on top of the radio. The hook and
loop adhesive is strong enough to have half the amp sitting on top of the CB radio
as shown in Diagram 1.2. Model 2006 and newer non-Ultras have a “bump” on top
of the radio that runs down the center of the radio.
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Technical Specifications:
Hogtunes REV 225-AA Amplifier
RMS Power at 2 Ohms:................112.5 watts x 2
Freq. Response:............................30hz-25khz
Fuse at Amp:.................................15 amp
Hogtunes 352F-AA Front Speakers
Power Handling: ................................100 RMS-150 Peak
Frequency Response: ........................55hz-25Khz
Sensitivity: .........................................92 db 1watt/1meter
Nominal Impedance: .........................2.0 Ohms
Cool Factor:........................................EXTREME
Warranty Information:
Please Record Your Amplifier Serial # Here:______________________________
Hogtunes speakers are warranted for a period of 20 years. The REV 225-AA
Amplifier is warranted for 3 years from original purchase date. Proof of
purchase is required for all warranty claims. The warranty applies to the
original retail customer and is not transferable. Please contact Hogtunes for
all warranty claims. Products found to be defective during the warranty
period will be repaired or replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent)
at Hogtunes sole discretion. Hogtunes complete warranty policy is available
on our website at www.hogtunes.com/warranty.html.
What Is Not Covered:
1) Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of Hogtunes products.
2) Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes.
3) Subsequent damage to any other components.
4) Any product purchased from a non-authorized Hogtunes dealer.
5) Damage to Hogtunes products due to an accident or collision.
6) Hogtunes Amplifiers with broken or removed “warranty void” stickers.
7) Damage due to water from custom installations.
8) Damage from incorrect installation, improper use, abuse or modifications.
9) Damage to inbound product due to improper packing.
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IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please fill out the form
in the Warranty section of our website. Valid claims will have an
Return Authorization Number (RA#) generated which MUST
be visible on the outer box when it arrives to our offices.
Goods Arriving Without an RA# will be refused!
Step#5: Locate the silver “posts” with the hex key opening and put silver lock
washers and washers on them. Take a 352F-AA speaker and attach the speaker
wires, and then place into opening in adaptor. Start each thread into the brass
inserts in the angled speaker holder BY HAND! After all the threads are
started, use supplied hex key to tighten speaker into place. Press the grill into
place by lining up the holes on the inside of the grills on to the silver posts.
Please make sure all 4 rubber “sockets” on the back side of the grills line up
with all 4 silver posts! Grills may come of while riding if all 4 posts/sockets are
not together!
Step#6: Once everything is complete in both lowers, use the supplied wire ties
to secure the exposed speaker wires to the crash bar. Moving back into the
fairing, use supplied wire ties to secure the amplifier harnesses to the bike.
Step#7: Turn the stereo on, and test to make sure all 4 front speakers are
working. The front speakers will turn on immediately, and the fairing lower
speakers will turn on after the amplifier delay of about 2 seconds. On the
clutch side of the amplifier is the amp level. Adjusting the amp level sets the
“balance” between front and fairing lower speakers. It is recommended that
you start with the level at “0” and turn up (+3)or down (-3) if desired. Re-install
the seat making sure the amplifiers “+” and “-” connectors are positioned in
such away so they will not bend or break when the riders weight is on the
seat. Note: Sound quality is best with the fairing mounted and secured on the
bike.
Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel to each
extreme side making sure any wiring is not impeding
the steering of the motorcycle. Failure to do so can
result in serious injury or death!
Re-install the fairing and the new addition to your bike is ready to enjoy!
When washing your bike, water may collect on speakers in lowers. Gently
wipe of with a soft cloth before playing.
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Cut the hook and loop adhesive in half and apply on either side of the bump.
The amplifier will then mount flush. Note: Most adhesives work best at room
temperature or higher.
Step #4: Locate the main power harness and plug it into the matching
connector on the amplifier. Locate the 8 pin harness and plug it into “Audio
Input” on the side of the amp. Locate the 4 wire harness with white/black, and
red/black wires and plug it into the 4 pin blue plug on the input harness. Locate
the 4 pin “lower harness” and plug it into the 4 pin black “amplified out” plug.
Step #5: On the audio input harness, locate the wire with the yellow heat
shrink on one end. Unplug the factory speaker wires on the clutch side of the
bike and plug the male connectors near the yellow heat shrink into those.
They will only go in one way. Also on the audio input harness, locate the
wire with the green heat shrink on one end. Unplug the factory speaker wires
on the brake side of the bike and plug the male connectors near the green heat
shrink in to those.
Step #6: Locate the white/black wires on the harness you plugged into the
input harness and attach those wires directly to the clutch side fairing speaker.
On that same harness, take the red/black wires, and attach them directly to
the brake side fairing speaker.
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Note: All grill cloth will fade in time. We have had great success painting
these grills using Duplicolor® branded Fabric and Vinyl paint which can
be found at virtually any auto parts store. Many riders will do all the
bikes grills at the same time to freshen the entire bikes appearance.
Fig 1.1 Street Glide/EG Classic with
No CB Module present
Fig 1.2 Ultra Classic with amp on
top of factory CB Module
Fairing Lower Speaker Kit Installation
Step #1: Remove access covers from the glove boxes. Using a cutting tool such
as side cutters, the 4 male parts each access panel snaps into will be cut and
removed. Cutting them from inside the glove box will eliminate marks on the
front of the glove box. When cut, parts may “fly” so please be careful and
wear eye protection! On non vented lowers (up to and including 2004 models),
the plastic trim bezel the 4 male plugs sit “in” must also be removed.
Vented Lowers (2005-2013) Complete Steps 2 and 3
Non Vented Lowers (Up to 2004) Move To Step 3a
Step #2: Looking inside the glove box, locate the 2 nuts at the back of the glove
boxes, and remove. This will release the painted lower fairing “cap” so be
careful it doesn't fall and get scratched!! Remove and put aside.
Step #3: Looking from the front side of lower, locate the flat plane approx. 1”
towards the motor, directly across from the lower bolt hole for the fairing cap
just removed. Drill a 1/8”(3mm) pilot hole in the center of this plane, then a
final 5/16”(8mm) hole-you will go through 2 layers. If working on Clutch Side,
pass speaker wire marked “Clutch side” into glove box, large connector first.
The sticker can be removed to fit through the hole if needed. Pull up any slack
into the glove box so that wire will go along crash bar, making sure to keep
quick release plugs in the center. Using the supplied black “gummy” material,
seal the hole around the wire inside the glove box. Move to Step #4.
Step #3a: Remove the “cap” on the front of the fairing lower held on with
Phillips screws. Directly under the bottom of the clamp that holds the fairing
lower to the crash bar is a flat plane. Drill a 1/8”(3mm) pilot hole in the center
of this plane, then a final 5/16” (8mm) hole-you will go through 2 layers. If
working on the Clutch Side, insert the speaker wire marked “Clutch side”,
large connector first. The sticker can be removed to fit through the hole if
needed. Take up any slack into the glove box so that wire will go along crash
bar, making sure to keep quick release plugs in the center. Using the supplied
black “gummy” material, seal the hole around the wire inside the glove box.
Step #4: Locate the angled speaker holder for the side of the bike your working on and attach it to the glove box opening using the black hardware in the
kit, through the holes made when male plugs were cut. On non-vented lowers,
3 of the 4 holes will line up and a 3/16” hole must be drilled through the
adaptor into the lower to create the 4th hole. Washers are used INSIDE the
glove box only for this step. Once the angled speaker holder is secured, reinstall the painted lower fairing cap.
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Step #7: The red and black power wires, and the wires marked “Clutch Side”
and “Brake Side” of the lower speaker wire harness will pass under the inner
fairing where the throttle and idle and/or bikes main wire harness pass
through on the brake side of the bike. Let the Clutch Side and Brake Side wires
hang on the front side of the crash bar for now. The red and black power wires
are designed to be routed under the gas tank and across the motor mount on
the brake side of the bike, and come out just behind the gas tank. You may
need to undo the back bolt of the gas tank and pivot the tank up to allow the
harness to pass through at the back of the gas tank. Be sure to re-install this
bolt and torque to factory specs! When correctly installed, the power and
ground wires are the right length to connect onto the battery. NOTE: on 2007
and newer bikes it is much easier to run power and ground wires up and over
the gas tank, but under the chrome gas tank console.
Step #8: Attach the red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal, and the black
wire to the negative (-) battery terminal. The factory battery wires are also
re-installed at this point. Secure the amplifiers power harness to the bikes
factory harness’ along the frame and behind the tank using supplied zip ties.
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Diagram 1.4 Stock Harness and Power Harness Passing From Fairing
To Under Tank. Note: Harness will pass over front gas tank mount/
bolt. The rings on the power harness can easily scratch paint so
PLEASE be careful!
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